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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
SPLIT
Summer 2009
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
Summer nights
Cafes, bars and other hot spots

under the stars!
Diocletians
Palace
N2 - complimentary copy
www.inyourpocket.com
Full of festivals, fiestas and

feasts!
contEnts
Lovorka Maga
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Arriving in Split
The central hub of Dalmatia
The Basics
A prett picture and tourist centre info
Culture & Events
Interesting and boring stuff included
Go Gourmet
12
A popular dish in Family homes
Where to stay
15
Home sweet home
Restaurantes
20
A delirious and delicious collision of cultures
Cafs
24
Where to watch the world go by
Nightlife
Mail & Phones

25
I just call to say I luuuurve you...
26
Dont go anywhere without them
Going down to La-La Land
What to see
Those sights explaine
Getting around
Sport
33
35
45
...and the little country that could
Shopping
47
Take a little piece of my heart
Bussines Directory
48
Banks and stuff
Lifestyle Directory
49
Important numbers
Split Dalmatia County
50
Out and about around the city
Maps & Index

Street index
City centre map
City map
Country map
split.inyourpocket.com
59
61
62
66
Summer 2009
aRRiVinG in split
FoREWoRd
For decades Split was an odd paradox, a city steeped in
history and culture that didnt seem to care whether it got a
slice of the tourism pie or not. It was traditionally a transit
point through which tourists passed on their way to resorts on
the islands of Bra and Hvar. Even Splits own citizens would
drift off to nearby beaches in the summer season, leaving the
city in a state of semi-deserted balmy stupour. And although
day-trippers were frequently bussed into town to drool over
the citys architectural riches, few locals ever considered that
Split really qualified as a destination in itself.
The last few years have seen a huge change in Splits
fortunes. Modern travellers have been turned on by the sheer
urban energy of one of the Mediterraneans great port cities,
and have opted to stick around for a few days rather than
hurrying to catch the first boat out. And the locals who
have always considered their town to be one of the most
inexplicably unique places on earth, but habitually assume
that outsiders are too stupid to realize it have awoken to
the realization that the new breed of foreigner actually thinks
Split is just as cool as they do. And to be honest, Split doesnt
have to try too hard to impress. For dedicated urban nomads
its a dream city of shore-side cafes, back-alley bars, and a
vivacious, dressed-to-thrill cast of locals for whom the art
of having a good night out is a lifelong calling.
And the normally slow-on-the-uptake city authorities appear
to be getting their act together too. The long-awaited
re-opening of the Municipal Art Gallery in May finally give
Split the sense of cultural focus it needed. This summers
exhibition of Marc Chagall prints in the Old Town Hall, Splits
first attempt to mount a blockbuster art show in the heart
of the summer season, also seems to indicate that times
are indeed a-changing.
Cover story
The front cover provides a wonderful
profile of the St Domnius belfry
(church tower where the bells hang).
St Domnius is the patron saint of
Split and his feast day is celebrated
on May 7. During the celebrations
people sing a song Zdravo Dujme
muenie, Splita grada zatinie
Hail Saint Domnius the martyr,
protector of the city Split.
Split In Your Pocket

Drakovieva 66
Zagreb, Croatia
tel. +(385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70
fax +(385-1) 492 39 24
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1846-856X
Plava Ponistra d.o.o.
Printed by Radin repro & roto, Zagreb
Cover Split Tourist Board
Europe In Your Pocket
By boat
Splits ferry port isnt a bad place to make the transition from
nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation and
has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see policemen
strolling around, dont be disturbed: those are just the customs
officers that work at the office located in the port. The toilet
near the back of the port will cost you 3kn and operates around
the clock. Theres a supermarket thats open from 06:30 20:30 daily and a few cafs and bars that are open according
to season and demand. Changing currency: There are at
least four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the
building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during their
working hours. Calling home: There are two public phones
inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased from the
kiosks that line the street directly outside the station. Getting
to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus
stop, with service to several points around town. Check the
schedule posted inside the stop to find the information you
need. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the street
takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and youll reach
the old town in about five minutes.
By bus
In Your Pocket is Europes biggest publisher of

locally produced travel guides, producing almost
four million guides per year. With print guides to
more than 50 cities across the continent, travellers ask for In Your Pocket guides by name:
they trust our content and our flawless levels of
accuracy. In Your Pocket remains committed to
its founding aim of covering the world with well
researched and well written city guides. This year
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and will be launching new guides in Glasgow,
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contribute, and think you have what it takes to publish your own In Your Pocket guide, get in touch
with us at pocketmycity@inyourpocket.com.
Editorial
Editor Vinja Arambai
Editor assistant Kristina Kova
Contributors Frank Jelini, Renata
Kontrec, Chad Phillips, Tocher Mitchell,
Jonathan Bousfield
Researcher Anita Piplovi
Layout & Design Maja Vidovi,
Gordan Karabogdan, Ivana Novak
Photos Split In Your Pocket team, TZ
Split, Lovorka Maga, Photoclub Split,
MKC Gallery
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Vinja Arambai
Sales & Circulation Manager
Kristijan Vukievi
Kreimir Grgi
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
Account manager: Mirna Cindri
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Split In Your
Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer.
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced in any
form, except brief extracts for the
purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Splits bus station is fairly small but has everything you need
to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open 00:00 24:00) 3kn can be found inside the station, along with the
domestic and international ticket windows and an information
desk. The domestic ticket window and information desk
both operate twenty-four hours. The international ticket
office operates 24h. The red and blue posters on the window
of the international ticket office list the international arrivals
and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open
06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of
the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 6,50kn per
hour, per piece of luggage. Getting to town: As its on the
same side of the street, the directions for getting around are
the same as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead
you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to
the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet
and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you
away directly in front of the bus station.
By car
From Zagreb So you have your own wheels and youd like to
know the easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries!
The fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is
to use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on
international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route
on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres long
and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving you of
157 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know youre
getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and thats
that! From Slovenia Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a
breeze. All you need to do is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb,
then hit the A-1 and keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit
to Split. From Italy Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here
are your directions, nice and sparkling clear. First, take the
E-70 motorway to Trieste and look for the signs that point to
Fiume and route number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses
Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61,
which will take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on
E-65 (local route 6) to Bosiljevo, where youll see signs for
the A-1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the
exit labeled Dugopolje.
By plane
Splits airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but
quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any
questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people
at the information desk, which is open from 05:15 - 22:00.
Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find a
toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also be
found by heading upstairs from the main hall. If you feel like
a drink or a bite before your flight, Restaurant and Caf Ikar
operates from 06:00 - 22:30 and has an excellent view of
the sea and palm trees swaying in the breeze. Changing
currency: Splitska Banka (Open 06:30 - 20:30) and the
post office (Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun) both operate
exchange offices and can be found at the far end of the main
hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling home:
You can purchase a phone card at the Slobodna dalmacija
kiosk (open according to flight times). There are public phones
in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet point
(which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second, upstairs
between the two doors leading to the mens and womens
toilets. Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are
a number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall.
Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or, if you arrived
on a Croatia Airlines flight, airport bus. Taxis take about thirty
minutes from the airport and shouldnt cost more than 300kn
for the trip. Public bus No 37 stops just in front of the airport
at twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute
intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 15kn one-way;
cross the street and wait at the stop there. Croatia Airlines
buses run according to the arrival times of flights and drop
you just next to the old town for 30kn.
By train
The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated storage lockers that can be accessed during the
stations working hours, from 06:10 - 22:20 daily. The lockers
have instructions in English. Getting to town: As its on the
same side of the street, the directions for getting around are
the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead
you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to
the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet
and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you
away directly in front of the train station.
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearly marked as such. We welcome all
readers comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
Summer 2009
Basics
Basics
Health & Safety
The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye
should be kept on ones belongings at all times, nevertheless.
Policija (Police no.92) are generally helpful in times
of crisis; keep in mind that they also perform occasional
checks of identity documents, so keep some identification
on you at all times.
Money
There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well
as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a
day. Many restaurants, bars and cafs accept credit cards,
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash
on you. If youre planning a trip to one of the islands in the
area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount
of cash you think youll need for the trip, as finding places
that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.
National holidays
January 1
January 6
April 12
April 13
May 1
June 11
June 22
June 25
August 5
August 15
October 8
New Years Day

Epiphany
Easter
Easter Monday
International Workers Day
Corpus Christi
Anti Fascit Resistance Day
Statehood Day
Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day
Feast of the Assumption
Independence Day
Lovorka Maga
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about

tipping, but seeing how youre a visitor to the country and
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a
bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round
their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to
tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staffs efforts seems like a
classy thing for a visitor to do, doesnt it?
Public Toilets
There are several spots that are labeled as having a public
toilet around the city, but not all of them are open. The safest
option is to use the facilities of a bar or caf while having
a drink on the premises. The best public one, complete
with staff on hand to keep it clean and tidy is on Kralja
Tomislava (I-2). It should be said that some of our female
staff members felt a slight hint of sexual discrimination, as
a cabin in the public WC runs 4kn, while those of us able to
stand and do their business will only have to pay 1kn. So
much for gender equality.
Customs
All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats,
sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will
be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts
in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs
offices for items over 500kn. Any Croatian art or cultural
works must receive export approval before purchase. Call
the Ministry of Finance for further details tel. 01 459
13 33, www.mfin.hr.
Electricity
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical
appliances.
Basic data
Population:
Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460
Split County: (April 2001): 463.676
Split (April 2001): 188.694
Territory: Croatias land territory takes up 56,542km2.
It borders with Hungar y, Slovenia, Serbia &
Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a seaborder with Italy.
Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist
attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are
some of the most beautiful on the planet and were just
named some of its most pure!
Islands: An amazing 1,246 islands lie off the Dalmatian
coast, 47 of them inhabited.
Climate: Mediterranean
Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European
Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Split it is 12:00
in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in
Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.
Tipping
Water
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
Roads
Croatian lawmakers cant seem to make up their minds
about the rules concerning drinking and driving. A recently
passed law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure and
chaste 0,0%. But recent developments have seen this law
changed yet again. The changes mean that if youre under
24 years of age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are,
however, over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you,
effective June 1, 2008. Once again, well leave it to others
to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the
mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably
save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more
people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are
common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars
have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit
in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph
on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot
fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any
reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence,
car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make
sure to always keep them with you.
Tourist information
Tourist information centre
Peristil bb, tel / fax: (+385 -21) 34 56 06
Riva, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 12
Riva, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda
7, tic-split@st.t-com.hr
Split & Dalmatia County Tourist Board
Prilaz brae Kaliterna 10/1
tel / fax (+385-21) 49 00 32 / 49 00 33
info@dalmatia.hr, www.dalmatia.hr
Tourist Board of Split
Trg Republike 2
tel (+385-21) 34 86 00
www.visitsplit.com
Smoking
A total ban on smoking in public spaces (including all cafes,
restaurants, bars and clubs) came into force on May 6.
Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-caf
culture in which people tend to socialize outdoors until well
into the autumn, the ban has had next to no effect on peoples
lifestyles thus far. What it does mean is that outdoor tables
at eating and drinking establishments are even more packed
than usual. But it has never been easier to find a spare seat
at even the most popular restaurants if youre prepared to
move inside.
Calling Split
From Zagreb: dial (021) and the number
Outside Croatia: dial (+385-21) and the number
Complete listings at: www.inyourpocket.com

Summer 2009
cultuRE & EVEnts
cultuRE & EVEnts

Photo by Dancing Bear
April 04 September 31 Klape at Peristil

Klape are traditional songs usually sung by a group of
men in the a capela style. Their voices range from bass
to baritone and they sure know how to create a symphony
without instruments. So whilst in Split, its worth the stroll
down the Riva where each and every night you can hear
Klape - in their element!
April 23 November 6 EL
SHATT The Croatian refugee
community in the Sinai
desert, Egypt (1944.-1946.)
The Exhibition of the Croatian
History Museum on the island
of Vis, in the Baterija Building,
city of Vis. An exhibition based
on historical events during WWII
which presents life in a refugee
camp as seen through the eyes
of ordinary men. The location
was set in the Sinai desert
where blocks of refugee camps
were built. Due to military
actions in Dalmatia, the Allies had organized for more than
30,000 people to be evacuated between1944 to1946.This
was one of the first camps in the entire war. Vis Island
May 5 August 9 Marc Chagall: dreams of love, poetry

and faith Displaying over seventy of the artists prints in
the Old Town Hall, the exhibition Marc Chagall: dreams of
love, poetry and faith promises to be one of the cultural
highlights of the summer. Central to the exhibition is a
series of 42 beautifully executed lithographs illustrating
the ancient Greek fable of Daphnis and Chloe, the arcadian
shepherd lovers who turn out to be the abandoned children
of aristocrats. Commissioned to illustrate the tale in 1952,
Chagall famously set off to Greece in order to capture the
right sense of mood. This delightfully dreamy sequence
of images, drenched in luminous greens and blues, is the
result. Radically different in style are the prints from Chagalls
Poemes series, which have the rough and immediate look
of contemporary street posters. Old Town Hall (Stara
vijenica), Narodni trg(Piazza) (I-2)
June 21 Tribute to Dino Dvornik Kontra regula

A festival dedicated to one of Croatias finest musicians
who recently passed away will take place at Bavice. The
festival is a one day musical extravaganza with both Croatian
and foreign performers. As Dino himself was praised for his
live shows and also experimented with electronic music.
Punters are bound to see and hear a bit of both with the
likes of Josipa Lisac, Gibonni, Oliver, Marijan Ban, Neno
Belan, TBF and others. Bavice beach(D-3)
Photo by Dancing Bear
June 10 - 30 A festival of street entertainers

Clowns, jugglers, acrobats, musiciansand many more
are set to dazzle at the 3rd international festival of street
entertainers in Split! Twenty days of fun and excitement
including free concerts can be seen at the Peristil, and other
city locations including the Fruit Square, Piazza, Riva etc.
June 15 - Septemeber 15 Summer Concert Programme
See some of the local up and coming stars present their
talents across three stages set along the Riva, Piazza and
in Diocletians Cellars. For further information call 32 21 11
or email piano1@st.t-com.hr
The Dalmatian Klapa

If the coastal regions of Croatia had a musical
trademark then it would undoubtedly be the stirring
sound of the klapa. Performing a capella songs with
delicate harmonies, the klapa is basically a small choir
numbering anything from three members upwards.
Often made up of informal groups of friends with an
instinctual feel for age-old Adriatic melodies, these
choirs are an important focus of local life and a source
of considerable pride for the communities they come
from.
Typical klapa songs focus on traditional Adriatic
concerns: falling in love over a plate of squid, going
night fishing with the lads, or pining for partners who
are sailing the seven seas. Although klapa harmonies
tend towards the smooth and soulful, the style retains
a raw emotional edge: hearing a klapa perform live
whether on stage at a festival or simply serenading
themselves at the table of a konoba can send shivers
down the spine.
Best places to experience klapa singing at its best are
the Omi Klapa Festival (www.fdk.hr), which features
outdoor concerts in the centre of Omi throughout the
month of July; or at the Dalmatian Song Evenings
(Veeri dalmatinske pisme; www.vdp.hr) in Katel
Kambelovac in early July.
10 Days of Diocletian
August 15 - 24 For 10 days the Diocletian palace returns
to its former glory and the city of Split transforms itself
into an ancient city. Relive the past as citizens dressed
in costume wander along the city streets and the
Emperor himself is led on his carriage by an entourage of
family and guards to the Peristil. See how he addresses
the cheering crowd and when he raises his thumbs, it
signals the opening of
the Diocletian fiesta.
There are festivities
for young and old
with gladiator reenactments, singers,
Klape, and a street
music festival. You
are invited to join the
Emperor himself as he
ducks down into the
Diocletian cellars for a
Roman feast - tasting
specialties
made
from honey, muscles,
fruit, vegetables, and
other unusual spices
which for days had
been cooked and
prepared according to old recipes by famous local chefs.
Visitors are able to dig in and do some major tasting with
this gourmet delight.
Events you cannot miss:
August 16 A week in celebrating the return of Marko
Polo The event opens with the arrival of Marko Polos ship
which will dock in Split. From there, extracts taken from
his books will be read to the public with the aid of music
and some figures of historical importance reincarnated
in costume. See how uneducated Europeans were
introduced to gun powder, coal, silk, porcelain, pasta and
paper money. The event turns out to be a true fiesta as
the nights end with a fireworks show.
Other highlights of the festival include:
August 21 Follow in the footsteps of Emperor Diocletian
and see how he retells his story and is accompanied
by a legendary group from Rome called Gruppo Storico
Romano, who will once again be guests at the festival.
Peristil(J-2)
August 23 Since Split is famous for its football, the
grand finale of the festival will be a game of Roman
football between the Romans and Dalmati. It will be held
in the evening hours at the Prokurative(I-2)
July 7 Arctic Monkeys

One of the most exciting new bands from Britain is coming
to the Prokurative. This will be their first ever concert in
Croatia. They have so far released two mega popular
albums and won an impressive number of awards, including
five British Awards. These lads fuse rock with a modern
commercial sound and sure to put on a great show this July.
Prokurative (I-2)
Fun for the whole family: www.inyourpocket.com

Summer 2009
10
cultuRE & EVEnts

Exhibitions
June 1 - 7 An exhibition arranged by the sculpting
department of the Art Academy in Split, MKC Gallery,
Savska bb(D/E-2)
June 2 - 18 An exhibition of paintings by Joe Marina
(Slo), Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb(J-2)
June 5 - 24 A contest exhibition by the Crometeo
Association, meteorological photography, Photo Club
Split, Marmontova 5(I-2)
June 15 - 21 Ante Slatin, The Napredak Society; an
exhibition of prints and drawings, The Conservatory
Department Gallery, Porinova 2(I-1)
June 17 - July 5 An
exhibition Fields of
Memory by artists
Alemka ivoje /
Tanja Perisi / Goran
Tomi, MKC Gallery,
Savska bb(D/E-2)
June 23 - July 9 An
exhibition of paintings
by Aleksandra Rotar,
Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb(J-2)
June 26 July 14 Nenad Reberak: Croatia, Photo
Club Split, Marmontova 5(I-2)
July 1 19 An exhibition of posters from the collection of
Petar Ivuli, Alliance francaise de Split, Marmontova
3(I-2)
July 14 - July 28 An exhibition of paintings by Vladimir
Megli, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb(J-2) and
The Milesi Palace
July 16 August 4 Ivan Filipin: Retrospective exhibition,
Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5(I-2)
cultuRE & EVEnts

July 14 - August 14 The 55th Split Summer Festival
A traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance
and music will be held in ambient venues throughout the
inner and outer Split historical centre. Together with the
local production by the Croatian National Theatre in Split,
the festival will host many musical, theatre and dance
perfomances from Croatia and abroad. Peristil(J-2), Cellars
of the Diocletians Palace(J-2), Crikvine Katelet(A-3),
Prokurative(I-2)
July 18 Perspectives International Cultural Fair
Perspectives will welcome the most progressive artists
of our time to provoke and entertain you with new views
on art and life. This unique living gallery has never been
shown before. A sample is offered on the web site, but the
complete experience is only available live. Visitors will have
the chance to actively take part in some performances!
Admission free. Hotel Adria, Katela
July 25 August 01 The Atlantis Summer Challenge
This is daredevil paradise people! A festival of skateboard culture
will offer visitors a cultural, musical and competitive insight into
the skate scene. The wider audience will enjoy the exhibitions
and extreme tricks by skaters and the event also includes a top
rate music programme by Croatian and foreign DJs.
Lovorka Maga
August 20 - September 01 International Gathering of

Sculptors and Painters, Neujam on the Island of olta
Art buffs take note! This event is organized by Splits Kula
Gallery and it gathers some top rate artists from Croatia
and abroad. Artworks are presented and displayed at one of
the most beautiful and biggest bays on the island of olta.
August 24 27 Jazz Festival
One way to turn up the heat this summer is by attending the
annual jazz festival which takes place along the Split Riva, in
front of the British Consulate. Expect to see dozens of jazz
musicians from Croatia and abroad, and one of the picks from
the festival line-up includes British guitarist John Etheridge
who performs with his trio. He has a glowing reputation
throughout the jazz world and has spent years playing
with the iconic Stephane Grappelli, and the legendary jazzfusion group The Soft Machine. Other performances include
the Croatian Telefon Blues Band, Sinan Alimanovi (piano,
keyboards) and thats just the beginning. Riva(I-2/3)
September 12 19 Split Film Festival
Since 1996, this international festival of new film, video
and new media; promotes art of the moving picture whilst
supporting the author and research approach, especially
focusing on works made off the film. The program is divided
into a feature movie, short movie, video and new media
competition. www.splitfilmfestival.hr
October-December Splitgraphics IV- Splits Graphic

Biennial Splitgraphic IV will be held during the months of
October, November and December and across numerous
exhibition spaces all over town. A sequence of exhibitions
will represent graphic authors from Croatia and all over the
world. splitgraphic@gmail.com
Heritage clothing of the Baranja Croats

July 20 August 9 Ina Aljinovi Alfirevi- Boats, an
exhibition of acrylic paintings, Alliance francaise de
July 25 August 1 Eric Antoine, Jaka Babnik, Sergej
Vutu an exhibition of photography (part of the skate
culture festival Atlantis summer challenge 2009),
Conservatory Department Gallery, Porinova 2(I-1)
August 3 - 21 An exhibition of paintings by Joa Ciuh
(Slo), Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava bb(J-2) and
Milesi Palace
August 6 - 24 Joca Znidari: Slovenia, Photo Club
August 10 31 Patryk Sautour- From Hvar to Trogir, an
exhibition of photographs, Alliance francaise de Split,
Marmontova 3(I-2)
September 1 16 Narcisa Poljak- Lamps, an exhibition of
lamps, Alliance francaise de Split, Marmontova 3(I-2)
September 5 - 26 A retrospective exhibition by videoartist Nam June Paik, MKC Gallery, Savska bb(D/E-2)
September 11 - 24 Croatian News Photography 2009.
(Cro Press Photo), Photo Club Split, Marmontova 5(I-2)
September 17 October 5 Lenka Zavirek- The sea
and coastline, an exhibition of aquarelle paintings,
Alliance francaise de Split, Marmontova 3(I-2)
August 09 The 294th Sinj Alka

A traditional knights tournament of alkari, held in memory
of the Cetinska krajina people who fought against the Turks,
on August the 15th in 1715. A vivid contest which represents
a lucky mixture of riding a horse, and whilst galloping trying
to hit the alka (an iron ring put on a string at 332cm) with
a spear thats 295cm long. The Alka is divided into three
races: the first day Bara, the second day oja and the third
day Alka. The winners take home financial awards, special
placards and most of all prestige. Its a cultural spectacle.
Sinj, Alkars Race Road
Fashion these days comes and goes but when it comes to preserving your heritage
and culture, then the clothing of old always remains true and any change would cause
an upheaval. The Ethnographic Museum in
Split presents their collection of over 50 original
textile artefacts which represent a fine example
of clothing and accessories from the Podunavlje
Baranja region. Museum directors found value
in these hand-woven pieces of clothing and
collected them throughout different periods
of the first half of the 20th century. Devotees
of design, art, material and pattern in clothing
will come to appreciate such fine exponents of
traditional attire.
blog.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2009
11
12
Go GouRmEt
Expectations of Croatian cuisine are usually based around
the rich diversity of fresh fish, squid, lobster and shellfish
supplied by the Adriatic Sea. Unsurprisingly, this maritime
bounty forms the backbone of most restaurant menus.
However it would be a mistake to assume that this was
all that local culinary culture had to offer. Croatias coastal
regions have preserved a wealth of age-old regional
specialities, many of which are coming back into fashion
having for decades been looked down on as simple peasant
food.
Home-made pasta with a goulash-type sauce is one Adriatic
staple that is found in traditional konobe or inns all along
the coast. Twizzles of home-made pasta called fui are
still common in Istria and the northern Adriatic, while the
island of Krk has preserved the tradition of making urlice,
succulent macaroni-like twists made from flour-and-egg
dough. These traditional pastas are usually served with
some kind of lamb or beef stew, depending on which form
of livestock prevails. Dubrovnik and the nearby islands are
famous for porki makaruni (literally dirty macaroni)
a meaty goulash served with home-made macaroni and
dusted with grated hard cheese.
Go GouRmEt
Froggy flavours
The culinary repertoire of inland Dalmatia has always
reserved a special role for the frog (aba). Traditionally
considered a staple of working families, frogs legs are
now something of a delicacy, and urban foodies from Split
and Zagreb will make special trips to provincial konobe to
seek out the best frog recipes.
In the Cetina region (Cetinska Krajina) inland from
Split, frogs legs are usually fried in breadcrumbs or
boiled with potatoes. The provincial town of Trilj is a
popular gastronomic destination with two outstanding
restaurants, the Lovac (tel. 83 12 68) and the aporice in
the Sveti Mihovil hotel (tel. 83 17 70).
Other peasant staples which you will encounter up and

down the coast include bobii (bean stew with sweetcorn)
and manetra (a thick vegetable broth). In southern
Dalmatia, zelena manetra (green manetra) is made
my boiling up the bones of a home-cured cured pork leg
and adding potato and cabbage. Cabbage used to be a
staple vegetable throughout the region, and still forms the
key ingredient in arambae - cabbage leaves stuffed with
minced beef, pork and bacon which are a speciality of inland
Dalmatia, especially around the town of Sinj.
Each of the islands has preserved highly individual dishes
which cant always be found on the mainland. Gregada (a
mixture of fish stewed in white wine) is prepared by almost
all the restaurants in Hvar, but rarely crops up in places
which are only a short ferry ride away. The island of Vis is
well known for a unique savoury pie known as the pogaa,
which wraps a salty fish filling (usually anchovies or sardines)
inside light flaky pastry. These pogaas are sold in all the
bakeries on the island, although theres a crucial difference
in recipe depending on whether you buy it in the town of
Vis or the town of Komia (the Komia version comes with a
tangy dash of tomato).
Several islands are known for their spectacular sweets,

many of which can be bought in delicatessens throughout
the region. The Kvarner island of Rab is famous for the
Rapska torta, a baton-shaped cake made from marzipan
and rolled in sweet pastry. The inhabitants of Korula are
notoriously sweet-toothed, with locally-made krotule
(deep-fried pastry twists) and cukarine (crescent-shaped
biscuits flavoured with orange and lemon) making the
ideal tea-time treat. Paprenjaci from Korula and Hvar
are biscuits made from a blend of honey and pepper, not
dissimilar to gingerbread in taste. In Dubrovnik you should
definitely try roata, a syrup-topped custard similar to
crme caramel.
Anyone touring the Adriatic coast by car is sure to pass

roadside restaurants where whole lamb carcasses revolve
slowly over open fires in the car park. The resulting spitroast meat is delicious served with raw spring onion and
potatoes. Lamb from the Adriatic islands and the Dalmatian
hinterland is considered to have a particularly delicate taste,
thanks largely to the wide variety of aromatic herbs scoffed
by the beasts while grazing. Lamb from Pag is particularly
tasty, on account of the crystals of sea-salt deposited on
the sage-covered hillsides that serve as pasture.
Another highly individual local way of preparing lamb is to
cook the meat in a peka, a lidded vessel which is placed in
an open fire and then covered with embers to ensure a long
slow bake. On the Dalmatian islands the peka method is
also used to bake octopus, as well as the larger fish such as
zubatac (dentex) or grdobina (frogfish).
Chewbacca loves Split

Summer 2009
13
14
WHERE to stay
Go GouRmEt
and Wellness Centre are state of the art. With over 800
meters of beach frontage, it really is paradise. This sate of
the art new hotel complex is located 8 kilometers from the
centre of Split. Q381 rooms (364 doubles 490, 2 suites
1100, 13 Junior Suite 650, 2 Presidential Suite 2200).
POTHA6UFLGBKDChhhhh
Paradiso J-2, Andrieva bb, tel. 36 26 98/ 098 36
17 24, fax 36 27 35, michel@inet.hr, www.paradisomichel.hr. Paradiso is an apartment type hotel thats run
as a family business. Its easily located in the centre of
the city and amenities include a small restaurant, internet
connection plus additional services such as rent a limousine
with a driver or even cruise services. Rooms are equipped
with TV, DVD and video as well as a Jacuzzi or sauna if you
choose. The bus station and other means of transport are
close by. Q2 rooms (1 single 1200kn, 1 double 1200kn).
P6NDhhhhh
Olive oil
Olives have played a small but integral part in world history,

yet nobody ever really notices this. Think about it, winners
at the first Olympics were given an olive wreath to wear on
their heads, we extend an olive branch as a sign of peace,
and even Popeyes lanky girlfriend was named Olive Oil. The
signs are clear, if olives are good enough for athletic glory,
peace, and a belligerent sailor, theyre good enough for all
of us.
By now weve all heard that olive oil is an integral part of the
Mediterranean diet which medicine has associated with
sensible portions and slower, more enjoyable eating. Studies
have shown that those who partake in the Mediterranean
diet to have a remarkable variety of health benefits. Its even
suggested that olive oil decreases the rate of cardiovascular
disease and cancer. Rich in monounsaturated fatty acids,
it helps lower dangerous blood cholesterol and is rich in
vitamins and antioxidants. How about that? A combination
of olive oil and a diet rich in vegetables and fish is healthy,
delicious, and satisfying!
The Adriatic coast has a centuries old tradition of olive
harvesting and processing to reap the benefits of olive oil.
From the northern coast to Dubrovnik and all the islands
included, olive trees dot the landscape throughout the
Croatian Adriatic. Olive oil today is still as important a part of
the diet in Dalmatia as it always was. And in spite of some
minor technological advances the process is more or less
the same.
Olives are picked from the end of October to the end of the
Christmas period, and there are a few of methods of doing
so. Some pickers hack away at branches, collecting the
whole thing and plucking olives off one by one later. Other
growers use a rake to bring down the olives, or a more
painstaking route is to pick individual goodies straight from
the tree. The results are collected in a box called a Takala,
which the pickers later sift through to sort out the fruit from
the twigs and leaves.
After the harvest comes the pressing part. Literally. Back in
the day, the olives would be pressed on a stone wheel turned
either by hand or maybe beast of burden. The olives would

be set on a mat and put under the wheel, squeezing them
to a pulp as all the juicy goodness ran out of them. Today,
most olives are no longer pressed by stone wheel, theyre
drained using hydraulic presses. The rest of the process is
really no different from the old school days. The first press
yields the extra virgin oil, that is the oil of the highest quality,
which must be made from green olives that are not too ripe.
Subsequent pressing of the pulp will get you more olive oil,
but the quality isnt quite the same as the first.
Some homes on the coast still use a stone basin to hold
the oil, but usually its placed in bottles (glass is the best for
the oil) and stored for the coming winter and summer. Once
bottled, the oil has a lifespan of about 2 years. A lot of locals
in Dalmatia sell their oil to tourists, and its good stuff. The oil
should have a greenish tint and strong aroma. A liter usually
costs about 15 Euro, but haggling cant hurt. Get there and
buy some home made oil, all of you!
This text has been created to acquaint the public with the
olive growing tradition - it is not a scientific or expert text.
Upmarket
Cream of the crop

Atrium J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a, tel. 20 00 00, fax 20
01 00, info@hotel-atrium.hr, www.hotel-atrium.hr. Youre

not in the middle of the action if youre staying here, but the entire
hotel is modern, luxurious, comfortable and nicely equipped,
with pool, jacuzzi and free Internet. All the things you want and
expect from an upscale hotel are here. Q101 rooms (99 singles
130 - 185, 99 doubles 150 - 305, 2 apartments 460 - 550).
PHA6UFGKDChhhhh
Le Meridien Lav Grljevaka 2a, Podstrana, tel. 50 05
00, fax 50 06 09, info_split@lemeridien.com, www.
lemeridien.com/split. Brand new and exclusive with
381 guest rooms and suites. Set on a marina promenade;
expect to be dazzled by the multitude of restaurants, bars,
cafes, plus casino, sports bar and nightclub. Furthermore,
the recreational complex and the astounding Diocletian Spa
Symbol key
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant
C Swimming pool
D Sauna
6 Animal friendly
Art D-2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. 30 23 02, fax 30 23 00,

prodaja@arthotel.hr, www.arthotel.hr. If youre a business
traveler with access to a car, this cube-shaped, modern hotel
is a solid choice. Without a car, youll be a fifteen minute walk
from the old town but either way, youll have an exceedingly
comfortable and stylishly-decorated room with Internet access
included in the price. Q36 rooms (36 singles 905kn, 36
doubles 1197kn). PHAULGBKhhhh
Dalmina E-1, Kopilica 5, tel. 35 00 00/ 35 00 05, fax 35
00 01, info@hoteldalmina.hr, www.hoteldalmina.hr. The
location is a bit drab and off the beaten path, but everything
you need for a decent stay is on offer: Internet, free on-site
parking, complimentary breakfast and more. Q52 rooms
(30 singles 117, 30 doubles 138, 18 Twin Rooms 138, 4
Family Rooms 186). PHAULGK hhhh
Globo D-2, Lovretska 18, tel. 48 11 11, fax 48 11 18,
info@hotelglobo.com, www.hotelgobo.com. A four-star
hotel that lives up to its classification, Globo has a relatively
decent location, exceedingly helpful and cheerful staff and a
breakfast that usually doesnt fail to satisfy. Q38 rooms (33
singles 113 - 139, 33 doubles 124 - 178, 5 triples 146
- 217). PHA6LNKhhhh
Marmont I-2, Zadarska 13, tel. 30 80 60/ 091 629 01
99, fax 30 80 70, booking@marmonthotel.com, www.
marmonthotel.com. Boutique hotel in an old stone house with
imaginative modern add-ons (the breakfast room is an attractive triangular wedge). All rooms have parquet floors, creamy
colour schemes and views of neighbouring, green-shuttered
buildings. There is a reasonable amount of desk space, big TVs,
and wifi coverage throughout. The classy modern bathrooms
come with either bath or shower cubicle - although even the
latter are pretty spacious and seem to have been made with
splashing around as a twosome in mind. Q22 rooms (21
singles 125 - 178, 21 doubles 198 - 250, 1 Presidential
Suite 1165 - 1805). PALGhhhh
More F-3, etalite pape Ivana Pavla ll 27/l, tel. 46
21 12, fax 46 22 01, hotelmore@hotelmore.hr, www.
hotelmore.hr. Hotel More is actually a bed and breakfast
that operates in an interesting cascade-style building on
the waterfront, a short walk from the old town. The vibe is
calm, comfortable and relaxed. Q9 rooms (8 singles 95,
8 doubles 116, 1 apartment 120 - 150). PAULG
hhhh
Summer 2009
15
16
WHERE to stay
Park D-3, Hatzeov perivoj 3, tel. 40 64 00/ 40 64 06, fax
40 64 01, sales@hotelpark-split.hr, www.hotelpark-split.

hr. For an upscale establishment with over fifty rooms, the
amenities have made themselves relatively scarce through
the eighty-seven years of this hotels life. Theres no pool, the
rooms bathrooms are small and service can be a bit slow.
The location close to Bavice and the quiet atmosphere
make up for these small problems though, and the outdoor
terrace, accented by gently swaying palm trees, is hard not
to love. Q57 rooms (21 singles 131 - 145, 33 doubles
188 - 206, 2 apartments 359, 1 Presidential Suite 455).
PHA6ULGBKDhhhh
President D-2, Starevieva 1, tel. 30 52 22, fax 30 52
25, hotel.president@st.t-com.hr, www.hotelpresident.
hr. Just outside the walls of the old town near the Croatian
National Theatre stands the President, a comfy hotel with
stylish decorations in earthy, natural tones. Double rooms
can be a bit small but if you need more space to stretch
out, the deluxe double should do the trick. Q73 rooms (8
singles 127 - 205, 55 doubles 127 - 233, 1 Junior Suite
253, 9 Presidential Suite 368). PHA6ULGBK
hhhh
Vestibul Palace J-2, Iza Vestibula 4, tel. 32 93 29, fax
32 93 33, info@vestibulpalace.com, www.vestibulpalace.com. The rooms here are a hip homage to ancient and
modern, with rooms decorated in black, brown and beige,
contrasted in suites 3 and 6 with the original Roman walls
that stand exposed. The modernity and hipness are never
taken far enough to make the hotel uncomfortable, however,
making this the most sought-after and exclusive name for
Splits visiting elite. Q7 rooms (2 singles 147 - 198, 3
doubles 175 - 272, 1 Luxury Suite 272 - 405, 1 Junior Suite
200 - 315). PALGBKhhhh
Old-School charm
Bellevue I-2, Bana Josipa Jelaia 2, tel. 34 56 44,
fax 36 23 83, rezervacije@hotel-bellevue-split.hr, www.
hotel-bellevue-split.hr. Todays hotel Bellevue is located
on the Riva next to the church of Saint Francis and on the
south-west wing of the Prokurative. It was once a former
hotel used to offer curing baths to guests whilst its caf
was a meeting place for rich clientele. In 1906, it received
its name Grand hotel Bellevue, and was later renovated in
1934. Famous writers such as Anatole France, George Bernard Shaw and Agatha Christie have all lodged here. Todays
hotel offers comfortable accommodation and includes the
Notromo restaurant. Q50 rooms (13 singles 670kn, 34
doubles 923kn, 3 triples 1180kn, 3 apartments 1240kn).
PALGBK hh
Mid-range
Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel.
34 00 00, fax 34 00 08, info@hotel-adriana.hr, www.
hotel-adriana.hr. Perhaps the proprietors rely a bit too much
on their Riva-front location to sell their hotel, as some of the
rooms are on the small side and the service has been known
to be a bit curt. All in all, this one is more than adequate for
a few nights and the location is nearly perfect. Q15 rooms
(2 singles 700kn, 11 doubles 950kn, 2 apartments 1200
- 1400kn). PABK hhh
As E-1, Kopilica 8a, tel. 36 61 00, fax 36 61 11, info@
hotelas-split.com, www.hotelas-split.com. If youre willing to
travel a bit to get to it, this is another solid choice on the outskirts
of town. A modern building with the expected additions to make
for a pleasant and comfortable stay. Q33 rooms (33 singles
600kn, 33 doubles 800kn). PALKhhh
Consul D-2, Transka 34, tel. 34 01 30, fax 34 01
33, hotel-consul@st.t-com.hr, www.hotel-consul.net.
Perhaps a bit pricey considering the services on offer, but
clean, comfortable and friendly nonetheless. The hotel
appears to have been converted from an old apartment
building and is situated in a quiet, residential area fifteen
minutes walk from the center. Q 19 rooms (4 singles
90, 9 doubles 130, 2 triples 150, 4 apartments 205).
PHALGBK hhhh
Kastel I-2, Mihovilova irina 5, tel./fax 34 39 12, tel.
091 120 03 48, info@kastelsplit.com, www.kastelsplit.
com. One of the best values for small guesthouses in the city,
this tall building sits at the southwest corner of the palace
and is operated professionally and efficiently. Q9 rooms
(1 single 340 - 560kn, 4 doubles 490 - 750kn, 1 triple 550
- 900kn, 1 apartment 560 - 910kn, 2 Family Rooms 760
- 1170kn). PAG hhh
Peristil J-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene 5, tel. 32 90 70,
fax 32 90 88, hotel.peristil@email.t-com.hr, www.
hotelperistil.com. Given the excellent furnishings, superior
location and lovely view from the terrace on the roof, you
might be pleasantly surprised to discover that the cost for
a night at the Peristil isnt anywhere in the neighbourhood
of an arm and a leg. An added bonus is the excellent Tifani
Restaurant on the ground floor, where chefs whip up food
in open kitchens. Q12 rooms (3 singles 135, 9 doubles
162). PA6BK hhh
Budget
Dujam E-2, Velebitska 27, tel. 53 80 25/ 53 80 27,
fax 53 72 58, info@hoteldujam.com, www.hoteldujam.
com. Saint Dujam (a.k.a. Doimus, Domnio and Domnius),
patron saint of Split, moonlights as the patron saint of budget
travelers by lending his endorsement to this hotel, located
about a fifteen minute walk from the center. Those keeping
a cautious eye on their cash flow will appreciate the clean
rooms and functional furnishings. Q35 rooms (33 singles
58 - 71, 33 doubles 73 - 96, 2 apartments 86 - 120).
PHALGK hh
Slavija I-2, Buvinina 2, tel. 32 38 40, fax 32 38 68,
info@hotelslavija.com, www.hotelslavija.com. Slavijas
stellar location in the palace and recent renovations are its
big draws, but the location can also be a thorn in the side
of those who treasure their beauty sleep. The loudest and
rowdiest bars in the old town are located nearby. Q25
rooms (2 singles 112, 16 doubles 140 - 176, 4 triples
167, 2 4-bedded room 193, 1 5-bedded room 210).
PA6LG hhh
Hostel
Silver Central I-2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. 49 08 05,
silver.central@hotmail.com, www.silvercentralhostel.
com. Bright, high-ceilinged apartment with a welcoming
reception/common room and a trio of 6- to 8-bed dorms, each
with its own internet terminal. Q4 rooms (3 6-bed dorms
150 - 180kn, 1 8-bed dorm 150 - 180kn). PJN
18
WHERE to stay
The Inhabitants of Split
To the outside visitor, the citizens of Split referred to
as Spliani are one distinct group of people. There are,
however, a few distinct groups that exist in the social
landscape. The first, and oldest, group of people are
the fetivi, the people descended from Splits old urban
families. They are characterized, stereotypically, by
their unique way of talking, which is considered to be
very fast. Splits fetivi are complimented by the boduli,
people originally from the islands of the Adriatic who,
again stereotypically, have a reputation for frugality,
quick thinking and keeping to themselves to themselves.
Relatively recently, these two groups were joined by
the vlaji, who migrated to Split from other parts of
Dalmatia and now populate the high-rises that encircle
the city. The vlaji are the rough and tumble survivors,
accustomed to hardships and the rougher side of life.
The distinctions between these groups, however, are
fading fast, especially considering the arrival of the
latest social group to emerge in Split, namely an influx of
immigrants from Hercegovina who came seeking a new
life in Croatias second largest city.
Silver Gate D-3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. 32 28 57/ 098 46 38
19, info@silvergatehostel.com, www.silvergatehostel.

com. Run by the same team as Silver Central and offering
pretty much the same deal, the hostel occupies an atmospheric apartment building with fine views of the Palaces
eastern gate. Q4 rooms (3 6-bed dorms 150 - 180kn, 1
8-bed dorm 150 - 180kn). PNW
Split Hostel Booze and Snooze I-2, Narodni trg 8, tel.
34 27 87, info@splithostel.com, www.splithostel.com.
Right round the corner from the medieval main square, this is
a cute and cosy hostel run by a helpful and informative team.
Soon to be opening a new annexe a couple of streets away,
complete with basement bar. Q4 rooms (1 5-bedded dorm
20 - 25, 3 6-bedded dorms 20 - 25). PGW
Private accomodation
Jupiter J-2, Graboveva irina 1, tel./fax 34 48 01,
mail@hotel-jupiter.info, www.hotel-jupiter.info/hr. A
family-run establishment, Jupiter can boast a superb location in the middle of Splits night-life area and offers rooms
that, while clean and comfortable, arent exactly the most
luxurious in town. That being said, theyre not the most
expensive, either. Q4 rooms (3 doubles 250kn, 1 triple
250kn). PJN
Out of town
Adria Franje Tumana bb, Katel tafili, tel. 79 81 40,
fax 79 81 50, info@hotel-adria.hr, www.hotel-adria.hr. If

waking up for that 6:00am flight intimidates you a bit, Hotel
Adrias location can afford you a few extra winks the night
before and has comfortable rooms and a pleasant staff to
boot. If the sound of planes taking off and landing distracts
you, close the windows, crank up the AC and the noise virtually
disappears. Q11 rooms (2 singles 51 - 61, 5 doubles 72
- 86, 4 triples 98 - 117). PALBKhhh
WHERE to stay
Waterman Svpetrvs Resort Put Vele Luke 4, Supetar,
Reserve a room at
tel. 63 11 33, fax 63 13 44, sales@watermanresorts.

com, www.watermanresorts.com. Kaktus, Villa Diana, Villa
Maria, Meridien, Agava, Salvia and Olea have a lot of things
going for it that might make it an irresistible choice while on
Bra. Given the fact that its part of a consortium of hotels,
there are a load of services on-site that other hotels in the
same price range simply cannot offer, like indoor and outdoor
pools, an abundance of tennis courts and sports areas and
a fitness and wellness center. It also happens to be located
right on the beach. Q440 rooms (78 singles 100 - 131, 78
doubles 64 - 85, 277 triples 64 - 85, 63 suites 92 - 116,
22 Junior Suite 73 - 94). PTHAUFLGBKDC
hhhh
Paike Sinjska bb, Trogir, tel. 88 51 85, 88 16 29/
091 484 84 34, fax 79 77 29, info@hotelpasike.com,

www.hotelpasike.com. While the amenities and services
are thoroughly modern, the decor and the rich wood furniture
is thoroughly 19th and early 20th century, making this one of
most the intriguing hotel choices in the area. Q14 rooms
(2 singles 600kn, 11 doubles 800kn, 1 apartment 1200kn).
PAGBK hhh
San Antonio Grljevaka 30, Podstrana, tel. 33 61 11,
fax 33 53 48, info@hotel-sanantonio.com, www.hotelsanantonio.com. The words San Antonio cull up images
of Texas, but Texas this is not. This particular San Antonio is
a four-star hotel right on the beach in Podstrana, 8km from
the old town. High-speed Internet is available, along with a
whole list of other amenities. Ideal for long sessions of quiet
chilling on the beach. Q23 rooms (15 singles 136 - 154, 15
doubles 156 - 199, 15 triples 198 - 234, 6 suites 220 312, 2 Penthouse 178 - 269). PHAFLGBKDC
hhhh
Hvar
Croatia Majerovia b.b., Hvar, tel. 74 24 00, fax 74

17 07, croatia-hvar@st.t-com.hr, www.hotelcroatia.net.
Ah, tranquil surroundings. Peace and quiet! Hotel Croatia has
a laid-back atmosphere that you can enjoy from your seafront
balcony or on the pebble beach the hotel has access to. This is
a prime choice for travelers looking to relax and soak up some
rays. Q28 rooms (22 doubles 34 - 80, 6 Family Rooms 34
- 80). PJAFLGBK hhh
Riva Riva bb, Hvar, tel. 75 01 00/ 75 07 50, fax 75
01 01, reservations@suncanihvar.com, riva-reception@
suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar.com. Ideal for single
travelers, party people or friends on a getaway together,
the Riva is a boutique hotel, modern and chic through and
through. Unfortunately, the rooms are reminiscient of seats on
an economy class flight: slightly cramped and uncomfortable
after long periods of time. There are even, inexplicably, seethrough glass windows on the toilet and shower. Come mentally
prepared for these details, and youll have a blast rocking out in
the bar on the ground floor or relaxing on the patio facing the
harbour. Q56 rooms (48 doubles 199 - 309, 8 suites 339
- 515). PA6UFLGKDChhhh
The Palace Trg Sv. Stjepana, Hvar, tel. 74 19 66/ 90
69 46, fax 74 24 20, reservations@suncanihvar.com,
palace@suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar.com. If you
were to build a palace of your own, you just might choose to
build it on the exact space that this hotel occupies, right on
the harbour on the sunny island of Hvar. You probably wouldnt,
however, choose to deck it out with quite the same furniture
or decorations. If you choose to brave the dated interior,
make sure you ask for a room with a view. Q73 rooms (4
singles 120, 58 doubles 139 - 216, 11 suites 238 - 271).
PHA6GKDChhh
Islands
Bra
Aparthotel Perla Put Vele luke 53, Supetar, tel. 75 55
30/ 091 335 29 49, fax 75 55 47, info@perlacroatia.com,
www.brackaperla.com. Apartment! Hotel! When their powers
combine, they form: Aparthotel Perla! But seriously folks! This
is an absolutely genius choice if youre looking for a touch of
class during your stay in Supetar. Eleven fully furnished rooms
decked out with chic Italian furniture look out onto a lovely pool
and deck area and, from the terrace, the sea and the islands
stretch out into the horizon. Plus, theres a sauna and gym onsite. Q11 rooms (3 doubles 1260 - 1840kn, 8 suites 1430
- 2390Kn). PAFGDChhhh
Bluesun Hotel Borak Braka cesta 13, Bol, tel. 30
62 02, fax 30 62 15, borak@bluesunhotels.com, www.
bluesunhotels.com. The lush surroundings and whopping 150
square meter pool are eye-catching. Not to mention the 184
modern guestrooms all decked with a balcony and essentials.
Buffet meals are served throughout the day. Numerous
complimentary specials are provided to all guests. Positioned
50 meters from the beach and close to town centre. Q184
rooms (133 doubles 38 - 102, 3 suites 215 - 395, 48 Family
Rooms 53 - 139). PTAFLGKChhhh
Palaa Dekovi Puia, Bra, tel. 77 82 40, fax 77
82 56, h.palaca-deskovic@st.t-com.hr, www.palacadeskovic.com. This restored Renaissance palace from 1467
is a registered cultural monument. It has been transformed
into a luxurious four-star hotel. All rooms are fully equipped and
guests can indulge in the hotel restaurant or aperitif bar. The
menu is crammed with local cuisine and home-brewed wine.
Q13 rooms (7 Standard Room 124 - 206, 6 Junior Suite
150 - 248). PALGBKhhhh
Pastura Postira, tel. 74 00 00/ 63 21 00, fax 63 21
09, pastura@st.t-com.hr, www.hotelpastura.hr. Its
perfectly located on the promenade with ocean views from the
restaurant or aperitif bar. Amenities include an outdoor fresh
water pool, fitness hall, Jacuzzi, sauna and massage. Modern
and set in peaceful surroundings. Q46 rooms (31 doubles
37 - 82, 15 suites 41 - 86). PAUFLGBKDC
hhhh
Vis
Bievo Ribarska 72, Komia, tel. 71 32 79/ 71 31 44,
fax 71 30 98, info@hotel-bisevo.com, www.hotel-bisevo.

com. Probably the best bet in tranquil Komia, this functional
and comfortable hotel comes with some handy pluses like
satellite TV and a balcony for every room. Q130 rooms (2
singles 310 - 480kn, 123 doubles 240 - 370kn, 5 apartments
300 - 463kn). PTAFLBKD hh
Issa etalite A.Zanelle 5, Vis, tel. 71 11 24, fax 71 17
40, hotel-issa@vis-hoteli.hr, www.vis-hoteli.hr. While it is
located just a stones throw from the center of Vis Town, the
hotel is still surrounded by plenty of green and lots of clear,
sparkling water. Every room has a balcony looking out onto the
bay. Q125 rooms (125 singles 310 - 575kn, 125 doubles 235
- 460kn). PALGBK hhh
Summer 2009
19
20
REstauRants
REstauRants
Symbol key
Split offers you a chance to taste various specialties such

as fish on the grill, cooked lamb, brudet As you search
on where to dine, the category titled Traditional restaurants
greatly encompasses a range of Croatian restaurants with
rich, traditional, old homemade meals. Restaurants in other
categories also offer a smorgasbord of different menus
including Mediterranean. So whilst you enjoy your stay, you
have every possibility to try something outstandingly new
with various combinations ranging from meat, fish and right
through to vegetarian meals.
International
Aci Grao C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 39 85 60, info@
adriatic-graso.com, www.adriatic-graso.com. With a view
of the ACI marina from its dining room, the Aci Grao has an
extravagant inner charm about it. Try any of the grilled fish
dishes or even one of the risottos. Dine with fine wine as you
linger over the views and visit the cigar bar. Parking is free
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 110kn). PAGB
Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog preporoda 8, tel. 34 00
00, info@adriana.hr, www.hotel-adriana.hr. This sprawling
restaurant on the Riva always attracts a crowd. Why? Its
prime location for people watching and the food is top notch.
Try the seafood risotto or any grilled meat or fish dish. There
is live music on weekends and sometimes on weekdays
come summer time. Fairly priced! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
(60 - 160kn). PAGB
Bistro Black Cat K-3, egvieva 1, tel. 49 02 84.
Providing culinary diversity at a moderate price, Black Cat
is a unique institution in Split, and is gathering a growing
army of devoted regulars as a result. The repertoire runs
from cooked English breakfasts to lunchtime sandwiches
and salads, and a main-course menu that embraces Thai,
Indonesian, Mediterranean and veggie options. A secluded
outdoor terrace and affordable cocktails make it a good place
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
O Casino
6 Animal friendly
R Internet
B Outside seatingde
to drink as well. Whatever you order, try and leave room for the
outstanding desserts, which are made in-house rather than
ordered from the mainstream bakeries. The more you travel
around the Adriatic, the more youll realise what a valuable
culinary haven the Black Cat actually is. QOpen 08:00
- 23:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 60kn). PAB
Boban E-3, Hektorovieva 49, tel. 54 33 00, info@
restaurant-boban.com, www.restaurant-boban.com. The
indoor dining room and outdoor terrace are beautiful settings
for the seafood and grilled meats prepared in traditional
Croatian flair. The wine list includes only the best with labels
such as Grgi, Zlatan otok and Dinga. This place does it
all, and does it well. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 24:00. (50 - 100kn). PAGB
Cardo J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a (Hotel Atrium, 1 st
floor), tel. 20 01 32, www.hotel-atrium.hr. A touch of
class with an elegant and modern dcor backed by some
cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine that
encompasses all of the Mediterraneans charm and a wine
list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the wallet
and is sure to please. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn).
PAGB
Duje D-2, Ulica slobode 16a, tel. 54 81 00, mail@
restoranduje.hr, www.restoranduje.hr. This restaurant
is situated in Gripe close to the sports recreation centre Koteks. Its a classic family eatery with a predominately Italian
cuisine and a solid choice of wines. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (65 - 400kn). PAGB
Il posto E-3, Put Firula 47, tel. 38 92 88/ 091 506
98 63, www.ilposto.hr. Italian pasta, perhaps paticada
(stewed beef cooked in a special sauce) or a number of
other meals with homemade bread, fine service and pleasant
interior awaits you in Zenta bay. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (40
- 90kn). PAB
Le Monde H-1, Plinarska 6, tel. 32 22 65/ 38 88 83,
www.lemonde.hr. Dine with a touch of class as this slightly
hidden restaurant in the rambling boasts a trim interior and a
choice of terraces. Dalmatian fish and meat specialties are
on the menu along with local wine. Its tucked away in the
busy Varo district but worth the visit. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(50 - 180kn). PAB
Pizza
Theirs is of the thin-crust variety, and the centre will more
closely resemble a soup if you dont give it time to cool.
Theres no shortage of variations on the theme, and a bonus
for the economically challenge is the relatively miniscule
price of a pie, 25 - 45kn. Key to toppings: fereroni (peppers),
fruiti de mare (seafood), gljiva (mushrooms), maslina (olive),
rajica / pamidor (tomato), sir (cheese), slanina (bacon),
unka (ham).
Galija I-2, Kamila Tonia 12, tel. 34 79 32. The interior
curves around in a U shape with the bar near the entrance. You
may get a little confused looking for the bathroom but thats
all part of the fun. They serve a wide selection of pizzas and
they come in not big, but massive portions QOpen 09:00
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (27 - 90kn). PA
Gut J-1, Slavieva 1, tel. 48 63 33. Youve got to make a
bit of an effort to get here for its right at the top of Marmontova
street. Pass by the department store Prima Grad and take
the street on the right. After 50 metres, turn left and take
an immediate left again. There youll find Gust, a traditional
pizzeria with delectable wood-fire oven pizzas. QOpen 09:00
- 23:00. Closed Sun. (34 - 49kn). PA
Maslina I-2, Teutina 1A, tel. 31 49 88. A cute little restaurant
thats a tad hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that
are off Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are
the prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas not
to mention the beefsteak rolled in pancetta. Q Open 10:00
- 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (33 - 90kn). PB
Velo misto No 1 H-1, Matoeva 63, tel. 38 47 77. There
are 2 Velo Mistos, one located in Spinut near the tunnel which
offers a decent wood-fire pizza and the other Velo Misto is
located in Zenta (etalite Kalafata bb) with a huge terrace
that overlooks the sea. Velo Misto by the way, was the name
of a popular tv series with performances by top Split theatre
thespians. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
(30 - 130kn). PA
Fast food
Art&oka I-2, Obrov 2, tel. 34 60 03, articok@
hotmail.com. Small bu t ver y tast y selection of
sandwiches, with tuna salad, roast vegetables, pesto
and other Mediterranean flavours predominating. Also
serves salads and take-out coffees. Sandwiches in
the 18-20kn range. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun.
Fab Food I-2, Narodni trg 12, tel. 33 25 25. Hole
in the wall snack-stop right on the main square, offering
tortilla wraps with a range of fillings, plus burgers, salads,
sandwiches and breakfast fare such as filled croissants
or yoghurt with muesli. No seating, but if youre drinking
coffee at the next-door caf you can bring your fab-food
order with you. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
Kantun Paulina I-2, Matoia 1, tel. 39 59 73.
Some situations just call for a nice serving of evapi,
namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this
little stand on the corner serves them up right. Theres
no seating available but you can park it on a bench at the
street and watch the night-time drama unfold. QOpen
08:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.
Mc Donalds D-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Center Joker),
tel. 49 33 20. It is there. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun
10:00 - 23:00. PAB
Rizzo I-2, Tonieva 4, tel. 34 83 49/ 091 574 07
64. Another player in the local snack game along with
Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made on
freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a mid-day
or midnight snack. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00
- 24:00.
Zlatna vrata J-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. 34 50 15.
Located inside the palace walls, this restaurant takes the

name The Golden Gate and is surrounded by a lovely
courtyard that brings much needed shade come summer.
The wood fire oven produces great thin based pizzas. The
salads are significantly filling. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 50kn). PNB
Seafood
umica E-3, Put Firula 6, tel. 38 98 97/ 38 98 95. The
view from this restaurant is directed toward the Bra canal and
in the shade of the terrace you are sure to enjoy the seafood
specialties with a choice of wines. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(60 - 280kn). PALGB
Bota are D-3, Bavice bb, tel. 48 86 48, www.botasare.hr. Situated right above the Bavice Beach and packed
with a fresh seafood menu; this eatery is extremely popular
amongst locals and tourists. A refined interior and extensive
wine list provide the finishing touches. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
(30 - 600kn). PAB
Jugo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 39 89 00/ 098 79 99
83, jskare@globalnet.hr, www.restaurant-jugo.com. Fish
dominates the menu and you can get it cooked to your liking. Dine
in or venture out onto the terrace with magical views of the old
town. The yachts moored in the ACI Marina are only a stepping
stone away making the walk on the Riva ever so pleasant.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn). PAB
Notromo I-2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. 091 405 66 66,
info@restoran-nostromo.hr, www.restoran-nostromo.
hr. Heres your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of
seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Notromo is
known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area and
youll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here.
The paintings hanging on the walls add to the ambience
- some of them are by notable Croatian artists. QOpen
06:00 - 24:00. PN
Posejdon I-2, Adamova 5, tel. 31 72 49. Konobe are tiny
type bar/restaurants that offer local Dalmatian specialties,
and this is of no exception with an assortment of meat, fresh
fish and pasta dishes on offer. Its located at the very entrance
into the Diocletian Palace; when you pass Ispod ure simply
turn right. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PAB
Stelon E-3, Gospinica 3, tel. 48 92 00. For the complete
experience - the menu is loosely Mediterranean with plenty
to choose, it overlooks the beach, contemporary dcor
blends with the relaxed ambience. Reservations are a safe
option during summer. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 01:00. PAB
Summer 2009
21
22
REstauRants
REstauRants
Luica C-2, Luica 7, tel. 38 67 63/ 098 85 41 10.
Traditional
perun H-2, perun 3, tel. 34 69 99. A cute buffet
restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the Split

Riviera. This small cosy eatery offers refined local cuisine with
an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated with antiques
and modern oil paintings. The daily special is often a good bet.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 130kn). PAB
Bekan E-3, Ivana pl. Zajca 4, tel. 38 94 00/ 099 389
40 01. Dine with a view in a restaurant which prides itself on
fine Dalmatian cuisine. Reserve a window seat overlooking
the Zenta Marina or venture onto the terrace and gaze across
to the Dalmatian islands. The fish platter ala Bekan is just
one of the many delights on offer. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(30 - 300kn). PAGB
Enoteka Terra D-3, Prilaz Brae Kaliterna 6, tel. 31 48
01, konoba.terra@ambo.hr. This cellar wine bar located in
Bavice stows authentic Croatian vino that simply delights
whilst nibbling on tapas Croatian style. The varied menu
features the likes of spicy Slavonian sausage, prosciutto as
well as dishes infused with spicy Istrian truffles. QOpen 10:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (60 - 150kn). PA
Fife H-3, Trumbieva obala 11, tel. 34 52 23/ 091
737 31 12, polujic@net.hr, www.buffet-fife.com. Long
regarded as something of a shrine to traditional Dalmatian
home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular meeting point
for hungry local journalists, writers and actors. Expect big,
tasty and inexpensive portions of fish stew, paticada (beef
cooked in a wine stew and served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe,
goulash, fried fish and stuffed paprika. Fifes only drawback
is its popularity with tourist guide-book writers, who have

praised the place so much in recent years that it can be
difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season.
QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. (10 - 50kn). PNB
Hvaranin H-2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. 091 767 58 91.
To experience Dalmatia you simple have to dine in a konoba,
small old stone buildings where fisherman once spoke tales
and cooked their catch. This is no exception as fresh fish
are aplenty here. The muscles and white risotto deserve a
mention plus a wide range of home made rakija. Q Open
12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 300kn). PN
Kibela J-2, Kraj sv.Ivana 5, tel. 34 62 05/ 091 404 90
40. A small, homey restaurant hidden away in the palace
complex, Buffet Kibela has a satisfying list of meat and
seafood choices on its daily menu, prepared fresh every
day. The food is the perfect size for lunch and is brought out
virtually instantaneously by the polite and attentive staff.
Thumbs up. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (35 - 80kn). PNB
Kod Joze J-2, Sredmanuka 4, tel. 34 73 97, kod.joze@
gmail.com. Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with
absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to
make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian woman
from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is done up
with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and
the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with
shells is a knock out. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 24:00. (50 - 400kn). PAB
Konoba Varo H-2, Ban Mladenova 7, tel. 39 61 38,
konobavaros@konobavaros.com. Its situated in a small alley
next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative
fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary but the food is sure
to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal
hot from the peka (grill); or try the blue fish or octopus. Its a
tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is endless.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (30 - 100kn). PA
Dining in Luica is quite fine. The prices are fair, the pizza
aint bad, actually its quite good. Its located at the Spinut
Marina, on the northern side of Mt Marjan. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00. (50 - 90kn). PALB
Otarija u Viakovi D-3, Prilaz brae Kaliterna 8, tel.
48 91 06/ 091 565 46 27. With a fine location just steps
away from Bavice beach, this is a family-run bistro serving
up some of the best traditional fare in the city. Dalmatian
favourites such as tripe, sauced meatballs, bean stew and
salty cod fill out an extensive menu, although you can opt for
fancy fish and lobster dishes if youre in the mood to splash
out. The intimate upstairs room is perfect for a meal with
a significant other, while the roomy basement provides the
space you need for a bigger gathering. Checked tablecloths,
ancient kitchen utensils and black-and-white photos of old
Split help to keep things cosy wherever you choose to sit.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 360kn). PAB
Pimpinella E-3, Spinieva 2a, tel. 38 96 06/ 091
121 30 15, pimpinella@net.hr. A cosy small konoba on
Zenta which is part of the family house with a menu that
includes grilled meals, paticada, shank, roast lamb with
vegetables and much more. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (45
- 70kn). PAB
Zlatna ribica I-2, Kraj Sv. Marije 8, tel. 34 87 10/

091 767 71 69. Unpretentious little bar located by the fish
market serving scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals
and savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and
camera and you will fit right in. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00, Sat,
Sun 06:00 - 14:00. (40 - 70kn). PN
Vegetarian
Makrovega I-2, Letina 2, tel. 39 44 40, info@
makrovega.hr, www.makrovega.hr. If youre in need of
cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or vetchyoull find them all
here, along with freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices.
The veggies are home grown or organic. QOpen 09:00 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (55 - 65kn). PNG
Summer 2009
23
24
caFs
As you wind your way through the streets and alleys of Splits
old town, youll encounter more cafes and bars than you can
shake a stick at and the summer season will offer you no end
of folks to browse impertinently, be they tourist or local.
Bifora E-2, Bernardinova 5. Decorated with scenes

from someones psychedelic experience or a particularly
bizarre fairy tale, Bifora has interesting clientele, a quirky,
relaxed vibe and attracts a large number of revelers in the
summer months. Definitely a much-frequented stop for Split
party-goers. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.
PJB
Caffe Gallery Ave I-2, Rodrigina 4, tel. 32 26 27/ 091
527 96 63. The avenue has a soulful vibe so, come in for a
well-served and welcoming coffee accompanied with a fresh
croissant within this caf - art exhibit space. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PNGB
Favola I-2, Trg brae Radi 1 (Voni trg), tel. 34 48
48. A much needed coffee and newspapers? Heres a great
opportunity to sit back and take pleasure in this caf along
Fruit Square (Voni trg). In Dalmatia theyd state its location
as the second row by the sea, meaning its not coffee on the
waterfront but directly behind it. Its name translates to the
Italian fairytale and we must absurdly state that the female
toilet is unusually narrow! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 01:00. PGB
Gaga I-2, Iza Loe 5, tel. 34 82 57. In the shade just behind
Loa (the gallery area in the main square - Pjaca) this caf
has its own square where a daily coffee can be a refreshing
treat amongst the sing-song chatter of the interesting local
folk. Q Open 07:00-01:00, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 07:00
- 14:00 and 20:00 - 01:00. PNGB
Kalafati E-3, Cvjetna 1, tel. 38 91 01/ 091 206 11
51, 098 941 98 86. If you wish to take a stroll outside of the
old town, a good choice is to Zenta bay, where the afternoon
hours are perfect for lazying around with a coffee and friendly
company. With a view of the bay, boats, the smell of the sea,
its a real treat. Be sure to take a stroll around the whole
picturesque bay all the way to the popular Bavice beach.
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PAGB
niGHtliFE
Kavana Procaffe C-2, pinutska 67, tel. 38 43 23,
info@procaffe.hr, www.procaffe.hr. A superb place for

reading the daily paper and sipping a coffee with an outlook
toward the mainland and one of the many Katela towns
of Split and the Kozjak mountain. In lovely weather, theres
nothing better than sitting here and watching the passing
sailboats and rowboats. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PNGB
Lvxor J-2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. 34 10 82, ljuba.rogulj@
kavanalvxor.com, www.kavanalvxor.com. A titular nod
to the sixteen sphinxes that once guarded the entrance to
the mausoleum (and the one that remains), Kavana Lvxors
location on the Peristyle is stellar. And the services on offer
match the quality of the location. Theres wireless Internet,
magazines and daily newspapers in foreign languages and a
broad menu that includes normal caf fare, plus cocktails,
sandwiches and breakfast in the morning. In the warmer
months, cushions are places on the steps of the Peristyle so
you can lounge around in true imperial style. QOpen 08:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PAB
Desserts
Bobis-Riva I-3, Obala hrv.narodnog preporoda
20, tel. 34 79 62, www.bobis-svagusa.hr. A Split

institution, Bobis has been providing the citys citizens
with delectable eats since 1950. There are a load of
Bobis stores dotted throughout town, but this one has
arguably the best location, as its right on the Riva. You
can match your coffee with an appropriate pastry or
choose a pre-wrapped one to take with you for your hike
around Marjan. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGB
Kua sladoleda Carmen I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 6,
tel. 34 49 89. Cool off at Kua Carmen as they offer
you a wide range of ice-creams and beverages. From the
creamy to the fruity, it has it all the flavors. Its close to
the Croatian National Theatre, therefore hard to miss.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PNB
Tradicija I-2, Bosanska 2, tel. 36 10 70. This is the
oldest confectionary in town and with grand old age,
come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakes
and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradition
- just as the name itself! QOpen 08:00 - 21:30. Closed
Sun. PNG
Po Bota I-2, ubieva 2, tel. 098 21 53 79. If you prefer
an intimate affair, come to this caf bar which doubles up as

an art exhibition of the local artists. The terrace borders onto
the Fruit square (Voni trg) giving a sense of the friendly local
crowd atmosphere. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00
- 02:00. Closed Sun. B
Teak caffe J-2, Majstora Jurja 11, tel. 36 25 96. Yep,
the interior is all done up in Teak and lined on one side by
the original northern wall of the palace. Outdoor seating
is available in a pleasant courtyard, cozily surrounded by
the stone walls of neighbouring buildings. Q Open 08:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00
- 24:00. PNB
Teraca Bamba H-3, Solurat 7, tel. 091 311 09 98. Give
the interior of this one a pass unless the need arises to weave
your way through the tables and patrons to visit the unisex
bathroom. Until then, soak up the resplendent view from
the terrace of ships to-ing and fro-ing across the harbor. For
best results, experience with an attractive significant other.
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PNB
Tonik Juicy Bar H-2, Ban Mladenova 5, tel. 39 48
88/ 098 64 13 76. A small but charming place for a break
in between checking out the city. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
PNGB
Being as it is a city that thrives on tourism, Split by night is

chock full of people wandering around who are in the area
for only a night or two. Depending on your mood, this can be
extremely interesting or mildly annoying. Either way, youre
sure to find a few bars that are open and pumping until early
into the morning hours or sufficiently tucked away that you
can escape the visiting hordes.
Bars
Bua I-2, Priora Petra 7 (Martinski prolaz). Nestled
alongside a group of narrow bars lies Bua, a smaller alternative spot where one can enjoy the nights with rock music.
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
Ghetto J-2, Dosud 10, tel. 36 00 50. Furry, fluffy seats
complimented by a funk and disco soundtrack contribute to a
relaxed, if not slightly quirky feel. The murals on the walls are
dedicated to birds and bees. Symbolic? You decide. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. PNB
Lounge bar Art I-2, ubieva 3, tel. 49 09 45. Through
Art you pass under a narrow entryway until you find yourself
in an old-style courtyard with a white minimalistic space
where morning coffees beckon, and the lounge bar spreads
out to two more levels where the nights (particularly Fridays
and Saturdays) get you in the mood with pumping DJs and
Studio 54. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00,
Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
Mosquito J-2, Majstora Jurja 4. Mosquito squeezes a
great deal into a small space, with spiral staircases linking
an upstairs-downstairs jumble of expertly mis-matched furnishings and bright interior colours. Theres plenty of loungey
furniture to slump into, and a popular terrace outside. Serves
draught Guinness. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
Na kantunu J-2, Dominisova 9. Claustrophobic orangecoloured space which a huge Hajduk Split symbol dominating
one wall - which will at least fill you with a deep sense of
comfort and joy if youve picked up any of the local sporting
patriotism since your arrival in the city. Na Kantunus real
advantage however is the old-town location, with outdoor
seating in a small square. Serving bottles of Velebitsko pivo
(one of the few Croatian ales worth drinking) alongside Czechbrewed Lobkowicz, its also an outstanding place for a beer.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Red room J-2, Cararina poljana 4, tel. 45 92 31,
alexatpos@yahoo.com. Hang out of a more mature and
discerning crowd, this intimately lighted and comfy space
has an altogether positive, relaxing vibe enhanced by light
and smooth music. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00
- 02:00. PB
St Riva I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 18, tel.
099 694 48 49/ 098 31 49 01, info.striva@gmail.com,
www.st-riva.com. Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is
primarily located along the city walls and is an ideal place to
relax on hot summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime
views you have of the Riva and port, one of the better places
to chill whilst sipping beverages. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 08:00 - 02:00. JB
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Fine lookin Ladies

Ask a Croatian where to go to see the most beautiful
women and most will point you directly to Split (even
the bitter females of the population). A strange and
nearly mystical aura surrounds these creatures, and
indeed the world fashion industry makes no secret of
this locales rare ability to produce goddesses. They
are known especially for the combination of amazing
height, ample bosom, brilliant Mediterranean Slavic
features and a scorn for writers of city guides
Clubs
Hemingway C-2, VIII. Mediteranskih igara 3, split@
hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Nope, your fancy
trainers wont cut it here, darlings. In fact your plimsoles wont
even make it past the door. This will be Splits most opulent
drinking hole (we are told to believe) where bartenders with
slick moves (remember Tom Cruise in Cocktail?) make a mean
Mai-Tai. QOpen 08:00 - 06:00. PABW
Jungla A-3, etalite Ivana Metrovia bb, tel. 095
897 29 21. The new season at this beach bar Jungle
(located under etalite I.Metrovi) starts with an electric
beat and continues in that rhythm all summer long. Youre
invited! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00
- 06:00. PB
OHara E-3, Uvala Zenta 3, tel. 098 36 42 62, infoohara@gmail.com, www.ohara.hr. Small groups of Splits
young hell-raisers mark the way to their partying Mecca, a
beach-side night club with club hits throbbing at maximum
volume and potentially hangover-inducing drink specials. If
youre in the mood for a quiet, relaxing weekend night out,
look elsewhere. A lounge and bar area provides temporary
escape from the club crush. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 04:00. B
Obojena Svjetlost A-3, Metrovievo etalite 35, tel.
35 82 80. This place is noted as a popular hang-out, named
after the locals and situated just under Katelet towards
Marjan. Swing by and stay for the parties and concerts all
summer. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.
Quasimodo D-2, Gundulieva 26. Located on the first floor
of an anonymous grey block that doesnt immediately look
like the natural habitat of rock and roll, Quasimodo is one of
your best bets for live blues, jazz and alternative rock. The
programme comprises local wannabes alongside leading
acts from Croatia and the western Balkans. QOpen 07:00
- 03:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun.
Tree poluvrijeme (Kuka) C-2, Zrinsko-Frankopanska
17. The expression tree poluvrijeme points (3rd half-time)
out that after all football games are played in town there is still
a place where one can hang out and have fun and that place
is known as Kuka, named after its owner. Kuka is located
behind the National Theatre and it offers a choice of coffees
during the day and a good time out at night till late (via its
other entrance). If you dont feel like walking, theres plenty
of parking space out front. QOpen Fri, Sat 01:00 - 06:00.
Caffe bar Open 07:00 - 24:00. PB
Vanilla C-2, Poljudski put b.b., tel. 098 163 62 72/
098 29 25 22. Match the look of Splits beautiful people
who frequent this open, airy club and don some slick duds
before making the fifteen-minute walk from the old town.
Youll find two large bar areas, comfy seating, house and
dance tunes on the speakers and a hip decor. QOpen Fri,
Sat 24:00 - 04:00.
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Consisting of an imperial Roman palace that was taken over
by the plebs and turned into a thronging city, central Split is
an attraction in itself. Theres no single must-see attraction
here: its really a question of taking time to stroll the palaces
narrow, tunnel-like streets, where Roman, medieval and
Renaissance buildings jostle together to form a unique urban
jumble. And you shouldnt just restrict your wanderings to the
city centre: residential neighbourhoods such as Veli Varo,
Luac and Manu are filled with the kind of picturesque alleys
and stone houses that are so typical of traditional Dalmatian
towns. Rising above the city to the west, Marjan hill presents
an easily accessible expanse of woodland park, with some
fine views back towards the centre.
Essential Split
Diocletians Palace (Dioklecijanova palaa) I/J-2.
A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the

hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practically
any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace
at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home.
Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years
and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region,
including white stone shipped from the island of Bra to
sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt. Diocletians
palace has become the quintessential living museum, as
modern shops and citizens live
and work inside the walls of the
ancient palace complex.
The part of the palace known
as the basement was built
during the reign of Diocletian to
support the apartments placed
above it and, until 1956, was
unexplored and cluttered up
with the detritus of thousands
of years of history. Now, its
been cleaned and opened for
visitors. Because it mirrors
the floor plan of the original
imperial living quarters, a visit
to the basement can help
visitors envision the layout
of the palace. And, because
exploring the depths of ancient
palaces is difficult work, the
steps leading up and out of the
northern end of the basement
to the Peristyle can be a perfect
escape. At one time the central
courtyard of the palace, the
Peristyle is now one of the
central meeting points in town,
with people leisurely sipping
coffe e, surroun d e d by an
array of ancient architectural
structures.
Fish Market (Ribarnica) I2, Obrov 5. Upon entering, you
might feel compelled to crack
the classic, Somethings fishy here joke, but please refrain
- its been said before. What you can do is check out the hustle
and bustle of weighing, cutting, haggling and trading that has
been going on at this site since the fish market moved from
its original location in the south-eastern part of the palace
complex in 1843. The interesting smells emanating from the
fish market might be compounded with another distinctive
odor wafting through the air, that of sulphur. Theres a sulphur
spa nearby whose smell frequently mingles with the smell of
fish, creating a truly interesting amalgamation of aromas.
WHat to sEE
Galleries
Diocletian
The history of the early part of his life is rather fuzzy,
but Diocles (also Diocletian in English) is believed to
have been born in about 244 near Solin, 8km away from
present-day Split. Diocletian was Roman Emperor from
November 20, 284 to May 1, 305 and, by establishing a
strong autocracy and strengthening the military, brought
an end to the period of the Roman Empire known as the
Crisis of the Third Century.
One of the many distinctions of Diocletians rule was the
creation of the Tetrarchy, which is generally credited with
ending the aforementioned Crisis of the Third Century. To
distribute power and authority more evenly, Diocletian
initially named a co-emperor, Maximian, to look after
affairs in the Western regions of the Empire. In 293,
desiring even more focus on civic and military matters, two
more Caesars (junior emperors) were named, with each
leader operating out of their own capitol on the frontiers
of the Empire.After twenty years of rule, Diocletian and
Maximian abdicated power. Newly-appointed Tetrarchs
quickly made the system of rule a formula for civil war,
and this unique form of government collapsed. Diocletian
saw his friends and allies turn against him and each
other, with Maximian even forced to commit suicide.
By this time, Diocletian was in his elaborate retirement
palace that he had had constructed, the ruins of which
form the core of the old town of modern-day Split. On
December 3, 311, after a tumultuous life as the leader
of the Roman empire, Diocletian died.
Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) A/B-2/3. When ready to
escape the hustle and bustle of Croatias second city, visitors

can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk through Veli Varo up to
the wooded heights of the Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of
paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests
and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or
walking should be started just like the locals would, with a
drink at Caf Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula
is home to several points of interest, including the remains
of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels
from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps
leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on
the peninsula. The islands of Bra, Hvar and olta can be
seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as
the island of Vis.
Riva I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda. If you
wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog naradnog
preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival),
you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just
ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right
direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront
that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on
its south side. Its the de facto gathering spot, day and night,
for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that
have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup
of coffee and people-watching.
Emanuel Vidovi Gallery (Galerija Emanuel

Vidovi) J-2/J-3, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. 36
01 55/ 36 01 67, gorana@mgst.net, www.mgst.net.

Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifullyrestored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to
the career of local painter Emanuel Vidovi (1872-1953).
Croatias leading post-impressionist, Vidovi was consumed
by a life-long fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split,
Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia providing most of his
subject matter. Alongside a good cross-section of Vidovis
uniquely hazy canvases, there is a fascinating re-creation
of the artists former studio - including dolls, curios and an
extraordinary collection of wooden sculptures by self-taught
artist Petar Smaji. A Croatian-language film about Vidovis
life can be seen on the top floor - worth watching if only
because of the groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to
sit in. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.
Admission 5 - 10kn.
Green Market (Pazar) J-3. Any traveller worth their salt
wants to get real and rub elbows with some of the locals and
Splits Pazar is the place to go to satisfy that desire. Jump
in and join in the hubbub going on, all dedicated to good ol
small scale market capitalism. The buying and selling frenzy
involves a variety of wares such as fruits and veggies, clothing
and other odds and ends.
The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius

(Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) J-2. Eleven of the
twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle

have been destroyed by Christians who took exception
to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth
remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the
mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperors tomb has long
since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the
Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletians rule do
remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that
can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently
on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter
a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another
enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical
irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletians
victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior
of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely
view of the surrounding area and the nearby port.
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WHat to sEE
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Churches
Saint Dominics Church and Monastery (Crkva

i Samostan sv. Dominika) J-2/J-3, Hrvojeva 2,
tel. 32 34 71, samostan.split@dominikanci.hr, www.

dominikanci.hr/zupa-gospe-od-ruzarija. Across from the
Silver Gates of the Diocletian Palace is Saint Dominics Church;
first mentioned in the 13th century, it acquired its current
structure in 1682 and was widened at the beginning of the
19th century. See the preserved baroque altars, the painting
of the Miracle in Suriano by Jacopo Palma Jr and the Vision
in the Temple, as well as the gothic crucifix. Mass: 07:00,
08:00, 19:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00 and 19:00.
QOpen 08:30 - 12:00.
The Franciscan Church and Monaster y of

the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
(Franjevaka crkva i samostan Uznesenja Blaene
Djevice Marije) C-1, Poljudsko etalite 2, tel. 38
Metrovi Gallery and the Crikvine Katelet B3, etalite Ivana Metrovia 46/39, tel. 34 08 00,
mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Ivan Metrovi
was undoubtedly the best Croatian artist who exemplified
his skills as a sculptor, painter, architect and writer. After
finishing his studies in Vienna, Metrovi breathed life into the
cultural centres of Europe having exhibited his works in Rome,
Prague, London, Cannes and Geneva. The post WWII period
saw Metrovi move to the USA where his career continued
to flourish. His works and masterpieces can be seen across
famous European and American galleries including our very
own Split. The Metrovi Gallery Picasso once said that all
children are artists. The problem is how to remain an artist
once they grow up. Metrovi lived for his art and was devoted
to his cause. This was evident with the construction of his
own gallery/family house which was built from 1931-1939.
Its location is in the most beautiful part of Split, up on the
slopes of Mount Marjan. On display are his masterpieces
made from marble, wood and bronze as well as paintings and
drawings created between 1905-1946. The Mediterranean
garden which surrounds the gallery as well as the sea views
is spectacular. Crikvine Katelet During the 16th century,
this was a fortified summer villa owned by one of Splits noble
families and gracefully located near Metrovis Gallery on the
cliff above the sea. Call it a project or a personal mission, but
Metrovi chose to renovate the summer villa and make it
a place of holy peace and contemplation. He also built the
Church of the Holy Cross and cloister. Metrovi made a big
wooden cross for the church and 28 wooden reliefs with
different themes from Christs life. This opus is considered
a master piece of European sculpting art. Holy mass is held
there on Sundays and during the holiday period at 09:00.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.
Split
telephone code is +385-21
Split Art Gallery (Galerija umjetnina) J-2, Ulica

kralja Tomislava 15, tel. 35 01 11/ 35 01 12, galerijaumjetnina@galum.hr, www.galum.hr. Recently re-opened
in its brand-new home (a restored former hospital), Splits
main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatics most absorbing
collections. The Renaissance is represented by an altarpiece
attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of Melancholy
by Albrecht Drer; while the overview of nineteenth- and
twentieth-century Croatian art ropes in most of the key
figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel Vidovi included.
Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivani and photographs by
Ana Opali will provide plenty of material for the chin-strokers
to ponder over. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.
13 77, samostan.poljud@gmail.com, www.samostanpoljud.com. On the northern side of the Split peninsula

along the shallow Katela Bay, youll find the Franciscan
Monastery on Poljud. The name Poljud derives from the Latin
word swamp (Paludes) since until recently, this area was
covered with water. On this very site, Archbishop Paul built the
Church of the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de Palude). The
Franciscan church and monastery is the most valuable gothicrenaissance complex in Split. The church and monastery
have a nice collection of silver liturgical artifacts. The oldest
object is a gothic drawer for incense from the 15th century
and a gothic-renaissance crucifix from the 16th century. The
Museum also stows precious valuables from the monastery
library such as the Bull by Pope Callistus III in 1457 that gave
redemption to those who, on the Virgins feast days and on
the first Sundays of the month, visited the Poljud sanctuary
and gave donations for its construction. Mass: 07:00 and
19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 11:30 and 19:00. Q
Open by prior arrangement.
The Church of Our Lady of the Bell tower (Crkva

Gospe od Zvonika) I-2. Located inside the Diocletian
Palace, in the hallway above the Iron Gates, you will find a
baroque altar; dubbed a Byzantine icon, it was painted at
around the 11th century. Preserved paintings by the artist
Meneghello from 1412 are on show. Its bell tower, built
around the year 1100 is the oldest Romanesque bell tower
in Dalmatia.
The Church of Saint Francis (Samostanska crkva

sv. Frane) I-2. In order to climb onto the Marjan Mountain,
pass on by the church of Saint Francis (13th century) in which

there are headstones that depict renaissance fine art. The
headstones are of famous writer Marko Maruli (1450-1524),
the tombs of Jero Kavanjanin (1641-1714), Toma Arhiakon
(around 1200-1268) as well composer Ivan Lukai (15481648). Numerous baroque paintings and statues decorate
the inside of the church, not to mention the gothic cloister
on the outside.
The Church of Saint Martin (Gold gate) (Crkvica

sv. Martina) J-2. The church is 1.64 meters wide and
10 meters long and it just might be the smallest church

in the world. It used to be the passage for watchmen who
would secure the entrance into the Diocletian Palace. At the
beginning of the 9th century it was turned into a Christian
church and consecrated to Saint Martin. Next to the church,
there is the monastery of the Dominican nuns. The first
nuns arrived to Split in the 14th century and settled next to
the church at the Golden Gates. They were called picokare.
Today, the nuns take care of the nearby Cathedral of Saint
Domnius.
The Saint Clara Monastery and Church (Samostan
i Crkva sv. Klare) K-1, Klarina 1a. A well maintained

church which is home to a painted 13th century Romanesque
crucifix, several icons as well as renaissance and baroque
paintings by Venetian artists.
Lovorka Maga
The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske

katedrale) J-2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5. The treasury holds a
collection of golden artifacts and church garments from

the Romanesque, gothic and baroque period. Some of
the highlights include the pyx from 1522, Croatias oldest
manuscript Evangelistar from the 8th century, the Supetar
katular from the 9th century and Historia Salonitana by Toma
Arhiakon from the 13th century.
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Poljud Stadium
Known to locals as Poljudska ljepotica or Poljud beauty,
Poljud is the second largest stadium in Croatia (after
Maksimir Stadium in Zagreb) and has a capacity of 35,000
people. Poljud was slated for a massive re-construction
in anticipation of a joint Croatia / Hungary bid to host the
UEFA cup in 2012. However, as Poland and the Ukraine were
chosen to host the games, the re-construction plan has
been put on hold. The stadium was originally constructed
by the Yugoslavian government as part of the facilities for
the 1979 Mediterannean Games and was oficially opened
by Josip Broz Tito, who was an avowed fan of the team who
play their home games in Poljud, HNK Hajduk Split.By far
the most important and revered sports team in Dalmatia,
a dedicated fanbase around the world has followed Hajduk
throughout the teams history. In the former Yugoslavia,
Hajduk was one of the few teams to attract fans from
different regions and ethnicities, particularly with Albanians
in Kosovo. And there are numerous anecdotes about
Hajduk never playing a game without at least some of their
loyal fans in the stands, the Torcida.Named for Brazilian
football supporters that impressed Hajduk fans during the
1950 World Cup (in Portugese, torcer is to cheer), the
Torcida are one of the most dedicated football supporters
groups in Europe. The Torcida generally call Hajduk players
as bili, which in local dialect is the plural form of bijeli, or
white, in reference to the white shirts that, along with blue
shorts, comprise the Hajduk uniform.Along with the teams
rich history, Hajduk is also known for cultivating quality
football players, with several going on to illustrious careers
in European club football. Suffice it to say that when the
Croatian national team placed third in the 1998 World Cup,
five of the eleven starters were former Hajduk players.
Landmarks
Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodno
kazalite) I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 1, tel. 34 49 99/ 30 69
08, hnk-split@hnk-split.hr, www.hnk-split.hr. The story

of Croatias National Theatre in Split is long and complicated
but begins on December 26, 1859, right near the beginning
of a period of autonomy in the city. Antonio Bajamonti was,
during a brief respite from Venetian and Austro-Hungarian
control, the citys leader and a principal investor in the
theatre that ultimately bore his name. Sadly, that theatre was
almost completely destroyed in a fire in 1881 and plans to
re-build on the original site were never realised. The theatre
was relocated to its present location on (street) and has
resided there since
Grgur Ninski J-2. In 926, the representatives of Croatian
churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to
conduct a reform of the then current church system. The
Great Assembly took place in Split and, in accordance with
the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed
in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and
official Church business being Latin. Naturally, this started a
firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions.
In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of
Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Gregory
of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church
intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is
recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers
of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive
Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan
Metrovi, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can
rub his shiny big toe for good luck).
WHat to sEE
Prokurative I-2. Trg Republike (Republic Square) is a
large, open square surrounded on three sides by a collection

of elaborate neo-Renaissance buildings known as the
Prokurative. On the southern side, the square opens up to
a lovely view of the harbour. Construction of the Prokurative
started during the latter half of the 19th century under the
supervision of General Marmont, with the buildings inspired
largely by the architecture of the same period in Venice.
While relatively unoccupied in the cooler months, the square
comes alive in the summer with concerts and cultural events,
the most popular being the Entertainment Musical Festival
of Split.
Museums
Archeological Museum (Arheoloki muzej) C-2,
Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. 32 93 40, info@armus.
hr, www.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski. Even though its situated
north of the town centre, Splits archaeological museum is
certainly worth the trip. The museum was founded in 1820,
making it the oldest museum in Croatia. The museums
contents come mainly from central Dalmatia, especially from
Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region.
Also featured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman
origin, along with hundreds of other objects made from bone,
metal and glass from various historical periods including prehistoric, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval. Q Open 09:00
- 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.
City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) J-2, Papalieva
1, tel. 36 01 71/ 36 01 72, muzej-grada-st@st.t-com.
hr, www.mgst.net. The Papali family settled in Split in the
early 14th century and, while in the process of becoming
one of the cities most respected families, built a small
palace to serve as their familys home. Today, the palace
plays host to the City Museum of Split, the origins of which
can be traced back to Dmine Papali and his collection of
sculptures and monuments taken from nearby Salona. The
collection has grown in subsequent years to include various
paintings and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures,
monuments and statues that were once parts of buildings in
Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numerous
documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that help
tell the historical story of Split. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 5 -10kn.
Croatian Maritime Museum (Hrvatski pomorski

muzej) K-2, Glagoljaka 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. 34 77
88/ 34 73 46, hpms@hpms.hr, www.hpms.hr. Spend all

your time cocooned in the old town and youll miss out on
many of Splits more quirky delights, of which the maritime
museum is undoubtedly one. Its located inside the Gripe
fortress, built by the Venetians in the sixteenth century
to keep the Ottomans at bay, and subsequently used as
a barracks by the Austrian Empire. Contents include a
simple but compelling collection of model ships through the
ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to twentieth-century
cruise liners. Also lying around are all manner of nautical
equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval uniforms. Most
striking exhibit is the room devoted to the ground-breaking
torpedoes developed by the Whitehead-Lupis workshop in
nineteenth-century Rijeka. To finish off, you can look around
an outdoor display of beached boats while serenaded by
shrieking peacocks - a colony of which roams free on the
east side of the fortress. Q Open 09:00-14:00, Mon, Thu,
09:00 - 14:00, 17:30-20:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Admission 5 - 10kn.
Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) J-3,
Severova 1, tel. 34 41 61, etnografski-muzej-st@st.tcom.hr, www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr. If youre into
making an in-depth examination of Croatias cultural tradition,
particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then youre in luck.
Splits Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910 and
features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery and
clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like knitting,
woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised in the
region over the years. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. From July Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn.
Zoo (Zooloki vrt) C-2, Kolombatievo etalite 2,

Marjan, tel. 39 45 25. Despite the presence of the occasional
exotic beast here and there, Splits zoo is a rather modest affair
that displays local farm animals alongside the odd Croatian
wolf, boar or vulture. And unless you have kids in tow who need
entertaining, theres not much point in coming to be honest.
The cages do contain some odd combinations, with peacocks,
rabbits and sheep all sharing one enclosure, and a bemused
ostrich rooming with the Shetland ponies in another. The zoos
stampeding herd of guinea pigs will trigger nightmare visions for
anyone who remembers the Trouble with Tribbles episode of
Star Trek. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.
Small Galleries
The Conser vator y Depar tment Galler y
(Konzervatorska galerija) I-2, Porinova 2. Q Open
10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Admission free.

Kula J-2, Kralja Tomislava bb, tel. 38 67 22, galerija.
kula@gmail.com, www.galerija-kula.hr. Q Open 09:00
- 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Admission free.
MKC Gallery D/E-2, Savska bb, Dom mladih, tel.
Galerija MKC, www.mkcsplit.hr. Q Open during exhibition
10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Salon Gali I-2, Marmontova 3, tel. 34 83 60, www.
hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm. Q Open 10:00 -13:00, 18.00
- 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
The cellars of Diocletians Palace (Diklecijanovi
podrumi) I/J-3, hulu-split.hr/str/podrumi.htm. QOpen

09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 10 - 25kn.
Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments

(Muzej hrvatskih arheolokih spomenika) A-3,
etalite Ivana Metrovia 18, tel. 32 39 01/ 32 39 05,

muzej-has1@st.t-com.hr, www.mhas-split.hr. Founded in
1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian archaeological
pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological
Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen
the museums site change frequently, sometimes due to
the growing size of the collection and sometimes due to
the impending threat of war. A trip to the museums current
location, opened in 1976, will give you the chance to view
part of the museums 3,000-piece collection of sculpture,
tools, weapons and other items spanning several periods,
with an emphasis on the Medieval. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00,
Sat 09:00 -14:00. Closed Sun. From July Open 09:00 - 13:00,
17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Photo Club Split

Photo Club Split (Galerija fotografije fotokluba
Split) I-2, Marmontova 5, tel. 34 75 97, info@
fotoklubsplit.hr, w w w.fotoklubsplit.hr. Hugel y
enjoyable gallery of contemporary photography with an
imaginative programme of themed exhibitions, featuring
international photographers as well as works by members
of the local photography club. Q Open 10:30 - 12:30
and 18:30 - 21:30, Sat 10:30 -12:30. Closed Sun.
Admission free.
Parks
Summer 2009
31
32
mail & pHonEs
WHat to sEE
Mobile phones
City express mail

City Ex G-1, Put Mostina 10, tel. 45 70 00/ 0800 303
333, split@cityexpress.hr, www.cityexpress.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Express mail
DHL E-3/F-3, Poljika cesta 29, tel. 66 51 111, hrspu@
dhl.com, www.dhl.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
Hpekspres I-2/J-2, Kralja Tomislava 9, tel. 38 34 46,

34 89 90/ 062 20 22 02, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:30
- 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun.

IN TIME Put Stinica bb, tel. 50 81 66/ 091 626 20
30, 091 626 20 78, split@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr.
QOpen 07:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N
Over seasExpr ess J-1, Domovinskog rata 10,
Dugopolje, tel. 66 01 53/ 66 01 57, split@overseas.
hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00
- 12:00. Closed Sun. N
Internet places
Streets and Squares

Fruit Square (Voni trg - Trg brae Radia) I-2. Now
home to various shops and businesses, Trg brae Radi was

once home to a bustling fruit market and so has been given
the unofficial name of Voni trg. This translates to, you might
have guessed, fruit square. These days theres no fruit in
sight, but there are several shops and points of interest that
call this square home, including the Venetian castello and
tower, both of which were constructed in 1435. The northern
side of the square is dominated by the Milesi Palace, one of
the best examples of Baroque architecture in Dalmatia. The
statue that stands in front of the palace is relatively small but
represents a large figure from Croatian history, that of Marko
Maruli, a 15th-century poet who was one of the first literary
figures to use Croatian language. The statue was created
by another eminent Croatian historial figure, Ivan Metrovi.
Marmontova Street (Marmontova ulica) I-2, . From
1806 to 1813, Napoleon ruled the city of Split, along with
many of its Dalmatian neighbour-cities. Apparently, the French
demanded to occupy a relatively sophisticated city, as many
urban improvements were made under the supervision of the
French General Auguste Marmont. Walls were torn down, new
roads were built and electricity powered the city for the first
time. To return the favour, Split has immortalized Marmont
in the name of this popular pedestrian street, full of posh
shops and cafs.
Peoples Square (Narodni trg - Pjaca) I-2. A trip
west from the Peristyle along Kreimirova takes you through

the Iron Gate and into Narodni trg, commonly reffered to
as Pjaca, a Croatian form of the Italian word piazza. In the
fourteenth century, this square replaced the Peristyle as
the citys central meeting area and it remains so to this day.
The square is overlooked by a Romanesque clock with the
remains of a medieval sundial in front of a larger, older belfry
and contains numerous shops and cafs. The north side of
the square is taken up by the Town Hall (Gradska vijenica),
a fifteenth-century construction that hosts art or history
exhibitions in the summer months.
Veli Varo
Youve memorised the misleadingly simple code break-down,

and are ready to take the plunge (lets hope you decided
not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Heres
the trick: dial the subscribers six- or seven-digit number,
and place the receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the
Croatian city code ((0)21 if youre calling Split for instance)
followed by the subscribers number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00
(the international access code), the appropriate country code,
a city or area code if applicable and the subscribers number.
Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access
code, 385 (Croatias country code), the city code (dropping
the initial 0) and the subscribers number. Calling a Mobile:
Mobile numbers are 10-digits and begin with either 091,098,
099, 092 and 095. Dial the subscribers number and wait for
a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile,
dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop
the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.
Letters up to 50 gr
Varo is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old

apartments that is characteristic of Dalmatia. Its well
worth taking a stroll around this part of the city, if only to
catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split.
Postcrads
T-Centar I-2/J-1, Marmontova 7-9, tel. 0800 15 50,

simpa@t-mobile.hr, www.t-mobile.hr. Q Open 08:00
- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
T-Centar Ruera Bokovia 18a, tel. 0800 15 50,
simpa@t-mobile.hr, www.t-mobile.hr. Q Open 08:30
Tele 2 I-2, Zadarska 12, tel. 34 60 02, alo2@aloalo.hr,
www.tele2.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Vip centar I-2, Zadarska 13, tel. 091 77 00, sluzba.
za.korisnike@vipnet.hr, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Vip centar F-1, Lika 12, tel. 091 77 00, sluzba.
za.korisnike@vipnet.hr, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Post
If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can
buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure theyre
right value for what you are sending and where.Once you put it
on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small yellow
boxes attached to buildings around town.
Making the call
Postal rates
Veli Varo H-2. Situated west of the old town, Veli
Cyber club 100D J-1, Sinjska 2/4, tel. 34 81 10,

info100D@gmail.com. Internet use - 20kn/hour, half hour
10kn, printing 1kn/per page. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
16:00 - 22:00.
Mria I-2/J-2, Kruieva 3, tel. 32 13 20, kurziv@
hotmail.com. Old records lay stacked in the corner, pictures
are on the walls and music plays lightly in the background.
And, oh yeah, there are computers. It all looks exactly like a
bedroom-turned-Internet point. In a good way. Internet use
- 5kn/15minutes. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Net Com D-3, Poljana Grgura Ninskog 9, tel. 34 76
61/ 091 311 42 22, info@n-c.hr, www.n-c.hr. Internet
use - first 15min / 5kn, price of every next minute is 0,33kn.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Pvp Internet I-2, Zadarska 4/1, tel. 33 28 10/ 099
193 19 28, pvpinternet@gmail.com. Internet use - 10kn
/ 20minutes QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
Mobile phone use in Split is typical to most everywhere in

Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have
attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however,
are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of showtunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of
moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the
only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode
designation in this central European location. The networks
that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098, 099) and Tele
2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the
place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at
a cash machine. SIM Cards: Purchase a Croatian SIM card
from one of the following. They all have numerous selling
points throughout the city if the below addresses arent
convenient for you.
Main post office E-1, Hercegovaka 1, tel. 38 33 65.

QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Post office I-2/J-2, Kralja Tomislava 9, tel. 34 89 90/
34 52 35, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 07:30
Public telephone
Croatia
Abroad
Croatia
Abroad
3,50 kn
8,00 kn
1,80 kn
3,50 kn
Telephone cards You can purchase phone card (telefonska
kartica) at any kiosk - they come in 15 -100 units and cost

15, 30, 50 and 100kn respectively. You can also buy prepaid phone cards which give you substantial discounts when
calling abroad.
Summer 2009
33
City Bus lines
GEttinG aRound
Summer Flights
As summer descends it is undoubtedly the busiest time
of the year with the mass influx of tourists that visit our
shores. The airports in and around Croatia which include
Zagreb, Pula, Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Dubrovnik have an
abundant amount of seasonal flights on offer, thanks
largely to the standard and low cost airline companies
that connect Croatia to the rest of Europe. The
distance between
each airport, except
for Dubrovnik, is a 4
hour drive maximum;
therefore, you do not
have to renounce
your flight in case
the airline you have
chosen does not fly to the airport of your choice. Just
check for the other nearest airport.Alongside the
standard flights in our flight schedule for this summer
in Croatia, these are the airlines which will also fly
to Croatia: EasyJet, Blue1, SAS, Clickair, Iberia, Jet2,
Norwegian Air, Hapagloyd, Germanwings, Centralwings,
Danube Wings, SkyEurope, Jetairfly, Estonian air,
Aerlingus, Flybe, Tuifly, Flyglobespan, EStonianair, Air
Berlin, Wizzair, Ryanair, InterSky, Monarch,and Jat. The
difficult part now is which one to choose!
Airline offices
Aeroplan D-3, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, tel. 33 84
45/ 33 84 46, aeroplan@st.t-com.hr. Malev and Adria

Airways agent. Office at the airport, tel. 79 62 93. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Air Berlin , www.airberlin.com.
Blue1 , www.blue1.com.
Croatia Airlines Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda
9, tel. 36 29 97, sputo@croatiaairlines.com, www.
croatiaairlines.com. There is also office at the airport, tel.
021 20 33 05. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
EasyJet , www.easyjet.com.
Flybe , www.flybe.com.
Generalturist I-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. 34 51 83/ 34
55 91, psplit@generalturist.com, www.generalturist.
com. Lufthansa agent. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Germanwings , www.germanwings.com.
InterSky , www.intersky.biz.
Norwegian , www.norwegian.no.
SAS Scandinavian Airlines , www.flysas.com/hr.
SkyEurope , www.skyeurope.com.
Airport
Split Airport-Katela (Zrana luka Split-Katela)
Cesta dr.Franje Tumana 96, Katel tafili, tel. 20 35

55, fax 20 34 22, uprava@split-airport.hr, www.splitairport.hr. The airport is relatively small but serves a fair
number of domestic and European cities. If youre not able
to fly to your destination from Split, there are daily flights to
Zagreb, which is a bit more connected to the outside world.
The airport can be reached by hopping on bus number 37
(bound for Trogir) from Sukoianska. The bus runs every 20
minutes on weekdays and every 30 minutes on weekends. If
you happen to have the distinction of being a Croatia Airlines
passenger, you can take the airport bus that waits at the
beginning of the Riva, an hour and a half before Croatia
Airlines flights.
If you didnt manage to blow all your kunas on coffees on the
Riva, you can exhange them in the offices run by Splitska
banka or at the post office, both of which are located in the
main hall of the airport.
And if you did manage to blow all your kunas on shopping,
enquire at the information desk where you can confirm your
tax-free form, as the office is not visually marked.
Airport bus
If youre flying with Croatia Airlines, buses leave an hour
and a half before each flight and will set you back 30kn.
The stop is located at the corner of the Riva and start of
the street leading to the bus and train stations and the
ferry port. Otherwise, take bus number 37 for Trogir from
Sukoianska bus station; tickets cost 15kn one way, leaving
every 20 minutes.
Bra Airport
Airport Bra Veko Polje, Gornji Humac, tel. 55 97 01,
info@airport-brac.hr, www.airport-brac.hr. Situated 14km

away from Bol and 30km from Supetar, the biggest town on
the island of Bra, this small airport started operations in
1993 and is open year round, with charter flights organized
only during the summer. The airport accepts planes with a
maximum capacity of 100 passengers or fewer. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00.
Summer 2009
35
36
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GEttinG aRound
Buses
Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) J-3,
Bus lines from Split

If you wish to travel to the Croatian capital Zagreb, the
bus ride via freeway is 5 hours approximately. The first
ride starts at 01:00am with buses leaving every hour
thereafter. The last bus leaves at 23:59.
For those wishing to visit the Plitvice National Park there
are four bus lines from Split. The first leaves at 06:00 and
is followed by another at 12:00, 20:15 and 22:45.
Dubrovnik is at the ver y sou th of Croatia and is
approximately 5 hours from Split by bus. The first bus
leaves at 01:30 and the last at 17:15.
Makarska is almost half way to Dubrovnik and the first bus
line towards this beautiful coastal town leaves at 01:30
with the last at 22:30. Bus lines leave almost every hour
and the trip takes about 1 hour.
The first bus to Rijeka leaves at 05:00 and the trip takes
about 7 hours, whilst the last bus leaves from Split to
Rijeka at 22:00. There are ten bus lines towards Rijeka
every day.
Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. 060 32 77 77/ 32 91 80,

fax 32 91 82, info@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr. The main
bus station isnt the most impressive building in town, but it
is well organized and conveniently located next to the ferry
port and train station, which are all about ten minutes walk
to the old town. If youre planning a return trip to a domestic
destination, make sure to check bus operators and travel
times, as return tickets usually require you to travel with the
same company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen
to be traveling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the
bus will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sicknessinducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can affect
the length of your trip. Information about prices and departure/arrival times is available 24 hours at the information desk.
The international ticket office is open 24h.
Car rental
ABC I-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. 34 23 64/ 099 342
30 01, abc-rac@st.t-com.hr, www.rentacar-abc.com.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A
Budget H-3, Trumbieva obala 12, tel. 39 92 14, std@
budget.hr, www.budget.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
Dollar&Thrifty H-3, Trumbieva obala 5, tel. 39 90
00/ 39 88 00, subrosa@subrosa.hr, www.subrosa.hr.
QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
Emaco E-2/E-3/F-2, Matice Hrvatske 14 (Bussines
center Koteks), tel. 53 95 06/ 098 25 51 88, emaco@
emaco.hr, www.emaco.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sun. A
Europcar H-3, Obala kneza Branimira 1, tel. 31 53 07/
31 53 08, info@europcar.hr, www.europcar.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
Hertz H-3, Trumbieva obala 2, tel. 36 04 55/ 091 36

04 551, split.dt@hertz.hr, www.hetz.hr. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

ITR I-3, Obala Lazareta 2, tel. 34 32 64/ 34 30 70, itrst@st.htnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Uni Rent H-2, perun 2, tel. 31 72 97, uni-rent.std@
st.t-com.hr, www.uni-rent.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
Domestic Flight schedule

From Split
Days
-----6-----6-----6-
Dep.
11:55
12:00
18:05
21:00
1234567
-2----7
-----5-1-3--------6---4--7
----5--2----7
---4-----4-------6-----612-45-7
--3----2---------6-
06:15
07:05
07:05
07:40
12:00
12:25
12:55
13:15
13:15
13:30
15:50
17:10
19:45
20:10
21:05
22:20
To Split
Destination
Days
27Jun-10 Oct BRA/BOL
DUBROVNIK
----5-DUBROVNIK
----5-DUBROVNIK
23 Jun-25 Aug OSIJEK, 23 Jun - 25 Aug -2---07:00
ZAGREB
-----5--07:50
ZAGREB
1-3--607:50
ZAGREB
---4--7
08:25
ZAGREB
-2---12:45
ZAGREB
1-3---13:10
ZAGREB
----5-13:10
ZAGREB
-2-4--7
14:00
ZAGREB
-----614:00
ZAGREB
----5-14:15
ZAGREB
--3--16:35
ZAGREB
-----617:55
ZAGREB
12-45-7
20:30
ZAGREB
-2345-7
20:55
ZAGREB
-----621:50
ZAGREB until 16 Oct
1-----23:05
ZAGREB
Mon-1, Tue-2, Wed-3, Thu-4, Fri-5, Sat-6, Sun-7
Split In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes.
Arr.
12:45
12:45
18:40
21:35
Dep.
Arr.
21:00
21:35
21:35
22:10
12:05
05:40
06:15
06:45
06:55
11:00
11:35
11:50
12:00
12:50
13:35
14:05
14:40
21:20
21:20
22:45
12:55
06:25
07:00
07:30
07:40
11:45
12:20
12:35
12:45
13:35
14:20
14:50
15:25
22:05
22:05
23:30
Dep.
15:15
15:15
11:20
18:10
10:35
11:10
11:10
18:20
18:20
18:20
11:20
10:05
12:05
07:00
11:20
12:40
Arr.
17:15
17:15
15:25
22:05
12:35
15:25
15:25
22:05
22:05
22:05
15:25
11:40
13:40
09:30
14:45
22:05
16:00
16:35
16:45
11:50
15:45
10:00
10:25
15:00
11:35
18:00
06:10
13:25
11:45
20:25
19:50
20:00
15:10
17:20
11:15
11:40
16:20
13:35
19:05
09:00
14:40
15:25
International Flight schedule
From Split
Days
-----61234567
----5--2----7
-----61-3---123-5-------7
------7
Dep.
12:05
06:15
07:05
13:15
07:40
06:15
06:15
13:15
13:15
-2-4--7
-----67
12345------61---5--2----7
12345--2--------5-1--------4--7
-----6-----6-2---------67
--3--612-45-7
-----612345-7
-2-4--7
06:15
13:00
14:45
10:30
06:15
13:15
14:45
12:35
14:20
14:35
06:15
13:20
07:45
08:20
16:55
14:25
16:05
10:00
15:25
06:15
To Split
Destination
Days
AMSTERDAM until 7 Oct
--3---AMSTERDAM
-----6AMSTERDAM
12-45-7
BARCELONA
-2-4--7
BRUSSELS
-----6by 17 Jun BRUSSELS
1-----by 22 Jun BRUSSELS
12..5-by 14 Jun BRUSSELS
12----7
by 21 Jun BRUSSELS
-2-45-7
BRUSSELS
----5-10:30
COPENHAGEN
-2-4--7
14:50
FRANKFURT
-----67
16:35
FRANKFURT
12345-13:00
until 3 Oct GOTHENBURG until 26 Sep -----610:30
GOTHENBURG
1---5-17:45
ISTANBUL
-2345-7
21:00
LISABON
15:10
LONDON (LGW)
-2----15:45
LONDON (LGW)
-----5-16:00
LONDON (LGW)
1-----10:00
LONDON (LHR)
-----615:00
LYON
-----609:00
MUNICH
-----609:35
MUNICH
-2----18:20
MUNICH
-----67
16:40
PARIS
1-3--617:05
ROME
12-45-7
12:45
until 3 Oct STOCKHOLM UNTIL 3 Oct -----616:45
VIENNA
12-4567
10:55
ZURICH
-2-45-7
1-Mon, 2-Tue, 3-Wed, 4-Thu, 5-Fri, 6- Sat, 7- Sun
Split In Your Pocket is not responsable for scheduale changes
Arr.
14:25
10:30
10:30
17:15
09:45
10:30
10:30
17:35
17:35
Summer 2009
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GEttinG aRound
Marinas
ACI Marina C-3, Uvala Baluni 8, tel. 39 85 99/ 39 85
58, 39 85 49, m.split@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr.
QOpen 07:30 - 21:30.
Parking
First and foremost, pay heed to the solemn pleas of our editor
and please, please, please respect the parking laws of Split
(and any other city you might be visiting). Now that weve
sufficiently guilt-tripped you into behaving yourself, we can
continue. If you park your car on streets zoned for parking, the
fee is 3kn per hour from 07:00 to 19:00, Saturdays 07:00 to
14:00. In preparation for a new zoning system, Splits streets
have been divided into distinct pricing zones complete with an
SMS pay system. However, the zone pricing system has not
been implemented as of yet; so, when you pay via SMS, youll
be charged the flat rate of 3kn regardless of the zone youre
in. After you get a ticket at the box under the parking sign
make sure you put it in the car window otherwise youll be hit
with a 60kn fine and if youre late, 15 kn for first hour, 40 kn
in second hour and after 120 minutes again 60kn fine. Aside
from zoned street parking, another option for parking in Split
is guarded parking areas, which vary in price per hour from 6
to 10 kunas depending on your proximity to the centre. So, if
youre parking near the Riva, you can bet on the maximum 10kuna fee. Most of the lots operate around the clock, save for
the one at Bokovieva, which runs from 07:00 to 22:00.
Promet Split D-2, Gundulieva 29, tel. 48 10 97, info@
promet.split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.
Ferries
Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as
the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like
Hvar, Bra, olta and Vis. Weve expounded much on the
convenient location of the ferry port and its proximity to the
bus and train stations, but if you still dont know where it is,
making your way there has been simplified by those handy
signs all around town pointing the way. On the street leading
up to the main port building, there are Jadrolinija kiosks
that sell tickets for the ferries that operate to domestic
destinations and Splittours kiosk that sells ticket for Split
Ancona line. Inside the main port building, the Jadrolinija and
Snav offices sell tickets for international travel. The opening
hours of each office change according to season, but during
peak season, the kiosks for local travel close at around 20:00
and the main office closes at midnight.
For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island
you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something
like this: 3 to 6 euros (22-43kn) per person and 14 to 43
euros (101-312kn) for cars. Motorcycles will cost you from
6 to 12 euros (43-87kn) and bicycles from 3 euros to 5
euros (22-36kn). Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee
and we also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of
cute little life vest.
The journey from Split to olta takes about half an hour
and the trip to Vis takes about three and a half hours. On
all ferries, youll find bars where you can buy some snacks
and a drink or two. One final, important note is that its not
possible to reserve tickets for local lines ahead of time.
You can buy them at any time and they are valid for any line
operating that day; but to be sure your car will be placed on
your desired ferry, you should be waiting with your car about
90 minutes before the ferry departs. After you buy your
ticket, the kindly, multi-lingual personnel will explain to you
from which dock the ferry leaves.
Jadrolinija D-3, Gat sv.Duje bb, tel. 33 83 33/ 33 83
04, ag.split@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. This is the
main company in Croatia that caters for public transportation
towards the islands.It must be said that the schedule
for ferry lines can get a bit complicated. See our Getting
Aroundsection. QOpen 04:30 - 24:00.
Kapetan Luka, Krilo Poljika cesta 28, Krilo Jesenice,
tel. 87 28 77/ 091 205 98 86, luka.tomic@st.t-com.hr,
www.krilo.hr. Tickets are available in Jadrolinija agency.
LNP I/J-3, Obala Lazareta bb, tel. 33 83 10, info@lnp.
hr, www.lnp.hr. olta and Bra catamaran lines.Q Open
08:00 - 12:00, 13:30 - 21:00, Sun 18:00 - 20:45.
Snav D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. 32 22 52/ 32 22 53,
snav@st.htnet.hr, w w w.snav.hr. Q Open 08:00 20:00.
Split Tours D-3, Gat sv.Duje 4, tel. 35 25 33, info@
splitours.hr, www.splittours.hr. Blue Line International
agent. Q Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 07:30 - 12:00, Sun 15:00
- 20:30. From July Open 07:30 - 20:30.
Petrol station for boats

INA-Obala H-3, Branimirova obala bb, tel. 39 94 84,
www.ina.hr. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. A
Petrol stations (0-24)
Charter
BavAdria Yachting Obala kralja Tomislava bb, Katel
Gomilica, tel. 20 40 20/ 098 32 16 57, bavadria@

bavadria.com, www.bavadria.com. Q Open 09:00 16:00, Sat 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Euromarine C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 32 31 01, split@
euromarine.hr, www.euromarine.hr. Q Open 08:00
- 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
Nautika centar Nava C-3, Uvala Baluni 1, tel. 40 77
00/ 40 77 02, info@navaboats.com, www.navaboats.
com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Orvas Yachting C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 32 20 15/
098 45 22 25, orvas-office@orvas.hr, www.orvasyachting.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
Ultra C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 39 85 78/ 098 29 46 35,
booking@ultra-sailing.hr, www.ultra-sailing.eu. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00.
INA-Pojian Pojianska bb, tel. 53 72 89, www.ina.hr.

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
INA-Smokovik Zbora narodne garde bb, tel. 37 34 70,
INA-Visoka G-2/G-3, Kralja Drislava bb, tel. 37 45 78,
Lukoil - Sirobuja G-2/G-3, Kralja Drislava bb, tel. 31
67 60, www.lukoil.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
OMV-Istrabenz Magistrala bb, Katel Suurac, tel. 21
78 31, www.omv.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
SMS Parking
There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes
located at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red
- 8211), zone 2 (blue - 8212), zone 3 (green - 8213)
and zone 4 (yellow - 8214). You get a ticket at the box
under the parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by
sending an SMS with your registration number (no gaps)
to the number shown on the box (remember to include the
international dialing code if youre using a foreign mobile). A
few minutes before your hour of paid parking runs out, youll
get a message to remind you to refresh your lease of the
space or move your car.
Taxis
The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 970. The starting
fee for a taxi trip is 20 kunas, with a 10 kuna fee added per
kilometre and 2.5 - 10kn added per each piece of luggage.
There is no additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in
front of most major hotels, Firule and Kriina hospitals, at the
ferry port, at the main bus station and near the Riva.
Port Authority
Towed away
Luka uprava (Split Port Authority) D-3, Gat sv.Duje
As evidenced by the empty parking spot that your car

previously occupied and that equally empty feeling you have
down in the pit of your stomach, you obviously didnt heed
our request to respect the parking laws of Split. Your ride has
been be towed away by what we refer to in English as the,
ahem, tow-truck; or, in Croatian, pauk (literally: spider) to the
car impound at Pujanke (F-2), so youll need to shell out 340kn
to retrieve it. Cash or credit card are accepted and the office
is open around the clock. Tel. 37 68 48.
1, tel. 33 82 62, lucka-uprava-split@st.t-com.hr, www.

portsplit.com. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Public transport
Split has bus lines numbered from 1 to 19. Day buses 1
through 18 run from 05:00 to 23:00. There is only one night
bus, number 19, which runs on Fridays and Saturdays. Maps
and schedules for each line can be found at their respective
stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 10kn or from
kiosks near each bus stop for 8kn. The company that operate
Train schedule
From Split
Days
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
Harbormasters office
Luka kapetanija (Harbormasters office) I-3, Obala
Dep.
07:38
10:54
15:10
20:50
22:10
Lazareta 1, tel. 34 55 00/ 36 24 36.
Splits buses is called Promet Split, so make sure the kiosk

has that name on it before trying to buy a ticket. If youre
trying to beat the system and riding without a ticket, the
penalty when caught (and you most certainly will be, buddy!)
is 50kn. Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is good for
one trip anywhere in the city. Sukoianska (D-2) is the main
station from which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omi, the
airport and other destinations outside of Split. Sukoianskas
ticket office operates from 06:00 to 20:00 on weekdays,
06:00 to 12:00 on Saturdays and is closed on Sunday. To
contact the Sukoianska station, dial 48 06 56. For general
information regarding bus services, call 40 79 99.
Promet Split E-1, Hercegovaka 20, tel. 40 78 88,
promet@promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.
Arr.
13:10
16:28
20:41
05:35
06:31
Destination
ZAGREB
ZAGREB
ZAGREB
ZAGREB
ZAGREB
ZAGREB
To Split
Days
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
Dep.
06:50
11:00
15:22
21:40
22:55
23:25
Arr.
12:20
16:42
20:55
05:48
06:55
07:59
Summer 2009
39
40
GEttinG aRound
Trains
Main train station J-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel.

060 33 34 44/ 33 85 25, www.hznet.hr. The main train
station is situated next to the bus station and doesnt offer
many possibilities to travel around, save for frequent trains to
Zagreb, from which you can connect to a load of other European
cities. The trip to Zagreb takes about eight hours, which in the
summer can be made a lot less tiresome by the weekend
disco train, on which passengers can enjoy the trip with dancing
and music. If you happen to be leaving on a night train from
Zagreb at 22:55 or a night train from Split at 22:10, theres
one more really handy service offered at the train station. If
you have a car or motorbike and dont feel like driving at night,
you can load your vehicle onto the train and collect it at your
destination for a fee of 186,30 - 266,30kn, plus the price of
a passenger ticket.
Road help
HAK (Croatian Auto Club) D-2, Starevieva 23,
tel. 987, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Breakdown and

towing service is available 24 hours a day.
For road information 24 hours a day dial 01 46 40 800;
during summer you can hear it on the radio in English,
Italian and German.
...Ferries and boats

From Split (SNAV highspeed ferry)
Days
1234567
( June 13 - September 06)
1234567
( June 13 - September 06)
From Split (BlueLine ferry)
Days
12345-7 (till July 23 & from
September 06)
----567 (July 24-26)
1234567
(July 27 - August 02)
----5-- (July 27 - August 02)
1234567 (August 03 - 09)
Dep.
17:00
17:00/19:00
Dep.
20:30
20:30
20:30 (Sat via Hvar)
10:30
20:30 (Sat via Vis,
Sun via Hvar)
----567 (August 03 - 09)
10:30
(Fri&Sun via Hvar, Sat
1234567 (August 10 - 27) 20:30
via Vis)
1----67 (August 10 - 27)
10:30
20:30 (Fri via Hvar,
----567 (August 28 - 30)
Sat via Vis)
12345-7
(August 31 - September 06) 20:30
From Vis (BlueLine ferry)
Days
Dep.
-----6- (August 08 - 30, not 23:30
August 29)
From Hvar-Stari Grad
(BlueLine ferry)
Days
Dep.
----5-- (July 24)
22:30
-----6- (July 27 - August 02) 22:30
----5-7 (August 03 - 27)
22:30 (Fri from August 14)
-----67 (August 03 - 27)
07:00 (Sun via Split)
From Split (Jadrolinija ferry)
Days
Dep.
-2-4--7 (June - July 09 &
21:00
September 04 -30)
-2-4-67( July 10 - Septem- 22:00(Sat&Sun via Stari
ber 03)
Grad)
----6- (June 01 - September
28)
-2---- (June 05 - September
25)
6:00(via Stari Grad-KorulaDubrovnik)

6:30(via Stari Grad-KorulaDubrovnik)
To Split
Days
1234567
Dep.
11:00
HVAR/PESCARA 1234567
10:30
Destination
ANCONA
Destination
ANCONA
ANCONA
ANCONA
ANCONA
ANCONA
To Split
Days
123456----567
1234567
----5-1234567
Dep.
20:30
20:30 (Fri via Hvar)
20:30 (Fri&Sat via Hvar)
10:30
10:30(Sat via Vis, Sun
via Hvar)
10:30(Sat via Vis, Sun
via Hvar)
20:30
ANCONA
----567
ANCONA
1234567
ANCONA
1----67
ANCONA
----567
ANCONA
12345620:30
To Vis
Days
Dep.
-----610:30 (via Split)
To
Hvar-Stari Grad
Days
Dep.
----5-20:30
(August 28)
----5620:30
----5620:30
------7
10:30 (via Split)
To Split
Days
Dep.
1-3-5-21:00
Destination
ANCONA
Destination
ANCONA
ANCONA
ANCONA
ANCONA
Destination
ANCONA
ANCONA
ANCONA
BARI
BARI
1-3-5-21:00
------7
11:30
--3---- (June 03 22:00
- September 30)
-----6-(June 06 - 23:59
September 26)
42
GEttinG aRound
GEttinG aRound
Travel agencies
Forgot your jock-strap?

From Split
(Jadrolinija catamaran)
Days
1234567
From Split
(LNP catamaran)
Days
1-3-5-1-3-5-------7
From Split
(LNP catamaran)
Days
12345-12345-(July - September 09)
12345------6-----6(July - September 09)
-----6------7
------7
----5-(July - September 09)
----5-----6From Split
(Jadrolinija ferry)
Days
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
From Split
(Jadrolinija ferry)
Days
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
Dep.
15:00/16:00/
17:00/17:45
Dep.
9:00
16:30
18:45
Destination
MILNA
MILNA
MILNA
Destination
ROGA(olta)
ROGA(olta)
Days
1-3-5-1-3-5-------7
Days
12345-12345--
Dep.
04:20/05:30/
06:30/07:30
Dep.
10:00
17:30
19:45
Dep.
14:30
20:00 (Fri via
STOMORSKA)
21:00 (Fri via
STOMORSKA)
14:30 (via
STOMORSKA)
20:00
21:00
20:45
22:15
20:00
21:00
14:30
ROGA(olta)
12345--
15:30
ROGA(olta)
-----6-
7:00
ROGA(olta)
ROGA(olta)
ROGA(olta)
ROGA(olta)
STOMORSKA(olta)
STOMORSKA(olta)
STOMORSKA(olta)
-----6-----6------7
15:45
15:45
21:30
----6----6------7
15:15(via Roga)
15:15(via Roga)
18:00
Dep.
01:30
(July 04-Aug 31)
05:00
08:30
11:00
14:30
17:00
20:30
Destination
STARI GRAD (Hvar)
STARI GRAD (Hvar)
STARI GRAD (Hvar)
STARI GRAD (Hvar)
STARI GRAD (Hvar)
STARI GRAD (Hvar)
STARI GRAD (Hvar)
Days
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
Dep.
05:30
07:45
11:30
14:00
18:00
20:00
23:00
(July 03-Aug 30)
To Split
Dep.
Destination
Days
06:45*
ROGA(olta)
1234567
09:15
ROGA(olta)
1234567
(July 03-Aug 31)
11:45
ROGA(olta)
1234567
16:15
ROGA(olta)
1234567
18:45
ROGA(olta)
1234567
21:15
ROGA(olta)
1234567
*till July 2 & from Sept 01, Sun & holidays 08:30
**till July 2 & from Sept 01, Sun & holidays 07:00
To Split
From Split
(Jadrolinija ferry)
Days (June 01 - July
02&Sept 01 - 30)
1234567
1234567
Dep.
09:30
16:30
Days (July 03 - Aug 31)

1-34567
1-34567
1-34567
-2-----2-----
09:00
15:00
21:00
09:30
16:30
To Split
Destination
Days
HVAR/VELA LUKA(KORULA)/ 123456UBLI(LASTOVO)
Destination
VIS
VIS
*Sun & holidays 07:00
VIS
VIS
VIS
VIS
VIS
Dep.
7:00
15:30
Dep.
05:30**
08:00
(July 03-Aug 31)
10:30
13:00
17:30
20:00
Adriatic Travel D-3, Jadranska 6, tel. 49 01 30/ 49 01

29, adriatic-travel@st.t-com.hr, www.adriatic-travel.hr.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Atlas D-3, Nepotova 4, tel. 34 63 33/ 34 30 55,
atlastours.split@atlas.hr, www.atlas-croatia.com. Q
Open 08:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun

18:00 - 20:00. A
F-tours putovanja J-2/J-3, Hrvojeva 1, tel. 34 48 42,
desk@f-tours.hr, www.f-tours.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00,
Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Galileo J-3, Kralja Zvonimira 14, tel. 54 22 33, info@
galileo.hr, www.galileo.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Generalturist I-3/J-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. 34 51
83, info@generalturist.com, www.generalturist.com.

From Makarska
(Jadrolinija ferry)
Days ( July 03 - Aug 31)
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
From Orebi
(Jadrolinija ferry)
Days
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
From Trogir
(Jadrolinija ferry boat)
Days
1234-61234-61234-6----5-----5--
Days
1234567
1234567
Dep.
05:30*
12:30
1-34567
1-34567
1-34567
-2-----2-----
Dep.
05:30
12:00
18:00
05:30
12:30
Split
telephone code is +385-21
------7/Holidays
------7/Holidays
------7/Holidays
From Split
(Jadrolinija ferry boat)
Days
----5--
Dep.
08:00
11:00
14:30
18:00
21:00
Dep.
00:30
04:00*
05:30
06:30
07:20
08:30
09:30
10:30
11:30
12:30
13:30
14:30
15:30
16:45
18:00
19:30
21:00
22:30
Dep.
09:30/09:40/
10:25/10:45
15:00/15:10/
16:00/16:20
20:30/*/
21:45/21:25
10:00/10:10*/
11:10/10:50
19.00/*/
20:15/19:55
09:00/*/
09:55/10:15
18:00/18:10/
19:00/19:20
20:30/*/
21:45/21:25
Dep.
15:30/17:15/
17:35
Destination
SUMARTIN(Bra)
SUMARTIN(Bra)
SUMARTIN(Bra)
SUMARTIN(Bra)
SUMARTIN(Bra)
Destination
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
DOMINE(Korula)
*not Sun & Holidays
To Makarska
Days
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
To Orebi
Days
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
Destination
Days
SEGET DONJI/DRVENIK VELI/
1234-6DRVENIK MALI
1234-6DRVENIK MALI
1234-6DRVENIK MALI
----5-DRVENIK MALI
----5-DRVENIK MALI
------7/Holidays
DRVENIK MALI
------7/Holidays
DRVENIK MALI
------7/Holidays
DRVENIK MALI
Destination
DRVENIK VELI/DRVENIK
MALI
Days
----5--
Dep.
06:00
09:30
13:00
16:30
20:00
Dep.
00:01
03:30*
05:00
06:00
07:00
08:00
09:00
10:00
11:00
12:00
13:00
14:00
15:00
16:00
17:30
19:00
20:00
22:00
Dep.
06:20/06:00/*/07:15
12:30/12:50/
13:35/13:45
19:00/19:20/
20:10/20:20
06:20/06:00/*/07:15
17:35/17:15/*/18:30
06:00/06:20/*/07:15
16:00/16:20/
17:10/17:20
19:20/19:00/*/20:15
Dep.
10:50/11:10/13:15
Summer 2009
43
44
GEttinG aRound
spoRt
Split Tours D-3, Gat sv.Duje bb, tel. 35 25 33,
booking@splittours.hr, www.splittours.hr. Q Open
07:30 - 20:30. A
Tarantela J-1, Domovinskog rata 27a, tel. 33 24 60/
33 24 59, tarantela@st.t-com.hr, www.tarantela.hr.
From Split
(Jadrolinija ferry)
Days
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
From Split
(Jadrolinija ferry)
Days
1234567
1234567
From Vela luka
(Jadrolinija ferry)
Days
1234567
1234567
1234567
From Ploe
(Jadrolinija ferry)
Days
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
From Drvenik
(Jadrolinija ferry)
Days
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
From Makarska
(Jadrolinija ferry)
Days (June 01 - July
02&Sept 01 - 30)
1234567
1234567
1234567
1234567
Dep.
05:15
06:15
07:45
09:00
10:30 (July 03-Aug 31)
11:15
12:45
14:15
14:30 (July 03-Aug 31)
16:45
18:00
19:15
21:00
23:59
Destination
SUPETAR (Bra)
SUPETAR (Bra)
SUPETAR (Bra)
SUPETAR (Bra)
SUPETAR (Bra)
SUPETAR (Bra)
SUPETAR (Bra)
SUPETAR (Bra)
SUPETAR (Bra)
SUPETAR (Bra)
SUPETAR (Bra)
SUPETAR (Bra)
SUPETAR (Bra)
SUPETAR (Bra)
Dep.
10:15
17:30
Destination
VELA LUKA(Korula)
VELA LUKA(Korula)
Dep.
09:30
13:45
20:45
Destination
UBLI(Lastovo)
UBLI(Lastovo)
UBLI(Lastovo)
Dep.
05:00(July 04-Aug 31)
07:30
10:15
12:30
15:00
17:30
20:00
Destination
TRPANJ
TRPANJ
TRPANJ
TRPANJ
TRPANJ
TRPANJ
TRPANJ
Dep.
Destination
05:45 (July 17-Aug 23)
SUURAJ
07:30
SUURAJ
09:00
SUURAJ
10:30
SUURAJ
12:00
SUURAJ
13:45
SUURAJ
15:45
SUURAJ
17:15
SUURAJ
19:00
SUURAJ
20:30
SUURAJ
22:30*
SUURAJ
*till July 2 & from Aug 31 23:00
**till July 2 & from Aug 31 22:15
To Split
Days
1234567
1234567
1234567
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To Split
Days
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To Vela luka
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To Ploe
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Dep.
05:00
06:30
07:45
09:00
10:30
11:45 (July 03-Aug 31)
12:30
14:00
15:30
16:30 (July 03-Aug 31)
18:00
19:30
20:30
22:45
Dep.
06:15
13:45
Dep.
04:30
11:30
17:30
Dep.
06:15
09:00
11:15
13:30
16:30
18:45
21:00 (July 03-Aug 30)
Dep.
05:00 (July 17-Aug 23)
06:30
08:15
09:45
11:15
13:00
15:00
16:30
18:00
19:45
21:30**
To Makarska
Dep.
09:00
12:30
17:00
20:00
Destination
SUMARTIN(Bra)
SUMARTIN(Bra)
SUMARTIN(Bra)
SUMARTIN(Bra)
*Sun & holidays 08:00
Days
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Dep.
06:00*
11:00
15:00
18:30
The Mrduja Regatta

Held on the first weekend of October (03-04) it is one
the oldest regattas in Europe, the island of Mrduja is the
turning spot or the assisting finish of the 22 mile route
SplitMrdujaSplit.
Split serves as the gateway to a landscape of staggering
beauty, with rugged mountain chains characterizing the
hinterland and offshore islands rich in unspoilt scenery. There
is a wide range of outdoor pursuits to enjoy, and adventure
sports are taking off in a big way.
Loomin g above
the resor t town
of Makarska, the
B i o k o vo r a n g e
offers Dalmatias
most challenging
hiking on its steep
sea-facing slopes, and mountain-biking opportunities on its
landward side. Theres also plenty in the way of well-mapped
biking trails on the islands of Bra, Hvar and Vis.
The Cetina river, which passes through a dramatic sequence
of gorges before emptying into the Adriatic Sea at Omi,
offers most in the way of adventure sports. Activity centres at
Radmanove Mlinice and Trilj organize an exhilarating variety
of rafting, kayaking, canyoning and biking excursions.
The mountainous topography of islands Bra and Vis provide
stunning locations for paragliding. Cavers can investigate
prehistoric remains at the Dragons Cave (Zmajeva spilja)
and Spiljski oltari, both on Bra.
Croatias most favourable breezes for windsurfing can be
found off the island resort of Bol, on the southern coast
of Bra.
Adventure sports
Adventure Dalmatia D-3, Matije Gupca 26, tel.
54 06 42/ 091 501 29 13, 091 526 38 13, www.

adventuredalmatia.com. Rafting and canyoning on the River
Cetina, sea kayaking around Hvar. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Akvatorij D-1, Put Supavla 21/III, tel. 45 95 45/ 091
313 21 20, 091 313 21 21, info@akvatorij.hr, www.
akvatorij.hr. Scuba diving.QOpen 09:00 - 14:30. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Alternatura Hrvatskih muenika 2, Komia, Vis, tel. 71
72 39, www.alternatura.hr. Paragliding.
Avanturist Club Hotel Sveti Mihovil, Trilj, tel. 83 17
90/ 098 65 78 29, www.svmihovil.com. Kayaking and
canyoning on the Cetina, mountain biking, horse riding.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Biokovo active holidays Kralja Petra Kreimira IV
7b, Makarska, tel. 67 96 55/ 098 22 58 52, biokovo@
biokovo.net, www.biokovo.net. Guided hikes and mountain
biking on the Biokovo massif, canyoning and kayaking on
the River Cetina, sea kayaking near Brela. QOpen 08:00
- 14:00.
Investigator tours D-2, Mauranievo etalite 8a,
tel. 32 16 98/ 098 25 04 85, 098 169 77 49, info@
investigator.hr, www.investigator.hr. Rafting, canyoning,
mountain biking, free climbing and paintball. QOpen 08:00
Radmanove Mlinice Poljiki trg 2, Omi, tel. 86 22
38/ 098 81 36 80, info@radmanove-mlinice.hr, www.
radmanove-mlinice.hr. Rafting and canyoning. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00.
SPK Marulianus D-2, Tonieva 1/2, tel. 091 529
59 90, info@marulianus.hr, www.marulianus.hr. Sport
climbing club. Q Working hours by arrangement.
Picigin
Among the numerous beaches around the city, there is
one, final name that sums up a true beach experience
in Split: Bavice. The citys main public beach is an
integral part of the lives of the people of Split, and
understandably so. Just minutes from the city center,
Bavice is a tree-lined beach complete with bars,
restaurants and cafs and marked by the blue flag
that is so often spotted around Croatia, signifying that
the water and environment surrounding the beach
meet stringent international quality standards. But
more than the natural aspects of the beach, Bavice
is beloved because of the large place it holds in the
overall fabric of the citys life. It is easy to imagine the
various parts of the drama of a Split residents life
taking place on this small strip of beach: clumsy baby
steps on the sand, learning to swim for the first time,
romantic walks along the beach and, most importantly
to some, games of the ubiquitous picigin played with
groups of rowdy friends. It is perhaps picigin, a sport
that was invented right in the waters of Bavice that
is the perfect illustration of the attitude and overall
feeling that exists at this special beach. The sport
is played by small groups of people who try, by only
using single touches from their their hands, to keep a
specially-made rubber ball aloft and out of the water
for as long as possible. The main characteristic of the
sport is that there are no opposing teams, no points,
no winners and no losers. It is played for the sheer
pleasure of being with ones friends while running
and diving through the shallow waters of Splits most
beloved beach.
Summer 2009
45
46
spoRt
Hall of fame
Ever since the Kaliterna brothers returned from Prague

University to form the Hajduk soccer team in 1911, sport
has played a crucial role in Splits identity. Hajduk has been
the focus of city-wide obsession for almost a century,
although it is the local basketball team (winning back-toback European trophies in 1989-1991) that has made a
more profound international mark. Split has produced its
fair share of individual champions, too.
High-jumping phenomenon Blanka Vlai is the current
golden girl of Croatian athletics, while four-times Wimbledon
finalist Goran Ivanievi remains a living symbol of the city
in which he was born.
Perhaps the most famous of all of Splits sports stars
is Goran Ivanievi. Born in Split in 1971, Ivanievi is
perhaps best known for being the only man in Wimbledon
history to win the championship as a wild card, as well as his
exceedingly powerful serve, which is still regarded as one of
the best in the history of the game.
Blanka Vlai did many a Croatian proud when she won
Croatia its first gold
medal in the World
Championship
in
Athletics in Osaka
in 2007. Vlai is
currently co-owner,
with
Bulgarian
Lyudmila Andonova,
of the record for the
second-best high
jump in history at
2.07m.
Fabjan Kaliterna helped found Splits Hajduk football club
in 1911 and was a cornerstone of Splits sports community
as he was an essential part in the creation of many sports
clubs and teams around the city.
Brother of Fabijan, Luka Kaliterna was a self-trained
goalkeeper who created his own innovative method of
playing goal. His techniques are still in use today and are the
base for training new players. He went on to become one of
Hajduks most famous and respected coaches.
Bernard Vukas was a Hajduk Split player with so many
achievements and accolades to his credit that one doesnt
know where to begin. He was born in Zagreb and joined
the Hajduk team in 1947. During the course of his Hajduk
career, he scored 300 goals and helped the team win the
Yugoslavian Championship in 1950, 1952 and 1950. Vukas
was the captain of the national team and represented
Yugoslavia 69 times in international play, racking up 20
goals in the process. In 1955, he donned the UEFAs colors
to play in their Continent versus Great Britain game; in this
game, Vukas scored a hat-trick as the Continental team
defeated Britain four goals to one.
Frane Matoi is undoubtedly one of the best players to
ever don the blue and white for Hajduk Split. He played in
739 games and scored a mind-boggling 729 goals, making
his scoring record seem insurmountable. To add to his
mystique, Matoi started his career with Hajduk when
he was just seventeen years old. As captain of Hajduk, he
commanded respect from teammates and opponents alike
and, for his scoring prowess and the silver medal he helped
secure in the 1948 London Olympics, Matoi was the
recipient of a lifetime achievement award from the city of
Split and the Croatian Olympic Committee.
Vladimir Beara was another legendary Hajduk and Crvena
zvezda goalkeeper whose goalkeeping prowess made his
teams winners time and time again. Between 1950 and
1960, he was on seven championship teams. In his career,
he represented Yugoslavia in fifty-nine games and three
world championships.
sHoppinG
Toni Kuko Starting his career with Splits all-conquering
Jugoplastika team in the 1980s, Kuko moved to Treviso in
Italy before becoming a member of an all-star Chicago Bulls
outfit that won the NBA title three times in a row during the
late 1990s. Kuko was a key player in Croatias silver medalwinning team at the 1992 Barcelona Olympics.
Dino Raa was another member of the golden Jugoplastika
generation who moved west, leading Virtus Roma to
European success before spending three seasons with the
Boston Celtics. He is currently president of KK Split.
Branko Radovi, widely known as the father of Split
basketball, he helped discover and shape new players
that reversed Splits basketball fortunes, turning them
into one of the best teams in Yugoslavia. His hard work
culminated in Splits victory at the 1971 Yugoslavian
championships. Radovi also represented Yugoslavia 35
times in international competition, including two European
championships.
One of Branko Radovis greatest discoveries was Rato
Tvrdi who captained the Split Jugoplastika team of
the Sixties and Seventies, winning two Yugoslavian
championships and three Yugoslavian cups in the process.
However, his winning ways werent limited only to Yugoslavia:
he won gold in the 1970 World Championship in Ljubljana;
two silvers in the Montevideo and Puerto Rico World
Championships in 1967 and 1974, respectively; two golds
in European championships; a gold in the Mediterranean
Games and a Balkan Championship.
Yet another Split basketball great was Petar Skansi, who
represented Yugoslavia in international play for five years.
His shining moment came at the World Championship in
Ljubljana when he was named one of the top five players
in the world.
urica Bjedov, a swimmer for Splits Mornar club, shocked
the city when she won two Olympic medals: a gold in the
100m breaststroke and a silver in the 200m breaststroke.
Miro Mihovilovi was a legendary goalkeeper for the Jadran
water polo club in Split. He represented Yugoslavia 22 times
in international matches and in 1934, in the European
Championship, was declared the best goalkeeper in Europe;
at the 1936 Olympic games in Berlin, he was hailed as the
best water polo goalkeeper in the world.
Duje Bonai, Mate Trojanovi, Petar egvi, Velimir
Valenta were rowers from the Gusar rowing club who went
on to win gold in the 1952 Helsinki Olympics in the coxless
fours event.
Deni Lui was a Split native and water polo sensation
who went on to represent Yugoslavia in 276 international
games and Croatia in 30 games, including winning gold for
Yugoslavia in the 1984 and 1988 Olympic games in Los
Angeles and Seoul. He was also one of the top club players
in Europe during the duration of his career.
Vegeta - Food Seasoning

This is basically a food seasoning. It is made from
vegetables, spices and salt and therefore has the
added bonus of being vegetarian oh you healthy
beast! And dont worry; MSG is in everything these
days anyway, as it is in this Croatian stuff and indeed
most of Central Europe. Remember how we raved
about the standard of the food in this country? Well,
now you have joined us in this appreciation we can
reveal the secret to you and that secret is Vegeta.
When you find that your pasta dish is unreasonably rich
and salty well then you know that the commis chef is
in need of extra training for his Vegeta shake.
Souvenirs
Cro fan shop - Hajduk I-2, Trogirska 10, tel. 34 30
96, www.cro-fan-shop.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. A
O la la! H-1, Plinarska 21, tel. 39 49 40/ 098 924 11
45, www.olala-split.com. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00
- 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Putnik Art I-2, Rodrigina 1, tel. 49 05 44/ 091 525 03
87, putnikart@yahoo.fr. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Unique Split J-2, Dioklecijanova 2, tel. 49 09 30, croker@croker.hr, www.croker.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00. A
Kravata - Necktie
Antiques
Antiques & Arts J-2, Bulieva 4, tel. 098 917 63 68.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. N
Art Galleries
Galerija Freska H-1, Plinarska 49, tel. 39 49 18,
imandaria@yahoo.com, www.galerija-freska.com. Q
Open 09:00 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
Galerija Mori J-1, Sinjska 7, tel. 34 51 31/ 091
515 73 57, galerija-moric@st.t-com.hr. Q Open 08:30
- 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Delicatessen
For any of you that are thinking about finding the

slightest hint of irony in the idea that an item of clothing
that almost single-handedly represents an uptight,
constricted lifestyle should come from passionate
Mediterranean climes, remember one thing the Croats
are kings and queens of fashion! Twas way back in
1635, amongst the large numbers of soldiers rolling into
Paris to fight against the nasty protestants in The Thirty
Years War were Croatian mercenaries from the coastal
regions. They wore coloured scarves around their necks,
which the French military thought a wonderful idea. They
were so much easier to keep clean than the lace frills
that were the norm in Gaul. Hence the new fashion was
taken up with enthusiasm and rapidly spread to the
rest of Europe the word for the original wearers: Hrvat
transforming on the non-Slavic tongue to Cravat. For
those of you that do not want to carry around a painful
reminder of that which awaits at the end of your holidays,
they make them in nice bright styles also.
Deliiicije Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7,

tel. 32 31 49, pitanja@deliiicije.com, www.deliiicije.
com. Q A
Enoteka Terra D-3, Prilaz brae Kaliterna 6, tel. 31 48
00, edicoposao@yahoo.com, www.vinoteka.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A
Izvorno ubieva 6, tel. 35 50 41, info@izvorno.hr,
www.izvorno.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Kra I-2, Narodni trg 6, tel. 34 61 38, www.kras.hr.
Oleoteka Uje J-2, Marulieva 1, tel. 34 27 19, info@
uje.hr, www.uje.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00
- 18:00. A
Vinoteka Bouquet C-3, Trg Franje Tumana 3, tel. 34
80 31, www.vinoteka.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:00
- 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Summer 2009
47
48
BusinEss diREctoRy
liFEstylE diREctoRy
Banks & Exchanges
English books & newspapers
Hypo Alpe Adria Bank E-3/F-3, Poljika cesta 39, tel.

43 41 00, www.hypo-aple-adria.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Algoritam I-2, Bajamontijeva 2, tel. 34 80 30, split@

algoritam.hr, www.algoritam.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30,
Podravska banka D-2, Ulica slobode 33, tel. 55 98 10/

060 20 20 20, kc-split@poba.hr, www.poba.hr. QOpen
International book shop I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog

narodnog preporoda 21, tel. 34 40 11. QOpen 08:00
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
- 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. N
08:00 - 16:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Privredna banka D-2, Ulica slobode 7, tel. 42 10 07/
0800 36 53 65, www.pbz.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat
07:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Splitska banka - Societe Generale Group Ruera
Bokovia 16, tel. 30 42 22/ 0800 33 32 23, www.splitskabanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Zagrebaka banka D-2, Gundulieva 26/A, tel. 35
23 00/ 35 22 22, www.zaba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30,
Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun.
Hospital
Bolnica Kriine F-3, oltanska 1, tel. 55 71 11.
Kliniki Bolniki Centar (Firule) E-3, Spinieva 1,
tel. 55 61 11.
24-hour pharmacies
Ljekarna splitsko-dalmatinske upanije Dobri
D-2, Gundulieva 52, tel. 34 80 74, ljekarnasplit@

ljekarnasplit.hr, www.ljekarnasdz.hr. QOpen 07:00
- 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. A
Ljekarna splitsko-dalmatinske upanije Luac
E-3, Pupaieva 4, tel. 53 31 88, ljekarnasplit@

ljekarnasplit.hr, www.ljekarnasdz.hr. QOpen 00:00
- 24:00. A
Dry cleaners & Laundries

Self Service Laundrette H-2, perun 1, tel. 31 58
88, www.lifejacketadventures.com. Self service: 25kn
- laundering, 20kn - drying and 5kn - cleaning powder. 75kn per
machine for leaving your clothes for them to do the job for you
(laundring, drying but not ironing). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Real estate
Arcadia J-2/K-2, Rokova 2, tel. 48 22 32/ 091 549 21
58, arcadia.nekretnine@st.t-com.hr, www.arcadiacro.
hr. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Benelli nekretnine D-2/E-2, Dubrovaka 3a, tel. 53
68 23/ 099 200 01 15, info@benelliestates.com, www.
benelliestates.com. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00, Sat 08:30
Consiliator J-2/J-3, Hrvojeva 10, tel. 36 02 60/ 091
198 03 03, consiliator@consiliator.hr, www.consiliator.
hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Trgostan J-2/K-1, Tolstojeva 32, tel. 34 31 05, 36
21 40/ 091 201 71 60, 098 89 17 69, trgostan@
trgostan.hr, www.trgostan.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Foreign representations
Denmark (Consulate) B-3, Supilova 10, tel. 35 84
88/ 091 358 48 88, fax 35 87 99, nenad.muskatelo1@

st.t-com.hr. Must make an announcement before you come.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.

Finland (Consulate) H-3, Trumbieva obala 5, tel./fax 34
52 75, tel. 091 339 12 12, milan.senjanovic@vip.hr, www.

finland.hr. Arrange a meeting over the phone.
Germany (Consulate) I-1, Svaieva 4, tel. 40 93 47, fax
48 64 01, d.konsul@honorarkonsulsplit.hr, www.zagreb.
diplo.de. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Chile (Consulate) E-1/E-2/F-1/F-2, Boktuljin put bb,
tel. 35 24 01, fax 35 24 07. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Italy (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog
preporoda 10/III, tel. 34 81 55/ 34 45 77, fax 36 12 68,
consolato.spalato@esteri.it, www.consspalato.esteri.it.
Q Open daily 09:00-12:00,Thr 09:00-12:00 and 15:30-17:30,
Sat and Sun cls.
Sweden (Consulate) K-1/K-2, Drieva 8, tel. 33 82 34,
fax 31 45 30. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Netherlands (Consulate) D-2, Mauranievo
etalite 1, tel./fax 31 23 99, silvanakondic@net.hr,
www.netherlandsembassy.hr. For rest of the week make
arrangement over the phone. QOpen 11:00 - 12:00. Closed
Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.
UK (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 10/III, tel. 34 60 07, fax 36 29 05, british-consulat-st@
st.t-com.hr, www.britishembassy.gov.uk/croatia. QOpen
08:00 - 15:30, Tue 08:00 - 19:00, Fri 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Lunch break daily from 13:00-14:00 except Fri.
Business connections
Croatian Chamber of Economy - Split Chamber H-3,
Ante Trumbia 4, tel. 32 11 00, hgkst@hgk.hr, www.
hgk.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Vets
Split - Dalmatia County Chamber of trades

and crafts Ruera Bokovia 28-30, tel. 47 01 14,
ok.split@hok.hr, www.hok.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00.
Veterinarska stanica Filipovi E-2, Kukuljevieva 1,
tel. 56 74 03/ 098 32 01 20, fax 56 76 67, veterina@

inet.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Veterinarska stanica Split E-2, ibenska 9, tel.
56 98 04, 56 97 89/ 099 216 99 61, fax 54 32
77, veterinarska.stanica.split@st.t-com.hr, w w w.
veterinarskastanica-split.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Summer 2009
49
50
split dalmatia county

Lovorka Maga
Castles of Split Dalmatia County

Visitors to the Split region shouldnt just restrict themselves
to the beach. Not only is the Dalmatian hinterland one of
the most dramatically beautiful parts of Croatia, it also
plays host to a multitude of crumbling fortresses and hilltop
castles. Given the regions turbulent history including
centuries of warfare between Croats, Ottoman Turks and
Venetians its no surprise that brooding battle-scarred
ruins form such a prominent part of the local landscape.
One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily
accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted
precariously on sheer cliffs just inland from Split. Theres
an excellent view of this fortress from the highway that
connects Split with the A-1 autocesta. Partially restored and
now an outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted
from the road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the
fortress and soak in the great views in every direction.There
is a caf right below the fortress.
Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first
mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th
century. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area
but never succeeding in taking the fortress.The Ottoman
Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking
Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally
evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you visit Klis you
will see why it was fought over so fiercely. Anyone occupying
the fortress could control passage through the rather
narrow mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland.
Between Split and Trogir, 20 km to the west, lies a sequence
of seven small towns known collectively as Katela
(Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive
along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs
directing you to them (Katel Gomilica, Katel Suurac,
Katel Kambelovac, etc.). Most were constructed in the
16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or
the Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check

out their interesting architectural features. All are accessible
by car. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Trogir, an
island town, has its own castle fortress, too, right on the
waterfront. Kamerlengo Citadel was built in the 15th century
and has been well restored. Trogirs Venetian heritage (the
Venetians held sway there for three and a half centuries
starting in 1420) is clearly evident from the towns lovely
architecture.
If you go 21 km in the opposite direction (southwest) on
route 8 from Split you will reach Omi, which is located at
the mouth of the Cetina River. There are the ruins of two
castle/fortresses above the town that have spectacular
views.The lower of the two, Mirabela, is accessible by about
300 steps from ubi Street in the centre of town. There
is a gate about a quarter of the way up that is sometimes
inexplicably locked. Ask at the towns tourist office first and
theyll probably send someone to unlock it. From the top
of Mirabelas tower keep theres a sweeping view of Omi,
the river, the sea, and the steep sided mountains that form
the sides of the canyon. Its believed that the Kai family,
feudal lords of Omi during the 12th and 13th centuries, built
Mirabela in the early 1200s. Pirates used Mirabela as their
lair during medieval times. The Venetians acquired Omi in
1444 and over time expanded and refortified the redoubt.
Fitness buffs can be rewarded with an even more panoramic
view by hiking from the center of Omi to Starigrad (also
called Fortica), a fortress/castle about 500 meters above
the town. The hike takes about two hours on a marked trail,
which begins on the road to the village of Borak. The turn off
to Borak is on the south edge of the Omi town center. You
can also drive part of the way up to Starigrad, making sure
to go straight (dont turn right) when you reach the fork in the
road. From that point it is a 45 minutes climb. Fortica was
built by another Croatian noble family, the Nelipis, probably
in the 14th century. It was one of a series of coastal forts
expanded by the Venetians during their centuries-long
struggle against the Turks. Gun bastions and emhrasures

are still clearly visible in the walls, the perfect spot for
imagining that you are a defender on the battlements! There
are plenty of good hotels and eateries in Omi, which is a
major tourist center. Its a shame that most visitors never
venture beyond the beach.
From Omi take the road on the south side of the Cetina
River 18 km to reach Zadvarje. There is one good view
after another as this road winds through the canyon. There
is a fortress with the same name just beyond the water
treatment plant above Zadvarje. Unfortuately power lines
above the ruin somewhat mar the atmosphere, but its still
worth checking out Zadvarjes massive walls. Built by the
Venetians between 1478 and 1482, Zadvarje was captured
and refortified by the Turks in 1502. There is a myth that the
ghost of Murat, the Zadvarje Turkish bey who was bloodied
by a local girl he assaulted, roams the castle walls during
full moon.
Our next stop on the county castle tour is Imotski, 38
km from Zadvarje by routes 39 and 60. Imotski is remote
into the Dalmatian hinterland, a place where locals think
nothing of stopping their car in the middle of street in town
to chat with their friends, not worrying about a trifling traffic
jam that might develop. Another distinctive feature of this
hilltop town is its two sinkhole lakes, the Blue Lake and the
Red Lake. Sheer cliffs tower 150 meters above the Blue
Lake, which is just above the Imotski town center. It takes
about 10 minutes to climb up the stone steps to Topana
Castle, perched at the top of the cliffs.There is a great view
of the coastal mountains from the ramparts of the castle,
the location of which was probably first used for defensive
purposes by the Romans.
Topana is first mentioned in written records around 950.
From 1322 the castle fortress was under the ownership of
several Croatian-Bosnian noble families.The Turks conquered
Imotski in 1493, transforming it into an important seat of
local government and refortifying the castle. It wasnt until
1717 that the Venetians pushed the Turks out, but Imotski
continued to mark the border with the Ottoman Turkish
Empire. Battles continued for another decade, resulting in

substantial damage to the castle. It was reconstructed in
the early 19th century, by which time it no longer served a
military purpose. There are several hotels and restaurants
in Imotski.
On the way from Zadvarje bonafide castle fanatics might
want to follow highway 62 to the hilltop town of Vrgorac,
which is very near to the border with Bosnia-Herzegovina.
There is a nicely restored castle above the town centre,
accessible via an unusually well marked trail in about 15

20 minutes. Theres a wonderful view in every direction
from the castle.
Only 10 km north and west of Imotski on a secondary (but
paved) road is the village of Donji Proloac. Badnjevice
Castle/fortress is spectacularly situated on a rocky peak
above the village. First mentioned in written records from
the 12th century, its hard to imagine how it could have been
built there, but it certainly commands a good view of the
surrounding region. Only the hardiest of climbers should
attempt to reach this ruin. There are no marked trails, and
probably the best alternative would be to enlist the help of a
local to guide you up the steep, rocky slope.
About 80 km north and west from Imotski via route 60
and then a turn off from route 220 is the small village of
avina. Its easy to spot the castle ruin and a church at the
top of a hill above the village. Its an easy, 10 minutes ascent
to the castle. There are spectacular views in every direction
from avina, which sits at an elevation of 707 meters. The
Nelipi family built avina in 1371.
The Turks overan this fortress in the mid 16th century, and
it was not until about 150 years later that the Venetians and
Croats evicted them. In ancient and medieval times avina
sat at the crossroads of major trading routes, but today it
is very much off the beaten track. Visitors may not be able
to get an espresso there, but avinas remoteness is one
of its charms.
The largest town of the Split Dalmatia County hinterland is
Sinj, which is only 20 km northwest of avina or 34 km
north of Split via a well marked road. The castle fortress
above Sinj is worth a look. You can drive there. Like the rest
of Dalmatia, Sinj has had a very turbulent history. During
the century before and for several centuries after the birth
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of Christ the Romans fought with several tribes in the area.
Sinjs fortifications are first found in written records in about
the year 950. Its believed the exsiting fortress was built
in the 14th century. The Turks captured Sinj in 1536 and
refortified the castle. The Venetians pushed the Turks
out in 1686, and the following year a famous image of
the Madonna known as the Lady of Sinj (Sinjska Gospa)
was returned to Sinj. In August 1715 the Turks attempted
to retake the Sinj fortress. Although outnumbered, the
inhabitants of Sinj defeated the Turks after a week-long
battle. The defendents were convinced that the presence
of the Madonna painting help them to thwart their more
powerful adversaries. The Feast of the Assumption (Velika
Gospa; August 15) is, therefore, especially significant for
the residents of Sinj, which has several hotels and many
restaurants.
About 15 km northwest of Sinj lies the village and fortress
of Potravlje (also known as Potravnik or Travnik). It
commands a stupendous view of coastal mountains to the
west, high peaks in Bosnia and the valley occupied by 30
km long Lake Peruko to the north. To reach Potravlje you
take Route 1 north from Sinj. After about 10 km you turn
west (left) on a paved road; there is a sign pointing the way
to Satri. After 5.3 km you will see a pink house on the right
and on the left a line of cypress trees. Turn left at that point
and go about 500m, where you can park in the middle of
the village and walk up the hill to the castle ruins. There is
no discernable trail but it is not too difficult to bushwack
through the low scrub brush and grass. Like avina,
Potravlje is a rustic but lovely spot.
Potravnik was probably constructed by the Nelipi dukes
in the 14th century. It is first mentioned in written records
in 1372. The Turks attacked the fortress in 1522 and at
first were not successful in taking it. Only after plugging
the sources for the castles water wells, thereby cutting
off the defendents water supply, were they able to capture
it. The Venetians pushed the Turks out in the late 17th
century. Another 22km along route 1 is the town of Vrlika.
Prozor castle sits prominently above the town, which is at
the opposite end of Lake Peruko from Potravlje. Partially
restored, Prozor has an equally spectacular view of the lake
and mountains to the east and west. To reach the castle go
from the town church 1.5 km up the road towards Maovica
and Drni. There is a dirt road passable with four wheel drive
or a 20 25 minute walk up a not very steep hill to the
castle.
The Hrvatini family built Prozor Castle in the early 1400s.
As with other towns in the this area, the Ottoman Turks
captured the fortress in 1523 and held it until the Venetians
expelled them nearly 200 years later. The town witnessed
an invasion much more recently as well. During the Balkan
Wars of the early 1990s Vrlika was held by the so-called
Republic of Serb Krajina for four years. During Operation
Storm the Croatian Army pushed the Serbs out in August
1995.The large Adriatic islands of Bra, Hvar and Vis also
lie within Split Dalmatia County, and there is no shortage of
alluring castles in those places, either. A restored fortress
overlooks Hvar Town and provides a nice view of the
offshore string of Pakleni Islands. You can drive up to the
fortress or climb up in a few minutes from the town center.
There is an interesting tower made of gigantic stone blocks
(shown as Tor on some maps) above the town of Jelsa.
One marvels about how those huge blocks could have
been raised to such a height and pointed so neatly so many
centuries ago. The tower is accessible in about 20 30
minutes via a marked trail ascending from a dirt road that
runs from the village of Humac (on route 116) to the tunnel
entrance. From the tower there is a breathtaking view of
Bra Island to the north. A fortress on the same ridge about
a kilometre to the east also is clearly visible. If you have
binoculars you may be able to spot the naturist beaches on
Jerolim and Stipanska islands off the coast. Bra, too, has
a number of castles and fortresses in its coastal villages
and interior. For details please see the article about Bra
activities in this issue of In Your Pocket.
Islands
olta
Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to
have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis
courts, olta is located about nineteen nautical miles from
Split, just west of Bra. The island is another of those special
places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life
has been largely maintained to the present day. This means
that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys
are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in the
eight villages on olta might strike visitors as unusually kind,
inviting and warm. It also
means that the pace of
life is markedly slower
than in other places in
Dalmatia, which is quite
a feat in itself. This slow
pace of life is an ideal
environment in which
to enjoy the benefits
of the island, not the
least of which is the
main produ ct o f th e
island, fish. The islands
fisherman can be seen
leaving in the morning
and returning with the
days catch, which is
then prepared for the evenings meal and accompanied by
some excellent homemade wine, both of which will be on hand
for you to sample in abundance. As we know, however, man
does not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little
adventure from time to time and olta has that to offer, as
well. The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play
perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing,
and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive
groves and vineyards that supply the islands other principal
products. In short, olta is a nice mix of atmosphere, nature
and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or as a
short stay. Either way, theres something for everyone.
Bra
What to do on the island of Bra in One Day, Three days
or One Week
Bra, the Croatian Adriatics third largest island, offers
spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain
of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split,
retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town,
Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Bra by Jadrolinija
car/passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on
the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which
is on the northwest.
If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatias most
famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). Its a point jutting
out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the
Bra. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the

summer, especially with younger people. Its also a popular
spot for windsurfing. If youd prefer a less frenetic bathing
experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenina Bay, which
is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Bras north side.
There are great views of the mainland mountains from there
as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the
beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach,
you should head for krip, a small, picturesque village located
on a plateau almost in the middle of Bra.
krip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia
are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture
and mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the
Middle Ages. krips Museum of Bra contains many
ancient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, including
a relief of Hercules.
Assuming your schedule allows a three day visit to Bra, you
could extend your activities from whats listed above to the
following. There is a beautiful late 15th century Dominican
monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in Bol. Its museum
has a collection of ancient Greek and Cretan artifacts as
well as a Tintoretto painting of the Madonna and Child
dating from 1563. An even more interesting monastery to
visit, especially if you like to hike, is the Hermitage of Blaca
(Pustinja Blaca), founded in 1588 by monks fleeing the
Turks. Perched on the side of a steep sided canyon about
half way between the sea and the summit of Bras highest
peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca indeed is a perfect place to hide.
You can hike to the monastery either up a trail that begins
near the coastal village of Murvica (west of Bol), or down
from another trail that starts from a dirt track on the flank
of Vidova Gora. To reach the trailhead you go 6 km on that
track, which begins 1 km from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on
the Supetar to Bol road. If you dont have an SUV you run the
risk of ruining your vehicles suspension. Both trails are well
marked, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours

for the round trip hike and bring plenty of water. You will be
rewarded with great views plus Blacas ascetic architecture
and splendid isolation.
Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit
of Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island,
2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive
there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off
on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nereia.
The views from the peak are terrific. If you like scuba diving
and snorkeling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol
that rent equipment and organize dive cruises. Its easy to
spend a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the
Croatian Adriatic.
If you are going to be on Bra for a week theres much
more you can do. Land lubbers and aquatic types alike
can spend several pleasant days exploring the attractive
coastal villages of Bra. Just trying to pronounce their
names should prove interesting. These include Sutivan,
Bobovia, Loia and Milna on the east side of the
island; Splitska, Postira, Puia and Povlja on the north
side; and Selca and Sumartin on the east. All of them have
a medieval atmosphere in their old quarters, with narrow,
cobblestone alleys winding up from the seafront; nearly all
stone buildings with green shutters; medieval fortress towers
built for defense against pirates and the Turks; and centuries
old churches. The views offshore are wonderful, and there
are plenty of outdoor cafes and restaurants from which to
soak them up. Olive tree orchards and wild olive trees cover
a significant portion of Bra, and there are many small-scale
olive oil producers. You will see lots of signs advertising fresh,
extra virgin olive oil (ekstra djeviansko maslinovo ulje) for
sale. There are even agro-tourism offers for olive picking;
check with a travel bureau about where that is possible.
Bra white marble has been exported all over the world. Its
claimed that Bra marble was even used in the construction
of the American White House. And of course, it was used
in the building of many local houses. You will see several
quarries as you drive about the island, and they are
accessible - a tort lawyers dream.
There are two caves worth exploring on Bra: Zmajeva

(Dragon) and Kopaina. Theyre located between Supetar
and Donji Humac.
Even if you had more than a week to spend on Bra you
wouldnt suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend
many more days just driving around or relaxing on the beach,
soaking up the scenery.
Restaurants
Villa Gumonca, Mirca-Supetar, tel. 63 02 37 / 095
905 42 92.
Konoba Kopaina, Donji Humac bb, tel. 64 77 07.
Agritourisam Rojen, Uvala Luke- Puia, tel. 098
867292.
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Hvar

Lovorka Maga
You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to
Stari Grad (Jadrolinija Stari Grad, tel. 76 50 48) or, there
is a faster catamaran route that goes to Jelsa and Hvar city.
If youre a little south of Split, you can still reach Hvar if you
hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south of Makarska). This
ferry heads to Suuraj on the island of Hvar (Jadrolinija
Hvar, tel. 74 11 32). If youre coming from the north, you
can also get to Hvar along the coast with a line from Rijeka
to Dubrovnik which makes a stop in Hvar city.
Things to see and do: Hvar is without a doubt, one of the
most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. It extends out in an
east-west direction and on its southern-south-western coast
there are a number of small islets and islands. Along its
northern side there are only two islands, Zeevo i Duga.
A m o n gs t t h e s e i s l a n d s , t h e
most numerous are the Pakleni
islands which are in the immediate
vicinity of Hvar city. Due to its
distinctive vegetation, these islands
landscapes are protected.
The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands)
got their interesting name from a
little known fact...tar and resin used
for coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.
The western side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains
fields and small towns.
Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers with
medieval fortresses panjol (from 1551) and Napoleon (built
by the French in 1810) and their hilltop fortressed walls,
located high above, atop St Nicholas, offering a splendid view
of below. The prison dungeon inside the panjol Fortress is
quite impressive and if you take a peek below, its easy to
imagine the sounds of the prison guards bringing food to the
prisoners along the narrow dungeon walls, not to mention the
despairing sounds of the the prisoners! Going around Hvar,
youll encounter historical charm with the Renaissance St
Stephens Cathedral (16-17th century) styled by domestic
masters Karli i Pomeni and the centre of the old part of
town has a 15th century form. On the northern slope above
the square are the partially preserved inner city walls of the
noble Hvar palace. On the southern slope in the cemetery
is the former Augustinian church of St Michael (Sv Mikule),
dated from the early 15th century. On the eastern side of
town, outside the city walls lies the 16th century Renaissance
summer villa of Hanibal Luci, a Croatian poet. On the corner
between two bays is the Franciscan monastery with church of
Our Lady of Mercy (1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary
for sailors. Inside this church is a museum with a valuable art
collection, the most precious work being the Last Supper.
Under the main altar lies the grave of Hanibal Luci. Hvar
also has an armoury with the most monumental sculpture of
civil architecture (1579-1611) atop an older one from 1331.
Located under a huge vault stood a warehouse for the Hvar
galley. On the floor above is the public theatre of Hvar from
1612, one of the oldest in Europe which was commissioned
by the knight Pietro Semitecolo. The Benedictine monastery
in Hvar is well known for its craftesmanship of unique lace
hewn from agave fibres.
Hvar is by far the sunniest island in the Adriatic and it falls
under one of the ten most beautiful islands in the world. The
scent within Hvar is difficult to avoid with fields upon fields of
lavender, heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and
fragrant experience. The mountainous areas from Brusje to
Hvar presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations
of lavender on the island. A longer stay on Hvar will give you
the opportunity for a thorough exploration.
Restaurants
Macondo, Groda bb, Hvar, tel. 74 28 50.
Konoba Menego, Groda bb, Hvar, tel. 74 20 36.
Vidikovac Levanda, Velo Grablje bb, tel. 021784 52 49.
Luna, Petra Hektorovia 1, Hvar, tel. 74 14 00.
Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on

a route which passes alongside the island and todays ferry
port. The oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in
Europe, it has been around since 384-385 B.C. Located here
is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorovi and the Early
Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan).
Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first
hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points
of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum.
It came into existence around the chapel of St John of the
Fields which was formed around a square and its current
look harks back to between the 17th and 19th centuries.
The churches of St Fabian and Sebastian are also in Jelsa.
If you set out on a journey into the interior of the island
not far from Jelsa, youll come across the small villages of
Pitve, Vrisnik and Svire, which will bewitch you with their
appearance and peacefulness.
Only 7km east of Jelsa, youll find the abandoned village
of Humac. The houses were built of polecat fur and
stone and theyre completely unique in their entirety of
rural architecture. Below Humac is the Grapeva cave,
the most vital prehistoric findings from the Neolithic era,
5000-4000 B.C.
Split beaches
Bavice: just east of the Riva. Usually very busy.
njan: in the southeast, its a long beach thats only
used for swimming and sunning.
Katelet and Kauni: both of these are on the Marjan
peninsula and are especially beautiful and wild.
South to Omi: there are beaches in every village on
this stretch of the coast and just off the road. These
are highly recommended options for your swimming,
especially if you dont like having a lot of humans all over
the place. The road trip can be frustrating however for
its great traffic.
North: easily to travel to these roadside beaches via car,
theyre all over the place and make for great swimming.
Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth of

the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They call
Vrboska Little Venice due to its small bridges with which
it is connected. There is also a Fishing Museum which is
worthy a look in as is fort church of St Mary of Charity from
the 16th century. This fort church was built in defence of
the invading Turks of the time. Hidden inside the Baroque
church of St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) is a bona fide art treasure
attributed to the Renaissance masters Tiziano Vescelius,
Paolo Cagliari aka Veronese, Jacob de Ponte Bassano,
Giuseppe Albardia, Antonio Scuri, Tiziano Aspetti and the
filigree artist Benvenuto Cellini.On the northern part of the
island and near the city of Hvar is Lozna Beach, then Basina
beach not far from Vrboska, and the beaches of Pokrivenik,
Zaraa and Virak beside Gdinja. To head to the southern
side of the island you must pass through a natural tunnel
(hollowed out of live stone) beside a place called Pitve on
the southern side up to Ivan Dolac. Youll come across a
gorgeous view of islands edro, Korula and half-island
Peljeac before exiting the tunnel. Until recently the tunnel
functioned via a telephone at both ends. With a call youd
know if there was a car waiting to enter from the other end
but now there is a traffic light in place. The locals dug out the
tunnel so they could get from one side of the island to the
other. When you pass the tunnel youll get to the southern
side of the island which is beautiful and on which vineyards
grow abundant with the Plavac Mali (Small Blue), located in
Sveta Nedelja, Zavala. On this southern side of the island
you can bathe on the Jagodna and Bojani beaches which
are situated between Sveta Nedelja and Ivan Dolac, so too
are the Jedra, Srhov Dolac, Skozanje and Vela Luica
beaches.The islands eastern side lies the small port of
Suuraj which is also the starting point of the mainland ferry
service (Suuraj-Drvenik line).
Suuraj was settled in the mid 15th century. The oldest and
well preserved building there is the old Augustinian (and
now Franciscan) monastery. Also partially preserved is the
old Venetian fort from 1613. Nearby toward the south is the
sandy esminica beach and Bilina on the northern side.
The islands mountains arent quite high, however, with their
coastal mounts and marvellous sea views they are ideal for
any hikers aspirations. The possibility of sailing, mountain
hiking, trekking are promising (contact Hvar Adventure, tel.
71 78 13), as too for diving (Marinesa, tel. 74 17 92 or
Viking, tel. 74 25 29).
Hvar along with the island Vis, are the hub of winery in these
areas, whose history stretches back far into the past. Hvar
possesses a number of autochthonous sorts of wines
- Bogdanua and Drenkua which can never be found
anywhere else. The southern side of the island is ideal for
the cultivation of Plavac Mali due to its sunny hillsides which
give the wine its high quality. Renowned wine estates include
Plenkovi, whose cellars provide the high quality wine
Zlatan Plavac (Grand Cru 2003), the Tomi wine estate
where you can find Hektorovi proek (sherry) (Plavac Mali
Barrique 2003), the Dubokovi estate (Medvid 2003), the
Cari estate (Plavac Ploki Barrique 2005), the Plani,
Vujnovi and P.Z Svire estates.
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Vis
The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine

areas in the Adriatic. Due to its many years of enclosure and
forbidden zones for foreigners in the Communist Yugoslavia,
the islands nature has largely remained untouched and
unmarred, surrounded by watery waves of indescribable
beauty.
The most attractive is the archipelago around the southeast
coast of Vis, then around the western coast, the islets of
Bievo, Brusnik and Sveti Andrija (St Andrew), and in
the east, Suac.
Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its
fair distance from the mainland. However, its an excellent
opportunity to spend a few days to get a good sense of its
beauty, or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms.
The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or
catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a
car, you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip
takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be
purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets
can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency (tel. 71 10 32).
The two largest areas on the island, Vis and Komia, are
connected with a bus line. The main bus station is located
at the ferry stop, on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets are
purchased on the bus and are only valid for one way travel
(fare 20kn). For those who get off the bus in Komia, there
is always a bus connection for Vis tied in with the ferry
departures for Split. For all further information related to
the island of Vis, contact Vis Tourist Board tel: 71 70 17
tzg-visa@st.t-com.hr or Komia Tourist Board tel. 71 34 55
tzg-komize@st.t-com.hr.
Things to see and do: The best
way to experience Vis is to go
about it with abandon and without
a plan. Endeavour to taste the
gastronomic delights by which Vis
is known or, lounge around on the
marvelous beaches at the small
bay Stiniva (the prettiest sandy
beach on the island, 10km north
from the town of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac and
Zaglav. Also, dont miss the chance to meander around the
renaissance summer villas, Titos cave above Podpilja or
the ruins of the ancient city.
Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina

(Medvjedina Cave) on Bievo, and the Zelena pilja (Green
Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldnt be the marvel
that it is. And if you have time, take a trip to Palagrua island
and enjoy a true marine experience!
Its worth engaging in a gastronomic adventure on the island

of Vis, for the island is known as the island of sweetness.
It has a unique way of preparing sardines (srdele), a fish
stew served with soft polenta and fagioli beans (brudet),
young goat grilled Dalmatian style (kozletina na gradelima),
artichokes with broad-beans and peas (artioke sa bobom
i biima), octopus in red wine (hobotnica u crnom vinu),
crispy little cakes which have a two month shelf-life due to
one exceptional ingredient (cviti), a Christmas cake (hjib)
which is prepared for guests all year round and contains
dried figs mixed with the essence of the grape and fennel
spirits. And, lets not forget the islands charming wines,
Vika Vugava and Plavac. By the way, the delicious and
most popular spirits on the island of Vis include flavours of
carob, rose, sage and fennel.
Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia.

One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek
colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The
ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of
the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and
you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological
Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress
Gospina batarija (Our Ladys Battery) also known for its
large collection of amphorai and more notably for its bronze
head of the Greek godess Artemis.
The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the
churches of Sv.Ciprijana (St Ciprian) and the Holy Spirit, the
Franciscan monastery on the half-island of Prirovo and the
sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja.
Komia, is a fishing village located at the southern end of the
island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also
houses the Fishing Museum. The main church in Komia, the
church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village offering
a spectacular view of below.
The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the
township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone
huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komia. Dragodid is
interesting because it is one of the rare preserved villages
which has conserved its exceptional form.
Restaurants
Restoran Pojoda, Don Cvijetka Marasovia 8, (meaning
a calm, safe port in the islands dialect) tel. 71 15 75,
Villa Kaliopa, V.Nazora 32, tel. 71 17 55 in the town
of Vis. Doruak kod Tihane, Obala sv. Jurja bb, tel. 71
84 72 translates as Breakfast at Tihanas, a charming
restaurant on the Vis water front. Pizza Karijola,
etalite viki boj 4, tel. 71 14 33 woodfire oven pizza.
Jastoera, Gundulieva 6, tel. 71 38 59 in Komia, where
you can select your lobster fresh from its swimming tank
which is located adjacent to the terrace of the tavern.
Konoba pol murvom, tel. 71 51 17 which is located in
the womans head (ena Glava) in inner Vis. Konoba
Stonica, Uvala Stonica 1, tel. 71 16 69 located in the
bay of the same name and Konoba Bako, Gundulieva
1, Komia, tel. 71 37 42.
Surroundings
Makarska Riviera
A stay in the Riviera offers all of the things you can find on
any normal Croatian holiday (lovely nature, crystal clear water,
etc.), along with a few added bonuses that might make it
particularly attractive for some visitors. The first of these
things might be the Rivieras namesake, the city of Makarska.
The main highlight of this small coastal city might well be its
promenade, the palm-lined Marineta street, where cafs,
bars and shops keep watch over the nearby harbour. The
citys horizon is dominated by nearby Biokovo, a must-see
for visitors to Makarska. At 1762 metres, Biokovo is the
highest mountain in Dalmatia and is marked with over thirty
hiking trails of varying difficulty and abounds with caves, the
remains of ancient villages, all sorts of wildlife scampering
about and even a botanical garden, making it an absolute
haven for hiking enthusiasts. From the top of the mountain on
a clear day, you can see every island in Dalmatia stretching
out beneath you.If thats not enough to satiate your travel
hunger, the rest of the Riviera is dotted with a number of tiny,
quiet towns that are numerous enough to avoid becoming
bogged down by the summer tourist explosion. Towns such
as Baka voda, Podgora and Gradac could be ideal stopping
points on a meandering trip through the Riviera, with plenty of
time taken to soak up the sun, laze on beautiful beaches and
get to know a bit about life in each place along the way.
Omi
Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croatia and Bosnia
and Herzegovina, the Cetina River winds a tortuous course
through the countryside until finally emptying into the Adriatic.
The mouth of the river passes through an impressive gorge
and near the small Dalmatian city of Omi, a quiet and
picturesque city that is the center of what has become known
as the Omi Riviera. However, things were not always so
quiet. Omi gained initial notoriety because of a band of
pirates, the Omiki gusari or Corsairs of Omi, that patrolled
the waters in the area in special boats called arrows, so
named for their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily
into the mouth of the river.
While its true that today yachts are more likely to be seen
cruising the waters of the Omi Riviera than a group of fasttraveling pirate ships, theres still plenty of adventure to be
had in Omi. The mountainous areas around the city make
for great hiking spots, the water is an inviting crystalline
blue and the history of the town can be explored in the
remnants of fortresses (like Mirabela, which the Corsairs of
Omi used to defend the city against attacks from Turkish
invaders), churches and other structures dating back as far
as the 13th century. And when youre finished exploring the
natural beauty of the city and its history, the citys central
location makes it a perfect starting point for the rest of your
Dalmatian coast adventure, hopefully minus any dreams of
terrorizing the seas as a modern-day Corsair of Omi.
Solin
Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres
outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and
the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman
settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of
its primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace
of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now,
erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days
there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianitys
early history. According to the Bible, Pauls student Titus
traveled to the region and, because of its sea connections
with Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would
have attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event,
the citys role as crossroads of cultures and religions left
behind an archaeological legacy that has earned the city
the title of Croatias Pompeii.
U ntil re centl y, S olin
depended on its
cement and asbestos
factories as its principal
industries, which did
little to enhance the
image of the city. Today,
d u e to exc ava ti o n s
exposing the remains
of the former Roman
ci t y located nearby,
tourists from Trogir and
Split are giving the city a
much-needed economic
b oost. I n tu rn, th ey
receive the possibility
to stroll among ancient
ruins that are over two
th ousand years old.
I n re sp on s e to th i s
increase in tourism,
Solin has dedicated
itself to highlighting and
preserving its natural
attractions as well. The
River Jadro has been
carefully preserved and
is dotted with loads of green areas that are a pleasure to
stroll through as well, especially if youre not thrilled by the
idea of exploring ancient ruins. In the end, Solin makes for a
lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir and, considering the wealth
of history ready to be explored there, just might be one of
the best-kept travel secrets in the country that is just slightly
off the beaten path.
Summer 2009
57
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stREEt REGistER
Trogir
Similar to Split, its neighbor city just a short distance away,
Trogir is yet another Croatian city that possesses incredible
historical and architectural traditions, both of which have
been built upon by a progression of generations during
the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogirs old
town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and
Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with
modern stores and shop fronts, making the city a fascinating
amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras.
Lovorka Maga
Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the

island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region
until well into the Roman era, when its importance was
diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other
coastal Croatian cities, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series
of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of
subservience to outside governments, with the city finally
coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.
While the former rulers of the region were interested in
Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today are
interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the
citys old town. Of particular importance are the churches
and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Dukes
palace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps
most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the
Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and Trogir native,
created the intricate entryway to the cathedral in 1240.
The cultural and historical significance of the town and its
architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the United
Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization)
added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites,
marking the beginning of a new era in Trogirs history. While
traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and fishing,
this new era of the citys development will almost definitely
be focused on tourism, as Croatias coast becomes an
increasingly popular destination for tourists from around
the world.
A. Cesarca C-3
Ante Petravia E-1/F-1
Antuna Branka imia E-3
Arapova C-2, H-2
Babina C-3, H-3
Bakotieva C-2
Ban Mladenova C-3/D-3, H-2
Ban Berislavieva C-2
Bana Josipa Jelaia I-2
Barakovieva E-3
Bareieva F-2/G-2
Barieva H-2
Bartola Kaia C-3
Begovieva C-3
Benkovaka E-2
Bernarda Vukasa E-2
Bihaka D-2, J-1
Bijankinijeva D-3, K-3
Bilanova H-2
Bilice I G-1
Bilice II G-1
Biogradska G-3
Biokovska D-2, K-1
Biserova C-2/D-2, I-1
Bjelovarska E-2
Blatine E-3
Blaa Trogiranina B-3
Bleiburkih rtava D-2
Boktuljin put E-1/E-2/F-1/F-2
Bolska D-2, K-1
Borieva C-3, H-2
Bosanska I-2
Botievo etalite C-3
Boe Periia E-3
Braka F-3
BrakaUvala Zenta E-3
Brajevia prilaz H-3
Branimirova obala C-3, H-3
Bregovita D-3
Bribirska D-2, J-1
Brune Buia E-2
Bubalova K-3
Bukoveva D-3
Bulieva J-2
Buvnina I-2
Catanijin put C-3
Cesta mira F-2
Cosmijeva I-2
Cvjetna E-3
iovska B-3
ulia dvori D-2/D-3, J-2

iril-Metodova D-2, I-2
Dinarska E-2
Dinka imunovia F-3
Dioklecijanova J-2
Dobri I-2
Dobrilina E-3/F-3
Domaldova I-2
Dominisova J-2
Domovinskog rata E-2/F-2, J-1
Doverska F-3/G-3
Drage Ivanievia E-2
Dragovode G-2
Draanac C-3, H-3
Drnika E-1/F-1
Drvenika B-3
Drieva D-2
DrievaK-1/K-2
Dubrovaka D-2/E-2
Dumania K-3
Duplania dvori K-2/K-3
Duvanjska D-3
Fra Bonina C-2
Fra Grge Martia E-2
Fra Luje Maruna K-2
Franje Rakog D-2, K-1

Gajeva C-2, H-1
Getaldieva F-2
Glagoljaka D-3, K-2
Gorika D-2, J-1/K-1
Gorski put F-1/F-2/G-1
Gospinica E-3
Grada Antofagaste C-2
Gradianskih Hrvata F-1
Grge Novaka E-2
Gundulieva D-2
Harambaieva C-2, H-1
Hektorovieva E-3
Hercegovaka E-1
Hrvatske mornarice C-2/D-2
Hrvatskih iseljenika D-2
Hrvojeva D-3, J-2/J-3
Hvarska D-3
Hvarska K-3
I. G. Kovaia D-3
Iliev prolaz I-2
Iloka E-2
Imotska F-1
Ispod Sv. Lovre G-3
Istarska D-2, J-1/J-2/K-1
Summer 2009
59
60
stREEt REGistER
Ivana Pl. Zajca E-3/F-3
Ivana Raosa F-1
Jadranska D-3
Jakova Gotovca F-2
Janjevska F-2/G-2
Jerina H-2
Jerolima Kavanjina I-1
Jesenika K-3
Jobova C-2
Kaieva D-2
Kaieva I-1
Kamenita C-2
Kamenita H-1/H-2
Kapieva E-3
Karamanova C-2
Karlovaka E-2
Katelanova E-3
Katelanska C-2
Kataliniev prilaz D-3
Kijevska F-2
Klaieva poljana I-2
Klarina D-3
Klarina K-3
Klika D-2
Klika J-1
Kneza Lj. Posavskog D-2
Kneza Mislava D-3
Kneza Mislava K-2
Kneza Vieslava D-2/D-3
Kneza Vieslava K-2
Kninska D-2
Kninska I-2
Kocunarski prilaz E-2/F-2
Kolombatievo etalite B-2/C-2/C-3
Komulovia put D-1/D-2/E-1/E-2
Kopilica E-1
Kotorska G-3
Kozjaka C-2, H-1/H-2
Kragieva H-1
Kraj Zlatnih Vrata J-2
Kralja Stjepana Drislava G-2/G-3
Kralja Tomislava D-2, I-2/J-2
Kralja Zvonimira D-3/E-3, J-3
Kranjevieva E-3
Krbavska F-2
Kreimirova J-2
Krianieva E-2
Kriine F-3
Krleina E-2
Kroz smrdeac F-3
Krste Odaka E-3
Krstulovia dvori J-1/J-2
Kruevia gumno J-1
Kukoeva K-3
Kukuljevieva E-2
Kumiieva E-1
Kupreka F-1
Kuzmanieva K-3
Kuzmia F-1, K-3
Kvaternikova D-2
Laginjina E-2
Lazarica E-3
Lika F-1
Livanjska D-2, J-1
Lovaki put G-2
Lovretska D-2
Lovrieve skale E-3
Luica C-2
Luieva D-2, F-3
Ljubuka F-1
Makarska G-3
Mandalinski put C-2
Manerova
Manuka poljana J-1

Marangunievo etalite A-3
Marasovia C-3, H-3
Marjanski put B-3
Marjanski tunel C-3
Marmontova D-2, I-2/J-1
Marulieva J-2
Matice Hrvatske E-2/E-3/F-2
Matije Gupca D-3
Matije Ivania E-2
Matoeva C-2, H-1
Matoia D-2, I-2
Mauranievo etalite D-2
Mediteranski put C-1
Mejai I G-2
Mejai II G-2
Mihanovieva B-3/C-3
Mile Gojsalia D-3
Milieva C-2/C-3, H-2
Miina F-2
Mitnika E-3
Molikih Hrvata F-3
Moseka E-2/F-2
Mosorska D-3, K-3
Mostarska F-1
Mostine G-1
Mrelina I-2
Na Kriice E-3
Na To J-3
Narodni trg D-3, I-2
Nazorova C-2/C-3, H-1
Nelipeva D-3, I-2
Nepotova D-3
Neslanovac F-1
Nigerova I-2
Ninska F-2
Nodilova D-2, I-2/J-2
Njegoeva C-3
Obala Hrvatskoga narodnoga
preporoda D-3, I-2/I-3
Obala Kneza Domagoja D-3, J-3
Obala Lazareta I-3/J-3
Obrov D-3, I-2
Odeska G-3
Omika D-3, K-3
Osjeka E-2/E-3
Ostravska G-2
Ozaljska F-2/G-2
Palmina C-3, H-2/H-3
Palmotieva D-3/E-3
Papalieva J-2
Papandopulova F-3
Pavla R. Vitezovia F-2
Pazinska F-2
Penia H-2
Peria C-3
Periieva C-3, H-2
Perivoj Ane Roje F-2
Pervanova K-3
Petra Kruia I-2
Petrieva K-2/K-3
Petrinjska E-2
Petrova D-3, J-3/K-3
Pistura I-2
Planieva C-2
Plinarska C-2, H-1
Plitvika E-1
Pod Kosom C-3
Podgorska C-2, H-1
Podrum J-2/J-3
Pojianska D-3, K-3
Poljika cesta E-3/F-3
Poljudsko etalite C-1
stREEt REGistER
Popovieva I-2
Porinova D-2, I-1
Poeka E-2
Pujanke F-2
Puntarska C-2
Pupaieva E-3
Put Brda F-1
Put Brodarice D-2
Put Dragovoda G-2
Put Duja E-1
Put Firula E-3
Put Glaviina D-2
Put iza nove bolnice E-3
Put Meja C-3
Put Mostina G-1
Put Pazdigrada G-3
Put Plokita D-2
Put Ravnih Njiva F-1
Put Sjeverne Luke F-1
Put Skalica C-2/D-2
Put Smokvice F-1
Put Supavla D-1
Put Sv. Lovre G-2/G-3
Put Trstenika F-3
Put njana F-3/G-3
R. Bokovia E-3/F-3
R. Katalinia Jeretova F-2
Radmilovia C-2, H-1
Radnika E-2
Radovanova D-3, J-3
Radunica D-3, J-2
Ramska E-1
Reia C-3, H-2
Reljkovieva D-2, K-2
Rendieva C-2
Rijeka J-1
Rodrigina I-2/J-2
Rokova D-3, J-2/K-2
Rooseweltova E-3
Sarajevska F-1
Savska D-2/E-2
Senjska C-3, H-2
Severova D-3, J-3
Sinovia H-2
Sinjska D-2, J-1
Sirievia H-2/H-3
Skradinska G-3
Slavieva C-2, J-1
Slavonska E-2
Smiljanieva D-2, K-2
Solinska F-1/G-1
Solurat C-3, H-3
Spinieva E-3
Spinutska C-2
Sredmanuka J-2
Stagnja H-2
Starevieva D-2
Stari Pazar D-3, J-3
Stepineva E-2
Stinice E-1
Stoci G-1
Stonska G-3
Studinova F-2
Suidar E-2
Sukoianska D-2
Supilova B-3
Sustipanski put C-3
Sutroiin put C-1/D-1
Sv. Nikole Tavelia F-2
Svaieva D-2, I-1
Svetog Kria C-2/C-3/D-2/D-3, H-2
Svilajska E-2
. Bavice D-3
egvieva J-3/K-3
enoina C-3, H-2
etalite BeneGunjaina B-2
etalite Ivana Metrovia A-3
etalite Marina Tartaglie A-2/B2/C-2
ibenska E-2
igorieva E-2/E-3
krape E-3
oltanska F-3
opova G-2
perun C-3, H-2
ubieva I-2
Table D-2
Teslina C-2
Teaki put G-2
Tijardovieva F-2
Tolstojeva D-2/D-3, J-2/K-1
Tomia Stine H-2
Tonieva D-2/D-3, I-2
Trg Brae Radi I-2
Trg Gaje Bulata I-1
Trg Republike C-3/D-3, I-2
Triljska F-1
Trogirska D-2/D-3, I-2
Trondheimska F-2/F-3
Trpimirova D-3, J-3
Trstenik F-3
Transka D-2
Trumbieva obala C-3, H-3
Trumbuac J-3/K-3
Ulica Slobode D-2
Uskoka E-3
Uvala Baluni C-3
V. Krstulovia E-3
V. Lisinskog C-2/C-3
Valpovaka E-2
Varadinska E-2
Velebitska D-2/E-2
Vesanovia K-3
Vetranieva C-3
Vidilica D-3
Vijugasta H-1
Viktora Vide G-2
Vinka Draganje E-2
Vinkovaka E-2
Vinodolska F-2
Viskotina K-3
Visoka F-2
Vika D-3
Vjekoslava Paraa E-2
Vladimira Gortana H-2
Vranieva E-2
Vranjiki put E-1/F-1
Vrgoraka G-2
Vrh Kmana E-2
Vrh Luac D-3, K-3
Vrh Visoke F-2
Vrlika F-1
Vrzov Dolac D-3, K-2/K-3
Vukasovieva D-2, J-2
Vukovarska D-2/E-2, K-1
Washingtonova D-2, K-1
Zadarska G-1, I-2
Zagorski put F-1/F-2/G-21
Zagrebaka D-2, J-2/J-3
Zbora narodne garde G-1/G-2
Zlodrina poljana D-3, J-3
Zoranieva D-2, I-1
Zrinsko-Frankopanska C-2
Zupina F-2
Zvizdina J-3
movnika D-3/E-3
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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Cafes, bars and other hot spots

Full of festivals, fiestas and

The central hub of Dalmatia

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Interesting and boring stuff included

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Home sweet home

A delirious and delicious collision of cultures

Where to watch the world go by

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I just call to say I luuuurve you...

Dont go anywhere without them

Going down to La-La Land

...and the little country that could

Take a little piece of my heart

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Split In Your Pocket

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New Years Day

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Complete listings at: www.inyourpocket.com

cultuRE & EVEnts

cultuRE & EVEnts

April 04 September 31 Klape at Peristil

May 5 August 9 Marc Chagall: dreams of love, poetry

June 21 Tribute to Dino Dvornik Kontra regula

June 10 - 30 A festival of street entertainers

The Dalmatian Klapa

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July 7 Arctic Monkeys

Fun for the whole family: www.inyourpocket.com

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August 20 - September 01 International Gathering of

October-December Splitgraphics IV- Splits Graphic

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August 09 The 294th Sinj Alka

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Chewbacca loves Split

Olives have played a small but integral part in world history,

either by hand or maybe beast of burden. The olives would

Cream of the crop

01 00, info@hotel-atrium.hr, www.hotel-atrium.hr. Youre

A Credit cards accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

Art D-2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. 30 23 02, fax 30 23 00,

40 64 01, sales@hotelpark-split.hr, www.hotelpark-split.

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Silver Gate D-3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. 32 28 57/ 098 46 38

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