INTRODUCTION

In this report we r going to give a brief about the research done on yarn testing
process. Yarn testing involves the following parameters:-

Test of:
 Yarn Count
 Yarn Twist
 Strength
 Hairiness
 Evenness

Types of yarns
Before getting into the test for yarns we need to know the types of yarns that
exist

Classification based on number of strands:

Single yarns

Single, or one-ply, yarns are single strands composed of fibers held together
by at least a small amount of twist; or of filaments grouped together which
can either have or not have twist; or of narrow strips of material; or of
single synthetic filaments extruded in sufficient thickness for use alone as
yarn (monofilaments). Single yarns of the spun type are composed of many
short fibres which require twists to hold them together, these twist could be
of S-type(S-twist) or Z-type (Z-twist).
Ply yarns

Ply yarns also called as plied or folded yarns are composed of two or more
single yarns that are twisted together. Two ply yarns for example are
composed of two single strands, three ply yarn are composed of three single
strand likewise. While making Ply yarn from spun strand the individual
strands are twisted in One direction which are again combined and twisted
in the opposite direction the fiber is firmer in case the single strands and the
final ply Yarns are twisted in the same direction resulting in the production
of harder textured and reduced flexible yarns. Heavy industrial fabrics and
delicate looking sheer fabrics are made from ply yarn

Cord yarns

When ply yarns are further twisted cord Yarns are produced, the final twist
in the production of cord yarn from ply Yarns are usually applied in the
opposite direction of the ply twist. Cord yarns are used as rope or twine,
may be made into very heavy industrial fabrics, or may be composed of
extremely fine fibers that are turned into sheer dress fabrics.

Novelty yarns
When small lumps are introduced into the young structure on purpose to
produce special effects as slabs then it is known as Novelty Yarns while
making Novelty yarn synthetic Yarns of varying thickness are also introduced
into the structure. The fabric formed from such yarns has a characteristic
uneven surface.

Textured yarns

When small lumps are introduced into the young structure on purpose to
produce special effects as slubs then it is known as Novelty Yarns. While
making Novelty yarn synthetic Yarns of varying thickness are also introduced
into the structure. Textured Yarns are basically modifications of synthetic
fibres where texturizing processes are applied on the synthetic fibres to
reduce features like transparency slipperiness and the possibility of pilling.
To give a hairy effect the textured Yarns are roughened or cut at various
intervals on its surface and twisted a little more.

Stretch yarns

Those synthetic Yarns which are formed by continuous filaments and are
tightly twisted, heat set and then untwisted giving kit spiral crimpy effect
and giving a springy character to the yarn are known as stretch Yarns

Metallic yarns
Metallic yarns can be made from a number of synthetic films such as
polyester coated with metallic particles. Metallic Yarns can also be formed
from Aluminum foil strips which are sandwiched between layers of film.
Strip of metal if is twisted around a natural or synthetic yarn as the latter
being its core it can form metallic yarn.

Classification based on use:

Fabric construction yarns

The name suggests what the Yarns are used for in case of weaving the warp
Yarns are subjected to greatest stress and are usually stronger and smoother
and have tighter twist than the weft Yarns accordingly yarns possessing the
above characteristics are chosen for fabric construction produced through
interlacement of Yarns a particular piece of fabric may have its warp and
weft Yarns of varying diameters producing special effects such as ribbed
fabric or cording effect in the fabric special effects in a fabric can also be
obtained by combining the weft and the warp Yarns formed by fibres from
different origins or with different degrees of Twist or maybe by introducing
metallic threads into the weaving structure Yarns use in machine knitting
usually have lower degree of Twist because knit fabrics are desired to be
softer in feel

Yarns used in handwork

The yarn required for hand knitting usually are of 2 ply or more than
that, they can include yarn of the following features: fingering yarns
(usually of two or three ply), light to medium in weight and with even
diameter, used for various types of apparel.
HAIRINESS OF A YARN

Under the microscope if a yarn is seen it will show structures like very fine hair
strands projecting out of a long strand of fiber. This feature of a yarn is term as its
hairiness

 Yarn hairiness is an undesirable property and is referred to as a problem in

fabric production and it also deteriorates the appearance of a fabric
 There could be a lot of causes for the for the higher degree of hairiness if
terms of raw materials used in producing that yarn, the process undertaken
to produce that yarn and how a particular fabric is being maintained also
adds up to its hairiness. If cotton fiber is been taken for or the production of
a particular yarn then it is necessary for that cotton fiber to be 70% mature.
If the maturity percentage is less than that then it can cause hairiness. Dead
fibres also result in hairiness
 Micronaire or fineness value: micronaire value of 4.2 plus minus 0.6 results
in increased hairiness present in flannel life fabrics
 Uniformity ratio normally fibres uniformity ratio is 40-50%, lesser
percentage then this causes increased hairiness

METHODS OF HAIRINESS TESTING

1. USTER TESTER 3(hairiness meter attachment)

2. Shirley yarn hairiness tester
3. Zweigle hairiness tester G565

USTER TESTER 3

The method includes an optional attachment of UT3 evenness tester. A parallel

beam of infrared light it is used to illuminate the yarn being tested as it runs
through the measuring head direct light is blocked from reaching the detector.
Only the light scattering from the fibres protruding out of the main yarn being
tested is allowed to reach the detector.
The amount of light that scattered gives us the measure of hairiness and this light
is converted to an electric signal by the apparatus. This setup can monitor the
changes in hairiness along a yarn by means of a diagram, spectrogram of hairiness
and mean hairiness

Hairiness index (H): total length of the protruding fibres with reference to the
sensing length of 1cm of yarn. Hairiness index is dimensionless

SHIRLEY YARN HAIRINESS TESTER

This method of hairiness testing of a yarn consists of a beam of light shining on a

small diameter photoreceptor present opposite to it. The yarn which is to be
tested is run between the light and the photoreceptor best hair pass between the
light and the receptor the beam of light is temporally broken and an electronic
circuit counts the interaction as one single hair. Thereafter the total number of
hairs that are present in a fixed length of yarn is counted by counting a then for a
given period of time

ZWEGLIE HAIRINESS TESTER G565

This method of testing count the number of hairs at distances from 1-25mm from
yarn edge. The hairs are counted simultaneously by a set of photo cells which are
arranged at 1,2,3,4,6,8,10,12,15,18,21,25mm from the yarn as shown in the figure
below. The photo cells present on the opposite side illuminate the year and as the
yarn runs past the measuring station the hair cut the light of momentarily from
the photo cells causing the electrical circuit to count in a similar manner to that of
the previous Shirley instrument. Zweglie hairiness tester measures the total
number of hairs in each length category for the set test length
Few things to note for the above two tests:

1) The speed at which the yarn is being run is fixed at 50 meters per minute but
the length of yarn being tested may vary

2) Zero point which is nothing but the position of the yarn edge relative to the
photo cells is adjusted while the yarn runs by moving the yarn and guides relative
to the photo cells.

3) During the setting up procedure the location of the edge of the yarn is detected
by another set of photocells

4) Zweglie Hairiness Tester calculates the total number of hairs above the length
of 3 mm which can be used as a comparison with the Shirley instrument.

NOTE: In the above two tests: hairiness = number of hairs/meter