09-08-2020

ASFT

Fundamentals of Textiles-V
TEXT-318

Module-I
Topic 3

The Examples of preparation processes of

ASFT
cotton and its blends fabrics
100% Cotton fabrics
1. Singeing
2. Desizing (only for woven fabrics)
3. Scouring
4. Bleaching (only for pale or bright shades)
5. Mercerizing
6. Adding of Optical Brightening Agent
2

1
 09-08-2020

ASFT
Scouring
The term ‘scouring’ applies to the removal of impurities such as
oils, was, gums, soluble impurities and sold dirt commonly found
in textile material and produce a hydrophilic and clean cloth.

Objectives
• 1. To remove natural fat, wax, and oil materials containing in
the fabrics without damaging the fibers
• 2. To accelerate dye and chemical absorption of the fabrics
• 3. To improve the handle of the goods (softer).
• To leave the fabric in a highly hydrophilic condition without
undergoing chemical or physical damage significantly.

ASFT

Scouring Process of cotton

• Cellulose material is treated with a solution containing alkali (
soda ash and caustic soda), an anionic and/or nonionic
detergent, a wetting agent, sequestering for the removal of
metal ions dispersing agents, at high temperature.
• The scouring operation was conventionally done in
kiermachines and hence the process was called kier boiling, but
now a days the scouring is done mostly in the dyeing machines
itself as a part of combined or single operation such as scouring
and bleaching.

2
 09-08-2020

ASFT

Scouring process depends on:

• The type of cotton
• The color of cotton
• The cleanliness of cotton
• The twist and count of the yarn
• The construction of the fabric
http://textilefashionstudy.com/scouring-definition-objectives-effects-and-
methods-of-scouring/

ASFT

Scouring of Silk
The scouring of pure silk is a degumming process used to remove sericin
(silk gum) from fibroin floss. Sericin is the gummy element which keeps
together the fibroin floss and gives the silk a hard hand and dull
appearance. It is carried out on yarn, on dyed yarn, piece-dyed fabric or on
products ready for printing. The treatment, which causes a loss of weight
ranging between 24 and 28%, gives the degummed silk a lustrous
appearance and a soft hand; the treatment is carried out with soapy
solutions or with buffer dissolving agents. It is also possible to use enzymes
(protease), which hydrolyses sericin.

Scouring of wool
On wool, the scouring process removes oils and contaminants accumulated
during upstream processing steps and can be carried out on slivers, yarns
and fabrics with solutions containing sodium carbonate with soap or
ammonia, or anionic and non-ionic surfactants, which carry out asofter
washing to avoid any damage to the fibers.

3
 09-08-2020

ASFT

Scouring of Synthetics

The scouring process applied to synthetic fibres removes oils, lubricants

and anti-static substances, dust, contaminants and can be carried out on
yarns and fabrics (when warp yarnshave been bonded, the treatment is
called debonding). It is carried out by means of surfactants,detergents
and emulsifying agents.

Bleaching Process ASFT

After the removal of the waxes and other hydrophobic type of impurities from
grey fabric by the desizing and scouring the fabric is now in a more absorbent
state. But still have the pale appearance due to the presence of natural
coloring material like pigment etc, these pigment cannot be removed the only
way to tackle these pigment is to decolourise them using suitable oxidizing
agents. This will make the fabric in a super white form. This process of
decolouration of natural pigments is called the bleaching.
The process is to make the goods whiter than before. This will help the
goods to absorb more dyes and chemical and also make the dye on the goods
brighter.
8

4
 09-08-2020

Objectives of Bleaching ASFT

• To decolorize the natural coloring matter in the cotton.

• To decolorize the natural coloring matter in the cotton
using bleaching agents using bleaching agents.
• To facilitate the textile material( yarn/fabric ) ready
for dyeing and printing
• A bleach is a chemical that removes colors or whitens,
is a chemical that removes colors or whitens, often via
oxidation or reduction often via oxidation or reduction
• Many bleaches have strong bactericidal properties,
and are used for disinfecting and sterilizing.

ASFT

10

5
 09-08-2020

Bleaching agents ASFT

11

Oxidative bleaching ASFT

• The Oxidative bleaching agents are used

much more than Reductive bleaching agents .
• The bleaching agent is a chemical reagent
which decomposes in alkali solution and
produce active oxygen.
• The active oxygen is in fact the intrinsic
bleaching agent as it will further destroy
partly or completely the coloring matter
present in the textile material.

12

6
 09-08-2020

Reductive Bleaching ASFT

• Many colouring matter can be reduced to

colourless compound by reducing agents.
• Before the invention of hydrogen
peroxide, sulphur dioxide was the only
bleaching agent for wool.
• Fibers like polyamide, polyacrylics and
polyacetates can be bleached using
reductive bleaching technology.

13

Majority of Chemicals used in ASFT

Bleaching Textiles
• Sodium Hypochlorite
• Hydrogen Peroxide
• Sodium Chlorite
• Other bleaching agents, of lesser
importance to textile preparation but
important in consumer laundry products,
are perborates, percarbonates and
peracetic acid

14

7
 09-08-2020

ASFT

Mercerizing Process
• The is to make the cotton goods more
luster than before using sodium
hydroxide solution in cold condition
and tension. This will lead the cotton
fibers to be swollen and increased
strength. Also this will improve dye
absorption of the fibers.

15

15

ASFT
Objectives
1. To make the goods more luster because raw
cotton fibers are ribbon-like. After this
process, the fibers change to cylindrical shape
resulting more evenness reflected light from
the goods.

Before After
2. To improve dyeability of the goods about 5-
10%.
16

16

8
 09-08-2020

ASFT

Adding Optical Brightening Agent

The process is to add special dyestuff into
textile or paper to make them brighter when
looking at black-light light bulb or natural
sunlight. As the dyestuffs are colorless but
using UV light to excite these dyes. They will
reflect the light at the wavelength that human
can see (i.e. blue, violet). So the goods look
brighter and whiter.

-----------------------

17

17

ASFT

• https://www.slideshare.net/rohitsingh10
76/3-bleaching-process-ppt
• https://www.slideshare.net/aelya/bleac
hing-textile-treatment-35250805
• https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011
/03/textile-bleaching-process_5937.html

18

9
 09-08-2020

ASFT

19

10