Fashion designing

Grade XII ISC Notes – Traditional costume of the 2020-21

Men of Gaddi Tribe of Himachal Pradesh

GADDI DRESSES AND ORNAMENTS

DRESSES:

Traditional dress of the gaddi community is typical easily distinguishable from other people of
habitat by the way gaddis are dressed. Though the clothing pattern is going through change
with the passage of time, yet 'Chola and Dora' dress is worn or considered on most of the
festivals and occasions. Gaddis engaged in agricultural and allied pursuits wear pyjamas like
other local people. Gaddi shepherds used to wear their traditional dress which is changing as
well.

➢ Traditional male gaddis wear 'Chola'(or Cholu) which is a long loose woolen dress
upto their knees and tied round their waist with several rounds with Dora. The chola is
made up of 'Patti'(hand spun woolen cloth) and is stitched in such a way that Gaddi
during migration keeps new born lambs in his 'Chola'. Baby Lambs can be 5-6 kilogram
in weight. 'Chola' is used as bedding also. Special design of the 'Chola' is made of wool
as earlier this apparel used to be the dress of Lord Shiva. A loose shirt "Kurti", is worn
by men under "Chola". This "Kurti" or "Kurta" is made of cotton cloth.

➢ Dora is most important part of the dress as it is worn over 'Chola' or 'Luanchri' round
the waist. The maximum length of a men’s dora may be the 10 to 25 Mts. The maximum
weight is 2 kg. which is worn by adult males. The 'Dora' of It is made of wool and is
usually black in colour. Dora' is worn due to a number of reasons.

o It is used as saddle for carrying the load on the back.

o It is used as rope for carrying luggage known as "Kachhi".
o It keeps the waist erect specially while climbing up the hills.
o Small articles like leather pouch of tobacco, flute and money bag are tied in it.
o This is also used as pillow especially during journeys.
o It has a religious touch as well and gaddis take it as a sign of 'Lord Shiva".

Luanchari - Women Dora - For Luanchari and Gaddi Women - Chola - Men
Dress Chola Attire Dress
Lower garment: Legs used to be generally kept naked by men earlier. "Suthan" or "Pyjama"
is worn on certain occasions especially on marriages etc.This "Pyjama" or "Suthan" is of cotton
or woollen(also called 'Unali-suthan') whicn is tight below the knees up to ankle and loose
above knees.

Topi/ Cap: Both cap and turban are used to cover the head. The most common topi (cap) is
made of woollen piece of cloth and is a round one which is 5 to 6 inches in height. Woollen
topi which is known as "Bushari topi" in Himachal is also worn. Gaddis are found of Kalgi and
flowers. They stitch kalgi on the topi and keep flowers on their turbans especially on marriages
and fairs. The peak of the gaddi cap is said to represent the Kailash mountain peak.

Shoes: Gaddis mostly wear shoes made by local cobblers. Shoes are generally made up of
leather, called Mocharu are heavy sturdy and last for longer time. These are rough looking but
a durable shoe also called "Jutta".

During marriages gaddi boy(groom) traditionaly wears a very fascinating and attractive dress
called Kadd or Luancha. It is a long red or maroon colored cotton frock with similar colored
yolk. It is decorated with different types of mirrors, frills and piping. The waist of the Kadd is
tied with a white and yellow cotton piece called a Patka. A red or marron colored shawl is also
taken over the Kadd. On the head groom wears a very intricate crown called Sehra made by
local people, it consists of 'chiris' designed colourful sticks in its circumference.