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An Update
Its been a few years since Ive posted this direction and it seems many people use it to remove, clean, or replace their ETM. Ive learned a few things since 2005 when I posted the last version of this direction. Here is a brief summary of the updates Volvo developed updated ETM software in 2005 which seems to reduce the unpredictable onset of limp home mode (20mph max) that have stranded many owners. It also seem to enable longer serviceable life from the ETM. With a little bit of knowledge on the construction of this ETM, Im guessing Volvo simply change the software to be less conservative when detecting errors in the readings from ETMs internal angle sensors. Low cost Volvo computerized diagnostic tool (VIDA/DiCE) is now available for about $200. This tool contains an ETM test which will tell the health of ETM angle sensors. Volvo also started Service For Life campaign which provides free software upgrades during services (the level of service required seems to differ between dealers). The added effort of running the ETM test is just a few minutes once the technician have hooked up the computer for the software upgrade. So you might ask if they can check your ETMs health for free or few minutes of labor ! See ETM Testing below for reference. There is now aftermarket rebuild service to repair this ETM and DIY parts. The main failure on this ETM is a simple Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). It is not too difficult to replace but does require a little patience. I have now included the directions on repairing the ETM at the end of this document.
Acknowledgement
Big thanks to flippu10 on Volvospeed. His directions motivated me to not be overwhelmed by all those pipes and wires at first glance on this job.
After the ETM cleaning, my car had more performance and ran really well. I was impressed. It was like having a new car again. But then I got another reduced performance message and all my performance gains after the ETM cleaning was gone. I decided to reset the computer by disconnecting the ETM and the battery. The improved performance magically came back after. I realized it is the computer reset from ETM cleaning that gave me the performance increase and not the removal of slight oily film in the throttle body. Ultimately, my issues was only fixed by replacing or repairing the ETM.
ETM Testing
Volvos diagnostic tool (VIDA/DiCE) has an ETM test program. This test can be conducted while the ETM is still in the car. The test basically does the following Open and close the throttle 4 times Compared the 2 angle sensors on each ends of the ETM If the angle difference is greater then 13 degrees, Volvo considers it bad. Ive read people having failing ETMs and only showing 3-4 degrees of difference.
Here is the graph showing a good ETM and one that is bad. The first one shows the green/blue lines (sensor value from each of the angle sensors) very close to each other. The bad one is much further apart. The black lines shows the difference between the 2 sensor readings. On the good ETM, the Y scale on the black line is 0 to 0.8 degrees. On the bad ETM, the Y scale on the black line is 0 to ~75+ degrees.
General Comments
Most steps of this job looks harder than it really is. Most items and connections you can see removes easily The turbo pipe feeding the ETM is the single hardest item to remove and reassemble when doing it first time without experience. I have since learned some nice tricks to make it really easy. Took me a total of about 4-5 hours the first time. But I think I spent 3+ hours trying to figure out how to remove and reassemble the turbo pipe from the ETM. I can now remove the ETM in probably 10-20min and reassemble in about the same time. Ill outline the tips in this document.
B2. Hose clamps with screw for tightening/loosing clamp for about 5/8" diameter hose B3. 3 tie wraps that can provide about 1 inch loop B4. Throttle body cleaner (valvoline synthetic carb+choke+throttle body cleaner worked well for me) B5. Old tooth brush to scrub the ETM deposits
Note
The directions will indicate some locations with left and right. Left is driver side and right is passenger side in US models.
Disconnecting the negative terminal requires a very specific sequence. Here is the direction o Turn everything on your climate control off (AC, fan, heated seats etc..) o Keys out of the ignition o Close all 4 doors, leave the rear hatch open for access to the battery o Wait 15min (climate control unit will continue to run even with keys out) o Disconnect the battery o Reconnecting the battery also requires a very specific sequence that will be outlined later.
Loosen the clamp on intercooler side (about half way down the lower left of the radiator) and pull the hose out of the intercooler connection.
Take off the hose after removing hose clamp (H4). I squeezed the crimped part (edge wise along the length of the clamp) on top with a pair of plier and the clamp just popped open. 9
Take off the 2 electrical connectors (E3 and E4). There is a tab to squeeze on both of them before applying pulling force. The top on the black connector is facing up while the tab (doesnt give much when squeezed) for the grey connection is facing the passenger side and therefore blind. Here are close up pics for reference
Here is one of the hard steps. Feel and find the screw on the clamp (at the end of the U turn on the turbo pipe) holding the turbo pipe to the ETM. Use the proper tool depending on orientation. Mine was located in the very back (toward the engine block) with the screw head facing left. I had to use a 7mm socket fitted to 10
a screw driver handle + extension (to make about 10 inches total) to reach in under the intake manifold. Yours might be oriented different especially if it has been disassembled before. Anyway, your eyes arent useful in this task, it is all by feel. Here is a picture of what the pipe and clamp looks like. The clamp in the picure is already loosened and removed from the fitting.
This pipe will usually be hard to pull off the first time since the factory assembly. It is hard to get good leverage leverage on it. I finally put a screw driver over the U turn on the pipe and pushed down with one hand in front of the ETM and the other under the intake manifold. It came out right away. Now you have to twist and angle past the confined space to remove this pipe. If youve not disconnected the battery, take the metal clamp off and remove it before removing the this pipe to avoid having a large metal part twisting around the live positive starter wire.
Remove ETM
Trace the ETM wire to connector and disconnect it (Picture 6) There is a tab on it. Press it and pull out the connector. Here is the picture of the tab with the connector already out
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Take out 4 ~3 inch long 10mm bolts arranged rectangular pattern around the throttle body opening hold the ETM to the intake manifold. Need to feel for it and operate in blind. They are just outside of the ETMs round intake lip. Here is a picture for reference. I found a ! ratchet with a deep 10mm socket worked well. Dont mind my ETM looking different than yours. Mine is undergoing home made contactless angle sensor modification !
Remember, counter clock wise to loosen (Remember that the ratchet is upside down so it looks like clock wise if you look down from top of the engine compartment) Pop off the ETM. Use slight force to loosen the hold by the gasket. Some later 2001 cars seems to have the connection cable routed behind a bracket holding the starter. There are 3 bolts, I just remove the bolt on the engine block and loosen the 2 nuts on the bolt attached to the starter to create enough space for the cable to come out. You can see the 2 rusty bolts attached to the starter in this
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following picture. The bottom bolt attached to the engine block is just visible at the very bottom of this picture next to the light blue paper towel.
Retighten the starter bracket. There is no need to route the cable behind there later.
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Connect the ETM electrical connector. No need to route the cable behind the starter bracket again. May want to zip tie to cable to something else so it doesnt get caught in the fan blades.
Everything after this is easy. Just reverse the disassembly process with the following additional notes If you have removed the fan assembly, then make sure the tabs on the bottom of the assembly fit into the slots on 2 side of the radiator. This is what holds the bottom of the fan assembly. Also be careful working these tabs pass the hoses on both side on the top of the radiator.
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All the electronics will power up suddenly as the key is in position II. This might seem odd but it is the proper direction from Volvo to reconnect battery. Whenever I disconnect/reconnect the battery on my car, sunroof and a few other electrical circuits don't work after. Just use your remote or door lock button or key to lock and unlock the doors. This resets all the communications on those circuits properly.
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