Professional Documents
Culture Documents
1887 Correct Dress
1887 Correct Dress
Table of Contents.
SHIRTS.
Full Dress, Half Dress, Street Dress, 13. — Fancy Shirts, 14.
GLOVES.
Full Dress, 15. — Street, Driving, 16.
HATS.
With Dress Suits, Prince Albert, Cutaway, Sack, 16.
SHOES.
Full Dress, Half Dress, Street, Negligee, 16.
DIAGRAMS.
How to Tie a De Joinville or Windsor Scarf, 18, 19.— Hew to Tie a Foui-in-Hand, 20
Index.
Calls, Evening Dress for Formal, - Full Dress Suit, Shirt Studs, -
Calls, Evening Dress for Social. - 6, Full Dress Suit, Shirt, The
Collars, for Full Dress, - Full Dress Suit, Shoes, The
Collars, for Half Dress, Full Dress Suit, Tie, The -
Collars, for Prince Albert Suit, Full Dress Suit, Trousers, The
Collars, Illustrations, - - - Full Dress Suit, Undervests,
Collars, Types of Full Dress Suit, Vest, The
Concerts, Dress for - 6, Full Dress Suit, When to Wear It,
-
to Tie, 15, Jewelry, Bosom Pins,
Jewelry, Cuff Buttons,
Jewelry, Diamonds, -
- - -
4
Dinners, Dress for Informal - 6, Jewelry, Scarf Pins, - - -
7, 15
Evening Dress, -~
Full Dress Suit, ... -
Jewelry, Shirt Studs,
Jewelry,
-----
Watch Chains. -
4
4
Full Dress Suit, Accessories, The '
:
Mufflers, 6
Full Dress Suit, Coat, The - Negligee Dress, - - - - 10, 17
Full Dress Suit. Collar, The - Occasions, Dress for Various 17
Opera, Dress for - - -1,6.13,17 Scarfs and Ties, Prince Albert Suit, - 7
Opera Parties, Dress for - - 1, 17 Scarfs and Ties, Tecks, 7, 12, 14
-6,17
6, 17
Shoes, for Street, ... -
- -
9
16
Receptions, Dress for Evening - 1, 17 Teas, Afternoon, Dress for 6,17
Sack Suit, Accessories, The 10 Theatre, Dress for 6, 10, 17
Sack
Sack
Suit, Hat,
Suit, Illustration,
- -
-
-
-
-
-
- 12
8 Undervests, ....
Theatre Parties, Dress f< r
-
ii 17
6
Sack Suit, Occasionsfor - - - 10 Vests, for Cutaway Suit, 12
7, 12,
7, 15
14 Windsor Ties, ------ *i 17
*5
Scarfs and Ties. Full Dress, - 4, 14 Yachting Dress, - - 17
#jv*
The Full Dress Suit.
The Coat. Coats may have collars cut either with or without lapels.
The roll in either case is light and long, extending to
within five inches of the waist. Both styles are faced wich
satin — the lapels for about half their width, the "shawl " collar (that with-
out lapels) to the outer edge. The skirts taper from the hips to a narrow
bottom. Sleeves are moderately close, finished with real or imitation cuffs.
The edges are bound with very narrow binding.
The Vest. Handsome embroidery upon the vest is very desirable, but
not absolutely essential. If the material is the same
as the suit, it may be either plain or embroidered with
any degree of elegance for which the wearer is willing to pay. The em-
The Full Dress Suit.
broidery is applied about an inch from the edge, along the collar, down the
frontand across the bottom and pockets. If of white silk or satin, it may be
embroidered in the same manner, or may have an all-over embossed or em-
broidered pattern. The silk or satin vests are favored by elegant dressers.
The vest may have either three buttons, spaced about 1% inches apart, or
four buttons, spaced about 2 inches apart. The opening is moderately
curved, or shield-shape, and the collar narrow.
TheTrousers. About 17^ inches at the knee and 17 inches at the bottom
is the proper size, making the trousers neither tight nor
baggy, but trim and shapely. They are finished plain with
no braid down the side seams.
The Collar. The collar should be moderately high, and may be either
straight or with turn-over points. The height should be I %
and 1 }( or 1^ inches behind If straight,
or 2 inches in front
the corners should be sharp, and the opening should be from to inches. % %
Collars that lap are no longer fashionable. The collars Nos. I, 2, 3,
illustrated on page 11, are typical shapes suitable for full dress.
The Shirt. The Full Dress Shirt may have either a linen or pique bosom,
opening in front. If of linen it may be either plain,
pleated or embroidered. The embroidered front is
most desirable, the pleated front the least so, and the latter is not greatly in
vogue. The plain front may have either a corded or hemstitched edge, the
latter being very genteel. The embroidered front may have a very
delicate line of embroidery running down the center upon the line of the
eyelets : or it may have a similar double line, one on each flap with about
two inches plain space between, in which are the eyelets. Large florid pat-
terns of embroidery running over the whole front should be avoided. Neat
all-over patterns of small dots, sprigs or other minute patterns, are in high
favor and excellent taste. Pique woven pattern are
shirts of plain ribbed or
still worn but are not so popular as formerly. Embroidered piques on a fine
ribbed ground, similar to those of embroidered linen, are in high favor.
Some shirts are embroidered in colors more or less delicate. They are not
suitable for full dress. One, two, or three studs may be used, according to
the individual fancy, but two studs are considered the best form.
The Tie. There is but one kind of tie permissible for full dress, —
plain lawn tie % to y% inches wide, tied by the wearer.
Made-up ties should be avoided. Satin or silk ties are not
used at present.
The Cuffs. These may either lap for buttons, or barely meet, for links.
The preference is for the latter, the latest shapes having a
slight opening along their entire length. They may have
either round or square corners, like the cuffs on page II.
favor of the watch chain. The studs and links may be either of white enamel
with a gold back, or of plain gold, preferably of Roman finish, to avoid unde-
sirable luster. two or three studs are worn, they should be of modest
If
size ; may be of more generous proportions. Diamonds are no
a single stud
longer worn by gentlemen. A pin of any kind in the shirt front is the
height of vulgarity. A gold watch chain should never be worn with a dress
suit. Many gentlemen do not wear any chains. A plain black silk guard
chain, or the same mounted with gold, is in good taste.
The Gloves. Pearl kids, with stitching of the same color, are the only
proper gloves for full dress. They should be worn on all
occasions of ceremony.
The Shoes. Congress gaiters, with patent leather uppers and imitation
silk stocking tops.
The Prince Albert Suit.
The Hat. The crush hat is no longer in use. A light-weight silk
hat is the only wear, with full dress.
the evening. Well along in the afternoon a man may put on his Prince
Albert Suit, and wear it on the street, at informal dinners, at the theatre or
opera, for social calls, and, in fact, anywhere during the evening except at
formal entertainments, where only full dress is suitable. As a rule, men of
moderate tastes will wear the Prince Albert Suit in preference to the Full
Dress or Cutaway, whenever the occasion permits of a choice.
The Mate- For strict dress narrow wale worsteds, black or dark, of
rials. very fine quality, should be used for the coat and the ;
The Cut. The coat is cut to close moderately high or to roll free, is
The Shirt. A plain white shirt with linen bosom ismost suitable, al-
though pique may be worn if desired, and there is no ob-
jection to embroidery, except that it is almost entirely cov-
ered. Shirts with color in them, such as cheviots, Madras, and fancy
pique, should not be worn with a Prince Albert Suit, except, perhaps, with a
light colored suit, on the street, at the race-track, or on similar occasions.
The Gloves. For all formal occasions, pearl kids with stitching of me-
dium size of the same color. For informal occasions, the
street, etc., tan color, dressed or undressed kids, with
medium stitching, either the same color or black.
Shoes. For strict dress, patent leather, kid tops, with buttons.
For the street, laced gaiters of leather, with kid top, toe-
cap and round toe.
Hats. Only a tall hat should be worn with a Prince Albert Suit.
A silk hat is proper for formal dress, and a white, pearl or
fawn for street wear.
social sense, meaning the time before the formal dinner, say 6 p.m. but ;
this view is entirely too stringent, for good usage approves the Cutaway of
10
dark, fine material for all occasions except the most formal — such as wed-
dings, parties, dinners, etc., whose character is indicated by written invita-
tions.
For dinners en famille or by verbal invitation, for the theatre or the
opera — except with, parties— for ordinary social calls, for church, for the
street — for these occasions the Cutaway Suit
all is entirely proper ; although
it does not by any means exclude the more formal Prince Albert or Dress
Suit. It must always be borne in mind, however, that with this suit mate-
rial is of much importance ; that coarse materials and bone buttons are
never in place in the evening ; and that the Cutaway when worn socially, so
to speak,must be dark and fine as to coat, while the trousers may be either
dark, which is always good form, or lightish.
It may be said for the Cutaway that it is the suit of good sense ; for it is
alike adapted to the man who is fastidious in dress and him who only desires
to avoid social gaucherie.
The Sack and The proper purpose of the Sack Suit is business, or outdoor
Its Occasions. pursuits or amusements. It is neglige, informal and com-
fortable ; but its social status is that of the shirt sleeves
it has no place in the house. It is permissible anywhere in the morning ;
range that it need not be touched on, further than to say that it is entirely
subject to individual preference.
No. i.
No. 3.
s -
12
The Shape. Both Cutaway and Sack are now made with a longer roll
the Four-in-Hand and Teck being'the favorites. This wider opening of the
vests is also favorable to the wearing of fancy shirts of colored pique, pat-
tern percales, cheviots, etc., which are only proper with a Cutaway or Sack
Suit.
Hats. Any hat may be worn with a Cutaway Suit, and any hat
but a silk hat may be worn with a Sack Suit.
For half dress and neglige the range for selection is considerably wider,
the only actual requirement being the avoidance of extreme heights, such as
the 2Y2, inch patterns and the very long and large points.
example. Link cuffs are by far the most fashionable, but button cuffs, of
course, always retain a degree of popularity. The link cuff may also be
rounded slightly at the corners as shown in No. 5.
Shirts
Pleated bosoms are somewhat used but are not greatly in favor. The em-
broidery should be in a single narrow delicate line down the front, or in two
lines, one on each flap, and about two inches apart. Large florid embroi-
dery is in bad taste. No color is admissible. An all-over embroidered pat-
tern of small spots, delicate sprigs or similar design, is also in excellent taste.
One, two, or three studs may be used, but two studs are the best form.
Half Dress, with the Prince Albert or Cutaway Suits, requires a plain
white shirt.
With street dress, morning dress, business dress, or neglige, either white
or fancy shirts may be worn, as desired. Fancy pique's with colored patterns
or embroidery, percales, cheviots, etc., are proper only for business or rec-
reation, and should never be worn in the evening nor for afternoon calling, nor
14
For business, for the street and for morning wear, fancy percale, pique or
cheviot shirts, are most suitable and becoming, and are in some respects
preferable to whit* shirts. They may be worn either with white
collars and cuffs, with collars and cuffs to match the shirt, or with collar to
match, with turned points of white.
TH E 5
proper
s to
tie for
% inches wide,
a Full Dress Suit
tied
is
by the wearer
a straight band of white lawn,
in a square bow with short
ends. Made-up ties should not be used. Satin and silk ties are not now
considered good form with full dress.
The Four-in-Hand Scarf, tied by the wearer, and the Teck, or made-up
Four-in-Hand, are by far the most fashionable scarfs of this year. The
proper width is 2 or 2% inches with the narrower width in most favor.
Ties of greater width than 1% inches have gone out entirely. They are
worn with every style of suit except the Full Dress. They are necessary
with the Prince Albert Suit for strict dress, and when so worn should be of
silk or satin, either plain white, white with delicate colored pattern, or in
solid tints of delicate colors, such as corn, mauve, saffron, azure, heliotrope,
pink, etc. For informal dress, street wear, business, etc., they may embrace
—
any material or color whatsoever, silk, satin, grenadine, crepe, pongee,
pique or duck, ranging from white to black and including both high and low
colors. Favorite grounds are indigos, with white or light blue spots of all
sizes, slates and electric blues with flame and flesh-colored spots. Silk
crepes and grenadines, embroidered with white and colors in small figures, are
the choicest things of the season. The delicate colorings and fabrics that are
most suitable for evening and house wear are worn this season a good deal upon
15
the street also. A scarf pin should not be worn with a Four-in-Handor Teck
scarf.
The Flat Scarf may be worn with half dress, for street, business or neg-
lige. The wide patterns should be avoided and the long and narrow shape
selected, that the shirt bosom may show upon each side of it to conform to
the prevailing lower cut of the vests. Any material or color may be worn,
as observed of the Four-in-Hand. A small scarf pin should always be worn
with a flat scarf.
The Windsor tie is most suitable for neglige dress, and may be worn with
a Sack Suit, with boating, yachting, hunting, shooting, or lounging gar-
ments, in the country, at the seaside or elsewhere, where ease goes before
stiffness and formality.
A made-up Windsor, or Windsor band bow, has been introduced this
season, and is a handsome and appropriate substitute for the Windsor,
which is difficult to tie nicely. The diagram herewith will show how to tie
the Windsor.
The De Joinville is a handsome scarf but little worn, mainly because of the
difficulty in tying it. It may either be worn with a
tied as shown
ring, or
in the accompanying diagram and secured with a pin. In bright colors it is
a handsome and suitable scarf for street wear with a Prince Albert Suit, and
in delicate colors is no less suitable for house wear, although not at present
fashionable with strict dress. Before wearing, it should be folded and
pressed with an iron, to form a band about the neck, the ends remaining
un pressed.
Gloves.
FO R wornbe
occasions of high ceremony gloves
on all occasions when
must be worn
full dress is essential.
; and they should
For full dress,
pearl colored kids with stitching of the same color and of medium width, are
the only proper wear.
i6
For the street, and for calling, tan gloves with similar colored or black
siitching are proper. Undressed tan kids are also very popular for walk-
ing gloves.
For driving, heavy tan gloves of castor, dogskin, or other heavier leather,
with heavy black pitching and brown lisle gloves with kid lined fingers
;
Hats.
Suit for street wear. With this a tall white hat may be worn if desired.
With a Sack Suit wear anything whatsoever but a silk hat, which should
never accompany it.
Shoes.
FO R full dress, the shoes should be of patent leather with gaiter tops
in imitation of silk stockings.
For half dress, button shoes with patent leather uppers with kid or dark
cloth tops are correct. The toes are round and of moderate width.
For the street, a leather laced gaiter shoe with round toe and toe-cap is
For neglige, yachting, the seaside, etc., a shoe of russet calf, either
Wear. -*^ dinners, at the theatre and the opera with parties,
wear only a Full Dress Suit. It
at parlor concerts, etc.,
may also be worn with propriety on any occasion and in any place whatever
during the evening.
For formal evening calls either the Full Dress or the Prince Albert Suit
may be worn.
For social evening calls, at informal or family dinners, at the theatre,
opera or concert, except with parties, either the Full Dress, Prince Albert or
Cutaway Suits may be worn.
For afternoon wear, for the promenade, for outdoor social occasions, such
as race-meetings, etc., wear either the Prince Albert or the Cutaway.
For business wear either the Cutaway or the Sack.
For neglige, at picnics, excursions, the seaside, the country, the moun-
tains, etc., wear the Sack, or the Norfolk, with Knickerbockers.
For yachting, wear blue flannel.
For tennis, bicycling, and other athletic suits, wear the special suits of
flannel prepared for each.
18
At*)'
or Windsor Scarf.
How to Tie a Four-in- H and.
Adjust the tie with long end to the right, stand before the glass, and follow diagram.
* * *
* * *
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
....
such as Gros Grains, Ottomans, Baratheas, Armures,
Armozeens, Nattes, Mattelasses.
......
For Summer, Silk Crepes, Grenadines and Zephyrs,
Piques, Linens, etc.
mui
014 149 108 8