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Quality Visual Inspection Process (VIP)

(PRINCIPAL TEXTILE MATERIAL)

TWN Lead Material Developer

Jenny Kuo
2019/10/31
 Agenda

✓Quality Visual Inspection Process (VIP) intro

✓Fabric inspection work flow/ VIP guideline sharing

✓Fabric texture (Pattern) define & Textile Language level set

✓Material defect issue define (+ Real defected case sharing)

✓VIP Program Resource

What is Quality Visual inspection Process (VIP)?
 Today vs. Future Today

Quality inspection Shipped (Physical

Tier 2 PO received ERP system raw material/ Product Planning Placed Product form Production
(Outgoing Quality test report attached)
griege/ stock qty checking arranged ERP system to internal factory
Upper Suppliers Checking)

Quality inspection Production Quality inspection Roll goods

Shipping
(Shoe Quality Checking) (Incoming Quality received Tier 1
Checking)
Shoe factories
Fabric inspection work flow
Your current Prod. Process
Purchasing &
Receiving Yarns
What’s New to You??
QC
Returning yarns Yarn check
NG Texture/Gauge
OK
QC
Knitting/Weaving
Lab-dip dyed, fabric Pattern (Texture) &
OK
Gauges checked
QC
Greige QC
Width, weight
Returning greige
NG Appearance
OK
QC Appearance & Color Shading Checked
Re-dyeing/ Dyeing/ Tentering
Remaking NG
OK

Final QC Aesthetic Defect

Appearance, width,
NG weight
OK
Warehouse Visual Inspection &
Physical properties Lab test
Packaging
NG NG
OK
(+ Visual inspection report
QC
Packaging +Continues Color Book )
NG Appearance, Full
inspection, Defect
 OQC Fabric Visual inspection work flow
1 Texture/Gauge
(Density/ Thickness) 2 Appearance
3 Fabric Color
shading Inspection 4 Dimension
Inspection 5 Fabric visual
defect Inspection

9 Provide Visual QC report/

Color Book 8 Shipping 7 Packaging 6 QC record
 Fabric Visual inspection work flow (Video)
1 2 3 4 5

Texture/ pattern confirmed during
griege good status (lab-dip dyed
process support before review
checking)
Package info checked during package Fabric width checked during
Texture/ pattern confirmed during Visual inspection checked & issue
process package process package process defined during package process

6 7 8 9 10
Nike Fabric Aesthetics Worksheet

Vendor Name: YUAN LING

Nike Vendor Code: 112.1
PCX Number# : 65617.112.1
Colourway: 10A
PO number #: 9A12107 Item Description: 35% Recycle polyester 150D+65% Polyester

Roll length Weight Width Thickness Surface Appearance: Texture Color consistancy (Color unevenness) Visual fabric defect
Evaluator (Yd) Std = __180____ Std = _____ Std = _____ Shading
Date Time Batch/Lot Number Roll beginning Dirty Crease marks/ Friction Mark/ Remark
(Operator) (Selvage to Lot to Lot Skewing/Bias Holes Snagging Streaks Missing Line Color unevenness Irregular stripes Other
to end (STAIN/DIRT) Wrinkles/ Fold marks Abrasion Mark
Tol. = __+/- 9___ Tol. = ____ Tol. = _____ <-- Hairy/Fuzzy Smooth / Clean --> selvage)
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 100 24kg 46 inch x * Mark X-as issue case
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 100 23.9kg 46 inch x If defect area is bigger than 1 STD mark (>3 cm) please
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 100 23.7kg 46 inch x note how many defect area
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 100 24.7kg 46 inch x
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 100 24.7kg 46 inch x * As marked area please replace qty as follow
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 100 24.6kg 46 inch x X1 - <X5 1/2 yardage
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 100 24.6kg 46 inch x - X5-X10 1 yardage
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 100 24.6kg 46 inch x - >X10 >1 yardage
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 100 24.1kg 46 inch x X1
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 100 24kg 46 inch x * if material issue is related on Color unevenness,
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 100 24.1kg 46 inch x X1 please call out issue level (S/M/High) and share with
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 100 24.2kg 46 inch x shoe factory for visibility & confirmed.
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 100 24.4kg 46 inch x
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 100 24.6kg 46 inch x
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 100 24.8kg 46 inch x 5 cm
1/24/2019 1pm M10801100044 10 3.6kg 46 inch x

* Mark X-as a issue case

Instructions: Visual fabric defect defined

1 This form can be used exactly as provided or modified by the Nike vendor as needed (e.g.: for local language) as long as the information captured remains the same. Skewing/Bias: Condition where fil ing yarns are not square with warp yarns on woven fabrics or where courses are not square with walse lines on knits
2 This form is intended to document the results of evaluating every lot of fabric produced for aesthetic properties using the Nike Fabric Aesthetics Test Methods. Dirty: Fabric got dirty spots (Oil spot, color, fiber, water spot…etc)
3 One form should be used for each item/colour. Holes: Missing yarn, leaving behind a space, caused by broken needle
4 Enter the general details at the top of the page (Vendor name, item number, etc.) Snagging : A break, tear or pull in the fabric, caused by a pulled thread in the fabric/ yarn pulled out from the fabric
5 For each production batch, record the details as outlined in the form (date, time, batch #, etc.) Streaks: Dark of light uneven lines, caused by faulty processing
For each production batch, evaluate the each fabric aesthetic property (texture, sheen, etc.) and using the red-yellow-green boxes, Crease marks/
6 Appears where creases are caused by fabric folds under pressure in the finishing process
indicate how the production sample compares to the approved standard. Wrinkles / Fold marks
Green = production sample matches the approved standard Missing Line Fil ing yarn broken when weaving/ the harness misdraw results in two ends weaving as one, caused by one end of yarn missing from feed and machine continue to run.
7 Yellow = production sample is slightly different than the approved standard but is stil acceptable; production may be adjusted to better match the standard. Color unevenness a change in shade from selvage to selvage, beginning to end, roll to roll or other not propriate process cause the color inconsistancy issue
Red = production sample is noticeably and significantly different than the approved standard and is not acceptable; production batch should be reworked or scrapped and process adjusted. Irregular stripes Improper of raw material cause the issue
8 Maintain a production continuity card (similar to colour continuity) so that a physical record of lot to lot consistency is available. Friction Mark/ Abrasion MarkImproper scratch during finishing or process
9 Use the data collected in this process to reduce lot to lot variation and maintain consistency to the Nike standard. Other Other issues

Visual inspection color consistency Visual inspection color consistency Continues card prepared (Color book) Continues card (Color book) ready Visual Inspection report ready
checked during package process checked during package process during package process
 Fabric Visual inspection work flow (Video)
1 Texture/ pattern confirmed during griege good 2 Package info checked during package process
status (lab-dip dyed process support before
review checking)
 Fabric Visual inspection work flow (Video)

3 Fabric width checked during package process 4 Texture/ pattern confirmed during package process
 Fabric Visual inspection work flow (Video)
5 Visual inspection checked & issue defined during 6 Visual inspection issue size defined during package
package process process
 Fabric Visual inspection work flow (Video)

Visual inspection color consistency checked Continues card prepared (Color book) during package
7 8 process
during package process
 Fabric Visual inspection work flow (Video)
1
9 Continues card (Color book) ready 0 Visual Inspection report ready
What’s next after material defect Issue defined?
Inspection defected goods replaced guideline
▪ Once fabric defect is found, Mark X-as issue case and If defect area is bigger than 1 STD
mark (>5 cm) please note how many defect area into issue tracking report.
▪ As marked area replaced qty as follow below Table
▪ If material issue is related on Color unevenness, please call out issue level (S/M/High)
and share with shoe factory for visibility & confirmed
▪ Input Accept, Reject or Standard Exception result into Fabric Aesthetics Production checklist

Defected QC tool
Fabric defect (Mark X qty) Replaced qty (yardage)
<X5 (25 cm) 0.5
X5-X10 (25-50 cm) 1
X10-X15 (50-75 cm) 1.5
X15-X20 (>-70 cm) 2
Inspection defected mark size
 Defect size

X1 X2
X1

Roll good direction

 What kind of VIP resource you will received in future ?
Gauge R&R tool, method & data analyzed aligned, technical language aligned

➢ QC Tools
o FAQ Help/contact window document guideline (technical tool)
o Open website or platform to share Material Inspection tool (such like FW Quality
control management guidance)
o Digitalize White Board quality inspection guideline – free Digital photos resource to
download

QC tool
Quality management Tool
 ➢ QC Tools
o FAQ Help/contact window document guideline (technical tool)
o Open website or platform to share Material Inspection tool (such like FW Quality control management guidance)
o Digitalize White Board quality inspection guideline – free Digital photos resource to download

Defect Fabric Board

(A4 size, X3 Zoom) Material Defect QC jig

QC Visual inspection
check list

Defect fabric overview Fabric microscope tool & PP RED/WHITE SEAL samples QC Visual inspection guideline
Quality Visual Inspection Guideline
Fabric Aesthetics Production checklist

PO information

Fabric color consistency Fabric visual defect

Fabric texture checking
Fabric texture (Pattern) define & Textile
knowledge & Language level set
Fabric is a flat textile surface produced by interloping or interlacing yarns
 What kind of PP lining materials we have? (Woven Interlacing vs. Knit Interlooping)
Woven: A fabric constricted by interlacing
2 yarns at right angles to each other.

Knit: A fabric constricted by interloping

one or more yarns.
 How to define fabric front vs back side?
Single Knit Fabric: Machine has One set of needles creating a distinct face & Back

Face Back

Course
Wale
▪ Has a technical face and technical back that is easily identified.
Also easy to see the courses and wales in the fabric.
Double Knit Fabric: Machine has Two set of needles. Either side of the fabric can
be used as the face.
Face Back

▪ Double knit fabrics can look the same on the face and the back but the stitches are most often different on the
face and back.
 How to define fabric front vs back side?
Warp Knit Fabric: Machine has multiple set of needles creating a distinct face & Back
Quick tips to define fabric direction
 How to check fabric Gauge (Density)?
▪ Gauge: Number of needles (Wales) in one inch.
Determines fabric fineness. The higher the gauge the
finer the fabric.
▪ Density: Number of yarn loops (Wales & Course)
in one inch. (WPI& CPI) Determines fabric
fineness. The higher the Density (WPI& CPI)
the finer the fabric.

Fine Gauge Coarse Gauge Face Back

Wale Per Inch (WPI)

Course
(WPI: 10 ) (WPI: 5 )

▪ Diameter of the circular knitting machine determines the Course Per Inch (CPI)
width of the fabric.
WHQ side how to define fabric Texture & Aesthetic
- Checking process
Basic Overview of Parts of a Fabric
• Selvage - Lengthwise edge of a fabric, usually ¼ to
½ inch of a gummed edge or denser weave
to ensure fabric edge will not tear when subject to
the stresses of finishing and dyeing.

• Grain or On Grain - parallel to selvage edge. Most

garments are sewn with the grain of the fabric
parallel to the length of the body.

• Cross grain - perpendicular to grain.

• Bias grain - 45 degree angle to grain.

• Fabric Face and Back - Every material has a

technical face and technical back based on how it is
made. In general, the technical face is used as the
outside the garment, the technical back is usually
toward the body but this is not a rule. Sometimes
we may choose to use the technical back side of a
fabric as the face for aesthetic reasons.
Material defect issue define/ Real case sharing

Nike VIP Program

Material defect issue define
Defect fabric define:
Defect fabric define:

Dyeing unevenness Dirty Color unevenness Snagging

Hole Dyestuff left over Right and left side Wrinkling Irregular stripes
pattern not straight issue
Fabric Defect Issues- Real case overview

Nike VIP Program

 Yarn issues &Pilling
Spots & Polluting
Thickness/ Fabric weight/ Hand feeling NG Streaks

Wrinkles Pattern NG
Color discrepancy
Yarn issue/ Missing yarn
Strip/ Machine Stop Mark
Missing yarn
Missing Line & Snagging & Friction Mark
Wrinkles
Color discrepancy

Blue tone

Red tone
Spots & Polluting
Spots & Polluting
Missing Line & Snagging & Friction Mark
Yarn issues &Pilling
Thickness/ Fabric weight/ Hand feeling NG
Pattern NG
Strip/ Machine Stop Mark

strip
Streaks
少一條OP紗
Missing yarn
少一條紗
OP紗跑到原紗位置 Yarn issue/ Missing yarn
斷針
 Key Take Away
Defected Goods Replaced Guideline What’s New to You??
Fabric defect (Mark X qty) Replaced qty (yardage)
<X5 (25 cm) 0.5 Texture/Gauge
X5-X10 (25-50 cm) 1
Lab-dip dyed, fabric Pattern (Texture) &
X10-X15 (50-75 cm) 1.5
Gauges checked
X15-X20 (>-70 cm) 2

Appearance
Appearance & Color Shading Checked

Continues card (Color book)
Aesthetic Defect
Warehouse Visual Inspection &
Visual Inspection report Packaging
(+ Visual inspection report
+Continues Color Book )
 ➢ KEY CONTACTS
IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS PLEASE USE THE NAMES BELOW TO HELP YOU FIND SOME ANSWERS

Stakeholder group Contact info Position

Jenny Kuo Jenny.Kuo@nike.com TWN PMO LEAD MATERIALS DEVELOPER

Asia PMOs Rainbow Qin Rainbow.Qin@nike.com GZ PMO LEAD MATERIALS DEVELOPER
EunJung Lee EunJung.Lee@nike.com Korea PMO LEAD MATERIALS DEVELOPER
Thi Tran Thi.Tran@nike.com VN PMO LEAD MATERIALS DEVELOPER
Retno Astari Retno.Astari@nike.com Indo PMO VENDOR MANAGER

WHQ Leslie Vanderleeuw Leslie.Vanderleeuw@nike.com Principal Textile Mtl. DIR

Jennifer Bologna Jennifer.Bologna@nike.com MATERIALS PALETTE DEVELOPER
Julie Huffman Julie.Huffman@nike.com DIR REGIONAL MATERIALS DEVELOPMENT
Thank you