G-D Diagram

JONSWAP Spectrum : fp = 0.148 Hm0–0.6 u0.2

The relation of external (linear) gravity waves

Deep water waves Theoretical values Shallow water waves

Phase speed √𝑔ℎ = 𝐶

𝑔𝐿 𝑔𝑇 𝑔𝐿 2𝜋ℎ
Ｃ √ = = 1.56𝑇(𝑚⁄𝑠) √ 𝑡𝑎𝑛ℎ ( )
2𝜋 2𝜋 2𝜋 𝐿

Wave length 𝑔𝑇 2 𝑔𝑇 2 2𝜋ℎ 𝑇√𝑔ℎ

= 1.56𝑇 2 (𝑚) tanh ( )
Ｌ 2𝜋 2𝜋 𝐿

Group velocity 1 4𝜋ℎ/𝐿 √𝑔ℎ

1 𝑔𝐿 𝐶 𝐶 {1 + }
Ｃg √ = 2 sinh(4𝜋ℎ/𝐿)
2 2𝜋 2

The range of wavelengths can also be given using the relation  = 1.56T2(m)