Methods of spreading

1. Manual methods:
Fully Hand spreading: this method is working by two
people who are working from two different side of spreading
table by hand or spreading fabric on the table by crossing a
rod in to the tube in the centre of roll of fabric. This spreading
process a little slow and not so much finished and quality full.
Hand spreading with hook: This method also a part of
manual process called hand process with hook because this
process is a little different from hand process with a little
extra material called hook. Which is made from iron and this
tool looks like an English alphabet J. This method has a little
advantage than hand process.
Hand spreading with spreading track: Spreading track is
a special tool for hand process. Tracks carry the roll of fabric
and spread on the spreading table by changing this position
from front to the end of the spreading table. This method is
working by two people who are working from two different
side of spreading table by handling the track tools and spread
the fabric on the table. The basic three condition of making a
lay of fabric are not include in following manual methods.

1. Mechanical methods
Semi Automatic spreading: Semiautomatic machine is
working almost similar to Hand process with spreading track
process because this methods working technique and
working prouder are same but this process are working by
electric motor. A roll of fabric are installed in the machine like
Hand process with spreading track and this roll are spreading
on spreading table automatically. The spreading machine are
running on the spreading table by from one side too another
side by electrical and mechanical power

The advantage of semi automatic machine

The machine has the ability automatically count the ply
of fabric.
After cut the fabric the machine has the ability to catch the
edge of fabric.
This machine has a special tool called inspection light which is
check ant kind of fault in fabric.
To salvage alignment this machine has a photoelectric guide.
The machine has the ability automatically cut the ply of fabric.
The opening up of fabric from roll is positive & there is a
regulator to adjustment the spreading and opening up fabric
speed.

The facility to maintain the tension of fabric is including in this

machine.
To make the surface plain has a toll are called leveling blade.
A platform is installed with the head of the machine for
operator to seat and operate the machine.
This machine can spread three miter of fabric and this
machine can carry from 80 KGs to 675 KGs.
This machine can spread 100 miter fabrics per minute.
25 CM lay can be makes by this machine.

Fully Automatic spreading: Fully automatic machine is

upgrade version of Semiautomatic. This machine has the all
of quality which is included in Semiautomatic. Full automatic
machine has some special feature are makes it more special.
Fully automatic machine is maintained by robot and micro
processors.

The advantage of fully automatic spreading machine

This machine can be directed or fixes how many ply have to
spread before start spreading.
This machine is working by robotic technique so if the fabric
roll gone empty then this machine get another new roll
automatically without any human power and start again
spread where it was ended.
There is a sensor in front of head. This sensor marks the fault
area of any fabric and automatically cut the fabric width and
stat again spreading.
Every type of fabric is able to spread and its can makes every
type of lay.
This is automatic spreading machine so its can work so many
faster then others spreading methods.

Types of Lay Plan:

Half Garment Lay includes only half of the garment pieces for
example one side left or right. Generally used for tubular fabrics.
Whole Garment Lay includes garment pieces, left and right sides.
Generally used for Open width fabrics.
Single Size Lay is used using all garment pieces of one single size.
Disadvantageous as the consumption of fabric is higher.

Types of Lay:
1. Single Ply is a single layer of fabric generally to make samples
2. Multiple Ply is a number of fabric layers stacked on one top of other
3. Stepped Lay is multiple lay in which groups of layers have different

lengths generally used for getting best utilization and consumption of

fabric.

Forms of Spreading:
1. One Way Cutting is when fabric is laid the same way up with grain or
print pattern running in the same direction. Fabric has to be cut at the end
of each ply.
2. Fact to Face Cutting is when the plies are laid in pairs face to face.
The grain or pattern runs in the same direction.
3. Two Way Cutting is when plies are laid continuously from left to right
and right to left without cutting at the end. Most Efficient method of
spreading. Cannot be used with grain restrictions or one directional
printed fabric.

Spreading Modes:
A spreading mode is the manner in which fabric plies are laid out for
cutting. The spreading mode is determined by the fabric characteristics,
quality standards of the firm, and available equipment.
Two fabric characteristics that determine the spreading mode are the
direction of fabric face and the direction of the fabric nap.
1. Direction of Fabric Nap:
A second consideration in selecting the spreading mode relates to the
direction of the fabric nap. Placement of the nap may be nap-one-way
(N/O/W) or nap-up-and-down (N/U/D).
2. Direction of Fabric Face
The fabric face may be positioned in two ways: face-to-face (F/F) or with
all plies facing-one-way (F/O/W), face up or face down. Face-to-face (F/F)
spreading may be continuous as the spreader moves up and down the
table.

Fabric Put-up and Spreading Modes:

1. Fabric Put-up; Open and Rolled

Fig: Fabric is flat open with the face to the inside of the roll

2. Fabric Put-up; Folded and Rolled

Fig: Fabric is folded on one end and both selvages are superimposed on
the other edge of the roll. Face is to the inside of each folded layer

3. Fabric Put-up; Tubular Fabric Rolled

Fig: Tubular Fabric from a circular knitting machine is rolled up. Face is to
the inside of the roll, and there is a fold at each end of the roll

4. Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face One Way, Nap One Way
(F/O/W, N/O/W)

Fig: Spreading starts at one end of the table on each ply

5. Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face One Way, Nap UP and Down
(F/O/W, N/U/D)

Fig: Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far end,
rotated 180 degrees, then spread to the beginning. The Fabric is cut and
rotated 180 degrees then the process is repeated.

6. Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F,
N/O/W)

Fig: Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far end,
the roll is brought to the beginning of the table, rotated 180 degrees,
then spread to the far end again. The Fabric is cut at the far end, brought
back to the beginning of the table, rotated 180 degrees then the process
is repeated.

7. Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face to Face, Nap Up and Down

(F/F, N/U/D)

Fig: Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is folded over at the
far end, then spreading continues back to the beginning of the table. The
Fabric is folded over then the process is repeated.
8. Spreading Mode; Folded Fabric, Face to Face, Nap One Way
(F/F, N/O/W)

Fig: Folded fabric spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at
the far end, then returned to the beginning. Then the process is
repeated. On the control side of the table the Fold is superimposed one
layer on the previous layer. This process is also used on tubular rolled
fabric

9. Spreading Mode; Folded Fabric, Face to Face, Nap Up and Down

(F/F, N/U/D)

Fig: Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is spread to the far
end of the table. The fabric is folded over, then spread back to the
beginning. The fabric is folded over, then the process is repeated. On the
control side of the table the Fold is superimposed one layer on the
previous layer. This process is also used on tubular rolled fabric

Fig: THE SPREADING PROCESS & SPREADING MODES OF FABRIC IN A

GARMENTS FACTORY

Evaluating Spreading Cost

There is a direct relationship between spreading methods and time. The
two cost calculations for spreading are
1. The labour cost for the time to spread, and
2. The cost of fabric absorbed in the spreading of good garments as
well as the fabric cost of ends and damages.
These costs may be calculated for each lay, or may be applied to
averages for spreading time and # garments per marker

1. Spreading Labour Cost

Labour cost is calculated as the Cost per hour (loaded with an
overhead and profit factor), multiplied by the Average spreading time.
This cost is divided by the number of garments produced in the spread.
Spreading Labour Cost = Labour Cost/hour X
Spreading time

# Garments
/marker

2. Spreading vs. walking

When the spreader is deadheading as in the F/O/W- N/O/W and F/O/WN/U/D method, the cost of spreading will be almost double of the cost of
F/F methods. Since labour time is directly related to spreading cost and
quality, the use of labour saving devices is important to spreading.

3. The Cost of Ends and Damages

The Cost of Ends and Damages is calculated by taking the total
yardage recorded for a lay due to these two factors. This yardage is
multiplied by the $cost/ yard for purchasing these goods divided by the
number of garments spread in the lay. Even though ends are actually first
quality fabric, they are un-usable in the spread. The only way to recoup
the cost of ends is to attempt to sell them off (salvage value).
Cost of Damages and Ends = # Yards lost to Damages & Ends X
Fabric Cost/yard
# Garments / marker