How Does My Car’s Fuel System Work?

how a fuel system worksFuel is essential to the engine and is a vital element in the combustion process
so that it may convert it to energy to propel your vehicle. It is mixed with air, ignited, and eventually
converted to exhaust. If you haven’t noticed, though, with most cars, the fuel tank is towards the back
end and the engine is in the front of the vehicle. How does the fuel get to the engine? What happens
with the fuel once you’ve filled up the tank? Read on to find out how a car’s fuel system works and how
to maintain it so that your car continues to use fuel in the most efficient way possible.

Ideally, when your vehicle’s gas gauge gets down to a quarter tank, you pull into your favorite fueling
station and fill up the tank. The gas station pump is where fuel begins its journey:

From the pump to the tanks the gas travels through the fuel pump. The pump sends fuel from the gas
tank to the engine. Some vehicles are equipped with multiple gas tanks and even multiple fuel pumps.
Multiple fuel pumps are ideal for ensuring the vehicle always has access to fuel no matter the terrain
that the vehicle is traveling on. For example, if a vehicle is making a sharp turn or traveling on a steep
incline and gravity forces fuel away from one fuel pump, it guarantees that at least one of the pumps
has access to fuel.

The pump forces fuel through the fuel lines that deliver fuel from the tank to the engine for combustion.
Fuel lines are made of durable metal, plastic materials and though they are located in the undercarriage
of the vehicle, and seemingly in a vulnerable position, they are placed in areas that cannot be damaged
due to elements, road conditions, or exposure to heat from the engine’s exhaust or other components.

The fuel filter is the next stop for gasoline before it reaches your engine. It is imperative that the fuel
that enters the engine be uncontaminated and free from dirt or particulates. To prevent any debris from
entering the engine, the fuel filter will aid in removing dirt or debris. A clogged or dirty fuel filter is
unable to trap harmful particulates from entering your engine and cause all sorts of damage. Newer
vehicles may not have serviceable fuel filters as they are located in the fuel tank. Replacing the filter
requires replacing the entire set up.

Once passed through the fuel filter, the fuel reaches the engine and is in injected into the combustion
chamber to create combustion utilizing fuel injectors.

Fuel Injection: Past, Present, and Future

In the past, vehicles utilized carburetors to create the right mix of air and fuel for combustion. A
carburetor uses the pressure created from suction by the engine to bring in the air. While this
accomplishes what the vehicle requires, it wasn’t entirely reliable with fluctuating RPMs. The throttle
determines how much air and fuel is required based on the vehicle’s current speed and demand on the
engine. With varying RPMs, this results in poorer fuel economy and the carburetor struggle to run
smoothly.

To combat the struggles of carburetors, fuel injection systems were introduced beginning with
mechanical fuel injection. While an improvement, as mechanical fuel injection systems were able to
gauge the correct amount of fuel required for the engine and deliver it directly via injection, they still
required tuning, like carburetors, for best performance.

Electronic fuel injection is the norm in most vehicles today. It’s a newer and more advanced system
controlled by the Electronic Control Unit (ECU), and is ideal for many reasons including improved fuel
efficiency and better performance. The fuel pressure regulator maintains a specified amount of fuel
pressure, so the injectors, based on calculations from the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, observe how
much air enters the engine. This allows the ECU to calculate and determine how much fuel is needed to
meet the optimal fuel to air ratio determined by the manufacturer. Electronic fuel injection uses a
pressure regulator to maintain an even pressure that draws fuel to the injectors which then spray a mist
of fuel into the combustion chamber. Direct fuel injection systems, synonymous with diesel engines,
have one injector per cylinder that delivers fuel directly to the combustion chambers.

In the future, the fuel injection process can only improve with better precision to create maximum
efficiency and less waste. Some speculate that diesel may be the key to improvement, though, diesel
does have its own set of disadvantages, as well.

Fuel System Maintenance for Your Car

After driving so many miles, the wear on your car can affect its performance. That’s why routine
maintenance on your vehicle is so important. Can you imagine if you never changed your oil? Your
engine wouldn’t last long. The same can be said for any major component in your vehicle. Having your
fuel system serviced regularly can help prevent the inconvenience of a failed fuel pump, ensures optimal
fuel efficiency, and the very best performance intended for your vehicle.

At Sun Devil Auto, we know the fuel system and just what it needs to continue operating for peak
performance. Replacing your fuel filter every 60,000 miles as well as a fuel system cleaning every 30,000
miles is one of the best ways to ensure your vehicle continues processing and burning fuel properly. We
offer a 4-Step Fuel System Cleaning that will make your car feel “like new” again. Schedule your
appointment today for the Sun Devil Auto 4-Step Fuel System Cleaning which includes:
Engine De-carbon – Breaks up the varnish in the engine allowing the valves to close completely, attain
maximum compression, and improves the atomization of fuel.

Fuel Injection Service – Enhance spray from a drip to a mist for better use of fuel by cleaning the needle
of the injector and removing pooled or puddled fuel collected on the tops of injectors.

Throttle Body Service – As carbon builds up in the throttle body, closing the butterfly seal becomes more
difficult and thus stays slightly ajar, increasing idle and decreasing fuel economy. Additionally, the
buildup is removed from vital sensors, such as the MAF, to enhance performance.

Fuel Additive – Over time, moisture collects in your fuel tank. The additive is meant to remove any
moisture as well as continue to clean your fuel injectors as you drive.

Electrical Fuel Pump Problems

Electrical problems

It makes sense that, in an electric pump, the most common problem is an electric one. A high number of
electrical components implies a high number of connections, multiplying the risk of an electrical circuit
malfunction.

What are the symptoms?

No matter what is causing the electrical problem, the fuse, the wiring, etc., the symptoms will all be
much the same. When no power reaches the fuel pump it simply stops working. The engine will burn
what’s left of fuel in the fuel lines and it will stall. The problem can be intermittent and the engine will
jerk, stall, start again, jerk some more, and so on.

How to fix it

If you went to auto mechanic trade school, you learned how to follow a standard procedure to identify
an electrical problem. If you don’t, let me demonstrate it quickly:

Confirm the problem

Test for power at the malfunctioning component

Check the power source, fuse, and relay

Inspect the wiring

Change the ECM

First, make sure the problem is present. You can’t find a problem if it’s not present. Simple as that!

Normally, as for a power window regulator or a malfunctioning headlight, the next step is to measure
the voltage at the regulator or headlight bulb. But, especially for a fuel pump, I suggest you switch step 2
and 3. It’s way easier to check the fuel pump fuse and relay than it is to remove the back seat or the tank
to have access to the fuel pump connector. Just make sure the fuse is ok and the relay is clicking when
you turn the ignition key on.

Open circuit testing

If everything is good up to now, you need to get to the connector of the fuel pump and test it for power
and ground. If there are current and ground in the connector, and the connector pins seem alright, you
probably got yourself a faulty fuel pump. You can always test for an open circuit in the pump. If the
circuit is open inside the fuel pump, there’s no need for further testing, you need a new pump. If the
internal circuit of the pump is ok, something mechanical may still be broken inside. It doesn’t matter
what component is broken inside because, unless you want to rebuild the fuel pump, you’ll have to
replace the fuel pump assembly.
If you don’t have power to the fuel pump connector, you are allowed to cry a little before starting to
strip the car’s interior. You’ve got an electrical short or open circuit somewhere and you’ll have to follow
the wires, testing for power and ground until you find that faulty wire or connector.

At the end of every troubleshooting chart ever made, there’s always the absolute last resort option. If
you checked everything and everything is absolutely perfect, they always suggest you replace the ECM,
but that’s very unlikely… If all seems good on the electrical side, it could be something else. I suggest you
try to eliminate other common problems on this list before trying to replace your ECM!

Worth mentioning, if you have an OBD2 scan tool, you can always try to read the DTCs before doing
anything else. Some newer car can record a code when the fuel pump is not working correctly, giving
you a good idea of where to go next…

Mechanical problems

Even though this pump is electrical, the pump action is actually created by moving mechanical parts and
everything in motion is prone to wear and abrasion. Various parts can become loose or seize together
preventing the fuel pump to work correctly.

What are the symptoms?

In case something goes berserk in the fuel pump and either seize or become loose, the fuel pump will
probably stop working. In this case, the symptoms will be almost exactly the same as for the electrical
problem. The engine will jerk and stall. Because mechanical wear is progressive, the owner of the car
may see it coming, compared to the electrical problem which will happen suddenly.

Bad Fuel Pump

The car can begin to feel like it’s losing power when driving uphill. Fuel consumption can also go up for
no apparent reason. Slight jerking can also be felt when pressing on the accelerator pedal after a stop.
Cold start in the morning could also become a problem and the engine may take a little more cranking to
start.

How to fix it
There no easy way to really identify a mechanical problem, other than checking the fuel pressure with a
fuel pressure gauge. Unfortunately, most cars don’t come with a fuel pressure inspection port anymore
(it was pretty common with cars made in the 60s-70s). If the car is not equipped with one, you’ll need to
open the fuel system at one of the line’s connection and insert your fuel gauge before reinstalling
everything to start the engine and get a psi reading.

If the pressure is too low or too high, make sure there’s no damage to the fuel line, somewhere under
the car, that could limit the flow of gasoline.

If everything seems alright, the problem is most likely an internal mechanical problem with the fuel
pump. All you have to do is to replace the fuel pump assembly once again.

Clogged strainer

On the intake port of the fuel pump, there’s a little strainer acting as a fuel filter. Rust and dirt contained
in the tank can clog the strainer and prevent fuel from correctly entering the fuel pump.

What are the symptoms?

This kind of problem could lead to an uneven delivery of the fuel to the injectors causing engine jerks or
sputters. Sputtering may only occur for a few minutes at a time before returning back to normal,
however, be certain that it won’t fix itself and may aggravate later.

Based on my own experience though, this is not a really common problem. Gasoline, these days, is
cleaner than ever and finding dirt in a tank is unusual. This is a problem happening mostly with older and
rusty cars.

How to fix it

Inspect the tank and the strainer. If it’s full of rust, you could have found the problem. Unfortunately,
you’ll have to remove the fuel pump to confirm the strainer is clogged and this will require the rear seat
removal at best (some cars have an access port to the pump under the back seat), the fuel tank
complete removal at worst.
clogged fuel pump strainer

If the strainer is clogged, you could clean the strainer using a portable vacuum and remove all the small
metal bits by hand. You could also buy a new strainer at most auto part stores and replace it if your
budget is tight. Personally, taking into account that you have already removed the fuel tank or back,
removed the fuel pump to inspect it, most of the job is already done. I would probably replace the
whole pump assembly anyway unless your fuel pump has already been replaced in the last 6 month.

And it also depends on the price of the fuel pump. Most aftermarket pumps are pretty cheap but you
never know. Sometimes, some parts are just plain expensive for apparently no real reason.

But if you can afford it, just replace the whole thing…

In the case of a vehicle with a “crank/no start” condition, the first thing to do is to listen near the fuel
tank if you can hear a slight buzzing noise when the key is turned to the on position. If not, the fuel
pump may well be seized. A trick-of-the-trade here is to use a soft-face hammer to hit under the tank.
The fuel pump may well start to work again. Once it’s started, I wouldn’t stop the engine until the car is
parked somewhere you can work and fix that out though!

Whining noise coming from the fuel pump

When the key is in the ON or RUN position, it is absolutely normal to hear a slight buzzing noise coming
from the fuel pump. It’s not a common problem but, sometimes, the fuel pump could start to make a
loud whining noise. This is usually a sign that the fuel pump is almost at the end of its life.

How to fix it

The first thing to try when your car starts to make a loud whining noise coming from the rear is to fill up
the gas tank completely. A low fuel level requires the pump to work harder to build a good fuel pressure
in the system and it could why it’s whining, especially if the pump is old.

If the noise stops after refilling the tank, that’s a sign that the fuel pump will need to be replaced soon. It
still works but it’s going to fail at some point and the car risk to stall somewhere.
If the noise doesn’t stop after new gas is put in the car, there’s no other solution than to replace the
pump.

whining noise, hard starting, engine performance issues, and an inability to start the car.

Direct-Injection (GDI) High-Pressure Pumps

Mechanical Problems

Proper maintenance is absolutely crucial with GDI systems. As opposed to an electric fuel pump, which is
running inside a fuel tank with almost no lubricant at all, the GDI pump is lubricated by the engine oil. A
lot like the mechanical fuel pump, the high-pressure pump is also driven mechanically. Premature wear
can occur quickly on various components in contact, such as the cam lobe and the follower, if oil service
is not performed as often as required by the manufacturer or if a different oil viscosity is used.

q encoding UTF8&ASIN B06XSW8H8N&Format SL160 &ID AsinImage&MarketPlace US&ServiceVersion

20070822&WS 1&tag themechanicdo 20&language en US&is pending load 1 ir t themechanicdo 20
language en US l li2 o 1 a B06XSW8H8N is pending load 1

GDI fuel pump

What are the symptoms?

Typically, when a mechanical failure occurs on a GDI pump, the pressure in the system will decrease and
the high-pressure won’t be that high anymore. Usually, the vehicle will put itself on “LIMP” mode and
will most of the time indicate LIMP (or something similar depending on the manufacturer) on the
dashboard. The LIMP mode is a safety procedure that will greatly reduce the speed the car can go in
order to prevent the driver from damaging the engine even more.

How to fix it

First, scan the car and read the DTCs. Most of the time, a code is recorded whenever the vehicle enters
LIMP mode. This will give you a good idea of the faulty component.

If for some reason no code is recorded, make sure the problem doesn’t come from the conventional fuel
pump in the tank. If the electric fuel pump is not working and it is not feeding fuel like it’s supposed to,
the GDI pump won’t be able to do its job either.
Once you made sure the in-tank pump is working, you’ll have to test the fuel pressure coming out of the
high-pressure pump, a lot like you would do the fuel pressure on a regular fuel system. If the pressure is
not according to specifications, a new GDI pump is needed.

Warning

Always make sure to follow all high-pressure fuel system depressurization procedures before servicing.
One good technique to depressurize the fuel system is to remove the fuel pump relay and keep the
engine running until it stalls. Still, always confirm the system is empty before disassembling and always
follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Pressure and temperature sensors

Bad sensors can often lead to misdiagnosis of faulty GDI pump when it’s really a faulty sensor problem.
The pump relies on high and low-pressure sensors, as well as, temperature sensors to evaluate the
amount of fuel needed and the exact timing and duration of the injection. If a sensor is misreading any
value, the pump won’t be able to work correctly and the vehicle could enter LIMP mode.

What are the symptoms?

OEM Scanner

Depending on the faulty sensor and the extent of the failure, symptoms could go from jerking to
complete stall. Most of the time, the vehicle will enter LIMP mode and the check engine light will light
up.

How to fix it

To find out which sensor is causing the problem, you’ll need to plug in a good OBD2 scan tool to check
the live data of the vehicle and the vehicle’s repair manual with all the sensors specification to compare
the results. Usually, the faulty sensor will show a reading out of the recommended threshold. Replace
the sensor, erase the code and confirm everything is back to normal.
Fuel Leaks

An internal or external fuel pump leak will cause the fuel pressure to decrease, also leading to jerking
and stalling. Reduced pressure can also lead to overheating which could damage the pump and the
whole fuel system even more.

What are the symptoms?

When a small leak is present, the fuel system will most likely depressurize when the engine is turned off.
This will cause longer cranking time to fire up the engine. Overheating of the pump is also to be
expected whenever the car runs on reduced fuel pressure. Overheating will reduce the lubricant
property of engine oil and will cause a metal to metal contact. If the cam lobe and the follower run dry
for an extended period of time, permanent damage to the cam lobe could occur and the camshaft will
have to be replaced as well as the GDI fuel pump.

q encoding UTF8&ASIN B01JINQEFO&Format SL160 &ID AsinImage&MarketPlace US&ServiceVersion

20070822&WS 1&tag themechanicdo 20&language en US&is pending load 1 ir t themechanicdo 20
language en US l li2 o 1 a B01JINQEFO is pending load 1

GDI fuel pump follower

How to fix it

To find a leak in a high-pressure fuel system, you’ll need to perform an injector balance and a leakdown
test. This is not beginner auto mechanics and often require the use of an OEM scan tool or at least a
professional OBD2 scanner with special features enabled. This is not a common occurrence though, and
I strongly recommend you begin your troubleshooting with other quicker check-ups first.

Software Problems

Finally, if everything else fails, take some time to make sure the ECM software’s version is up to date
with the latest update available because everything is ultimately controlled by the ECM. Manufacturers
won’t necessarily call every car owner to get the latest version installed every time a new update is
released. This will also require an OEM scan tool or a visit to the dealership for a quick reflash.