DRILL PRESS AND DRILLING MACHINES

Drill press, also called Drilling Machine, device for producing holes in hard substances. The drill
is held in a rotating spindle and is fed into the work piece, which is usually clamped in a vise resting
on a table. The drill may be gripped in a chuck with three jaws that move radially in unison, or it
may have a tapered shank that fits into a tapered hole in the spindle. Means are always provided for
varying the spindle speed and on some machines for automatically feeding the drill into the work
piece.
Types of Drilling Machine
Portable Drilling Machine
The portable drilling machines are used to drill small holes and are commonly
used in the entire workshop. This type of drill machine is operated by holding
in a hand and the workpiece where the hole is to be drilled is held in a vice.

Figure 1. Portable Drilling Machine

Sensitive Drilling Machine

The table and spindle speed and feed mechanism can be moved vertically on the
column for machining small and medium-size workpieces. Sensitive drilling
machines are available in floor and table type; it can enable the operator to
sensitively feel the pressure required for drilling and effectively adjust the applied
pressure.

Figure 2. Sensitive Drilling Machine

Upright Drilling Machine

This type of machine is used for drilling medium and large size holes which are
larger in size and stronger compared with the sensitive drilling machine. There are
differences between two types of upright drilling machines based on the type of
column used including round column and box column.

Figure 3. Upright Drilling Machine

Radial Drilling Machine

It is suitable for processing large, heavy and porous workpieces, and is widely
used in machinery manufacturing.

Figure 4. Radial Drilling Machine

Gang Drilling Machine

The gang drilling machine can drill the same or different sizes of holes at the same
time or different time due to it has a number of drill heads placed together. So the
specialty of this machine tool is that it can drill a huge number of holes all in the
same efficient job.

Figure 5. Gang Drilling Machine

Multiple Spindle Drilling Machine

This type of machine tool is similar to the gang drilling machine, which can
also drill the many holes at one time, but all the holes are in the same
workpieces and numbers of similar jobs.

Figure 6. Multiple Spindle Drilling Machine

Deep Hole Drilling Machine

A specialized machine tool that uses for deep hole drillings such as the deep
holes of barrels and machine tool spindles. It is generally being a horizontal
way to facilitate a large body and it is often with coolant inside.

Figure 7. Deep Hole Drilling Machine

DRILLING MACHINE PARTS

Figure 8. Parts of Drilling Machine

Base
• it carries the entire weight of the machine, and transfer the weight to the ground.
• generally made of cast iron or steel, and it is very rigid.

Column or Pillar
• In general, we use radial column so that the movement of the arm is possible in a clockwise
or anti-clockwise direction.
Arm
• Upper arm,carries the drill head and also the house of the driving mechanism

Worktable
• T-slots are provided at the top surface of the table may be in some table there is a vice which
also helps to hold the job.
Drill head
• a drill head is consist of various feed and driving mechanism. A drill chuck is mounted over
it.
• A drill head can slide up and down as per the requirement of the job.
• A V-types belt is provided to transfer the power from the motor to the pulley and from
pulley, the mechanical power is transferred to the drill head
Spindle
• It is a circular taper shaft which helps to hold the drill chuck
• There is a keyhole provided on the spindle to change the drill chuck.·
Chuck
• The chuck is mounted on the lower end of the spindle, it holds the drill jig.
• Here also a keyhole is provided to change the drill jigs
Electric Motor
• In a drilling machine, we use a single-phase ac motor. Which can run at an rpm of 600-5000,
or maybe more for high duty drilling machine.
Pully or Gears
• used to transmit power and also for getting different speed. In a drilling machine, we
use bevel gear to transmit power at an angle of 90 degrees.
 STANDARD OPERATIONS WHICH CAN BE PERFORMED ON A DRILL PRESS

Drilling
• Drilling is the operation of producing a cylindrical hole of required
diameter and depth by removing metal by the rotating edge of a
cutting tool called drill.
• Drilling is one of the simplest methods of producing a hole
• Drilling does not produce an accurate hole in a workpiece. The
internal surface of the hole generated by drilling becomes rough and
the hole is always slightly oversize due to vibration of the spindle and
the drill.
Figure 9. Drilling

Reaming
• Reaming is an accurate way of sizing and finishing a hole which has
been previously drilled by a multi point cutting tool known as reamer.
• When great accuracy is required, the holes are first drilled slightly
undersized and then reamed to size

Figure 10. Reaming

Boring
• Boring is the operation enlarging the diameter of the previously
made hole.
• To bore accurately, the setup must be rigid, machine must be
sturdy, and power feed must be used.

Figure 11. Boring

Counter Boring
• Counter boring is the operation of enlarging the end of the hole
cylindrically. The enlarged hole forms a square shoulder with the original
hole.
• This is necessary in some cases to accommodate the heads of bolts, studs
and pins. The tool used for counter boring is known as counter bore.
Figure 12. Counterboring

Countersinking
• Countersinking is the operation of making a cone shaped enlargement at
the end of the hole. The included angle of the conical surface may be in
the range of 60° to 90°. It is used to provide recess for a flat headed
screw or a counter sunk rivet fitted into the hole. The tool used for
counter sinking is known as a countersink. Figure 13. Countersinking

Spot facing
• Spot facing is the operation of smoothing off and squaring of a rough or
curved surface around a hole to permit level seating of washers, nuts, or
bolt heads.
• It is done to provide proper seating for a nut or the head of a screw. A
counter bore or a special spot facing tool may be employed for this
purpose.

Figure 14. Spot facing

Tapping
• Tapping is the operation of cutting internal threads by means of a cutting
tool called ‘tap’. Tapping in a drilling machine may be performed by hand or
by power. When the tap is screwed into the hole, it removes metal and cuts
internal threads which will fit into external threads of the same size

Figure 15. Tapping

Safety Precautions
• We should ensure that the work is held firmly and properly. Do not support the workplaces
by hand.
• Never make any adjustments while the machine is operating.
• Proper work speed, wheel speed and table feed should be selected according to the nature of
the work.
• Never clean away chips with your hand. Use a brush.
• The operator should not wear loose shirts and neck tie.
• Never place tools or equipment on the drilling tables
• Remove all chuck keys and wrenches before operating
Twist Drills

Figure 16. Twist Drills

A twist drill is a metal rod of a specific diameter that has two, three or four spiral flutes running
most of its length. Two-flute drills are for primary drilling, whereas three- and four-flute drills are only
for enlarging cast or punched holes in a production situation.

Parts of a Twist Drill

Figure 17. Parts of Twist Drills

Types of Steel a Twist Drill

Carbon Steels
• Low and high carbon steels are both used for drill bits, but for different purposes. Soft low
carbon steel cannot cut hard metals due to their poor tempers, but they can cut wood. They
require sharpening to extend their lifespan. The primary bonus of low carbon steel is its
relative inexpensiveness, especially when compared to some more exotic drill bit materials.
• High carbon steels have better tempers than low carbon steels, so they require less
maintenance, such as sharpening, and hold their form and effectiveness longer. They can cut
both woods and metals, and if available, are preferred to low carbon steels when cutting
extremely hard woods.
High-Speed Steel
• High-Speed Steel (HSS) is a special type of carbon steel that is prized for the way it can
withstand high temperatures while maintaining structural integrity, specifically its hardness.
Friction created by high-speed turning can raise temperatures dramatically, but HSS can
undergo these types of drillings. HSS can function at normal temperatures, as well, but only
at a level equal to standard carbon steel. HSS can also take coatings, such as titanium nitride,
which give the drill bit better lubricity, decreasing friction and helping to extend the bit’s life.
Titanium
• Titanium is a corrosion-resistant metal, and is reasonably light compared to its strength. It is
similar to steel in that it has a good fatigue limit, and also a high heat limit, although both are
less than steel’s. This longevity makes it attractive for use in repetitive, large runs. It is a very
versatile drill bit coating and it can cut a broad variety of surfaces, including many types of
steels and irons, as well as wood and plastic.
Zirconium Coating
• While not a primary material for drill bits, zirconium coated metals function very well for
drill bits. The zirconium nitride coating can increase strength for hard but brittle materials,
like steel. The makeup of the zirconium also decreases friction for improved precision
drilling.
Cobalt
• Cobalt is used for materials that HSS cannot cut, such as stainless steel. It is less susceptible
to high temperatures than even HSS so it is not affected by extremely high heat. As a
drawback, though cobalt coatings are excessively brittle.
Recommended Drill Points in Various Materials
6 TYPES OF POINT DRILL BITS

Brad point drill bits

• Its extremely sharp drill bit with a centering tip allows for exact hole positioning.
• This type of point drill bit provides the cleanest, straightest, and most accurately sized hole
in wood

Plexi Point Drill Bits

• Designed to cut plexiglas.
• The point can be between 60 degree and 80 degree included angle and the cutting angles are
reduced to keep the drill from biting into the Plexiglas too fast.

Taper Point
• Primarily used for old style wood screws.
• It is available in all sizes and lengths to cover a wide variety of screws.

Standard Industrial or Regular Point Drill Bits

• Regular point drill bits or v-point drill bits have a 118 degree included angle point with
cutting relief angles suited to cut metal. Drills with standard points specifically designed to
cut usually have a longer point angle.
• Drills with standard points specifically designed to cut wood usually have a longer point
angle (i.e. 80 degrees).

Split Point Drill Bits

• This type of bit usually has 135 degree included angle points and are designed to cut metal.
• Standard point drills have two cutting edges.

Screw Point Drill Bits

• This spiral-shaped drill has a carver and a sharp centering point, which helps you put it into
the wood at exactly the right spot
Cutting Speeds and Feeds

Figure 18. Cutting Speeds and Feeds

• Cutting speed is defined as the speed at which the work moves with respect to the tool
(usually measured in feet per minute). Feed rate is defined as the distance the tool travels
during one revolution of the part. Cutting speed and feed determines the surface finish,
power requirements, and material removal rate. The primary factor in choosing feed and
speed is the material to be cut. However, one should also consider material of the tool,
rigidity of the work piece, size and condition of the lathe, and depth of cut.
• For most Aluminum alloys, on a roughing cut (.010 to .020 inches depth of cut) run at 600
fpm. On a finishing cut (.002 to .010 depth of cut) run at 1000 fpm. To calculate the proper
spindle speed, divide the desired cutting speed by the circumference of the work.
Experiment with feed rates to achieve the desired finish. In considering depth of cut, it's
important to remember that for each thousandth depth of cut, the work diameter is reduced
by two thousandths.
 COUNTERSINKING

Figure 19. Countersinking

A process that creates a V-shaped edge near the surface of a hole. It is often used to deburr a drilled
or tapped hole, or to allow the head of a countersunk-head screw to sit. When made using a drill press or lathe,
a tool appropriately called a countersink is used. Involves enlarging the rim of a pilot hole. Especially necessary
when working with hardwoods.

Countersunk Head Screw

• Also known as a flat-head screw, they are called “countersunk screws”
because they “sink” into objects and surfaces. Therefore, when you drive
a countersunk screw into an object or surface, the head will sink so that
it’s flush with the respective material.
• The head of countersunk screws are completely buried, so there’s a
smooth and level contact between the door and the frame.
Figure 20. Countersunk Head Screw

Countersink

A countersink is a conical hole cut into a manufactured object, or the cutter used to cut such a hole.
A common use is to allow the head of a countersunk bolt, screw or rivet, when placed in the hole to sit flush
with or below the surface of the surrounding material.
Countersinks can be made to almost any angle, but are commonly between 60° and 120°, with the
most common being 82° and 90°.
Work process of Countersinking
Part 1: Drilling Pilot Holes
1. Measure the Diameter of the Screw’s Shaft with Calipers

Make sure the screw you’re using has a flat head with a cone-
shaped bottom, or else it won’t countersink easily. Open the jaws of the
calipers wide enough so you can put the screw between them. Tighten
the jaws around the main shaft of the screw, but not on the threading,
which is the raised area that rotates around the screw. Read the
measurement on the side of the calipers to know the diameter of the
screw’s shaft.

Figure 21. Measuring the diameter

2. Install a Drill bit that’s the same Diameter as the Screw’s Shaft onto your Drill.

Look through a set of drill bits and use your calipers to

measure their diameters. Search for a bit that either has the same size
or is about 1⁄16 inch (1.6 mm) smaller than the screw to make your
pilot hole. Install the bit you’re using in the drill’s chuck, which is the
rotating part that locks it in place.

Figure 22. Installation

3. Clamp the Wood Down to Secure it.

Set the wood on a flat, well-lit work surface so you can easily
see what you’re doing. Open the jaws of your C-clamp and secure
them around the piece of wood you're drilling into. Tighten the jaws
on the clamp to secure the piece of wood so it doesn’t rotate or shift
while you’re trying to drill into it.

Figure 23. Clamping

4. Mark the Location you’re Drilling with the End of your Screw

Put a dot on the piece of wood with a pen or pencil where

you want to make your hole. Then take the pointed end of your screw
and push it lightly into the surface to make a small dent. The dent will
give the drill a good starting point so it doesn’t slip or shift while
you’re making your hole.

Figure 24. Marking

5. Drill the Pilot Hole so it’s the Same Depth as the Screw Length

Hold the drill so the bit is perpendicular to the wood. Press down
on the drill’s trigger to start making your hole. Apply light pressure to
push the bit deeper into the wood until it reaches the same depth as your
screw. Let go of the trigger and pull the bit straight out so you don’t
damage it.

Figure 25. Drilling

Part 2: Adding the Countersink Holes

1. Secure a Fluted Countersink Cutter in your Drill that’s the Same Size as your Screw.

A fluted countersink cutter has a wider base that comes to a point

and contains multiple cutting edges so you can make larger holes for the
screw’s head. Use a cutter that matches the numbered size of your screw.
Pick a countersink cutter that has an 82-degree taper since it’s the most
common angle on the bottom of the screw’s head. Secure the countersink
cutter to the end of your drill so it fits tightly.

Figure 26. Securing Fluted Countersink Cutter

2. Drill Slowly into the Pilot Hole with the Cutter to make Countersink.

Place the point of the countersink cutter in the middle of the

pilot hole so it’s perpendicular to the wood. Pull the trigger slowly and
apply light pressure as you push the cutter further into the pilot hole.
Stop drilling every 5–6 seconds to clear away sawdust and check the size
of the countersink.

Figure 27. Drilling

3. Hold the Screw’s Head against the Hole to check if it’s the Same Size.

Take the countersink cutter out from the hole and clear away any
sawdust that built up around it. Turn your screw upside down and press
the head against the countersink hole. If the hole is the same diameter as
the screw’s head, then you’re ready to screw it in. If the hole is smaller
than the screw head, continue using the countersink cutter to make the
hole larger.

Figure 28. Checking of head against the hole

4. Use your Drill to Secure the Screw in the Hole until the Top is flush.

Remove the countersink cutter from the end of your drill and
replace it with a screwdriver bit. Position the point of the screw so it
lines up with your pilot hole and put the screwdriver bit into the slots
on top. Pull the trigger to slowly drive the screw into the hole until its
level with the wood surface.

Figure 29. Flushing

Judgment of Countersinking
The size of the countersinking bit must be roughly the same size or slightly bigger than the
size of the head of the screw so that the hole that the countersink would be making would sufficiently
accommodate the screw without any protruding extrusion.
Adjusting the Depth and Thickness (for Countersink bit with Drills)
Make sure that the size of the drill bit you are going to use is at least one size smaller than the
thickness of the screw. Also, the depth of the countersink bit with drill is adjustable, so make sure that
the height of the drill suits the height of the screw you are going to use.
Judging the Size of the Countersink Hole
In order to know if the countersink hole you made is sufficient for the head of the screw, you
may try to put the head of the screw inside the hole you made to see if it could fit in or just simply
measure with a caliper, if not then the process of countersinking could be repeated until the head of
the screw can fit in.
 REAMING

Figure 30. Reaming

A process of using a multifunctional flute to create a precise hole.
TYPES OF REAMERS
1.1 Chucking Reamer (Fluted)

Figure 31. Chucking Reamer (Fluted)

▪ It consists of short parallel cutting edges, with bevel lead, and long body recess between
shank and cutting edges integral with a parallel or taper shank for holding and diving the
reamer.
▪ Intended to be used in a drill press, turret lathe, or screw-cutting machine.
1.2 Chucking Reamer (Rose)

Figure 32. Chucking Reamer (Rose)

▪ It differs from the fluted type in that the cutting is all done by the beveled edges at the end.
▪ The chamfered cutting edges make an angle of 45°.
2. Machine Bridge Reamer

Figure 33. Machine Bridge Reamer

▪ Used in portable electric or pneumatic tool for reaming in ship-building, structural, and plate
work.
▪ Have parallel cutting edges, with a long lead integral with a tapered shank for holding and
driving the reamer.
3. Machine Jig Reamer

Figure 34. Machine Jig Reamer

▪ Consists of short, parallel cutting edges with bevel lead and a guide between the shank and
cutting edges integral with a tapered shank for holding and driving.
▪ The flutes are helical and the diameter varies from 7 to 50 mm.
4. Parallel hand reamer with a parallel shank

Figure 35. Parallel Hand Reamer

▪ Consists of parallel cutting edges with taper and bevel lead integral with a shank of the
nominal diameter of the cutting edges, and with a square on the end.
▪ The flutes may be straight or helical.
5. Parallel or taper shank socket head reamer

Figure 36. Taper Shank Socket Head Reamer

▪ May be straight or taper shank type and maybe hand or machine-driven

▪ The reamers have taper cutting edges to suit Morse taper, integral with a parallel or taper
shank.

6. Shell reamer

Figure 37. Shell Reamer

▪ Has an axial hole for use on an arbor, and has virtually parallel cutting edges with a
sharpened bevel lead.
▪ Employed for finishing large holes to save the tool.
7. Taper pin hand or machine reamer

Figure 38. Taper Pin

▪ This has taper cutting edges for holes to suit pins with a taper of I in 50, having-a parallel or
taper shank for holding and driving the reamer.
▪ The flutes may be straight or helical.
8. Expansion reamer

Figure 39. Expansion Reamer

▪ May be adjusted by a very small amount to compensate for wear, or to accommodate some
variation in hole size.

Difference between Hand and Machine Reamers

▪ Hand reamers have a long taper on the flutes, so full diameter is only reached once a third or
more down the length. The taper is intended to allow easy starting by hand. Hence the
square on the end for a tap wrench.
▪ Machine reamers cut on the very short chamfer at the end and as the name suggests are
intended to be used in a machine, ideally a lathe or mill.
 TOOL MATERIAL

Carbide-tipped

- Used to align existing holes prior to bolt or rivet operations

Figure 40. Carbide-tipped

Solid Carbide

- Carbide is able to run faster and withstand higher temperatures, while

providing great wear resistance for high-performance applications
Figure 41. Solid Carbide

High-Speed Steel

- Combines productivity and good tool life with minimal cost. Performs well
in free cutting and carbon steels, as well as soft, non-ferrous materials
[bronze, brass, copper and aluminium] Figure 42. High-speed Steel

Cobalt

- Possesses greater toughness, wear resistance and higher hardness than high
speed steel. Very small amount of chipping or micro chipping under severe
cutting conditions which allows the tool to run 10% faster Figure 43. Cobalt
 FLUTE STYLES

Helical Taper Pin

Figure 44. Helical Taper Pin

- Especially designed for the shop producing taper-pin holes by machine reaming. Chips do
not pack in the flutes due to the high-spiral construction.

Taper Pin

Figure 45. Taper Pin

- Has a taper of 1/4" to the foot. Designed to ream holes where standard taper fins would fit.

Spiral Flute

Figure 46. Spiral Flute

- Design provides the finest hole finish for through-hole applications.

Reaming Process
PROCESS VARIABLES
Size – accuracy and repeatability
- The final hole size that is achieved by a reamer subsequently depends on the reaming
process being used in conjunction with the reamer design and materials involved.

Surface finish and longevity

- A properly controlled process is also capable of maintaining a consistent size down the
entire length of the hole while minimizing the hour-glass effect.

Setup and equipment

- Generally, reaming is done using a drill press. However, lathes, machining centers and similar
machines can be used as well. The workpiece is firmly held in place by either a vise, chuck or
fixture while the reamer advances.

Tool materials
- Like other cutting tools, there are two categories of materials used to build reamers: heat
treated and hard. Heat treated materials are composed by different steels, most notably plain
carbon (unalloyed, considered obsolete today) and high-speed steels. The most common hard
material is tungsten carbide (solid or tipped), but reamers with edges of cubic boron nitride
(CBN) or diamond also exist.

Workpiece materials
- Aluminum and brass are typical workpieces with good to excellent machinability ratings. Cast
iron, mild steel and plastic have good ratings. Stainless steel has a poor rating because of its
toughness and it tends to work harden as it is machined.

Lubrication
- During the process of reaming friction causes the part and the tool to heat up. Proper
lubrication cools the tool, which increases the life of the tool. Another benefit of lubrication
includes higher cutting speeds. This decreases production times.
PROCESS
▪ Select the optimum type of reamer and the optimum speeds and feeds for the application.
Ensure that pre-drilled holes are the correct diameter.
▪ The workpiece must be held rigid and the machine spindle should have no play.
▪ The chuck in which a straight shank reamer is held must be good quality. If the reamer slips
in the chuck and the feed is automatic, breakage of the reamer may occur
▪ When driving a Morse Taper Shank reamer into a socket, sleeve, or machine spindle, always
use a soft-faced hammer. Make sure there is a good fit between the reamer shank and the
sleeve or socket otherwise misalignment will occur and the reamer may cut oversize
▪ Keep tool overhang from machine spindle to a minimum.
▪ Use recommended lubricants to enhance the life of the reamer and ensure the fluid reaches
the cutting edges. As reaming is not a heavy cutting operation, soluble oil 40:1 dilution is
normally satisfactory. Air blasting may be used with grey cast iron if dry machining.
▪ Do not allow the flutes of a reamer to become blocked with swarf.
▪ Before the reamer is reground, check concentricity between centers. In most instances, only
the bevel lead will need regrinding.
▪ Keep reamers sharp. Frequent regrinding is a good economy, but it is important to
understand that reamers cut only on the bevel and taper leads and not on the lands.
Consequently, only these leads need regrinding. Accuracy of regrinding is important to hole
quality and tool life.
REFERENCES:
https://www.travers.com/fundamentals-of-reamers/a/fundamentals-of-reamers/
http://www.nzdl.org/gsdlmod?e=d-00000-00---off-0cdl--00-0----0-10-0---0---0direct-10---4-------0-
1l--11-en-50---20-about---00-0-1-00-0--4----0-0-11-10-0utfZz-8-
00&cl=CL2.18&d=HASH0120e204590eb42a51a5cbaf.3&gt=1
https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=145166
https://www.theengineerspost.com/types-of-reamer/
http://www.dpgpolytechnic.com/downloads/files/n5acb2057c0dd3.pdf
http://uhv.cheme.cmu.edu/procedures/machining/ch4.pdf
http://uhv.cheme.cmu.edu/procedures/machining/ch4.pdf https://www.wisc-
online.com/LearningContent/mtl8502/MLT8502.htm
www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_haz/metalworking/drillpresses.html