General Procedures on Maintainin your Swimming Pool

1) Remove leaves; grass cuttings, etc daily with a pool net, Gently brush sediment off the
walls and steps regularly.
2) Clean out Skimmer box basket and Pump basket regularly. Do not forget to set the
MultiPort-Valve on closed when cleaning out the Pump basket, Baskets full of leaves
restrict the flow through to the pump and this poor circulation can result in the water
going green.

3) With the Pool Cleaner disconnected, backwash for a minimum of 3 minutes and rinse for
40 - 60 seconds weekly, Remember that when you backwash and refill, or when it rains,
you reduce your chemical level automatically. These levels need to be corrected
accordingly.

4) Your swlmmlng pool should have a shock-treatment (double dose of chlorine mixed in
water) every second week to oxidize all organic contaminants (i.e. perspiration, sun tan
lotion, mucus discharges, etc.)

5) Top up pool regularly. Acquire a good Test Kit, Stabilizer levels will need to be tested in
the Pool Shop.

6) Test Chlorine level regularly and maintain levels between 1.5 and 3 as Indicated on the
test vial, Chlorine Is the sanitizing agent in the pool, If Chlorine Is added to the pool,
always mix It thoroughly in a large bucket of water and pour the contents into the pool,
at the return/almflo while the pump Is running, preferably at the beginning of the
filtration cycle.

7) Test and adjust the pH to 7.2 weekly. The pH of the tears in ones eyes is 7.2 and If the
water burns the eyes, then the pH js either too high (needing acid) or too low (needing
bicarb), The higher the pH, the higher the chlorine level needs to be to sanitize the
water effectively, so rather lower the pH with acid. If the pool needs acid, add only the
required amount based on the water-test tables and the size of the pool.

8) The Total Alkalinity must be maintained between 80 ppm (parts per million) in fiberglass
and 100ppm in gunite pools by the addition of the correct amount of Bicarb/Alkalinity
Up monthly, Bicarb/Alkalinity Up must be mixed in a bucket of water and poured into
the pool at the return Jet at the beginning of the filtration cycle. The Total Alkalinity is a
buffer against rapid pH change.
 9) The Stabilizer level must be maintained between 40 60ppm in order to avoid Chlorine
loss due to the Ultra-Violet rays of the sun. Chlorine is a very unstable product therefore
if the levels are below 40ppm the sun removes the Chlorine from the water. Stabilizer
acts as a pair of sunglasses on the surface of the pool to make the Chlorine more stable,
If the stabilizer level is 100ppm or higher, the water is "over-stabilized" and this can
result in the pool going green. A mild algaecide will need to be added as preventative
measure.

Constant use of a stabilized floater in a small pool very rapidly results in an over-
stabilized" pool, as does not backwashing and rinsing regularly.

10) Chlorine is for disinfection of the pool water and not there to kill algae therefore if the
water takes on the slightest tinge of green, an Algaecide should also be added to control
the algae.

11) If the water is not crystal clear and appears a bit murky, a Filter Flocculant should be
added to the water to help filter the small particles in suspension in the water.
12) When treating the water or when adding chemicals, unplug the Baracuda / Kreepy.
Improved flow-rate will hasten effectiveness and mixing of chemicals,
13) Add chemicals at the beginning of the cycle - "fall-out" can occur if chemicals are added
just before the pump switches off.

14) A hand vacuum to waste with an 8-wheeler or a vacuum brush should be done if there
is too much sediment on the bottom of the pool. Excessive build-up will block the filter.

15) The recommended running time for a pool pump during summer time is 12 hours a day
and 6 - 8 hours daily during winter. As a guide-line only - in a 50,0001 pool with a .75kw
pump it will take 4 hours to "turn the water over" once only. You will do your pool an
injustice if you try to save electricity by cutting down the running hours, particularly in
summer.

16) If you decide to use a Floating Chlorine Feeder to sanitize your pool, have your Stabilizer
level checked first to establish whether you need a stabilized product (Pace /
Monthmate) or a non-stabilized product (Kleenklor), A 20,0001 pool is too small to use a
stabilized product — rather stabilize the water first using the granules and use a non-
stabilized floater. Floaters generally last a month — date the floater with a khoki to
keep a record of its time in the pool.

During summer months it is advisable to add chlorine twice a week as opposed to all once a
week. So rather two cups of hth twice a week than 4 cups once a week!