@thefliphubb

CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER

01 source

CHAPTER

02 prep

CHAPTER

03 paint

CHAPTER

04 staging

CHAPTER

05 sell ($$$)

FINAL RAMBLINGS
 intro
let's start at the
beginning
Young.
College student.
Newly married...
and desperate for a way to
bring in some cash to help
pay the bills.
THAT is what drove me to turn
what I loved -refinishing
furniture- into something that
wasn’t JUST a hobby, but a
way to bring in money.

Welcome to Flipping
Furniture + How To Make a
Profit With The Flip Hubb!

I know it’s possible to flip

furniture the right way!
Efficiently and beautifully so
that you can turn around and sell it for a profit.

How do I know this?

Because I have DONE it.

before
aft
er
I averaged $1200 - $1500 per month flipping furniture
part time... and that was just the start.

I know with the help from this ebook, you can learn the
right way to flip furniture and make money doing it.

With 10+ years of experience, I’ve tried it all. I’ve painted

it all. I’ve made mistakes. I’ve lost money. I’ve made A
LOT of money. And truly, I have learned SO MUCH, loved
almost all of it, and can honestly say that every second
was worth it.

The best part?? I’m ready to teach YOU every single thing
I learned along the way, so that you can learn from me in
45 pages what it took me years to master.

So let’s jump IN.

before

after
 Recommended Materials List:
Everything you need in one spot.

Paint
Prep Supplies
Supplies
Sanding Block 80
Paint Brush Sanding Block 180
Detail Brushes Sanding Block 220
Tape Floor Paper
Large Detail Brush Hand stapler (For fixing drawer
Wood Glue bottoms)
Containers Tack Cloth
BB Frösch Powder Whisk (For mixing BB Frösch)
Rub N Buff Clamps
Polyurethane Painters Rags
Spray Shellac
Chip Brushes (used to apply Shellac)
Bondo
Wood Filler
Tools Cleaner
Grime Remover
Hammer
Orbital Sander
Orbital Sandpaper
Drill
Screwdriver Set
Heat Gun
Lets Do
Putty Knife
This
 #1 Chapter 1: Sourcing
WHAT DO I SPEND AND ON WHAT?

Things to look for when

buying any item:
How long has the item been
listed? Usually, if it has been
more than a few days, the
seller wants it gone, hasn’t
had many offers and will take
what they can get. This
dresser was listed at $25. It
had been listed online for 4
days and was still available. I
liked the shape of it and
could see the potential.

What is the price and WHY:

When something is priced
low and it should be listed
higher, like a vintage bed set

that appears to be in good shape, do your research. Look

at the item description: is it broken? are there termites? If
its questionable, ask the questions.

What do I pay?
In the beginning, CHEAP or FREE are your best options.
Start with small ticket items: night stands, side tables,
chairs. Small things that you can use to perfect your
practice on, and still make a profit. After a few solid flips
with smaller items, try a dresser or table if you have the
space. If not, you can up your game to find name brand or
“nicer” pieces to flip for a larger profit.
Spend less to make more. Even now after years of furniture
transformations, I rarely spend more than $100 on
anything, and thats when we’re talking large items like a
hutch or a dresser. When it comes to small items, I stick to
under $40 as much as possible. BUT also keep in mind that
there can be items that are priced higher because they are
genuinely worth more. Also remember that whatever you
spend, you want to make back, PLUS a profit.

How do I know if it's worth the price tag?:

Look for mentions/photos of the brand, and then do your
duty to look that brand up. If there is a claim that the item
is Lane or Bassett or whatever, ask for a photo of the brand
marking or tag, and validate that it is what the buyer
claims. Remember the trends. If there are certain items
selling like wild in your area, those items are going to cost
more. BUT they will also resale for more, too. There has to
be discretion on your part on what is worth it and what
isn’t, and only you can make the ultimate decision. Things
like solid wood, true vintage and demand are always going
to boost the price for items. But don’t just ignore these
things… you never know when someone who doesn't know
or care what they’ve got will list it for a steal!

Negotiation:
When it comes to bargaining, the worst answer you can get
is NO. By asking if the seller would take $15 in the case
above with the dresser, I saved myself $10. I knew the item
had been on for a few days, and took that as my cue to get
the guts to ask. ALSO, notice the sense of urgency I created
by stating I could pay THAT second. That is one of the best
ways to sway the seller in your direction! Reasons to
consider negotiation: Has the item been listed for more
than 2 days? Is the item broken? Are there pieces missing?
Does it look like it was used as a canvas for a preschool art
project? Does the buyer insist that you move it yourself?
Do they want cash only? Also, some times it doesn't hurt to
offer $10-$20 less.. just to see if you’ll get yourself a deal.
ALWAYS Consider the work you will have to put in,
especially when you are paying. If you get the item for free,
your risk is smaller. When you pay for something and it has
broken drawers that require new tracks, needs all new
hardware or is missing chunks… remember to consider your
time. How long it will take to repair the damage and if it's
worth the potential profit. This may take some time to
learn, but with the help listed throughout this book, you
can do it, I promise!

A Note On: What Do I Buy?

Again, always start small. Night stand, end table, console
table, desks. These items are best because they are
typically lower on the pricing scale AND because they can
shimmy into even the smallest of vehicles. Keep this
CRUCIAL element in mind when sourcing: Can you pick it
up? Do you have the space? If necessary, can you deliver
the item? Bigger items like dressers can be tricky
especially if you don't have a truck or a van/SUV. For the
sake of convenience the smaller items are nice as well
because then your buyer can almost always pick them up
themselves without having to arrange for help or pay you
(yes, charge for delivery!!) to bring it to them.
 4 TIPS ON HOW TO SOURCE:
- LOOK AROUND YOU
- GET THE ALGORITHM WORKING FOR YOU
- USE THE WORLD WIDE WEB TO YOUR
ADVANTAGE
- HIT THE STREETS

look around you

What you need to do FIRST is to look around you, look at
your online marketplace, classifieds and even ask around!
What are people looking for? What is selling fast online?
No matter how great you are at sourcing, none of that will
matter if you're not sourcing the right items.

There are quite a few different options for what to get. BUT
this will all depend upon your area and what will sell.
Generally, items like side tables, night stands and dressers
are needed and sell well. Larger items like book shelves,
armoires, and headboards/footboards can be more tricky.
However, that can all vary! Maybe people in your
surrounding area really love shelving... run with that.

If you see on your local martketplace pages that dressers

are selling quickly (they usually do), be the BEST option by
selling a dresser that isn't only priced well (don't worry, we
will talk pricing!), but is in the best shape and refinished to
look brand new!

The best way to determine what sells? Trial and error.

The takeaway? Look to see what will sell.
If you're still not sure, start with an end table. They're quick
and almost always a hot item.
Mid Century Style Dressers, although tricker to source because of
price point, have been a hot item for quite some time in my area. I
purchased this one for $50, and flipped it for a $500 profit.
before

after
get the algorithm working for you
Two words: Facebook Marketplace.

If you have a Facebook account, you have Facebook

Marketplace. Marketplace, like any other social networking
system, uses an algorithm to help YOU in the best way it
can. For example, the system uses computer imaging to
show you like-items to the items you have previously
searched. You can see here that I have searched leather
chairs and of course end-tables (one of the easiest flips,
remember?!). Because I have previously searched these
things, Marketplace will now push them to me to see.
Remember: Be SPECIFIC. If Mid Century style is what you're wanting to
flip, search, "Mid-Century Modern Dresser" instead of just "dresser." You
can narrow down Marketplace down from the radius of your area,
down to ten miles, and even list the price point you are looking for.
Also note that now that you have been specific with THAT search,
Marketplace will now push those items to your screen.

"dresser"

Notice the difference in what pulls up with the searches

when I add just two descriptive words.

"mid century
dresser "

The World Wide Web

Marketplace isn't even close to the only place online to source furniture
items. In your local area, there is always a classifieds section/option.
Similar to Craigs List (which hello - also another great source!), where
people just like you and I can buy and sell items. One of my favorite
places to source furniture is on KSL Classifieds, a website used in Utah
and a few surrounding states. Simply Google your state/area along
with classifieds and sites will pop up like you wouldn't believe!

A benefit of classifieds (among many), is that generally people are just

trying to get rid of bulk stuff and less there to make money. This makes
your job of sourcing furniture at a great price point even easier.
 hit the streets
There are few things that excited me more than yard sale season.
Maybe pre and post Holiday season when people are de-junking, but
truly, I hold a special place in my heart for a good ol' fashioned yard
sale.
THESE CAN BE GOLD MINES.

Trust me on this. I used to take my truck, $100, and fill it to the BRIM
with amazing furniture items.

Another way to benefit from classified ads is by looking to see when

there are yard sales. Generally, people will post online to share when,
where, and what will be available.

You can always find a deal; if not, you can always make a deal. Look at it
this way: for the most part, the items being sold at a yard sale that
don't sell by 4pm are generally going to be thrown away or donated.
The people hosting would rather take less of your money than have to
worry about transporting any items to the dump or worse - back into
their houses.

Now, go hit the streets not just figuratively but literally. Drive around
the neighborhoods and on main roads (not the freeway or high way,
don't be cray cray), and OPEN YOUR EYES. There is almost always free
stuff sitting out waiting to be claimed. Go out on garbage day. Drive
around and see if there is anything you can use to your advantage.
FREE stuff is where you make the most money because your initial
investment is approximately zero dollars.

I'm definitely not telling you to take the rat infested couches and
rotten sideboards, but one man's trash has GREAT potential to be your
diamond in the rough.

Chapter 1 Takeaways:
- look around you to know what is
selling and wanted - focus on that.
- Get that algorithm working for
you! Be specific in your searches
- use the world wide web to your
advantage: find classifieds, yard
sales, and FREE items in your area.
- Hit the streets: take a drive, look
around you for items you can
transform.
- Open the phone lines: send a
text or seven and get the ball
rolling to spread the word that
you are on the lookout for quality
pieces to refinish!
 Chapter One Vow
BE SAFE
Please, don’t be dumb when it comes to picking
up furniture from anyone, anywhere. If someone
wants to meet you, meet in public. Send your
mom, your best friend, your pastor, or even leave a
note on your counter with DETAILS. Who you are
meeting, where at, their contact information, all of
it. If you are headed to a yard sale 30 miles out of
town take someone with you. Carry pepper spray.
Be aware of where you are. Just don't be dumb,
promise?!
I always, ALWAYS go the overkill route and send
my location, a screenshot of conversation, and the
time to call for help if I haven’t gotten in contact
with about 5 different people any time I am
hustling for furniture.
By continuing with reading this ebook, you are
promising me you will be safe. I am putting all of
my trust in you. No pressure.
 #2 Chapter 2:
Prepping Your Furniture:
Repairs + Paint Prep
There is a lot that goes into the prep of any refinishing job you will do,
but always remember that this part is not only imperative but also the
most important.

You will come to find that furniture comes in all different styles, designs,
aaaand also in all kinds of conditions. As in dirty, stinky, broken, and
really just begging for someone like you to shed some light and love!

In this chapter we will go over the most common forms of damages and
how to repair them.
- Veneer + The issues that come with it
- The worst smells and how to get rid of them
- Dents + Chipping + How to Fix
- Removing Hardware + Switching Hardware
- Cleaning For Paint Prep.
Where am I going to do this???
Not all of us have shops or garages or even a driveway to work in, and
even if we do, have you met old man winter?! I get it. Where in the world
are you going to do your hustle if you don’t have the space. When I first
started flipping furniture for money, we lived in a one bedroom
apartment. On the fourth floor. With no garage space. In Utah… hello all
four seasons. I flipped furniture in the middle of our family room, in
between the TV and the couch. I stored my supplies under the kitchen
sink, and I made the best of it! When guests came over, we pushed my
current project to the side and carried on like it was normal… because
for us, it was.

Circa 2015 with my son in our

kitchen. Notice the pink
dresser and desk behind us...
waiting to be sold, and
hanging out in our kitchen,
because THAT was the space
that was available.
 One of my first ever flips,
photographed in the little
tiny space I had to work on
it in our first apartment.

There ARE a few investments you can make to ensure a more

dedicated, comfortable space. An unfinished basement is a great
option. Get yourself a space heater or a fan for the warmer months. I’ll
say it ten thousand more times — if there is a will, there is absolutely
100% a way.

ALL of the products I recommend are low VOC (volatile organic

compounds aka the stuff you don't want to breathe in), meaning they
are safe to use. IF they are not, they are listed as such, and you should
find alternative spaces if using those products OR use alternative
products

Another example of using whatever workspace available...

my half finished basement.
 Veneer + Issues that come with it:
One of the most common issues with furniture is that unfortunately,
most furniture is not solid wood (if you DO find a piece that is solid
wood, hold on tight and count your blessings, promise??) and is most
often covered in veneer.

WHAT is veneer? Veneer is a thin (usually about 3 mm) layer of fine

wood glued on to core panels like particle board. Veneer is used
because it provides a nicer quality look without the expense.

How do you know if it is veneer? If your piece is covered with veneer,

you can give it a once over and look for any seams - or areas where there
is a line where the veneer is attached to the edges/back/sides of the
piece.

Another product similar to veneer that is used is laminate.

The difference between the two?: Veneer is a thin layer of wood,
laminate is a surface made of plastic but printed to look like wood and
bonded to a composite base.

(Image Credit:
https://www.franceshunt.
co.uk/news/2011/04/what-
is-veneered-furniture-
and-how-is-it-used/ )

eneer
V

Laminate
image source:
https://www.fuc
hsiadesign.com
/blog/wood-
flooring-101-
solid-v-
engineered-v-
laminate
 ISSUES With Veneer/Laminate:

One of the most common issues in

furniture refinishing is coming
across furniture that has been
covered in veneer that is now
chipped and/or breaking off. Veneer
can start to peel and break down
naturally over time as the glue used
to adhere it breaks down from
humidity, heat, or water damage.

DONT STRESS. This is fixable and

totally not something to be
overwhelmed or intimidated by.

How to fix Veneer:

Asses the damage. You can use a thin putty knife to lift around/under
the areas on your piece that are peeling and lifting. As you do this
take note of whether or not it is peeling up in large pieces or if it just
one small part. CHECK REALLY WELL. The last thing you want to have
happen is to finish your piece, only to discover that you’ve missed a
chunk of veneer and it has now come off or lifted and you have to
start over.
To GLUE Veneer Back together

If the veneer is peeling off in small pieces and IF you are choosing to
stain the top (I wouldn't recommend staining any veneer that has
excessive damage - opt for paint), you CAN repair the existing veneer
that is lifting and peeling by gluing it back down.
Continued...
To do this, you will use wood glue and apply it in between the cracks.
You can use a pin, toothpick, popsicle stick, or any other small, thin
object to ensure that your glue is spread evenly. Once you have
applied the glue be sure to wipe off any excess that may have oozed
out with a damp rag or paper towel.

Once you have glued your veneer back down, use a wood clamp to
hold it all together. If the veneer is in a hard to clamp spot, like the
center of a dresser, I will use heavy items like a large book, to place on
the area so that it is weighted down.

Allow dry time - I generally wait about an hour, but this time can vary
depending on what glue you use.

To FILL in areas missing Veneer:

If you are choosing to paint the piece of furniture, you will simply need
to fill in the gaps with wood filler or even better, Bondo.

Mix your Bondo (If you aren’t sure how to mix bondo, here is one of
the best resources I have found and continue to refer to!) Be sure
to mix and use in a ventilated area. She's a smelly one.
Apply your Bondo with a putty knife. You’ll notice that it is a runny
peanut butter consistency - don’t panic, this is normal. Fill in the
areas that need it, remove the excess that you can with your knife.
Let the bondo dry for about 10 minutes, at this point, be sure to
get off as much excess as you can. At this point the Bondo is set up
and easier to work with. It is more difficult to sand, so if you can
remove the excess as this point it will be easier once it is
completely dry to smooth and blend in!
After the area is completely dry (generally about 30 minutes - SO
much more efficient than wood filler), you will want to sand and
smooth it all out. Start with about 80 grit sand paper, then down to
120 and 220 until you cant feel a transition or any bumps with your
hand.
 To Remove Veneer:
If your veneer is a mess and needs to be completely removed — have
no fear, it is possible and truly not terrible.

In some cases, the veneer is a complete loss and needs to be removed

completely. Don't stress, this is a lot scarier than it sounds. Using your
putty knife (and wearing some gloves so you don't get a sliver), pry
underneath the veneer and lift it off. Sometimes it is loose enough to
be lifted by hand and will snap off. Other times, it can be difficult to
get your putty knife under. In this case you can use a hammer to help
push the putty knife. Do your best to remove as much as possible with
your putty knife and elbow grease — You can do it!!

NOW. There are occasions where no matter how much effort you put
in, that veneer is stubborn and was glued to STAY. Here is the solution:

What you need:

Putty Knife
Heat Gun (or hey, a good old fashioned blow dryer)
A Damp Dish Towel

As mentioned before, Veneer is attached with glue. In this case, the

glue has dried and cured and isn’t about to give up. The following will
once again activate the glue, allowing you to pry off the veneer
completely and effectively.

To remove Veneer that won't pry off . . .

Place your damp dish towel over the area (try to work in smaller
sections), and use your heat gun held directly above the area for a few
(10-20 seconds), remove the towel and begin prying. At this point, the
glue should be activated and you should be able to pry the veneer off
nice and easy. If it doesn’t peel up right away, you can do the same
process as many times as needed to lift it all.

Once the veneer is removed, there can be

gouges and an uneven surface
underneath. We will cover how to fill in
You Can
and even out your pieces coming up — I
promise!
Do It!
 The Worst Smells and How to Get Rid of Them
Once upon a time, I got an end table from the thrift store for FIVE
dollars. It was mid century style, no chipping, hardly and dents and
just in need of some new paint. The second I lifted it up to check out
I gagged on the stench. It was SO. BAD. I am here to tell you that
something like a smell should NEVER stop you from getting s piece
of furniture (I mean, especially if its a darling MCM table)!!!

before
I got lucky with this cutie, and
after airing out in my garage
for a few weeks (she may have
been placed in a corner to
think about the way she smelled…), the smell was
gone and all was well. Not all situations are like this. after
best ways to rid of bad smells:
Baking Soda
Shellac
Let it air out!
Baking Soda
For the Baking Soda Trick, simply put a
container, like a small bowl, of baking soda
and place it inside your piece. I’ve actually
done this where I will put one little cup/bowl
in each drawer to speed up the process.
Baking Soda will absorb the smell. When I do
this usually I leave the piece out in my
garage or outside to help aide in ridding of
the smell.
 AIR IT OUT:

This is the easiest way and *usually* will work (like with my small
night stand!), simply take your piece outside, and open it up. Prop
the cupboards open, open the drawers, doors - anything that opens.
Try to keep it clear of “the elements” if you can keep it in your garage,
do that, otherwise be sure to keep it out of the sun and away from
water. You can leave it out for a few days. If the smell is still strong,
give the baking soda method a try. If that doesn’t work… Shellac will.

Shellac: The DIYers Best Friend… Sort of.

Shellac is amazing. Truly, it is. Not only does it block tannins (colors
that bleed through… more about this in the Paint chapter) but it also
blocks smells from pets, mildew, smoke and really any other smells
that you will find. I prefer to use the spray kind inside of drawers or
cabinets BUT when you are blocking the smell on any piece, you
generally want to coat the entire piece of furniture, not just the
inside.

When this is the case, I like to use this version

with a chip brush on the full exterior, brushing
with the grain of the wood. Shellac is oil based
and can be messy. I like to use the chip brushes
so I can throw them away. The smell is also very
strong, so I recommend a well ventilated area
and a mask.

Dents + Scratches + Peeling Paint

Inevitably the pieces you find will most

often have dents, scratches and some
will have peeling/chipping paint. As you
are sourcing your pieces, be sure to
take in to account the amount of small
repair you will have to do, as it can take
up some time.
This is the perfect example of chipping
paint AND dents.
Continued...
in this situation, you need to not
only sand but THEN fill in with
wood filler. You don't want to just
fill in over chipping paint... it
won't work and it will make a
monster of a mess!

First, sand. I like to start with a 120 grit, if that isn't abrasive
enough you can try 100. You need to be careful to not scratch
into the wood, and if your sandpaper is too coarse, that can
happen.
Once you have the initial layer of chipping off, do your best to
blend the area in with your 120 grit. Making it even with the
existing paint is the goal.

after sanding
 After Sanding: Wood Filler
Next is time to apply your wood filler to even everything out
completely. When you apply your wood filler, use your putty knife
push it in as best as you can by sliding it with the grain as well as in
the opposite direction, ending with the grain.
I love this kind because it goes on purple and dries natural colored.

Here is an example of the filler drying, showing the color variation

before and after drying.
Once you have allowed your filler to dry sufficiently, use your 120 grit
sanding block, and then your 220 to smooth until you can feel any
bumps. IF your dent is still indented or not smooth, you can fill it, let
it dry and sand again. This isn’t at all uncommon to have to fill bigger
dents 2+ times.

Removing + Replacing Hardware

One of the best + simplest way to
update a piece of furniture and bring it
back to light is with hardware. This
dresser is the PERFECT example of
hardware that makes it look far from
fancy.

Cheap plastic? No thanks.

 So, let’s solve the problem. Removing
hardware is the easy part. A drill or
screwdriver will do the trick.
Righty tighty, lefty loosey. You’re
welcome for that reminder.

Once you have your hardware

cre
w ob
n removed, you need to decide if you will
e S the k
Th
g be replacing it or reusing the old.
hin
ac Sometimes you can update the old —
att
like with spray paint or some rub n’
buff, and they will work perfectly!
Other times, like shown above, the hardware HAS GOT to go.
Most older furniture hardware spacing is different than the spacing
of hardware now. They used to vary in spacing, but hardware now is
generally 3” apart.
If you remove your hardware and are NOT using the original
hardware, you have to keep in mind what you will be using!
Filling in old hardware holes
Remove hardware to expose holes
Fill holes with wood filler
Remove excess with your putty knife
Allow to dry completely
REPEAT THE PROCESS.

In order to successfully fill the holes, you will need to do this same fill,
smooth, dry process two to three times. This is the best way to
ensure the holes are filled completely.

After repeating the process, sand the area to smooth and create
a level finish.

Second Layer
First Layer Filled First Layer Dried + Sanded Dried + Sanded
 Common Drawer Issues
It's easy to run into drawer issues when you're on the hunt for
furniture to flip. Don't let this stop you. Drawers fixes, although
intimidating, can be pretty simple fixes a lot of the time. If you know
how to assess the damage, you can easily make the decision of
whether or not fixing the drawer (and refinishing the piece as a
whole) is worth your time.

A Drawer front is loose/falling off.

Initially this seems like the most intimidating scenario, right? Wrong! I
promise it isn't, and here is why: It's literally just a case of loose or
missing screws. Each drawer face is attached to the drawer itself with
(usually) two to four wood screws. If one of those is loose or missing,
you've got yourself a sagging or completely missing drawer face. TO
FIX the problem? If the case is simply a loose screw, bust out your
screwdriver and tighten it -- problem solved.
If a screw is missing, replace it with a new one.

Now the more tricky scenario would be that the screws have stripped,
worn out, and/or created a hole too large to hold the drawer in place
properly.

If this is the case: Remove any existing screws that are attaching the
drawer. If there is hardware attached (like a handle or knob), you will
need to remove that as well. Once you have removed your drawer
face you will drill two (or however many there were to start with) new
holes in the drawer frame. *NOT* the drawer face that you just
removed. Drill the holes close to where the existing holes were, but
not too close that they hit and create a bigger hole.

I like to use the existing screws when possible to determine A. what

size to drill (generally its about a 3/16" drill bit, and then B. mimic the
size of the existing screws with what will be used to replace the old
screws that need replacing.
Once you have drilled your holes and determined your screws, you
can attach the face of the drawer to the frame using the new holes.
Voila! A new and sturdy drawer face.

The drawer is sticking/hard to pull out

In this case, your track just needs a little bit of tender loving care. Here
is one of my favorite tips of all time: get yourself a bar of soap.
Whaaaat?! I know, mind blown.
Take your drawer out and rub the bar of soap on, around and in the
track on the drawer AND the track that is inside of the frame. The
soap works as a lubricant on slides that are old and over used,
making them slide once again like they are brand new!

The Track is Broken

First things first? Check the screws! A lot of the time the main cause
of a wonky track is simply that over time, the screws have become
loose. Tighten those bad boys up, rub some bar soap for good
measure and you're golden.

Not all cases are so lucky, unfortunately. If the track is bent, you can
try to bend it back, which can work on occasion! IF you need to
replace the track, your best bet is to replace ALL of the tracks on that
one drawer i.e.: if there are tracks on both sides of the drawer,
replace both of them as well as the tracks inside of the box to match
so that they align correctly.

There are countless YouTube tutorials covering every variation of

drawer track and how to adjust them.

The Bottom is Falling Out

If the bottom of your drawer is falling out there are only three
items you will need: wood glue, clamps and a stapler.

There are times when the bottom isnt actually attached to the
bottom of the drawer, but sits inside of the drawer, notched in
nice and snug. If this is the case, you can use your wood glue and
line inside where the bottom slides in, and slide the bottom
back into place. After you have it in place use your clamps to
keep things nice and tight while they dry. If you have any glue
leaking be sure to wipe it off with a damp paper towel.
If the bottom of your drawer sits beneath the frame (like the photo
above), you will line the edges with your wood glue, clamp it down,
and then use your stapler to reattach.

Congratulations, you now know how to adequately master some of

the most frustrating factors of furniture refinishing!!!

Guess What?!
You've made it. Your piece has been fixed in all of the ways it needed,
and now you get to do the one last thing (and arguable the MOST
important!): CLEANING your furniture piece.

Let me tell you this: no paint, no matter how great, can do its best
work when being applied to a dirty piece of furniture.

The easiest way to start the cleaning process is to vacuum it all out.
This way you aren't just creating mud, and its a lot easier to vacuum
hard to reach corners and spaces than it is to wipe a nasty cobweb.
After vacuuming, I prefer to wipe everything down with this product
and a rag. I have also used dawn dish soap + water, you just need to
remember to not allow the water to sit and soak your piece as it can
cause water damage.

If your furniture piece has grime, dirt, wax, or really any form of
heavier duty mess, I recommend this product. It truly is like magic.
Be smart - wear a mask as it smells strongly, and work in a ventilated
area. I will spray it on a rag or have sprayed it directly on pieces as
well. I will have a scraper on hand to aid in any extra help I might
need. Once you have cleaned off the harder spot, be sure to wipe it
down with a damp rag to get off any residue.

Although cleaning is the most simple, it really is the most important!

Don't skip over it. Even if your piece looks clean - give it a good wipe
down anyway. You won't regret cleaning it off but you will regret
skipping over it only to find you painted a dead spider (okay, slightly
dramatic but CAN YOU IMAGINE?!).
 #3 Chapter 3:
paint, paint, paint
Painting furniture.
We made it. The whole reason we are here. Right?! Well, sort of.
Painting for me isnt just fun, its truly theraputic! But also SO fun.
Colors are limitless (thank you BB Frösch!), and truly nothing like a
fresh coat of paint changes something so dramatically! Okay, I am
done gushing. Lets get into it!!!

My Go-To paint supplies

Paint Brush- this is the paint brush I use 99.9% of the time.
Forever.
Accent Brush- this paintbrush is great for accents like spindles.
Painters Paper - I prefer using this over a drop cloth
Tape - Its worth it to get the good stuff, I promise.
Paint containers- I like to use these. Reusable, washable, and lids.
Need I say more?
These detail brushes are also really great for accents and tiny
detail.
 To Get Started.
The most important factor of this WHOLE furniture flip ordeal is
using the right products. There are many, many great products.
There truly are! I have used close to if not all of them. When it comes
to flipping furniture yourself, with a different product EVERY time
and not mass producing the same item twenty thousand times - I'm
talking to you, IKEA - you need to make sure you are using what is
best in every scenario.

With no further adieu I give you my all time and forever favorite paint
product: BB Frösch.

Now, lets clear a few things up

What IS BB Frösch:
100% natural
a paint additive
assists in paint adherence to almost any surface - metal, wood,
linoleum, cement, metal and more.
non-toxic
maximizes paint coverage

okay, you get the idea, right?

After years of trying countless

products, I tried BB Frösch and
truly loved it so much, that I
have never turned back.
Step ONE:

Your project has been prepped, cleaned, your space is ready, and your
furniture is in place.

REMOVE HARDWARE + SCUFF

If you have hardware (like knobs, hinges etc), now is the time to
remove them and put them IN A LABELED BAG. You don't need to get
fancy, a ziplock bag will do, just be sure to store ALL of it TOGETHER
and write "brown dresser" or whatever on it. There has been more
than one time where I've ended up with more than one baggie
without a label, and it is nothing short of a migraine.

Now, one of the benefits of using a product like BB Frösch is that it

doesn't require a lot of prep, which is great. BUT if you're painting a
piece of furniture that is thick laminate or ANYTHING FROM IKEA, I
implore you to give the whole thing a good scuff job. I don't mean
sand the whole thing until you're dripping sweat. I mean use a 80 grit
sanding block or sand paper and, going with the grain or the same
direction, essentially wipe it down with sand paper.

If you need to scuff it, be sure to wipe it down with some tack cloth to
pickup any excess dust.

Step Two:

Mix Your Paint: The fun part has arrived. The beauty of BB Frösch is
that you aren't limited on color choice and can still get the best
possible results. Can I get a hallelujah?!

How To Mix BB Frösch:

How much powder you mix will depend on how much paint you are
using. I like to use sample sizes of paint for almost every project (a little
bit of paint goes a long way!), so for this scenario I will say we are
mixing for 1 cup of paint. **Mixing instructions and amounts are
ALWAYS listed on the container and included with your BB Frösch.**

This is from the BB Frösch site and it the exact method I use when
mixing my paint.
ONE: Mixing Your BB Frösch Magic

Mix your powder and your water - I like to use this to help eliminate
any lumps and make it all a donut glaze consistency. I mix my powder
and water in a small bowl (bigger obviously, if I am mixing a lot).
If you are worried about your paint adhering you can double or even
triple the amount of powder/water. This will only increase the bonding
properties.

TWO: Mixing Your Paint

This is where the containers I mentioned in your product list comes in

to play. Add your paint to the container. Yes, all of it. Yes, dump it. Yes,
it will be fine.
Stir your paint and make sure that it is all mixed well. Once your paint
is good to go, you can now add your BB Frösch and mix it all together.
THIS PART IS SO IMPORTANT. Mix it well, and then mix it again for
good measure. I love using the clear containers because I can see
through to ensure its ALL mixed.

THREE: The First Coat

The first coat is not supposed to

give you full coverage. The first
coat is setting the stage for the
next coats by using a technique
called cross-hatch strokes.
Basically painting X's that look
like this:
What is the purpose of the cross hatch strokes? The cross hatch
strokes create a surface for your next layers of paint to adhere to and
allow the self leveling properties of BB Frösch to take full effect. This is
the brush I use when I paint, I love it because the bristles are polyester
and help achieve the smoothest finish.

In the accent areas - like spindles, curves and detail areas, don't stress
as much about having the perfect cross-hatch strokes. Do them as
best as you can, just be sure your first coat is thin and even. This brush
makes detail work much easier.

Let the paint dry completely - the BB Frösch helps speed up the
drying process quite dramatically. With the first coat, I recommend
waiting an hour before starting on the second.

**If you are painting laminate or Ikea furniture, as well as doubling

your BB Frösch powder/water, give the first coat 24 hours to ensure
adequate curing to happen.**

FOUR: PAINT + PAINT AGAIN

The second coat is easy and really when

you start to see the transformation begin.
Lets be real - the cross-hatch stage can
look terrifying.

Once your first coat has dried, you can

start your second coat.

With this, you switch over to classic brush

strokes. Load your brush at the top, never
ever soak the bristles all of the way up.
Loading it too full can cause a mess of
excess paint and also ruin your bristles.
Start at the edge and paint your straight, smooth strokes. As you paint
you might see brush strokes; remember that your paint is wet and it
will self level as you go. If your brush starts to feel like its pulling and
not gliding, its time to dip your brush for more paint.

Try not to go over the same spot more than once before it is dry, this
can pull up the paint and make your pretty finish not so pretty.

Let your paint dry, and repeat until your piece is fully painted and the
coverage is solid. I find that three coats is usually enough, with a few
extra brush strokes here and there to add coverage where needed!!
Now its time for the finish coat!

Before you jump to it, assess your paint job: is it smooth and even? Do
you see any bumps or heavy strokes? IF this is the case, take this 220
sanding block and smooth it all out. Once you have done this, take
your tack cloth and wipe all around where you sanded or anywhere
that dust may have gotten. If this removes too much paint don't panic.
Touch up the needed spots with a few brush strokes and wait for it to
dry.

Once everything is dry and pretty, pat yourself on the back. You made
it to the finish line.

The Second Coat Secpmd Coat Dried Third Coat Drying

FIVE: The FINISH LINE

If you feel like Dora the Explorer singing, "We did it! We did it," I am
here to validate the heck out of you and congratulate you because you
DID do it. You're almost done transforming your piece of furniture.
Let's seal the deal.

I always seal all of my pieces with this Polyurethane for a few reasons:

1. It is water based. Water based is easier to work with, WAY easier

to clean and also hey, not flammable, which is always a plus.
2. It is the only finish I have found that doesn't yellow over time.
3. Low odor, next to no smell at all
4. It is scratch and stain resistant

I use the same kind of brush to apply my poly as I do to paint.

However, I do like to have one set solely aside for paint and one solely
for poly. This way you don't accidentally end up with paint in your poly
and vice versa.
 Poly is much thinner than paint, so be
aware of that as you start. Load your
brush 1/4 of the way up (again, never to
the top), and just like with painting,
start on one side and work your way in
even strokes to the opposite side.
Don't go back over a stroke within the
same coat. Wait until it is completely
dry before reapplying - I wait 2 hours
after my first coat, and 24 hours after
my second.
After you have finished your first coat of
poly, let it dry for an hour (if you are using a
different poly than what is recommended,
be sure to follow the guidelines on the dry
time listed on the can). Dry time with poly
is SO important.

After your first coat is dry, you will sand

lightly in between with this 220 grit
sanding block. Sanding in between might
sound crazy, but this is what makes the
difference in an okay finish to a smooth,
beautiful finish. Trust me on this one.Use
your tack cloth once again to remove any
dust particles.
Apply your second coat of poly and let it stand for 24 hours. 24 hours
later, you will once again sand with either a 220 or 400 grit sanding
block. Wipe well with a tack cloth to remove any dust! Remember
you're smoothing the surface here, not trying to be abrasive in any
way!

After your final coat dries smooth it once again with your 400 grit
block and pour yourself a drink friend, take it all in because YOU
FREAKING DID IT.

poly upon
poly after
application
drying
 What if you want to stain?
Steps to staining:
Prep your furniture like you would to paint. If there are dents to fill,
make sure you are using this wood filler so that it is stainable.

With staining, you will need to remove all existing paint. It is

important to note whether or not your piece is all wood or
veneer/laminate. If it is NOT solid wood but is veneer, you can sand it
very lightly. You have to be careful to ensure you don't sand through
the veneer.
If your wood is raw, you should also be sure to sand the surface
smooth before adding any pre stain or stain.

Pre Stain is ALWAYS something you should do. It allows the wood to
evenly absorb the stain, and preps the wood by sealing wood pores,
creating an even application

Apply your pre stain, let it soak for about 5 minutes and then wipe off
the excess. After half an hour, you are good to add your stain.

After

Before
I prefer to use painters rags and rub on my stain.
This is the stain I like, there are multiple color variations to choose
from. Fold your rag into a small square and dip it into you stain. rub it
on with the grain of the wood, allowing it to soak in. Depending on
how dark you want your stain to be, you can repeat the stain, dry,
stain process as many times as you would like until the look you want
is achieved.
Wait an hour between each coat of stain. Let the stain dry over night -
or 24 hours, before adding your poly.

As with painting, you will finish your stain with the same poly top coat,
sanding in between each layer for the ultimate smooth finish.
Frequently Asked Questions
F.A.Q.
Q: What paint do I use?

A: I prefer to use Satin paint, I love the

Marquee line by Behr from Home Depot. Any
good, quality paint will work fine.

Q: What Sheen of Paint?

A: The sheen doesn't matter necessarily, because

you will be adding a topcoat at the end. However!
The sheen needs to be satin, matte, or flat in
order for the BB Frösch to work effectively. If you
are wanting to distress your piece, be sure to use
flat paint, as it is easier to distress.

Q: Can I use a roller?

A: Yes! You absolutely can. Rollers can

sometimes tend to add a bit of texture (of
course, this will all depend on what pad you
use), so when I roll I use this kind with this
handle.

Q: Can I use BB Frösch in a paint sprayer?

A: Yes! I use BB Frösch in my sprayer ALL OF THE

TIME. This is the sprayer I use and love!
Depending on which sprayer you use you will
need to thin your paint with water (this is normal
when using sprayers with or with out BB Frösch).
 #4 Chapter 4: Staging
Staging
This is where you determine whether or not your piece sells for
pennies or Benjamin's. It's important. Why do we love to look at
magazines? Why do we want to take everything from the Parade of
Home's back to our home? One word: STAGING. It is important. And I
mean like, really important. This is where you get to determine if you
will blend in or stand out amongst the endless ads and others who
resell furniture.

Set the Scene: A Good Background

When I started staging my furniture, I painted one wall in may
garage white. I leaned white shelving up against the foundation, and
I swapped out rugs every now and then to shake things up. It cost
me zero dollars. IF you don't have paint on hand or any rugs? Thrift
some rugs - use the skills you learned on sourcing furniture. Then go
and get yourself a can of white paint for $20. Create a space that you
can use as your go-to background, free of distraction. Don't have a
garage? Use a neutral wall inside, close to a window for good light.
I'm telling you, if there is a will, there is a way.
Quick tips:
- remove clutter from the space - clean area to work with
- neutral wall/backdrop

These were all taken in my garage:

 Check the Style

Make sure when you’re styling your piece that you are including
items that go with your item, not against it. For example, don't put
your mid century plant stand next to your curvy, victorian dresser.
The person who is looking to buy your hairpin leg coffee table isn't
going to vibe with your hot pink throw.

For example, refinished modern Barrister Cabinet with a modern

plant stand:

Set the mood

Remember - this is staging. Not real
life aka what it will look like filled
with socks or next to your bed with
your phone charger and water
bottle. You want those who are
looking at it to find it appealing but
also for them to look at it in awe
and want it to be theirs because of
the beauty of it. Use your items to
bring that to reality.

The best staging items:

Some greenery (hello plants)
Books with pretty spines (or
books turned with just the
pages showing!)
Generic (pretty) art
Vases
Throw Blankets: texture
Don't Over Think it - Or Over Do It
Keep a collection of the same items you use to stage. Every few
months, swap a few out. Better yet, sell some of the items you are
done with and use that money to buy a few new ones.

Start with a blank slate - just your furniture item, and add an item
one at a time. Shift things around, step back, and evaluate. Don't
worry about having every photo look different or having new items
every time. The items are accents, and their main job is to accent the
piece you are show casing. Use a few items - up to five, and call it
good. Don't throw on ten books, a lamp, a plant and a pitcher
because you're over thinking it. Step back: how does it make you
feel? Cluttered? Overwhelmed? Peaceful? Anxious? Step back,
evaluate, shift an item or two, and take the photo.

How to photograph:
Once you have your piece staged,
the photo is just as important. In
the case of selling furniture you
need one WOW photo to draw the
eye to your ad, and then the detail
shots to show your buyer what its
all about. Get a top shot, both
sides, a few close ups and a
fullshot of the whole piece.

You don't need a fancy camera. Every photo I take is with my

iPhone when it comes to furniture flipping. The key is good
lighting. The best light is always the sun, hello. Like lighting from
an open door or window - natural light is best. If your space
doesn't have natural lighting or for whatever reason you can't get
the natural light you need, you can find a photography light
online for less than $25. Another item that is worth the
investment!

Stumped? Take to the internet. Pinterest +

Instagram are both great places to find staging
inspiration
 #5 Chapter 5: Selling
Selling: It's Go Time
You’ve done it all. From start to finish, and now its time for the moment of
truth: actually SELLING your piece of furniture.

What Do I Charge?!
This can be extremely tricky, especially at the start. Your time needs to
be worth the money you are making, but just like any skill, it can take
time to really hone in on the process and truly work so that you are
enjoying it but also profiting! I now can charge anywhere from $50 -
$100 per hour, but I am also experienced and can do a good job really
efficiently. When I started, I charged about $12 - $15 an hour, still more
than minimum wage AND I got to listen to audiobooks, podcasts or
watch movies in my sweats while I worked from my living room
#worthit!!! So lets FIGURE this out, together:

Estimated time of refinishing an item:

End Table / Side Table: 2 - 3 hours Night
Stands / Coffee Table / Console Table: 3 - 5
hours Dresser / Kitchen Table / Hutch: 6+
hours
 Let’s first evaluate the time and money you have already put forth on
each piece.

If you spent $15 on a side table, spent $20 on materials, and it took you
3 hours, and you’re charging $15 an hour to start, thats $35 in material
and $45 labor, thats $80 total. NOW evaluate your piece. If it took you
3 hours, it should be next to brand new. Stage it right, list all of the
details (we will go over that!), and list it higher — say $110. Toss in a free
delivery within 10 miles or so ($5 in gas), someone comes in and offers
you $110 (because your piece is flawless, you’ve staged it perfectly and
its worth it), you’ve now profited $20 more than you anticipated,
averaging out to be $20 an hour taking in to consideration your drive
time for delivery.
SO take everything in to consideration - time spent, money spent,
and what you need to make for it to be worth it.
Start looking to see what similar items are selling for and take that
into consideration
(we chatted about this in our “Sourcing” chapter as well).
 Where do I sell?
We are all pretty aware that I work solely on Instagram, so I will tell you
what I tell almost everyone — START THERE. Show case what you are
doing as you go, because then you are sparking that interest. People
will start messaging you before the product is even finished with
interest.

Marketplace and Craigslist - yep, just like buying, FB Marketplace and

Craigslist are both also a fantastic places to sell your items!

Apps On Your Phone: OfferUp is a really great example. There are apps
you can download specific to YOUR area, look them up, and give them
a try.

Try Consignment - I have had my furniture in a few local shops. Selling

on consignment is a great way to give your furniture traffic it needs to
be seen AND gives you the opportunity to free up space in your house.
While your items are listed in the shops, you can also have them listed
elsewhere, like Marketplace, but you don't have to worry about even
dealing with the customer, simply direct them to the shop. The
downside to consignment is that you DO lose a percentage of your
profit because the store will receive part of it. For the sake of the
advertisement and ease, this may be worth a shot for you.
 What to Include

Description

You want to be very specific and

descriptive with what your item is.
Not only for the sake of your buyer,
but also for the search engines.
Don’t say, “Dresser” say “Rattan,
four drawer, Boho Dresser.”
Be sure to list the style, if you aren't
sure, look it up.

Dimensions: people need and want to know the size. If its listed and
clear, you are making their lives easier and are more likely to have a
buyer.
Details: does it have drawers? Doors? Shelves? How many? Do they
open?

What brand is it? If there is a listed brand, take a photo of that and
include it as well. Look inside drawers, underneath tables, and
around each piece.

What is the finish/material?: Is it stained and sealed with poly?

Painted and sealed with poly? Just sealed with poly? What sheen?
Include the material it is made of. Wood? Cane? Marble? Glass?

What can it be used for?:

If you have a dresser… think outside of the box! It could be used as a
media console, storage in the entry way, kids dresser and more!

TALK IT UP: You need to sell the piece like it is the best thing that
has ever existed.
This isn’t just a console table. Its a one of a kind, beautifully refinished Mid
century modern glass top console table. Perfect for your entryway to add
character and be a catch all in the best way - hold your keys, a basket for
shoes, hidden of course, and a look that online costs $x more.

Verbiage: Selling online you will see

acronyms used, you will also want to
use them in your description!
talk
talk the FCFS: First Come, First Served
OBO: Or Best Offer
PM: Private Message
PPU: Pending Pick Up,

Selling can take some practice, but with the right photos, details,
verbiage, and price point it is ABSOLUTELY possible. Don't get
discouraged if you don't sell your first piece in 5 hours or even 5 days. if
you have done your part:

IT WILL HAPPEN
 You did the dang thing.
This is a big deal. Truly. Be proud of
yourself. Even if you just finished READING
this ebook, you've now got the resources
you need to get started, going, and on
your way to furniture flipping success.

I wish there was some magical recipe to

perfecting the art of furniture refinishing.
A top secret trick to selling every piece for
$100 over asking price and to turn your
piece over in 25 minutes.

The truth is, there isn't. I learned that the best way to learn and to
get good and to succeed, was to fail and try and fail and try again.
It was hard a lot of the time. It was exhausting. But the rewards are
SO good and SO worth it. I want more than anything for you to be
successful and I truly hope that THIS has been all of the help you are
in need of and then some.

I am proud of you. NOW it's time for YOU to be proud of you and
time to GET to WORK.

xo,
Kenna