THE ARVIND MILL LIMITED

A PROJECT REPORT ON
REDUCTION OF FABRIC FAULTS
IN CASUAL SHIRTING DEPARTMENT

SUBMITTED BY- SUBMITTED TO –

RASHMI SUDHA MISHRA CASUAL SHIRTING DIVISION

Email- (rashmisudha001@gmail.com) Arvind Mill Limited, Santej,

Ph. no – +91 7504875506 Ahmedabad, Gujarat.

PRAGYAN PATTANAIK

Email- ( pragyanmama15@gmail.com)

Ph. No- +91 7978036830

JIJNASA BHOI

Email- ( jijnasabhoi@ gmail.com ) TRAINING DURATION-

Ph. No - +91 8249854446 22th May to 22th June, 2018

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
It has all been a great experience being at Arvind Limited. First of all we
would like to thank our institute “College Of Engineering & Technology”,
Bhubaneswar for providing us the opportunity of getting practical knowledge as
well and also thanks to Mr. Subhanish Malhotra [Chief Manager - HR (Life
Style Fabrics). Without his approval, our internship would have been
impossible.
We would also like to thank Mr. RAJESH GORADIA sir(SECTION HEAD-
WEAVING DIVISION) for his co-operation and time for us, who helped us to
continue with such a fine project.
We would also thank Mr. PARTHA PAL Sir & Mr .CHINTAN PATEL
Sir(PRODUCTION HEAD
CASUAL LOOM SHED 1 and 2,3 respectively).He was our guide and mentor,
who devoted his
valuable time to us. It was all because of him that we learnt and inquired more
and more about our project. Thanks to Krupa Ravel madam & Koushik Sir
who mentioned us in Casual loom shirting division for reduction in fabric faults.
The list is unending as the workers were very co-operative and it seems that
without their help we couldn‟t have managed to complete our project.
Thanking you all.
With regards
Rashmi Sudha Mishra
Pragyan Pattanaik
Jijnasa Bhoi

CONTENTS-:
ABOUT ARVIND MILL
INTRODUCTION
DIFF. TYPES OF FABRIC DEFECT
GREY INSPECTION GRADING
SYSTEEM
CAUSE OF DEFECTS & REMEDIES
CONCLUSION
HISTRY OF ARVIND LIMITED
In the year 1930, world suffered a traumatic depression. Companies
across the globe began closing down. In UK and in India the textile industry in
particular was in trouble. At about this time, Mahatma Gandhi championed the
“Swadeshi Movement” and at his call, people from all over India began
boycotting fine and superfine foreign fabrics, which had so far been imported
from England. In the midst of this depression one family saw opportunity. The
Lalbhais reasoned that the demand for fine and superfine fabrics still existed.
And any Indian company that met this demand would surely prosper. The three
brothers, Kasturbhai, Narottambhai and Chimanbhai decided to put up a mill to
produce this superfine fabric. Next they looked around for state-of-the-art
machinery that could produce such high quality fabric. Their search ended in
England. The best technology of that time was acquired at a most attractive
price. And a company called Arvind Mills was born.

Arvind Mills started with a share capital of Rs 2,525,000 ($55,000) in the year
1931. With the aim of manufacturing the high-end superfine fabrics Arvind
invested in very sophisticated technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552
doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of the few companies in those
days to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to
fullfledged facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing. The sales
in year 1934, three years after establishment were Rs 45.76 lakhs and profits
were Rs 2.82 lakhs. Steadily producing high quality fabrics, year after year,
Arvind took its place amongst the foremost textile units in the country
HISTORY AND OPERATIONS
1931 - Arvind Mills Ltd. is incorporated with share capital Rs.2525000
($55000) in Ahmedabad. Products manufactured are dhoties, sarees, mulls,
dorias, crepes, shirtings, coatings, printed lawns & voiles cambrics, twills
gaberdine etc.
1987 - The Company took up a modernisation programme to triple the
production of denim cloth and to produce double yarn fabrics for exports.
The new product groups identified were the indigo dyed blue denim, high
quality two-ply fabrics for exports, and special products such as buttasarees,
full voils and dhoties.
1991 - Arvind reached 100 million meters of denim per year, becoming the
fourth largest producer of denim in the world.
1992 - The Company increased the production of denim cloth by 23,000 tons
per day by modernizing the plant located at Khatraj of Ankur Textiles.
1993 - The Company proposed to expand the denim manufacturing capacity
by 85, 00, 00 meters per annum. The Company also proposed to set up a new
composite mill for producing annually 120 lakh meters of high quality
shirting fabrics to be marketed in the domestic as well as international
markets.
1994 - The Company's operations were divided into 3 units viz., Textile
Division, telecom division and garments division.
1995 - The performance of textile division was significantly affected due to
an unprecedented rise in cost of cotton.
1996 Garment division launched ready to stitch jeans pack under the brand
`Ruf&Tuf‟

1997 - The marketing and distribution network of `Newport` brand was

strengthened and the launched `Flying Machine' and 'Ruggers` brand
were strengthened.
The Company reported a fire in the goods go down& folding packing
department in Naroda Road unit of the company.
In 1997, Arvind set up a state-of-the-art shirting, gabardine and knits
facility, the largest of its kind in India, at Santej, Ahmedabad.
with Arvind‟s concern for environment a most modern affluent
facility with zero affluent discharge capability was also established
Arvind Mills sets up the anti-piracy cell for the first time in India to curb
large scale counterfeiting of their highly successful brands Ruf&Tuf and
Newport jeans.
Arvind Mills adopts the franchisee system for the manufacture and
distribution of Ruf and Tuf jeans.
ArvindFashions, doubles its capacity in the state-of-the-art
Manufacturing facility in Bangalore to produce Lee jeans.
1997 was also the year when Arvind mills started facing serious troubles
financially
1998 - Arvind Mills emerges as the world's third largest manufacturer of
denim. Arvind Mills goes live with SAP R/3 ERP package in April 1998
in their new manufacturing unit.

1999 - Arvind Mills sets a two-month deadline for hiving off its garments
division into a separate company and sale of its real estate in Delhi.
2000 - CRISIL downgrades the debenture issues of Arvind, indicating
that the instruments were in default.
2001 - Arvind Mills defaults on a $125 million floating rate note issue
and puts forward a debt restructuring proposal that could significantly
reduce its debt burden and sharply improve its financial health.
Arvind Mills posts a net loss of Rs 44.59 corer for the quarter ended
September 30, 2001.
2003 - For the fourth quarter, Arvind Mills witnesses 280% growth in the
net profit
Arvind Mills Ltd is assigned a `P1+` rating by CRISIL, which indicates a
very strong rating for their commercial paper.
2004 - Company turns itself around showing remarkable improvement in
financial performance.
2005 - For the fourth quarter in a row, Arvind Mills has managed to post
a profit growth in excess of 80 per cent.
Arvind Mills decides to buy entire stake in Arvind Brands from ICICI
Ventures. Arvind Mills does not distribute dividends to its shareholders
Consistently.

ARVIND LIMITED PROFILE

Venture into the world of RENOVISION Search any dictionary and you
won‟t find the word. We had to coin it. It means a new way of looking at issues
Of seeing more than the obvious. It is our corporate philosophy. The time -
1931, The event - the Swedish Movement . The result - non availability of fine
and superfine fabric in the Indian market.

At this juncture, The Arvind Mills was set up with the pioneering effort of
the Lalbhai brothers. With the best of technology and business acumen Arvind
Mills became a true Indian multinational having chosen to invest strategically,
where demand was high and quality required was superlative.
Arvind Mills the flagship company of Rs. 20 billion ($ 498 million) Lalbhai
Group. Arvind Mills has set the pace for changing global customer demands for
textiles and has focused its attention on selected core products. Such a focus
has enabled the company to play a dominant role in the global textile arena.

With its presence across the textile value chain, the company endeavors
to be a one-stop shop for leading garment brands. Fore vision and Technology
has brought Arvind to be one of the top three producers of Denim in the
world, and on its way becoming the Global Textile Conglomerate. Arvind is
already making its presence felt in Shirting’s, Knits and Khakhis fabrics apart
from being all set to create ripples in the ready to wear Garments world over.

GROUP OVERVIEWS
The Lalbhai group, founded by the 3 Lalbhai brothers - Kasturbhai,
Narottambhai and Chimanbhai - in 1908, has grown to become one of India's
most diversified business houses, with a significant presence in the textiles,
ready-to-wear, chemicals and telecom industries in India.
Each company in the group, in its own way, pursues a single mission - to be the
benchmark in its' industry. To achieve this, it has been tied-up with a variety of
companies . all world leaders in their respective fields.
ARVIND FABRICS-:
ARVIND BRANDS-:
Arvind has single handily developed a multi-billion denim market in India. The
brands fostered by Arvind include,
Lee & Arrow for the super-premium segment,
Flying Machine & Excalibur for the premium segment,
Newport for the economy and Innovative ‘Ruf&Tuf’for the mass market.
The company had recently made a foray into children segment by introducing
Lee Youth, Ruggers Kids & Newport Kids. Similarly in tie-up with Cluett
Peabody.
10
BUSINESSES
Fabric
Denim
Shirting
Khakis
Knitwear
Voiles
Garment Exports
Shirts
Jeans
Arvind Brands (owned)
Flying Machine
Newport
Ruf&Tuf
Excalibur
Arvind Brands (licensed)
Arrow
Lee
Wrangler
Gant U.S.A.
Sansabelt
Izod
Cherokee
Technical Textile
Filtration Fabric
Belting Fabric
Canvas Fabric
Coating Substrate
Protective Clothing
Automotive Textile

ARVIND MILL TODAY

A ONE STOP SHOP FOR ALL COTTON FABRIC REQUIREMENTS
Arvind‟s product ranges spans the entire gamut of cotton fabrics Arvind
limited manufacture world class denim, high value shirting‟s, Bottom
weights (gabardines/chinos) and Knit fabrics.
Arvind limited existing relationship with global brands such as Marks &
Spencer, V.F Corporation, Calvin Klein, GAP, Benetton, Polo, Esprit,
Tommy Hilfiger, Hugo Boss & Liz Claiborne.
Arvind Limited present in 70 countries across the world.

As considered India‟s biggest textile house that has products tailored to fit
virtually every segment of the consumer market. The brands fostered by
Arvind include Lee & Arrow for the super-premium segment, Flying
Machine & Excalibur for the premium segment, Newport for the economy
and innovative „Ruff & Tuff‟ for the mass market. This is not all. Arvind
recently made a foray into children segment by introducing Lee Youth,
Ruggers Kids & Newport Kids.
Arvind well known for its global dominance, with an annual turnover of
$ 251 million FY 98 accounts for more than 75% of the total denim
manufactured in India. Arvind limited is the world‟s 3rd largest
manufacturer of denim and largest denim exporter and roll out 120 million
meter every year.
Arvind invests more than $130 million in technological innovation over last
five year alone, Arvind has taken a quantum lead over its rivals.

INTRODUCTION-:
Most defects in cloth occur while it is woven on loom. Some
of the fabric defects are visible while others are not. Again
some fabric defects may be rectified during weaving and after
weaving while others are not. The faults which can be
rectified are going for mending section. An imperfection that
spoils the materials. A fabric defect is any abnormality in the
fabric that hinders its accessibility by the consumer.

The fabrics which can‟t be rectified they are checked and

graded according to American 4 point Grey Inspection
grading system. When fabric having low grade have less value
and not accepted by the customer. These have to sell with low
costs that will loss the company profit. Fabric defect is a
serious problem in weaving department which reduces the
quality of fabric and overall production.
So to avoid such type of faults in fabric we have to remove
the faults as much as possible to get ideal fabric or A grade
fabric in grey inspection system. Here some remedies are
given for common faults occur in most of the fabric.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF FABRIC FAULT

There are some faults created in the loom, so that different types of defects
occur in the fabrics. Some of the defects are minor which are avoidable but
some of the major common faults occurs in most of the fabrics are given below.
Loom Stop Mark
More pick
Less pick
Double pick
Tight pick
Package change
Slough off
Broken pick
Temple crack
Multi break
Oil Stain
Wrong Drawn
Wrong Denting
Wrong Pattern
Double End
Missing End
GREY INSPECTION GRADING SYSTEM-:

AMERICAN 4 POINT GREY INSPECTION SYSTEM
Any defect in length/width wise
Size Point 
0-3″ 1pt
3″-6″ 2pt
6″-9″ 3pt
Above 9″ 4pt

Length of defect Penalty points alloted

Upto 3 inches 1 point
3 – 6 inches 2 point
6 – 9 inches 3 point
Holes and Openings (1 inch or 2 points
less)
Over 9 inches 4 point
Holes and openings (over 1 inch) 4 points

Any two or more cuttable defect i.e. Hole, Torn, Float, Tight Warp,
Multiple breaks stain etc. given Maximum 4 pt. within one meter.
Grade No. of 4 points/100 mtr
A6
C/D Above 6
In white we are given D grade instead of „C‟ in yarn dyed fabric.
„D‟ grade fabric is not issued in PC dyed variety.
In grey % (white) less than 100 mtr consider „D‟ grade due to short
Length.
Majority single points are to be mended at grey stage. So we are not
Considered it at grey stage.
In Arvind casual loom shirting dept. only 4 pt. are given in grey
inspection and some time 1pt. are given for stain marks.
Here 5number of 4 points are accepted rather than 6 because there in
finish may shrinkage cause more than 6number of 4 points.

A Grey Inspection report taken from casual loom

Shirting department.

CAUSE OF DEFECTS AND REMEDIES

1. LOOM STOP MARK

A thick or thin place is produced in the fabric due to variation in pick
density while starting the loom.
CAUSE-:
1. Weaver letting back the fell of the fabric too close to the reed by
faulty adjustment of take-up motion.
2. Faulty functioning of anti crank shaft motion.
REMEDIES-:
1. Instruct the weavers about the correct procedure.
2. Ensure the correct functioning of the motion.

2. MISSING ENDS/BROKEN
END

Void caused by a missing warp thread in the fabric. The fabric is characterized
by a gap, parallel to the warp. The number of ends may be missing one or more.
CAUSE-:
1. Failure of weaver in attending to warp breaks immediately.
2. Warp stop motion not acting properly.
3. In electric warp stop motion, the electric bars are dirty or corroded.
REMEDIES-:
0.When there are only two adjacent ends missing, the fault can
be rectified by combing in both directions using a metallic comb.
1. This may fill the bare patch formed due to missing ends.
3. Use of spare ends on loom as a substitute for the missing ends.
4. The weaver should attend to warp breaks immediately.
5. Check the warp stop motion assembly.
6. Inspect the drop pins while putting on a new beam and weed
out the defective ones.

3. BROKEN PICK

Weft is inserted only for a portion of a pick or no pick insertion.

CAUSES -:
1. Weft break or weft exhaustion on ordinary looms.
2. Improper functioning of weft stop motion.
3. Weft change effected through weft fork mechanism on
automatic looms.

REMEDIES-:
1. Minimize the weft break percentage.
2. In case of shuttle looms check the shuttle for loose fitting of pirn
or roughness of surfaces as these cause more weft breaks.
3. Check also the shuttle boxes for settings and surface condition
to prevent cutting of weft.
4. Maintain the weft stop motions in good working condition.

4. LESS PICK
A narrow streak running parallel with weft threads caused due to
absence of weft.
CAUSES-:
1. Faulty let-off and take-up motion.
2. Faulty weft-stop motion.
3. Fell of the cloth not adjusted after loom stoppage for mending.
REMEDIES-:
1. When there are only two adjacent picks missing, the fault can be
rectified by combing in both directions using a metallic comb.
This may fill the bare patch formed due to missing picks.
2. Making the weft-stop motion work properly.
3. Operator must be careful when starting the loom after a weft

5. SLUB
Slub is a bunch of yarn having less twist or no twist and has a wider
diameter compared to normal spun yarn.
CAUSES-:
1. Improper carding or combing.
2. Undrafted portion of yarn.
REMEDIES-:
1. The slub should be cut with the clipper from both the ends. The
bare patch can be corrected by combing with a metallic comb.
2. Minimize the incidence of slubs during spinning.
3. Clear the yarns effectively during winding.

6. BLACK STAIN

These are spot defects of oil, rust, grease or other stains found in the
fabric
CAUSES-:
1. Improper oiling/greasing of looms.
2. Oil stained Take up roller.
REMEDIES-:
1. Keep the stained portion of the fabric over an absorbent pad.
Apply the stain remover, wetting the stain and surrounding
portion thoroughly.
2. Rub gently to quicken the penetration of the stain remover.
3. Rubbing should be done towards the centre of stain to avoid
spreading.
4. Note: Delicate fabric needs reduced pressure, otherwise, hole
formation or displacement of the fabric will occur.
5. Oiling and greasing of looms should be done carefully.

7. DOUBLE PICK

Two or more picks inserted in the same shed where one pick is
required.
CAUSE-:
1. Failure of the weaver to find out the correct shed when restarting
an ordinary loom.
2. By mistake of weaver if weft is left in shed and loom started.
3. If late formation of shed occurs then double pick may occurs.
REMEDIES-:
1. Weaver has to check the shed when loom stops whether there is
any pick left inside.
2. If there is late formation of shed occurs then loom setting has to
change.
3. Proper weft accumulator setting needed as per the count of weft.

8. SLOUGH OFF
Thick bunches of yarn are woven into the fabric in the weft direction
due to slipping of coils of weft or number of broken picks inserted
with actual picks.
CAUSE-:
1. Improper weft insertion along with cut pieces of weft yarns.
2. long length of weft insertion which folds and inserted with the
fillings.
REMEDIES-:
1. Adjustment of the accumulator which will release required length
of weft yarn.
2. Air pressure should be maintain appropriately so that extra length
will not come.

9. LOOSE WARP

The warp ends some times become loose so that there is fault occurs
in the fabric called loose warp.
CAUSE-:
1. At the time of warping there is the cause of loose warp due to less
tension in the warping section.
2. When weavers are knotting the broken end due to faulty knotting
slippage occurs and became loose but that looseness will not drop
droppin.
3. Improper tension in the weavers beam.
4. Oscillating bar if not adjusted appropriately.
REMEDIES-:
1. Weavers beam having equal tension in all the thread should be
maintain.
2. Knotting of the weaver should be right.
3. Oscillating bar should be adjusted according to the shed formation/
shed type.
4. In mending process it can be removed by pulling the end.

10. TIGHT WARP

Due to tension in the warp thread, fault occurs in the fabric in the
warp direction which makes a line mark.
CAUSES-:
1. Due to improper tension in the weavers beam at time of warping.
2. Knotting of warp thread tightly by the weavers.
3. Due to improper adjustment of oscillating bar.
REMEDIES-:
1. Weaver beam should be maintain with proper tension.
2. Knotting should not be tight.
3. Oscillating bar should be adjusted according to the
warp count and shed type.

11 . DOUBLE END
When in denting one warp end is needed but mistakenly two warp end
inserted in dent then a defect occurs in fabric called double end.
CAUSE-:
1. Wrong denting order by the dent worker.
2. Due to sticky warp denting.
3. Wrong drawing of ends in eye.
REMEDIES-:
1. Proper denting of end threads.
2. Avoid/eliminate sticky warp threads.
2. Proper drawing of the ends in eye.

12. WRONG PATTERN

When wrong denting and drawing occurs then wrong patterns arises.
When given order of fabric sample does not matches with weave
pattern called wrong pattern.
CAUSE-:
1. Wrong denting and drawing done by denting worker.
2. Wrong order of denting pattern given to denting worker.
3. Wrong shedding adjustment.
REMEDIES-:
1. Right shedding mechanism should be adjusted.
2. Proper pattern should be given to denting working.
3. Skilled denting worker needed who can understand the order.

13. TEMPLE CRACK

Due to wrong temple adjustment fabric got crack marks toward the
selvedge of the fabric that called temple crack.
CAUSE-:
1. Wrong adjustment of temple.
2. Defect of temple rings.
3. Temple length.
REMEDIES-:
1. Temple should be adjusted according to the fabric.
2. If ring defect occurs then change the rings.
3. Rings should be of equal type.
4. Angle of steel rings should be gradually decreased towards
selvedge.
5. Length should be 20cm of the temple so that can catch fabric well
and less pressure on it.

14. MULTI BREAK

When number of warp thread breaks and loom doesn‟t stops then
defect occurs called multi break.
CAUSE-:
1.Due to more tension on warp thread.
2. Improper weavers beam tension.
3. When warp breaks warp stop technique doesn‟t works.
REMEDIES-:
1. Proper tension should be maintain by the oscillating bar.
2. Warp stop technique should be functioning.
3. Warping should be with proper tension.

15. WRONG DENTING/DRAWING

Due to wrong insertion of warp ends in healed eye and reed dent, fault
occurs known as wrong draw/dent.
CAUSE-:
1. End insertion in wrong eye or reed.
2. Sticky end insertion as single end.
3. Unskilled worker in the work.
REMEDIES-:
1. Ends should be in the proper eye and proper reed.
2. Sticky end should be removed and single end should be dented.
3. Worker must know the denting and drawing method.

16. FLOATS: Defect in a woven fabric where warp and weft

threads do not interlace as desire.

CAUSES:
1) Broken end getting entangled with the adjacent warp
ends.
2) The breaks between reed and heald are more prone to
forms a floats.
3) Knot with long tail ends leading to entanglement of
ends.
4) Fluff or foreign matters trapped in the shed.

REMEDIES:
1) Attended to broken ends without delay on loom
equipped with warp stop motion.
2) Avoid long tail end in knot in weaving preparatory
process.
3) Ensure cleanliness in side loom
4) Use screen to avoid fluffs flying to adjacent looms.
 17. THICK END: A warp yarn having diameter larger than
normal.

CAUSES:
1) Excessive count
variation.
2) Accidental mixed up or counts in winding and
warping.

REMEDIES: 1) Avoid excessive count variations.

2) Conduct frequent checks to avoid mixed up

Of count.

18. REEDY FABRIC :

Fine crack appearing across the fabric between group of warp

ends, matching with the pattern of denting in reed.

CAUSES: 1) Excessive warp tension.

2) Late shed timing leading to lack of proper tension
at beat up.
 REMEDIES: 1) Adjust the warp tension.
2) Resort to early shed timing.

CONCLUSION-:
From these overall defects we observed that different types of faults are
occurring in the fabric. Common faults are arising such as loose warp,
slough off, snarl, fiber ball, beam goli which can be removed in the
mending section. Most of the major faults arising in the Arvind are broken pick,
loom starting mark, tight warp. Due to improper accumulator setting and filler
sensor broken picks occurs .These can be avoided by right adjustment of
accumulator and air pressure according to the weft count. Loom starting mark
also a major fault which occurs in most fabric. It arises due to wrong adjustment
of the loom and also for long time loom stoppage. To avoid this situation,
adjustment should be done considering the tension on the warp threads and
pattern of denting.

To avoid tight warp we have to emphasize on the tension on individual

thread at time of warping. Faults like short broken warp, double pick etc
can be avoided by the operator at time of weaving. So better skilled
operator can avoid most of the faults arises in the fabric.