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Yarn Twist

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TTQC 1

Lecturer, TE Dept of BUFT

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Yarn twist

Yarn Twist

According to Textile Institute, “Twist is the spiral disposition of the components of a thread
which is usually the result of relative rotation of the two ends.”

According to Skinkle, “Twist is the measure of the spiral turns given to a yarn in order to
hold the constituent fibers or threads together.”

The spiral distribution of the components of a thread which is usually the result of relative
rotation of the two ends.

Objects of Twist:

 To hold the staple fibers together.

 To improve dynamometric properties (tenacity, elongation, modulus of elasticity) and
regularity.
 To improve abrasion and wear resistance.
 To modify structural properties affecting tactile characteristics (touch) and appearance
(crêpe effect, covering power, lustre).
 To reduce the tendency of textured yarns to rotate on their own axis and to form loops

Twist direction:
The direction of twist is indicated by the use of the letters ‘S’ and ‘Z’ in accordance with the
following convention:

I) S twist:
When a yarn is twisted in an anticlockwise direction, the fibers from a helical angle at the yarn
surface. This angle conforms to the middle part of the letter “S” and, therefore, is referred to as
“S” twist ((Sometimes referred to as left-hand twist). Ring spun yarn (not open end yarn) can be
produce with “S” twist.

II) Z-twist:
When a yarn is twisted in a clockwise direction, the fibers from a helical angle at the yarn
surface. This angle conforms to the middle part of the letter “Z” and, therefore, is referred to as
“Z” twist (Sometimes referred to as right-hand twist). Open end and ring spun yarn can be
produce with “Z” twist. Z -twist is more common for weaving yarns.

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Twist Level / Amount of Twist:
 
The twist level (degree of twist) in a yarn is the number of turns of twist per unit length.
Generally, filaments need a twist of 3-6 TPI while staples require a higher TPI of 10-20. The
amount of twist varies with fiber length, yarn size, and its intended use

Number of Turns
Amount of twist = Unit Length

Amount of twist expressed in:

Twist Per Inch (TPI)
Twist Per Meter (TPM)
Twist Per Centimeter (TPCm)
Amount of twist determination
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 Let, Yarn diameter be D inches & let L lie the length of yarn occupied by one
complete turn of twist. Then,
πD
tan θ = & 1/L=Turns Per Inch (TPI)
L
tan θ ∞ D X TPI
we know, when the count system is an indirect, the yarn diameter is
proportional to the reciprocal of the square root of the count. Thus,
1
D∞
√Count
1
Therefore, tan θ ∞ X TPI
√Count
Or, TPI=k √ Count
The constant k is termed as the twist factor or twist
multipliers and is directly propotional to the tangent of the
twist angle.

Twist multiplier:

A coarse yarns with 20 TPI has vastly different twist characteristics to a fine yarn with 20 TPI.
By an expression known as the twist factor or twist multiplier.
Twist multiplier is an empirical parameter that has been establish by experiments and practice
that the maximum strength of a yarn is obtained for a definite value of K. It is directly
proportional to the tangent of the twist angle.

 
Where K is the twist factor, also known as Twist Multiplier(TM).

Relation Between Twist angle and Yarn count:

1. In indirect system, Twist Per Inch =Twist multiplier (TM) × √Count.

2. In Direct system, Twist Per Inch =Twist multiplier(TM)/√Count.

Example: For 40Ne Combed yarn, calculate the amount of TPI (TM=3.5 is used)
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We know,

Twist Per Inch (TPI)= Twist Multiplier (TM) x √Count

= 3.5 x √40

= 22.1359 (Ans.)

Effect of twist on Yarn Properties:

1. Unevenness of Yarn (U%): With the increases of amount of yarn twist the unevenness
of yarn also increases.

TPI U% CVm%
2. IPI
17 16.6 21.05
18 20.36 25.5
19 22.34 26.7
(Imperfection Index) of Yarn: As TPI value increases the IPI also increases.
IPI (Imperfection Index)= Thick Place (+50%)/km+Thin Place (-50%)/km+
Neps(+200%)/km

TPI Thick Thin- Neps IPI

+50%/km 50%/km +200%/km
17 460 184 83 727
18 1383 313 112 1808
19 1400 320 114 1834

3. Yarn Strength: With increasing of twist level or twist factor the strength also increases
up to a certain limit, rather then it loses its strength with the increase of twist. The graph
shows the circumstances clearly.

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 4. Hairiness of yarn: With the increases of twist the hairiness of yarn also reduces
significantly.

Effect of twist on fabric properties:

1. Shadow stripe effect: In a woven cloth the warp threads in alternate bands of S and Z
twist. A subdued strip effect is observed in the finished cloth due to the difference in the
way in the incident light is reflected from the two sets of yarns.

2. Twill line effect: The twill line in fabrics based on the twill weave can be subdued or
brought into greater prominence by choice of twist direction. Prominence of twill lines in
a fabric largely depends upon the direction of twist in warp and weft yarns. (Example: If
the warp of a twill has Z twist and twill line runs ‘down to the left’, then the use of an S-
way weft subdues the twill line. Conversely, the use of a Z-way weft will produce a
bolder twill line)

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 3. Crepe surface and curl formation: Highly twisted yarns tend to twist upon them and
produce snarls and crepe yarns used to obtain the characteristics crepe surface. After
given a wet treatment of woven cloth, drying is done without tension, then crepe yarn
tends to curl up and relax, shrinkage occurs and the well known crepe surface is
produced.
4. Fancy fabric product: Twisted yarn always tends to be untwisted. If highly twisted yarn
is loosen, yarn itself become untwist. This property is called snarls. By using this
property fancy fabric is prepared.
5. Other properties: Twisting in yarns help to form absorbent, stiffs, handling, air
permeability and well heat conductor fabrics. It increases tensile strength of fabric.
Importance of Twist:

1. The shape of yarn become round dye to twist.

2. Increase tensile properties of yarn due to twist.
3. The more twist is increased still the const value, the yarn become so strength.
4. The inter-cohesion affinity of fibers increases due to twist and do not open the fibers
easily.

Measurement/Determination of yarn twist:

 Single untwist method
 Fiber straightened method
 Single twist-untwist method
 Double twist untwist method
 Multiple twist untwist method

Twist measurement of piled yarns:

 Ordinary twist tester
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  Take up twist tester
 The quadrant twist tester

Ordinary twist tester (fiber straightened method):

Construction:
1. In this method, an ordinary twist tester is used by which the twist of 1 yarn can be
determined.
2. This instrument has two jaws between which 1 yarn is set.
3. It has a revolution counter which counts the number of untwisting turns of the yarns.
4. For counting the no of turns required for the yarns untwisting there is a revolution
counter in the instrument.
5. Again a lens is used to watch the number of revolution accurately.

Figure: Ordinary Twist Tester

Procedure:

1. At first the yarn is set between two jaws.

2. Then a weight is hung at one end of the yarn for a fixed tension.
3. The yarn is led through the fixed jaw, over a guide pulley.
4. After closing the fixed jaw the turns are removed by rotating the handle in the
appropriate direction.

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5. The end point may be judged by eye with the help of a small lens, but greater precision
can be obtained by the use of a dissecting needle.
6. When most of the twist is removed, the needle is pushed through the fibers close to the
fixed jaw and gently moved towards the rotating jaw.
7. Any residual twist turns up to the latter and removed by a final adjustment.
8. The no of turns removed is read from the revolution counter and recorded.
9. From the results of fifty tests the mean and the co-efficient of variation are then
calculated.

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