GEOMORFOLOGI (GL3111)

BENTUK ASAL MARINE (MINGGU KE 8)

DOSEN PENGAMPU :
1. ALFEND RUDYAWAN, S.T., M.T., PH.D.
2. DICKO RIZKY FEBRIANSANU, S.T., M.ENG.

PROGRAM STUDI TEKNIK GEOLOGI

JURUSAN TEKNOLOGI INDUSTRI
INSTITUT TEKNOLOGI SUMATERA
ANALYSIS & INTERPRETATION

Terrain :
• Fluvial
• Coastal
• Folded Mountain
• Volcanoes
• Karst Morphology
• Complex Structures Coastal
COASTAL SYSTEM

Coastal
 COASTAL SYSTEM

Coastal landforms are shaped by:

Wind-driven waves
Currents
Littoral drift (Longshore Drift)
Tides
Storm surges and tsunamis
Fluvial processes

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL DYNAMICS

Coastal
Surf zone adalah daerah yang terbentang antara bagian dalam dari gelombang pecah
Coastal System
sampai batas naik-turunnya gelombang di pantai.
COASTAL ZONES

Surf zone adalah daerah yang terbentang antara bagian dalam dari gelombang pecah sampai batas naik-
turunnya gelombang di pantai.
Breaker zone adalah daerah dimana gelombang yang datang dari laut (lepas pantai ) mencapai ketidak-
stabilan dan menyebabkan gelombang pecah.
Swash zone adalah daerah yang dibatasi oleh garis batas tertinggi naiknya gelombang dan batas terendah
turunnya gelombang di pantai.
Coastal
Coastal System WAVE TERMINOLOGY

Coastal
Coastal System WAVE ACTION

Coastal
Coastal System WAVE ACTION

Wave reflection
• Occurs on steep shorelines (i.e.
deep water near shore)
• Waves don’t break; instead they
are
• Reflected back from the
shoreline

Coastal
Coastal System WAVE ACTION

Coastal
PERGERAKAN GELOMBANG VS GARIS PANTAI

Coastal
Coastal System WAVE ACTION

Coastal
Coastal System WAVE ACTION

Wave Dispersion vs Depth

Coastal
Coastal System WAVE ACTION

Coastal
Coastal System WAVE ACTION

Coastal
Coastal System WAVE ACTION

Tides
• Waves generated by interaction of
the gravitational fields of Earth,
Moon, and Sun
• In deep water, very large L and C
• as tidal waves shoal, L and C
decrease, H increases

Coastal
GELOMBANG & TRANSPORT SEDIMEN

Cara transport sedimen oleh drift pada swash zone

Coastal
ARUS LONGSHORE PEMBAWA TRANSPORT SEDIMEN

Coastal
Coastal System WAVE ACTION

WAVE REFRACTION

Coastal
Coastal System WAVE ACTION

WAVE REFRACTION
Coastal
Coastal System WAVE - TRANSPORT & SEDIMENTATION

LONGSHORE CURRENTS

Coastal
Coastal System WAVE - TRANSPORT & SEDIMENTATION

Coastal
Coastal System WAVE - TRANSPORT & SEDIMENTATION

LONGSHORE DRIFT

Coastal
Coastal System WAVE EROSION

Processes of Wave Erosion

• Abrasion: Rock fragments moved by waves

abrade rock or sediment
• Quarrying: Blocks broken loose by wave
impact + compression of air in fractures

Coastal
Coastal System WAVE EROSION

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

PRIMARY COASTS

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

SECONDARY COASTS

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

Erosional Coastal Landforms

• Sea cliff
• Wave cut platform
• Coastal terraces

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

Depositional Coastal Landforms

• Form through accumulation of sediment

transported by littoral drift

Include :
• - beaches and beach ridges
• - spits
• - barrier islands

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

COASTAL
MORPHOLOGY

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

COASTAL
MORPHOLOGY

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

SPITS

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

SPITS
>> BARRIER ISLANDS

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

BARRIER ISLANDS

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

Barrier island -
Delta

History of Barrier Island

• Sea-level much lower during last

glaciation; after glaciation, sea-level rose
until about 4000 years ago
• Transgressive barrier islands formed at
lower sea-level, and migrated landward
with rising sea-level

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

Barrier island -
Delta

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

SPITS MIGRATION

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

TOMBOLO

Coastal
 Coastal System
COASTAL
DEVELOPMENT

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

SEA ARCH

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

BEACH TERRACES

Coastal terraces
• Wave cut platforms now high above sea or
lake level
• Sea-cliffs may be preserved above and/or
below terrace
• Form through sea- or lake-level fall or
through tectonic uplift

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

BEACH TERRACES

Coastal
Coastal System COASTAL LANDFORM

WAVE-CUT PLATFORM

Coastal
Coastal System STREAM - COAST Interaction

Deltas

• Fluvial + coastal landforms

• Form through sediment deposition
when a river enters the ocean or a lake

Subaerial Delta Plain

• Upper delta plain: Above limit of high

tides
• Lower delta plain: Tidal influence
Coastal
Coastal System STREAM - COAST Interaction

DELTA

Coastal
Coastal System STREAM - COAST Interaction

DELTA

Delta growth
• Progradation into ocean or lake
• Switching between delta lobes

Delta Form
• Reflects interaction of river flow, waves,
and tidal currents

Coastal
Coastal System STREAM - COAST Interaction

DELTA

Coastal
Coastal System STREAM - COAST Interaction

DELTA

Coastal
Coastal System STREAM - COAST Interaction

DELTA

Coastal
Coastal System STREAM - COAST Interaction

DELTA

Coastal
Coastal System STREAM - COAST Interaction

DELTA

Coastal
Coastal System STREAM - COAST Interaction

DELTA

Coastal