Information Sheet No.

4
PC Assembly and Disassembly

Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Identify the cables and connectors used to connect PC components
2. Install and configure new components in a PC

The pages that follow describe the major steps in assembling a "typical"
PC. But before we go on, we need to point out that every computer building
project is a little different.

For example, the design of your particular motherboard may make it

easier to install the components in a different order than the order that
appears here. That's fine. Take a few moments to look at your particular
computer and plan for yourself what is the best sequence to use.

Also take a moment to review the safety and anti-static precautions

before going any further. Few things feel quite so bad as ruining a part of your
homebuilt PC because of failure to protect it against static discharge.

Things you should know:

 The amount of money it takes to build a computer depends on you:

You can make your computer as simple or as complex as you want. It

all depends on how much you want to spend, and how quickly you can
learn everything. It also depends on where you buy your parts.

 Not everything will go as planned:

What fun would that be? Building a computer requires patience since
the chances of getting a bad part here or there is a reality and can really
throw a wrench in your plans. With something as complex as a computer
with so many parts, the chance of something going bad is higher than it is
with most other things. Don't let this discourage you though. Building your
own computer is extremely rewarding and will allow you to understand it
better, and thus fix it without the help of the kid next door or some
technician.
  Be careful with static electricity:

Computers contain a lot of small electronic components that are very

sensitive to electricity so it is important that you work in a static free
environment. What is a static free environment? Simply put, it is the
location you are in when building the computer that prevents you from
building up static electricity and pass it to the computer. This can be
achieved very simply by wearing rubber soled shoes and standing on a
surface that does not conduct electricity. Tile, wood, and concrete are perfect
surfaces to stand on; carpet is not a good option.

 Finally, don't be afraid to make a mistake:

By doing something that you've never done before you are growing as a
person and learning a great deal. The best way to learn about computers is to
experiment, make mistakes, and learn from them.

Tools that you will need:

The assembly of a computer requires no more than:

 A Phillips head screwdriver
 Possibly a flashlight
 A clean working area
 Possibly an Anti-Static Wristband
 All your computer parts

Tools Need for Computer Hardware Servicing

You don't need an expensive toolkit to build your own computer, but there are
a few simple tools that you absolutely must have. All of these can be easily
obtained at almost any computer store, usually in a little case that contains
everything you need. You can also buy most of them at ordinary hardware
stores.

As with all tools, you should buy the best quality computer tools that you can
afford. Good tools last longer and make the job easier. All computer tools
should be non-magnetized.
You will need, at a minimum, the following simple tools:

Screwdrivers and nutdrivers.

You should have available, at a

minimum, small- and medium- sized
Phillips and flat screwdrivers and a
1/4" nutdriver.

Needle-Nosed Pliers
Very small needle-nosed pliers are very
handy for removing and inserting
jumpers on motherboards and hard
drives. (A pair of tweezers or surgical
forceps also works well for this
purpose.)

Cable Ties
Plastic cable ties are useful for neatly
bundling wires and cables away from
fans and other components inside the
computer. If you can't find them,
electrical tape is an acceptable
substitute.

Anti-Static Wrist Strap

This is a little elastic strap connected to
a wire with an alligator clip on the
other end. The alligator clip is attached
to a metal part of the computer
chassis, and the elastic band slipped
around your wrist. Better-quality anti-
static kits also include a rubberized
mat that connects to the wire and is
placed under the computer being
worked on. This provides extra static
protection, and also protects your
tabletop from scratches. Click here for
more information about anti-static
precautions.

Heat Sink Compound

This is usually included with processor
fans, but may be purchased separately.
It is applied neatly to the area where
the processor contacts the heat sink to
improve cooling efficiency. (Some heat
sinks have the compound "built-in"
behind a little peel-off label.)

Canned Air
This is really needed only if some of
your parts are used and/or dusty.
Never blow into a computer with your
lips to remove dust. Your breath
contains too much moisture (and
maybe other things depending on what
you ate for dinner). Use canned air
instead. It's cheap.

Pill Bottle
You'll need a pill bottle or other small
container to hold the various screws,
jumpers, and other small parts used to
assemble and configure a homebuilt
computer.

Safety Goggles

Goggles and safety glasses (fig. 1)

are forms of protective eyewear that
usually enclose or protect the eye
area in order to prevent particulates
or chemicals from striking the eyes.
Fig. 1. Safety Goggles
Multimeter

A multimeter or a multitester is an
electronic measuring instrument
that combines several functions in
one unit. The most basic
instruments include an ammeter,
voltmeter, and ohmmeter. Analog
multimeters are sometimes referred
to as "volt-ohm-meters", abbreviated
VOM (fig. 2). Digital multimeters are Fig. 2. VOM Fig. 3. DMM
usually referred to as "digital-multi-
meters", abbreviated DMM (fig. 3).

Wire Stripper

A wire stripper (fig. 4) is a small,

hand-held device used to strip the
insulation from electric wires.

Fig. 4. A simple manual wire stripper

Pliers

Pliers (fig. 5) are hand tools,

designed primarily for gripping
objects by using leverage. Pliers are
designed for numerous purposes and
require different jaw configurations
to grip, turn, pull, or crimp a variety
of things. They are a tool common to
many dexterous trades and
occupations. Many types of pliers Fig. 5. Pliers
also include jaws for cutting.

screwdriver

A screwdriver (fig. 6) is a device

specifically designed to insert and
tighten, or to loosen and remove,
screws. The screwdriver comprises a
head or tip which engages with a
screw, a mechanism to apply torque
by rotating the tip, and some way to
position and support the
screwdriver. A typical hand
screwdriver comprises an
approximately cylindrical handle of a
size and shape to be held by a
human hand, and an axial shaft
fixed to the handle, the tip of which
Fig. 6. Screwdriver and different types of
is shaped to fit a particular type of
tip shape; (a) Slotted, (b) Phillips, (c)
screw. The handle and shaft allow
Pozidriv, (d) Torx, (e) Hex, (f) Robertson,
the screwdriver to be positioned and
(g) Tri-Wing, (h) Torq-Set, (i) Spanner
supported and, when rotated, to
apply torque. Screwdrivers are made
in a variety of shapes, and the tip
can be rotated manually or by an
electric or other motor

Soldering Iron
A soldering iron (fig. 7) is a device
for applying heat to melt solder for
soldering two metal parts together.
A soldering iron is composed of a
heated metal tip and an insulated
handle. Heating is often achieved
electrically, by passing a current,
supplied through an electrical cord
or a battery, through a heating
element. Another heating method
includes combustion of a suitable
gas, which can either be delivered Fig. 7. Soldering Iron
through a tank mounted on the iron
(flameless), or through an external
torch.
Desoldering tool

(fig. 8) is used to remove solder and

components from a circuit for
troubleshooting and repair purposes.
Electronic components are often
mounted on a circuit board and it is Fig. 8. Solder Sucker
usually desirable to avoid damaging
the circuit board, surrounding
components, and the component
being removed.

Allen wrench

An Allen wrench, Allen key, hex

key or hex head wrench (fig. 9) is a
tool used to drive Allen screws and
bolts, which have a hexagonal socket
in the head.

Fig. 9. Allen keys of various sizes

Flashlight

A flashlight (fig. 10) is a hand-held

portable electric spotlight. Used for
lighting spots in areas that needs
illumination.
Fig. 10. Electronically regulated, variable
output LED flashlight
Magnifying Glass

A magnifying glass (fig. 11) is a

single convex lens which is used to
produce a magnified image of an
object. The lens is usually mounted
in a frame with a handle.
Fig. 11. A magnifying glass

Tweezers

Tweezers (fig. 12) are tools used for

picking up small objects that are not
easily managed or handled with the Fig. 12. Tweezer
human hands.

Antistatic Wrist Strap

An antistatic wrist strap (fig. 13) is

a wrist strap with a metal contact
that presses against the wrist. The
contact is connected to a wire, and
the other end of the wire is
connected to an alligator clip. The
alligator clip is attached to an
electrical ground, typically the
chassis of an electronic device being Fig. 13. An antistatic wrist strap
serviced.
IC insertion/extraction tool (fig.
14)

WK-7 kit includes DIP IC extractors

and inserters to accommodate all
IC's from 8 to 40 pins.

All tools that engage conductive

surfaces are CMOS safe and include
grounding lugs where appropriate. Fig. 14. IC insertion/extraction tool
The kit consists of extractors EX-1
for 14-16 pin devices, and EX-2 for
24-40 pin chips, plus inserters MOS-
1416, MOS-2428, and MOS-40 for
14-16, 24-28 and 36-40 pin IC's
respectively.

RS 232 pin insertion/extraction

tool (fig. 15)

Use this tool to install and remove

pin and socket contacts in AMP® RM
and RME ARINC connectors. Each
tool has two color-coded halves. The
color of the insertion tip half
indicates the applicable contact size.
Use the 91066-1's light green handle Fig. 15. RS-232 insertion/extraction tool
for insertion and white handle for
extraction of size 22 contacts.
LAN tester (fig. 16)

Continuity testing of coax cables

with BNC connectors and 8-pole
data lines w. fitted RJ-45 connectors
The device recognises open and
short-circuited (wire/wire or
wire/shield) connections A two-line
display (LEDs) indicates sequentially
which pin of the RJ-45 connector at
cable end A is connected with which
pin at cable end B and manual or
automatic switch advancing is
possible; in the case of a short-
circuit more than two LEDs light up
simultaneously The device has 2 RJ-
45 sockets; with the supplied Remote Fig. 16. LAN tester
Kit cables laid in the wall can also be
tested Two adapter cables (BNC/RJ-
45) are supplied for testing coax
cables
Getting Ready

• Before beginning to assemble your new computer, gather everything you

need (your tools, components, and manuals) together in one place.

• Place something over your table to avoid damaging the surface. An anti-
static mat is best because it will not only protect your table from
scratches, but also protect your computer's components from static
damage.
• Safety and Anti-Static Precautions

 A static shock that is much too small for a human to to feel can
still be enough to fry sensitive computer components. So if you
don't have an anti-static wrist strap, stop right now and go buy
one. The one pictured on the right is a professional model that
comes with an anti-static mat (the red thing in the picture). The
strap attaches to the anti-static mat as well as to the computer's
chassis.

• The wrist strap attaches to the computer's chassis by means of a high-

tech device commonly known as an alligator clip. Connect the alligator
clip to an unpainted, metal part of the computer chassis, and check it
frequently to make sure it hasn't fallen off.

• The wrist strap may be placed on either wrist, as long as it fits snugly.
Most people place it on their non-dominant wrist so it's less in the way
while they are working.

• Anti-static kits are sometimes called "ESD" kits. ESD stands for "Electro
Static Discharge." It means exactly the same thing.
 Installing the Motherboard

• Installing the motherboard in your homebuilt computer usually is pretty

easy (though sometimes knuckle-busting). Basically you just line up the
board with the mounting holes and rear-panel openings, and then screw
it in. (If you purchased a computer kit or "barebones" computer, the
motherboard may already be installed).

• Read the Manual!

 Before actually installing the motherboard, read the motherboard

manual to make sure absolutely sure that it is compatible with the
processor and RAM that you will be using and that the jumper
settings, if any, are correct. Most modern motherboards have a
"jumper-free" option that can be selected (usually by setting a
jumper, amusingly enough) that will allow you to control the
motherboard settings from the keyboard during CMOS setup.

• Determine Which Mounting Holes You will be Using

  About the only difficult part of installing a motherboard is
matching up the mounting holes in the mobo with the ones on the
case. In theory the mounting hole locations are standardized; but
in practice, it's rather unusual to find a case and motherboard
whose mounting holes exactly correspond. More often, you will
have to look at the mounting holes in the motherboard to
determine which mounting holes on the case you will be using.

• Installing the Standoffs

 Once you have determined which mounting holes in the case you
will be using, you will need to insert standoffs in those holes. There
are several types of standoffs, with the ones on the right being the
most common. The purpose of standoffs is to separate the back of
the motherboard from the metal case. You install the standoffs in
the mounting holes in the case that correspond to the holes in
your motherboard.

• The standoffs are screwed or inserted into the chassis, and the mobo in
turn is attached to the standoffs through the mounting holes in the
motherboard. This creates a small space that prevents the back of the
motherboard from shorting out against the metal case.

• Don't be surprised if your motherboard has "extra" holes for which there
are no corresponding holes in the case. This is normal. Very few cases
and motherboards will match exactly. As long as you use all the
mounting holes that do match, you'll be fine.
• Install the Motherboard

 Once you have the correct standoffs inserted, lay the motherboard
into the case, line up the mounting holes and the rear-panel
connectors, and screw it down. Usually, the easiest way to do this
is to lay the motherboard over the standoffs slightly forward of the
rear panel connectors, then slide it back into the rear panel
connectors until the mounting holes line up. Then screw the board
down.

 Don't over tighten the screws! You will crack the motherboard if
you do! They should be snug, not excessively tight. Use a standard
screwdriver, not an electric or powered one.
• Attach the Power Connectors

– Finally, connect the ATX power connector from the power supply to
the motherboard. Do this now. If you forget about it and later fire
up your computer while the ATX connector is not connected to
anything, then you will likely fry your computer's power supply.

– On Pentium 4 and some other high-powered computers, you will

also have to connect the P4 connector to the motherboard.

P4 12V Auxiliary power

Installing the Processor

• Anti Static Precautions

 Processors are extremely sensitive to static charges and physical

shock. Never handle a processor roughly, never touch the pins,
and never handle it unless you are using proper anti-static
precautions.
  Handle the processor gingerly, holding it only by the edges. Set it
down only on an anti-static mat or on the foam pad that it was
shipped in.

• Inserting the Processor Correctly

 Processor sockets are keyed to prevent improper installation.

Notice in the picture on the right that both the processor and the
socket have two corners without pins. This is to prevent the
processor from being installed the wrong way. Modern processor
sockets are of ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) design. If the processor is
aligned properly with the socket, gravity alone should cause it to
drop right in. You should never need to use force to insert a
processor.

• To install the processor, lift the bail at the side of the socket, line up the
pins with the holes, and let the processor drop into the socket by its own
weight. Look closely at the processor to make sure it is seated flush
against the socket. Then gently close the bail to secure the processor. If
 you encounter resistance at any point, stop and make sure that the
processor is lined up correctly.

Installing the CPU Cooler

• Today's fast processors generate a tremendous amount of heat. Without

a cooler, a processor would burn out in seconds.

• Inadequate cooling also can result in data errors, performance problems,

and reduced processor life. CPU manufacturers typically provide lists of
"approved" coolers for their chips. To extend your homebuilt computer's
life and maximize its performance, we recommend that you use the best
cooler you can find that has been manufacturer-approved for your
particular processor.

Parts of a CPU Cooler

 CPU coolers are composed of three parts: A fan, a heat sink, and a
mounting device that attaches the cooler assembly to the
motherboard directly over the processor. A fourth element of the
cooling system is something called "heat sink compound" or
"thermal jelly," which is applied between the heat sink and the die
of the processor to improve heat transfer from the processor to the
heat sink.

• Many heat sinks come with a patch of heat sink compound pre-applied
to the heat sink itself. The actual compound is covered with a little
plastic tab during shipping. If you are using a heat sink with pre-applied
 heat sink compound, then you need to peel the protective tab off the heat
sink prior to installing the cooler. Forgetting this simple step can cause
serious damage to your processor.

• If your heat sink doesn't have pre-applied compound, you will need to
apply a thin coating of heat sink compound directly to the processor die.
This also applies if, for some reason, you have removed and are replacing
the heat sink. The old compound must be completely removed and new
compound applied before replacing the cooler. We suggest you use a
high-quality jelly like Arctic Silver. The difference in price is trivial.

• The CPU cooler assembly is positioned over the processor and is usually
secured by clips. Notice that both the socket and the heat sink are offset
from center a little to accommodate the bail. Make sure you install the
cooler with the offset on the same side as the offset on the socket. Use a
slotted screwdriver to gently, but firmly, hook the retaining clips under
the plastic tabs on the processor socket.

• Note that some cooling assemblies use plastic clips that simply slide
straight down over the processor and snap into place. These types of
assemblies usually don't require tools to install.
• Don't forget to plug in the fan! In most cases, it will plug into a three-pin
connector on the motherboard that is labeled "CPU Fan" in teensy-
weensy letters. You can also use an adaptor to directly connect the fan to
the power supply, but using the CPU Fan connector allows the
motherboard to monitor and regulate the fan speed. (You usually can
disable this functionality in the CMOS setup, in which case the fan will
run at full speed all the time.)

• Chipset Coolers

– Most modern motherboards also feature chipset coolers, at least on

the Northbridge chipset. These are almost always factory-installed
and are adequate for all but the most intensive use. If you find it
necessary to replace or upgrade the factory-installed chipset
cooler, the process is essentially the same as installing a CPU
cooler, except that chipset coolers usually are fastened to the
motherboard using spring fasteners or plastic retainers rather than
a metal clip.

• Liquid Cooling Systems

– Far from being a new idea, liquid cooling has been used since the
early days of mainframe computing, and it has recently attracted a
following among PC builders who use their computers for gaming
or other intense applications. We tend to be a little skittish,
however, of adding water to electronics; and frankly, we don't see
where it does that much better a job of cooling than a high-quality
air cooler. Nonetheless, it is an option, so we thought we'd at least
mention it here.
 Installing the RAM (Memory) Modules

• Anti-Static Precautions

 Like processors, RAM modules are extremely sensitive to static

charges and should be handled very carefully. Never touch the
metal conductors, and only handle RAM modules by their edges.

 Before actually installing the RAM modules in your computer,

check again to make sure that the RAM you have is of the correct
type and speed for your motherboard.

• Proper Insertion of the RAM Modules

 RAM modules are keyed with little notches that fit over
corresponding tabs in the RAM slots. We've circled them in the
picture on the right (click the picture for a close-up).

 Before inserting the RAM module, make sure that the notches and
tabs are correctly lined up. If there are more notches than there
are tabs (or vice-versa), then you have the wrong RAM for your
motherboard. To actually insert the RAM, simply push it straight
down into the slots and push the retainer clips inward.
 Installing Expansion Cards

• Depending on the motherboard you have purchased, you may need to

install one or more expansion cards. Many new motherboards have
audio, video, and network "cards" built right into them. But if not (or if
you don't want to use the integrated cards), then you will need to install
expansion cards.

• Proper Insertion of Expansion Cards

 Like RAM, expansion cards and slots are keyed. Notice in the
picture on the right that the AGP video slot is set back from the
rest of the slots and is of a different size. In addition, the various
ridges, tabs, and so forth on the card and the slot are intended to
help prevent incorrect insertion or incompatible cards. But you
should still read the documentation for your motherboard and
cards to make sure they are compatible.
• The card shown in this picture is a network card that fits into the PCI
slot. Notice that it is keyed to the slot.

• It usually doesn't matter which PCI cards are installed in which slots.
But sometimes it does, depending on how a particular board manages
shared resources. So before installing PCI cards, check the motherboard
and expansion card manuals for any recommendations for slot
assignments.

• Once you have determined which cards will be installed in which slots,
actually installing them is simple. Simply align the card in the slot,
perpendicular to the motherboard, and push down until you feel the card
"pop" into place. You may have to use some oomph here. If the card
doesn't seat itself using fingertip pressure, place your palm over the card
and push down firmly and evenly until you feel the card pop into place.
• Finally, secure the card into place by screwing the card's metal bracket
into the screw hole over the expansion slot opening on the back of the
case. (It's a good idea to save the slot covers in case you ever decide to
remove the card.) Some cards may have additional connections that have
to be made, such as the cable that connects a CD-ROM drive to the
sound card. See the card's documentation for detailed instructions.

Installing the Hard Drives

• There are several different types of hard drives available. At the time of
this writing, EIDE drives are still popular, although SATA (Serial ATA)
drives are rapidly closing in.

• This page uses an EIDE drive for illustration because using the EIDE
interface is slightly more involved than using the newer SATA interface.
Installing SATA drives is similar, however, except that SATA drives use
 different cables and connectors. SATA drives also don't require
master/slave relationships, and therefore have no jumpers to set.

IDE Hard Drive Configuration

 If you are using EIDE drives, then you will have to set the jumpers
to match the drive's configuration before you physically install the
drives in the computer.

• Setting the Drive Jumpers

 Once you decide on the drive positions and assignments in your

new computer, the jumpers must be set accordingly.

 At this point, let's mention again that all devices attached to the
IDE channels -- hard drives, optical drives, tape drives, ZIP drives,
and whatever other IDE/ATA devices may someday exist -- must
be configured either as masters, slaves, or cable-select devices. If
there is only one device on the channel, then it is the master.
(Note: Some drives have a separate jumper setting for "single"
drive.)

 You can't have two masters or two slaves on the same IDE
channel. This is one of the most common mistakes made by new
home computer builders, so double check your assignments and
jumpers before firing the machine up for the first time.

• Physically Installing a Hard Drive

 The case that we're using has a detachable "cage" for the hard
drives. The cage is first removed from the case, the drives are
mounted into the cage, and the cage is reattached to the case. This
design helps reduced scraped knuckles from working in tight
spaces and avoids the need to remove the side of the case behind
the motherboard to access the mounting screws.
• The hard drive is mounted in the cage using four mounting screws. Make
sure that you use the correct holes so that the cage will fit back in the
case properly. If you are mounting a front-accessible drive (such as a
floppy drive or ZIP drive) in the same cage, then make sure you mount
the front-accessible drive in the position behind the opening in the front
of the case.

• Once you have screwed the drive into the cage, re-attach the drive cage
into the case.

• Many people ask, "Is it really necessary to use all four screws to mount
the hard drive?" The answer is yes. Using four screws reduces the
chances of annoying buzzing caused by vibrations.
• Connecting the Hard Drive Cables

 Now we're ready to connect the data cables and power cables.
EIDE drives use either flat ribbon cables, or the newer-style
rounded cables. SATA drives use thin, very flexible cables that are
easier to route through the case and that improve airflow.

• For this demonstration, we're using old-fashioned ribbon cables. EIDE

hard drives use an 80-conductor cable that usually has color-coded
connectors. The black connector gets connected to the master drive, the
gray to the slave (if any), and the blue to the motherboard.

• The colored stripe along one edge of the ribbon cable must line up with
pin Number 1 on both the IDE controller and the drive. If pin Number 1
is not clearly marked on the device itself, then look in the manual or
instructions. (On hard drives, pin 1 usually -- but not always -- is the
one closest to the power connector.) Most EIDE drive cables also have
little raised grooves that fit into a little notch on the connector to insure
that they are attached properly, but sometimes these are absent.
• Attach the cables firmly, but gently, by pushing them straight onto the
connectors on the drives and the motherboard. Make sure that the pins
line up before you push. If you break a pin, you will permanently ruin
the drive or motherboard.

• If you are using a SATA (Serial ATA) drive, the connectors on the
motherboard will look like those in the picture on the right. Once again,
the cable should be inserted straight down into the connector. Make sure
that the cable is properly oriented on the connector. SATA connectors are
keyed to prevent improper insertion, so if it doesn't fit easily, you're
probably trying to attach it backwards.

• Connect the Power Cables

 Finally, attach the power connectors to the drives.

 Make sure that the power connectors are connected in the correct
polarity. The sockets and connectors are shaped so that they
should only fit the correct way unless you force them. So don't
 force them. If it doesn't fit without forcing, then you probably are
trying to connect it backwards.

Installing Auxiliary Drives

• Once you have decided on the drive configuration and have put the
jumpers where they belong, you can begin to physically install the drive.
In most cases, this means removing a metal plate from the drive bay
where you will be installing the drive. Most often, you do this by simply
prying the metal plate from the rest of the case using a screwdriver.
Always wear eye protection when doing this.

• The next step is to insert the drive in the case. This is usually easiest to
do from the front. Simply slide the drive back until it's faceplate is flush
with the front of the case.

• Be careful not to catch the drive's faceplate against the plastic bezel of
the case, or you may mar or damage the drive or your computer's case.
• Finally, secure the drive into place with the mounting screws, and
connect the data and power cables. The power and data cable
connections are made in the same way as when installing a hard drive.
Most optical drives, however, have an additional connector to send legacy
analog audio to the sound card. Check the manual for your drive and
your sound card for detailed instructions about this.

Installing the Panel Connectors

We're almost finished!

• One somewhat tedious but vital step in assembling your homebuilt

computer is to connect the front-panel switches and LED's from the case
to the motherboard.
• Each switch and LED on the front panel has a connector attached to it
that must be connected to the appropriate pins on the motherboard.
Unfortunately, there's not a lot of consistency here: To determine the
correct pins to attach the connectors to, you will have to consult the
motherboard manual or look for the tiny lettering on the board adjacent
to the pins.

• Some of the connectors (especially the LED's) are polarized, meaning that
they have to be connected in the correct polarity. When this is the case,
the connector will have a little arrow or a plus sign adjacent to the
conductor that attaches to the positive pin. If one of your LED's doesn't
work, try reversing the connector.
 Front Panel Connector

This connector makes sure the buttons and lights on the front of your panel
know how to work. It also powers the speaker that makes that "beep"
sound when you turn on your computer. Each motherboard may be
different but the instructions will look very similar to what is shown below.

It is very important to consult your manual to make sure you make

all the appropriate connections. One thing to keep in mind, the wires leading
from the front of your case will have black connectors on the ends of them that
look like the picture on the right. Each of these connectors has a wire that
holds the positive charge. If you look above, for example at the four orange
pins on the top illustration that signifies the speaker, you'll see that one end of
that row has a plus sign next to it.

To locate the wire that has the positive charge on the connector,
find the tiny triangle on that connector, as pictured to the right. This is
where patience and small hands come into very good use. Just take your
time and make sure you consult the manual for all your connections.

USB/Firewire/Audio Connections:
 Another possibility is that your case has USB, Firewire, or Audio
connections available on the front of the case. It is very important that you
look at your motherboard manual for these connections. If it looks like your
connectors from the case and the connectors on the motherboard don't
match up, then DON'T MESS WITH IT! It is very easy to fry a
motherboard since these types of connections require a lot of power to travel
through them. When in doubt, consult the manual or call the case or
motherboard company to get some help there.

Remember!!!!
Once you make sure everything is hooked up, double check it!

Check all connections

Yes, that's right; you're going to check your connections AGAIN! There's no
such thing as too safe when you're working with electronic components that
are sensitive to electricity.

This step will provide a checklist for you to go over, making sure that all your
cables are properly connected and secure:

Check List

1. Make sure all the cards are seated well and screwed in
2. Check the power connections
3. Check the IDE and Floppy cables and master/slave settings
4. Check the front panel connectors
5. Check any other connections

1. Make sure all the cards are seated well and screwed in:

This includes the RAM. You want to make sure everything is secure in its slot
and doesn't shift around when you lightly push it back and forth.

2. Check the power connections

Make sure all the power connections are secure and can't be easily pulled out.
This includes the power to the motherboard, CD/DVD drive, floppy drive, and
any other place that is using a power cable from the power supply.

3. Check the IDE and Floppy cables and master/slave settings

Make sure the hard drive is on the cable that is connected to the primary plug
on the motherboard. Also check to make sure it is the master, and the other
device on that cable (if there is one) is the slave. Check the other IDE cable as
well and make sure all of them are securely plugged in.

4. Check the front panel connectors

Refer to your manual and double check all the connectors for the front panel.
Make sure that small triangle on the plastic plug leading from the case is on
the positively charged pin on the motherboard.

5. Check any other connections

Double check any other connections you may have made and MAKE SURE
that no wires are near any moving parts such as the processor fan or the video
card fan. If possible, bundle the power cables together with a Velcro strap or
even a zip tie.

You are now ready to turn on your own built Personal Computer!
You can now proceed with the installation of Operating System.

Time to Double-check

Before firing up your new computer, take a few moments to double

check the following items:

• Check all the fans to make sure they are properly connected. Starting up
your computer with the CPU fan disconnected may kill your processor!

• Make sure that all wires and cables are safely tied away from the fans.
Neatness counts. Use plastic cable ties, not metal twist-ties.

• Check that all of the power and data cables are securely connected and
are attached in the correct polarity.

• Make sure that there are no tools, screws, or jumpers floating around in
the case.

• Check that all expansion cards and RAM modules are securely seated.
 Firing Up Your Homebuilt Computer

The moment of truth has arrived.

• Now look on the back of the computer on the power supply. Chances are
that you will see a little slider switch. Make sure that this switch is set to
the correct voltage for your part of the world. In the United States, that
will be 110 - 120 volts.

• Plug the power cord into the power supply, and the other end into a
surge-protected AC power source.
• The CMOS Setup Screen

 Hook up the keyboard, monitor, and mouse to their appropriate

connectors, and press the power button.

 Hopefully, if you have done everything correctly, after a few

seconds you will hear a beep and be greeted by a screen that looks
something like the one on the right. (You may have to press
DELETE, F2, or some other key to get to this screen, depending on
your motherboard.)

• What you are seeing is something called the CMOS setup screen (or the
BIOS setup screen). There are too many BIOS versions out there for us to
really guide you along at this point. You'll simply have to read that
manual. But here are a few basic suggestions:

 Start with the default settings. You can tweak them later if you
like.

 If you don't know what something means, leave it alone. Use the
default settings unless you know what you are doing.

 Make sure that all of your drives are showing up. If not, then shut
down the machine, unplug it, and check all your drive connections
and jumper settings again.
 Before installing your operating system, make sure that the CD-
ROM drive is set as a bootable device (unless you will be booting
from a floppy for the installation, in which case make sure the
floppy drive is set as a bootable device). You can usually find the
settings for the boot order in a section called, appropriately
enough, Boot Order.

 Make sure the date and time are correct before installing the OS.
Incorrect dates and times can cause all sorts of problems.

 Once you've finished CMOS setup, you're ready to install the

operating system.