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DESIGN RESEARCH

UGADFD-23. PRACHI AGGARWAL

5000014783
CONTENTS
What is research?
Yin & yang
Research and its components
Questionnaire
Market segments
Group activity ( DOODLAGE )
STP & VALS model
Trends
Trend board (ENWRAP)
Visual board development
Mood board
Research project
Essay
Mind mapping
Concept board inspiration
Concept board
Mood board
Colour board
Client board
Design brief

BOOBNBB8800.TW
understanding and
In -

depth study
summarizing exploring
wider aspects
Transparent
secondary sources
knowing the correct and
Different sources
complete of the
meaning
internet chosen topic .

Gathering Basic

Information
>
Books etc
,
magazines .

auditory Primary
research
Photographs interviews ✓

live - video survey

Experimental

Etf seeing
Problem

solving
-

Sensoria

SIGHT

auditory olfactory
Taste TOUCH

PROTECTED IGNORANCE BAD HABITS PROTECTED

concept BY GIVING REASON

NON -
SUBTLE
YIN -

YANG CURIOSITY

/
y

INTANGIBLE PHILOSOPHY BALANCE NEGATIVE

TANGIBLE
POSITIVE
concept of
Duality forming a whole .

sunnyside~snaaysi.de INTERDEPENDENT UPON EACH OTHER

COMPETING & COMPLEMENTARY


FORCES

"
3,500 YRS . OLD

%
"" " """" "" " " "" " ""
CHANGES EACH OTHER

REPRESENTED BY NIGHT
DAY

|
(AURE
)
DRAGON

J
WWR
↳ FEMALE

UNBROKEN LINE y
YIN ( DARI SWIRL )

STARTS AN ACTION

i
1 ✓

RELIEVES ACTION

YANG COMPLETES ACTION
( LIGHT )
HARDER

STRONGER REPRESENTED BY TIGERS
MALE BRIGHTER ( ORANGE) →
FASTER
BROKEN LINE

WHITE MOUNTAIN
BLACK VALLEY

①① ⑥ 0 §
SUN R "" POOR
-
MOON
ACTIVE
UPPER LOWER
POSITIVE RECEPTIVE
REST
SOUTH MOVEMENT NEGATIVE
HOT
OR CONCEALED
OPEN Noren
FIRE EVEN

{PÑDDDD②
COLD
nouns 0☐☐
WATER
HARD
OLD
SOFT

• YIN YANG is not Static -

ONE ASPECT CAN TRANSFORM INTO THE OTHER

• 41N + YANG = 1 ( 41N M -


YANG d) ( YANGA -
YIN d)
R E S E A R C H

PRIMARY SECONDARY
PURPOSE -

Self CONDUCTED CONDUCTED BY


1- WHAT OTHERS
DO ORGANIZATIONS OR BUSINESSES REALLY
OFTEN NECESSARY TO
WANT TO FIND OUT
? PROVIDES
ANS specific RESEARCH
.
INFO NECESSARY TO UNDER -

2- WHAT ARE THE PROCESS THAT NEED TO BE FOLLOWED QUESTIONS .


THAT SPECIF' -
STAND WHAT RESEARCH
CALU ANS .

HAS ALREADY BEEN


TO CHASE THE IDEA ? Research

QUESTIONS CONDUCTED
3 '

WHAT ARE THE ARGUMENTS THAT NEED TO BE CAN Require a


.

BUILT AROUND CONCEPT BUDGET AND


A ?
TURNAROUND TYPICALLY CHEAP
4. WHAT IS THE EVIDENCE THAT WILL BE REQUIRED FOR
TIME AND
QUICK
PEOPLE TO BELIEVE IN THE IDEA OR CONCEPT ?

QUALITATIVE RESEARCH

ABOUT INQUIRY
STATISTICAL
0
NON -

°
DEPENDS ON EXPERIENCE Of RESEARLERS &
QUESTIONS

USED
°
SAMPLE SIZE (6-10) ( 100 Atleast )

ONE -10 ONE INTERVIEW
°
CASE STUDY ,
FOCUS GROUPS ,
CONTENT ANALYSIS

OPEN -

ENDED QUEST .
-
ONE LEADS TO ANOTHER

QUANTITATIVE RESEARCH

°
TO DRAW CONCLUSION
°
STATISTICAL
NUMERICAL
°

°
SAMPLE SIZE / RESEARCH INVOLVES LARGE no . Of POPULATION
°
HENCE MORE ACCURATE RESULT .

°
CLOSE ENDED QUESTIONS
ONLINE SURVEY ,
QUESTIONNAIRE , POEMS ,

te
0 REACH LARGE AMOUNT Of PEOPLE
assignment
REASEARCH -
BASED ON THE PRODUCT OF YOUR CHOICE FROM YOUR VICINITY GATHER

QUALITATIVE AND QUANTITATIVE DATA BY REACHING OUT TO THE CONSUMER GROUP .

PRODUCT -
SUNGLASSES
FOCUS QUESTION -
ARE SUNGLASSES A FASHION STATMENT OR NECESSITY ?

QUESTIONNAIRE :

9- Which
age Group do
you belong to
?
g- How
many pair
of
sunglasses you
do have ?
g- often do
sunglasses I
How wear
you
g- How often do
you buy sunglasses ?
How much would be for
Q you willing to
pay
a
-

pair
of sunglasses ?

g- Which of the
following style you ar more
likely
to
buy ?
Q what colour do
you prefer ?
-

do sun lasses 7
Q
why you wear
-

Q where do
you buy sunglasses from ?
-

Q what frame size of sunglasses


do
you
like
?
-

Q which
of the follow shape is more
appealing to
you ?
-

Q for
you
what matters the most in a
pair of sunglasses }
-

( colour shape other)


Quality ,
Style , , ,
responses
conclusion

56.7% people are of age group 18-25


: 49.3% are female
40.3% people wear sunglasses on occasion while 23.9% wears daily
: 53.7% people buy sunglasses 1-2 times a year
49.3% people own 2-3 pair of sunglasses
: For 55.2% people quality matters the most in a pair of sunglasses
34.3% people are willing to pay 1000-2000 and other 34.3% - above 2000

÷
70.9% people own Ray-Ban sunglasses
40.3% people prefers wayfarers style sunglasses
31.3% people find round shape more appealing
82.1% prefers black colour over brown, white , red etc
47.8% people wear sunglasses for eye protection while 52.2% wear for
fashion

Sunglasses are very useful product that protect the eyes from
harmful rays and yet are so fashionable and chic. They became
popular when movie stars began using them to protect their
eyes from the bright studio light. They are available in various
styles, colours and shapes, from classic black wayfarers to
embellished quirky glasses. To sum it up, people wear sunglasses
mostly for fashion although eye protection comes with it
eventually.
MARKET SEGMENT

DESIGNER'S

Trend -

Setters Luxury Segment


Create Awareness Creative Brains

Personalization / Bespoke Innovation ,

creativity
collaboration

RETAILERS

Mass Market Sale / Discount


Consumerism
Majority
Source
Buying Customer Service

Ready to wear sizes ( S M L ✗ L )


-
-

, , .

competition

EXPORT

Not direct source for


buying
works for brands at same time
many
Industrial / mass production

cost effective
Quality moderation

Strict Guidelines detail moderation


Design
Pricing based competition No after services

CRAFTS

Designer is Smallest Garment segment High Pricing


Manufacturer
Skill based Uniqueness
Segment
Free size

family / community based Skills are passed


Ethical / Ecological from one
generation to

Based on resources another


understand chosen Market
segment
assignment
-


Brief History

Product mix / Asthetic

Market ( Client . Price etc )

1113 GUT THE 1: lift into

The brand Doodlage, was born from a simple idea-to create a unique, environmentally friendly
products, which was high on style. Doodlage has always valued the resources they had and
loved to be a part of it Doodlage is an ethical fashion brand reversing the design process to
fulfil their zero-waste mission, it is a blend of sustainable and innovative design, they design,
deconstruct and develop chich garments using industrial waste, dead stocks and sustainable
materials. They make sure every product has its own identity- just like you. Their main focus
is not only to make garment look beautiful but also the story behind the garment, they add
substances to what is worth a second life.

They source fabrics, which are left unused by other retailer post-cutting. And also work with
eco-friendly fabrics, such as organic cotton, corn fabric, banana fabric etc., much like pieces
of a puzzle, these bits and pieces come together, each with its own story. They love
experimenting with textures, embroideries, panels, washes, shapes and sizes to optimize the
use of every little piece.

131111141 > KGGF.us


.

Kirti Tula, a trained apparel designer, and an alumnus of pearl academy who got a chance to
pursue her master's degree at london College of fashion in design management on a full
scholarship. She has worked as a designer for various large and small manufacturing units and
design houses which gave her a holistic understanding of creating, running, managing, and
promoting brands in a webspace.

Realising that garment industries were a major contributor to the fabric waste that chokes
landfills, Kriti decided to upcycle this waste. Despite their good intentions, doodlage also ends
up generating waste but unlike other brands, this waste doesn’t go to the dump yard. The
waste they create is shredded to create new fabric that goes into home furnishings and bags.
doorways
market

The customer profile of brand Doodlage fits


both men and women of all ages. These are
individuals who are dedicated to sustainable
and eco-friendly living, with fresh ideas
and aesthetics. The youngest of audience
are Gen Z and millennials who came from
urban and higher- education background.
They are aesthetically minded customers
and conscious slow fashion shoppers.

On top of that they are the audience that tend to


be the most proactive in seeking out sustainable
brands and are willing to boycott brands that don’t
fit this model. They are somewhat vocal and
knowledgeable about sustainability. Theyprioritise
raw aesthetic and uniqueness. Aslo, this group
emphasises on innovation and forward thinking.

While being the environment, choosing to buy


conscious collections it also means that it
comes at financial cost. The consumers are
willing to pay for- fair labor, safe workspace,
artisans, crafts, organic, and regenerated
materials, local and small batch production
because they understand that the brand
priorities the dignity and the safety of
garment workers and their communities, and
the long term sustainability of the planet,
above the ability of consumers to wear
something new and hyper-trendy every time
they post on instagram or go out to a party
MARKET SEGMENTATION

Involves Grouping into


various customers
segments that have
common needs .

E -
1 GROUP BUYS DURING SALE , OTHERS ARE REGULAR .

Segmenting Your market includes -

characteristics of customer ( Age culture etc )


Demographics Gender
-

. .

Psycho graphics Group lifestyle ( social class altitude )


customer
personality
-

, , .

Behaviour -
( online shopper .
Brand Preference , Prior Purchase ) .

Geography
-

( continent ,
country ,
state ,
city or rural )

TARGETING
No will suit
one
strategy all consumers
groups ,

so
being able to develop specific strategies for
your target market is

very important
3 General
strategies
Undiferentiated individual
Targeting views market as one with
-

group no

Price instead of 400-1


segment eg •

tag -399
-
.
.
.

BOGO offer
Buy Get
• -
one one -

focuses selecting a particular market niche


concentrated
Targeting on
-

for
marketing efforts are targeted Beneficial
on which ( .

Small firms )
Brands like Anokhi Fab India
.

Cg , .

Multi
Segment Targeting focus defined market & develop
on 2 more well
segments
-

or

Beneficial
different market strategies . but can be
costly
from
as it involves
greater input management .

Amar Ket A promotional


research .
strategies .

Prior to
selecting a particular targeting strategy
you should perform a cost benefit analysis btw

which suits better


all available
strategies
-

POSITIONING
Product
Developing a and Brand
image in the

minds
of consumers .
It also includes
improving a

customer 's perception about experience if purchase


the
they
your product / service .

Effective
Positioning involves
good understanding of
competing
and the benefits that
product are
sought by your target
market .
It also requires you to
identify a differential advantage
with which it will deliver the required benefits to the market

effectively against the competition .


V. A. 1.5 .
MODEL
VALUES AND LIFESTYLE

A
system for grouping consumers according
to
psychological and sociological theories in order
to predict their behaviour in the
purchase
decision process .

3 main
categories
-

Need -
direct -
consumers
-

Purchase based on needs


-

Outer -
direct -

consumers
-

Purchase based on perceptions


of the others view them
way
.

Inner - direct -
consumers
-
Purchase out of some inner needs .

WHY DO A SURVEY ?

from

Uniqueness -

Gather info not available

other sources .
( 1° research )
of
Probability sampling unbiased representation
-

Population of interest .

Standardization of measurement -
same info ~

collected from
every respondent
Analysis needs -

use
survey data
to
compliment
data from 2° sources
existing .
trends

~ → Preference of the time in context to Product . Y

events
lifestyle etc
MACRO MICRO
.
.

→ Trickle up -
trends that are established on the
(5- 10 Yrs
)
.
(3 -5 Yrs . )
streets lower strata of
or the
society a move

up
-
☐ 14 etc .

→ Trickle down trend coined


by the Design Houses

market
which are
eventually captured by the lower

segment like RTW etc

Y
y
CAPTURE A LARGER MASS OF PEOPLE

AND IS THERE FOR A LONG TIME .


Trends that disappear in shorter

Polka dots LBD , Puff TRENDS period of time and attracts lesser
eg
-

number of people
chokers AW 20W
eg leather
- -

, ,

SSS Surface Silhouette


Style line
-

, ,
Ruffled tops ,

TREND SPOTTING AND TREND FORECASTING


TREND FORECASTING -
forecast future trends and Predict consumers behaviour .
It is

based solid research and combined


on
precise methodologies ,

with years of experience .

TREND SPOTTING IS
UNDERSTANDING THE NOW -

FORECASTING IS PREDICTING '


WHAT
'
COMES NEXT .

TREND SPOTTING TREND FORECASTING



Allows brand to what's •
considers broader cultural
copy the

shift

happening •
driving charge .

Requires immediate response looks ahead so brands can be prepared .

TREND FORECAST IN A ENCIES act as a medium


that forecasts and trends in advance
colour , of the

current season . Their teams look further into the future


via trend research trend result
consumer a spotting as a

they predict fabrics fashion trends


,
colour
ways A .
.

Rene Dere WGSN


eg etc
-

,
enwraps
TO WRAP AROUND CLOSELY
DIY
Scarf top
Information stored in text format
which can be read and reflected

upon Periodicals Journals boos


eg
-

,
.
,

(digital &
hardcopy ) .

Textual format
\ Text written in medium
any
-
on

Self
explanatory
-

focused info on a
particular
topic

Info represented through


bar graphs , pie charts

color
(Sss
theory
Surface
Sss
Silhouette)
Visual format
Style
-

, ,

usual is less personal ,

character , part player


is a rare chance .
One can
identify the timeline

Mood board
mood board can be

representing one
aspect
on at the same time
many
Asthetic eg thetic Story Boarding etc
Project
As
vibe of the
- .

representation
of the theme

elements of the Project communicating the feel


-

silhouettes , theme and


representing one's
idea

visual of
representation
the related keywords

☒q

Artistic
visuals impression
Final
,
,

colour story for


.

collection design
the
Balance ,
process .

Flow , SSS
imma '¥- E. fan I ☒ Imm ¥# É
' '
, **
COMPOSITION

OBSESSION WITH POWER / POWER -

HUNGRY

-
bloodshed
MAHABHARAT
-
GRID -
ASSIGNMENT BRIEF

ASSIGNMENT 1

For this assignment we are expected to choose a


market segment from (Designer labels, Retail, Export
and craft) and carry out in depth research. We had to
find out about its existence in the market, functioning,
division, clientele and its economic relevance. We also
need to understand their design philosophy and
development for the chosen category. For this purpose
we could use secondary resources like books, journals,
research articles, websites and other social media to
collect the information and present in the process book.

ASSIGNMENT 2
For this assignment we are expected to compile the data collected
during assignment 1 and converge it using visual and textual
information. Along with this we are also supposed to write an
essay of 500 words compiling the information. The essay should
have in text referencing and citation. The document should also
be supported with the bibliography. This phase of assignment also
expects to compile the ongoing work in the form of process book.
hussein enneagon

Chalayan was born in Nicosia, Cyprus in 1970.Chalayan was


sent to a non-public college in Londonwhen he was twelve, and
later attended Central Saint Martin' college at the age of 19
to study fashion. Chalayan rose to fashion fame shortly once
he received his B.A. degree from Central Saint Martin' in 1993.

Hussein chalayan

In 1994, he established his own freelance style label and his own
company, Cartesia Ltd. In 1999 and 2000 he was name as British
Designer of the year. Although he voluntarily liquidated Cartestia Ltd.
In 2002 he launched a men’s line- a more cost-effective secondary line,
Chalayan by Hussein Chalayan, in 2004; and a women’s line in 2005.
later, he was awarded a Member of the Order of British Empire. In
2012, Chalayan launched a diffusion line known as Chalayan grey Label
at London Fashion Week.

Chalayan control numerous


appointments at variety of
brands, together with TSE,
Puma, and Vionnet, Chalayan
was additionally the head of
fashion at the University of
Applied Arts Vienna from a
pair of014 to 2019. Later he
was named a Member of the
Order of British Empire (MBE)
for his contributions to the
fashion industry.

Fall 2020 Fall 2020


Menswear ready-to-wear
In 2015 he opened his initial flagship
store in London. Chalayan isn't standard
brand or commercialism basic clothes.
they're concerning various luxury, not
mass-market appeal. Chalayan' store is
found at 2 bourdon Street in London'
Mayfair district and is predicated on the
idea of a "shop inside a shop". for him
London is the foremost necessary
metropole within the world, where he
grew up and to that he owes his
development as a designer.

Hussein
chalayan’s
first shop in
london

The area, designed in partnership with Zoe Smith of ZCD Architects, is delicate
nevertheless arresting. The straightforward black rails make sure the garments
are the focal point, yet the geometric lines produce an optical phenomenon that
may only really be experienced in person. A dark wood boat-shaped counter sits
within the middle of the space, providing a surface for presenting more clothes
and accessories moreover as hidden storage inside. The boat may also be
reconfigured into a board that can seat up to twelve people, referencing the
theme of transformation typically found in Chalayan' collections. The space was
designed not even as a retail surroundings however additionally a happening
area for shows, talks and performances. The London store is simply the
beginning. Their arrange is to open additional stores worldwide, with new york
initial within the list and Tokyo.
His graduating collection titled “The Tangent
Flows,” consisted of silk dresses that he had
buried in his garden and dug up again, was
:

bought by British iconic boutique Browns in its


entirety. The rituals of burial and resurrection
gave the clothes a dimension of regard to life,
death, and concrete decay in an exceedingly
method that transported the clothes from the
The tangent flow planet of fashion to the dominion of nature.
1993

Chalayan closed his SS98 show with six


models wearing chadors of variable lengths
– from totally clothed to entirely nude.
meant as a press release on the oppression
of Muslim women, Chalayan cited his Turkish
Cypriot heritage as inspiration. “It wasn’t
really supposed to be offensive,” he said
back in 1998. “It was supposed to illustrate
a particular kind of position.

Ss98- Between

Chalayan’s Spring/Summer 2000 assortment began with


models in simple, meticulously cut dresses against a
stark white backdrop. however by the end of the show
the plane dress. initially associate degree architectural,
Balenciaga-style structure of fiberglass and organic
Ss00- airplane wing
compound that is remote controlled. triggering it to fold
into a couture gown
up sort of a maturation flower and reveal a mass of
powder pink tulle beneath the airplane wing shell.
At the end of Chalayan’s AW00 show, a model stepped
into what was apparently a coffee table made of
mahogany. as the audience watched, however, this
piece of furnishings remodeled like a telescope into a
dress. however the designer is keen to emphasise
that he's not a showman.

Aw00-Before
minus now

In 2007, Chalayan unveiled a series of dresses that were


transformative in an exceedingly completely different
way. Wired with hidden mechanisms, these clothes
morphed from one design into another – again, in front
of a live audience. “I like technology because it’s the
only factor that allows you to do new things,” he says.

Ss07-One hundred
and eleven
Another example of Chalayan’s love
of incorporating technology into his
styles was his AW07 show that
featured his notorious video dresses.
every of those dresses were fitted
with 15,000 LEDs embedded into the
material that resembled a pixelated
screen. These screens portrayed
cityscapes as seen from Google
Earth.
Aw07-
Airborne
Ss08-Readings
after LEDs, Chalayan turned to lasers. For SS08, the designer collaborated with Nick
Knight’s SHOWstudio on a fashion film within which models wore dresses embellished
with Swarovski crystals which emitted lasers. “This represents the interplay between
a scrutinised figure and the audience which keep that interplay alive,” he said.
Rihanna in
Hussein chalayan
Katy
Perry in
Hussein
chalayan
Marion S/S10
Coltillard in Celebrities in
Hussein Hussein Chalayan
chalayan S/
S 15

Rihanna in Hussein
chalayan A/W11

Lady gaga at grammys Ana


in Hussein chalayan Matronic
in
Hussein
chalayan

Natalie Dormer in
Hussein chalayan
A/W 12
collaboration

Puma x Chalayan A/W-11-Urban Mobility

This season, puma by Hussein Chalayan takes inspiration from


camera mechanics. travel is ever at the collection’s core, but it
is refocused with photographic geometry, light, and overlays.
the apparel silhouettes are transformed with masculine linear
angles, feminine necklines, and twisted drapes. hybrid shoes
fuse old and new to create something fresh with a sense of
familiarity. it’s a collection reconfigured for a life lived with
deliberate speed yet stops just long enough to take in those
moments that best define life itself. several pieces of this
collection are grouped under the banner ‘urban swift’...
‘Innovative and conceptual, the urban swift is a style inspired
directly from Hussein Chalayan’s spring summer 2009 mainline
collection ‘inerltia’

Puma x Chalayan S/S 12

This collection combines his vision of form and function with


sportswear elements. Inspiration was taken from sport, kites, and
sailing, and how their industrial details and dynamics can transform
traditional tailoring. Asymmetrical yet structured silhouettes were
combined with sporty details in line such as mesh panels, elastic
drawstrings, lightweight nylon and Tyvek, a papery synthetic
material etc. the final touch was the use of kabuki color, inspired
by the theatrics and movement of Japanese dance. mandarin reds,
grey violets, and rusts take the collection to a distinct height, the
footwear design was distinct, clean, and methodical, capturing the
interplay of sport, motion, and speed through lightweight materials
and simple yet supportive constructions. Chalayan’s Urban Mobility
collection was definitely in the lower end of the price range.
Chalayan and Puma balance style with practicality and comfort
NIO x Chalayan

Chinese electric car company Nio has launched its debut clothes
collection in collaboration with experimental fashion designer
Hussein Chalayan. The limited-edition capsule collection, called Neo
Extreme, contains 18 pieces including hoodies, polo shirts, t-shirts
and dresses. Each is inspired by the company's Nio EP9 car, which
is the world's fastest electric car. Victoria’s Secret model Bruna
Lírio stole the show in “shell,” a 3D-printed concept piece. The
sides of the piece sport an outer shell made of a sturdy material,
both balancing and amplifying the drape of the inner skirt. The
piece explores the contrasts of hard and soft textures, form and
structure, strength of character and flexibility of consciousness,
as well as the balance between technology and humanism.

Intel X Hussein Chalayan – S/S 2017- Paris Fashion week

Chalayan's SS17 collection and runway show


featured connected, wearable accessories
powered by Intel technology, including never-
before-seen glasses and belts.
Designed to improve awareness and pro-
active management of stress levels, the
accessories demonstrate another way of how
fashion and technology can come together in
the midst of the current trend for health
trackers and wearables

Off-shoulder SURFACE,

Layering SILHOUETTE &
STYLE LINE
-

Asymmetrical


Dropped shoulders

Textured srface

Flowy
us

Baggy

a
1. Comfortable

Well-fitted

Loose ballon
pants

Broad collar
Leather pockets Asymmetrical neckline

÷
Loose fit
Dropped shoulders
Structured I
.

Colour pop belt Flowy

Wide belt Drawstring

Colour blocking

Asymmetrical hemline
step

SEGMENTATION

Chalayan is a high-end designer brand, thus its target customers


thus its target customers more approach those people who have
personality and especially like fashion. Its customer age range is
from 20-50 years old. Brands innovative designs attract the
young and fashionable customer, whilst its graceful is liked by
senior customers as well. Chalayan offers products to all
genders, their campaign mainly targets women through using
female models and extensive advertising for women collection.
The majority of their consumers mostly reside in main capital
cities. The brand target those who are fashion conscious and
favour quality over quantity, as well as their own and other
people’s opinions of themselves. Innovative brands such as
Chalayan attracts customers who appreciate an in-store
experience.

TARGETING

The popularity of social media


and rise of elite young adults
in the spotlight introduces an
opportunity for brands to
communicate to new markets.
Communicating to the emerging
markets like China, India,
Tokyo, New York, London and
Hong Kong expected to have a
global growth by 2025, can be
done through targeted
marketing.
POSITIONING

High price

Chanel Hussein Chalayan

Valentino Saint Laurent

Prada
Alexander McQueen

D&G

Elegant classic Edgy modern

Zara

H&M Top shop

Low price
essay
CHALA YAN

Hussein Chalayan is known as a fashion big thinker; he's one amongst


the foremost experimental and innovative designers. His clothes portray
his fascination with architecture, aeromechanics and concrete identity.
Chalayan was born in Cyprus in 1970. By the time he was 8, he joined
his father in London. He came back to Cyprus to check A-level
examinations. Later he attended central Saint Martin’s school to study
fashion once he was 19. His desire to pursue a career in fashion came
naturally, “My attraction to fashion was very instinctive, and had to do
with my excitement about anything to do with the body and the
female form, which to me represents power and magic,” he told the
financial Times in 2009. “its’s the ultimate symbol. ”

Chalayan’s graduation assortment


“the tangent flows” was the
series of buried clothes that
were exhumed before the show.
influential London store Browns
bought the whole collection for
window display. The genius of
Chalayan’s work lies in his ability
to explore visual. For him all
garments are externalizations of
the body within the same
manner that vehicles and
buildings are proportioned to
contain the human form. "I
think of modular systems where
clothes are like small parts of
an interior, the interiors are
part of architecture, which is
then a part of an urban
environment. i think of fluid area
where they're all a part of each
other, just in different scales
and proportions" he said.
A number of his most experimental styles includes frock coats that build
themselves(A/W07), cocktail table that converts into skirts(A/W00), plane
wing into dressmaking robe (S/S00), envelope dress (S/S01), laser beam
dress with Swarovski crystals, and plenty of additional. Chalayan calls his
experimental appearance his “showpieces” and asserts there's more to his
label than simply avant-garde. in 1994, he established his own freelance
style label and his own company, Cartesia Ltd. He was appointed as design
authority for new york knitwear label TSE in 1998, that lasted until 2001.
once this he faced a sustainable amount of economic problem and was
forced into liquidation.

He made his fashion come back the same year, through a brand new
licensing deal with Italian manufacturer, Gibo. Chalayan was devasted after
knowing, Tom Ford- then inventive director of Gucci and YSl chose to work
with stella mccartney and Alexander McQueen instead of him. In June
2006, he was awarded a member of the order of British Empire for his
contribution to the fashion industry. Later he launched a diffusion line,
named gray label, within the bid to focus on new customer. He additionally
launched his 1st ever book in july 2011. Chalayan’s work has been worn
by the industry’s boldest dressers-from Bjork to lady gaga to Rihanna,
Natalie dormer, Sophie Turner and plenty of more. whereas Chalayan' work
continues to question traditional readings of dress and to come up with
exciting knowledge domain collaborations, he also opens new frontiers for
alternative designers to explore. As many of his ground-breaking concepts
begin to influence wider trends, Chalayan' work is gaining recognition
within the mainstream fashion market whereas continued to receive
acclaim in fashion circles
HARVARD REFERENCES
designboom | architecture & design magazine. 2021. hussein chalayan x puma: a/w 2011 and s/s
2012. [online] Available at: <https://www.designboom.com/design/hussein-chalayan-x-puma-
aw-2011- and-ss-2012/> [Accessed 30 September 2021].
Leitch, L., 2021. Chalayan Fall 2020 Menswear Collection. [online] Vogue. Available at: <https://
www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/chalayan> [Accessed 30 September 2021].
Leitch, L., 2021. Chalayan Spring 2020 Menswear Collection. [online] Vogue. Available at: <https://
www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/chalayan> [Accessed 30 September 2021].
Forbes. 2021. Lady Gaga in Hussein Chalayan. [online] Available at: <https://www.forbes.com/
pictures/ehlm45felm/lady-gaga-in-hussein-chalayan/?sh=2681ed983884> [Accessed 30 September
2021].
Waldemeyer.com. 2021. Hussein Chalayan – Readings – laser dresses – Moritz Waldemeyer. [online]
Available at: <http://www.waldemeyer.com/hussein-chalayan-readings-laser-dresses> [Accessed 30
September 2021].
Moore, Z., 2021. Designed in Hackney: laser dresses by Hussein Chalayan for Swarovski | Dezeen.
[online] Dezeen. Available at: <https://www.dezeen.com/2012/05/18/designed-in-hackney-laser-
dresses-by-hussein-chalayan-for-swarovski/> [Accessed 30 September 2021].
Dazed. 2021. Inner Space: Hussein Chalayan. [online] Available at: <https://www.dazeddigital.com/
fashion/article/16705/1/inner-space-hussein-chalayan> [Accessed 30 September 2021].
Howarth, D., 2021. Hussein Chalayan's first shop opens in London's Mayfair. [online] Dezeen.
Available at: <https://www.dezeen.com/2015/09/17/zcd-architects-hussein-chalayan-retail-shop-
mayfair-london/> [Accessed 30 September 2021].
Dazed. 2021. Hussein Chalayan’s most mind-blowing fashion moments. [online] Available at: <https://
www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/26284/1/the-most-iconic-moments-of-hussein-chalayan- s-
career> [Accessed 30 September 2021].
Lifestyle Asia Singapore. 2021. Hussein Chalayan's most provocative fashion moments. [online]
Available at: <https://www.lifestyleasia.com/sg/style/fashion/5-iconic-times-hussein-chalayan-
fashion- shows/> [Accessed 30 September 2021].
Hall, J., Hall, J. and profile, V., 2021. HUSSEIN CHALAYAN. [online] Stylejourno.blogspot.com.
Available at: <http://stylejourno.blogspot.com/2013/06/hussein-chalayan.html> [Accessed 30
September 2021].
Lifestyle Asia Singapore. 2021. Hussein Chalayan's most provocative fashion moments. [online]
Available at: <https://www.lifestyleasia.com/sg/style/fashion/5-iconic-times-hussein-chalayan-
fashion- shows/> [Accessed 30 September 2021].
Encyclopedia Britannica. 2021. Hussein Chalayan | Biography, Dissolving Dress, Table Dress, Fashion,
& Facts. [online] Available at: <https://www.britannica.com/biography/Hussein-Chalayan> [Accessed
30 September 2021].
Nytimes.com. 2021. Hussein Chalayan Celebrates 25 Years (Published 2019). [online] Available at:
<https://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2019/02/16/fashion/hussein-chalayan-celebrates-25- years/s/
15HUSSEINCHALAYAN-shows-slide-PDFG.html?interstitial=true&prev=3&next=4&src=3> [Accessed
30 September 2021].
Xcommons.com. 2021. NIO X Chalayan :: XCOMMONS. [online] Available at: <https://
www.xcommons.com/projects/project.php?p=nioxchalayan> [Accessed 30 September 2021]. Arthur,
R., 2021. Intel Brings Wearable Technology To Hussein Chalayan's Paris Fashion Week Show. [online]
Forbes. Available at: <https://www.forbes.com/sites/rachelarthur/2016/09/30/intel- brings-
wearable-technology-to-hussein-chalayans-paris-fashion-week-show/?sh=6a73e0771b7c> [Accessed
30 September 2021].
futuristic
experimental
1 Solution
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innovative

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Technology
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the
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extraordinary chairman convertible

architect
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PANTONE
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menswear

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V

Informal wear formal wear Semi-formal casual wear


Business wear / •
Formal / Occasion
Office wear wear
Wedding
-

in Britain
originated

as funerals ,
festivals ,

a leisurewear ( Heavy .

balls etc .
,

frock coat ) dress


morning
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standard fabric
daytime
• -

White

tip
.

combed wool Cashmere


evening wear
. .
.

wool blend
polyester . •

morning dress →
Business suit
/ Sack suit

morning watt
& 4- Fusion
3
Styles style

waistcoat + Striped
(a) English suits trousers .

→ Touch fit formal


Evening
• -

→ Padded Shoulder Trousers Cuncuffed) -1 & 7

→ Thin ,
notch or Peak Lapel Plain Stiff -
Front shirt -1 bowtie +

→ Tapered sides
→ flap Pockets
→ Dual vents

(b) Italian suits



Tapered , Thin ( waist)
→ Padded shoulder
→ wide ,
notch lapel

no flap Pockets
→ no vents

(c) American suits


→ loose / Natural fit /
Slightly tapered White pique wat cwaist
.

Had coat)
Light Shoulder
→ in + tailcoat -1 cufflinks

notch Peak Lape Detachable


→ or +
wing collar

Flap / Slash Poche
-

→ central vents
Semi-formal -

Between Informal ( lounge suit ) and formal .

Black Tie -

( Evening wear )

British
english
-
Dinner suit / Jacket
American
english Tuxedo or Tux
-

Colours Black blue ,


midnight

-

,
or white
3
piece suit

2 or

satin or
grosgrain lapels

White shirt turndown collar


standing on
• -


Black bow tie .

waistcoat cummerbund
evening

or


Bowler on Boater hat

Black lounge suit


-

( Day wear )
(u K ) -

stroller cus )

Stresemann ( continental Europe)

Grey striped checked formal



or

trousers

single double breasted



or

Black
midnight blue Grey

. ,

lounge Jacket


necktie 1 Bowtie

waistcoat French dress shirt
.

cuff

CASUAL WEAR -

leisurewear

casual
western dress code
4.
sporty
cotton pants ,
short .
jeans .
polo shirt ,

Relaxed occasional spontaneous everyday sweatshirt tennis shoes ek


-

, . , .
.

Material -
denim ,
cotton ,
jersey .
flannel . 5 .

Dressy casual

Fleece .

Dress trousers ,
turtleneck , dress shirt .

silk sport shirt .


tie .
jacket or sport coat .

Men -
Jeans ,
dress shirt ( turn down collar) .
G. Business casual
T shirt sleeveless shirt Three
categories
-
,

a. Power Business
casual
Types of wear b. General Business
-

c. Business casual
1- Active Casual A
comfortable weaned version
of classic
wind suit shorts
Jogging suit
running etc business attire with no
sacrifice of
.

, , ,
.

2-
Rugged casual
professionalism or
personal power .

Garments from the typical apparel of the more


outdoorsy sports like hunting fishing rock climbing ek , , .

3- Smart casual
Trousers ,
long sleeves shirt ,
tie , tipped belt .eu .
0

in


Dark colours (
Navy / Charcoal)
Smooth and
shiny texture

0 sina.ee Pattern

Structured silhouette

fabrics

Lighter
• 2- 3 buttons

Jetted Pockets

Peak lapel
/

Tautz Lapel

no vents

Sharp pants

crease


Pleated pants

Double Breasted .

casuals

Brighter

colour


visible weave texture

Bolder Patterns

0
Heavy fabric


4-5 Buttons


Flap / Patch Pocket
• Notch Lapel / Knize Lapel

central vents
• no -
crease trousers


no pleated pants
• cuffs

pockets

more
RANGEDEVELOPMENT
RANGE DEVELOPMENT
AND
AND
EXPLORATION
EXPLORATION

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