Chapter 2 Fibers and Their Properties

Natural Fibers
2 main categories
Cellulosic plants
Protein - animals
Other categories such as
Mineral - asbestos
Manufactured Fibers
Manufactured Cellulosic
Created from cellulose
Rayon and Acetate
Synthetics
Synthesized chemically, often from petroleum
Nylon (DuPont)
Fiber Properties
Determine how fiber used
Rayon = weak fiber
Nylon = strong fiber
Refer to Box 2.2 Fiber Properties & Definitions
See Table 2.1 Properties of Major Textile Fibers
Physical Properties
These are seen with naked eye or under microscope
Color
Natural fibers vary in shade from white to black
Manufactured - white
Physical Properties
Shape
Length
Cross section
Contour
Crimp
Covering Power
Hand / Texture
Luster
Staple & Filament Fibers
Different characteristics when made into
yarn or fabric
Length: from 0 18
Softer
Less luster
Filament fibers
Filament: long 18 +
Smoother than staple
More Lustrous
May be crimped
Cross Section and Surface Contour
Cross Section - See Fig. 2-3 on p. 18
appearance across fibers diameter
The cross section affects other properties
i.e. round reflects less light
Surface Contour
Longitudinal appearance direct result of
cross section
Striations
Photomicrograph of wool fibers
(cross section)
Photomicrograph of
viscose rayon fibers
Diameter
Width of the cross section
Measured differently in natural fibers than
manufactured fibers
Manufactured fibers - Denier system or the
International System (SI)
Natural fibers measured in microns
Crimp
Waves or bumps of a fiber
Occurs naturally in wool
Can be added to manufactured fibers to
emulate a natural fiber
Added during the texturing phase
Covering Power
Ability to hide what is underneath
Refer to Fig. 2 4 on p. 19
Fibers with texture or crimp are better than
smooth fibers
Hand or Texture
Refers to the Feel of the Fiber
All shape characteristics effect the hand
Filament smoother than staple
Fine diameter softer, less stiff than thick fibers
Textured or crimped feel fluffier
Luster
Amount of light reflected off a fiber
Silk high luster
Usually manufactured fibers are high luster
see Fig. 2-6 on p. 20
Sometimes delustered
Mechanical Properties
Abrasion resistance
Ability of a fiber to withstand the effects of
rubbing or friction
major factor in the durability of a fiber
Pilling the formation of little balls of loose
fibers on the surface of a fabric results from
abrasion
Mechanical Properties
Dimensional Stability
Ability of a fiber to maintain its original shape,
neither shrinking nor stretching
Elastic recovery
Ability of a fiber to return to its original
length after it is stretched.
Creep recovery
A fiber that will slowly recover its original
length after being stretched.
Mechanical Properties
Elongation
The lengthening or stretching of a fiber
refers only to the fact that the fiber can be
lengthened.
Flexibility
Fibers that can bend or fold easily
Drape how a fabric hangs in graceful folds
Mechanical Properties cont
Resiliency or wrinkle recovery
The ability of a fiber to return to its original
shape after being bent or folded
Compressional resiliency or loft
The ability of a fiber to return to its original
thickness after it has been crushed
Mechanical Properties cont
Specific gravity
Density
Compares the mass of a fiber to an equal
volume of water
Tenacity
Fiber strength
Important to wear life of the textile product
Chemical Properties
Absorbency
Moisture regain
Its ability to take in moisture
Hydrophilic fibers
philic = likes
Can absorbs moisture are comfortable
Hydrophobic fibers
Phobic = dislikes
Do not absorb moisture readily
Chemical Properties
Hygroscopic fibers
Can absorb moisture without feeling wet
Ex. Animal hairs
Wicking
A fibers ability to carry moisture along its
surface
Ex. acrylic
Chemical Properties cont
Electrical Conductivity
Fibers that do NOT conduct electricity create
static electricity
Epitropic fibers
Synthetic fibers that have small particles of
carbon embedded in their surface.
These particles conduct electricity.
Chemical Properties cont
Chemical Reactivity
How it reacts to chemicals such as dyes, pigments,
soaps, detergents and bleaches
Acids
Damages natural cellulosics.
Does not harm protein fibers.
Bases or alkalis
Do not harm cellulosic (cotton).
Will damage protein fibers.
Chemical Properties cont
Oxidizing agents
Ex. Bleach
Some fibers are damaged by this
Safe for polyester, nylon, and cotton (controlled)
Will damage protein fibers
Solvents
Used in dry cleaning
Organic solvents used to remove oily stains and
dirt
Ex. Acetone damages acetate and triacetate
Chemical Properties cont
Effects of Heat
Thermoplastic
Most synthetics are thermoplastic
They soften or melt when exposed to heat
Cellulosic / Protein may scorch or burn when
exposed to high heat
Heat Setting
Applying heat and pressure in a controlled maner
to permanently change the shape / improve the
dimensional stability of thermoplastic fibers.
Heat set garments of Issey Miyake
Chemical Properties cont
Flammability
Fireproof Unaffected by fire
Flame resistant will ignite if placed in
open flame but will not continue to burn after
the flame is removed
Flammable easy to ignite and will
continue to burn
Chemical Properties cont
Flammability
Noncombustible will not burn but can
meilt and decompose at a high temperature
Self-extinguishing will stop burning
when the flame is removed
Thermally stable will not readily burn
or shrink when exposed to a flame.
Environmental Properties
Sensitivity to:
Climate
May loose strength
Become
Microorganisms
Mold and mildew can damage textiles
Insects
Moths, carpet beetles, silver fish attach fibers