CBLM EPAS Core 2

Date Developed: Document No.
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS September 20, 2016

ASSEMBLY AND SERVICING
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ELECTRONICS PRODUCT ASSEMBLY AND
SERVICING NCII
Sector : ELECTRONICS
Qualification Title/ Level : ELECTRONICS PRODUCT ASSEMBLY AND

SERVICING NCII
Unit of competency : SERVICE CONSUMER ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS
AND SYSTEMS
Module Title : SERVICING CONSUMER ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS
AND SYSTEMS
HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIAL
Welcome to the module in “SERVICE CONSUMER ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS AND SYSTEMS ”.This
module contains training materials and activities for you to complete.
You are required to go through a series of learning in order to complete each learning outcomes of this module.
In each learning outcomes are Information Sheets, Self Checks, operation sheets and job Sheets. Follow these
activities on your own. If you have questions, please don’t hesitate to ask your trainer for assistance.
The goal of this course is the development of practical skills. To gain these skills, you must learn basic concepts
and terminology. For most part, you’ll get this information from the information sheets and TESDA website,
www.tesda.gov.ph.
This module was prepared to help you achieve the required competency in“SERVICE CONSUMER
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS AND SYSTEMS ”This will be the source of information for you to acquire
knowledge and skills in this particular competency independently and at your own pace, with minimum
supervision or help from your trainer.
Remember to:
Work through all the information and complete the activities in each section.
Read information sheets and complete the self check. Suggested references are included to supplement the
materials provided in this module.
Most probably your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He/She is there to support you and show
you the correct way to do things.

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You will be given plenty of opportunity to ask questions and practice on the job. Make sure you practice new
skills during regular working shifts. This way you will improve both your speed and memory and also your
confidence.
Use the Self Checks, Operation Sheets or Job Sheets at the end of each section to test your own progress.
When you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, ask you trainer to evaluate you. The results of
your assessment will be recorded in your Progress Chart and Accomplishment Chart.
You need to complete this module before you can perform the next module
Recognition of Prior Learning(RPL)
If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are competent in a particular skill, talk to him about having
them formally recognized so you would not have to undergo the same training again. If you have a qualification
or certificate of competency from previous training's, show it to your trainer. If the skills you have acquired are
still relevant to this module, they may become part of the evidence you can present for RPL. If you are not sure
about the level of your skills, discuss this with your trainer.
ELECTRONICS PRODUCT ASSEMBLY AND SERVICING NCII

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COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIALS
LIST OF COMPETENCIES
No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code

1 Assemble Electronic Products Assembling Electronic Products ELC724335
2 Service consumer electronic Servicing consumer electronic ELC724336

products and systems products and systems
3 Service industrial electronic Servicing industrial electronic ELC724337

modules, products and systems modules, products and systems

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MODULE CONTENT
SERVICE CONSUMER ELECTRONIC

UNIT OF COMPETENCIES:
PRODUCTS AND SYSTEMS
SERVICING CONSUMER ELECTRONIC
MODULE TITLE:
PRODUCTS AND SYSTEMS
CONTENT:
 Audio-Video products and systems

 Different kinds of electrical power
 Assembly Proper care and use of tools
 Component
- Soldering Technology
- Reflow soldering
- Wave soldering
- Hand soldering
- RoHS and lead-free soldering
- Nonsolder Connections (terminal block
 Corrective and preventive maintenance

 Upgrading of technology
 The role of rosters and their importance in controlling staff costs
 Factors to be considered when developing rosters
 Formats for the presentation of staff rosters and details to be included
 Formats for the presentation of staff rosters and details to be included
 Knowledge on area of operation for which roster is being developed.
 Organizing information

NOMINAL DURATION:
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LEARNING OUTCOMES: Date Developed: Document No.

At the end of this module
ASSEMBLY you MUST be able to:
AND SERVICING
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LO2. Install industrial electronic modules/ products/ systems

LO3. Diagnose faults and defects
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LO4. Maintain/Repair industrial electronic products
Document No.
LO5. Reassemble and test repaired Date
industrial electronic products
Developed:
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SUMMARY OF ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Complete check-up of industrial electronic components, products and systems is conducted and defects are
identified, verified and documented against customer description.
2. Repair/maintenance history is verified in line with the company procedures.
3. Service manuals and service information required for repair/maintenance are acquired as per standard
procedure.
4. Workplace is set/prepared for repair job in line with the company requirements.
5. Necessary tools, test instruments and personal protective equipment are prepared in line with job
requirements
6. Materials necessary to complete the work are obtained in accordance with job requirements.
7. Consumer electronic products and systems are installed in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions,
requirements, and without damage to the surrounding place or environment
8. Devices are tested in accordance with standard procedures.

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9. Final inspections are undertaken to ensure that the installed devices conforms to technical requirements.
10. Unplanned events or conditions are responded to in accordance with established procedures
11. Work site is cleaned and cleared of all debris and left safe in accordance with the company requirements
12. Report on installation and testing of equipment is prepared according to company’s procedures/policies.
13. Systematic pre-testing procedure is observed in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions.
14. System defects/Fault symptoms are identified using appropriate tools and equipment and troubleshooting
techniques and in accordance with safety procedures
15. Test instruments required for the job are used in accordance with user manuals.
16. Circuits are checked and isolated using specified testing procedures
17. Identified defects and faults are explained to the responsible person in accordance with enterprise or
company policy and procedures
18. Control settings/adjustments are checked in conformity with service-manual specifications.
19. Results of diagnosis and testing are documented accurately and completely within the specified time.
20. Customers are advised/informed regarding the status and serviceability of the unit according to procedures.
21. Personal protective equipment is used in accordance with Occupational Health and Safety practices.
22. Electro-static discharge (ESD) protection procedure is followed in accordance with current industry
standards.
23. Defective parts/components are replaced with identical or recommended appropriate equivalent ratings
24. Repaired or replaced parts/components are soldered/mounted in accordance with the current industry
standards.
25. Control settings/adjustments are performed in conformity with service-manual specifications
26. Repair activity is performed within the required timeframe
27. Care and extreme precaution in handling the unit/product is observed as per procedures
28. Cleaning of unit is performed in accordance with standard procedures
29. Excess components and materials are disposed of based on WEEE directives and 3Rs waste management
program
30. Repaired units are reassembled according to procedures
31. Reassembled units are subjected to final testing and cleaning in conformity with manufacturer’s
specifications
32. Service completion procedures and documentations are complied with based on manual.

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33. Waste materials are disposed of in accordance with environmental requirements.
LEARNING OUTCOME SUMMARY
PREPARE UNIT, TOOLS AND WORKPLACE FOR

LEARNING OUTCOME 1 INSTALLATION / SERVICING
CONTENTS:
 Audio-Video products and systems

- Radio receivers
- Audio recorders
 Different kinds of electrical power
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
Assembly workplace is prepared in accordance with OH&S policies and procedures

Established risk control measures for work preparation are followed.
Work instructions are obtained and clarified based on job order or client requirements
Responsible person is consulted for effective and proper work coordination
Required materials, tools and equipment are prepared and checked in accordance with established procedures
Parts and components needed to complete the work are identified, prepared and obtained according to
requirements
CONDITION: Document No.

Date Developed:
The students/trainees must be provided
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS with theSeptember
following:20, 2016
May include: NC II Issued By:
ESD-free
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Variable power supply Oscilloscope, digital of 92
Variable transformer High-grade magnifying glass with lamp
Soldering iron Flashlight/headlamp Document No.
Date Developed:
Hot airELECTRONIC
soldering station
PRODUCTS Cleaning brush
September 20, 2016
Table top reflow oven
ASSEMBLY AND SERVICING Soldering wire
Desoldering
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Screwdriver (assorted) Developed By:
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Wrenches (assorted) Assorted electronic components
Allen wrench/key Assorted electronic sensors
Function/Signal generator Date Developed: Document No.
ELECTRONIC
Mufti-testers PRODUCTS
(analog/digital) September 20, 2016
Utility knife/stripper SERVICING
ASSEMBLY AND
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ASSESSMENT METHOD: 92
Oral Questioning or Interview Document No.

Date Developed:
Practical Demonstration
Third-party workplace
ASSEMBLY reports
ANDofSERVICING
on-the-job performance by the candidate
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LEARNING EXPERIENCES
Learning Outcome 1 : PREPARE UNIT, TOOLS AND WORKPLACE FOR INSTALLATION /

SERVICING
Learning Activities Special Instructions

Read Information Sheet 1.1 If you have some problems on Information Sheet 1-1,
don’t hesitate to approach your facilitator. If you feel
you are knowledgeable on the content of Information
Sheet 1-1, you can now answer Self-Check 1-1.
2. Answer Self Check 1.1 Compare your answer with the answer key 1-1. If you
got 100% correct answer in this self-check, you can
now move to the next information sheet. If not review
the information sheet and go over the self-check
again.

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INFORMATION SHEET 2.1-1
Audio-Video products and

systems

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A. RADIO RECEIVER
What are the types of radio receivers?
It doesn't matter whether you are a short wave listener, an A.M. radio dx'er, into hobby electronics or amateur radio design, the
broad basic principles will still apply. Here we will briefly discuss the radio receiver basics as they apply to:
Basic crystal set.

A T.R.F. Receiver.

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A Superhetrodyne Receiver.
The Reflex Receiver.
This electronics tutorials site is totally free for you to use and is financed wholly by click revenue derived from our sponsors
who mainly advertise at the top of the pages and some other below. By visiting their different sites you demonstrate your very
practical support for this valuable free site and for our sponsors as well.
1. The first receiver built by a hobbyist is usually the plain old crystal radio set. If you are unfamiliar with the design then
check out the crystal radio set page.
2. The earliest receivers built were of the tuned radio frequency TRF variety. Here all the stages were made to tune
simultaneously to the received frequency. Some tuned radio frequency TRF receivers we very elaborate but suffered a number
of disadvantages overcome by the superhetrodyne principle.
3. A superhetrodyne receiver works on the principle the receiver has a local oscillator called a variable frequency oscillator or
V.F.O.
This is a bit like having a little transmitter located within the receiver. Now if we still have our T.R.F. stages but then mix the
received signal with our v.f.o. we get two other signals. (V.F.O. + R.F) and (V.F.O. - R.F).
In a traditional a.m. radio where the received signal is in the range 540 Khz to 1650 Khz the v.f.o. signal is always a constant
455 Khz higher or 995 Khz to 2105 Khz.
Several advantages arise from this and we will use our earlier example of the signal of 540 Khz:
(a) The input signal stages tune to 540 Khz. The adjacent channels do not matter so much now because the only signal to
discriminate against is called the i.f. image. At 540 Khz the v.f.o. is at 995 Khz giving the constant difference of 455 Khz which
is called the IF frequency. However a received frequency of v.f.o. + i.f. will also result in an i.f. frequency, i.e. 995 Khz + 455
Khz or 1450 Khz, which is called the i.f. image.
Put another way, if a signal exists at 1450 Khz and mixed with the vfo of 995 Khz we still get an i.f. of 1450 - 995 = 455 Khz.
Double signal reception. Any reasonable tuned circuit designed for 540 Khz should be able to reject signals at 1450 Khz. And
that is now the sole purpose of the r.f. input stage.
(b) At all times we will finish up with an i.f. signal of 455 Khz. It is relatively easy to design stages to give constant
amplification, reasonable bandwidth and reasonable shape factor at this one constant frequency. Radio design became somewhat
simplified but of course not without its associated problems.
We will now consider these principles in depth by discussing a fairly typical a.m. transistor radio of the very cheap variety.

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THE SUPERHETRODYNE TRANSISTOR RADIO RECEIVER
I have chosen to begin radio receiver design with the cheap am radio because:
(a) nearly everyone either has one or can buy one quite cheaply. Don't buy an A.M. / F.M. type because it will only confuse you
in trying to identify parts. Similarly don't get one of the newer I.C. types.
Just a plain old type probably with at least 3 transformers. One "red" core and the others likely "yellow" and "black" or "white".
Inside will be a battery compartment, a little speaker, a circuit board with weird looking components, a round knob to control
volume.
(b) most receivers will almost certainly for the most part follow the schematic diagram I have set out below.
(c) if I have included pictures you know I was able to borrow either a digital camera or had access to a scanner.
Important NOTE: If you can obtain discarded or broken "tranny's" (Australian for transistorised am radio receiver) by all means
do so because they are a cheap source of valuable parts. So much so that to duplicate the receiver as a kit project for learning
purposes costs about $A70 or $US45. Incredible. That is why colleges in Australia and elsewhere can not afford to present one
as a kit for students to construct.
THE REFLEX RADIO RECEIVER
Such a receiver includes a reflex amplifier and is one which is used to amplify at two frequencies - usually both the intermediate
and audio frequencies.

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Figure 1 - a.m. bcb radio schematic
There are no parts values shown as this schematic is purely for illustration purposes.
VIDEO RECORDER:
AUDIO SIGNAL

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An audio signal is a representation of sound, typically as an electrical voltage. Audio signals have frequencies in the audio
frequency range of roughly 20 to 20,000 Hz (the limits of human hearing). Audio signals may be synthesized directly, or may
originate at a transducer such as a microphone, musical instrument pickup, phonograph cartridge, or tape head. Loudspeakers or
headphones convert an electrical audio signal into sound. Digital representations of audio signals exist in a variety of formats.
An audio channel or audio track is an audio signal communications channel in a storage device, used in operations such as
multi-track recording and sound reinforcement.
Signal flow
Signal flow is the path an audio signal will take from source (microphone) to the speaker or recording device. It is most
frequently in a recording studio setting, where the signal flow is often very long and convoluted as the electric signal may pass
through many sections of a large analog console, external audio equipment, and even different rooms.

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Parameters
Audio signals may be characterized by parameters such as their bandwidth, power level in decibels (dB), and
voltage level. The relation between power and voltage is determined by the impedance of the signal path, which
may be single-ended or balanced.
Audio signals have somewhat standardized levels depending on application. Outputs of professional mixing
consoles are most commonly at line level. Microphones generally output at a lower level, commonly referred to
a "mic level". Consumer audio equipment will also output at a lower level.

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Digital equivalent

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As much of the older analog audio equipment has been emulated in digital form, usually through the development of audio
plug-ins for digital audio workstation (DAW) software, the path of digital information through the DAW (i.e. from an audio
track through a plug-in and out a hardware output) is also called an audio signal or signal flow.
A digital audio signal being sent through wire can use several formats including optical (ADAT, TDIF), coaxial (S/PDIF), XLR
(AES/EBU), and Ethernet
Audio editing software
An audio production facility at An-Najah National University

Audio editing software is software which allows editing and generating of audio data. Audio editing software can be
implemented completely or partly as library, as computer application, as Web application or as a loadable kernel module. Wave
Editors are digital audio editors and there are many sources of software available to perform this function. Most can edit music,
apply effects and filters, adjust stereo channels etc.
A digital audio workstation (DAW) consists of software to a great degree, and usually is composed of many distinct software
suite components, giving access to them through a unified graphical user interface using GTK+, Qt or some other library for the
GUI widgets.

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For use with music
Editors designed for use with music typically allow the user to do the following:
The ability to import and export various audio file formats for editing.
Record audio from one or more inputs and store recordings in the computer's memory as digital audio
Edit the start time, stop time, and duration of any sound on the audio timeline
Fade into or out of a clip (e.g. an S-fade out during applause after a performance), or between clips (e.g. crossfading between
takes)
Mix multiple sound sources/tracks, combine them at various volume levels and pan from channel to channel to one or more
output tracks
Apply simple or advanced effects or filters, including compression, expansion, flanging, reverb, audio noise reduction and
equalization to change the audio
Playback sound (often after being mixed) that can be sent to one or more outputs, such as speakers, additional processors, or a
recording medium
Conversion between different audio file formats, or between different sound quality levels
Typically these tasks can be performed in a manner that is non-linear. Audio editors may process the audio data non-
destructively in real-time, or destructively as an "off-line" process, or a hybrid with some real-time effects and some off-line
effects.

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DVD/VCD Player

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Problems playing/reading certain CDs
While you may be tempted to blame *Big Brother* and some sort of diabolical copy protection scheme, I doubt
that CD dependent behavior has anything to do with a lower intelligence at work. :) More likely, it is a bad
quality control on the pressing. (This assumes your CD isn't one of those which has 85 minutes of music
squeezed into a 74 minute space. See the section: Problems with extended length discs.)
First, check for physical damage or imperfections on both sides of the CD. Even if you find nothing, trying a
replacement disc would probably be a good idea before ripping apart your CD player.
However, it may just be CD which produces an unusually low signal level.
Depending on manufacturer, the signal level from CDs can vary by quite a large amount - maybe 30 percent
(just guessing). Telarc discs were (maybe still are) particularly bad in this regard. CD-Rs are also quite variable
and generally worse than normal CDs. (See the section: Problems reading CD-Rs). If the player is somewhat
marginal to begin with (no way to really predict this), low signal level may mean either it won't recognize the
disc at all or will be subject to skipping, audible noise, and other play problems.
An internal adjustment might help but my advice would be that if it only occurs with a small percentage of CDs,
better to leave well enough alone.
However, a proper lens cleaning won't hurt! See the section: "General inspection, cleaning, and lubrication". If
you really won't sleep knowing there might be something else you can do, see the "General servo adjustment
procedure". I definitely don't recommend attempting to boost laser power - which would be considered a last
resort.
Note that newer CD players and CDROM drives may be more tolerant of damaged discs as well as CD-Rs
(which became popular only relatively recently) - you may just be expecting too much from that 15 year old
machine!

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Problems with extended length discs
The specifications for the length of an audio CD is just over 74 minutes. I have seen them as long as 78 or 80
minutes which means that some of the basic CD specifications have been compromised - either the track pitch
has been reduced or the track extends closer to the outside edge of the disc - or both. If the track pitch has been
reduced, there could be tracking or audible noise problems throughout the disc. If the track extends closer to the
outer edge, there could be problems near the end of the discs. The player may not these discs at all. Any of the
following symptoms are possible:
No problems. Your player is one of those that is perfectly happy playing really long CDs. Most players will
indeed be unaffected.
The disc may be rejected resulting in the display showing 'disc' or 'error' as though damaged, improperly
inserted, or missing. In this case, the CD player's microbrain simply thinks anything with a total playing time
exceeding 74 minutes and 15 seconds is invalid.
Unless you want to redesign the player, there is nothing you can do to play these CDs. It might only require
changing a single byte in the player's firmware :-).
There may be more of a tendency for skipping, sticking, or audible noise (probably near the end though it could
happen anywhere if the track pitch has been reduced - including inability to read the disc's directory) since the
servos are operating slightly outside their normal range. The actual likelihood of these types of problems are
very slight, however.
It may be possible to adjust the servos as described in the chapter: "Servo Systems and CD Player Adjustments".
As with any adjustments, there is some risk of affecting performance for all discs - or totally messing things up.
Or, if problems only occur near the end of these discs, just don't play them to the end!
The sled on which the pickup is mounted ventures into new territory where no sled has ventured before (at least
on this player). Dirt, gummed up grease, hair, and other garbage may have collected there resulting in the sled
drive mechanism getting stuck. You may hear whirring, buzzing, or clicking as the motor attempts to move the
immovable - or nothing at all. Eventually, the player should probably shut down. In any case, kill power or
remove the batteries to prevent damage to the gears.

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With luck, all you need to do is move the sled manually toward the spindle by turning the proper gear (freeing it
up first, if necessary). Then clean and relube the track and gears. Hopefully, nothing is actually damaged since
locating a replacement part may prove to be a challenge.
The sled simply overran the end of the rack and the drive gear no longer is capable of returning it to more
familiar territory. You may hear some whirring, buzzing, or clicking as the gears attempt to mesh but do not
quite succeed.
Manually moving the sled so that the drive gear meshes with the rack - and then turning it a bit to be sure -
should restore operation but, of course, you should not attempt to play these extended length discs to the very
end in the future.
Problems reading CD-Rs
CD-Rs (recordable CDs, usually gold on the label side and greenish (or with newer ones like various
PlayStation discs, some other strange color) on the readout side) can be quite variable in quality. They are often
produced on a low cost writer of questionable design and calibration. It is quite common for a CD-R disc to
play/read fine on one drive and not be recognized at all on another. There may not be any relation between cost
of the CDROM drive and its reliability with CD-Rs.
Note that newer CDROM drives (and probably CD players as well) may be more tolerant of CD-Rs (as well as
of damaged normal CDs). 1X and even 4X CDROMs (as well as older CD players) predated the wide
availability of CD-Rs so they weren't designed with them in mind. As a byproduct, newer technology may be
more tolerant of bad normal CDs as well. So, there may in fact be an advantage to using high-X CDROM
drives! So, it still has nothing to do with the high-X part, just that the low level circuits are smarter!
Problems recording CD-Rs
Consistently recording high quality CD-Rs is by no means as fool-proof as reading typical CDs. Any problems
affect the recording quality permanently.
Media - there is significant variability in the quality and consistency of CD-R blanks from different
manufacturers. You may have to experiment with multiple brands to determine those that work for you in your

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CD-R writer.
Recorder - there may be significant variability in the performance of various manufacturer's hardware. High
price may not translate into high quality especially considering the rapid changes in the industry.
Writing speed - while it really should not matter whether you record at 1X or 4X (or whatever your machine
supports), this may not actually be the case. If the servo systems are less stable at the higher rate, the quality of
the recorded information may suffer. Thus, writing at a slower rate may be better - or may not matter. In any
case, experimentation at different writing speeds should determine if this is an issue.
Media cleanliness - you only get one shot. A speck of dust or fingerprint - which might just decrease the signal
to noise ratio when reading a CD - can degrade the writing laser beam resulting in malformed pits (oh no, not
the dreaded malformed pit disease!). Inspect each CD-R blank before inserting it into the writer. Reject it if you
see any visible surface damage or manufacturing defects. Use clean, dry compressed air if necessary to blow off
any dust or fluff. Clean the surface as you would a CD to remove any fingerprints or smudges.
Equipment maintenance - keep the recorder clean - periodic inspection and cleaning similar to that used for CD
players may be needed if it is used in a less than ideal environment - dust, smoke, and cooking vapors can
quickly coat the lens leading to lower quality recordings. Inspect, clean, and replace (as necessary) the caddies
(if used) as well since dirty or damaged caddies can cause problems as well.
Data under-runs - where the recorder does not have an internal buffer of sufficient size (yeh, like 650 MB!), it
expects to be fed at a high enough rate to always have data available to send to the writing laser. Any failure
will likely result in incorrect data being written - and probably a ruined disk. Some recorder software will
simply abort. Even running another application like a screen saver can result in uncertainties with respect to
data availability. When in doubt or where time is available, run the recorder at a slower speed to reduce the
required datarate.
Mechanical shock - locate the recorder on a stable surface - not the top of a printer or other equipment that may
be subject to movement during the duration of a recording session. Any vibration transmitted to the optical deck
may cause a momentary shift in the position of the lens and laser beam reducing the recording quality. Bump it
hard enough and the result will be mistracking and a ruined disk.

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There's an area of the CD-R disc used specifically to "calibrate" the laser. Since all disks have different needs
(gold versus blue/green dye, for example) one-for-all power level won't do. If you laser has lost its power (they
DO have a very finite life) which may be due to end-of-life OR dust on the lens (always consider a lens and any
other accessible optics cleaning first!), it will FAIL this write-test and you will get what you are seeing. I would
try a different color dye CD-R disc and see if there is one type it can still write to.
From what I read, there is enough "write-space" in the laser-power-test area of the CDR for close to 1000 tests -
which is why a new drive may work fine with your rejected discs.
So, clean the lens, then try different types/colors of CD-R discs and then, if that still yields no results, write off
the drive as "got my money's worth" and use it as a reader.
Voice (almost) missing from CD playback
My first thought would be to say "how can the electronics know about the voice separately?" Well, the answer is
"it cannot". However, due to the way vocals are often recorded, this behavior is possible, if unlikely. What must
happen is for the audio output to be the difference between the left and right channels mostly cancelling the
centered vocal track but not having as much effect on the audibility of the instruments.
It is possible for this to happen as a result of a bad ground connection or an electronic fault in the analog
circuitry following the D/A stage but it is quite unlikely to be due to a problem in the optical pickup or digital
decoding - though not out of the question.
What is suggested below can happen by accident should the shield connection to the headphone or line out jack
or cable become disconnected.
Actually, it is possible. Modify a headphone so that the two ground conductors are still connected together and
to each earpiece, but no longer connected to the sleeve of the headphone jack. The two "hots" remain connected
to tip and ring on the jack. Plug it in to a portable CD player and listen to a pop or country CD with (preferably)
a solo vocalist.
The vocals will almost disappear, while the instruments will still be quite audible (although now in mono).
Normally, the lead vocals are 'centered' in the stereo imaging and are in phase on each channel. The instruments
are panned more or less left or right. When you rewire the headphones, you effectively place the two
transducers in series, and they are now wired out of phase with each other (the two "-" terminals are connected
together on what used to be the ground lead, and the two "+" terminals are connected to their respective signal
outputs from the channels - effectively since they are now in series, they are wired out of phase). Any signal

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which is "identical" and "in phase" on both left and right channels tends to cancel - the vocals. Signal which is
not identical on each channel appears as the difference between the two sides - the instruments.
Some recordings are not made this way and this will have little or no effect - you may have to try a few CD's to
experience the 'phenomena'.
Problems with anti-skip buffers
Newer portable CD players often offer an extra cost option of an 'anti-skip' capability - usually about 10 seconds
of buffer memory. While there is probably little you can do to repair an electronic or logical problem with this
memory, there are a couple of points to keep in mind which may lead to the repair of problems like erratic anti-
skip performance, noise, dropouts, skipping, and other symptoms dealt with elsewhere in this document.
Anti-skip is actually implemented by reading ahead on the CD and storing up to 10 seconds of digital audio in
dynamic random access memory (DRAM). This has a direct impact on optical deck performance and power
requirements:
To read ahead, the player must actually operate at a higher than normal (1X) speed. Watching a player with this
feature, it would appear to be close to 2X. This puts a greater strain on motors and servo systems so anything in
the optics or servo alignment that is marginal - or even a dirty lens - may result in problems which do not show
up with the anti-skip feature turned off. In addition, there are likely to be more problems reading marginal CDs
or CD-Rs. See the section: CD player with skip buffer fails with some CD-Rs.
Power requirements are also greater with anti-skip on - the spindle motor and servos need to work harder and
the buffer DRAM may require greater power when being accessed. Therefore, weak batteries or an inadequate
wall adapter may result in erratic operation. If possible, try fresh batteries or a different adapter before warming
up the oscilloscope.
CD player with skip buffer fails with some CD-Rs

This was an odd problem posted to the newsgroup sci.electronics.repair:
"I am having an odd problem with my new portable cd player. It is a Panasonic with 10-second skip protection.
I made an audio compilation CD with my CD-burner. This CD works fine with my CDROM drive and home

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CD player. In fact it works fine with the Panasonic UNTIL I turn on the skip protection. Then it plays for
awhile, and for no apparent reason the seconds run out and it hangs up and displays the message 'Sorry'."
Your player is having trouble tracking the CD-R. Likely causes:

The CD-R burner or software is producing discs whose layout is slightly off spec. A firmware or software
upgrade may help if available.
The CD-R burner works better with some types of blanks than others; and you've just discovered the ones it
DOESN'T work well with. Try a different brand and color.
You are using poor quality CD-R blanks which have an unacceptably high bit error rate, eccentricity of the
spiral groove, or both.
You are burning the disc as a speed which does not give the lowest error count with the media you are using -
try faster or slower. Usually 2X write speed gives the best pit structure on the widest variety of media.
Your CD-R burner is in need of calibration or laser replacement, resulting in poor pit shape. Have you tried an
OPC test to see if it is delivering the right power?
I have a Panasonic portable and have experienced the same thing with two Maxell CD-R's received in a trade.
Of the dozens of CD-R's I own, these two, burned by the same person, are the only ones that cause trouble. For
that reason I believe it is not the player but the discs that are "off".
(From: Andy Cuffe (baltimora@psu.edu).)
In skip protection mode the disc is played a double speed so it can keep the memory full. It must be having
trouble tracking these discs at the higher speed, but is able to play them at normal speed. It's either a problem
with the CD-Rs or just the way the player is.
Problems with CDROM drives
The newest CDROM drives operate at 12X speed or greater. Such performance puts significant strain on the
motors and servo systems. Even 2X speed means substantially higher demands of the electronics and power

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systems. Thus, you may find that a drive will play audio CDs flawlessly but have trouble reading data files.
While there is probably little you can do to repair an electronic or logical problem without schematics - which
are almost certainly not going to be available, there are some things to keep in mind which may lead to the
repair of problems like erratic or total failure of data readback.
The first test for any CDROM problem is to force the drive to the 1X (or some slower speed than its maximum
specifications) and see if that helps. Your drive may have come with instructions/software to operate at a
selected speed.
Data readout must be flawless. Uncorrectable errors which may not be noticed for audio playback would result
in corrupted files. Thus, anything that is marginal may significantly impact performance. If it still has trouble
with data even at the 1X speed, something may be marginal or there may be a true problem in the decoding
logic or computer interface.
Multi-X performance puts a much greater strain on motors and servo systems so anything in the optics or servo
alignment that is marginal - or even a dirty lens - may result in problems which do not show up with audio CDs
played at the 1X speed. Thus, once a dirty lens is ruled out by cleaning it, some fine tuning of the servo systems
may be needed.
At the high rotation rates used with the latest drives, even the slight imbalance caused by a label that is not
uniform across the disc can result in enough vibration to affect the servo systems and result in an increase in
data transfer error rate, mistracking, or even loss of focus and shutdown. There may be no problem with the
drive itself - just the disc. It may be possible to add a small sticky label to the disc in a strategic location to
improve balance. However, if the label is not very secure, it may fly off due to centrifugal force at high rpms
and create yet another problem inside the drive. Some quick drying paint might be better. If only there were a
tire balancing type machine for CDs!
Power requirements are substantially greater at the higher speeds - the spindle motor and servos need to work
harder and even the electronics may require greater power. Therefore, weak batteries in laptop computers or
CDROM drives operated off of laptop power or an inadequate wall adapter may result in erratic operation. If
possible, try fresh batteries or a different adapter before warming up the oscilloscope.

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Portable CD player/CDROM drive power considerations - batteries
As with all equipment operated from a batteries, there are specific requirements that must be met for reliable
and safe operation.
Batteries must be of the proper type. Some devices will work on either Alkaline or rechargeable NiCd types.
However, since NiCds put out less voltage than fresh alkalines, there may be a selector switch or the instruction
manual may state that NiCds should not be used. Batteries should be fresh - the motors, servo systems, and
electronics in a CD player or CDROM drive can be a significant load when seeking or spinning up. A weak
battery may cause it to shutdown erratically or never be able to find the selected track. Do not mix new and used
cells. This can result in poor performance and may actually result in damage to the cells where rechargeable
(NiCd) types are involved.
Some CD players use a sealed lead-acid battery pack. For long life, these must be recharged immediately after
use. Leaving a lead-acid battery pack in a discharged condition will significantly shorten its life. And these are
not cheap! A pack for a typical Sony CD player may cost more than $20.
Portable CD player/CDROM drive power considerations - AC adapters
As with all equipment operated from a wall adapter, there are specific requirements that must be met for reliable
and safe operation:
Voltage. The CD player or other device will specify the nominal input voltage. This must be adhered to - you
cannot connect a 3 V CD player to a 12 V adapter (or auto battery, for that matter). It will become toast.
However, not all wall adapters are created equal. Some are very poorly regulated meaning that even though its
label says something like '9V', the actual output may be as much as double this (or more) with no load. This
may not be acceptable. The device may overheat or be damaged or destroyed nearly instantly. Internal
protection devices may blow (if you are lucky!). It is safest to follow the manufacturer's recommendations
(though, admittedly, they may be pushing their own brand of adapter). My rule of thumb is that if the unloaded
output voltage is within about 25% of the specified requirements, it is probably safe to use. However, when
connecting for the first time, be on the lookout for any strange behavior (or strange odors!).
Current. The required current should be stated somewhere - either on the device itself or in the instruction
manual. If only power is specified (i.e., 9 V, 4.5 W), then divide power in watts by voltage to get the current
rating in A. (1 A = 1000 mA). The adapter must be capable of putting out at least this amount of current though

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a modestly higher current rating should be no problem. Using an adapter with an inadequate current rating may
result in erratic behavior or overheating and failure of the adapter.
Polarity. All the portable CD players and CDROM drives I know of operate on DC. Thus polarity is critical. Get
it backwards and at best nothing will happen but nothing will work either. However, the equipment and/or
adapter may be damaged - permanently. Internal protection devices may blow - if you are lucky.
Regulation. It is often impossible to determine whether the device expects regulated power or whether a given
AC adapter provides it without tests. There are both types. Higher voltage AC adapters (say, 6 V or above) often
tend to be just rectifier/filter capacitor types. However, low voltage adapters (e.g., 3 V) may have an IC
regulator built in.
As noted in the section: CD player is totally dead, it is easy to destroy a portable device using an improper
power adapter or a universal adapter that is configured incorrectly.
Boomboxes and compact stereo systems
These combine a stereo receiver and a single or dual cassette deck, and/or a CD player or changer, and a pair of
detachable speakers, into a single unit. Most are fairly portable but larger boomboxes and compact stereos may
require a forklift to move any great distance.
While the individual subsystems - CD player for example - are usually relatively self contained electrically
except for a common power supply, mechanically, everything tends to be jumbled together - even on units that
have an outward appearance of separate components. Both cassette transports are usually driven from a single
motor. Getting at the CD player may require removal of both cassette decks, audio amplifier, and power supply.
Working on these is not fun. As usual, take careful notes as you disassemble the unit and expect it to require
some time just to get to what you are after. Be especially careful when removing and replacing the individual
modules if printed flex cables are used for interconnections.
Refer to the relevant sections on cassette transports, loudspeakers, and power supplies for problems with these
units.
Since these do get abused - bumped, dropped, dunked, etc., bad connections, and other damage is very common.
See the sections: "Intermittent or erratic operation" as well as "Audio muting, noise, or distortion".

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CD player was dropped or got wet
I have never heard of a component CD player being dropped or rained on. However, this does happen to
portables. While a service shop may not even want to tackle such a unit, it is quite possible that damage is
minimal - even for a CD player.
With a CD player that has been dropped, unplug it from the AC line or remove the batteries immediately. This
will prevent further damage should anything be shorting internally.
For one that has gotten wet, dry it immediately (you knew that!).
See the document: Audio Equipment and Other Miscellaneous Stuff for more info on restoration of abused
audio equipment.
Repairing flexible printed cables
It seems that more and more consumer devices from pocket cameras to laptop computers are being built with
miniature multiconductor flexible printed cables. Very often one or more traces to develop hairline cracks due to
repeated flexing. In addition, damage from moving circuit boards and modules during servicing is all to
common.
Needless to say, repairing any kind of flex cable is a real pain. I have succeeded by carefully scraping the plastic
off with an Xacto knife and then soldering fine wire (#30 gauge wire wrap for example) to the traces. This
presumes that the conductors on your cable will even take solder. I then cover up the joints with a flexible sealer
for electrical and mechanical protection.
However, you need to make sure that the wire you use can be flexed or that the joint is set up in such a way that
the wire does not flex much - else you will just end up with broken wires pretty quickly.
Here is another alternative if the flexing of the cable prevents the use of ordinary wire for jumpers: Find a piece
of somewhat similar flex cable cable from a dead piece of equipment. Use it to jumper across the high stress
area and then solder it to the other cable with short wires if necessary. Then coat the connections as above.
Soldering from end point to end point if possible may be preferable. Even going to only one endpoint would
reduce the risk of immediate damage and reliability problems in the future.
With multiple traces broken or damaged, you are probably better off replacing the cable entirely. With the
typical flex cables found in CD players, there is often no way to repair a large number of broken traces and
retain your sanity.

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CD player whine
CD players are generally nearly silent during play (though they may make a variety of whirring and clicking
noises when loading discs, initializing, or seeking). The only sound normally eminating from inside the machine
during play might be a very faint gritty noise from the focus and tracking actuators.
Thus, a sustained whine would generally be considered abnormal.
There are two likely causes:
Worn spindle motor bearings can result in a high pitched whine. In this case, adding a drop of oil may quiet it
down temporarily but replacement will eventually be needed.
The whining noise may be the laser/chassis assembly resonating with the CD as it spins. Depending on the
model, there is a cure - adding a weight or damping material to the pickup or the chassis to change the resonant
frequency.
To confirm that this is your problem, gently rest your finger on the rotating clamper disk and/or other parts of
the optical deck while it is whining - the whine should change or disappear. If you can locate a particularly
sensitive spot, try gluing a piece of heavy rubber to this location (even if it is the clamper disk) with rubber
cement. If this solves the whine problem, confirm that discs seek and play correctly for all tracks before
buttoning it up.
For more details on Sony problems, see the section: Audio whine (not from speakers) and/or muddy sound with
Sony CD players.
(From: Joel B. Levin (levinjb@gte.net).)
If this were the problem it would be highly dependent on the CD's speed of rotation, which varies as the disc is
played. If it always happened N minutes into the disc and went away a few minutes later as the disc slowed
down (and came back if you repeated the track) I would consider that definitive of a resonance problem.
I would try lubricating the shaft of the spindle motor, and check to see if the motor brushes might be partially
shorted. (not to worry you at this early stage, but sometimes Sony pickups, especially the KSS240 and KSS212
and 213, have resonance problems, often just as the disc is coming to speed.) This is the subject of at least a

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couple service bulletins. Can often be heard as a whistling tone coming from the mechanism usually
intermittent, and can be observed in the focus error and tracking error lines as a sine wave overriding what
should be essentially a random noise signal. Occasionally the resonance gets so pronounced the disc won't even
spin up.
It happens with some Pioneers as well. It's not a common symptom, but it is the pickup at fault. Look at the
focus error line and you'll see a sine wave riding on it. There is essentially a feedback loop existing between the
spindle motor/subchassis and the pickup. I've seen various attempts to damp it out but replacing the pickup fixes
it every time in my experience.
It's possible that a loose lens can result in a resonant condition so check that the lens is secure. If it falls out in
your hand, gluing it back in place should solve the whining and prevent a future problem.
Noisy CD player
CD players are not silent despite all the hype to the contrary. The focus and tracking actuators act like voice
coils in loudspeakers produce various chirps and hisses while playing a CD. When seeking, the sled motor adds
its own additional instrumental accompanyment. :)
As they say, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Assuming it plays CDs fine and has always been this way (or you
don't recall how it was when you first got it), leave well enough alone.
If you do decide to twiddle pots, mark their original position carefully before doing anything! The ones most
likely to have any effect are the gain controls for focus and tracking. Lowering the gain slightly (perhaps 1/8th
of a turn counterclockwise) will reduce the noise level - but may also result in more susceptibility to skipping
from vibration. Turn them too far and the disc will no longer even be recognized. These adjustments don't
generally change on their own so think several times before possibly making matters worse.
Perhaps, putting the CD player in a box padded with sound deadening insulation would be a simpler solution if
the noise bothers you!
Also see the section: CD player whine.
Objective lens popped out

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Don't expect to see this one too often. However, on some Pioneer changers where the pickup is mounted upside-
down, tired pickup suspension grommets, excessive heat, age, long use with warped discs, or just bad luck, has
apparently resulted in the adhesive holding the objective lens in place to come unglued, as they say. :-) In some
cases, it is still attached but loose, which will also prevent the player from working but may be easier to fix than
one that is rolling around at the bottom of the cabinet.
The best solution is to replace the entire pickup. However, you have nothing to lose by attempting to reattach
the lens IF you can locate it AND its optical surfaces are undamaged from the ordeal. If either of these is not the
case, you will probably have to install an entire new pickup. Swapping of a lens from another player is even less
likely to work unless it uses a similar pickup from the same manufacturer and then only with great pain. But in
many instances, Murphy has taken the day off because (1) the optical surfaces are recessed and relatively well
protected from bumping into stuff and (2) there are no holes in the cases of these players for the lens to sneak
through and get lost (that is, until you remove the cover not realizing the lens is trying to escape!).
It may be essential to line up the lens in EXACTLY the same position as it was originally in terms of centering
as well as the same orientation to have any chance of success. (However, I've never actually seen this):
The lens must be centered for the return beam to be properly aligned with the photodetector array.
It is possible that some lenses are astigmatic (not circularly symmetric) to implement the focus servo (rather
than using a separate cylindrical lens or thick beam splitter mirror for this purpose). For these, the orientation is
also critical. When this is the case, there will be a reference on the lens for this purpose. On Sony pickups, for
example, there is a flat filed on one edge of the lens. (You always wondered why the lenses in all your Sony CD
players appeared to be 'damaged', didn't you?) However, I do not know of any Sony or other models that
actually use an astigmatic objective lens. (Sonys usually have a thick beam splitter mirror for this purpose.
Pioneer players for which the dropped lens syndrome is quite common don't have an astigmatic lens because
people have reported replacing the lens in any position without problems.)
However, matching up the lens position with the old glue line will likely result in it being better aligned with the
internal optics so it's still worth doing if possible.
Alignment isn't so bad if you can see the failure line in the old glue or if the lens isn't completely detached.
Otherwise, you will need to compare the orientation with an intact sample of a pickup from the same
manufacturer that uses a similar optical configuration. Just guessing may not work!

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Carefully position the lens and put the tiniest drop of adhesive such as 5 minute Epoxy at three points roughly
equally spaced around the edge of the lens. DO NOT use anything with a volatile solvent like windshield sealer,
Duco Cement, or especially instant glues like (Gasp!) Krazy Glue (cyanacrylic, even if you have mastered that
disaster!) The vapors may condense on the lens or other (more inaccessible optical surfaces). Take care to
prevent any glue runing down into the suspension or elsewhere. Once the glue has set, reinstall the pickup and
try it. If behavior seems reasonably normal, put a tiny bead of adhesive all around the lens to anchor it securely.
Some servo adjustments and/or optical alignment may still be needed to correct for the slight shift in lens
position that is unavoidable from this surgery.
I experienced the problems of instant glue when a colleague brought in a Pioneer changer in which he had
attempted to reattach the lens. Looking into the lens, it appeared as though there was an aperture behind it. After
prying the lens back off, it became apparent that the effect was caused by a haze which had formed a sort of ring
around the underside of the lens. Fortunately, multiple cleanings with isopropyl alcohol removed most of it and
allowed the player to recognize and play discs, though I don't think it will ever have quite the same
performance.
Before powering up, check the pickup suspension grommets for wear or deterioration, your discs for serious
warp, and any other mechanical problems that could cause the same thing to happen again. Don't use seriously
warped discs. Replace bad grommets or at least raise the pickup by installing washers under it for testing.
For the most common Pioneer pickups, the highly curved surface of the lens goes into a recess and is a snug fit
so all the glue needs to do is hold it there. There is a flat molded on one side of the lens and this is positioned on
the right side with the pickup held so the motor is at the bottom (though it may not matter at all). Place 3 tiny
dabs of 5 minute Epoxy just inside the lip of the recess 120 degrees apart. After cleaning the curved underside
of the lens with a couple drops of pure isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab and allowing it to dry, place it in
position with a pair of plastic tweezers. Then, gently press it down to seat it. Carefully rotate the lens to align
the flat if necessary. Once the Epoxy cures (give it 10 minutes to be sure!), clean the outer surface of the lens
and reinstall the pickup.
A local radio station uses about 20 Pioneer PD-M510s. I've been replacing a lot of lenses that are starting to fall
out. I usually do a "shake" test, recover the lens and glue it back in place. Not bad considering most haven't
been shut off and have played for 4 years now.

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The lens falls out because of 2 factors: (1) The laser is mounted upside down or (2) the rubber grommets that
support the pickup wear out after time as does the spring in the optical pickup allowing the lens to be hit by the
disc slide tray in the changer as the player loads each disc. (In marginal cases, the lens may actually scrape and
scratch the disc during loading or play but will still be attached.)
Sometimes regluing the lens is enough to allow the unit to play, but not a good repair unless the rubber
grommets are replaced and the sagging height of the lens measured to ensure enough clearance. Then the laser
output and RF level must be checked. I have only found one laser that had the lens fall out that was not way
below specification and needed replacement to make for a reliably playing unit.
That being said, most people are happy to pay just the minimum to have the lens glued on and the 3 ring paper
hole reinforcement pads put in as spacers to allow the unit to play as the cost of the optics and rubber grommets
alone are close to replacement cost of the unit.
Testing the optical pickup
See the special section "Testing of Optical Pickup Assemblies" for detailed procedures for determining basic
functionality of most of the optical, electronic, and mechanical components in the pickup assembly. These
techniques do not require sophisticated test equipment and will identify most common failures. However, you
should not consider such involved tests until you have eliminated other possibilities for your particular
problems.
Replacing the optical pickup
If after these tests (or for other reasons) you are fairly confident that the optical pickup is defective and not
salvageable, replacements are usually available from both the original manufacturer and service parts suppliers
like MCM Electronics and others.
Costs range from less than $40 to well over the price of several new CD players so you need to decide (1) how
confident you are in your diagnosis (pickups are probably not returnable) and (2) how much you are willing to
invest in a repair.
The actual replacement procedure is usually straightforward but care must be taken to avoid damage to the
usually fragile flex cables. Also, take ESD precautions since the laser diode, in particular, is quite sensitive to
static. There will usually be a solder jumper between a pair of traces shorting across the laser diode to prevent
such damage - remove this only after the pickup is fully installed and its connectors are plugged in. (However, if
you don't recall such a jumper and you are experiencing a 'dead laser' symptom, check for it!

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Note: Some pickups like those from Pioneer apparently come from the factory unaligned. I have no idea how
the test them! :) In any case, this means that substantial work is needed to get them to work, probably requiring
a service manual, oscilloscope, and a test disc (though I don't believe the latter is absolutely necessary).

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SELF CHECK 2.1-1
ENUMERATE AND DEFINE:
1. What are the types of radio receivers?

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ANSWER KEY TO SELF CHECK 2.1-1
ANSWER:

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1. Superhetrodyne Receiver
I have chosen to begin radio receiver design with the cheap am radio because:
(a) nearly everyone either has one or can buy one quite cheaply. Don't buy an A.M. / F.M. type
because it will only confuse you in trying to identify parts. Similarly don't get one of the newer
I.C. types.
2. The Reflex Receiver.
This electronics tutorials site is totally free for you to use and is financed wholly by click
revenue derived from our sponsors who mainly advertise at the top of the pages and some other
below. By visiting their different sites you demonstrate your very practical support for this
valuable free site and for our sponsors as well

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PREPARE UNIT, TOOLS AND WORKPLACE FOR

INSTALLATION / SERVICING
Different kinds of electrical

power

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Electric power is the rate, per unit time, at which electrical energy is transferred by an electric circuit. The SI unit of power is
the watt, one joule per second.
Electric power is usually produced by electric generators, but can also be supplied by sources such as electric batteries. It is
usually supplied to businesses and homes by the electric power industry through an electric power grid. Electric power is
usually sold by the kilowatt hour (3.6 MJ) which is the product of power in kilowatts multiplied by running time in hours.
Electric utilities measure power using an electricity meter, which keeps a running total of the electric energy delivered to a
customer.
Electrical power provides a low entropy form of energy and can be converted into motion or other forms of energy with high
efficiency.
Electric power, like mechanical power, is the rate of doing work, measured in watts, and represented by the letter P. The term
wattage is used colloquially to mean "electric power in watts." The electric power in watts produced by an electric current I
consisting of a charge of Q coulombs every t seconds passing through an electric potential (voltage) difference of V is
{\displaystyle P={\text{work done per unit time}}={\frac {VQ}{t}}=VI\,}
where
Q is electric charge in coulombs
t is time in seconds
I is electric current in amperes
V is electric potential or voltage in volts
Electric power is transformed to other forms of energy when electric charges move through an electric potential (voltage)
difference, which occurs in electrical components in electric circuits. From the standpoint of electric power, components in an
electric circuit can be divided into two categories:

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Passive devices or loads: When electric charges move through a potential difference from a higher to a lower voltage, that is
when conventional current (positive charge) moves from the positive (+) terminal to the negative (−) terminal, work is done by
the charges on the device. The potential energy of the charges due to the voltage between the terminals is converted to kinetic
energy in the device. These devices are called passivecomponents or loads; they 'consume' electric power from the circuit,
converting it to other forms of energy such as mechanical work, heat, light, etc. Examples are electrical appliances, such as light
bulbs, electric motors, and electric heaters. In alternating current (AC) circuits the direction of the voltage periodically reverses,
but the current always flows from the higher potential to the lower potential side. Electricity is a form of power.
Active devices or power sources: If the charges are moved by an 'exterior force' through the device in the direction from the
lower electric potential to the higher, (so positive charge moves from the negative to the positive terminal), work will be done
on the charges, and energy is being converted to electric potential energy from some other type of energy, such as mechanical
energy or chemical energy. Devices in which this occurs are called active devices or power sources; such as electric generators
and batteries.
Some devices can be either a source or a load, depending on the voltage and current through them. For example, a rechargeable
battery acts as a source when it provides power to a circuit, but as a load when it is connected to a battery charger and is being
recharged.
Passive sign convention
Main article: Passive sign convention
Since electric power can flow either into or out of a component, a convention is needed for which direction represents positive
power flow. Electric power flowing out of a circuit into a component is arbitrarily defined to have a positive sign, while power
flowing into a circuit from a component is defined to have a negative sign. Thus passive components have positive power
consumption, while power sources have negative power consumption. This is called the passive sign convention.

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Resistive circuits[edit]
In the case of resistive (Ohmic, or linear) loads, Joule's law can be combined with Ohm's law (V = I·R) to produce alternative
expressions for the amount of power that is dissipated:
{\displaystyle P=IV=I^{2}R={\frac {V^{2}}{R}},}
where R is the electrical resistance.
Alternating current
Main article: AC power

In alternating current circuits, energy storage elements such as inductance and capacitance may result in periodic reversals of
the direction of energy flow. The portion of power flow that, averaged over a complete cycle of the AC waveform, results in net
transfer of energy in one direction is known as real power (also referred to as active power). That portion of power flow due to
stored energy, that returns to the source in each cycle, is known as reactive power. The real power P in watts consumed by a
device is given by
{\displaystyle P={1 \over 2}V_{p}I_{p}\cos \theta =V_{rms}I_{rms}\cos \theta \,}
where
Vp is the peak voltage in volts
Ip is the peak current in amperes
Vrms is the root-mean-square voltage in volts
Irms is the root-mean-square current in amperes
θ is the phase angle between the current and voltage sine waves

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Power triangle: The components of AC power
The relationship between real power, reactive power and apparent power can be expressed by representing the quantities as
vectors. Real power is represented as a horizontal vector and reactive power is represented as a vertical vector. The apparent
power vector is the hypotenuse of a right triangle formed by connecting the real and reactive power vectors. This representation
is often called the power triangle. Using the Pythagorean Theorem, the relationship among real, reactive and apparent power is:
{\displaystyle {\mbox{(apparent power)}}^{2}={\mbox{(real power)}}^{2}+{\mbox{(reactive power)}}^{2}}
Real and reactive powers can also be calculated directly from the apparent power, when the current and voltage are both
sinusoids with a known phase angle θ between them:
{\displaystyle {\mbox{(real power)}}={\mbox{(apparent power)}}\cos \theta }
{\displaystyle {\mbox{(reactive power)}}={\mbox{(apparent power)}}\sin \theta }
The ratio of real power to apparent power is called power factor and is a number always between 0 and 1. Where the
currents and voltages have non-sinusoidal forms, power factor is generalized to include the effects of distortion

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LEARNING OUTCOME 2: INSTALL CONSUMER ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS AND
SYSTEMS
CONTENTS:
Assembly Proper care and use of tools

Component
-Domestic Electronic Appliances include --

-Electronic-controlled Washing Machines
-Home Food Processing equipment
-Microwave Oven
-Electronic Clock
-Rechargeable Light
-Electronic-controlled Light
-Home security equipment
I-nduction stove
-Solar-powered management system
1. Materials necessary to complete the work are obtained in accordance with job requirements.
2. Consumer electronic products and systems are installed in accordance with manufacturer’s
instructions, requirements, and without damage to the surrounding place or environment
3. Devices are tested in accordance with standard procedures.
4. Final inspections are undertaken to ensure that the installed devices conforms to technical
requirements.
5. Unplanned events or conditions are responded to in accordance with established procedures
6. Work site is cleaned and cleared of all debris and left safe in accordance with the company
requirements
7. Report on installation and testing of equipment is prepared according to company’s
procedures/policies.

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CONDITION:
The students/trainees must be provided with the following:
May include:
ASSEMBLY AND SERVICING ESD-free work bench with mirror
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Soldering iron Flashlight/headlamp
Table top reflow oven Soldering wire
Desoldering tools SMD soldering paste
Screwdriver (assorted) Stranded/solid/hook-up wires
Function/Signal generator
Mufti-testers (analog/digital)
Utility knife/stripper
Pliers (assorted)
INSTALL CONSUMER ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS AND

SYSTEMS
Assembly Proper care and
use of tools
Component Document No.
Date Developed:
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DOMESTIC APPLIANCE:
Major appliance
A major appliance, or domestic appliance, is a large machine in Home appliance used for routine housekeeping
tasks such as cooking, washing laundry, or food preservation. An appliance is different from a plumbing fixture
because it uses electricity or fuel.
Major appliances differ from small appliances because they are bigger and not portable. They are often
considered fixtures and part of real estate and as such they are often supplied to tenants as part of otherwise
unfurnished rental properties. Major appliances may have special electrical connections, connections to gas
supplies, or special plumbing and ventilation arrangements that may be permanently connected to the appliance.
This limits where they can be placed in a home.
Many major appliances are made of enamel-coated sheet steel which, in the middle 20th century, was usually
white. The term white goods in contrast to brown goods, is also used, primarily where British English is spoken,
although definitions for the term "white goods" can differ. In the United States, the term white goods can also
refer to linens.[1] In New Zealand "whiteware" may be used, elsewhere a term from pottery.[2] Since major
appliances in a home consume a significant amount of energy, they have become the objectives of programs to
improve their energy efficiency in many countries. Energy efficiency improvements may require changes in
construction of the appliances, or improved control systems.
Types:
A. GAS STOVE

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B. FREEZER
C. WASHING MACHINE
D. DISWASHER

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E. AIRCONDITIONER

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F. SMALL APPLIANCES

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LEARNING OUTCOME 3 DIAGNOSE FAULTS AND DEFECTS OF CONSUMER
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS AND SYSTEMS
CONTENTS:
 Corrective and preventive maintenance

 Diagnostics and testing are documented
-Job Report Sheets
-Job Order
-Bill of materials
-Customer index
-Service flowchart
-Stock and inventory record
-Requisition slips (for acquisition of parts)
-Supplier Index
1. Systematic pre-testing procedure is observed in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions.

2. System defects/Fault symptoms are identified using appropriate tools and equipment and
troubleshooting techniques and in accordance with safety procedures
3. Test instruments required for the job are used in accordance with user manuals.
4. Circuits are checked and isolated using specified testing procedures
5. Identified defects and faults are explained to the responsible person in accordance with
enterprise or company policy and procedures
6. Control settings/adjustments are checked in conformity with service-manual specifications.
7. Results of diagnosis and testing are documented accurately and completely within the
specified time.
8. Customers are advised/informed regarding the status and serviceability of the unit according
to procedures.
CONDITION: Date Developed: Document No.

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ELECTRONIC be provided with the following:
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Variable power supply Oscilloscope, digital
Variable transformer High-grade magnifying glass with Document
lamp No.
Date Developed:
Soldering iron PRODUCTS
ELECTRONIC Flashlight/headlamp
September 20, 2016
Hot airASSEMBLY
solderingAND
station
SERVICING Cleaning brush
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Developed By: wire Page 59 of
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Wrenches (assorted) Assorted
Date Developed:electronic components Document No.
Allen ELECTRONIC
wrench/key PRODUCTS Assorted
September 20, electronic
2016 sensors
Function/Signal
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Utility knife/stripper
Pliers (assorted)
Document No.
ASSESSMENT METHOD: Date Developed:
Oral Questioning or Interview
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Third-party workplace reports of on-the-job performance by the candidate
DIAGNOSE FAULTS AND DEFECTS OF CONSUMER

ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS AND SYSTEMS
Corrective and Preventive

Maintenance
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APPLIANCES
MAINTENANCE:
A good care and correct use of these appliance provide them a longer running life. Here are few care &
maintenance tips for some important home appliances that we use everyday to ensure an extended life for them:

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1.Refrigerator: Never overload your refrigerator with food items. Overloading makes the compressor to work
more to keep food and beverages cold and fresh. Also understand which food to store where in the refrigerator.
To read more on taking care of refrigerator refer to “Fridge not cooling fast? We found 5 silly mistakes people
make in India ” .
2. Washing Machine:
Most useful tip for taking care of washing machine is to wash smaller loads. Large loads can lead to early death
of your washing machine. Also do not wash your huge carpets and rubber mats in the washing machine.
Wipe and clean the inside drum of the washer with damp cloth at least once a week. It would remove any kind
of soapy residue, dirt , left threads from clothes etc.
Once you are finished washing and drying clothes, keep the door open to let the moisture and dampness
evaporate. For more tips on washing machine maintenance read “8 tips to take care of your washing machine“
3. Microwave:
Never put any metal utensil or container and not even an object with metal trim inside the microwave. Always
remember to remove the aluminium foil from the food item before putting them inside the microwave to avoid
any fire hazard.
Never heat any flammable food and beverage inside the microwave to avoid fire or explosion.
Do not heat any sealed food container or packed food or beverage item. Always remove the seal first and then
heat items to avoid explosion.
When the microwave is in use , do not cover the top.
Clean the food spills and stains inside the microwave after every use to avoid any rotten smell.
To read on microwave safety measures refer to “10 microwave safety measures that you must follow”
Just a few minutes of daily simple maintenance of these household appliance will not only give them a longer
operating life but also reduce the amount of money we spent on their service and repair.
But there will be times when these man made helping hand will go out of service and require professional
help.So for any kind of home appliance service likeRefrigerator repair, Washing machine service, microwave,

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mixer /grinder service or repair in Delhi, Noida, Gurgaon, Faridabad, Ghaziabad and Greater Noida contact Mr.
Right.
Electrical appliances maintenance:
There are currently almost 100,000 different types of electrical appliance on the market in Finland. Most of
these are appliances that are connected to the power supply using a plug.
Electrical appliances come with a user and maintenance manual. Make sure you follow these instructions and
also keep the manuals for later reference. The user manual teaches you how to use the appliance correctly and
how to get more benefit out of it. Maintenance in accordance with the instructions provided makes the appliance
last longer, reduces the risk of fire and prevents the deterioration of the appliance's properties. If you detect a
fault or malfunction in an appliance, have it fixed right away. If you cannot find servicing instructions in the
manual, take the appliance to a qualified professional. Electrical appliances may be repaired by electrical
installation and maintenance outlets registered by Tukes.
Make sure you follow any restrictions set in the user manual for the place of use and ambient temperature. For
example, the minimum temperature for the premises where a freezer should be placed is usually +10° C. This
means the manufacturer cannot guarantee the safety or functioning of an appliance placed in non-heated
premises in the winter.
You should pay particular attention to electrical safety outdoors. All electrical appliances used outdoors must
always have protective insulation or protective earthing or operate on extra-low voltage. The casing of
appliances intended for long-term outdoor use must be totally watertight.
Electrical appliances should not be stored in humid conditions. Electrical appliances stored in non-heated
premises may be damaged by below-zero temperatures in the winter.
You can take household waste electrical and electronic equipment (WEEE) to a designated collection point free
of charge. Electrical and electronic equipment has the WEEE crossed-out wheeled bin symbol , which tells you
that the item must not be put in the bin with unsorted waste.

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Also remember these:
Unplug cords from electrical outlets by pulling on the plug instead of the pulling on the cord.
Monitor the condition of connection and extension cords.
Never repair electrical cords using ordinary tape, insulation tape or sticking plaster.
Use extension cord weight appropriate for the job. Avoid using many high-voltage appliances at the same time
on one extension cord.
Do not alter the structure of an extension cord, appliance cord or plug.
Do not place a cord near a hot surface such as a radiator.
Avoid chaining several extension cords in a row.
You must not use an extension cord to bring electricity to a room with a different type of wall sockets than the
room in which the extension cord is plugged in.
If an appliance, its plug or a wall socket has gone black, take the appliance to a professional for servicing.
When having a bath, shower or swim, make sure electrical appliances are unplugged and do not touch them.
Do not hang washing to dry on top of a sauna stove or electric heater.
Read more about issues such as markings on electrical appliances, light fittings, etc. in the Home electrical
safety guide (in Finnish).
Hazardous electrical appliances
The majority of electrical appliances on the market meet the electrical safety requirements. Hundreds of
products with safety defects are, however, found on the market every year, and a few dozen product types that
can be lethally hazardous are found every year.
Electrical appliances and equipment sold in Finland are supervised by Tukes. Whenever necessary, tests are
commissioned from competent testing laboratories. Safety defects detected in testing can include:
imminent risk of electric shock or fire caused by an electrical appliance;
insufficient protection of the product against direct contact; and

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radiation emission that interferes with telecommunication.
If you suspect or know that your electrical appliance does not meet the safety requirements, contact us using
this form.

DIAGNOSE
ELECTRONIC PRODUCTSFAULTS AND 20,
September DEFECTS
2016 OF CONSUMER
ASSEMBLY ANDELECTRONIC
SERVICING PRODUCTS AND SYSTEMS
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Diagnostics and testing are
documented
WORK ORDER:

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A work order is an order received by an organization from a customer or client, or an order created internally
within the organization. A work order may be for products or services.
A "Work Order" sometimes is used in place of an "Invoice" or "Statement" and presented for payment requests.
In a manufacturing environment, a work order is converted from a sales order to show that work is about to
begin on the manufacture, building or engineering of the products requested by the customer. In a service
environment, a work order can be equivalent to a service order where the WO records the location, date and
time the service is carried out and the nature of work that is done. The type of personnel (e.g. job position) may
also be listed on the WO. A rate (e.g. $/hr, $/week) and also the total amount of hours worked and total value is
also shown on the work order.
A work order may be a maintenance or repair request from students, faculty or staff in a university.
Orders received from outside an organization are often dispatched (reviewed and scheduled) before being
executed.
Work orders may be for preventive maintenance
Contractors may use a single job work order and invoice form that contains the customer information, describes
the work performed, lists charges for material and labor, and can be given to the customer as an invoice.[6]
A job order is an internal document extensively used by projects-based, manufacturing, building and fabrication
businesses. A job order may be for products and/or services. In a manufacturing environment, a job order is
used to signal the start of a manufacturing process and will most probably be linked to a bill of material. Hence,
the job order will probably state:
 the quantity of the product to be manufactured, built or fabricated

 the amount of raw material to be used, its price and amount
 the types of labour required, rate (per hour or per unit) and amount
 the machine utilisation for each machine during the routing process, its rate and amount

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 In a service environment, a job order cannot be the equivalent to a work or service order where the job
order records the location, date and time the service is carried out and the nature of service that was carried
out, the work order does not. The type of personnel (e.g. job position) may also be listed on the job order. A
rate (e.g. hr, / week) and also the total amount of hours worked and total value is also shown.
Sales order:
he Sales order, sometimes abbreviated as SO, is an order issued by a business to a customer. A sales order may
be for products and/or services. Given the wide variety of businesses, this means that the orders can be fulfilled
in several ways. Broadly, the fulfillment modes, based on the relationship between the order receipt and
production, are as follows:
 Digital copy - Where products are digital and inventory is maintained with a single digital master. Copies
are made on demand in real time and instantly delivered to customers.
 Build to stock - Where products are built and stocked in anticipation of demand. Most products for the
consumer would fall into this category
 Build to order - Where products are built based on orders received. This is most prevalent for custom parts
where the designs are known beforehand.
 Configure-to-order - Where products are configured or assembled to meet unique customer requirements
e.g. Computers
 Engineer to order - Where some amount of product design work is done after receiving the order
 sales order is an internal document of the company, meaning it is generated by the company itself. A sales
order should record the customer's originating purchase order which is an external document. Rather than
using the customer's purchase order document, an internal sales order form allows the internal audit control
of completeness to be monitored as a sequential sales order number can be used by the company for its
sales order documents. The customer's PO is the originating document which triggers the creation of the
sales order. A sales order, being an internal document, can therefore contain many customer purchase orders
under it. In a manufacturing environment, a sales order can be converted into a work order to show that
work is about to begin to manufacture, build or engineer the products the customer wants.

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Purchase order:
A purchase order (PO) is a commercial document and first official offer issued by a buyer to a seller, indicating
types, quantities, and agreed prices for products or services. It is used to control the purchasing of products and
services from external suppliers.Acceptance of a purchase order by a seller forms a contract between the buyer
and seller, and no contract exists until the purchase order is accepted.
Companies use purchase orders for several reasons:
Purchase orders allow buyers to clearly and explicitly communicate their intentions to sellers
Sellers are protected in case of a buyer's refusal to pay for goods or services
Purchase orders help a purchasing agent to manage incoming orders and pending orders
Purchase orders provide economies in that they streamline the purchasing process to a standard procedure
Commercial lenders or financial institutions may provide financial assistance on the basis of purchase orders.
There are various trade finance facilities that almost every financial institution allows to business people against
purchase orders such as:
Before shipment credit facility
Post shipment credit facility
Trade finance facility
Foreign bill purchase credit facility
Bill retirement credit facility
Order Confirmation
Followup

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Purchase orders are used:
To procure materials for direct consumption or for stock
To procure services
To cover customer requirements using external resources
To procure a material that is needed in plants from an internal source ( Long distance intra-plant stock
transfers )
Once only procurement transactions
Optimized purchasing : Used to take full advantage of negotiated conditions or for optimal utilisation of
existing transport capacities.

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LEARNING OUTCOME 4 MAINTAIN/REPAIR CONSUMER ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS

CONTENTS:
 (PPE) Personal Protective Equipment

 (ESD) Electro-static discharge
1. Personal protective equipment is used in accordance with Occupational Health and Safety practices.
2. Electro-static discharge (ESD) protection procedure is followed in accordance with current industry
standards.
3. Defective parts/components are replaced with identical or recommended appropriate equivalent ratings
4. Repaired or replaced parts/components are soldered/mounted in accordance with the current industry
standards.
5. Control settings/adjustments are performed in conformity with service-manual specifications
6. Repair activity is performed within the required timeframe
7. Care and extreme precaution in handling the unit/product is observed as per procedures
8. Cleaning of unit is performed in accordance with standard procedures
9. Excess components and materials are disposed of based on WEEE directives and 3Rs waste management
program
CONDITION:
May include:
ESD-free work bench with mirror
Variable transformer Developed: magnifying glass with lampDocument No.
High-grade
Date
Soldering ELECTRONIC
iron PRODUCTS Flashlight/headlamp
September 20, 2016
ASSEMBLY
Hot air soldering AND SERVICING
station Cleaning brush
Table top reflow oven NC II Soldering wire Issued By:
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Wrenches (assorted) Assorted electronic components Document No.
Allen wrench/key Date Developed:
Assorted electronic sensors
Function/Signal
ASSEMBLY generator
AND SERVICING
Mufti-testers
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Pliers (assorted)
ASSESSMENT METHOD:
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92

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MAINTAIN/REPAIR CONSUMER ELECTRONIC

PRODUCTS Document No.
Date Developed:
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(PPE) Personal Protective
Equipment
Hazards exist in every workplace in many different forms: sharp edges, falling objects, flying sparks, chemicals,
noise and a myriad of other potentially dangerous situations. The Occupational Safety and Health
Administration (OSHA) requires that employers protect their employees from workplace hazards that can cause
injury. Controlling a hazard at its source is the best way to protect employees. Depending on the hazard or

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workplace conditions, OSHA recommends the use of engineering or work practice controls to manage or
eliminate hazards to the greatest extent possible. For example, building a barrier between the hazard and the
employees is an engineering control; changing the way in which employees perform their work is a work
practice control. When engineering, work practice and administrative controls are not feasible or do not provide
sufficient protection, employers must provide personal protective equipment (PPE) to their employees and
ensure its use. Personal protective equipment, commonly referred to as “PPE”, is equipment worn to minimize
exposure to a variety of hazards. Examples of PPE include such items as gloves, foot and eye protection,
protective hearing devices (earplugs, muffs) hard hats, respirators and full body suits. This guide will help both
employers and employees do the following: n Understand the types of PPE. n Know the basics of conducting a
“hazard assessment” of the workplace. n Select appropriate PPE for a variety of circumstances. n Understand
what kind of training is needed in the proper use and care of PPE. The information in this guide is general in
nature and does not address all workplace hazards or PPE requirements. The information, methods and
procedures in this guide are based on the OSHA requirements for PPE as set forth in the Code of Federal
Regulations (CFR) at 29 CFR 1910.132 (General requirements); 29 CFR 1910.133 (Eye and face protection);
29 CFR 1910.135 (Head protection); 29 CFR 1910.136 (Foot protection); 29 CFR 1910.137 (Electrical
protective equipment); 29 CFR 1910.138 (Hand protection); and regulations that cover the construction
industry, at 29 CFR 1926.95 (Criteria
The following safety rules should be understood and strictly followed to

avoid accidents while working.
1. Avoid wearing loose clothing when working. Sleeves should be fit and shirts
tucked in as much as possible. Remove ties, watches, rings, and other jewelry
from your body.
2. Report immediately injuries or accidents of any type to your teacher.
3. Never put fasteners or any small metal articles in or near the mouth when
working.
4. Never throw tools of any type around. Make sure the sharp edge of cutting tools
are away from the edge of the table or work bench.

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5. Keep working areas clean and free from disposable materials.
6. Secure the help of your classmates when carrying heavy tools to avoid accidents.
7. Never use dull or damaged tools.
8. Do not use tools with loose handles and ragged. Report cases like these to the
teacher and do necessary repair and adjustments, if possible.
9. Know and observe safety measures specific for each tool or operation.
Safety Requirements:
For your protection, observe the following safety requirements:
 Follow all cautions, warnings, and instructions marked on the equipment.

 Ensure that the voltage and frequency rating of the power outlet matches the electrical rating labels on the
system.
 Use properly grounded power outlets.
Safety Requirements with the Use of Personal Protective
Equipment:
1. Weight - Use the lightest weight tool possible to avoid injury. Excessively heavy tools must be equipped with
mechanical support and attached hoses should be supported.
Support - Equip tools with some means of mechanical support so you don't need to hold a heavy tool
continuously while working. If mechanical support cannot be provided, the workstation should be designed so
you can put the tool down or rest it in a holster when it is not in use.

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2. Balance - Additional force is required to use an unbalanced tool. The tool's center of gravity should be close
to the body, close to the handles, and in line with the center of the hand holding the tool.
3. Torque Control - High torque requires a lot of force to keep the tool from rotating out of your hand. Torque
settings should be set to the minimum required by job specifications, especially for in-line
and pistol-shaped tools.

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4. Grip - Tool handles should allow stable and efficient grip. The handle should be cylindrical or oval in
shape, with a diameter of between 1.25 and 1.75 inches. Tool handles should contact as much of the
hand and fingers as possible. Grips should be made of non-slip compressible and non conductive
material. Avoid form-fitting handles (handles with finger grooves), since they may not fit the hand
size of every user. Handle should be kept clean and free from slippery grease, oil, or sweat.
5. Span - On two-handled manual tools, like pliers, the open span should be about 4 inches and the closed span
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should only be about 1.5 inches.
Personal protective equipment (PPE)
Employers have duties concerning the

provision and use of personal protective
equipment (PPE) at work.
PPE is equipment that will protect the
user against health or safety risks at
work. It can include items such as safety
helmets, gloves, eye protection, high-
visibility clothing, safety footwear and
safety harnesses. It also includes
respiratory protective equipment (RPE).
Case study
Why is PPE important?

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Making the workplace safe includes providing instructions, procedures, training and supervision to encourage
people to work safely and responsibly.
Even where engineering controls and safe systems of work have been applied, some hazards might remain.
These include injuries to:
the lungs, eg from breathing in contaminated air
the head and feet, eg from falling materials
the eyes, eg from flying particles or splashes of corrosive liquids the skin, eg from contact with corrosive
materials the body, eg from extremes of heat or cold
PPE is needed in these cases to reduce the risk.
What do I have to do? Only use PPE as a last resort

If PPE is still needed after implementing other controls (and there will be circumstances when it is, eg head
protection on most construction sites), you must provide this for your employees free of charge
You must choose the equipment carefully (see selection details below) and ensure employees are trained to use
it properly, and know how to detect and report any faults
Selection and use
You should ask yourself the following questions:
Who is exposed and to what?

How long are they exposed for?
How much are they exposed to?
When selecting and using PPE:

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Choose products which are CE marked in accordance with the Personal Protective Equipment Regulations 2002
– suppliers can advise you
Choose equipment that suits the user – consider the size, fit and weight of the PPE. If the users help choose it,
they will be more likely to use it
If more than one item of PPE is worn at the same time, make sure they can be used together, eg wearing safety
glasses may disturb the seal of a respirator, causing air leaks
Instruct and train people how to use it, eg train people to remove gloves without contaminating their skin. Tell
them why it is needed, when to use it and what its limitations are
Other advice on PPE
Never allow exemptions from wearing PPE for those jobs that ‘only take a few minutes'
Check with your supplier on what PPE is appropriate – explain the job to them
If in doubt, seek further advice from a specialist adviser
Maintenance
PPE must be properly looked after and stored when not in use, eg in a dry, clean cupboard. If it is reusable it
must be cleaned and kept in good condition.
Think about:
using the right replacement parts which match the original, eg respirator filters
keeping replacement PPE available
who is responsible for maintenance and how it is to be done
having a supply of appropriate disposable suits which are useful for dirty jobs where laundry costs are high, eg
for visitors who need protective clothing
Employees must make proper use of PPE and report its loss or destruction or any fault in it.
Monitor and review
Check regularly that PPE is used. If it isn’t, find out why not
Safety signs can be a useful reminder that PPE should be worn
Take note of any changes in equipment, materials and methods – you may need to update what you provide
Types of PPE you can use
Eyes
Hazards
Chemical or metal splash, dust, projectiles, gas and vapour, radiation

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Options
Safety spectacles, goggles, face screens, faceshields, visors
Note
Make sure the eye protection chosen has the right combination of impact/dust/splash/molten metal eye
protection for the task and fits the user properly
Head and neck
Hazards
Impact from falling or flying objects, risk of head bumping, hair getting tangled in machinery, chemical drips or
splash, climate or temperature
Options
Industrial safety helmets, bump caps, hairnets and firefighters' helmets
Note
Some safety helmets incorporate or can be fitted with specially-designed eye or hearing protection
Don't forget neck protection, eg scarves for use during welding
Replace head protection if it is damaged Ears
Hazards
Noise – a combination of sound level and duration of exposure, very high-level sounds are a hazard even with
short duration
Options
Earplugs, earmuffs, semi-insert/canal caps
Note

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Provide the right hearing protectors for the type of work, and make sure workers know how to fit them
Choose protectors that reduce noise to an acceptable level, while allowing for safety and communication
Hands and arms
Hazards
Abrasion, temperature extremes, cuts and punctures, impact, chemicals, electric shock, radiation, vibration,
biological agents and prolonged immersion in water
Options
Gloves, gloves with a cuff, gauntlets and sleeving that covers part or all of the arm
Note
Avoid gloves when operating machines such as bench drills where the gloves might get caught
Some materials are quickly penetrated by chemicals – take care in selection, see HSE’s skin at work website
Barrier creams are unreliable and are no substitute for proper PPE
Wearing gloves for long periods can make the skin hot and sweaty, leading to skin problems. Using separate
cotton inner gloves can help prevent this
Feet and legs
Hazards
Wet, hot and cold conditions, electrostatic build-up, slipping, cuts and punctures, falling objects, heavy loads,
metal and chemical splash, vehicles
Options
Safety boots and shoes with protective toecaps and penetration-resistant, mid-sole wellington boots and specific
footwear, eg foundry boots and chainsaw boots
Note
Footwear can have a variety of sole patterns and materials to help prevent slips in different conditions, including
oil - or chemical-resistant soles. It can also be anti-static, electrically conductive or thermally insulating
Appropriate footwear should be selected for the risks identified
Lungs

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Hazards
Oxygen-deficient atmospheres, dusts, gases and vapours
Options – respiratory protective equipment (RPE)
Some respirators rely on filtering contaminants from workplace air. These include simple filtering facepieces
and respirators and power-assisted respirators
Make sure it fits properly, eg for tight-fitting respirators (filtering facepieces, half and full masks)
There are also types of breathing apparatus which give an independent supply of breathable air, eg fresh-air
hose, compressed airline and self-contained breathing apparatus
Note
The right type of respirator filter must be used as each is effective for only a limited range of substances
Filters have only a limited life. Where there is a shortage of oxygen or any danger of losing consciousness due
to exposure to high levels of harmful fumes, only use breathing apparatus – never use a filtering cartridge
You will need to use breathing apparatus in a confined space or if there is a chance of an oxygen deficiency in
the work area.If you are using respiratory protective equipment, look at HSE’s publication Respiratory
protective equipment at work: A practical guide
Whole body
Hazards
Heat, chemical or metal splash, spray from pressure leaks or spray guns, contaminated dust, impact or
penetration, excessive wear or entanglement of own clothing
Options
Conventional or disposable overalls, boiler suits, aprons, chemical suits
Note
The choice of materials includes flame-retardant, anti-static, chain mail, chemically impermeable, and high-
visibility
Don't forget other protection, like safety harnesses or life jackets
Emergency equipment

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Careful selection, maintenance and regular and realistic operator training is needed for equipment for use in
emergencies, like compressed-air escape breathing apparatus, respirators and safety ropes or harnesses.

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LEARNING OUTCOME 5 RE-ASSEMBLE AND TEST REPAIRED CONSUMER
ELECTRONIC PRODUCT
CONTENTS:
 Reassembled units are subjected to final testing
1. Repaired units are reassembled according to procedures

2. Reassembled units are subjected to final testing and cleaning in conformity with
manufacturer’s specifications
3. Service completion procedures and documentations are complied with based on manual.
4. Waste materials are disposed of in accordance with environmental requirements.
CONDITION:
May include:
ESD-free work bench with mirror
Variable transformer High-grade magnifying glass with lamp
Soldering iron Flashlight/headlamp
Hot air soldering station Cleaning brush
Table top reflow oven Soldering wire
Desoldering tools SMD soldering paste
Function/Signal generator
ASSEMBLY
Mufti-testers AND SERVICING
(analog/digital)
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ASSESSMENT METHOD:
ELECTRONIC
Oral Questioning PRODUCTS
or Interview September 20, 2016
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Third-party workplace reports of on-the-job performance
Developed By: by the candidate 92

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INFORMATION SHEET 2.5
RE-ASSEMBLE AND TEST REPAIRED CONSUMER

ELECTRONIC PRODUCT
Reassembled units are

subjected to final testing

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Reassemble and test repaired appliance.
Testing Voltage
Touch the two test leads to

the two metal contacts of a
live power source, like a wall
outlet or the terminals of the
motor that you're testing for
voltage. (Do not jam the test
leads into a wall outlet!) If
you are getting power
through the VOM, the meter
will jump up and steady on a
reading. You may have to
convert the scale in your
head. For example, if you're
using the 250 volt dial setting
and the meter has a "25"
scale, simply divide by 10;
120 volts would be "12" on
the meter.
TESTING FOR
CONTINUITY
Don't let the word

"continuity" scare you. It's
derived from the word
"continuous." In an electrical
circuit, electricity has to
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flow froma power source back to that power source. If there is any break in the circuit, it is not continuous, and
it has no continuity. "Good" continuity means that there is no break in the circuit.
For example, if you were testing a solenoid to see if it was burned out, you would try putting a small amount of
power through the solenoid. If it was burned out, there would be a break in the circuit, the electricity wouldn't
flow, and your meter would show no continuity.
That is what the resistance part of your VOM does; it provides a small electrical current (using batteries within
the VOM) and measures how fast the current is flowing. For our purposes, it doesn't matter how fast the
current is flowing
To use your VOM to test continuity, set the dial on (resistance) R x 1, or whatever the lowest setting is. Touch
the metal parts of the test leads together and read the meter. It should peg the meter all the way on the right side
of the scale, towards "0" on the meter's "resistance" scale. If the meter does not read zero resistance, adjust the
thumbwheel on the front of the VOM until it does read zero. If you cannot get the meter to read zero, the battery
in the VOM is low; replace it.
If you are testing, say, a solenoid, first make sure that the solenoid leads are not connected to anything,
especially a power source. If the solenoid's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading
through that something. If there is still live power on the item you're testing for continuity, you will burn out
your VOM instantly and possibly shock yourself.

Touch the two test leads to the two bare wire ends or terminals of the solenoid. You can touch the ends of the
wires and test leads with your hands if necessary to get better contact. The voltage that the VOM batteries put
out is very low, and you will not be shocked. If there is NO continuity, the meter won't move. If there is GOOD
continuity, the meter will move toward the right side of the scale and steady on a reading. This is the resistance
reading and it doesn't concern us; we only care that we show good continuity. If the meter moves only very little
and stays towards the left side of the scale, that's BAD continuity; the solenoid is no good.
If you are testing a switch, you will show little or no resistance (good continuity) when the switch is closed, and
NO continuity when the switch is open. If you do not, the switch is bad.

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Testing Continuity
AMMETERS
Ammeters are a little bit more complex to explain without going into a lot of electrical theory. If you own an
ammeter, you probably already know how to use it.
If you don't, don't get one. Ammeters are expensive. And for our purposes, there are other ways to determine
what an ammeter tests for. If you don't own one, skip this section.
For our purposes, ammeters are simply a way of testing for continuity without having to cut into the system or
to disconnect power from whatever it is we're testing.
Ammeters measure the current in amps flowing through a wire.

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The greater the current that's flowing through a wire, the greater the density of the magnetic field it
produces around the wire. The ammeter simply measures the strength of this magnetic field, and thus the
amount of current, flowing through the wire. To determine continuity, for our purposes, we can simply isolate
the component that we're testing (so we do not accidentally measure the current going through any other
components) and see if there's any current flow.
To use your ammeter, first make sure that it's on an appropriate scale (0 to 10 or 20 amps will do). Isolate a wire
leading directly to the component you're testing. Put the ammeter loop around that wire and read the meter.
Testing Amperage
Washing
Machine
Repair
PROBLE
MS
COMMON
TO ALL WASHER BRANDS
Washing machine designs vary widely, but there are some things that all washers have in common. For
example, all washers have an electric motor. All washers have both spin and agitate cycles. And since both
cycles are driven by the same electric motor, all washers have some sort of mechanism to change between the

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two.
All washers must also have a way of filling the tub with wash water and a way of draining out used wash water.
And incidental to this, all washers must have a way of controlling water level in the tub, to prevent spillage by
overfill or by centrifugal force during the spin cycle.
All washers must (by law) have a mechanism that brakes the spinning basket at the end of the spin cycle, or else
a lid lock to prevent the lid from being opened during or shortly after the spin cycle.
And last but not least, all washers must have a timer that controls and coordinates the start, stop and duration of
the various cycles.
CYCLES
FILL CYCLE
During the FILL cycle, a solenoid-operated water mixing valve opens and allows hot or cold water (or both) to
enter the tub. There is no pump operating at this time; the tub fills strictly from house pressure.
Similarly, there is no heater in your washer; the heat comes from the water heater in your home.
When the water in the tub reaches a certain level, a pressure switch closes the water solenoid valve(s).
Typical Drive Train
WASH/RINSE
(AGITATION)
CYCLE
After the water valve

closes, an electric

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motor starts which drives the transmission, sometimes through a belt, and in some cases through a clutch
arrangement, too. The transmission converts the rotary motion of the motor to the back-and-forth motion of the
agitator. A driveshaft extends from the top of the transmission to the agitator, where it is connected to the
agitator, usually by a spline.
Agitation will continue for a certain amount of time, which is controlled by the timer. During agitation, some
washers use their pump to circulate water, sucking it from the bottom of the tub and pumping it to the top of the
tub. The pump is driven by the same electric motor.
Also during the agitation cycle, bleach or softener may be automatically added. This is usually done by a
solenoid valve that allows some of the re-circulated water to flush out the bleach or softener dispenser. In some
models there is no water circulation involved; the solenoid simply opens a valve or door that lets the dispenser
contents drop into the wash water. The timer tells this solenoid valve when to open.
SPIN AND DRAIN CYCLES
after agitation comes a drain cycle, sometimes combined with a spin cycle. During the drain cycle, the pump
sucks water from the tub and sends it down the drain. During the spin cycle, the same motor that drove the
agitator now drives a spin tube
which is concentric with the agitator shaft. The spin tube spins the basket, slinging excess water out of the
clothes by centrifugal force. There is a clutch arrangement which allows the basket to come up to speed slowly.
This prevents a heavy load from being thrown onto the motor suddenly. It also allows a "pre-pump" action; the
water has a chance to drain out of the tub before the basket gets up to speed, preventing the water from
overflowing the edge of the tub by centrifugal force.
Some brands have a partial drain cycle only, then refill and agitate again. Some start spinning and draining at
the same time. Some only drain until the water reaches a certain level, and then start spinning. Most brands have
lid switches that prevent the basket from spinning when the lid is open. Some brands have a lid lock that
prevents you from opening the lid when the basket is spinning.

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At the end of the spin cycle, or whenever the lid is lifted, most models have a braking arrangement that stops
the tub from spinning. This helps to prevent people from accidently sticking their hands into a spinning basket.
CAUTION: NEVER BYPASS THE LID SWITCH, EXCEPT FOR TEST PURPOSES. IF IT IS DEFECTIVE,
INSTALL A NEW ONE. THEY ARE THERE FOR A REASON. NO JOKE: I PERSONALLY HAVE A NEPHEW
WHOSE ARM WAS TORN OFF (AT 2 YEARS OLD) BECAUSE OF A BYPASSED LID SWITCH!
FILL SYSTEM
The basic components of the fill system are the hoses, the fill valve, and the pressure or float switch.
The fill valve is simply a solenoid valve that opens when activated and allows hot and/or cold water to flow into
the tub. Most modern washers use dual solenoid valves, which have both hot and cold solenoids in one valve
body. When warm water is desired, both valves open to mix hot and cold.
Typical Fill Solenoid Valve
In the newest digital washers,

water temperature may be
controlled by a "thermistor."
A thermistor is a variable
resistor; a resistor whose
resistance varies according to
what temperature it senses.
The thermistor's signal goes

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to the washer's control board (computer,) which opens or closes hot and cold water valves to control the
incoming water temperature.
When the water in the tub reaches the desired level, the pressure or float switch closes the circuit to the fill
valve. Float switches are pretty rare; you'll find them only in older washers. A diaphragm-type pressure switch
is more common. Typical float and pressure switches are shown in Figure. A few old washers used a pressure
switch mounted on the BOTTOM of the tub; these are known as water weight switches. They are rare.
Typical Water Level Switches
DIAGNOSIS
If your washer is not filling

properly, or is overflowing, there
could be several reasons.
SLOW OR NO FILL, OR
WATER TOO HOT
OR TOO COLD
If your washer is filling very

slowly or not at all, or the
water temperature is always
too hot or too cold, check the
fill hose and valve strainers.
These are little screens placed
in the fill hose and/or water
valve to prevent rust and scale
from your house's piping
system from getting into the
water valve. The strainers can
get clogged up over time and
prevent water flow.

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Shut off the water valves and remove the hoses. Look into the both ends of each hose and into the water valve
mounted on the washer. In at least one of the three places you should see a strainer screen. If it is clogged, you
can try cleaning it out with a toothbrush and/or a turkey baster. If you cannot clean the screen sufficiently, you
may need to replace it.
In some instances, the screen is non-removable, and you will need to replace the hose or valve. Neither is very
expensive.
Fill Strainer Screens
When re-installing the hoses,

always use new hose
washers. Also, take care not
to overtighten the hose on the
plastic threads of the
solenoid valve; tighten just
enough to stop it from
leaking.
If there is any question about
the watertight integrity of the
hose, replace it. A hose costs
a lot less than a new floor or
carpeting, which is what
you'll be buying if it breaks
while you're not home.
If the strainers look O.K., set your temperature control to "warm" and set your timer in the fill cycle. Raise the
lid of the washer and depress any lid switch with a pen or screwdriver. Feel the water entering the washer. If it is
too hot or too cold, or if no water is coming out at all, test for voltage across each solenoid coil of the water
valve. It should read 110 to 125 volts.
Checking Voltage across Water Solenoid Valve Coils

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If so,
you're
getting
power to
your
valve, but
it's not
opening.
Replace
the
valve.
If you're
not
getting
power to
the valve,
refer to the wiring diagram for your machine and trace the source of the interruption. Sometimes it's a broken
wire, but more commonly, there will be a problem with the water level switch, timer, lid switch, or temperature
switch. Replace the defective switch.
If your washer is a late-model digital machine with a fill thermistor, a defective thermistor might be sending the
wrong signal to the control board. Replacing the thermistor (they're not too expensive) will usually solve the
problem. The control board may also be defective.
CAUTION: On some brands, you must raise the top of the cabinet to get to the solenoid valve. If your washer has a
mercury-tube type lid switch, raising the top of the cabinet may have the same effect on the lid switch as raising the lid.
Your washer may not fill or cycle. You will need to jumper the mercury switch to perform any tests when the cabinet top
is raised.

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OVERFILL
As the tub fills, water pressure increases at the bottom of the tub. This pressure is transmitted to the diaphragm
in the water level switch by a rubber or plastic tube.
When the tub reaches the right level, the diaphragm trips the switch, closing the solenoid fill valve and starting
the agitate cycle.
Water Level Pressure Tube
If the tube or diaphragm is

leaking badly, the water level
switch will not sense any
pressure, and thus will not shut
off the water flow, so the tub will
overflow. If this tube is leaking
slowly, the washer may exhibit
odd fill symptoms. For example,
depending on how fast the air
leak is, the washer may fill and
start agitating, then stop agitating
and fill some more, then agitate
some more, and so forth, until the
washer overfills.
CAUTION: Whenever you
remove the tube from the switch,
or insert the tube onto the switch,
there cannot be any water in the tub or tube. Before you insert the tube onto the switch, blow into the tube first,
to clear it of any water that might have gotten in it. ANY WATER REMAINING IN THE TUBE WILL CAUSE
YOUR WASHER TO OVERFILL, OR PROBABLY EVEN TO OVERFLOW!

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Also test the water level switch electrically, as described in section 2-6(b).
DOES NOT STOP FILLING, AND/OR WATER LEVEL KEEPS GOING DOWN
If the house washer drain starts backing up, you get a rooter and clear the drain, right? But some people would
just seal it up so it couldn't overflow, instead of clearing the drain, as they should. (Now, WE wouldn't do that,
would we, folks?)
But that air break between the washer's drain hose and the house's drain pipe is important.
If there is no air break, and the drain system fills with water, it can actually start siphoning water right through
the pump and down the drain. Depending on how bad the drain is backing up, the washer might never fill
completely; the solenoid valve will just stay open and water will just keep siphoning straight out the drain. Or, if
the drain is a little more clogged and the water is flowing more slowly, the washer might fill and start agitating,
but stop agitating after a few minutes and fill some more. This fill-agitate-fill-agitate cycle will continue for as
long as the agitate cycle lasts. And since the power to the timer motor is being interrupted, the wash and rinse
cycles may seem unusually long.
There is a solution, even if you don't want to root out the drain blockage as you should. Your appliance parts
dealer has a drain line vacuum break valve, available for just a few bucks. (Figure G-7) You can cut into your
drain line and install one of these vacuum breaks pretty easily.
When the drain line is under pressure, (like when the pump is pumping out) the flapper valve closes and no
leakage occurs. When the drain line is under a vacuum (like when the drain is trying to siphon it) the flapper
valve opens and air is allowed into the drain line, breaking the siphoning action.

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Self - Check 2.5
TRUE OR FALSE.Read the statements carefully. Write True if the sentence is correct and False if it is
misleading.
1. Water pressure increases at the bottom of the tub?
2. The solenoid is a valve?
3. The fill cycle raise the lid of the washer?
4. Washer is a late-model digital machine with a fill thermistor?
5. The rotary motion of the motor to the back-and-forth motion of the agitator?
Enumeration
6-15 Give the PROBLEMS COMMON


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ANSWER KEY 2.5
True or False
True
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True
False
True
True
Enumeration:
6-10. PROBLEMS COMMON

Washing machine designs vary widely, but there are some things that all washers have in common. For
example,
6. All washers have an electric motor.
7. All washers have both spin and agitate cycles. And since both cycles are driven by the same electric motor,
8.All washers have some sort of mechanism to change between the two.
9. All washers must also have a way of filling

10.The tub with wash water and a way of draining out used wash water.And incidental to this, all washers must
have a way of controlling water level in the tub, to prevent spillage by overfill or by centrifugal force during the
spin cycle.

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JOB SHEET 2.5
Title: Reassemble and test repaired appliance
Performance Objective: Given standard form of maintain/ repair appliances with

reassemble and test repaired appliance.
Supplies/Materials : multi tester, wire, component.
Equipment : Washing Machine
Steps/Procedure:
1. Give information
ELECTRONIC about the Washing
PRODUCTS Machine.
September 20, 2016
2. Demonstrate how to repair a washing machine.
NC IIdiagnose a problem of a washing machine.
3. Demonstrate how Issued By: Page
4. Demonstrate how reassemble and test repaired appliance. 92
`
Assessment Method:
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Observation
Demonstration
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Performance Criteria Checklist 2.5
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
Give information about the machine/equipment.
Give information about the washing machine.
Demonstrate how to repair a washing machine.
Demonstrate how diagnose a problem of a washing machine.
Demonstrate how reassemble and test repaired appliance.

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Date Developed: Document No.

ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS September 20, 2016

Date Developed: Document No.

Date Developed: Document No.

Date Developed: Document No.

Qualification Title/ Level : ELECTRONICS PRODUCT ASSEMBLY AND

HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

Date Developed: Document No.

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Date Developed: Document No.

Recognition of Prior Learning(RPL)

ELECTRONICS PRODUCT ASSEMBLY AND SERVICING NCII

Date Developed: Document No.

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Date Developed: Document No.

No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code

2 Service consumer electronic Servicing consumer electronic ELC724336

3 Service industrial electronic Servicing industrial electronic ELC724337

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SERVICE CONSUMER ELECTRONIC

 Audio-Video products and systems

 Corrective and preventive maintenance

Date Developed: Document No.

LEARNING OUTCOMES: Date Developed: Document No.

LO2. Install industrial electronic modules/ products/ systems

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LEARNING OUTCOME SUMMARY

PREPARE UNIT, TOOLS AND WORKPLACE FOR

 Audio-Video products and systems

 Different kinds of electrical power

Assembly workplace is prepared in accordance with OH&S policies and procedures

CONDITION: Document No.

Oral Questioning or Interview Document No.

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Learning Outcome 1 : PREPARE UNIT, TOOLS AND WORKPLACE FOR INSTALLATION /

Learning Activities Special Instructions

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Audio-Video products and

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What are the types of radio receivers?

Basic crystal set.

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