Geonjerett Kinlihan

Banaue Rice Terraces

Asia is filled with rice fields, but nowhere are they as spectacular an art form as in Banaue Philippines. The Banaue Rice Terraces have often been called the "Eighth Wonder of the World" due to the extent and height of these gigantic stairways. They soar for several thousand feet upwards and extend for miles. Standing at the terrace viewpoint, the green steps extend for as far as the eye can see. Banaue Hotels Banaue Rice Terraces Tours History of Banaue This engineering marvel was created 2000 years ago, hand-carved out of the mountains by the Ifugao tribe before the Colosseum was erected in Rome or Hadrian's Wall in the UK. The terraces of Banaue are irrigated by mountain springs, and the same families that farmed them thousands of years ago maintain many of them. The Banaue Rice Terraces have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, and just in time, as the terraces of Banaue are increasingly in need of environmental protection. Climate change and earthquakes have severely affected the irrigation system and caused widespread erosion. Families that have stewarded the land of Banaue Philippines for generations have slowly given up farming rice, in favor of faster growing crops. Many of their younger family members are also moving away to the bigger cities. Initiatives have been set up to preserve the terraces, but environmental change continues to take its toll. Banaue tours typically begin out of Manila, where travelers take a night bus around 11 pm, journeying north direct to Banaue Philippines. Alternatively, big groups can rent minivans, but sitting for about ten hours in a cramped space is not all that advisable. Travelers can also opt to plan Banaue tours as part of a more extensive trip around the Cordillera. A common route is Manila - Baguio (popular summer retreat and the most urbanized city in the area) - Banaue. Buses, which ply this route, include Autobus, Dangwa, and Victory. To get the most magnificent view of the Banaue Rice Terraces, you should hike on the terraces themselves. It is best to hire a guide to help you access villages and find the easiest route around the sometimes tricky paths. The average height of the terraces of Banaue is around ten feet, so anyone unfortunate enough to slip and fall will likely find themselves unharmed, but very muddy. Banaue tours should also include excursions to the nearby villages of Batad and Bangaan. Batad in particular is a beautiful hamlet situated in the midst of terraces, halfway down the face of a mountain. It offers breathtaking views and the opportunity to visit a waterfall and the local village, which retains traditional Ifugao stilt houses.

A Travel Guide for Banaue and the Ifugao Rice Terraces

Banaue is the gateway to the UNESCO World Heritage listed Ifugao rice terraces of Northern Luzon. The Banaue environs are visually beautiful, high in the mountains, sometimes shrouded in mist and cool rain. The rice terraces are a fabulous testament to the inspired agricultural engineering of the Ifugao people. Some of these terraces were constructed 2000 plus years ago, and all are still in use today. The best time to go is between February and May end, when it is least likely that the views will be obscured by low level clouds. Tourists come here to enjoy the scenery, to gaze at it from one of the many view points, to trek through it, or to wake up in it. I remember how awed I was by the scale of these rice terraces on my first visit some 10 years ago. I have been to or through Banaue more than 50 times since and often take the scenery for granted now. For me, the pleasure of visiting Banaue is staying in Batad or Bangaan, and waking up in the morning with the view

of the terraces through my window this I cant tire of. My last visit to Banaue and Batad was in January 2010. For more information about Batad, see my Batad Travel and Accommodation Guide I dont particularly like the town of Banaue, and only stay there for an occasional overnight. The town center is ramshackle and ugly, like most towns in the Philippines, but fortunately it is only a tiny blot on this vast landscape. If your time is limited, as is often the case with Filipino tourists or Manila based expats, then the centrality of Banaue makes it a good base while taking in as many sights as possible, especially if you dont have your own transport. A walk down the road along the valley is a nice thing to do, just for the fresh air and great views of the tangle of buildings along the main road. On the way back to town, brave the swing bridge. UNESCO describes the Banaue Rice Terraces thus The Ifugao Rice Terraces epitomize the absolute blending of the physical, socio-cultural, economic, religious, and political environment. Indeed, it is a living cultural landscape of unparalleled beauty. This culture that built and maintained the terraces is rapidly disintegrating though, and in 2001, the Ifugao rice terraces were put on the List of World Heritage in Danger. As can be expected, the newer generations of Ifugaos do not aspire to the toil and hard labor of their ancestors. As a consequence, many of the narrower and low-productive terraces are falling into disrepair. In the future, more and more of the upkeep will be carried out by contract laborers, probably from tourism funding, or the terraces may collapse like a house of cards. Have a look at how narrow some of the terraces are and then imagine how little produce could come from such a tiny strip of land; weigh that up against the amount of backbreaking work required for such a miniscule return. For now the terraces are still in pretty good shape, and you wont be disappointed with what you see. The Ifugao people were a fierce race. Tribal wars were common and headhunting expeditions between warring tribes were commonplace in years past. Their history has produced a super strong, proud people, quite different in appearance to other provincial peoples - shorter, muscular from a very young age, darker skin tone and broader features. Occasionally one may see an old man or woman in traditional loincloth or tapis shopping at the local market, but for younger people this clothing is reserved for traditional celebrations. Some elders wear the tapis, etc. for photo opportunities with tourists, and for which it is a courtesy to pay maybe P20 pesos each to the people in this photograph. There is no land ownership around the terraces as such, but only the right to till, plant, harvest and maintain their family plots. Once the family ceases to do this, ownership of the land passes to another, be it a neighboring farmer or relative of the original owners.

Restaurants Places to Eat with a View in Banaue Town Center

One thing that you will definitely want to do in Banaue, is have a meal or drink while enjoying a great view.
Sanafe Lodge and Restaurant

They have best and largest view deck and this is a great place to have a beer, or any other drink. From their verandah restaurant, there is a panoramic view of the local rice terraces dotted with structure ranging from native huts to absurd looking buildings more suited to a Disneyland theme park. Sanafes food is disappointing and their service worse. Order drinks in advance before you need them, and eat somewhere else.
Peoples Lodge and Restaurant

Their view deck is a narrow verandah which can seat about 10 people, but it is a squeeze to get in and out. There are many more tables inside. The verandah is certainly a nice place to sit and have a beer or a meal. The view is almost the same as that which you will see from Sanafe. The service is a bit slow but the food is OK - I have eaten here countless times.
Uyamis Green View Lodge

Their food is great and so is the service. There is no verandah so the view can only be enjoyed by looking out through the window. Some of the meals I had here in January 2010 were Tinolang Manok with rice (chicken cuts with vegetables in a ginger flavored soup) P110; curry and rice - P80; sauteed leafy vegetables - P50; all very delicious.

Accommodation
The peak season is the Christmas/New year period and the Easter week (holy week) and some guest houses may charge more over those two weeks ask when you book.
Peoples Lodge and Restaurant

It is located right in the heart of town and this is where I normally stay. The last time was in January 2010. Because the rooms are at the back of the building, they are generally quiet, unless you have noisy neighbors. The rooms are typical backpacker type - old, very basic, but clean enough. All except for a few rooms have private bathrooms with hot showers. These showers fluctuate between many temperature ranges during a single wash but that is still much better than a cold shower.
Sanafe Lodge and Restaurant

Their new rooms are the nicest I have seen in town and the decor reflects good taste in interior design very unusual to see in this part of the world. Some of the new rooms have nice views over the rice terraces also. I did notice a musty smell in the rooms though and I was told it was because they have been newly painted it could be why? There are also budget rooms available, which are OK, but I think there is better value in town. Sanafe is right in the center of town.
Banaue Hotel

This is a large hotel complex with 81 rooms, a 200 seat restaurant and an outside swimming pool. It is the only hotel type accommodation that you are going to find anywhere in the Ifugao province. It is government owned and run and has some of the hallmarks of a hotel run by a bureaucracy short on funds. I assume it is not very profitable. I was told in January 2010, that there was no internet at the hotel because they didnt have the budget for it yet. That is surprising given it costs P999 a month for a SmartBro Wi-Fi connection and a few thousand pesos for a router. The rooms are quite spacious but definitely not modern. The hotel was built in 1974 with a second wing added some time later. The carpets and soft furnishes show stains and wear but not enough to put you off. The restaurant looks nice and has some good views, but I have not eaten there so I cant comment on the food but no one has ever recommended it to me in all the years I have been coming to Banaue.
Banaue Youth Hostel

This hostel is run by the same government department as the Banaue Hotel and it is on the same grounds. The dormitories are neat and clean, but from what I saw, not popular with the tourists. I hear that they are mostly used by groups of students. If you are traveling alone, it may be a good option because the cost is very low.
Uyamis Green View Lodge

Their rooms are nice, simple and clean, but a bit dark because of the dark timber used throughout - definitely worth a look though. The woody feel about the place may be more to your liking than Peoples Lodge. I have not stayed here, but I like the food in their restaurant. Uyamis Green View Lodge is in the center of town and only 50 meters down the road from Peoples Lodge.

Sightseeing and Places to Stay Outside of Banaue Town

Banaue Tourism Council and Tour Guides

There is strong competition between the tour guides association of Banaue and that of Batad. The Batad guides want tourists to use their guides to explore Batad, while the Banaue tour guides dont want to be restricted in where they bring the tourists. If you are only touring Batad, there is no need to bring a guide all the way from Banaue so use a Batad guide from the village. If you want the guide to walk you into the village, then take a guide from Banaue. There is more information about this in my Batad Travel guide. The Banaue Tourism Council is the name of the Banaue guides association. It is a non-government group and their purpose is to sell you a tour packages or have you use one of their guides. They will give you a map, ask

for a P20 environmental fee, and help you choose a guide or transport. All the guides and transport rates are a fixed price and are the same regardless of where you book. The price list in the Banaue hotel is the same as that in the Tourism Council. A detailed copy of the vehicle rates can be seen by clicking on the image of Banaue vehicle rates. The Banaue Tourism Council is located right in the center of town and you wont need directions to find them. Only take accredited guides - not he ones that may be waiting at the bus station when you arrive!
Banaue Viewpoint

You cant go to Banaue without going to the viewpoint. Its on the main road on the outskirts of the town, about 4 Km from the town center. A guide is not necessary and it is a good walk if you are up to it. You will need a guide if you want to trek there through the terraces. Early morning or late afternoon is usually the best time because the shadows cast add an extra dimension to the terraces - the midday sun can make the terraces look dead. There are zillions of souvenir shops crowded into a small area at the view point, but they dont get in the way when you are on the view deck.
Batad and the Tappiyah Falls Overnight Stay

I have been to Batad many times and it is one of my favorite places in the Philippines. This is where I often take friends and family when they visit me in the Philippines. I have a separate travel guide for Batad which has much more detailed information. My recommendation is to stay at least a night in Batad. There are some 11 different guest houses and homestays to choose from. Accommodation is very basic backpacker type and typically P200 per person a night. Many are connected to the electricity grid. for more information about Batad, see my Batad Travel and Accommodation Guide
Batad and the Tappiyah Falls Day Trip

If time is limited, Batad can be done as a day trip. You wont need a guide to get to Batad. For touring the village going to the waterfall, I suggest you get a local guide. You dont have to have one, but you will learn so much more about the village and the history of the place if you have a local guide. It can be an arduous walk from the waterfall back up to the saddle, so dont do it if you are not used to long uphill walking. More information is on my Batad Travel Guide.
Bangaan

For those who dont want to trek to Batad, this is a good alternative place to stay overnight, and much nicer than staying in Banaue. The Guest house on the main road to Mayoyao, and can be accessed by car or regular jeepneys. It is only a couple of km past the Batad Junction. The village is pretty, and the walk down to it is relatively easy. See my article about Bangaan for more information.
Hapao and Hungduan Rice Terraces

The junction of the road leading to the Hapao and Hungduan rice terraces, is about half way between Banaue town proper and the View Point. There are some regular Jeepneys that ply the route, or you can hire a tricycle or your own jeep to get there. This narrow road winds around the mountains with some great views of rice terraces. The only accommodation is the Native Village Inn at Uhij, about 9 km out of Banaue. This accommodation is traditional native huts. The Native Village Inn is situated high up on a mountain with stunning views over the Hapao rice terraces. There is road access to it. Many short or long treks can be started from here. From here you can also take transport to take you to the unique spider web terraces of Hungduan. For more information about exploring and touring the Hapao and Hungduan rice terraces, I suggest you go to the Native Valley Inn web site, which is an excellent site about this region. You can find their web site in my Banaue Links.

Souvenir Hunting in Banaue

Banaue has always been known for its wood carving and basketry. Over the many years of tourism and collecting, the genuine antiques have disappeared, to be replaced by awful mass-produced tourist items ranging from dried frog key rings to horrible wooden ashtrays. Weaving has become another tourist item suffering from mass production. However, for the adventurous seeker willing to poke around in dark shops and dusty corners, there are still treasures to be found.

The Bulol, or rice guard, is found everywhere. Quite recently carved and carefully aged, some of these pieces would stand up well in a collection of primitive art. Traditional utilitarian items like carved wooden chests, chairs and wooden bowls, fantastically carved doors and panels, are all still available for those who look carefully. Many designs are contemporary, but based on traditional ideas. In one shop I found a 1.5 meter Dragon Bike all carved from wood, even the wheels. The craftsmanship was superb and it was designed to be dismantled for transport. It was a functioning bike, relying purely on gravity to move about otherwise, man power to push. Recently woven basketry is not very good these days, being produced in mass. It is possible to find treasures, as I did, but anything worth buying will come in from outlying villages where the crafts are still practiced traditionally. Knowing what to look for certainly helps. The Family Gift Shop, on the dead end road heading to the Municipal Hall, is big and has a good collection of panels and carved wooden items at the back. Mary Ann C. Tacio Souvenir, on the way up the hill heading out of the very Center of town, had the fabulous bike amongst other interesting things.

Getting There - Buses

Ohayami Trans

Ohayami Trans is now the only bus service going directly from Manila to Banaue. They have two buses leaving daily, the first at 9PM and the second at 10PM.The two return buses leave Banaue at 7 and 8 AM. The bus leaves Manila from the Corner of J. Fajardo and A.H. Lacson in Sampaloc. Their Phone number is +639175060817. A seat can be reserved but you will need to pay in cash at least half a day before departure.
GV Florida Transport Manila to Banaue

Service discontinued
Daytime Travel to Banaue from Manila

There are no regular daytime bus services to Banaue. This is partly because the daytime traffic adds hours to the trip. The stretch between Santa Rita and San Jose is the worst OK if youre not in a hurry. There are countless of buses per day traveling from Manila to the north through Solano, so you can catch anyone of those. Make sure you leave very early, say be on the bus by 5AM, so that there is ample time to make it to Banaue from Solano. Remember, you still have two plus hours of traveling time when you reach Solano, and you definitely want to get to Banaue before nightfall. It is dark by 6.30 to 7 PM. The travel to Lagawe, the capital of Ifugao Province, will probably be by jeepney, and also from there on to Banaue. Lagawe offers the tourist nothing worth staying for.

Hotels in Banaue

The Hotels in Banaue are geared to welcome the many visitors coming to the place to see the many tourist attractions. There are no constraints on budget as one can find different styled and budgeted accommodation in Banaue. From 5 Star Hotels in Banaue to cheap Hotels in Banaue, there are all kinds of hotels in Banue. This has allows the visitors to have a comfortable and memorable stay in Banaue. The luxury hotels provide some opulent treat to the guests, while those on a fixed budget, will find the budget hotels in Banaue a nice proposition. But all types of hotels are geared to provide the best amenities to its guests in the budget. All hotels provide warm hospitality to its guests. The mountain province of Banaue is known as the "Weaver's paradise" as there are many weaving centers

which makes different designs, showcasing the province's cultural heritage. 4 Star Hotels in Banaue Mt Data Hotel

The hotel is situated halfway between Baguio and Banaue. There is an ambiance of romance at Mt Data Hotel. Guests at the hotel can see the sun rising over the great Cordillera range. The rooms are wellfurnished and are equipped with modern amenities, like intercom and piped-in music. The hotel has private toilet and baths. The hotel provides business facilities for the business clientele. Other Hotels in Banaue

The Banaue Hotel and Youth Hostel offers 90 fully-carpeted rooms, which are well-furnished and have private balconies. Facilities include swimming pool, indoor games, foreign exchange counter, parking area, etc. There is an on site restaurant, bar and Disco. The hotel has banquet facilities. The hotel is located 4000 feet above the sea level and is ideal for nature lovers as well as adventure lovers. Guests can see the cultural shows of the Ifugao ritual dances on weekends.

Banaue View Inn Banaue Hotel and Youth Hostel, Banaue Mt. Data Hotel, Banaue Banaue Ethnic and Fine Forest Resort Cozy Nook Inn Family Inn and Resort Hiwang Native House Inn Sanafe Lodge Fairview Inn Halfway Lodge Ilob Village Inn Las Village Lodge and Resort New Wonder Lodge Terrace Ville Inn People's Lodge Inn Spring Village Inn Green View Lodge

Restaurants and Bars in Banaue

There are many good Restaurants and Bars in Banaue where you can dine with your family and enjoy the mouthwatering delicacies. Here are some of the Restaurants and Bars in Banaue that you can hop into to enjoy a wonderful dining session. People's Lodging House and Restaurant - This popular restaurant is situated on the ground floor of the People's Lodging House. This restaurant serves a wide assortment of dishes both for the guests as well as the outsiders. In the rear part of the restaurant, there is a veranda from where you can enjoy a good view of the rice terraces, a small village, and a hanging bridge. This popular restaurant serves a variety of dishes from breakfast, snacks, lunch and dinner. Banaue Restaurant: This place is ideal for fine dining with family and friends. This restaurant is situated inside the famous Banaue Hotel. If you want to enjoy the lovely views while dining then get a table by the window to enjoy a view of the terraces. You must try the locally-made mouth watering longaniza for breakfast. This special dish is only prepared by the hotel's master chef and is not available at the market. The Longaniza is made of ground pork with spices wrapped in pig's intestinal lining. Another good place to hang out is the Cafe Jam. This is one of the nicest restaurants in town. It is a nice cafe in the and also has a small cyber cafe. You can enjoy some of the good traditional delicacies here. Imbayah Restaurant - This is yet another place where you can enjoy sumptuous meals with family and friends. You can enjoy having breakfast, lunch or dinner at this fabulous restaurant. Some of the most

mouthwatering dishes in the menu include bread rolls, butter and jam, rice, 6 dishes (fish, pork, beef), fruits (watermelon and pineapple) and simple cakes (banana, chiffon and chocolate). They also serve coffee and tea. Banaue Hotel Restaurant - This is a popular restaurant of the town where the food is simply superb. The ambiance of the restaurant is also good for family dining. Most of the standard hotels also have bars which stock well-selected drinks.