Q1

10

10 7
U z

z
1

10 7
U10 18 17.5 m / s
12
Wind stress factor, U

17.54

0 . 71 U 101 .23

24.06

U A 0 . 71 (15 . 5 ) 1 .23 24 m / s
from S-M-B diagram,

(i)

UA = 24 m/s, duration = 8 hr, fetch length = 100 km

then Hs = 3.8 m and T = 8.4 s fetch limited

(ii)

UA = 24 m/s, duration = 8 hr, fetch length = 200 km

then Hs = 4.5 m and T = 9.3 s duration limited

At fully arise sea condition,

gH mo
U
gT p
UA

2
A

Hm0 = 24*24*2.433*0.1/9.81 =

14.36

Tp = 8.134*24/9.81 =

19.95

2.433x10 1

8.134

gt
7.15 x10 4
UA

t=24*7.15*104/9.81 =

175374.8402 48.72 hr

18

12

U10
UA
9.81 17.537 24.062 14.359

Q2

(2) L (m)
(1) T (s)

train1

train2

(2) L (m)

(3) C (m/s) (3) C (m/s)

wave table

tanh(kh)

tanh(kh)

wave table

T(s)

H0(m)

h(m)

L0=gT2/2 (m)

h/L0

h/L

L (m)

L=L0*tanh(kh)
(m)

C0=gT/2 (m/s)

C=C0*L/L0
(m/s)

C=(gh)
(m/s)

C=C0*tanh(kh)
(m/s)

tanh(2*h/L) or
tanh(kh)

tanh(kh)=L/L0

14

10

305.76

0.033

0.07507

133.21

134.4

21.85

9.5

9.9

9.6

0.4395

0.4357

14

305.76

0.016

0.05132

97.43

95.3

21.84

7.0

7.0

6.8

0.3117

0.3186

10

99.84

0.100

0.141

70.92

70.8

12.48

8.9

9.9

8.9

0.7093

0.7104

99.84

0.050

0.09416

53.10

53.0

12.48

6.6

7.0

6.6

0.531

0.5319

wave power
wave table

H/H0

wave table

ms-2

E =1/8*(gH2)

(Jm-2)

pressure

(4) P (Wm-1)

(5) Sxx (Jm-2)

P=ECn

Sxx=E(2n-0.5) (Jm-

(Wm-1)

wave table

= H/2

(6) p (N/m2)
p=g(Kz-Z)
(N/m2)

(kPa)

9.81

3.14

1.104

3.31

11312

0.9329

100456

15450

1.5

0.8982

114099.9383

g/2

1.56

1.288

3.86

11312

0.967

76125

16222

1.5

0.9502

64607.99783

64.61

0.9327

1.87

5028

0.8103

36116

5634

1.0

0.7049

107640.4457

107.64

1.023

2.05

5028

0.8999

30031

6535

1.0

0.8473

58796.06332

58.80

k=2/L

(3) C (m/s)

40000
4.362822

1025

0.9118

kgm-3

10

101340.2
74466.6
36062.3
29982.4

t) = H cos (kx t)
(x,
2
max occures at (0,0) = H/2

114.10

Q3
C = gT/2 = 1.56 T

in deep water
T = 15

C(15) = 23.4

T= 7

C(7) = 10.92

D = distance between the storm and the beach

t = time for 15s wave to arrive to the beach
C (15)= D/t

D=23.4*t

C(7) = D/(t+12*3600)
10.92 = 23.4t/(t+12*3600)
10.92 t+10.92 *12 *3600 = 23.4t
t=
D=
D=

37800 s
884520 m
884.52 km

t15=D/23.4
t7=D/10.92
t7-t15 = D(1/10.92-1/23.4)
12*3600 = D(0.09157-0.04273)
D = 43200/0.0488 = 885.24 km
D = 885.24 km

Q4
B
A

cosh k (z + h)
A = H
2
sinh kh
sinh k (z + h)
B = H
2
sinh kh

((1))

((2))

A=0.1 m
B = 0.05 m
h=1m
z= -0.5 m
B = tanh k (z + h)
A

9.81

3.14

0.05/0.1 = tanh k(-0.5+1)

k =(1/0.5) *tanh-1(0.5)
k = 2 * 0.5493
k = 1.098

from (1)

0.1 = (H/2)*cosh(0.5*1.098)/sinh(1*1.098)
H= 0.1*2*sinh(1*1.098)/cosh(0.5*1.098)
H= 0.1*2*1.33548/1.1548
H= 0.23 m

k = 2/L

L = 2/k

L = 2*3.14/1.098

L = 5.722 m

2 = gk t anhkh.
(2/T)2 = gk*tanh(kh)
T = 2/sqrt(gk*tanh(k*0.5))=
from wave table, at tanh (kh) = 0.5,

2.7092 s
h/L0 =

T = 2.709 s
0.044
h = 0.5
L0 = 0.5/0.044 =

11.36

T =sqrt( 11.36/1.56) =

2.70
T = 2.70 s

1.56 T2

Q5
at sea bed, PA =
PB =
T= 8

20.7 kPa
25.6 kPa

L0 = 99.84

z@B= -h+10

considering only the dynamic pressure

p g

10 m
h

cosh k z h
cosh kh
A

coshk h h
coshkh

p A g

cosh
k h 10 h
cosh
kh

p B g

p A g

pB g

z@A= -h

1
cosh kh

((1))

cosh 10 k
cosh kh

((2))

pA/pB = 1/cosh (10k)

pB/pA =

1.236714976

k= cosh-1(1.237)/10
k=
0.0675
L=
2/k =

93.09889137

cosh(10k) =

9.81

ms-2

1025

kgm-3

3.14

L = 93.1 m
T=8s
L
C

tanh(kh)
Lo
Co
tanh(0.0675h) = L/L0 =

0.93248088

0.0675h=
h=

from (1)

p A g

24.74

tanh-1(0.93248)
24.8394653

1
cosh kh

20.7 g

h= 24.8 m
1
cosh0.0675h

(20.7*1000*cosh(0.0675*24.84))/g = H/2
H = 11.40

Q6
H0=
1.15 m
T=
14
s
L0 = 305.76 m
-1
C0 = 21.84 ms

kR
kR=

bo
b

1
0 .5
1.4141

at harbour entrance
h1= 10
m
h1/L0 =
0.033
from tables,

b1 =

tanh(kh1) =
n1=

600

at bridge
h2 = 5
b2 = 100

0.4395

h2/L0 =

0.9329

from tables,

m
m
0.016
tanh(kh2) =

C1/C0= tanh (kh1)

C1 =

ks

n2=

0.3117
0.967

-1
9.60 ms

1 Co
2n C

H1 = kRks1H0 = 1.141*1.1043*1.15 =

C2/C0= tanh (kh2)

ks1 =

C2 =

1.1043
1.80 m
H1=1.8 m

6.81

ms

-1

from energy conservtion,

E1C1n1b1 = E2C2n2b2
H1/H2 =

sqrt(C2n2b2/C1n1b1)

H1/H2 =

sqrt(C2n2*100/C1n1*600)

H1/H2 =
H2 =

0.35003
5.13 m
H2 = 3.63 m