LIBRARY

FOTOLJBITELZ

Release 29

M.F. YAKOVLEV

REPAIRS

CAMERAS

Edited by Cand. tech. Sciences

E. A. IOFISA

PUBLISHER
" ART"
Moscow one 962
6 P 9.7
I- 57

ANNOTATION

The author of the book shares his many years of experience in

repairing cameras.
The book describes in detail the failures of mechanisms and
optical devices of devices encountered and gives specific advice on
how to eliminate them. ...
The material is well illustrated with photographs of parts and assemblies
of mechanisms indicating how and in what sequence the apparatus should be
disassembled and assembled.
The section "Appendix" provides the necessary information
on optical-mechanical work and describes the tool required for
repair.
The book is intended for a wide range of amateur photographers. Please
send your reviews to the address: Moscow, I- 5 1, Color-
Noy Boulevard, publishing house "Art", editorial office of literature on
photography and cinematography.
 EDITORIAL

Our industry annually produces a large number of cameras of

various types - from the simplest to the most advanced. Millions of
people in our country, devoting their leisure time to photography,
deal with these " smart " mechanisms. But the camera, like any other
mechanism, requires careful attitude and skillful operation.
However, this does not exclude the possibility of various minor
malfunctions, and sometimes serious malfunctions.

The amateur photographer can often fix minor problems on his own
without resorting to the help of a master. This book is mainly devoted to the
task of rendering practical assistance to the amateur photographer in the
elimination of minor problems in the apparatus.

The author of the book has extensive experience in the repair and
modernization of cameras of various systems. Therefore, all his
advice is very specific and practically easy to follow. Working on the
book, he sought to give recommendations and elimination of the most
common faults. He arranged all the material according to the types of
cameras: " Photocor "," Moscow "," Lover "," Change "," FED "," Vigilant "," World
"," Kiev "," Zenith ".

The acquaintance with the device in each chapter begins with the most
complex model of this type. Using the example of the most complex apparatus,
the author examines the repair of all other, less complex models of this type.

The book describes in detail the arrangement of units and

mechanisms of domestic cameras, explains the interaction of parts,
tells how to fix this or that minor breakdown at home. The book
also provides advice on carrying out complex types of repairs that
can only be performed under conditions

3
workshop with perfect tools and special tools. This part of the book can
be useful for photographers and persons with experience in the repair of
precision mechanisms.

The book by MF Yakovlev is the first attempt to create a practical

manual for the repair of cameras, so, naturally, there may be drawbacks
in it.
The publisher and the author ask readers to send their comments
and suggestions on the content of the book, which will be taken into
account when we reprint it.
 CHAPTER 1. About

A photographic lens consists of a lens, a tube, a diaphragm, and a

frame. The frame shape is determined by the lens design. Each frame
provides a calculated relative position of individual lenses included in the
lens system. Before placing the lenses in the frame, they are first
centered in special frames. These clips are threaded so that

Figure: 1. Various types of photographic tubes

they can be screwed into a cylindrical tube. The tubes are different in
their design and entirely depend on the lens design. In fig. 1 shows some
types of tubes of modern design. Usually, in each tube, on one side (with
the help of locking screws or threads) the front lens component is
attached, and on the other - rear lens component. A diaphragm is placed
between the lens components.

5
 The assembled and centered lens unit is screwed into a frame with a
lead out for connection to the diaphragm ring.

According to their designs, frames can be divided into simple and

complex. Simple frames have a rigid fixed connection of parts. The
focusing of lenses with such frames is carried out only using the lens
stand.

Complex designs of frames include those frames that have threaded

connections, called worm gear. The frame, equipped with a worm gear,
makes it possible to focus on focus, and in some designs to communicate
the focusing with the rangefinder system of the camera. These frames are
very different in their design and consist of a large number of cylindrical
parts connected by threads and locking screws. Since such frames
provide focusing synchronously through the rangefinder, such frames are
manufactured according to certain specified calculations of the worm
gear. These calculations determine the alignment of the axial movements
of the objective with the amount of rotation of the worm gear holder and
the tail part, which relates to the displacement of the rangefinder system
by a given value.

For ease of focusing, the frame is equipped with either a lever with a
push-button switch in the infinity (∞) position, or an ordinary ring with a
ribbed knurl around the circumference. The connection of such frames to
the camera is carried out either by means of a screw thread, or by
means of bayonet connections.

There are also some frames that do not have a special tube. These
frames are part of the bolt body. The lens components are screwed into
the front and rear holes of the shutter. The diaphragm and shutter blades
are located between the lenses. Some; frame designs have rigid lens
mount. Other similar designs are designed so that the front lens
component has a rotational motion limited by the aiming scale. Such a
component has a slightly increased diameter and is knurled on its
circumference.

This design makes it possible to carry out focusing by rotating the

front compo-
6
nenta lenses. Some
parat " Moscow ") more complicated - they are associated with the
rangefinder device,

DIAPHRAGM

The diaphragm consists of a large number of segments - crescent-shaped

petals (Fig. 2), placed between two rings. One, main, ring has small
holes along its circumference, the number of which corresponds to the
number of petals. Every le-

Figure: 2. Diaphragm blades and connecting

rings

the pestle at the ends has pins, the diameter of which matches the holes
in the ring. One pin is facing up and the other - down. All petals fit into the
holes of the ring along its circumference with pins pointing downwards.
On the petals laid in a ring, a second ring with cuts is superimposed.
These slots should accommodate the upward facing pins.

The slotted ring is secured so that it does not pop out and at the
same time moves around the circumference. A connecting screw is
screwed into this ring to transfer the displacement from the upper
circumference of the lens barrel with a scale for marking the relative
aperture. If you rotate the ring with this screw, the diaphragm blades will
decrease or increase the diameter of the effective aperture of the lens.
This is called an iris diaphragm.

7
 Each photo volume
trained in specialized
red, equipped with a diaphragm
Consider const
photo lenses.
" Ortagoz ". For the first time a lens was released for mass
production " Ortagoz "( fig. 3). This anastigmat is constructed of four
lenses divided into two components. Each component consists of two
non-bonded lenses, one positive and one negative. Lens focal length f = one
3.5 cm, relative aperture 4.5, image angle 57 °. Lens " Ortagoz "

used in photoap - one ".

Figure: 3. Lens " Ortagoz " and its scheme

" Industar ". The four-lens anastigmat is very popular " Industar "( fig. 4).
This lens

Figure: 4. Lens " Industar " and its scheme

8
is available in different versions, which determine both the difference in
aperture ratio and focal length. This lens is mounted in various frames,
depending on the purpose. The lens is extremely widely used in cameras "
FED "," Vigilant "," Zenith "," Moscow ", as well as in cameras for special
purposes.

Our factories usually produce lenses with a conventional designation

(for example, " T- 22 ").
" T- 22 " - an object it from tre
has quite satisfactory shaky
ness, issued antah. IN
" Change ", eg carrier
hole 4.5, angle permissive
lens capacity on 28 lin
millimeter, and by k niyam.
Lens " T- 22 " least " Liu
from f = 7.5 cm, refers , 5, angle
zheniya 60 °. Permission centered
it is equal 26 lines per millimeter, along the edges of the floor lines.

Each of these lenses mounts to a central shutter barrel. Focusing is

carried out by the front component of the lens, which has a worm gear,
calculated with an exit along the optical axis, corresponding to the
distance from 1 m to ∞. Lens travel along

Figure: 5. Lens " Jupiter- 3 " and its scheme

nine
worm gear system yim wee
on the shutter and rim that lenses.
" Jupiter- 3 " - about out of seven
( fig. 5). The lenses are glued together, but. Often
and some are divided into layers. airy
therefore " YU is called
lustered non-symmetrical at with angle
in the
for sight 43-45 ° and p re fields thirty lines per millimeter, and at theedges
center
of the
field -1 4
lines per millimeter, s f = 5 cm, relative aperture
one, 5. The lens is available in different frames that are used in cameras " Leningrad
"," Kiev ",
" Vigilant ".
" Jupiter-1 2 " - wide-angle lens (fig. 6).
It is used specifically for shooting where it is necessary to obtain a large
image angle. This semi-glued

Figure: 6. Lens " Jupiter-1 2 " and its scheme

The asymmetrical system consists of six lenses mounted in a metal tube

with an iris diaphragm, and the tube with the lens components is
mounted in the frame of a worm-drive lens so that the entire rear lens
component extends beyond the tail of the frame. Lens focal length f = 35 mm,
relative aperture 2.8, image angle 63 °.

" Jupiter-1 2 " available in various frames that are mounted on

cameras " Leningrad "," Kiev " and " Vigilant ".

one 0
 It should be noted that the lens of this design is not used in cameras
where focusing is carried out using a reflex system, for example, in a
camera " Zenith ", since the rear component protruding beyond the tail
section interferes with the mirror operation.

" Jupiter- nine". This lens has a seven-element design and is a

semi-glued anastigmat with f = 8.5 cm, relative aperture 2. Lens field angle
28-29 °. Lens " Jupit ep-9 " produced in frames adapted for use in cameras
" FED "," Vigilant "," Zenith "," Kiev ".

All of the above and a number of other lenses cannot simply be

rearranged from one camera of the same type to another and
immediately meet all the requirements for a sharp image. This is
especially true for photographic lenses,
purchased separately from
cameras. After correct mechanical adjustment, the lens is carefully
aligned. How this is done will be described below, and now we will
consider the device of adjusting devices, which cannot be dispensed
with,

ADJUSTMENT DEVICES

Factory alignment of photo lenses is carried out using special optical

devices. Not every workshop, let alone every amateur photographer, is
able to purchase such an installation.

But the simplest adjusting device is not difficult o do it yourself, having

the simplest lens or positive lenses available. Let's consider some
devices of the simplest collimators.

The main purpose of the collimator - create a directed parallel beam

of light.
For the manufacture of the collimator, an ordinary achromatic lens of
large diameter is taken and enclosed in a metal or plastic frame (you can
use any component from a fast long-focus lens. Lens A in fig. 7, reinforced
in the frame, should fit snugly and not move. A metal tube (tube) is taken
of such a diameter that

eleven
it could fit the tubes; there
must be a lens that cannot be
installed
will be fixed in the tube (using locking screws or threads), another, shorter
tube is put on the other end of the tube With screw Ж for clamping along
the tube. Into this tube IN a plane-parallel glass is built in D with a
crosshair applied to it (the crosshair can be applied using a diamond or a
victorious cutter). Immediately at a short distance from the glass with a
cross on the tube IN put on the frame with I

Figure: 7. Collimator circuit

milk glass D. The milky glass frame fits over the tube so that it can be
easily removed if required. This whole system of a short tube should
move tightly, but without much effort, along tube B in one direction or
another and be fixed with a screw J.

A light source is installed on the side of the milk glass - electric lamp with
matte reflector E. This entire system must be installed on a bracket or
bench 3, and the collimator is ready. To obtain a parallel beam of rays, it
is necessary to align the collimator at ∞ so that the crosshair is precisely
set in the focal plane of the objective.

Collimator alignment at ∞ is done by auto collimation. For this, a

plane-parallel mirror is taken and installed in front of the lens of a
number of

one 2
so that it is perpendicular to the optical axis of the collimator. The mirror
should have a precise flat surface and external silvering. After installing
the mirror, the frosted glass is removed from the collimator and replaced
with 1 0— one 2- multiple magnifier A ( fig. 8).

The magnifier adjusts so that its large diameter B fit tightly into the place
of the milk glass. A weakly silver-plated mirror is installed inside the
magnifier IN at an angle 45 ° to the optical axis. Above

Figure: 8. Autocollimator circuit

a small hole is made with a mirror in the magnifier frame, above which
the light source is installed - electric lamp. The light source passes
through the hole, falls on the mirror IN and, reflected from it, illuminates
the cross of the collimator. After illuminating the crosshair, the light
passes through the lens, meets with a perpendicularly mounted mirror,
reflects from it and returns back, passing through a slightly silvered
mirror IN,

getting directly into the eye of the adjuster, which simultaneously sees
the reticle cross and its image reflected from the mirror installed in front
of the collimator lens. Observing through the autocollimator's magnifying
glass, the tube with the crosshair is gradually moved until the crosshair
and its image converge in one plane and are sharp. Having achieved
sharpness, the tube is fixed with a screw and the auto collimator is
removed. The established position of the grid will exactly correspond to
the focal plane of the collimator objective.

one 3
 When assembling and disassembling optical devices, it is often
necessary to determine the flange distance of a lens or lens component.
Such a measurement is carried out using a collimator and a simple
microscope.
The collimator is installed on a solid and flat plane A ( fig. nine), in
front of the lens of which the lens to be checked is located B or a lens
component so that their optical axes are completely aligned. Then a
microscope is placed in front of the lens. With in such a way that he could
move without straying to the side

Figure: nine. Diagram of the device for determining the working

lens cutting

from the optical axes of the collimator, the lens under test and the
microscope itself. The microscope is brought closer to the lens, and the
lens is positioned so that its spherical surface is clearly visible in the
microscope. For better visibility, the lenses are slightly covered with
pollen. A ruler with divisions is placed under the microscope and the zero
position is marked on the microscope arm.

Moving the microscope away from the lens, aim it at the crosshair
until the sharpest image of the crosshair is obtained. The removal of the
microscope from the lens until a sharp image of the crosshair is obtained
will be equal to the working segment of the lens under test.

The main task in the repair is the correct fit and precise alignment of
the lenses to the camera. For this purpose it is necessary to have an
alignment collimator. Such a collimator is somewhat similar to the one
described above, it is very simple and easy to manufacture in a
mechanical workshop.

one 4
 Any 1 2- multiple worm-drive magnifier G ( fig. one 0)
adapts so that it can be screwed into the tube IN. This tube with an inner
diameter 42 mm has length 40 mm. On the other side of the tube there is
a groove up to 2 mm and diameter 44 mm. Outer diameter of the tube 47-48
mm.

Figure: one 0. Adjustment tool

lenses

A round plane-parallel glass with a very fine matte surface facing

outward is inserted into the groove of the tube. The glass should be well
sealed with a trowel and scraper, since the slightest displacement of it
will disrupt the entire alignment of the lenses. On the side where the
frosted glass is mounted, there must be a thread on the tube (thread
pitch 1 mm). The length of the thread on the tube must be at least 6 mm. The
finished tube is screwed into the focal frame And with holder D. This
frame has a length 32 mm and is designed so that on one side, where
the tube is screwed in, there is a clamping screw B,

with which you can clamp the tube IN in any alignment position. On the
other side of the barrel there is an internal thread for screwing in an
adjustable lens.

For greater convenience on the tube IN a dividing line is made, on

both sides of which millimeter divisions are sometimes applied to fifty mm
to the right and fifty mm to the left. To set the starting position, outline
the vernier. Using a depth gauge or caliper, mark the distance in the
focal frame from the reference plane, where the lens is screwed in, to
the frosted glass. This distance is

one 5
is the flange distance and must equal 29 mm. Approaching or removing
the plane of the frosted glass by rotating the tube IN, easy to determine
the desired distance. Having found the distance, tighten the clamping
screw B and put the vernier exactly opposite the dividing line.

Such a device is very convenient because, when adjusting the lenses,

we can easily determine how much it is necessary to deepen or raise the
fit of the lens to be adjusted. When turning one space against the vernier
to the right
it is indicated that the lens must be angled to the
focal plane by one hundredth of a millimeter, and
when turning to the left, suppose by five divisions,
the lens must be raised by five hundredths of a
millimeter. It is clear that this requires

put lining
five hundredths of a millimeter thick.
Figure: 11. Auxiliary- It should be noted that not at
naya bench for justice focal length of all cameras
lens alignment length has exactly 29 mm, often it
the distance is changing,
especially from careless handling of the camera. Then, before
adjustment, using a depth meter, the distance from the reference plane
of the lens to the focal plane of the camera is determined in the camera,
that is, to the plane of placement of the photosensitive material.

Having determined this distance with absolute accuracy, it is

transferred to the frame of the adjustment collimator. On the collimator,
this distance is calibrated so that it exactly corresponds to the distance
from the reference plane to the ground glass of the alignment collimator.
Only then can you check the lens on the collimator and judge its fit to the
camera. If at the same time any discrepancy between the lens and the
camera is detected, the adjustment is performed.

The adjustment of chambers, in which the back wall is opened or

removed from the body, is performed from the side of the film location. To
do this, the magnifying glass is unscrewed from the collimator and screwed
into the focal bench.
( fig. eleven). This bench is designed in such a way that the frosted glass
in its lower part has a common support
one 6
plane with the plane of the bottom of the bench itself. Having brightly
illuminated the frosted glass of the bench, the magnifying glass is set so
that the structure of the frosted glass is depicted sharply. The bench is
then applied to the rear plane of the camera so that the frosted glass
rests on the entire focal plane of the camera. Then aim and check the
lens setting at ∞.

To determine the resolution of the lens, use the so-called world - test
table. This table is composed of individual black line groups on a white
background.

The lens to be tested is screwed into an alignment device, which is

then mounted on a tripod and pointed at the world. Then, through the
eyepiece of the device, one examines how clearly and in detail the
smallest strokes of the world are discernible and how many lines per
millimeter fit on the frosted glass. (For details on the worlds, see the book
by P.A.Nogin „ Photographic lens "). Poor image quality should be
considered: 1) an unsharp image of stripes with blurred edges, 2)

double image of stripes, 3) the presence of halos at the edges of the

stripes, 4) distortion of the stripes and 5) insufficient contrast of the
stripes.
 CHAPTER 2

CAMERA „ PHOTOCOR-1 "

Most of the cameras, which differ sharply from each other in

external design, are so similar in the structure of the main units of the
mechanism that, knowing the kinematics of one, it is not at all difficult to
understand the structure of the others. But it also happens the other
way around: cameras that are very similar in appearance differ greatly
in their internal structure. Various designs are aimed at ease of use in
photography: fast focusing, ease of framing, quick replacement of
negative material and one lens for another. In most cases, all this leads
to complications of individual units of the apparatus mechanism.

Camera " Photocor-1 "- the first Soviet photographic apparatus

produced by our industry. This device has long been out of production
and is in use by a small number of amateur photographers. Despite this,
on the device and repair of mechanisms " Photocor " it is necessary to
stop, as both amateur and professional photographers work on foreign
cameras that have much in common with a camera in design " Photocor-1
".

CAMERA BODY

" Photocor-1 " consists of a metal case (height 1 5 cm, width 11 cm, thickness
5.5 cm), the front cover, on which the double tension slide with ratchet,
meter scale and spacers are mounted. The board with the lens moves
freely in the fork. The fork is connected to the travel joint so that it can
move left and right. Shutter mounted on lens board " Gomz ",

frame and mirror viewfinders.

one 8
 On the rear side, the camera body has slots for
cassettes and frosted glass frames for metal
cassettes - odin
Skew and curvature of the body cameras. The front cover does not open
well, resting on the wall or corner of the chamber.
The correction is made as follows. The front cover of the chamber is
opened, the lower damaged corner is pressed against the workbench or
table and, with the help of a lead gasket, press on the upper corner with
a bias until the parallelism of the sides is aligned. It is necessary to
check the parallelism of the sides by measuring the angles with a
square.

After fixes
corps check
front cover. When
closing cap
must enter in
the body is free and from all
parties have
the same small
clearance between the sides of the
casing. Lock cover
should enter well
in slit and easy Figure: one 2. Installation of the sight frame
release her from the case viewfinder
when the button is pressed. If the lock does not hold well, then it is bent
up a little and the grip is checked by closing and opening the camera lid.

The frame viewfinder is detached from the body. The viewfinder

is installed using a screwdriver or a thick needle, which is slipped under
the antennae of the steel clamp-holder (Fig. 1 2).

If the clamp-holder is torn off, the heads of the rivets are cut down to
the surface of the body, and the remains are knocked out with a thin
steel punch of the appropriate diameter. The new rivets are made of red
copper with the expectation that they fit tightly into the holes and come
out with a margin over the body. The rivet heads must be at the bottom.
A gasket and a clamp are put on the ends of the rivets. Bottom on the
heads of the rivets

one nine
A metal clamping plate is pushed out and riveted. Having riveted a little
rivet, insert the sight and rivet it tightly so that the heads are formed. After
the final riveting, the heads are sanded and painted over with black
varnish.

Damaged pasting corps cameras. Received

in the following way.
matina get ripped off yet
say that the cladding
and the cladding from the old
paradise is slightly denatured
and, having dried a little
In those places where I
carefully cut out about it
dermis cladding
above, prik

The fur is peeled off. When correcting, you must completely

separate it from the body and from the lens board. To separate the fur
from the lens board, remove the frosted glass frame and unscrew the
rear lens component. Then, using a tubular wrench (Fig. 1 3) unscrew the
clamping ring and remove the plug. After cleaning

Figure: one 3. Unscrewing the pipe clamping ring

chat key

twenty
the joints of the fur with the camera are good, they are coated with a thin
layer of glue and dried at an elevated temperature. When the glue dries
up, coat it again and after a short exposure in heated air connect the fur
to the camera. To keep the fur well pressed, a small gauze swab is
placed on it and the lid is closed so that it presses lightly on the swab.
On the reverse side, the fur is aligned so that all its sides are correctly
positioned relative to the frame of the body. To speed up the drying, the
chamber is placed on an electric stove with a blind masked spiral, which
is occasionally turned on to maintain heating. Drying at elevated
temperature ( 50-60 °) should last at least 30-40 min. After that, drying
continues in air for 24 hours. The fur is glued with glue " BF- 2 ", or "88".

Negative material is illuminated. It means,

that the corners of the fur are worn out or punctured. To glue the
puncture or worn corners of the fur, a thin skin is taken and a strip of the
desired size is cut. After cleaning the bonding points from contamination,
they are lubricated with rubber glue and dried well. After drying, a layer
of glue is applied to the same places again. When the glue dries, the
patch is glued and pressed with a cloth for several minutes. After gluing
with a piece of cotton wool dipped in gasoline, remove the glue
contamination.

Curvature of fur accordion folds eliminated

in the following way. The place of curvature of folds is slightly moistened
with water. A piece of dry cloth is applied to the wet part of the fur. On
the reverse side, put a gauze swab of the required size, and press on
top with a heated iron or a hot plate of thick iron. After a little warming
up, the fur is laid in a certain order and the chamber lid is closed. Drying
lasts for 6-8 hour. After that, the fur assumes its original position.

LENS STAND MECHANISM

Lens stand, or fork (Fig. 1 4), is arranged so that its lower part is fixed
in grooves and can move to the right and left along the grooves of the
hinge block. Block

2 one
serves for lane t
cam and original to
thus the cart
camera. IN on
With dl about
vertically in
welded tabs t
cattel.
The lens board stops moving vertically often from dirt, corrosion or
deformation.
To troubleshoot
ness thin punch
knock out the pin located on the left side
of the rack

Figure: one 4. Lens stand Figure: one 5. Removing the pin

punch

near the displacement head (Fig. 1 5). After removing the pin, the screw is
removed 2, nut is removed one and the lens board is removed from the
grooves (Fig. 1 6). After removing the lens board with a thin flat file, the
grooves are cleaned, washed with a brush dipped in gasoline, wiped and
lubricated with thick grease.

When attaching the lens board in place, its edges are cleaned of dirt
and corrosion. If the board is bent, it is carefully leveled by checking with
a steel ruler. Only then can the lens board freely

22
enter the grooves and move around easily. In no case should it be assumed
that the board would fit into the grooves tightly or have a backlash (swinging in
the grooves).
The movement of the board must be completely free, without
jamming.

Figure: one 6. Detaching the lens board from the stand

Large viewfinder frame rests on the lens board in metal paws, one
of which has a steel flat spring that fixes the working and non-working
positions of the frame. Failure to fix the frame occurs from the
weakening or breakage of the spring. When correcting, cut off the rivet
heads and remove the spring. Having bent the spring so that it presses
sufficiently against the frame, it is put in place and riveted by inserting
new rivets. If the spring is broken, then it is replaced with a new one,
made, for example, from a clock spring. To do this, a piece of the clock
spring is released over the fire, filed to the desired shape and bent so
that it can spring. After that, marks are made for drilling and holes are
drilled. After drilling, the spring is cleaned, quenched and riveted into
place.

Moving the lens board horizontally may also be violated. When

correcting, knock out the pin located at the bottom of the screw head.
Then, a nut is removed from the rectangular hole, previously removed

23
screw lead screw. I direct the
correction
walks in the grooves tightly,
with a gouging file and eyes in
the grooves freely and with a
hammer
carefully, laying down
anvil bone. After
movement of the fork in the grooves. Having achieved uniform movement of the
fork in the grooves, they are assembled.
Infinity position lock. The collapsible pad on which the lens arm is
attached has push buttons for extending it. One of these buttons is
connected to the ∞ position lock. This retainer is located underneath the
block (Fig. 1 7) and has five workers

Figure: one 7. Position lock device

infinity

points: one - the lock of the latch holding the lens stand in the ∞ position; 2
- spring fastening; 3 - a cutout guiding the offset; 5- button fastening;

6— a latch lock, which, by engaging the cutout on the screw on the

slide, keeps the lens mount in its inoperative position.

Locking on when the lens mount is retractable into the camera. The
stand pops out of the grooves in the slide and the front cover does not
close.
The malfunction can occur because the screw has jumped out of
the slide. Then they select or make
24
new screw. This screw must be steel and high 2.5 mm and diameter 2 mm.
If the screw is intact, and the lens stand is not fixed and slips, then bend
the lock lock 5 so that it sinks slightly lower and grips the screw. The
same can happen with the latch lock. one. The correction is made in the
same way. In some cases, the violation of the fixing of the lens stand
occurs due to a malfunction of the spring 4 ( the spring is stretched, its
ends are broken off or it is torn off the stop). If the spring is torn off the
stop, it is installed in its place, as shown in fig. one 7. If any end of the
hook is broken off the spring or it is lost, it is rewound from steel wire with
a diameter 0.5 mm. The spring must have at least 1 2

turns in diameter 2.5 mm.

Lens base block sometimes moves around
the slide is too difficult or uneven. In the first case, using a ruler, the
straightness of the guide sides of the block is checked and, if any
curvature is found, the guide sides are corrected.

The curvature is straightened on the anvil with a copper hammer and

pliers. If the curvature is very large, then in rivets A and B ( fig. one 7) make
recesses with a punch, which should be made strictly in the center of the
rivets. After that, the rivets are drilled to a depth 5 mm and separate the
block from the plug. In this position, the block can be easily corrected on
a level and flat anvil. Then it is checked against the carriage and
processed with a personal file until the movement in the carriage is even
and without jamming.

The fixed block is riveted into place using new rivets.

RIDING AND CREMALIERA

The sides and slats of the sled. The lens arm travels along the slide
tightly, jerkingly or with strong jamming when moving. This is due to
damage to either side of the slide. If the curvature cannot be detected by
eye, take a ruler 1 thick 5 mm and slide it into the grooves of the slide for
testing.

25
 The depressions found on the slide are carefully straightened out
using pliers specially sharpened for this purpose. The swellings are
gently settled with a copper hammer. The whole process of work is
controlled

Figure: one 8. Checking the operation of the sled

lined with a ruler and advancement of the block along the slide (Fig. 1 8).

If the slats of the slide are loosened and loosened, they are secured
with screws that are located on the back of the slide, under the lid gluing.

Tribca ratchet. For

slip fixes
the rack mounts on its reverse side
unscrew two screws, having previously
torn off
pasting ( fig. one nine), then
separate the rack together with the
holder plate.
Aligning the holder with the

him impose two

gaskets of dense
cardboard (1 mm). Figure: one nine. Mounting screws
The gaskets are pre- cremaliers

26
make holes i'm comfortable
masonry can be attached I am not
gaskets, kremal oh me
pull it with screws. The correct position of the rack is when the pinion axis
is firmly pressed against the sled rail. Tighten the screws tightly and glue
the cladding.
SPACERS

On the front cover, to stop and maintain it at a certain angle in the

working position, there are two spacers, which, with their cutout in the
upper part, cling to special pins with a groove.

Figure: twenty. Damaged from- Rice, 2 1. Correct

bench press strut position

The malfunction of the spacers is that the spring antennae (Fig. twenty)
bend back and lose the force of the stop or break off the tooth-holder.

It is not difficult to eliminate such a malfunction. To do this, remove

the damaged spacer from the pin located on the side wall of the
chamber. The freed spacer straightens so that the tendril clings well to
the holder tooth and springs when the spacer is pressed (Fig. 2 one).

SHUTTER MECHANISM

On camera " Photocor-1 " shutter installed " Gomz ", in some models - gate " Pace
". We will only touch on the repair of the shutter " Gomz ". Shutter repair " Pace " described
in the description of the repair of the camera " Moscow ".

27
 Stuck shutter blades is the main and
frequent camera malfunction. The bolt blades are usually made of thin
ebonite. From time to time and a sharp change in temperature, the
petals warp, lose their shape, and this results in jamming in the shutter.

Figure: 22. Shutter petals

To eliminate the malfunction, you must remove the rear shutter

cover. First, separate the shutter from the camera, then remove the rear
lens component, unscrew three to four screws, and then remove the rear
cover.
To give the petals the desired shape, the petals are lowered to 2-3 min
in fifty%- a solution of acetic acid, after which the petals are clamped
between two iron planes and heated to 70 ° on the hotplate. After
heating, the petals are left compressed until completely cooled. The
corrected petals are put into place.

If a hole breaks through the petal in its lower part or the tip breaks
off, a new petal is made. To do this, take sheet ebonite with a thickness 0.3
mm
and a new petal is made from it exactly according to the configuration of the
broken one or according to the second, serviceable petal. The shape of the petals
is shown in Fig. 22.
Damage to the diaphragm blades is corrected as follows: by opening
the diaphragm completely and noticing the position of the pressure ring
with paint, from it
28
unscrew two wines
replacement ring 2 ( ri
washer one with reverse and
drive washer
rim petals
u, as it was said
Sometimes from a pet
we pop out pc
cases, you should not try to drive the fallen out
pin into place, the pin will not hold even at the
first
turn break out of
holes. Therefore, in such cases, always make
new pins.
To do this, remove the exact size from the
old pin and from the copper
wire make a pin or Figure: 23. Rear roof
several pins, depending on aperture shutter
how many are lost

Figure: 24. Diaphragm details

or damaged. When installing the pin in place, make sure that the thin part of the
pin is slightly longer than the thickness of the petal and fits snugly into the hole.
The pin installed in the petal is slightly riveted, and then with a velvety file the
excess height of the riveting is cut almost to the body of the petal. After that, the
pin is riveted a second time and the place of riveting is cleaned.

When performing this work, it must be borne in mind that when riveting the
pin in the hole of the petal, it

29
the main part spreads out somewhat, increasing in diameter. Before
assembly, all corrected petals should be checked well only after that
proceed with assembly. The diaphragm is assembled as follows. With
the right hand, using tweezers, take one flat cake

so that the pin pointing downwards would

с левой стороны лепестка и ук дывался
в отверстие крышки затв так, как показано
на рис. 25. Зат по порядку укладывают
еще с лепестков (рис. 26). Дальше укла
лепестков продолжать нельзя,

как можно рассыпать at

уложенные лепестки. Чтобы п дальнейшей
укладке лепестки не рассыпались,
их придерживают
большим пальцем левой руки и
Рис. 25. Установка пер- подсовывают остальные один за вого лепестка
диафраг- другим, стараясь не рассыпать
we are assembling уложенные ранее лепестки.
После того
как все лепестки будут уложены, накладывают прижимное кольцо
диафрагмы так, чтобы его положение совпадало с пометкой. Если
при этом штифты лепестков не все войдут в кулисы (прямоугольные

прорезы),то их сдвигают на свои места при

помощи острия чертилки или иглы.

When all the pins enter the wings of the

diaphragm ring, put a drive washer from below
and tighten the screws, thereby connecting the
entire movable
the system diaphragm.
After checking the operation of the aperture blades,
apply cover on gate,
check the coincidence of the screw holes and, pressing the lid to the
body with your fingers, check the operation of Fig. 26. Installation

shutter. After making sure that the subsequent flutters are in good working
order, all the diaphragm stacks are tightened when
assembly
screws evenly and to failure.
Trigger lever. The return spring is broken. When you press the
release lever, the shutter is released and gives the desired speed, but
does not return the release lever
thirty
to source software to replace
spring, find To make
exact copy made of steel
wire dia the ruin needs
under the screw with the same c rested on
body shutter
pressed the trigger
initial
leaning in a hundred
After tired
springs etc
act. Making sure in
serviceability, impose
cover and tighten the screws.
Jamming descent at Figure: 27. Trigger device
work with a cable. Trigger lever
the lever is designed so that its inner part of the pawl fits into the slot of
the sleeve 3 ( fig. 27). This sleeve is used to operate the shutter using

cable. Malfunction
the descent comes from
misalignment of the bushing or from
seizing the dog's shoulder,
entering the slot of the sleeve
itself.
When repairing,
screw 2 and take out the sleeve.
Bushing misalignment
aligns, a
possible burrs
are filed with a file.
After of this sleeve
inserted into place
Figure: 28. Shutter mechanism and is checked as ho-
well combined ple-
cho trigger lever with a slot in the sleeve. If the lever arm moves freely in
the bushing, tighten the screw and check the operation with the cable.

The trigger lever inside the bolt on the dog has a tooth 3,
which clings to the bend 2 speed rockers
( fig. 28). If this tooth is damaged, the adhesion to the rocker arm is
disrupted. To fix, remove the springs
3 one
and levers under the screw 4, and adjust the lever so that it grips the
tooth of the speed rocker well, and when the lever is pressed to failure, it
throws it off the tip. After checking the operation of the mechanism, the
shutter is assembled.

Power rocker. The shutter mechanism is equipped with a lever - yoke.

This lever has two swinging arms 7 and 8 ( fig. 28) and the power spring /.
The upper shoulder has a flat leg 2, installed perpendicular to the base of
the valve. The fold serves as a stop when the shutter speed is taken by
hand (on the shutter it is indicated by the letter " TO "), and for permanent
opening of the shutter (permanent opening is indicated by the letter " D "). The
lower arm of the rocker arm serves to swing the cradle 6, which, with its
movement, opens and closes the petals.

Damage from t g and b a 2 at the top

shoulder (see fig. 28 and 3 1) leads to malfunction of the shutter speeds.
To eliminate the malfunction of the bend 2 verify the correctness of its
perpendicular position and its interaction with the levers

A and B ( fig. 3 1), against which the bend rests when working on " TO " and " D ".

Violation of the speed is due to the curvature of the upper arm of the
rocker arm. The trigger tooth slips past when pressed without catching
the rocker shoulder. To eliminate the malfunction, the rocker arm is bent
up so that the pawl grips the ledge and lifts the lever arm to the desired
height. Here it is necessary to make an adjustment to return the trigger
dog to its original position. If sticking occurs, the shoulder is bent down.
Adjustment of the interaction of the levers lasts until there is complete
consistency between the levers.

The adjustment can be considered complete only when the release

lever pawl correctly grips the shoulder shoulder and returns back, sliding
along the shoulder shoulder surface to the starting position for the next
cycle of work.

Sometimes the shutter malfunction occurs from loosening of the screw 2,

securing the rocker arm and the power spring (see Fig. 29). Therefore,
when starting the repair, it is necessary to check whether this screw is well
tightened.

32
If the screw wobbles in the thread, tighten it tightly and check the rocker
arm.
Violation of the operation of speeds often occurs from a malfunction
of the lower arm of the rocker 7 ( see fig. 28).
In this case, the shutter blades either do not open or close, even though
the mechanism precisely clicks off all speeds. The same malfunction can
occur from damage to the cradle. 6.

Cradle. When repairing this unit of the mechanism, you should pay
attention to the consistency of the lever 7 with cradle 6 ( fig. 28). There is
an oblique protrusion on the bottom plate of the cradle. This protrusion is
set so that due to the bevel, the tendril of the lever may not cling you c-.

stupid, and, slipping, jump over it; during the reverse movement, the antennae
rests against the straight part of the projection and opens the petals with a
cradle. When the tendril 5 lever 7
seizes or rests against a ledge, find a place of jamming or stop and
gently clean the surface with a scraper. Sometimes stripping is not
enough, then the bottom plate of the cradle or the tendril of the lever is
bent, achieving coordinated operation of the rocker arm and cradle. L e p
estki
z a t in o r a open
too wide, so that the backs of their heads rest against the body of the
shutter. When correcting excessive opening of the petals, do not bend
the lower arm of the rocker arm. To reduce the opening of the petals, the
tendril is filed, as a result of which the lowering of the cradle is reduced,
and thus the opening of the petals.

The second tendril of the same lever is intended to close the shutter
petals, resting its end against the partition of the cradle. Malfunction - sticking
or incomplete closing of the petals.

Closing the shutter petals. In this case, the tip of the lever is
squeezed out so that it does not cling to the lower part of the cradle and
rests on its side of the wall, and when the lever is triggered, it rotates
against the cradle to close the petals.

Incomplete closing of petals. In this case, the tendril end is

lengthened by pulling with a hammer on the anvil. It is necessary to pull it
back very carefully with weak blows and a very small lengthening. Before
eliminating this malfunction, it is necessary to check whether the upper
arm of the rocker arm is jammed in the system.

2 M.F. Yakovlev 33
other growls la production
they only feed at one of the instant speeds.

The problem is with the springs (Fig. 29). The spring has lost its
elasticity, shifted from the stop of the speed divider 3, broken. If the spring
breaks / is replaced with a new one. Such a spring can be easily made from
an old spring. To do this, you need to know the diameter of the spring, the
configuration and the length of its ends. The exact configuration of the
spring is clearly visible in fig. 29.

Accuracy about the count of the speed. Any shutter must provide an
accurate reading of speeds. In this case, the speed 25, 50, one 00 carried
out by tensioning the spring with the divider stop

speeds. To receive
relatively accurate
speeds shutter
spring must
push up downwards
speed divider 3
( fig. 29) so that its elasticity
increased.
When the spring 4 find
Figure: 29. Rocker arm and power rod in a relaxed
zhina
condition, its end is up-
into the valve body. Speed divider 3 then does not press on the spring 4,
The speed is 25. If the divisor
3 pressed the spring as shown in fig. 29, speed is fifty. When setting
speed 1 00 the divider will press the spring even lower. Only with such an
arrangement of the stop on the spring can the most accurate speeds be
obtained.

Levers constant excerpts A and B ( fig. thirty) when counting speeds

" TO " and " D " must interact clearly. Velocities are counted by ledges and
cutouts on these levers. The shape of the levers is very complex. There
are many ledges, cutouts, grips on them.

Repair of levers is to correctly distribute the interaction of all ledges,

stops and grips. Therefore, in order to eliminate the malfunction, it is
necessary to know the sequence of operation of all sections of the
levers.

34
 Small ry h a g A
grooves and two folds. la, when
the p thought comes from the
tooth descents
It is constantly pressed under the action of a spring that presses on the
right bend. The bend on the left serves to disengage the lever when
working at instantaneous speeds, and the groove - to retract the lever to
its original position. When you press the trigger, the dog's tooth raises the
rocker until it comes off it. At this time, the spring will give the lever, and
the broken rocker rests against the ledge

Figure: thirty. Speed selection levers " TO " and " D "

lever, in this position the petals will be open until we release the trigger.
When the release lever is released, the pawl will return to its original
position and, resting the column against the groove, will release the
lever, which, in turn, will release the bend of the rocker arm. The
released rocker arm will close the bolt blades under the action of the
spring. This action determines the shutter speed at " TO ".

Big r y h a g B ( fig. thirty) serves to trigger the mechanism for

permanent opening. It is superimposed on the small lever (fig. 3 1) and
clamped with a common screw 7. This lever has a long working end,
pressing on which, the speed divider one turns off the operation of the
lever. There is a stop on the lever 3, which serves to hold the rocker arm
in the upper position. Finger 4 serves for

2* 35
dropping the lever
Emphasis 5 is designed to hold the column, and the loop
6 - to accommodate the tip of the spring.
Operation at speed x " TO " and " D ".
The repair consists in fine adjustment of the interaction of these two
levers. The interaction of the levers is as follows.

When the shutter is operating " TO " the stop of the speed divider
keeps the upper lever off, and the lower lever is in action and, when the
trigger is pressed, opens the petals to " TO ".

Figure: 3 1. Setting the exposure levers

When the shutter speed is set to " D " speed divider one
moves up and releases the upper lever, which can now perform its
actions. By pressing the trigger, we raise the shoulder of the rocker with
the dog's tooth. Having reached the desired point, the rocker arm breaks
down and lingers on the ledge of the lower arm. At the moment, the
upper arm is not engaged as it is sticking with a finger 4 about column of
the dog. Now, when we begin to release the trigger, the post on the
trigger dog will do the work. He will first release the upper lever, which by
its stop 3 will fit under the bend of the rocker arm and will hold it on itself
instead of the lower lever until we press the release lever again. When
pressed a second time, the trigger dog post will slide on the finger 4 and
the shoulder of the lever will move from the bend of the rocker arm. The
rocker slides down and closes the shutter petals. Here it is necessary to
ensure that the shoulder of the lower arm is slightly

36
longer than the shoulder of the upper arm. This is necessary so that at
first the upper lever can enter under the bend of the rocker arm, and when
pressed again, when the upper arm holds the bend, the lower lever could
not enter and again hold the bend of the rocker arm, and, consequently,
the levers. pistils open.

When all of the above interaction of the knots and levers of the
shutter mechanism is well checked and adjusted, the shutter will
accurately and reliably count down the shutter speed set on the speed
scale.

FITTING THE LENS TO THE CAMERA

Fitting the lens to the camera " Photocor-1 " coupled with the precision
of setting the shutter, lens arm and focal plane of frosted glass. When
performing this work, first of all, it is necessary to ensure that the lens
mount is strictly perpendicular to the camera base and remains parallel
with respect to the focal plane of the ground glass. If the post is skewed,
it is calibrated and positioned so that it is in the correct position.
Sometimes for this you have to disassemble the stand in the base and
rivet the connection with the block (dm. Section " Lens stand mechanism ", p.
2 one).

After the stand is installed correctly, the lens shutter is inserted into
place and secured with a screw ring. Then set the slide to its original
position, lock them with the ratchet and pull the rack out to the stop
position at ∞.

Opening the lens, check the sharpness of its aiming at ∞ on frosted

glass.
If for a sharp image it is required to bring the lens closer to the
frosted glass, then remove the spacers between the shutter and the lens
board. If it turns out that in order to achieve sharpness it is necessary to
move the lens forward, then do the opposite: put paper spacers-rings
under the shutter.

When fitting the lens, you must view the degree of sharpness of the
image through a magnifying glass. After the final focusing, set the footage
scale so that the arrow of the objective stand exactly coincides with the ∞
sign,

37
 In addition, to obtain a sharp image, it is also necessary to correctly
match the plane of the ground glass with the plane of the photographic
plate. To do this, using a depth gauge and a ruler, they achieve the
correct position in terms of the depth of the ground glass and a
photographic plate in the cassette. Their planes should be at the same
depth from the base of the stop and not skewed.

The frosted glass frame itself, being placed in the grooves of the
camera, should not have any backlash along the length of the optical axis,
since even with a minimum frame backlash, the final focusing of the lens
gets lost.
In addition, when fitting the lens to the camera, make sure that both
of its components are screwed into the shutter body, otherwise the focus
of the lens is also out of order, and the ∞ position is incorrectly set.

As a rule, all lenses in lenses are secured with washers and

threaded holders. However, in some chambers ( " Photocor-1 ") there are
shutters in which the objective lenses are fixed in the frames with spring
rings. When adjusting such lenses, you should check - whether the
lenses are tightly clamped and whether the snap rings are correctly
positioned in the tube groove.
 CHAPTER 3

CAMERAS „ MOSCOW"

Based on the design of the camera " Moscow " Several models of this
camera were released, each new model being more advanced than the
previous one.

We do not need to dwell on the first models of cameras of this type,

as their device can be considered on more sophisticated recent models -
" Moscow- 4" and " Moscow- 5".

Cameras type " Moscow " work on roller film. They can take eight
pictures in size
6x9 cm. When installing a spare frame in the camera 6X6 cm number of
shots increases to 1 2.
Due to the special arrangement of spacers and levers, when the lock
button is pressed simultaneously with the opening of the lid, the frame is
automatically set.

The camera is equipped with a lock, which excludes the possibility of

repeated shooting for one frame, and a control window with a red filter for
counting the taken frames.
On the side of the camera, there is a rangefinder device connected
to the lens. Lens " Industar- 23 "
built into the body of the central lens shutter " Moment- 23 FROM ".

CAMERA BODY

Back cover apparatus is mounted on a hinge. The hinge is covered

with cloth gluing, damage or peeling of which leads to exposure of
negative material.

When correcting, tear off the old, damaged glue and. replace it with a
new one (length 72 mm, width
39
6 mm). The new cloth is dried
so that about
apply a layer of glue to it. In this state, the cloth is kept 2-3 min and glued
into place.
The cover of the film clamp is damaged. In this case
check the location of its plane. If the flap is bent, it is leveled and only
then put into place. When installing the shield, first insert the tongues of
the two upper springs, and then the tongue of the third

Figure: 32. Removing Camera Wrap and Deco

active shield

springs. The third tab is difficult to insert, so after it enters the first slot, its
tip is pressed against the tip of the knife, helping to enter the second slot.
When installing the flap, it is necessary to find such a position when the
flap easily fits into the springs. To do this, the flap must be tightly pressed
against the lid itself. If the flap holding springs are pressed strongly
against the base of the cover, they are lifted and installed so that they
spring well.

Damaged red filter ( control window

films, fig. 32). Corrected as follows.
A brush dipped in alcohol moistens the back cover pasting. Then take a
wet wrung out cloth, folded three to four times, and put it on the place of
peeling. A hot iron is applied to the fabric and held until the lid is well
warmed up.

40
After that, remove the iron and fabric and separate the pasting from the
lid. Using the tip of a knife or a screwdriver, carefully fold back four
tendrils from the inside of the cover and separate the decorative shield
from the side where the lining was glued. If the transparent red plate is
not badly damaged, it can be turned over and installed with the other end
(you can replace the light filter with a plate made of red celluloid or
plexiglass in size

20x30 mm and thick 0.5 mm). Having installed the light filter, fix the
casing, check the valve movement and glue the pasting.

Front cover lock faults are eliminated as follows.

If the front cover does not open when pressing the lock button or
additional efforts are required to open, then the extreme ledge of the
spring plate is pressed downward. This should be done very carefully so
as not to bend the rest of the plate.

If the lock does not hold and the front cover bounces off all the time,
then the ledge is bent up. You need to bend it a little, all the time
checking how the lid is locked.

In case the lock is broken off or badly damaged, it is made anew

from a steel plate 1 mm. Plate width 5 mm, and length from rivet line 1 8 mm.

To install a new lock, two rivet heads are carefully drilled from the
inside at a slight angle. Having separated the damaged lock from the
camera, a new one is made, taking into account the above dimensions.
The finished lock is installed and temporarily riveted with lead rivets.

If the lock does not fit perfectly when closing the lid, take into
account its mismatch and correct it. After an exact fit, the lock is installed
and riveted with copper rivets.

MECHANISM OF FILM MOVEMENT AND

RELEASE LEVERS

Incorrect installation of the frame leads to damage to negative

material. To avoid scratches on the emulsion layer, the frame is carefully
checked and sanded.
4 one
and then polish the pins her sun
and burrs.
Frequent damage to negative material is caused by the jamming of
the auxiliary rollers installed along the edges of the focal frame.
Scratches from rollers can be at full frame length or on. throughout the
film.

Rollers jam eliminated as follows.

The rollers are removed from the frame ears and examined. If it is
found that the surface of the rollers is rough in places or affected by
corrosion, they are polished with a

Figure: 33. Screws fastened Figure: 34. Fixing mechanism

lazy limb and flap device

couscous or polishing paste. Pay attention to the roller axes. In case of

significant wear of the axles, the rollers are replaced with new ones. If
the surface of these rollers is good, new axles can be inserted.

Having cut the worked axes to the base, they mark a recess with a
core point for accurate installation of the drill in the center. Having picked
up the drill so that it is slightly larger than the holes of the ears, drill a
recess to
4-5 mm. Then they take brass wire, make pins of the appropriate
diameter and length from it, and press them into rolls. The ends of the
axles are sawn off so that each end of the axle is no more than 1 - one, 5 mm.
When setting the axles in place, first insert one end and then push in the
other and check the rotation of the roller.

There is a shutter release button near the film movement dial and a
small round hole underneath

42
with which the lever with a red spot operates, causing the setting of a
new frame and the release of the shutter release button. The release
button is designed so that it can be operated through it by means of the
release cable. Malfunctions
different. Ras-
look at the basics work
retainer. You
metal
limbe (Fig. 3
cover. On tue
trigger button
includes one item
34). This p
figured washers
set aside and painted over with red paint 5, which serves as a signal
supply through the hole in the cover. On the lever 4 presses one end of
the spring and thus Figure: 35. Installation

friction washer
presses it against the sleeve.
On the film transfer axis 3 the friction washer is put on 2 ( fig. 35). The
bottom of the washer has two shoulder shoulders and is clamped by the
spring washer so that it can slip. Upper pin one ( fig. 36) serves for

rigid limb connection

4 ( fig. 33). When rewinding the film,
one of the hangers 4
( fig. 35) captures the bend of the lever 4
( fig. 34) and
pulls it out of the slot of the sleeve,
liberating
movement of the release button.
Inside buttons there is
vertical slot 3, in
which is inserted flat
spatula 4 ( fig. 36), serving
Figure: 36. Details of the trigger and chaya for pushing out
fixing devices lever from the button and for
work with a cable. When the shutter release button is released, the
shutter is released at the right moment. At the same time, the spatula

43
bevels the lever 4 ( fig. 34) from the shoulder of the friction washer and
removes the red signal.
Release button stuck. Having disassembled the button, with a cloth,
soaked in gasoline, remove impurities from it. If jamming occurs while
working with a cable, take out the spatula, straighten it on the anvil,
clean it with sandpaper, wipe it and insert it into place. The spatula has
an oval bevel on one side, and on the other - rectangular ledge. It is
necessary to pay attention to this when inserting the spatula into the
sleeve and insert it with an oval bevel towards the limb.

There is a spring on the pin next to the red spot, which presses on the
lever at one end 4 ( fig. 34). With the weakening of this spring and the fuzzy
operation of the lever, the end of the spring is bent so that it presses more
strongly on the bend of this lever.

To return the figured washer to its original position, there is a spiral

spring 6. When the figured washer is attracted by the limb to the ledge one,
and when the shutter is released, the lever is reset 4, then the coil spring
at the moment of the release button return upwards returns the washer
and closes the release button.

If this washer is seized or the spring is loose 6

disassemble the entire mechanism assembly, clean and install the
washer so that it can easily snap off with the help of a spring, returning to
its place. If the spring is loose and does not work vigorously enough,
replace it with a new one. There are two lugs on the bottom of the friction
washer one and 2 ( fig. 36), by which the friction washer is retained on the
spring 2 ( fig. 34). If the washer breaks off this spring, then the spring is
carefully bent upwards and, with the help of the screw that secures it, is
installed so that its work is consistent with the stop of the figured washer.
During the final assembly of the mechanism, it is necessary to ensure
that all levers, washers and springs are firmly and correctly seated in
their places, and especially that the friction washer adheres well to the
spring 2 and firmly sat on its edge.

Shutter release transmission from the release button by means of

two auxiliary levers
one and 2 ( fig. 37), which are located on the camera under the fur. Lever
arm 2 mounted on the camera body with a bracket and holes in its ears. The
lever moves to the left when

44
pressing the release button and returns back using a spiral spring. Swing
arm one fixed on the lid and held by two pins inserted into the holes of
two small brackets

Figure: 37. Shutter release levers

new The front of the lever comes out to the bolt and can press its trigger.
The back of the lever has a slit, which is put on the bend of the lever 2. Thus,
when you press the button, the movement is transferred to the lever 2, a he,
in turn, presses the bend on the lever one, which presses the shutter
release with its upper part. The entire mechanism of the levers is located
so that when the front cover is closed, they fit without disturbing their
position. However, very often from careless handling of the camera,
especially with inept

closing front
cover, interaction is disrupted Figure: 38. Release the
lever
shutter popped out
auxiliary levers. bracket
Violation work
auxiliary lever 2 usually comes from
heavy pollution and corrosion of its undercarriages.
Unscrewing the lens mount ring, remove the shutter from the stand
and make repairs.
45
 If the front cover is suddenly closed, the lever may jump out. 2 from
the bracket hole / (Fig. 38).
The repair is carried out as follows: the shutter and fur are separated from the
camera, the lever is inserted into place and the rear bracket is bent so that there is
as little fractional play in the lever as possible.

Carefully checking the connection lever engagement of

the entire trigger system of the trigger button. After
checking, installed
attach the fur and zak with a
clamping ring.
Aiming frame video
opening the front roof
simultaneously opens
frame viewfinder. IN closed
position, the frame is held by its lug by a flat movable
hook. In the event of a malfunction of the lock, the
frame either does not keep in the closed position, or
does not
Figure: 39. Off - opens by pressing the button
sighting lock.
framework If the frame does not open, then
shown in fig. 39 an eyelet, squeeze as needed to the side. If the frame
spontaneously bounces and does not keep in the closed position, the tab
is squeezed. Do this carefully, taking into account the movement of the
hook to open and

closing the sighting frame.

In some cases
sighting frame
viewfinder strong
leans back (shown
in the same fig. 39). To even out
the tilt of the frame,
necessary unscrew Fig. 40. Pivot points of sight
available on dashboard noah frame
rangefinder two screws and
protective glass on the back. With a steel scribe or a thin punch, two
support ears are removed one and 2 ( fig. 40), which are under the frame.

46
 SHUTTER MECHANISM

Disassembly shutter. Camera " Moscow "

equipped with a central shutter " Moment- 23 FROM ". This
the shutter is very durable and provides an extremely accurate
countdown of exposure. Gate
the quality of parts, however
can be repaired.
Gate " Moment- 23 FROM "
the size of the device is rather
bears additional on
complicated only to open the front
rangefinder mechanism
of its
even the smallest violations.
therefore at disassembly shutter
it is necessary to strictly monitor
how each part is located, and the detail. In
remembering its connection with another is required
addition, when disassembling, care and accuracy.
exceptional Figure: 41. Deleting
expansion joint shield

First of all, the back lens is unscrewed,

memorizing or marking its attachment point. Then

Figure: 42. Dismantling the expansion joint

unscrew the screw shown in fig. 4 1, and remove the protective shield
from the compensator. After that, the location of the wedge lenses
located in the compensator system is marked with red paint 4 ( fig. 42).

47
Unscrewing the screw from the aiming union 3, remove the decorative
washer 2. If the washer does not come out of its recess, take a plug,
grease it with hot wax and stick it to the washer. When the wax is
stagnant
will
cabbage
unscrew
nascent
screw and
aiming
back
take off
separate
the system
be sure to remember this
the connection points are found, and the
ring lens, on
which has a scale
Figure: 43. Mounting screws decorative footage,
leg shield set to ∞.
Further
unscrew the three retaining screws located on the circumference of the
lens ring one ( fig. 42). After that it is necessary
delete
four screws one, 2, 3, 4,
located on the dashboard
lens (Fig. 43), and then remove
the shield by pulling it up. Under
the flap are
not-
fixed gear
3 and transmission ring
2 ( fig. 44). They are removed
carefully, trying not
displace frame one.
By removing these details,
sharp point scribes Figure: 44. connection
Intermediate mechanism
of the optical unit with
mark that position compensator mechanism
the frame in which it was originally installed at ∞. After putting a mark,
unscrew
48
the first part of the frame is inserted, the
steel is inserted into the slot; the arrows
are unscrewed
front component.
On the reverse side, pull out two
screws /, 2 ( fig. 45) for lining 3 on the
rear side There are three screws on
the front panel one, 2, 3

turning (p Each of the screws turning

half a turn,
shift
slightly counterclockwise and remove it from the shutter, thereby
exposing the speed division ring. The ring is not secured by anything
and Fig. 45. Removal of metal

removed without any difficulty. Under the face lining

the ring is the entire system of the shutter speed mechanism.

Figure: 46. Panel fixing screws

Cleaning the shutter. To clean the shutter, it must be

disassembled. Unscrewing three screws from the back of the shutter one,
2, 3 ( fig. 47), remove the entire mechanism from the body, and then
remove the petals attached to the inner bridge of the gate (Fig. 48). After
removing the petals, remove the ring. For this with a special screwdriver,
which

49
easy to do by yourself, unscrew two screws 2 and 3
and remove the ring one.
Further disassembly is to remove all
bolt levers and anchor
bellows
procrastinator about
growth).
If on
got grease
very dirty
need ra
Everything is disassembled
put on
time in benz
queues
first a bridge, then a block of slow
speeds, etc.
Figure: 47. Mechanism fastening screws. Each removed from
ma shutter gasoline part good
cleans hair
brush, wipe off with a clean cloth and replace. After all the main levers
are cleaned and set in place, the petals are laid. The petals are laid in
order so that the subsequent petal when

opening slid by
surfaces earlier
laid petal.
You need to fix the petals
Caution - the screws have a rim,
which when clamped sharply
can spoil
petal hole. Slow
turning a screwdriver, everything
try time, stirring the babble, how it
gets fixed. AND
only when it feels Figure: 48. Shutter petals
that the screw has entered all the way, and
the petal is free, the final screw is tightened.

After all the petals are fixed, the fur

fifty
Nizm is inserted into the valve body. When inserting the housing, you
must be very careful that the synchro-contact is located
mustache, not bent and right-
well combined on the bridge (/ and 2 in fig.
49). This is relative ke that presses
movable to
established
contact. Pos
khanism will be in
pinned wine
work lepes
act
Synchronous contact
check also because the slightest
displacement of them leads either to a
complete failure of their work, or
to wrong
closure, and hence Figure: 49. Location of syn-
breaking hrokontacts in the shutter
synchronization outbreaks from
discovery petals shutter. Check work
sync contacts produced following way:
pull the lever with your right thumb 3 ( fig. 49) until
the blades reach the full opening of the lens.
During lever shift

3 after it the contact / will also move. In this case,

the closure of the contacts must occur exactly at
the moment when the petals reach full opening.

Having checked the operation of the sync

contacts in this way, they perform further
the next assembly of the mechanism.

Figure: fifty. Syn- Synchronizer installation. Syn-

contact the chrome structure consists of two small thin
nests plates of silver ( 6 in fig. fifty).

One of these plates is connected to a thin metal tube one, and the
second - with valve body. To the tube one did not touch the mass of the
shutter, it is well insulated with another tube 5, which is manufactured

5 one
from the sheet
pokes into the main fitting (tube) 3, which is inserted into the valve up to the
flange 2. The socket inserted into the shutter is riveted using a core drill
along the edge of the side 4.
When connecting the socket to the plug of the flash tube of the tube 1
and 3 are an extension of the lamp poles. It is enough to connect these
tubes, and a closed circuit is immediately formed. This is achieved by
means of silver plates, which the shutter mechanism automatically

Figure: 5 1. Sizes of tubes of sync

nests

closes among themselves. To install sync contacts in the central gate,

first, a copper tube is made 3 ( fig. fifty). Then remove all upper parts from
the bolt except for the bolt mechanism. The location of the levers
determines the most advantageous place for closing the contacts by the
mechanism (see. one and 2 in fig. 49), mark the place of drilling and,
having removed the entire mechanism from the body, drill a hole for the
socket with a three-millimeter drill. A manufactured tube is inserted into
the hole 3

( fig. 5 1) and from the inside of the shutter, the rim is riveted with a core.
Then from the inside of the shutter into the tube 3 insert a loom 2

until it stops against the flange. Into the conduit 2 insert the copper tube /.
Its outer end is installed at a general level, and the inner one should
protrude from top to bottom by no more than 0.5 mm for soldering
contact. After installing the socket, thoroughly clean the housing from
possible clogging and insert the shutter mechanism.

52
Fastening the mechanism with screws to the tube one ( fig. fifty) solder
contact. Contact must be no longer than 1 0 mm,
its width is 1, 5 mm, and thickness 0.5 mm.
Before soldering, one end is filed a little so that it can enter the tube.
When the contact enters the tube, it is bent so that it is located without
touching any of the shutter levers. The contact is then soldered to the
tube. Then to the lever 3 ( see fig.

49) solder the second contact so that it can move without touching the
other levers. Its end is bent over and adjusted to the moment of closing.
When the lever 3 opens the petals, the contact moves with it and, in
contact with the second lever, closes the circuit. See below for the fine
adjustment of contact closure. The main structure of the sync contacts of
the central gate is shown in Fig. 49.

The indicated location of the sync contacts is optional. There are

many different locations for sync contacts in the shutter mechanism.
When establishing contacts, one should adhere to the basic rule: when
the petals are fully open, contact

one should close with contact 2 and immediately after closing the petals
to open.
During the final check, care must be taken to ensure that the
contacts work clearly and do not connect to other levers.

Repair of some components of the shutter mechanism can be done

without completely disassembling the shutter, so that the plateau or bridge
- cast inner part, on which all levers of the mechanism are mounted, - remained
in the valve body.

Rangefinder aiming system jammed

comes from the tight rotation of the worm frame of the focusing lens.
Having disassembled the upper part of the shutter and turning the frame,
as mentioned above, wipe the worm passage with a cloth soaked in
gasoline, trying not to contaminate the lenses. After removing all the old
grease, carefully apply a new one and, turning the frame, scroll it several
times until it rotates lightly and smoothly. If the operation of the systems
has not improved, then a little fine lapping powder is applied to the
lubricant, a worm is screwed in and lapped by rotating the frame in
different directions. Then carefully remove the lubricant from both
threads, wipe it well and apply a new layer of lubricant.

53
 In all cases need s
chime out point orke che
hit the st again
When connected over
need blowing howl gro
to remove from
Power spring thief. E
at the ry plant feel
spring resistance, and when the shutter is pressed, the shutter does not
work, then for repair, disassemble the shutter before removing the speed
divider ring and carefully examine the mechanism. If it turns out that the
power spring 4 lever plant / (Fig. 52) fell off the holder, remove this lever
and when

Figure: 52. Power shutter lever with Figure: 53. Mechanism

spring shutter without power
th ring

using round-nose pliers bend the spring loop 5. If the spring is weakened
and stretched, it is replaced with a new one, it is well fixed on the lever
and bend 3, put the lever in place, put the spring loop on the pin-holder
located under the trigger, and check the spring action. When installing
the ring lever in place, it is necessary to squeeze the canine of the
anchor one ( fig. 53), sector pin 2 and hook 5.

If, when the shutter is wound up, the lever is not locked in the factory
position, and is triggered randomly, then the
54
the nose of the hook was wrinkled. In this case, a new hook must be
installed.
To do this, unscrew the socket under the hook and take out the entire system.
Having clamped the hook in a vice, they drill the place of its attachment to the pin.
Then the pin is knocked out of the hook and a new one is cut out according to the
sample. The gripper spout is adjusted along the annular lever.

Shutter malfunction when installed on

" IN ". The malfunction occurs due to a violation of the interaction of
the levers 2 and 4 ( fig. 54).

Figure: 54. Adjusting the levers to work on " IN "

When the shutter is released, the ring lever, during the full disclosure
of the petals, with its bend, on which the spring is attached, rests against
the bend 3 lever 2 and thus keeps the petals open all the time while the
release lever is pressed, which presses the lever 4 to bend the lever

2. In case of violation of the correct position of the bend 3 on the lever 2 the
lever moves back and does not delay the shoulder of the ring lever for
opening the petals to " IN ". When troubleshooting, remove the lever 2, heat
it on fire until dark red and straighten the bend 3 so that it is strictly
perpendicular to the plane of the lever itself. After correction, the lever is
set in place and the operation of the shutter is checked. In this case, it
may turn out that when installed on " IN " the shutter does not work again.
The reason may be that the bend is not made correctly. one on the lever 2.

The correctness of the bend is controlled in the following way. A

speed division ring is installed on the shutter
one ( fig. 55), turn it clockwise until it stops by " IN " and check how it fits
into the cut 3 bend 2.
55
The bend should it's time to leverage under
ring shutter sew into the cutout, not by the
must concern wall of the cutout
and bend should If the bend is
run into st walks to the side
and will not delay the bend of the
power ring in the position where
uncovered petals.
Ring slip through on
instantaneous speed.
Disruption of the petal
kov. Disclosure petals
produced with a lever 7 ( fig. 54). The
lever has an oblong hole

the part that contains the petal ring pin.

When pressed by the movable sector 2

power lever one ( fig. 52) to bend the

lever at the point 8 ( fig.
54) there is its displacement and thus
the opening of the petals. Closing them
comes from pressing the power lever one

( fig. 52) per tooth nine ( fig. 54). For

auxiliary actions
closing the petals on the bend 8
Figure: 55. Ring installation
division of speeds
spring acting one 0. When
displacement of this spring or in
in the event of its breakage, the petals jam, since the lever itself begins
to move arbitrarily.
Eliminating the malfunction, the spring is inserted into the bend point 8.
In this case, it is necessary to bend the spring so that it presses well on
the bend.
If the spring is broken, it is re-fabricated from steel wire with a
diameter 0.3-0.4 mm.
Violation of slow speeds can
occur from a malfunction of the anchor device, or, as it is also called, the
clock mechanism. The connections of the gears of this mechanism
become dirty, and the gears jam and the operation of the entire shutter
mechanism is slowed down.

56
 In addition, a general displacement of the entire device of the mechanism
block may occur. 2 ( fig. 56). Then check how the fastening screw is tightened.

Figure: 56. Slow speed mechanism

unscrew the fastening screws 3 and one, take it out and immerse it in
gasoline for a few minutes. The mechanism is then brushed and dipped
back into fresh gasoline.

Figure: 57. Installation of the speed division ring

This is repeated three to four times, after which the mechanism is dried
with an air jet and installed in place.
Lubrication is recommended only in cases where the mechanism is
severely worn or damaged by corrosion.
If, when set to the speed, the shutter does not work accurately, that
is, the speed is longer or shorter, - adjust the alignment of the anchor
bend 4 and pin
one ( fig. 57), which limits the supply of the sector gear
57
renki ledge 2 on the speed ring. Anchor bend
4 adjustable lip 3 on the speed ring. Being on the lower stage, the anchor
block is switched on, and the entire clockwork acts to slow down the
speeds. Moreover, the exact reading of speeds is regulated by a pin one, which
for this is moved to one side or the other of the curve of the protrusion 2 on
the speed ring. The further the curve of the ledge 2 will move the pin
away from the center, the shorter the speed of the petals will be, and,
conversely, the less the pin is displaced from the center, the longer the
shutter speed will be, since the bend on the power ring will have to linger
much longer on the sector gear until it passes all the way.

When the shutter is operating at speeds of 1 / 28 sec and shorter dividing ring
with your shoulder 3 pushes back the bend 4
and turns it off in interaction with the power lever.
To restore the exact operation of the bolt, a speed division ring is
installed and by winding and lowering at different speeds the interaction
of the operation of all levers and assemblies of the anchor block and
ledges on the divider ring is checked.

If there is any mismatch, the places of the grooves and protrusions

on the speed ring are cut or pulled back.
On the pin 5 ( fig. 54) spiral spring installed 6, the upper end of which
has a hook-like bend for abutting the speed ring. The lower, straight end
fits on the bend of the power ring. Until the pitch ring abuts against the
hook-shaped end of the spring, it is always in a free state

standing. When the speed is set to 1 / 250 sec the speed ring abuts against
the hook-shaped end of the spring and
sets it so that its lower end abuts against the bend of the power lever,
which enhances the work of the lower
scoring mechanism with exposure to 1 / 250 sec. The spring almost never
breaks, but when it is installed and installed
In addition to the power ring, it is necessary to ensure the correct
positioning of the lower end of the spring.

AUXILIARY UNITS AND ADJUSTMENT

" Moscow- 5" - camera with some improvements over the camera " Moscow-
4". Principle diagram of the kinematic arrangement of mechanisms

58
remains largely based on the previous model. The camera has a
four-element coated lens " Indu- old- 24 ", whose focal length is 1 05 mm and
relative aperture 1: 3.5. The lens is mounted in the central shutter " Moment-
24 FROM " with self-timer.

The body of the camera is die-cast, which makes the camera much
stronger than other models. The case has a hinged back cover. The
camera is equipped with an optical viewfinder of a telescopic system,
mounted in a rigid metal case. On the upper wall of the body there is a
head with a red mark, against which two rectangles are drawn, showing
the dimensions of the frame 6x6 and 6x9 cm.

Consider the repair of units excluded from the previous description.

Check filter lock. In case of violation

the operation of the lock and plate shutters covering the control windows,
remove the hold-down plate and repair the antennae, correcting and
bending them.
Repair of the release button locking system and replacement of
damaged parts of the optical device.
The upper plate with the inscription is removed " Moscow- 5". There are
no fixing screws on this shield. It is fastened using frames located on
both sides of the shield. Therefore, before removing the shield, it is
necessary to unscrew the fastening limb for moving the film. Then
unscrew the two frames from the front side and the frame of the viewing
window. Detach the flap very carefully, gradually pulling it up and shaking
it. If the flap does not come off, then take a plastic or wooden stick and
try to pry the flap from below.

Self-timer mechanism. Rough handling of the camera sometimes

stops the self-timer from working. For repair it is necessary to
disassemble the valve (see section " Cleaning the shutter ", p. 49). After
disassembly, unscrew the screws securing the clockwork unit and take it
out of the bolt. The removed unit is cleaned in the same way as
described in section " Cleaning the shutter ".

Distance measuring system alignment in cameras

" Moscow- 4" and " Moscow- 5" produced by the method of reconnecting
the optical system. There are three main faults in the rangefinder system:

59
Chenot interaction op
the focal point has changed
focusing units connected by a gear transmission.

To restore the alignment of image sharpness with the rangefinder

system, first of all, the rangefinder operation should be restored. To do
this, unscrew the screw from the fitting of the aiming ring and remove the
decorative washer. There are two screws under the washer 2 ( fig. 58). Screws

turn on one / 2 - 3/4 turnover, as a result of which the clutch between the
compensator mechanism and the
the middle component of focusing.

Figure: 58. Compensator joints

Having installed the compensator in the working position, set the

rangefinder to ∞ and, by rotating the union 3, observe the movement of
the moving image, which must move left and right. After that, the image
is brought to complete alignment and the accuracy of coincidence of the
two images is checked. If in the course of alignment there is some
horizontal discrepancy of the images, the optical wedges are adjusted
separately. If ghosting of images horizontally is insignificant, then it is not
difficult to correct it by turning the front wedge through small angles 4 to a
complete coincidence horizontally. Before the wedge is displaced, its
frame is circled with a brush dipped in alcohol to soften the silk glue,
which fixes the wedge from arbitrary rotation.

If the wedge system is completely broken, then for adjustment,

remove the decorative shield of the compensator,
60
unscrew the fitting screws 2 ( fig. 58) enough to disengage the pinion from
the lower gear (fig. 59).
After that, to align horizontally, the wedges are set by shifting the gears.
To control the horizontal alignment, observation is carried out when the
rangefinder is installed in the working position.

After aligning the optical wedges, connect the gear, tighten the
screws and check the operation of the range meter when it is set to ∞. If
at the same time the registration of images is violated, the rangefinder

are adjusted to full alignment at ∞, as mentioned

above.
After full alignment of the images in the
rangefinder is achieved when set to ∞, without
ghosting
images by
horizontally, without shifting the alignment, fix
the screws 2 on the fitting
pickup (see Fig. 58).
Further adjustment of the device
is to adjust the lens itself. This requires Figure: 59. Combination
optical wedges
remove the ring scale one. by dividing the she-
stalk
By unscrewing the three locking screws,
located on its circumference, remove the ring scale. The device is
installed motionless and is directed to ∞ by the rangefinder. In the focal
plane, the frames reinforce the glass with a matte surface to the lens.

Rotating slowly the front lens frame, observe the image on the
frosted glass through a magnifying glass. Having achieved full sharpness
on frosted glass, they make a small correction for film deformation in the
camera. This requires an offset of the front lens by 1 - one, 5 mm along the
length of its outer diameter by turning to the left. After displacing the lens
barrel, carefully put on the distance scale ring. In this case, it is necessary
to ensure that the groove on the ring finds itself on the bend of the
rangefinder ring rotating on the outer diameter of the lens barrel. Place
the ring on the barrel, tighten the set screws and check the alignment
when the lens is set to ∞,

3 and 1, 5 m. With accurate aiming, there should not be a double

6 one
images, and when pointing to 3 and 1, 5 m the discrepancy between the
corresponding divisions of the distance scale with the index should not exceed 1, 5 mm
along the length of the outer part of the distance scale.

When replacing one lens with another, the old shutter with a new
one, or when replacing the entire unit (lens with shutter), first of all, check
- is the front focusing lens set to ∞. If, when checking, it turns out that the
front lens system set to ∞ does not give accurate and distinct sharpness,
make the correction for sharpness without removing the camera shutter.
When the highest point of sharpness of the lens is found and set, the
front lens barrel is fixed and only then the shutter is separated from the
camera.

When installing the shutter on another camera, the focus is adjusted

by lining (or removing) paper rings under the reference plane of the
shutter. To do this, it is necessary to mount the camera on a tripod,
attach a frosted glass to the focal plane, and attach the shutter without
finally strengthening it. After that, the measuring ring is set to ∞, the
aperture is fully opened and the sharpness is checked.

After setting the value of the sharpness correction, the rings are
inserted or removed and tightly tightened the lens mount ring.
 CHAPTER 4. PHOTOAP

„ FROM

PHOTOUPP

Camera " Lover " is a tough plastic camera equipped with two lenses.
Main lens " T- 22 " serves to transfer the image to photographic film (the
aperture scale - 4.5; 5.6; 8;

eleven; one 6; 22— located on the side of the central gate.

Figure: 60. Rear Cover Locks

The shutter speed scale is also located here: " IN ";

eleven 0; one / 25; one / fifty ; eleven 00; one / 200; sec). The second lens serves for focusing

the image in sharpness. Scale of races

positions allows you to aim the lens from
one, 3 m to ∞.
Does not close, the viewfinder visor bounces off.
The correct bending of the locking antennae is disturbed. Carefully bend
the outer tendril of the cover inward with pliers
3 ( fig. 60) or fold the inner antennae outward (on

63
figure it is not visible). should be
very careful
constipation.
Locks rear to
eliminated by the following about
back cover and fold
( one and 2 in fig. 60). If the spring-loaded foot has been pulled out of the
rivets, the remaining ends of the rivets are cut down to the base and
knocked out with a punch. Then two aluminum rivets are made exactly
along the holes, they are inserted into the holes, the legs are put on them
and the rivets are riveted from the inside of the cover. For riveting under
the rivets, an anvil plane is inserted from the back side.

The rollers of the film are seized. Rollers, by

by which the film moves (Fig. 6 1), sometimes jam or do not scroll at all.
This is because

Figure: 6 1. Fixing jamming

rollers

the rollers are strongly pressed against the frame or the ears, through
which the axial ends of the roller pass, clamped them from the sides. In
most cases, this results in scratches on the negatives.

To eliminate this malfunction, remove the frame from the device, after
pulling off the frame locking bar with a screwdriver (Fig. 6 one). Then, with the
edge of a knife, the roller is pulled away from the frame, first from one side, and
then from the other (Fig. 62). The distance between the roller and the frame
should not exceed 1 mm. In the second case, the ears are squeezed away from
the roller, inserting between the roller and the ear-

64
blade of knife. Having wrung out the ears a little, try the rotation of the
roller. Having achieved free rotation of the roller, set the frame in its
place.

Figure: 62. Pulling the roller away from the frame

Limb lock. The limb of the film movement does not fix the tension of
the film and unwinds in the opposite direction (the end of the fixed

screaming springs). Malfunction

eliminated by replacing the spring. To do this, take
a steel wire with a diameter 0.8
mm, heat it red-hot and, letting it gradually cool,
wind it on
rod with a diameter of 11 mm six
turns, saw off the ends, bend Figure: 63. Spring
one end long 2.5 mm ( fig. 63). limb rewind films
Then manufactured spring
hardened. After that, the spring is put on the clutch, the factory limb is set
and fixed with a screw.
Mirror. To replace the damaged mirror, the screws located near the
target lens are unscrewed by two or three turns. After all screws are
loosened, the visor is fully pushed forward and removed from the
camera. Then the lens and the frame on which it is installed are
removed. The mirror is removed and replaced with a new one.

The new mirror must have the exact dimensions and external
silvering. After the mirror is in place, put on the frame, then the lens,
install the visor and tighten all the screws.

3 M.F. Yakovlev 65
Focusing on the frosted glass of the reticle. If focusing is missed,
unscrew, three locking screws on the target lens barrel (Fig. 64) and,
having removed it, proceed to the adjustment. Using a magnifying glass,
aim the camera lens at a distant object that has

nice and bright outline. Rotating the

reticle
lens in one direction or the other,
seek on
frosted glass greatest
sharpness of the image. Then
pencil or better
white paint mark
position lens and
adjust main
Figure: 64. Stopper location lens located in
rim screws shutter rim. Do it
as follows: open the rear wall of the camera, apply frosted glass, open
the lens shutter (with a full aperture aperture) and rotate the knurled disc
frame to find the highest degree of image sharpness. Now, trying not to
displace the lens, they put on the sighting lens a frame with meter
division so that the ∞ sign is opposite the arrow. After fastening the three
locking screws, check the alignment of the lenses by aiming them at an
object. If there is even a slight discrepancy in the installation of the
lenses, the adjustment must be repeated, trying to achieve the ideal
result.

Synchronizer installation. To install the synchronizer, you need to

disassemble the shutter. First of all, you must unscrew the three locking
screws on the barrel of the target lens in the same way as when
adjusting. Then the knurled lens ring is unscrewed from the shutter - the
ring is unscrewed together with the front lens.

There is an eccentric disc under the lens ring, on which two holes
are visible (see Fig. 68— eccentric " Lover " looks like. eccentric " Shifts "). The
points of a special key or the ends of needle-nose pliers are inserted into
the holes, and the eccentric is turned so that it is released from the
groove of the frame. Turning the dial to the

68
counterclockwise, remove it from Then remove the speed
setting dial
( see fig. 69).
When all the simple structure of the shutter mechanism is visible, it will be
easy to determine the installation location of the synchro device. To install the
sync contacts, it is more convenient to separate the entire shutter, for which
the clamping ring is unscrewed from the inside of the camera.

When the trigger is pressed, the movable screw 2

descends from top to bottom during the opening of the petals (Fig. 65).
This is convenient for setting up sync contacts. To
install sync contacts,
it is necessary to free the case from the
mechanism. For of this
unscrew the three screws from the bottom of
the valve body.
About the point where the line one
crosses over body ( fig. 65),
a recess for a drill is planned so as not to
break through the edge of the wall when
drilling. Then carefully drill a hole

under the outlet. The outlet is tightly

reinforced in shutter by
riveting or tightening Figure: 65. A place to settle
threaded nuts ( if new sync contacts ( one)
the connection socket has
thread). (For the device of the connecting socket, see section " Synchronizer
installation ", p. 83).
After fixing the connecting socket, insert the shutter mechanism into
place and secure with screws. Then, a thin silver plate about 1 in length
is soldered to the inner tube. 8-20 mm. The width of the plate should be 1 mm,
and thickness - 0.5 mm .. The free end of the plate is bent 'at an acute
angle and in such a way that the movable screw 2, which is slightly
above the movable pin 3 ( fig. 65), touched the contact just during the full
opening of the petals.

To check the sync device, insert a plug into the connecting socket,
turn on the flash lamp and click the speeds, looking through the shutter
at the reflector lamps.

67
 If the full aperture of the lens is visible when the lamp flashes, the
adjustment and setting are correct. If, on the other hand, parts of the
petals are visible in the lens aperture, then, therefore, the closure occurs
too early and the adjustment should be made anew in such a way as to
eliminate the advance of the contact of the screw with the contact.

After it is established that the operation of the sync contacts is

adjusted correctly enough, the shutter is assembled.

CAMERA „ CHANGE"

Camera " Change "- small format camera of rigid construction.

The camera is equipped with an coated lens " T- 22 "

with aperture scale 4.5; 5.6; 8; eleven; one 6; 22. Shutter cent-
ral with speeds 1/1 0; one/ 25; one/ fifty; 1/1 00; one/ 200; and " IN ".
The camera body is made of plastic. The back cover is hinged. On
the front part of the body there is a shutter with a lens mounted in it and
a viewfinder window. On the outside of the camera there is a film rewind
limb, a frame counter, a button for turning on the rewind mechanism and
a back cover lock.

Focusing is carried out by moving the lens in a worm mount

mounted in the front of the shutter. Lens aiming range from 1, 3 m

to ∞.
The frame counter is activated by turning the eight-pronged drum
while the film is moving.
Hold-down plate on the back of the chamber. The shield is torn
off. Eliminating the malfunction, squeeze out the remaining rivet on the
rear wall and both holes on the spring of the pressure plate and on the
chamber wall are deployed so that they have the same diameters. Then,
exactly along the holes, a copper rivet is made, which has a flat head on
one side. Having inserted a rivet from the outside of the cover, put the
spring of the shield on it. Putting the rivet head on the plane of the anvil,
rivet it with a blunt punch through the hole in the shield.

Back cover. The side hinge holding the camera cover has been
ripped off.
68
 Eliminating the malfunction, take two screws slightly larger than the
diameter of the torn off screws. The screws must be lubricated with oil and
screwed carefully into the hole.
Viewfinder the device does not give a clear definition of the boundaries of the
object being shot (clogged with dust particles). It is necessary against two
unscrew the arrows
Lar viewfinder wrap it around a match
clean cotton wool and pon enter the hole
to the inner viewfinder. Light
movements on rub the lens, changing the
how many times there
that lens and
transparency, n
internal and n
screw in the eyepiece
Frame counter. To from-
prevent the meter from jamming, unscrew
four screws on its cover, remove the spring
ring
from bushings disk from Figure: 66. Frame
apparatus counter "
" Change
divisions 2 ( fig. 66) and removing
gear, clean the teeth first with the end of the needle, and then with a stiff
brush or brush. After cleaning, the gear is lubricated with bone oil, placed
on
place and assemble. Malfunction
consisting in
interruption of the frame count, occurs from the
breakage or bending of the pin. In the first
case need knock out
the remaining part pin of
bushing holes, make a new pin according to
the hole diameter one
( fig. 67) length 1 0 mm and drive into the hole
so that it fits snugly and cannot move. After
that, the pin is sawed off from both ends, and
so that one end of it

Figure: 67. Counter pin had a length of no more than 1, 5 mm, a

other —2.5—3 mm. When assembling
bottom end of the button 2, on which the spring is
( fig. 67), inserted into the hole 3 ( fig. 66). The long end of the pin is
placed in
69
deepening 4, and the short end serves as a stop for the eccentric.

After making sure that the button is seated as indicated above, fix the
cover with screws and check the operation of the meter.

Gate. When repaired, the shutter is released from the lens unit.
Unscrew the three retaining screws located on the cylindrical lens barrel.
By removing

Figure: 68. Eccentric and first Figure: 69. Second ring

bolt ring shutter

screws, remove the ring. It is important to remember the position of the

lens barrel when it is set to ∞. Carefully removing the ring, a mark is
made on the tube against the footage scale and the tube is unscrewed
from the shutter, also noticing where the mark was at the moment when
the tube separated from the shutter. Next, you need to turn the eccentric
on the shutter ring by half a turn (Fig. 68). For this, the sharp ends of the
key are inserted into the holes in it and the eccentric is turned so that it is
released from the slot. Then the ring is turned slightly to the left and
removed from the bolt. The second ring is used to set the speeds; It is
not fixed (Fig. 69). Removing this ring, establish the cause of the
malfunction, the mechanism.

If the job is working with the first fights, and (the petals do not always
open), then the spring has come off, pulling the dog on the lever 5 ( fig. 70).
The correction is done as follows:

70
with tweezers, one end of the spring is inserted into the hole of the
folding dog, and the other end is looped around the rivet and hooked
onto the main lever. When checking the operation of the shutter, the
speed-setting lever 3 must deflect the dog with its vertical ledge, which, in
turn, after

walking ledge return

is expected in initial
position at help
springs. Clicking not
how many times with the shutter and
making sure it is correct
his work, produce
assembly.
Assembly z a t in o r a
produced following
way. Put on first
speed setting ring.
Ring is established
So, to the top
the slot included a rivet, Figure: 70. Shutter mechanism ap-
located on lever, paratha " Change "

gear related 7, and the bent end of the lever located at the cable release
slot should enter the lower slot of the ring. Then put on and secure the
second ring - with an eccentric. For this, there are three protrusions on
the inner diameter of the ring, which enter the recesses on the bolt rim.
The ring is set to the position in which it was removed, turns slightly
clockwise until it stops and is fixed with an eccentric by turning it half a
turn.

If the shutter lever is 3

( fig. 70) It is easily cocked, and when lowering the shutter does not work,
it means that the spring of the lever of the shutter factory is weakened or
unbent. To eliminate the malfunction, unscrew the screw 4 and remove
the lever 3. A new one is made using the damaged spring, taking for this
a wire of the same diameter. Having bent the corresponding curvature of
the spring, it is inserted into place. After tightening the screw to failure,
check the operation of the shutter. If after fixing and installing the lever 3 petals
do not open, check the hook attached to this lever

7 one
with a riveted hinge. The hook is clamped by a spring that is placed on
the hook.
If the shutter blades are faulty - give incorrect exposure or do not
close completely, -
means the escapement gears are clogged. To adjust the operation of the
shutter, use a thin screwdriver to clean the teeth on the lever 6 and gear 7,
connected to it. After removing the blockage, they are assembled as
mentioned above.

When a job does not work " IN ",

malfunction occurs due to deformation of the lever one
or from over-tightening the screw 2.
First, unscrew the screw 2, remove the lever one
and align it so that it interacts freely with other levers.

In the second case, by unscrewing the screw 2, saw off the place of
the lever where the screw head rests. After checking the correct
operation of the shutter, assemble it. When repairing the shutter, in no
case is it allowed to use force, cut the levers unnecessarily and reinforce
the springs.

Cleaning the wrap. The shutter is cleaned with a brush. Carefully

remove accumulated dust from all parts of the shutter. If the shutter
mechanism is heavily soiled, then the brush should be moistened with
refined gasoline and rinsed off the contamination. After flushing, you must
let the gasoline drain and dry the mechanism.

Synchronizer installation in the apparatus " Change "

is made as follows: on the front of the shutter there is a square cover,
reinforced with four screws. This cover must be removed. To do this,
unscrew the four screws located at the corners of the cover and, prying
the cover with a knife edge or a screwdriver, separate it from the camera.
Having separated the cover from the camera, three screws are
unscrewed from its back side and the shutter is separated from the
board, and then the shutter mechanism is removed from the body. The
shutter mechanism can be freely removed from the body, since it is
fastened with the same screws that secure the body to the lid.

Now you can easily drill a hole for attaching the connecting socket.
In the apparatus
" Change " the place for fixing the socket is more profitable to drill at the point nine
( fig. 70). In this case, the contact plate

72
will be closer to the screw 8, which makes it much easier to adjust the
contact to close it with a screw.
After the sync contacts have been installed, as mentioned earlier, the
sync device is assembled and tested using a flash lamp.

Installing the lens. To mount a lens with a worm tube, you must
align the marks made when detaching the lens barrel from the shutter.
After aligning the marks and making sure that the worm of the frame has
gone along the thread, screw it in until it stops, and then set the lens to ∞,
gradually unscrewing the tube until the mark aligns with the footage
scale. After that, trying not to move the unit, put on the cylindrical ring
and tighten the locking screws.

Lens alignment. If, after checking and setting the shutter, it turns out
that the lens does not provide the appropriate image sharpness, perform
an adjustment. After unscrewing the retaining screws from the frame and
removing the ring, install the matte glass so that the matte side of the
glass faces the lens. Aiming the apparatus at a distant object, rotate the
lens by the worm-gear in one direction or another until a sufficient
sharpness of the image is formed on the frosted glass. You should look
at the image when aiming with a magnifying glass. After making sure that
the image is sharp, slide on the lens ring and tighten the set screws. For
more accurate alignment, you can use an alignment collimator (see
section " Adjustment devices ", page 11).
 CHAPTER 5

CAMERAS „ FED "I „ ZORKY "

The first models of cameras " FED " and " Vigilant " according to its
device - cameras are of the same type. Works on standard film width 35 mm.

Cameras are equipped with a lens " Industar- 22 " or " Industar- fifty". These
lenses are basic. For special-purpose photography, these lenses can be
replaced with other lenses.

CAMERA BODY

The lock of the lower chamber cover is damaged. The movement

of the film becomes difficult, there is a flare, and when shooting from a
tripod, the camera can break loose and, if dropped, get damaged not only
on the body, but also in the mechanism itself.

To eliminate the malfunction, completely disassemble the lock, clean it

from dirt and check the condition of the thread both in the lock and on the
tightening screw. If the internal thread is torn off, cut a new one according
to the diameter of the selected screw. If the screw turns and does not
secure the lock tongue, it is replaced with a new one.

The tripod socket is relaxed. The tripod socket is often loose in the
camera lid. Subsequently, this leads to the breakdown of the screws,
and sometimes to more serious damage. When correcting, unscrew the
socket, clean it at the joints with the cover, install it in place and tighten
the screws well. If at the same time any of the screws does not tighten
the socket, it must be replaced with a new one. In order to prevent the
socket from loosening again, put the lid on some hard plate and slightly
center the screws with a center punch. This is done in exceptional cases,
when the screws have a lot of wear and there is no possibility to replace
them with new ones.

74
 MECHANISM PER

Film rewind switch. When the shutter is wound and the film is
rewound, the shutter factory dial is idling. The malfunction can be from
two reasons. The first - the screw securing the rewind lever has turned
away or has fallen off the thread, as a result of which the cylindrical
eccentric does not include the working position. The second - the spring
plate has loosened or bent, returning the release button. The plate is at
the bottom of the chamber.

Figure: 7 1. Spring plate trigger

buttons.

In the first case, they take a thin round file or a long thin screwdriver
and, having opened the lower cover of the device, abut its end against
the cylindrical eccentric, but so that it does not interfere with the exit of
the screw. After that, remove the fixing screw from the shift lever and
replace it with a new one. When fastening the lever with a new screw,
make sure that the lever sits correctly on the square of the eccentric
neck, and then tighten the screw well.

In the second case, the screws are unscrewed one , 2, securing the
spring plate (fig. 7 one). In this case, it is necessary to remember the
position of the cheek inside the device, since it is fixed with the same
screws and its displacement can lead to damage to the shutter curtains.
Having removed the spring plate, bend it so that it is at a slight angle to
the base of its mount and presses well on the release button pin (Fig. 72).

75
 Shutter speed dial. When installing
shutter speeds, the dial does not record the speed readings, it gets lost, falls out,
disrupting the operation of the shutter.
Limb malfunction
in such a way. Screwdriver
screw the retainer into
Then the shutter starts
counterclockwise

Figure: 72. The degree of bending of the rod Rice, 73. Locking screw
release plate limba
buttons

The three speed detent has a wide-headed screw that presses its base
against the detent spring
( fig. 74). Having unscrewed the screw, it is necessary to check the state of

Figure: 74. Speed lock screw and spring

threading. If the thread is damaged, the screw must be replaced with a

new one. If the thread is intact, the screw is screwed in so that it is well
tightened and cannot turn away during operation. Then the speed dial is
screwed on. Then, raising the dial, set it in such a position that when you
press the shutter button, the camera shutter is open. After that, the
button is released, the shutter and speed dial are started again

76
is established P
or " IN " coincident a
for station wagon Etc
fingers, screw the locking screw as tight as possible, taking care not to
spoil the slot. After completing the operation, start the shutter and check
the correct alignment of the speed indicators with the arrow several
times.
Frame counter. In chambers of the type " FED " or " Vigilant "
there are cases when the frame counter is checked, the readings on the
counter disk are confused and do not correspond to the number of
frames taken. This happens due to the loss of elasticity of the spring ring
located
between the valve dial and the counter
disc.
To eliminate this malfunction,
unscrew

Figure: 75. Limb and spring Figure: 76. Ring position on

ring limbe

stop screw from the cylindrical surface of the shutter factory dial (this is
done with the shutter turned on and the bottom cover closed). Then
remove the shutter dial by turning it counterclockwise. There is a spring
ring in the lower part of the dial (Fig. 75), pressing on the counter disk.
The ring is removed from the limb and its bend is increased along the
same curvature that can be seen on the ring if you put it on something
even

( fig. 76). Having given the ring a correctly curved shape, it is inserted into its
place, the limb is screwed on, secured with a locking screw and the operation of
the counter is checked.
If the spring ring has been properly shaped, the counter will work
normally, showing the exact number of frames taken, and setting to "0" will
be smooth and soft.

77
It happens that the spring ring diverges around its entire circumference.
Then it is compressed inward, trying to reduce the diameter of the ring to
such a size that it fits tightly into the groove of the limb (see Fig. 75).

Film rewind limb.

Malfunction limba reverse
There are two types of film rewinding: the limb is
not pulled out of the sleeve for rewinding the film
into the cassette, or it rotates tightly on its axis.

In the first case, the limb is pulled out to

failure using a screwdriver
Figure: 77. The screw is fastened with aluminum lining. Then
limb rewind unscrews screw, fixing
kei film the stem of the limb (Fig. 77), which in turn is
removed from the socket
rewind forks. After that, with a small piece of sandpaper, clean the limb
rod around the circumference. After cleaning the rod and the place where
it is inserted, wipe the stripping points with cotton wool dipped in
gasoline, then lightly grease it with oil, insert the rod into place and fix it
with a screw. While inserting the dial, hold the plug on the inside of the
camera.

With tight rotation of the dial, the rewind fork is also removed. After
removing the dirt at the joints, clean the plug and the bushing where it is
inserted with thin emery paper. Then, wiping the spring and lubricating it
and the plug with oil, insert everything into place and secure.

Film movement. P e r e s t a e t p e r in and - gat s i n a p e n a, to a

cdr n and t on a frame, v e P e rf about r and c and I.

This malfunction occurs because pieces of film are wedged between

the housing wall and the base of the guide mechanism, or because the
antennae of the friction axle, on which the take-up spool is put on, are
weakened and slip.

In the first case, the lens ring is removed from the body. To do this,
unscrew four screws 2 ( fig. 78). When removing the ring, you must keep all
the gaskets underneath. After that, it is necessary to remove the cheek
from the chamber.

78
They serve instead of nuts when tightening the lens ring screws. Next,
four screws are unscrewed
one and 5, located on the right and left sides of the window

Figure: 78. Removing the camera cover

lens in the camera body. Then unscrew six screws 4, located in the
upper part on the side belt. Remember or lay out the screws on the
table so that during assembly all of them

screw into place.

When removing casing
cameras must be held
fingers pressure plate,
so that not scatter
springs.
Found scraps
films or dust need
carefully - remove clean Figure: 79. Presser installation
disk
cloth and assemble the device.

When assembling the camera, the casing is taken in the right hand.
First, the springs are placed in their places, then a pressure disk is placed
on them, pressed firmly with a finger and all this is put on the frame of the
shutter mechanism
( fig. 79). To the casing, sit in its place, take it down
79
rangefinder lever I have a frame
mechanism and casing. Having carefully checked whether the belt of the
upper part of the mechanism and the rim of the casing lining, as well as
the holes for the screws, match well, the screws are screwed into place.
All shims are laid in the same order as they were laid before. Place the
lens ring so that the recess milled from the back is in the upper part.
Carefully insert all four screws into the holes, put first one and then the
second cheek and evenly tighten all the screws of the lens ring in turn.
The screws are tightened so that there is no distortion in the bearing
plane of the ring. If the screws are

tightened unevenly, then

ring reference plane
can slightly
deform, lens
will begin to screw in tightly and
focusing it on focus will be difficult.

When travel
films can be
Ryas. 80. Elimination of slip
take-up reel
byksovka at-
e me bobbins.
Elimination of this defect is achieved as follows. The bottom cover is
removed from the camera. A steel plate or a wide screwdriver is inserted
into the slot of the axle, on which the take-up reel is put on, and, holding
the shutter-factory dial, the axle is turned out. Then, using a thin but wide
screwdriver or the tip of a penknife, raise the antennae (Fig. 80) and
check the fit of the bobbin on the axis. If the reel fits on the axle. tight, but
not tight, and well removed, then the repair must be considered
complete. If the bobbin is tightly put on and removed tightly, then the
antennae are set inward until the bobbin is tightly put on and removed
gently, without jamming.

Film scratches. Often, despite the good condition of the device and
good handling, scratches appear on the removed film, which spoil the
pictures even with a slight increase.

80
 To get rid of scratches, you must first disassemble the camera in the
same way as mentioned above. After removing the cover, take out the
pressure plate and two steel springs. Then, the inner surface of the
casing and the rear wall of the mechanism frame, where the film passes,
are wiped with a cloth soaked in gasoline. After that, a crocus is taken on
a clean, washed cloth or suede and polished well

dust with a film, and then the floor

If scratches appear
Rig the gear frame in those with
the film. After making sure that the
vans, they are well rinsed, and

MECHANI

The curtain shutter is very simple and durable in design.

Nevertheless, from inaccurate handling in the shutter, the ribbons, and
sometimes the curtains, can come off or come off.

The tape in the bolt has come off or comes off. It is necessary to
disassemble the camera until the frame of the mechanism is completely
free. Then use the tip of a screwdriver to remove the jammed ribbon from
under the roller. Holding the tape as shown in fig. 8 1, start the shutter,
making sure

Figure: 8 1. Bonding the shutter tape

so as not to tighten the ribbon under the rollers again. After that, the tip
of the tape is lightly lubricated for one
8 one
centimeter glue
While the oiled end of the ribbons
lightly grease with glue the place of the roller where the ribbon came off.
Then the tip of the tape is re-lubricated and, having allowed it to dry, is
glued into place. Before gluing the tape, the roller must be turned several
times, as indicated by the arrow in Fig. 82. The tension of the upper roller
should always be significantly weaker than the lower one. When
performing this operation, it may turn out that the ribbon is not stretched
enough and the slit that gives the exposure has a

Figure: 82. Tension Figure: 83. Sticking ribbons on a

springs of rollers hovichki

recos. This is verified as follows. After opening the shutter, it is turned

back halfway. If a misalignment is found, the shutter is turned on to
failure, the roller is unscrewed, as in the first time, and the ribbon is
shifted in the opposite direction. Having moved the ribbon around the
circumference of the roller, it is pressed tightly with some thin tool and the
roller is released. Now the curtains. can be leveled by rotating the roller
until the shutter is in the correct direction. If the glue has dried, then the
tape is peeled off and the operation is performed again.

The same is done with the ribbons, which are wound on handwheels
located on the sides of the main roller. one ( fig. 83). Only in this case, the
shutter should not be cocked, but released, and the handwheel, to which
the ribbon will be glued, should be unscrewed all the way to the left,
provided that the mechanism of the apparatus lies to its upper

82
part. After making sure that there is no distortion in the shutter and the ribbons
are stretched normally, they allow the glue to dry and, after checking the
operation of the shutter, assemble the apparatus.

Uneven exposure of the frame. Often when photographing, frames

are exposed unevenly in length. This is due to the incorrect ratio of the
tension of the springs of the upper and lower rollers. To eliminate this
malfunction, it is necessary to unscrew the screw that fixes the position of
the spring tension of the lower roller 3 ( see fig.

7 1), then, by inserting a screwdriver into the roller slot, adjust its tension.
The tension of the roller is brought to such a state that the curtain, which
is wound on this roller, descends vigorously and clearly, but not too tight.
Having thus adjusted the operation of the first curtain and fixing the lock
washer with a screw, proceed to adjusting the tension of the second
curtain. The adjustment of the second curtain is done in the same way,
but taking into account that the tension of its spring should be much
weaker. This work requires a lot of attention and skill. Therefore, it is not
always possible to achieve uniform movement of the shutter along the
frame the first time, and it is very difficult to check it visually.

Sometimes, in order to achieve the highest accuracy, one does the

following: unscrew the lens, open the back cover of the device, and
instead of the film, insert a white sheet of paper so that it occupies the
entire frame of the frame. Then, lighting this place well and setting

shutter speed at eleven 0 0 sec, check the degree of uniform illumination

throughout the frame. If, when triggered,
When the shutter is pressed, the whiteness of the paper will turn out to be
unevenly white, which means that the frame will be exposed unevenly.
Therefore, the work must be repeated until the white field is uniformly
illuminated during the shutter operation.

Synchronizer installation. To install a synchronizer in the camera " FED

" or " Vigilant " first of all, it is made with a joint rosette

( fig. 84). This socket is slightly different from the connection socket
installed on the central gate " Moment- 23 FROM ". Metal body, or sleeve 4,

whose total height is 7-8 mm, has a slot at the top 3 for the plug, and at
the bottom - carving 6 for crepe
83
laziness on the case end, the length of which
3-4 mm, have aiku 7. Rest
device sos noah dielectric
tube one, which new tube 2. Support - body
ny side 5 when tightening
nut 7.
After dongle socket,
determine the location of its installation on the camera. Place of the
socket on the device " FED " usually chosen on the front of the camera,
near the lens, so that the central part of the socket is opposite the
take-up spool, but does not touch the film initially

nominal position, or on the decorative panel on the

left, but did not interfere with the installation
universal
viewfinder.
After the place for the connecting
socket has been determined, separate the
body or shield and perform drilling. Into the
drilled
hole
inserted corresponding
tapping and tapping. Into threaded hole

screwed
connective power socket and
secured with a nut.
Figure: 84. Connection diagram
To to make zam-
power outlet to the device who are c about n t a c t, nado
there take two plates thick 0.5
mm made of insulating material
and file them into a rectangle of size 6x one 0
mm. The inside of these plates is cleaned with sandpaper and lubricated
with shellac glue or glue " BF- 2 ", between these plates is placed a silver
contact plate of length thirty mm and no more than 0.8 mm. The plate
thickness should be 0.3 mm. The whole system of plates is tightly bound
with a thin wire and dried at a temperature 50-60 °.

Before drying, one end of the plate is pulled out so that its length is 1 4- one
6 mm. The entire contact plate goes down and is positioned so that its
height from the base is 1 - one, 5 mm. When the glue is

84
dries, in the upper part of the pl with
a diameter of 1, 5 mm for k fastening
plas
produced by one screw
In order for the contact system to connect well and securely, the ring
sleeve is cut down a little in the place where this system is attached and
attached. The clutch can only be cut by separating it from the camera. To
do this, you need to unscrew the three screws on the inside of the
camera. After the plate with the contact is strengthened, it is necessary to
bend the long end of the contact 3

so that it fits the latch 2, without touching her.

Figure: 85. Fixing the sync terminal

When performing this work, you must be very careful and always
make sure that the contact is well insulated from the camera body and
that the screw for securing the plates does not touch the inner part of the
contact when tightening.

Then it is necessary to adjust the setting accuracy and the operation of

the synchronous contact closure.
First of all, let's look at how the work happens. Reinforced between
two insulated - plates, the silver contact is closed by a latch Y (Fig. 86). When
the shutter is released, the first curtain is activated, and the second is
delayed by the 2. At the moment of full opening of the curtain, the cam 3,

going in the direction of the arrow, pulls the latch to the silver plate 4 and
thereby closes the sync circuit

85
devices. The sector is reset momentarily later 2 and the second curtain
falls.
Factory shutter cam 3 deflects the latch again and may short circuit
again. To
avoid it, silver
the contact is not placed at the level of
the latch, but slightly below 6 ( fig. 86). Here
the latch 5 is in an inoperative position.

When help
flat springs she
raised. When downhill
shutter release button
squeezes out steel
plate and latch
descends on level
contact, occupying
Figure: 86. Closing circuit position.
ticks Such interaction of the
chaga must be correctly and precisely adjusted. Contact bend 4 it is
necessary to do so that its contacting part is at a distance 1 mm from the
contacting part of the latch. This distance must be strictly coordinated
with the moment of dropping by the cam. 3 sectors 2.

If the cam 3 will move the latch at least slightly before the short circuit
occurs, then the lamp flash will be inaccurate and the frame will be
partially exposed or not exposed at all.

The correct position of the levers in the prism and can be easily
adjusted as follows. The speed dial is installed in its place and secured
with locking screws. Making sure that the speed reading matches the
operation of the shutter, setting

speed one/ 2 5 sec, start the shutter and, holding the speed dial, press the
release button. Turning
chirping the limb along the way with your fingers, follow the moment when
the sector is dropped 2; In addition, it is necessary to check the condition of
the latch at the time of the shutter factory. Factory shutter deviation; the
latches should occur freely over the contact, without touching it at all.

After careful adjustment, a thin wire with a good one is soldered to

the second end of the contact; PVC insulation. The other end of the wire
is soldered to
86
internal contact of the connecting socket. After that, the plug is connected
and a general check is made, of the entire synchro device,

To check the synchronization of the flash, insert a white sheet of

paper into the frame window and, after removing the lens from the
camera, direct the reflector of the lamp to the inner part of the camera.
After that, several flashes are made, watching for the appearance of a
white frame. If the sync device is not adjusted accurately, the frame
window will not be fully visible.

With a sufficiently correct adjustment, the entire frame window will be well
and evenly illuminated by the flash of the lamp.

RANGEFINDER

It is not uncommon for the camera rangefinder to show the incorrect

distance to the subject. The following fixes may be required here.

Correction of the system of transmission of radial directions of

the rangefinder. In this case, the screw is unscrewed 2, located at the
personnel window (see Fig. 83). Then a thin, well-tucked screwdriver is
taken and inserted into the hole from which the screw was removed. The
screwdriver should fit into the slot in the adjusting screw. Turning the
screwdriver to the right or left, make sure that the visible image is aligned.
Do this with the lens set to ∞. By aligning the images in position on with,
aiming the lens, check the correctness of the display and at short
distances. If the rangefinder does not give an accurate reading at close
range, the adjustment is performed by shifting the cam.

Rangefinder adjustment by cam offset ( fig. 87)

is made as follows. A small sheet of white paper is taken, on which a
crosshair is boldly applied with ink. Then the apparatus is installed so
that the distance from its rear wall to the crosshair is 1 m. Trying not to
knock out the set distance, match the crosshairs in the rangefinder and
check the readings of the lens distance scale. If the lens scale appears
more than a meter, then the cam rotates to the left. If on the distance
scale the readings are less than a meter, then the cam is turned to the
right.

87
 The cam is displaced as follows: after unscrewing the lens from the
camera, first of all, check whether the cam is tight enough on its axis,
especially if there is no locking mount on the cam. If on ku-

Figure: 87. Rangefinder circuit:

one - translucent mirror; 2 - adjustment screw; 3— lens;
4 - cam; 5 - wedge; 6 - prism

the cam has no locking screw and is easily displaced, the cam must be
reinforced with the screw on the back
sti, and afterwards to make an
offset for
adjustment.
If on cam
there is locking
screw, then unscrew it by about
two turns and only then carry
out the adjustment.

Figure: 88. Keys for offset ku- To adjust the cam

rangefinder shafts shifts one way or the other
side at
using a special key (fig. 88) or with pliers with red copper edging. After
adjustment, screw in the lens and check the distance scale reading.

If it turns out that the rangefinder still does not give an accurate indication
of the distances, the operation is repeated again and do this until the
rangefinder gives an accurate reading.

88
knowledge of the footage. For the final and alignment of
the rangefinder, you can again use to adjust the
rangefinder through the hole in the viewfinder window.

The adjustment described by us, undoubtedly

quite ideal, is nevertheless correct
the alignment can be considered quite satisfactory.
Rangefinder lever stuck can be seen when
the lens on the object being shot. No matter how you try to focus on
focus, alignment in the rangefinder will not - it seems to be off.

The malfunction is eliminated as follows. The lens is unscrewed from

the camera and the movement of the lever is checked. If, after pressing
the lever, it does not return to its original position, then the lever is stuck
and must be relaxed. For this, watch oil is lubricated at the place where
the sleeve is connected to the lever axis. Then they move the roar d
down and up until then, until he will be - with the help of a spring

return to the top

position. After that
check work
rangefinder for close and long
distances.
Fix far-
wedge lens measure
produced
following way. Figure: 89. Wedge rim offset
Hovers rangefinder
the camera to ∞ and check if there is a shift in the vertical rangefinder
readings. If there is ghosting, it is necessary to unscrew the decorative
ring (Fig. 89). To do this, it is necessary to make an aluminum clamp,
which will grip the decorative ring around the entire circumference.
Putting such a clamp on the decorative ring and grasping the ears of the
clamp with pliers, screw the ring, thereby revealing the wedge frame with
slots for rotation. (Usually, such rings and rangefinder mandrels are
unscrewed using special pliers with copper jaws.) Insert the tips of the
bent tweezers or a specially made key into the slots, and turn the wedge
rim as the image is aligned in the rangefinder. For the result

89
This correction must be observed after every slight displacement of the
wedge barrel and when the lens is set to ∞. Absolute alignment is not
always possible with such an adjustment: having achieved vertical
alignment, you can often observe horizontal discrepancies at the ∞
position. Then the rangefinder is re-adjusted with a screwdriver through
the hole in the viewfinder window, as mentioned above. After making
sure that the rangefinder is completely aligned, screw the screw and the
decorative ring in place. After that, it is necessary to check the
rangefinder again, since when tightening the decorative ring, the wedge
seat may move and the alignment may be disturbed.

LENS ADJUSTMENT

Alignment of the main lens to the camera is done by removing or

adding spacer rings that bring closer or remove the lens reference plane
ring located on the front of the camera.

To adjust the lens to the camera, first of all, the focal length of the
lens is determined to match it with the focal length of the camera. For
this, the objective is screwed into the focal mount of the collimator. The
lens should be set to ∞. Then the lens is aimed at a brightly lit object
within ∞. By aiming the tube with a magnifying glass, full sharpness of the
image is achieved, the collimator mounting screw is tightened, the
objective is screwed in, and the distance from the reference plane of the
focal tube to the frosted glass is determined with a depth gauge. After
that, open the camera shutter curtain. To do this, start the shutter, set it
on the speed dial " IN ", press the release button and, without releasing it,
move the lever to turn off the rewind. After making sure that the shutter is
open and the clamping disk is completely released, check the
coincidence of the working section of the camera with the working
section of the lens according to the indication of the depth gauge. If the
depth gauge shows that the focal length of the camera should be larger,
then shims are placed under the lens support ring; when the depth gauge
reads to decrease, the gaskets are removed.

90
 After adjusting the lens in this way, the depth gauge makes a general
check of the reference plane of the ring on the camera at four different
points, near the mounting screws. If in this case the depth gauge shows
a discrepancy, then make an additional adjustment and achieve the
smallest possible discrepancy by means of small thin shims, which are
added or replaced in opposite directions.

After the main objective has been fitted to the quote collimator, it is
checked by the distance number. If the rangefinder does not match the
meter of the lens, adjust the rangefinder to the lens.

When fitting and aligning additional lenses, never touch the support
ring on the camera. Additional lenses are adjusted by removing or
adding quotation spacers, which are placed between the reference plane
of the block inside the mount.
 CHAPTER 6

FED- 2 "

Repair phot differs in many ways from

repair photoap detailing
disassembling apparatuses synchronizer and distance
numbering system, which in this model differs in that the direct optical
viewfinder is here combined with an optical rangefinder, which has a
diopter device that compensates for visual deficiencies.

CAMERA BODY

Camera camera " FED- 2 " has a removable back wall. There may be
the following malfunctions.

The tripod socket is relaxed. When correcting from-

screw the ring nut 2 ( fig. 90), take off the nest,
the attachment points are cleaned of dirt, then
the socket is inserted into place and tightened
well with
special key,
which with its ledges enters the slots for
tightening the ring nut.

Damaged flap clamping

films. The shield is removed, rivets torn out of
the shield one ( fig. 90)
Figure: 90. Places for strengthening remove the holes slightly
tripod and shield countersink make and
film clamp insert new copper rivets
the right size. If the film appears on the side of the substrate
scratches, flap carefully
polished with crocus. In no case should you use sandpaper or sanding
powder for this.

92
 Internal cleaning
chale coarse hair
Xia soft brush
the cases are wiped
gasoline. Then all
cloth.

ADJUSTMENT OF THE MECHANISM

Dismantling the camera. Disassembly of the chamber is required for general

cleaning and adjustment of the mechanism. Disassembly of the device basically
consists in removing the upper flap from the camera and separating the inner frame
of the mechanism from the body.

Figure: nine 1. Chamber fittings " FED "

To remove the top plate, it is necessary to remove the valve of the shutter factory,
having previously unscrewed the locking screw of the valve 4 ( fig. nine one).

Then remove the choke for turning off the speeds 5, from which the
locking screw is also unscrewed. Then they remove the speed division
dial 3, after unscrewing two locking screws from it. To remove the staple 2

Remove the three screws that secure it to the camera body. Next, pull
out the film rewind limb / and, having unscrewed the screw that secures
it, remove the limb, screw and ring.

After that, unscrew the screw located under the counter disk and the
frames with the rangefinder lenses. To
93
separate the shield from the camera, you need to unscrew three more screws - one,
92) on sides ka-
measures. Shield about easy m at the moment
pulling it away

Figure: 92, Removing the screws securing the shield

After removing the flap, it is easy to verify the simplicity of the entire
structure of the mechanism. Therefore, there is no need to repeat the
description of the repair of those units that were disassembled above, when
describing the repair of the mechanism " FED ". However, there is a need to
consider individual damage that occurs only in the chamber. " FED "-2".

Malfunction di-
optical compensation
Torah makes it difficult
aiming the lens at
sharpness rangefinder.
Malfunction occurs
dit exclusively from
arbitrary you-
one
Figure: 93. Diopter arm and screw screwing
rangefinder lever ( fig. 93), fixing
lever arm bias di-
optical lens. To fix this screw tightly. If it turns out that the screw is torn
off, it is replaced with a new one.

In some cases, when aiming at the rangefinder, the moving image is

wobbling and does not have a definite movement. In this case, check the
reliability of the screw 2. If the screw is loose and wobbled, tighten it to
failure. If the thread is damaged, a new screw is made.

When the distance meter is set to ∞ or when it is adjusted through the

2 ( fig. 94) using thin
94
screwdrivers sometimes deteriorate with the wire located there. In such
cases, the spring is replaced with a new one. To do this, insert a wide
screwdriver into the slot on the union head 2,

completely dislodged him-

read and extract
damaged pru-
zhina. New spring
manufactured of
wire diameter
0.6 - 0.8 mm. The spring should
have no more than seven to eight
turns
overall diameter 3—
3.5 mm.
The device does not work
swarm of fixing Figure: 94. Spring fitting and plug socket
th machinery plant
shutter. Cause - ring spring loose or damaged 3 ( fig. 95), broken or
seized hook 2,
fixing the roller gear,

Figure: 95. Hook and rod fixing screw

film travel mechanism

When correcting, remove the shutter factory limb, unscrew the screw
one, holding friction drum
( fig. 97), unscrew the screw one ( fig. 95), fastening hook, and only after
that remove the gear, on the disk of which there is an annular spring
(Fig. 98).
If the hook fails 2 ( fig. 95) they clean it up,
95
sharpen the stop and adjust so that it rotates freely on the screw one. ( For
the position of the locking hook, see fig. 96.) Then the operation of the
annular spring is checked. To do this, remove the spring from the axis,
against

Figure: 96. Position Figure: 97. Friction fixing screw

fixing hook onny drum
ka factory shutter

dry the axle and spring and set it in place. Putting the spring in the groove
of the axle so that its bend is turned towards the hook and can enter its
hole, drilled specifically for this purpose, check the movement of the
spring around the circumference in either direction. In one direction, the
spring should move with slight slippage, and in the other - with more

dense clamp. Making sure in

the correct operation of the spring, the axis is inserted
into place and the factory limb is installed. Then,
using tweezers or a thin screwdriver, set the hook so
that it finds its groove on the spring bend. Having laid
the hook in place, it is tightened with a screw and the
interaction of the lock with the shutter is checked.

Figure: 98. Six- Synchronizer device in the camera

terenka freak " FED- 2 " based on a slightly different
ration bar the principle of operation of sync contacts (Fig.
bana
99, A).
96
 There is a socket on the front of the camera near the lens ring one ( fig.
94) to turn on the plug of the flash lamp. Internal contact anger

and connected to a wire that goes down to unscrew

the screws 2 and 3, fig. 97, e sync contacts) and
comes out from the bottom of the camera 3 ( fig. 99, A).
It is connected and soldered to a metal lined between
two dielectrics. It has a curved shape, and its second
horse

so that it can be closed by a rotary plate

4; this record is sometimes made in the form of a disc. Closing occurs
only in that
moment, when pressed
shutter button. When the button is pressed
plate 6
wrung out and thereby frees
insulating
plate 7, which, under the influence of
its own elasticity
guests bring contact closer
for closures. When
liberation buttons
insulating plate one
departs and opens
contacts. In this way,
after triggering
shutter chain remains
open. Moment
closures happens
by touching a contact,
located from below Figure: 99. Synchronization
that " FED- 2 " device
records 4. At the factory
the shutter plate is rotated and the contacts remain in the neutral
position. When descending, this plate turns to its original position and at
the moment when the first curtain gives full opening of the slot, it touches
the contact located on the plate 5, and the circuit will be closed as long as
the release button is pressed.

The malfunction of the synchronizer mainly occurs either from a

short circuit, or from a violation of the contact circuit at the time of
synchronization.
M.F. Yakovlev 97
 In the first case, the entire synchronization system is checked. To do
this, a light bulb is attached to the battery of the pocket flashlight, one end
of the wire is inserted into the central hole of the socket, and the other
end is touched by the body of the apparatus. If the light comes on when
the shutter is turned on, - the synchronizer is closed. For correction, short
circuits are found and carefully insulated.

If the lamp does not light up when you press the shutter button, then
the contact of the contacts is broken when the shutter is released. To
restore the contacts, the contact plate is bent or displaced so that its end 5
concerned contact 4 on the turntable just as the release button is
pressed.

It must be said that the latest releases of the camera " FED- 2 " have
a slightly modified design of the synchro device. Here the contacts are
not located at the bottom, as in previous models, but in the upper part of
the camera, under the decorative flap. This synchro device is very simple
and reliable in operation (see fig. 99, B).

Main contact 5 and 7 placed on an insulated panel 6 and is firmly

attached to the camera with two screws. Contact part 7 serves to connect
the device to a plug socket, which is installed on the cover and the tail
part is adjacent to the contact. Contact 5 serves for synchronous closure,
which occurs according to the same rules and properties, which were
mentioned above. Latch 2 fortified at the point 8 in such a way that it has
a swinging offset and is pressed by the spring one in the direction of the
arrow. When you press a sector 3 latch at point 2 the latch moves in the
direction opposite to the arrow, and the other shoulder of the latch 4

touches the contact 5 and, closing the circuit, reproduces the flash of the
vacuum tube.

CLEANING AND ADJUSTING THE LENS

Frame mounted on the camera

" FED- 2 ", simple in design and in the interaction of running connections.
Such a frame arrangement completely ensures smooth aiming and
almost guarantees against the appearance of arbitrary backlash.

Cleaning. The frame is easily disassembled for both cleaning and

relubrication and alignment.
98
 Three screws on the front of the lens are unscrewed and the ring
about the groove is removed from the frame. Then the screw that goes
into the groove is unscrewed. After the screw is removed " screw the drive
ring, and the chassis is disassembled. The removed driver ring is washed
in clean kerosene with a brush and screwed back onto the thread on
which the grease has not been removed. This is done several times until
the rotation on the thread is completely free. After that, fresh grease is
applied to the ring, screwed on and fixed with screws.

Do not forget that when disassembling, all joints are marked so that
during assembly, the beginning of screwing goes from the marks.

Adjustment, To align the lens, it is sometimes necessary to remove

the entire optical component with the barrel to add or subtract some of
the rings between the mount and the component block.

In such cases, be sure to use a tubular wrench to unscrew the ring

securing the unit to the frame from the rear part of the lens. Then the
three locking screws located on the meter scale are removed. After
removing the scale, unscrew the small locking screw that secures the
tube when setting the diaphragm boundaries to their original position.
After that, the block is easily unscrewed from the frame.

To align the objective, the rear wall of the apparatus is removed to

the camera, and an auxiliary bench with frosted glass is applied exactly
to the place of the focal plane (see Fig. 11). Then aim the lens at ∞ and
check the degree of focusing of the lens through a magnifying glass. If in
this case the image is not sharp, aim the lens with the worm-drive of the
frame until a sharp image is obtained.

After that, it is determined how far the tube has moved forward.
Having determined the distance of the tube exit, compensate for the
distance by placing O-rings. If it turns out that to obtain full sharpness it is
necessary to bring the lens closer, then the spacers are removed. By
checking the result in this way, the required image sharpness is
achieved.

The best alignment result is achieved with an alignment collimator

(see Fig. 1 0), transferring the working section of the camera to the
collimator using an indicator depth gauge.
 CHAPTER 7

PHOTOUPP Y-ZS ",

" Vigilant- 4" saved

basic devices and " World ".
Therefore, to devices,
just get to know the device of the camera
" Vigilant- 4".
Camera " Vigilant- 4" has a mechanism for slowing down the shutter
speeds, a self-timer and some changes in the design of the rangefinder.
In addition, the camera body has been rebuilt, as a result of which the
camera is disassembled in a different order.

DISASSEMBLY OF THE CAMERA

Disassembling the camera " Vigilant- 4" is made in the following way.
The division limb is removed first
speeds.
Limbo speeds
fastened with two locking
screws that
front removing limba
unscrewed. Then
unscrews screw
fastenings advancing
flash / located
Figure: one 00. The location of the divider retaining on the rim (Fig.
screws in the ring 'lead and 1 00).
cover fixing screws Next is to remove
shutter plant limb.
Plant limb fastened with a locking screw and screwed onto the
take-up drum axle. Therefore, the locking screw is first unscrewed and
then the dial is screwed on.
one 00
 Decorative cover. Under the limb (Fig. 1 00)
there are two screws 2, which must be unscrewed, as they attach the
decorative cover 3. Then you need to unscrew the two screws from the
back one and 2 ( fig. one 0 1) and screw 4 from the front Do not

Figure: one 0 1. Fixing screws Figure: 102. Rangefinder and frame

decorative fixing screws -
cover

run to unscrew the connecting impulse socket, the viewfinder eyepiece

and the screw at the frame window -

Figure: one 03. Rangefinder top mount

they have nothing to do with the fastening of the decorative cover.

After removing the screws from the sides of the decorative cover, it
can be easily removed by pulling it up.

The need to remove the decorative cover is due to the need to repair
the clockwork, with the help of which the slow speed

one 0 one
 shutter speed, and for regular
cases - for correcting rangefinder
parts and for

lever with a cam. (To do this,

unscrew the screw,
shown in fig. one 04.)
Rice, 1 04. Removing the lever from the Casing. Further
lick disassembly cameras conclude
can be found in removing the casing. This is mainly necessary for the repair
of the automatic descent and for the subsequent disassembly of the entire
mechanism under the casing.

Figure: one 05. Screws on the camera body

" Vigilant- 4"

The casing is detached from the camera after all screws on the upper shoulder
of the camera, three screws on the back and two on the front of the shoulder have
been removed 3 and 5 ( in Fig. 1 05). Then the two screws at the bottom are removed
- one and 6.
Now it is necessary to remove the automatic release winding lever. To do
this, unscrew the screw 2. When withdrawing
one 02
the lever must be careful
so that from under it and with
edges for connecting the
release systems

Figure: one 06. The location of the self-timer levers

ska and lens panel screws

Figure: one 07. Self-timer and inner screws

blends

with the lever or after removing it. The release button should not be
removed - it has no connection with the inside of the camera.

For the convenience of removing the casing, the shutter factory limb is
screwed onto the axle and the casing is pulled down. Sometimes the shroud
sits very tightly on the camera and takes some effort to remove. In such
cases, it is necessary to rock the cover from side to side and pull it down with
force.
one 03
 Lens panel. To access the curtain mechanism, the lens panel is
removed (Fig. 1 06).
Remove the ring by unscrewing the four screws on the lens reference
plane ring. There are two screws under the ring - one and 2, attaching the
inner hoods of the camera. They also need to be unscrewed. Then it is
necessary to remove the six screws located on the panel, indicated in fig.
one 06 arrows. The panel should be pulled to the bottom of the camera,
having previously lifted 4-5 mm its free edge, P oc l

tiva remove internal

Renewable hoods
Self-timer ka unscrew
three screws - one making the mechanism easy
separates from p a.
Intraframe e inside the staff
blends manufactured two screws
below and two v returned live and
bent brackets.
Frame. Further disassembly consists in separating the frame from
the top cover. To do this, unscrew two screws from the inner side of the
camera, near the film rewind fork, and two screws located on the upper
plane of the camera. The frame is then detached from the cover.

SHUTTER MECHANISM

Slow speed operation in the shutter is carried out

with the help of an anchor-clock mechanism installed at the top of the
chamber, where it interacts with
dividing head latch
shutter (fig. 1 08).
Violation work slow
slow shutter speeds usually occur
from appearance in
mechanism of corrosion, pollution,
block offset or violation of the correct
provisions
springs. To get the shutter speeds to
work, you need
Figure: one 08.
mechanism Theap-
on the location
removeof the anchor whole block anchor
parate mechanism.
Under the anchor mechanism,
under the block on which the
one 04
the block is on, there is a
( fig. one 09). This record is the
extreme ledge 3 the moment of full
opening of n serves to release the
second
excerpts.
Sometimes from clogging
plate from ledge
stops working normally
thief and the spring, with the help of
which it returns to its original position,
cannot overpower
jamming and
move it out of place. Therefore,
after it is removed Figure: one 09. Shut-off location
mechanism slow escapement plates
speeds, immediately check the force of returning the plate. To do this, it
is enough to squeeze the plate with the end of a thin screwdriver and,
releasing it, trace its return to its original position.

Figure: BUT. Anchoring mechanism

( bottom view)

To restore normal operation of this plate, remove the block one ( fig.
one 09), unscrewing the screws on the inner side of the camera and the
screw fixing the block from above, clean the groove from dirt, strengthen,
if necessary, the spring or replace it with a new one. Then the block is
put in place, fixed with screws and the movement of the plate is checked.

Violation of the normal operation of decelerated speeds can also

occur from a malfunction of the an- nkernogo mechahanizm and (Fig. 11 0).
The slightest appearance
one 05
laziness, corrosion dust on gears
upset with operating mechanism
block. To restore normal operation of the anchor block, the dirt must be
removed. If the unit is only dusty, it is thoroughly washed in gasoline.

" B- 70 ". Flushing is repeated several times with gasoline replacement.

The mechanism immersed in gasoline is started with a large gear and
allowed to spin in the gasoline. Before this, the mechanism is cleaned
with a brush with gasoline.

If the mechanism is covered with corrosion, then it must be

disassembled, immersed for some time in a solution of ammonia. Then
clean well every detail and gear with a stiff brush and immerse

zit in gasoline. The gear axles and bushings

should be especially well cleaned. - holes for
axles.
Axial holes
cleaned well and sharply
sharpened sticks of
hard rock.
Purified and dried
the mechanism is assembled and installed
Figure: 111. Divider pours into place. Before installation, the speed head and
syn-block of the mechanism are turned on two
hrokontakt turnover gear big
diameter one ( fig. eleven 0), and then
turn it so that the adjacent gear 3
( fig. one 03) opened the entrance for placing a fixing screw in it.
Syncrocontact one ( fig. 111) is retracted by winding the shutter to the
right. Now you can put the mechanism in place. Once the entire
mechanism assembly is seated correctly and precisely over the screw
holes, insert one screw first, but do not tighten it completely. Then insert
and tighten the second one. When tightening both screws, the whole
block is tilted slightly so that the eccentric 3 ( fig. eleven 0) aligned with the
shoulder of the plate 2 ( fig. one 09).

After making sure that the eccentric is seated correctly and can
move the plate, the screws are tightened to failure and click the bolt at
slow speeds.
To complete this work successfully, it is necessary before removing
the anchor mechanism to trace how it
one 06
 installed and with what details it interacts during operation at slow
speeds.
The work of the anchor block for deceleration of speeds is carried out
as follows. The block consists of four gears. The last gear has teeth
made at an obtuse angle. The anchor fork slides along these teeth, as a
result of which the gear does not rotate freely, but is, as it were, probed
by the anchor fork. This gear, by means of teeth on the pinion, is
connected to the second gear, which can rotate freely in the opposite
direction with its pinion, which is necessary when

setting to different deceleration rates. The third

Gear has a thickened axis, which is brought up
and connected to the power spring 2 ( fig.
eleven 2). And finally, the last ring gear,

which is set aside and is located so that it

rotates around the dividing head, has a small pin
below 2 ( fig. eleven 0),

thanks to which the plant takes place Figure: eleven 2. Installation

anchor block. Plant anchor block
cam driven 2 ( fig. 111). At the moment when the shutter is wound, the
cam is in the raised position and, resting on the pin 2 ( fig. eleven 0),

starts the block.

The winding range of the block is entirely dependent on the cam
setting over a larger or smaller part of the dividing head circumference.
The time interval is fixed by cutouts made specially for this purpose on
the gearbox coupling. It is in these notches that the cam step enters
when this or that speed is set.

When we start the shutter, the clutch turns and simultaneously starts
the slow-speed mechanism. Towards the end of the plant, the second
curtain snaps onto the ledge 3 ( fig. one 09) and keeps on it until the
clockwork withstands a specified time after the shutter is released, slowly
bringing the turn of the eccentric to the protrusion on the plate, and
pushes it back, thereby releasing the release of the second curtain,
which gives the specified speed. To that

one 07
should add I head clutch has variable
eleven p speeds -
six notches small. Deep Pros
cuts serve for short speeds, and
small - for ostey. This is done for certain
so that at speeds during
factory, the cam could, resting on the pin, start and hold the gear in the
working position until the shutter was released.
Self-timer. When repairing the auto release, do not disassemble the
entire chamber. It is enough to remove the
dry, reinstall the plant lever
self-timer and verify
interaction of the self-timer.
If a malfunction of the levers is detected 4 and 6
( see fig.
one 06), necessary them from-
regulate.
After winding the spring, the self-timer is
activated by pressing
buttons. The button has a tapered section on
the inside. Thanks to the cone
lever arm b ( fig. one 06)
moves away, liberating from
closures anchor plug, and
the mechanism comes into action.
When the mechanism starts to work
Figure: eleven 3. Mechanism sector 5 ( fig. eleven 3) starts to put pressure on
self-timer little dog 3, as a result of which all
system, mounted on
swing arm 6 ( the system is secured by two screws: the main screw 7 and
screw with guide one), deflects and finger 2 presses on the pin, which in
turn presses on the spring plate - and the shutter works.

After the shutter mechanism has worked, the swinging arm 6 returns
to its original position. At the next cycle of work during the self-timer
plant, the sector 5 throws back the dog 3, which immediately returns to its
original position with the help of a spring on the screw 4.

After the shutter is released, the self-timer is automatically turned off

by pressing the tab 4 on the ear 5
one 08
records 6 ( fig. one 06), as a result, the upper end of the plate deviates to
the left and closes the anchor.
The self-timer may malfunction if the entire system is seated at the
screw attachment points one and 7 ( fig. eleven 3). To fix, unscrew both
screws, clean the joints with a brush and put the system in place. When
tightening the screws, make sure that the screws are well tightened and
that the lever system itself moves freely, without any effort.

More often, self-timer malfunction occurs due to the activation of the

spring pressing the pawl 3. If this spring cannot be restored and
adjusted to work, a new spring is made from steel wire with a diameter 0.5
mm. One end of this spring is bent at an angle 90 °, clings to the side of
the lever near the screw 4 and wraps around the neck twice. The
remaining end is bite off in such a way that the remainder of the spring
coming from the screw is no more 7-8 mm. The end of the spring fits into
the slot on the side of the dog.

When repairing a burst power spring, which is inside the mechanism

on a gear, it is enough to unscrew three screws and separate the
mechanism plates. The spring usually bursts first at the location of the
spring lock. The spring itself is a very crucial part. It serves as a source
of energy for the mechanism. The spring must not only be resilient and
elastic along its entire length, but must also work reliably for a long time.

It is not possible to break the spring during normal operation. A

spring break occurs due to defects in the material itself or defects in its
manufacture, heat treatment, or from corrosion. Therefore, you should
not bend it too much, expose it to excessive heat and sand it with
sandpaper. The end of the spring, from which it is necessary to restore
the lock, is straightened out by hand without any tapping. The spring is
then released to a deep red glow and cooled slowly. To do this, it must
not be immediately, but gradually taken out of the flame. The released
and cooled spring is given an exact copy of the lock, based on the
configuration of the broken end.

one 09
After repairing the lock on a broken spring, the released end should not
be hardened. The spring is put on
on the axis.
For installation beginning to install
all shine then the lock is
goes to capture the whole spring.
The spring can m. Main She-
stalk, on to ina, installed
in the panel levers off
niya. Then this with transitional
clutch and close Spring deflection
the castle is blowing ditch the plant before
its full tension. After tension, the lever is tied so that it does not unwind,
and all gears and anchor escapement are put in place. Having positioned
the gears correctly, put a second cover on the mechanism, tighten the
screws, release the spring and check the accuracy of the entire
mechanism.

Corroded and contaminated mechanism must be completely cleaned

teeth, axles and bushings. Rinse in k a and h and t k a
produced by gasoline at
using the brush. Device
self-timer It has nearly
complete analogy from
the device of the mechanism for
slow shutter speeds.
therefore cleaning his
performed in the same way as cleaning
the mechanism slow down
slow shutter speeds
( see page 1 05— one 06)
Synchro device. All
Figure: eleven 4. Synchro frame installation of a synchro device in
swarms the device is mounted on
metal frame (Fig.
eleven 4). Closing of contacts is carried out at the moment of opening the
shutter by a lever mounted on the dividing head. The end of this arm or
stand is brought up and bent at a right angle one ( see fig. 111). When the
shutter is released, this lever moves to its original position and

eleven 0
closes the contact,
flash setting
female under the scale with
connects to the neck
Locking screw included

Rangefinder photoapp
perfection
the operation is very convenient, that
easy to adjust and, which is very important, does not move at all when the
decorative cover is fastened with screws.
Alignment such a rangefinder is not difficult. There is a screw on the
back, where the small swinging prism is located one ( fig. eleven 5). Before
adjusting this screw

Figure: eleven 5. General view of the rangefinder

must be turned off no more than half a turn. After that, the rangefinder
viewfinder is aimed at a sharp outline of an object and a thin screwdriver
inserted into the hole 2 or 3, turn the screw while watching the image. To
align the images, one screw is unscrewed, and the other is screwed, or
vice versa. Thus, absolute parallelism of images is achieved. At the end
of this adjustment

111
screw one, located on the back side of the prism, secured to failure.

The distance meter is adjusted in the same way as in previous

models of cameras, using a locking screw 4.

Cleaning. To clean the optical parts of the rangefinder, remove the

small prism and remove the metal shutter with the eyepiece lens. Then all
optical parts are wiped with cotton wool wrapped around a match. The
match should be clean, without sulfur, and the tampon should be changed
more often.

If greasy stains have formed on the glass, which often happens during
repairs, then the tampon is moistened in ether and the part is wiped several
times, removing the greasy stain. After wiping with ether, the glass is wiped
with a clean dry swab until the entire surface of the part is completely
transparent.
 CHAPTER 8. CAMERAS „ KIEV- 4 A", „ KIEV- 4",

„ KIEV"

Camera " Kiev- 4" unlike other cameras " Kiev "
has some changes in the back cover and exposure meter. Locks, tripod
nut and film rewind button are streamlined and recessed into the cover.

Of particular importance is the change in the design of the rear wall

by increasing the pressure plane of the table. This design significantly
increases the resolution of the camera.

The camera has reduced the size of the exposure meter, increased
its sensitivity due to the use of a galvanometer with an intraframe
magnet. The calculator scales are placed in the horizontal plane. The film
rewind head is made with the calculation of the elongation when
rewinding the film.

In the camera " Kiev- 4" as the main object is used " Jupiter- 8 M ", which
is different from
" Jupiter- 8" accurate fixation of the diaphragm designations.

Lenses are used as interchangeable lenses

" Orion-1 5", " Jupiter- 3 "," Jupiter- nine", " Jupiter 11 " and " Jupiter -1 2 ".

Focusing in the camera is carried out using an optical rangefinder

and scales of distances and depth of field.

Sighting is performed using an optical viewfinder, which is combined

with a rangefinder.
The shutter has eight automatic exposures: 1 / 2;
one/ 5; one/ one 0; one/ 25; one/ fifty; one/ one 25; one/ 500; one/ one 250; sec, as well as extracts " IN "
and " D ". The device has a built-in automatic descent with a preliminary stroke of 1 0—
one 5 sec
and a synchro device for the flash of the vacuum tube.
eleven 3
 The shutter mechanism is interlocked with the film movement
mechanism and the frame counter. The device has an indicator of the
type and sensitivity of the charged film.
Camera " Kiev- 4 A " different from model " Kiev- 4"
the fact that it does not have an exposure meter.
Camera device type " Kiev " refers to the most complex structures.
Therefore, before starting to repair any part of the camera, you need to be
very careful; trace and establish exactly where and what the malfunction
of the mechanism or auxiliary fittings is. Only after that you need to start
repairing. If the nature of the repair requires disassembly, then the device
must be disassembled and the malfunction eliminated. If disassembly is
not required for the repair of individual units, then the camera should not
be disassembled.

DISASSEMBLY OF THE CAMERA

The reliability of the repair always depends on the ability to carefully

disassemble and assemble the camera. Models of cameras type " Kiev " are
designed in such a way that when almost any malfunction is rectified, the
camera must be disassembled.

Disassembling the camera should begin with removing the lens and
back cover. Then the screws are removed from the inside of the camera,
which are located near the forks.

After that, you need to disassemble the speed dial. For this purpose,
three screws are removed, which are located on the circumference of the
scaly rim of the limb. After removing the screws, carefully remove the
inner flange with the release button and remove the coil spring. There are
three screws under the flange that secure the factory dial. By unscrewing
these screws, remove the factory limb. After that, it is necessary to
remove the ring with the speed indicators, for which two screws are
unscrewed - 1 and 2 ( fig. eleven 6).

Then you should disassemble the film rewinding units. Having tightened
the rewind fork, unscrew the limb together with the axis. If you need to
remove the flange, then unscrew the three screws near the plug and remove
everything together. Now unscrew all the screws located on the inside of the
camera, near the forks, and finally, unscrew the screw (Fig. 11 7),

eleven 4
Figure: eleven 6. Screws
speed scales

Figure: eleven 8. Fastening the frame

Figure: eleven nine. Machine frame fixing screws

 remove the top cover. Now remove the frame by unscrewing four screws
- one,
2, 3, 4 ( fig. eleven 8) and the screw in the toggle button entry hole 5. Only
after removing all these screws can
remove the frame.
Further disassembly for
Turns on to remove the entire shutter
mechanism. To do this, from the top
parts cameras you-
screw three screws - one, 2, 3
( fig. eleven nine) and one screw from the bottom of
the camera (Fig. 1 twenty). After deleting
these screws
mechanism, Caution
shaking, separated from the camera.
Figure: one twenty. Mounting screw If the camera
in apparatus there is
mechanism at the bottom of the synchro device, then unsolder
is
wiring from the outlet. To do this with
on the left side, where the cassette is placed, remove the cover.

At this point, the main disassembly of the chamber can be considered

finished. Further disassembly of the apparatus will be discussed where
recommendations for the repair of individual camera units are given.

CAMERA BODY

Camera wrapping. Under no circumstances should syndeticone

glue be used for gluing the leather, as it causes corrosion and further
deteriorates the apparatus.
In order to glue the lagging part of the skin to the device, take shellac
glue or glue " BF- 2 " and, having cleaned the skin and part of the body
from dirt, the places of gluing are greased with glue, then, having allowed
it to dry a little, they are glued into place.

To ensure that the skin adheres smoothly and well, the surface is
lightly smoothed with a soft cloth (see chapter
" Cameras " Moscow ", p. 40).
Tripod socket. Do not allow the tripod socket at the connection
points to be relaxed. When the unit is mounted on a tripod, it may be
pulled out of the mount from an accidental shock and be severely
damaged.

eleven 6
 From the inside
parts - there are four screws securing the socket. After unscrewing all
four screws, clean off dirt and dust at the joints and install the socket in
its original place. New screws are taken to secure the socket. If the
screws are loose and wobble in the threads, new ones must be made
with the expectation of thickening so that they fit exactly the size of the
threads in the chamber cover.

Cover lock. The lid comes off and does not lock in case of
constipation. This malfunction may damage the cover and light up the
film.

Figure: one 2 1. Fixing the cover lock

To eliminate the malfunction, take a screwdriver with a width of 4-5 mm,

place it on the tab (lock position limiter) so that it touches the base of the
cover (fig. 1 2 1), and with a blow of a small hammer upset the stopper to
the lock sleeve. This is done with great care, so as not to damage the
tongue itself. In no case should the tongue bend with its upper part to the
sleeve, as it will come off again, and upon repeated approach it may
completely break off.

Pinch roller bar on the back of the camera.

In the event of a malfunction of the pressure roller bar, the film slips and
its movement is disturbed.

When correcting this defect, soak part of the pasting with alcohol.
When the skin is well wet, it is separated from the body and 4- mm use a
drill to make a small countersink in places of rivets and separate the bar
with a roller. In the bracket that holds the pressure roller, knock out old
rivets from the nests and clean the place of the joint.

eleven 7
 dignity. Having made two aluminum rivets exactly along the holes, put the
bracket in its original place and, putting the cover with the rivet heads on
the plane of the anvil, try to rivet the rivet tightly and evenly with the
blows of a small hammer
eating rivets, oiled
glue the skin and p former place.

FUR NIYA FILM

Factory and re serviceability in the mechanism

factory and re damages the perforation of my
on film or to movement mechanism
film.
Zeget m case unscrew
plug and take out b. For this you need a plug
hold, and turn the limb against the direction of the arrow. After removing the
accumulation of dirt at the joints, the axle is lubricated, put in place and
tightened with a fork. After that, the limb is vigorously scrolled in both
directions and, after charging the apparatus, the movement of the film is
checked.
P ere to about with l and mb and about a reversal shift - ki. Here you
only need to remove the rewind dial. To do this, it is necessary to unscrew
the screw in the center of the limb, having previously noted the place of
the skew, and
align it on a flat piece of textolite
or other
similar plastics blow
a small hammer. After that, the limb is put in
place and well secured with a screw. If the first
time failed
eliminate skew,
the operation is repeated and they do this until,
when turning by the plug, the limb begins to
rotate smoothly without touching the cover of the
apparatus. Take-up coil. For

troubleshooting the system

Figure: one 22. Friction the take-up coil comes next
naya foster fork in a blowing manner. Unscrew the
screw
coils fixing plug frictional
transmission ( fig. one 22), extract
coil spring, remove accumulation of dust and oil, rinse the spring and

eleven 8
washers in gasoline. Then the spring is stretched a little in length and,
lightly greased with thick grease, set in place. Putting the washers in their
places, put on a plug, put the upper pressure washer on the square and
fix it with a screw. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the washer
sat down to failure on the square (sharpening on the clutch axis).

Frame counter loosely screwed on, strays from installation and

confuses the frame count.
The malfunction occurs due to the weakening of the fifth
friction spring. To eliminate the problem, you must remove the
top cover and the frame counter dial.

The counter is placed on the bottom of the anvil bone so

that it cannot move. The friction spring can be bent flat or with a
strong screwdriver. It is necessary to bend them inside the
washer. This is not done right away, but post bending each
antenna separately and checking

slippage, as otherwise the graduated disc may be tightly clamped and it

will be difficult to turn it to zero.

SHUTTER MECHANISM

When set to speed, only one shutter speed is released. Causes of

malfunctions: 1) the fixing lever is stuck one ( fig. one 23); 2)

spring came off 2, which

must be on the spring holder
3; 3) holder
springs 3 shifted to the side.
In the first case, the malfunction is
eliminated following
way: a safety razor blade or a thin

plate. A place
arm position is wetted
gasoline. Then use a screwdriver to move Figure: one
locking lever and rod
23. Location
lever several times to the right and women
to the left. If after
eleven nine
this lever, a little otto the help of the
spring on its finished one. Knot
where nah
zine
second
putting on
springs
( springs
IN
springs
showing
putting on
pulling
assembly.
Figure: one 24. Installation of a pru- When the shutter is wound, the upper curtain
women slides downwards, forming
slit. Malfunction - the fixing hook came off
4 ( fig. one 25).
When correcting, unscrew the screws from the shutter factory dial
and film rewind dial, as indicated

Figure: one 25. Location of curtains

shutter

shown above. Remove the cover, then unscrew the screws from the frame one,
2, 3, 4 ( fig. eleven 8) and the screw located in the frame hole at the bottom 5, then,
pulling the frame downwards, separate it from the camera.

one twenty
 Putting the factory limb in its place and fixing it with three screws, the
shutter is started. Having determined the inaccuracy of the contact of the
antennae of the lower curtain 3 and fixing hook 4 ( fig. one 25), bend the
hook so that it con-

Figure: one 26. Crochet curtain

the grip chuck went deep below the antennae 3 and did not lower the
curtain if pulled downwards (fig. 1 26).
After making sure that the hook locks the shutter correctly, check the
shutter release from the hook. If, when the trigger is pressed, the hook
does not release the curtain, it is bent up.

Do this carefully and bend very slightly

but, no more than 0.5 mm.

Fine adjustment of the grip and release
by the hook of the curtain
carried out by
screw 4 ( fig. one 26).
The shutter curtain works with
interruptions: gets stuck, gives
imprecise speeds. Why-
on - the skin has come off the drum of the
curtain (Fig. 1 27). Figure: one 27. Skin peeled off
For eliminating unrecognized tension drum
rightness disassemble the camera.
The lower curtain is raised by the shutter. Partially peeled skin is
smeared with shellac glue and,
one 2 one
after letting it dry, they glue the skin in place, evenly and tightly pressing it with
your finger against the drum. If the skin has come off completely, it is removed
from under the drum, places
gluing is cleaned, preliminary
but moistened with alcohol. Then, lubricating the skin and me

shell
aid
again
and sleep
pasted
to the bar
priest
cameras
put in place, good, but not overly tight.

In no case can you choose

Figure: one 28. Tooth offset- pull the cord protecting
chat roller on the camera from dust and
arrow
The smallest in pieces films.
The lace is glued into place immediately after installing the frame.
Replacing the frame is a bit of a challenge, so a few words need to be
said about it. When

Figure: one 29. Installing the frame

installing the frame in its place, shift the gear roller to the side, as indicated
by the arrow 2 on. fig. one 28, while doing this, so that the pressure sleeve
does not fall out one, The sleeve must also be pushed all the way to the
side indicated

one 22
arrow. Now take the frame, lay it slightly below its location and move it in
the direction indicated by the arrow in fig. one 29. Then, turning the roller
by the teeth, through the window in the lower part of the chamber, use a
screwdriver to push the sleeve into place one ( fig. one 28). Making sure
that the sleeve is down in place, wax the screw to the screwdriver

one thirty).
Installing the screw into the
bushings, carefully tightening
screwdriver. After this
screw everything
frame and put on the top
After tightening all its screws, proceed to
further assembly.
When the shutter is wound, the
lower curtain is not pulled up,
works by breaking down. Malfunction
- side springs are loose Fig. one thirty. Screw locating
curtain locks. in the hole of the button
To troubleshoot film roll
it is necessary to bend the springs
side locks 1 and 5 ( fig. one 25) so that their antennae completely enter
the holes 2 and 6. If the spring of the locks is damaged and it cannot be
bent

Figure: one 3 1. Spring bar

place, you need to see the plate. For this you need to unscrew the
screws 2 and 5 ( fig. one 26) and, after aligning the curvature of the plane,
shape it as long as it is. one 3 one . Then the bar is installed in its original
place and fixed in the intami. For this, it is necessary, on the other hand,
to do it at a time, so as not to damage the blind.

one 23
 Making sure that the antennae cling well to the openings of the upper
curtain and do not break off when pulled, proceed to assembly

Replacing the ribbon

push the spring retainer to the side,

lower it carefully
spring tension, pressing
May fingers roller one, on the
Figure: one 32. Removing the torus roller there is a skin sticker
cameras ( fig. one 26). A thin screwdriver
push out left right
the inner axis of the drum. If the axle cannot be pushed out, completely
unscrew the screw indicated in Fig. one 38, without separating it from the
spring, and release

Figure: one 33. Spring roller and shutter curtain

fixing sector. After that, the axis can be freely shifted to the right and the
left side of the roller can be released (Fig. 1 32). After that, pulling the
roller a little to the left, take it out together with the shutter from the
apparatus casing (Fig. 1 33) and begin to replace the tape. Using the
thinnest screwdriver, push the ribbon into the slot of the drum (Fig. 1 34) and,
bending the tip of the ribbon,

one 24
I sew neatly right next to
drum 2 ( rice twice
cut the thread and not end
ribbons.
the end is threaded into
top of INTO
After this ribbon
put in the slot
curtains (fig. 1 36)
equal tension
sew the tip off
curtain sides.
Now you can will come
drink to assembly. At first
insert in hole Fig. one 34. Pushing the flax
right end drum. dots per cushion drum
Then, pushing through to the right
the inner axis, place its left side in place. Insert a small screwdriver into
the slot of the roller on the right

Figure: one 35. Connected Figure: one 36. Graduate

ribbons with ba- fastening
rabanchik ribbons

and counterclockwise pull the spring

( fig. one 37) until, having started the shutter and set the speed to " IN ", the
curtain will evenly descend and wedge into the tendrils of the curtain lock. When
doing this, do not over-tighten the spring, as it can break. After checking the
operation of the shutter, they shift the lock of the drum roller into its place, into
the slot of which the recording

one 25
 tapered end of the roller. Firmly tighten the screw shown in fig. one 38, proceed
to further assembly.
The assembly of the apparatus is done with extreme care. Every
detail ryaz and dust, battery

Figure: one 37. Roller spring tension

It fits into place and is tightly tightened with screws. Gaskets, washers
and auxiliary shields should not be removed from the device without
reason. All this
it is necessary to carefully put in the
right order in the places from which they
were removed, and fasten tightly with
screws.
Synchro device. For
shooting with electronic flash
in construction
camera " Kiev " done
Synchro device working
Figure: one 38. The screw is synchronous with the camera shutter.
spring lock Synchronization shutter
camera with flash
carried out with the help of special contacts installed in the inner part of
the chamber. The contact device is connected via an insulated wire to a
plug-in socket attached to the front of the camera.

The synchro device of the device consists of a dielectric plate placed

on the left side of the mechanism frame. This plate has metal con-

one 26
ticks and the lever with which the closure occurs. The arm is secured
with a screw in such a way that it can swing freely. One part of the lever
is located near the contact, and the other is brought out to the curtain
and is located at the very base of the frame 7 ( fig. one 39).

When the release button is pressed, the first curtain is lowered and,
having reached the bottom, during full disclosure, presses on the lever,
which presses on the contact and thereby closes the synchro circuit.

To the camera " Kiev " all devices for both impulse and one-time flash
can be used, of course, provided the apparatus has a corresponding
plug.

However, one should take into account the fact that the shutter
speed in the apparatus " Kiev " They are carried out not only with the help
of spring tension, but are also determined by the passage of a slot of
various opening sizes. This circumstance makes it necessary to
reproduce shooting with a flash lamp with a shutter speed of at least 1 / 25
sec. When shooting with a disposable photo lamp, the most appropriate
shutter speed is 1/1 0 sec.

It is quite natural that with such a design of the synchro device, when
the shutter is not turned on, the contacts of the electric circuit are closed,
therefore, connecting or disconnecting lighting devices, as well as
installing a new lamp, should be done only when the shutter is turned on.

It must be remembered that when testing lighting fixtures or checking

sync contacts, the shutter must be started immediately after the flash.

INSTALLATION n e and with r e s t e s. When-

going to troubleshoot the synchronizer, first check the connecting socket
on the outside and inside for a light bulb. If this does not detect a
malfunction, disassemble the camera and check the device.

Sometimes, even with closed contacts, the current does not pass
through the circuit, then the contacts are well cleaned with the finest emery
cloth, and then wiped with a cotton swab dipped in gasoline.

In the sync device of the machine " Kiev " it is necessary to carefully
check the operation of the closing lever 7
( fig. one 39). On the one hand, the lever should move the con-

one 27
cycle as long as it takes to close, that is, until the contacts fully touch 5 and
6. On the other hand, where the curtain presses on the lever, it must
maintain a strictly defined position to coordinate the work

with a curtain. The lever should move

freely, but not have significant lateral

backlash. When detection

large backlash unscrew
screw securing the lever and put thin
metal washers of the desired

thickness and diameter.

U s t a n about in k a from and n-
x r about k about n t and to about in. Mouth-
new synchro devices in
apparatus " Kiev " can be produced in
different ways. Consider
two major option
setting the synchro device in
apparatus " Kiev ".
Figure: one 39. Device diagram About one of these options
synchronizer in the device we have already mentioned in
" Kiev ": the beginning of this section. This
one - camera shutter; 2 - the root of the synchronizer; 3 - plug- option
is an most
core connection; 4 - electric wire; 5- large closing contact reliable, but more
niya; 6 - small closing contact; complicated.
7 - sync lock lever
Taken dielectric
plate thickness within
one mm. A small panel is cut from this plate 4,
the dimensions and shape of which are shown in Fig. one 40. Two metal
contacts made of elastic brass are fixed on this socket. The ends of the
contacts are made of silver. Contact thickness 0.2-0.3 mm, width of each
contact 2-2.5 mm. One contact 2 is made longer and the other 3 - shorter.
Both contacts are fixed on the socket at a distance 2 mm apart. At the
bottom, near the contacts, a swinging metal lever is fastened with a
screw with a wide head one, whose thickness should be equal to 1, 5 mm,
length - one 2 mm, and the base of the working arm for closing - 7 mm. The
screw must have a neck smaller than the head diameter and significantly
larger than the thread diameter. The height of the neck, which will be

one 28
the lever is put on, it should be greater than the thickness of the lever by so much
that when tightening the screw, the lever is not clamped, but can rotate freely.

When installing and attaching the smaller contact to the panel, make
sure that its rivets are spread

Figure: one 40. Sizes of parts of the synchro device

apparatus " Kiev "( in mm)
put closer to each other and were completely isolated.

The entire socket with levers is mounted on the left side inside the
frame of the mechanism. For this, a hole is first drilled for the electrical
cable. This hole must not exceed 2 mm. The locations of the holes for the
screws securing the socket are determined by the installation location of
the socket itself, during its adjustment. On the side of the mechanism
frame, where the socket with sync contacts is installed, there is a hole
with a larger diameter, so it is necessary to strengthen the smaller
contact so that its rivets coincide with this hole when installing the socket.
In other words, the rivets securing the small contact should not touch the
body and be completely isolated from the entire mechanism. The second
(larger) contact, on the other hand, must be well grounded to the chassis.

A thin stranded wire is soldered to the insulated contact 4 from good

insulation (fig. 1 39).
Before inserting the mechanism into the chamber, a hole with a
diameter of 2 mm so that it exactly matches the hole in the frame made
for the electrical cable. Putting the end of the wire into this hole, pull it
through so much that

5 M.F. Yakovlev one 29

solder to the connecting socket. Then the whole mechanism is inserted
into the case and, after tightening the screws, the synchro device is
tested.
The second scheme of the sync-contact closure device is much
simpler, but it is associated with a difficult
with the required cutout
in the frame of the shutter mechanism.
On the left side of the frame, at the side
wall, stepping back by 1 mm from the
base of the frame, make a cutout depth 4 mm

and length 1 5- one 7 mm. Then made

small
dielectric socket
thick 0.5-0.8 mm. The area of this
socket 7 X one 4 mm.
A silver plastic is attached to this
socket.
teen whose end is bent at right angles
and has
Figure: one 4 1. Single-contact circuit length 2.5 mm ( nine in Fig. 1 4 one).
sync closure The length of this contact is
swarms: read so that it
one - body; 2— closing contact;
3 - dielectric socket; 4 - located in the corner of the frame, at
the wire; 5 - connecting socket; 6— attachment point of the the very top, without touching
mass
electric

tact on the case; 7 - curtain; housing. Contact plate

8 - the point of pressing the shutter to the closure contact; nine - closing point becomes thick 0.3-0.4
contact mm and width 2— 2, 5 mm.
Dielectric socket from so contact
attaches to the top of the frame cutout so that
the contact could not come into contact with the body and was located just
in the body cutout. To the top of the contact
a thin electrical wire is soldered and fed to the Principal
central contact connective sockets.
schema such devices
synchro-closure is shown in Fig. one 4 1. After the final strengthening of
the contact, it is necessary
check its springiness and the location of the bend in the curtain strip at
corner of the case. The circuit is closed by pressing
the point 8 to bend contact nine in that
the moment when the shutter goes down and gives full opening of the
frame window.
The device of the connecting socket is shown in fig. 87.

one thirty
 YUSTIRO

Rangefinder adjustment
differs significantly from the adjustment of the rangefinder in the camera "
FED " or " Vigilant ". The fact is that the rangefinder of the camera " Kiev " besides
the fact that it is connected in one field of view with the viewfinder, it. It
also has a direct connection to the barrel of the lens barrel, which
ensures the accuracy of aiming the lens in focus and reduces the
possibility of some deviations when deformation of the mechanisms
appears. In and-

Figure: one 42, Viewfinder-rangefinder diagram

apparatus " Kiev "

camera finder-rangefinder " Kiev " consists of a beam splitting unit of

prisms, a wedge with a variable angle and a telescopic device (Fig. 1 42).

Rangefinder beam splitter glued from two prisms - 3

and one 2. The place where the prisms are glued has a translucent mirror
layer. The optical compensator consists of two lenses: plano-convex 7, fixed
on a movable bracket nine, and flat-concave 8, fixed motionless in a
metal frame. Offset bracket nine goes around a circle defined by the
curvature of the lens 8, and thereby changes the angle of the transmitted
light beam.

Bracket movement nine carried out by a gear system. At the moment

of rotation of the gear wheel 6
the gear rotates 5 and turning the worm gear 4, focuses the lens.

one 3 one
 Simultaneously through the gearbox eleven with a lever one 0
the bracket is displaced nine, which establishes, respectively, the
focusing of the tube identical indicators of the footage.

In the branch of the rear part of the prism, in the field of view of the
rangefinder, a telescopic viewfinder is mounted, consisting of two lenses;
negative 2 and positive one.

All this design of the rangefinder provides quite accurate focusing

and reliability in operation. However, despite such a reliable device, there
are times when the rangefinder of the camera does not accurately show
the distance from the subject to the camera, as a result of which an
unsharp image is obtained.

It is not difficult to eliminate the divergence of the rangefinder, it is much

more difficult to get to its units of the mechanism, since this requires
disassembling the camera. To avoid almost complete disassembly of the
device, we suggest a somewhat simplified alignment method.

If the rangefinder does not have accurate focus, then at

When the lens is set to ∞, two images are visible. In order for the
rangefinder to show correct focusing, it is necessary to combine the
image of two points so that they merge into one image when aiming at ∞
To do this, it is necessary to separate the barrel tube from the gears of
the rangefinder mechanism. Released from the tube, the rangefinder
mechanism is positioned so that the images merge and have a precise
overall outline. Then the worm gear of the tube is set at ∞, after which the
tube of the frame is connected to the gear of the rangefinder. In this
case, it is necessary to ensure that the established indicators do not
budge.

This is done as follows. Unscrew six screws on the decorative plate

of the front part of the camera and separate the corner from the adhesive one
( fig. one 43)
on the left side of the flap, near the self-timer plant. Under the pasting
there is a screw that secures the decorative cover. After removing the
screw, remove the shield. The guard must be removed very carefully so
as not to bend it and not damage the protective glasses and gaskets
under it.
There are four screws under the shield that secure the worm tube
support. By unscrewing these screws (required

one 32
remember that each screw is screwed in the same place it was taken
from), remove the frame from the camera. To remove the frame, first
separate it from the bottom of the camera, and then pull

Figure: one 43. Separation of pasting when removing

shield

Figure: one 44. Rim compartment

frames (fig. 1 44). Washers can be found under the frame at the places of
the holes for the screws; they must be removed, otherwise they could get
caught in the camera mechanism. Freeing the camera body from the
frame, they find

one 33
a gear connected to the rangefinder mechanism and to a gear wheel that
transmits the rotation of the entire rangefinder system. Then aim the lens
at ∞. By rotating the aiming gear wheel, complete image alignment is
achieved, as already mentioned above. Then they take the frame, set the
tube to ∞ and insert it into the camera, while trying not to move the
rangefinder from the installation site.

When oprah will sit on the base of the

measures, it is necessary, pr altsami, check the ra-
botu rangefinder
If it turns out does not reach the right
border or n ubus must be removed
from the camera, by installation operation
rangefinder on install the frame in the
measure. After installation, check the readings of the rangefinder and,
making sure that it gives the correct readings, fix the frame with the
screws. The screws are tightened evenly one after the other until the
frame is fully secured. Now, rotating the aiming cogwheel, it is necessary
to check the smoothness of rotation of the rangefinder mechanism. If it
turns out that the aiming is difficult or not smooth, it is necessary to check
the tube screws. If it turns out that the rangefinder rotates jerky, you need
to unscrew the screws and check the position of the washers. If the
washers are misaligned, they are put in place and the frame is secured.
After securing the frame and making sure the rangefinder is working

fine, put on their places

safety glasses, gaskets,
impose and screwed
decorative cover. Do not forget that two short
screws are screwed into the shield on the left
side of the window so as not to damage the
rangefinder. After carefully tightening all the
screws, glue the corner of the leather and make
a final check.

Figure: one 45. Screw fastening Adjustment with a screw on a movable

laziness
adjusting bracket. When repairing the shutter mechanism
th when disassembly is necessary
camera, you can take the opportunity and adjust the rangefinder with a
screw located on the movable bracket (Fig. 1 45). Before adjustment, this

one 34
the screw is loosened by half a turn and the wedge is displaced in the direction
required for the correction until a clear contour is obtained when aiming at. Then the
screw is tightened and the operation of the rangefinder is checked

EC

Photovoltaic ec
is durable and accurate
When handling it, avoid sudden shocks and shocks. When
disassembling the exposure meter, the photocell must be protected from
prolonged illumination, especially from the sun.

How the exposure meter works is based on the interaction of

electric power excitations between the coil with current and the field of a
permanent magnet. The resulting torque turns the movable part of the
instrument together with the pointer.

The entire exposure meter is housed in a molded case 3 the top

cover of the camera (Fig. 1 46).

Figure: one 46. Light meter

Round magnet 3 ( fig. one 47) reinforced with a special holder - the
bracket is inside the cylindrical groove in the molding of the cover and is
located in the magnetic field of the induction frame. The frame is fixed on
two cones, forming a kind of single axis of rotation of the frame, on which
there is a pointer - arrow 5 ( fig. one 46).

one 35
 The cones supporting the frame enter with their tips into special
thrust bearings made of high-hardness stone - sapphire or agate.

Such a system of the movable frame device exists to reduce the

friction of the entire movable part of the galvanometer. The thinnest
insulated copper wire is wound on the frame 2 ( fig. one 47). Lower end

the winding goes to ground, and the

upper one is connected to the
light-sensitive plate
coy 4. Since the frame with
winding has some
the angle of movement around the
circumference of the magnet and must
have a counterweight rotating
moment with the arrow set to zero,
then for this the entire mobile
system is equipped
counter-
the current by force, co-
of spiral
Figure: one 47. Ex- device diagram standing
ponometer springs, or, as they are also called,
hairs one and 7
( fig. one 47). These hairs are made of phosphor bronze, as a result of
which they have adequate elasticity and resistance to corrosion.

Under the influence of light rays passing through a transparent

ribbed plate 4 ( fig. one 46), an electric current is generated in the
photocell. This current coming from the photocell through the wire is
passed through the coil spring. 7 ( fig. one 47) into the frame winding and
goes to ground through a spiral spring one.

The action of the current through the winding of the frame and the
intra-frame magnet of the galvanometer causes the frame to deviate, and
therefore the arrow, which is fixed on the frame. This deviation entirely
depends on the incoming light flux and the light-sensitive plate acting on
the selenium layer 4, as a result of which a current arises in the
galvanometer system, which deflects the pointer by one or another
indicator of the scale. Arrow deviation b on the scale 5 when showing the
exposure is strictly related to the rheostat nine special calculator 8 and
with a scale of sensitivity of negative material.

one 36
 Trouble-shooting. The exposure meter may be damaged
hitting photos
apparatus in sy and disruptions to work
device from p x iron particles
between the magnet windings.
Damage
tranny tol
disassembly top
photoexposure
Disassembly and repairs must be done with
great care.

S b o rk a e k s p about n about -
mera begins by removing Fig. one 48. Screws fastened
upper decorative shield. lazy flap
To remove this shield, unscrew the four screws one, 2, located on the exposure
meter (Fig. 1 48). Then remove the universal lens mountfrom bracket, the
the sides screws
of the case of
which are easy to find. The safety glass of the scale is also located here.

galvanometer, inserted in
metal frame and fixed with three screws - one, 2,
3
( fig. one 49). Unscrewing screws,
remove the glass along with the frame. Safety
cover, protected
protects the ribbed plate from the penetration of
extraneous light,
secured with two screws - one and 2
( fig. one fifty). After unscrewing them and
removing the lid, freely
Figure: one 49. Mounting screws remove the metal cover
staples and scale frames 3. To separate from the case
ribbed exposure meter
and the photocell must be unscrewed 2 ( fig. one 46),
which is located under the calculator and attaches the wiring to
variable resistance one.
To disassemble the calculator, unscrew three screws - one, 2, 3 - from the
central washer, on which the cone is marked (Fig. 1 5 one).

one 37
 After that
broach wiring
combined photocell

Figure: one fifty. Mounting screws Figure: one 5 1. Screws for fixing
protective covers the calculator

It is not difficult to replace the oval, blurred or broken glass of the

galvanometer scale with a new one. For this, the upper decoration is
removed.

Figure: one 52. Parts to be removed when disassembling ex-

ponometer:
/ - photocell cover; 2— decorative shield; 3 - galvanometer cover; - 4 - ribbed photocell pad; 5 - calculator;

6 - scale window; 7 - viewfinder bracket

tive flap 2 ( fig. one 52) and the scale window frame 6.
Then glass with a thickness of 1 - one, 5 mm and a square is cut out of it. 20x one 0
mm. The place where the contribution is
one 38
the glass is blown out, thoroughly cleaned with a screwdriver and
greased with glue " BF- 2 ". When the glue dries up a little, glass is
inserted into the frame, the edges of which are also smeared with glue.
After wiping the inner side of the glass, the frame is greased with glue,
put in place and tightened with screws.

Lost contact. In this case, check the entire wiring system of the
galvanometer, especially in the places where it is fastened with screws.
A break in the wiring is connected and soldered. If the contact is broken
at the connection points, it is necessary to unscrew the screw and clean
well the place of contact between the ends of the wiring. It should be
cleaned with a sharp scraper, and so that the smallest metal shavings do
not clog the device, the place of cleaning is lubricated with thick grease.
After stripping, the grease is removed with the tip of a cloth soaked first
in gasoline and then in ether, and finally wiped with a dry cloth.

Take special care to ensure that no corrosion or dirt remains

between the contact plate and the back of the photocell.

A hair is tangled. A hair may become entangled if the camera is

dropped from a strong impact. In this case, you do not need to unsolder
a hair from the wire. We must try to untangle the hair with a finely and
sharply pointed stick. To do this, take a magnifying glass and, looking at
the hair, untangle it with the thin end of the stick. If it is not possible to
untangle the hair in this way, its end is soldered off with a small thin
soldering iron. Then, unscrewing the screws and removing the upper
bar, unravel the hair with the sharp ends of copper tweezers.

Removal m e l h a y w and x iron

shavings. As has already been said, the seizure of the galvanometer
occurs from the ingress of the smallest iron shavings, sawdust and dust
particles into it. Removing them with brushes or various tweezers is
almost impossible, since the magnet strongly attracts iron particles to its
surface. Such iron particles can be easily and easily removed with a
magnetic screwdriver. Arming the eye with a magnifying glass, one
examines where the particles are on the magnet. Then, leaning the
screwdriver against the edge of the case, lower it, directing the end to
the particle attracted by the magnet. As soon as the screwdriver reaches
the particle, the particle will jump to its end. From-

one 39
the twist is pulled out and the particle is removed from it. In this way, all
iron particles adhering to the magnet are caught. As for other particles
caught in the galvanometer, they can be removed with a small gentle
brush, and then blown off the galvanometer from

air jets.
P o d r e gul and r o v a -
n and e shkaly carry out adjusting
screw,
which is located on the back of the
exposure meter body
Figure: one 53. Adjustment screw ( fig. one 53). This screw has
exposure meter scales slot into which the screwdriver is inserted.
By turning insert-
When a screwdriver is inserted into the slot, the scale of indications is displaced, which
makes it possible to adjust the readings of the exposure meter.
 CHAPTER nine

CAMERAS „ ZENIT-S "I „ ZENITH"

Camera " Zenith "- a small-format SLR camera that combines the
focusing of the image and at the same time framing the subject. Such a
device completely replaces the rangefinder and viewfinder.

Repair of a camera presents some difficulty only in connection with

the design of the optical system, which is closely related to mirror image
transmission. All other nodes almost do not differ from the device type
devices " FED " and " Vigilant ".

Camera " Zenit-S " has a mirror-prism device for focusing the lens and
for sighting.

A direct image is obtained on a matte glass surface using a shooting

lens, penta-prism and an angled mirror 45 °. The mirror is designed so
that when the shutter is released, it instantly retracts, freeing the path for
light to the plane of the negative material.

DISASSEMBLY OF THE CAMERA

Disassembling the camera " Zenith " differs significantly from the
disassembly of other cameras.
Top cover. It is necessary to disassemble the device after removing
all external fittings. The top cover is detached first. To do this, unscrew
two screws from the back - 1 and 3 ( fig. one 54). Then two screws from
the front and from the sides. Next, unscrew the two locking screws on
the speed dial and the synchro device scale screw. Then, gently
shaking, remove the cover.

one 4 one
 If a complete disassembly of the device is required, the safety cover
is put back in place without tightening the screws.

Figure: one 54. Cover fixing screws

Casing. Further disassembly requires the removal of the casing.

You don't have to shoot for this.

Figure: one 55. Removing the decorative cover

lens reference plane ring. Unscrew the six screws located on the upper
shoulder and two screws at the bottom on the front side of the casing.
Trying to prevent the springs and the pressure plate from falling out, pull
the casing downward (Fig. 1 55).

one 42
 Pentaprism. Now it is necessary to remove the pentaprism. Using a
screwdriver of the exact size in the slot, unscrew two screws - one and 2 ( fig.
one 56), remove the pentaprism and

Figure: one 56.

put it in the box

prism, and the screws are put in place.
Mirror device. After that, remove the mirror
Calculation device associated with the prism pad. This device has a grip
on the lower base of the mechanism.

Figure: one 57. Mirror mounting system

one 43
nism, where fixing
put the mirror into working position. First unscrew the screw 2 ( fig. one 57) on
the cushion frame, clamping the pad for the hook overhang and its
adjustment. Then, unscrewing the two screws - 5 and 4, remove the
overlay 3. Unscrew two screws from the bottom of the camera base - 6 and

8, - which secure the swing arm bar for retracting the mirror retainer.
Next, remove the mirror retainer one. Separating the spring at a point 3 ( fig.
one 58),

i •.

Figure: one 58. Removing levers from internal

her part of the camera

the lever is easily removed from the pin at the top of the latch. Then
unscrew the screw 7, located between two holes (fig. 1 57), and remove
the bar with the lever 2
( fig. one 58).
When you reach the mirror lifting mechanism, you need to be
especially careful, since the work of the mirror is carried out by a special
winch one ( fig. one 59), located at the bottom of the chamber. Its
structure is very complex. To understand how it works, you need to click
the shutter several times.

To remove the mirror device, remove the end of the spring 2 from the
axis of the winch block. Then, the three screws that secure the
pentaprism pad are unscrewed. Having taken out the pillow, unscrew the
winch axis with a long screwdriver (the slot for the screwdriver is in the
same place where the tip of the spring is inserted). Release the lace from
the auxiliary roller 3, remove the whole mechanism

one 44
from the chamber together with the winch block. Disassembly ends by
removing the three screws located on the top of the cover. Removing
these screws separates the frame from the cover, and the disassembly is
mostly complete.

Figure: one 59. Mirror lifting mechanism

CAMERA BODY

The tripod socket is loose. For satisfied

To fix the malfunction, unscrew the three screws securing the socket,
clean the dirt from the attachment points, reinstall the socket and secure
with the screws. If the screws do not hold, they are replaced with new
ones. If screws of the required size are not available, the tripod socket
can be reinforced with old screws. To do this, carefully rivet all the
screws, placing the cover so that the screw heads rest on the flat plane
of the anvil. On the reverse side, a center punch is placed on the screws
and riveted with weak hammer blows. This loosening of screws is only
allowed in exceptional cases when it is impossible to get or make new
screws.

The castle is scrolling does not fix the position of the cover
closure. To restore the lock operation, remove the bottom cover and
unscrew the lock fastening screw (Fig. 1 60). After removing the lock, a
screw is found in the guide slot. If the screw is accidentally turned out, it
is inserted into the hole and firmly tightened

one 45
screwdriver. If the screw has a damaged thread, make a new screw and
install it in its place
( fig. one 6 one). In this case, it is necessary to ensure that

Figure: one 60. Appa castle Figure: one 6 1. Screw and lock device
rata " Zenith "

the lock correctly sat on the edge of the pivot hinge with the position of the
movable sector on the lock and when the arrow is pointed to " Close ".

FILM MOVEMENT MECHANISM

The mechanism does not turn off for rewinding. In the block of the
release button there is a clutch that serves to turn off the shutter
mechanism and makes it possible to rewind the film into the cassette. By
pressing this clutch and simultaneously turning it all the way to the stop,
the mechanism starts rewinding. Sometimes the switching operation is
impaired due to loosening or loss of the screw. one ( fig. one 62), which
secures the shift clutch.

If the screw is not tightened, it is necessary to unscrew it and check

the condition of the thread on it. To make the screw thread clearly
visible, it is viewed through a magnifying glass. If the thread is intact, the
screw is inserted into the socket of the coupling and is screwed down to
failure with a thin screwdriver, without using force. If the thread is
damaged, it is necessary to make a new screw with a good thread.

one 46
 Mechanism not submits film. P
the coil on which the film is wound at the shutter factory is put
on the friction
2 ( fig. one 62), which, due to slipping,
compensates
film feed. Tension difference
axes happens from
increase diameter at
winding the film onto a spool. In case of
malfunction of the friction
roller often happens
jamming shutter and film
torn.
Malfunction happens
or from the ingress of lubricant into the
slipping
clutch connections, or from weak spring
pressure 3. In either case, the roller is
removed. For this, it is necessary to
unscrew the fastening axis, on which

is friction
roller. There are two slots on the axle,
into which a wide screwdriver is inserted.
The axis is unscrewed by turning against

clockwise
Friction axle movement. After removing the clutch, carefully wipe Figure: one 62.
take-up reel
its joints are clean
dry cloth. To ensure tighter slippage, the spring is slightly stretched and
the clutch is installed in place.

The lack of film feed by the gear drum with a simultaneous violation
of the shutter winding occurs from the loss of the screw one ( fig. one 62). The
screw / may loosen gradually during long-term operation and can be
unscrewed from the thread. If a screw is lost, it is rebuilt. The total screw
length must not exceed

3 mm, thread length 1, 5 mm, head 1, 5 mm. Head diameter 1, 5 mm, thread
diameter 1 mm. To screw the screw into place, the toothed drum is
installed with the slot up and, holding the teeth, slowly turn

one 47
the speed dial is set until a hole appears in the slot, which is located on
the inner sleeve. The screw is inserted into the hole and screwed down
until it stops.
When the shutter is wound, the limb does not keep in the
wound position, departs. The malfunction occurs due to damage to the
retaining spring located under the pinion of the friction roller.

Correcting this node is described in the description of the repair of

cameras " FED " and " Vigilant ". The same description should be followed
when replacing in the camera " Zenith " shutters and ribbons and when
adjusting the slits for different shutter speeds.

SHUTTER MECHANISM

The speed setting dial does not work. When the dial is set to one
or another shutter speed, the dial is not fixed in the preset position, and
the set speeds get lost.

The malfunction comes from the loosening of the locking screws

securing the limb.
There are two set screws on the bottom of the neck of the dial.
Before tightening these screws, start the camera shutter and set the dial
to " IN ". After installing the dial, the shutter is given a shutter speed to
determine the position of the speed indicator. After confirming that the
shutter speed is correct, the dial is set back to " IN ", since when you push
the shutter, it may move and show a different speed. After accurately
setting the dial to " IN " tighten the locking screws. While tightening the
screws, hold the dial so that it does not move. After fixing the limb, check
the operation of the shutter and the correct position of the limb.

Synchro device. Synchronization device operation in the device " Zenit-S

" occurs in the following order (Fig. 1 63).
When the shutter button is pressed, the first curtain is reset. At the
same time, the speed division flange rotates around its axis one, on
which the contact is strengthened nine. At the moment when the shutter
goes down to the border of the frame disclosure, contact nine

will reach the spring contact 2 and closes the whole circuit.

one 48
 However, with
closed and
drive production
To hut

Figure: one 63. Synchronization diagram in the device " Zenit-S "

additional contacts 8, a so that these contacts can open after the shutter
is triggered, an insulating column is attached to the upper contact in its
lower branch one 0, which, after the shutter is released, is opened by the
lever eleven. The purpose of the latch -

keep the second curtain open until a certain time. The latch works in the
synchro device as follows. Its upper position is constantly held by a leaf
spring one, shown in fig. one 64. When you press the release button, the
spring plate is squeezed out, dragging the lever with it eleven ( fig. one 63).
Coming down, lever eleven frees the support of the column one 0, which,
by virtue of its elasticity, rushes downward; as a result, the contacts are
closed 8.

one 49
The cycle of this work should occur much earlier than the shutter opens
and the contact closes. nine with contact 2, All connections and contacts,
except for the speed flange one and the contact attached to it nine, completely
isolated from

masses. Contact 2 It has

ring-shaped with one bent end at a point 2. This
ring is connected to a metal sleeve 5, but has
no contact with her,

So as detached
insulating pad 6. This whole system (shaded
in the figure) including the gasket 6,

can be displaced around its axis according to the

designation on the chamber cover from 0 before 25.
This displacement is carried out
special
Figure: one 64. Lamellar leash, located under
spring speedlimb. In fig. one 63
the leash has a conditional shape and
indicated by a number 3, When this leash is displaced in the direction of
increasing digital designation, the contact closure is advanced. nine, a hence
the outbreak itself.

By carefully tracing the entire circuit of the synchro device, you can
easily identify a malfunction in the synchro system and make the
necessary repairs.
The contacts are not loose when the shutter is in operation.
For eliminating malfunctions take off
top cover and, as mentioned above, with the help of a light bulb and a
battery of a flashlight or from another power source in 3-5 in check the
entire synchronization system via the plug 4 ( fig. one 63).

Often, checking the entire system from the impulse socket to the contact
arrangement 8, find that the top contact is not in contact with the bottom. This
happens from the strong squeezing of the upper contact from the lower: the
upper contact does not reach the lower one, although the lever eleven went
down and freed the post from the stop.

To restore the contacts, unscrew the screws one, 2 and 4 ( fig. one 65) and
remove the entire carriage with contacts. Having removed the carriage,
carefully bend the upper

one fifty
contact downwards so that it always comes into contact with the lower
contact and is obligatory only when the lever is lowered eleven ( fig. one 63).
When the lever is inoperative eleven, when it is lifted, the contacts
should be open.

Figure: one 65. Installing the syncron carriage

ticks

Violation of the work of a to ltsev about a contact 2 ( fig. one 63) may
come from poor contact with contact 7. To restore contact functionality 2 and
7 need contact 7 bend so that it is firmly in contact with the contact ring 2.

The same violation can occur when the contact is working. nine. This
is detected if all contacts are working properly. However, to detect
contact failure nine is possible only after the shutter is released. When
after triggering the contact nine will come to the position indicated in fig.
one 63 dotted line, check how well the contacts are in contact nine and 2.
If they do not touch well, they are bent and thereby achieve a good
contact.

After operation, the electronic lamp will continue to flash p about and
z in about l n about. Malfunction occurs from damage or from popping
out of the column one 0.

When correcting, clean the socket for fastening the column and make
a column with a diameter of 1, 5 mm ebonite
one 5 one
or from another Column total height
from the plate should not exceed 4 mm. The post is greased with glue
and installed in its socket. After installing the post, it is necessary to
check whether the upper contact is well pressed against the lower one.
After making sure that it is in good condition, install the carriage with
contacts in its place and fix it with screws.

Plug socket 2 ( fig. one 66), fixed on the lid, connects to the sync contact
system by means of a contact one ( fig. eleven 4). The moment the cover

is established on his a place,

tail of the plug socket, one
( fig. one 66) falls on the spring
bend synchro device 3 ( fig. one 65).
Reliability contact all the time
saved due to the springiness of the bend. If this
contact is not bent up well enough, there will be
no short circuit.

When finalized
the lead leash must be monitored so that the
annular contact is in its original position. Such

Figure: one 66. Place of installation

define by
plug position is easy
nests
pre-made recess for the locking screw on the
carriage neck
synchro-closure. U s t a n about in k a
with and nkh ro about k about n t and to about in. For installations
sync devices in the camera " Zenith " primarily
determine the most convenient location for the plug socket. This place
can be from the front of the top cover, and from the back, and from the
side. The best place to install the socket can be considered the place on
the left on the top of the cover, at the point 2 ( fig. one 66),

or at the point 2 ( fig. one 54).

A small depression is made at the selected point and a hole is drilled
to strengthen the nest. The socket is fastened to the cover from the
inside with a clamping nut or soldered. A rectangular plate is then made
from ebonite or other similar material. The dimensions of the plate are
determined by the place of its fitting. A silver contact with a thickness of
no more than 0.5 mm and width 1 mm. This contact

one 52
is mounted on the plate so that it cannot come into contact with surrounding
metal structures when it is mounted on the camera. The length of the contact
depends on the distance from the latch the plate with the contact will be fixed.
For reliable operation of the contact, it is better to fix the plate as close as
possible to the latch that makes the closing. The fact is that when the shutter
release button is pressed, the first curtain is lowered, and the second is held at
this time by the latch until it is pushed back by the cam connected to the first
curtain. Just at the moment of movement, the latch will touch the contact. The
contact should be installed so that it does not touch the camera base and is
below the latch. This is done so that when the shutter is wound, the latch cannot
close the contacts. When the shutter release button is not pressed, the latch is
raised and does not touch the contact when deflected. When the button is
pressed, the latch also drops downward and closes the contact when deflected.
The method of mounting and fixing the contacts is different (see the description
of the device and the installation of sync contacts in other devices).

MIRROR-TELESCOPIC DEVICE

Cameras " Zenith " and " Zenit-S " have a special device with which the image
is viewed not through a lens system of a simple viewfinder or a viewfinder
paired with a rangefinder, but through a special mirror-telescopic device
mounted in the camera of the apparatus. The whole device consists of precise
optical parts and a special mirror with external amalgam, mounted on a hinge
with a precise calculation in relation to the matte surface of the collecting lens.
The mechanics of such a device require special attention and careful handling.
Therefore, when disassembling and repairing the device, do not use force or
rush.

Damage to the telescopic mirror mechanism

systems can be very different: rope wear, jamming of the rope on the auxiliary
pulley, tangling of the rope in the winch, premature dropping of the mirror,
jamming on the hook stop, etc.

one 53
 All these are damaged
first glance. The poet
mont to study at least the
slightest bit of work and

When watching
we don't think
makes pentaprism. The inverted image of the pentaprism coming from
the mirror directs it into the eye as we see it in reality.

Schematic diagram of a telescopic mirror

of the device working in conjunction with the lens is shown in Fig. one 67: one
- observer's eye and eyepiece,
2 - pentaprism, 3 - objective lens system, 4 - non-working position of the
mirror, 5 - lens with matte surface

Figure: one 67. Mirror telescopic diagram

device that works in conjunction with the lens

bone, 7 - the mirror is tilted to the working position,

8 - the plane of the negative material placement, 6 -
the central part of the mirror, dividing into equal parts the beam of light
going to the matte surface of the lens and to the focal plane, where the
negative material is located. Thus, a sharp image obtained on a matte
plane will be sharp on the plane of negative material.

To obtain accurate sharpness of the image, the mirror must be

strictly at an angle 45 °. If this situation is violated, it is restored by
adjusting
one 54
adjustment until the plane of
the lens
will not be the same
Action mechanism
ball-mounted
the spring, which is in combination with the hinge, attracts

Figure: one 68. Winch device diagram for re-

mirrors

good for flat and matt surface one 0. Valve closure gear gear rotates the
cogwheel twenty .
This gear carries a plate one , which when starting to start 2 and pushes
it in the direction indicated on the page. The picture shows a tooth 2 for
the sake of clarity, while it is high above the plate one . In fact, they are
almost together on top of each other. Tooth 2 mounted on a spring flat
washer at the point one nine . This shayba moves from it to the top,
which makes it possible to ask for n its layer one .

Since the spring washer yba one nine connect with pulley lump one 8 ,
then the gear twenty , rotating this washer with its plate, simultaneously
transmits rotation and pulley one 8. Pulley, in rotation, pushing, pushing and
pulling one 2, which is on

one 55
 in the direction indicated
give the right on
and placed on the auxiliary rope
has three supports
the second on the small auxiliary pulley and the third on the mirror.
Factory gate pulley one 8 pulls the rope and thereby sets the mirror into
working position. In the working position, the mirror is held on the cutout
made in the retainer one ( fig. one 57). After the winch pulls the mirror
under the hook cutout, the spring washer one nine ( fig. one 68) opens with
a ledge one ( fig. one 69). This opening is good

Figure: one 69. Winch opening step

giving the spring washer, while scrolling, hits the end of the plate 3 ( fig.
one 68) to the ledge one
( fig. one 69), is folded back and thrown off the plate one
( fig. one 68), breaking the rope tension system.
So that the rope does not get confused, does not jump off the pulley
after disconnecting the system, it is held in a tensioned position by a spiral
spring one 6, which at one end is attached to the pulley at the point one 7, a
others are inserted into a fixed axle one 5.

When the shutter is released, the hook first of all releases the mirror,
which, with the help of a spring, goes to the matte plane, pulling the rope
in the direction indicated by arrow C, and, consequently, rotating the
handwheel in the opposite direction, bringing it to its original position.
Here is the handwheel, and with it the springs

one 56
ny washer are installed and held in a strictly specified position. (In one
direction the handwheel pulls the rope, and in the other - spring force.)
This position must be firmly known and always remembered when
disassembling and assembling the winch.

After the mirror has reached the initial position, the first shutter
continues to work. Going down, she turns the system of gears, including
the gear twenty, returning the plate one

to the starting position to grip the protrusion 2, this sets the initial
position of the system for the next cycle of work.

Sticking rope occurs most often from dirt and misalignment of the
auxiliary pulley 2 ( fig. one 69).
To eliminate this malfunction, the camera is disassembled, the rope is
removed from the pulley and the pulley rotation is checked for ease. If it
turns out that the pulley turns with difficulty, they find the place of
jamming and eliminate the malfunction by bending the bracket or a small
bar located at the circle of the handwheel. Bend back carefully and only
if necessary. In the event that the handwheel will stop even after this
correction when the rope moves, it is useful to lubricate the handwheel
axis a little. This must be done carefully, so that the grease does not get
into the groove of the pulley along which the rope moves.

The rope is damaged or worn out. In this case, his

replace with a new one. For this, a nylon lace is taken, necessarily of the
same thickness. The camera is disassembled so that there is free access
to the winch. First of all, it is necessary to remove the handwheel, on
which the spring is located and the rope is attached. To do this, remove
the end of the spring from the hole located in the upper part of the winch
axis. Then, with a screwdriver, through the window where the pillow is
attached, the winch axis is unscrewed. Before that, it is necessary to
remember the exact position of the winch when the gate is wound and
deflated. After turning the axle out, take out the entire winch from the
chamber. To connect the rope to the handwheel, unscrew the screw
halfway 4, which is on the pulley one 8 ( see fig. one 68).

The end of the rope should be cut around the screw and secured with the screw.
Then the rope is inserted into the slot 5 and placed in the groove of the handwheel.
Part of the rope from the screw to the

one 57
the pubis is greasy with glue " BF- 2 ". After installing the handwheel in
place, install the gear twenty. To do this, start the shutter and put the
gear so that its plate one ( rice, 1 68) was in the middle of the dropping
ledge one ( fig. one 69). The exact position must be remembered when
disassembling. Then, through the hole of the gear, the axle is inserted
into its threaded hole and tightened firmly with a screwdriver. The end of
the spring is installed in the same place and bent to the side. In order for
the spring to have tension, one turn of the handwheel is made in the
opposite direction of rotation when the shutter is wound. In this case, it is
necessary to lift the spring washer with the end of a thin needle so that
the ledge 2 not caught on the bracket that drops it.

Spring tension can be done in another way: the end of the spring
inserted into the axle hole is gripped with needle-nose pliers and pulled
out of the hole until 8- one 0 mm.

When tensioning in this way, it is necessary to control how much

stronger the pulley tension has become, since in some cases it may turn
out that this spring tension is excessive or insufficient. Such tension
should not be overused either. This is only applicable when a new spring
is installed that has a reserve of turns.

It is most convenient to fully tension the spring after the other end of
the cord is inserted into the eyelet of the mirror frame. To do this, take
the end of a rope with a length of 1 5-20 cm. The nylon cord is very fuzzy
and difficult to insert into the eyelet of the hole on the mirror. To facilitate
this work, the tip of the rope is heated over the flame of a match and the
end is quickly sharpened by twisting it between the fingers. This makes
the tip sharp and fits easily into the hole. The inserted rope is laid on an
auxiliary roller one 4

( fig. one 68) and slightly tighten by spinning the handwheel

one 8 to its original position.
Remember this position well before disassembling and removing the
winch. If the rope is released too much, then the plate 3 with a tooth 2 will
not reach it, and therefore will not be able to close. If you release the
rope less than necessary, then you get a lot

one 58
idle and zerk get on the
hook.
dimo install
he stood before disassembly. This position is achieved by pulling the
rope through the mirror eyelet, which should be in the closed position at
the matte plane of the lens.

As soon as the desired position of the pulley is established by

pulling the rope, on the rope near the lug

Figure: one 70. Installing the rope

mirrors are marked with ink. Then the mirror is removed, the rope is
pulled out and a knot is tied so that it coincides with the ink mark (Fig. 1 70).
After the knot is tightened, check the operation of the shutter and mirror.
If the installation turns out to be inaccurate, adjustments are made to
achieve complete consistency in the operation of the mechanisms. At
the end of the work and adjustment, the assembly is coated with glue " BF-
2 ".

Installing the mirror in working position. Photo camera " Zenith " different
from the apparatus " Zenit-S " only by setting the mirror to the working
position. If the camera " Zenit-S " installation of the mirror in the working
position is carried out using a rope and a winch installed in the lower
part of the chamber, then in the apparatus " Zenith " the mirror is installed
at

one 59
using the figured eccentric located in the upper part of the chamber,
near the speed setting.
Consider the device of this node. Figured lever 3
( fig. one 7 1) attached to the der

Figure: one 7 1. The main lever for setting the mirror in

the device " Zenith "( view from
side of the lens)

This screw divides the shaped eccentric into two working parts: on one
side, the annular part 3 ( fig. one 72),

Figure: one 72. The main lever for setting the mirror
in the apparatus " Zenith "( view from the opposite
side of the lens)

the envelope of the release button sleeve, and on the other - beak 2,
to to which the pusher is attached one, pressing on the side lever that
lowers the mirror until it is hooked.

The mirror is installed in the working position as follows: located

under the ring
one 60
part eccentric I'm turning
slip clutches most
picks up the stake screaming
fault lever on b that
presses on th
lever arm 2 ( fig.
lever in ne
position wasps
spring one. Not
work of this
are in jamming
levers, in damage
screws or returnable
springs. therefore at Figure: one 73. Offset screw
renovation mirror lever mechanisms
installation of a mirror in the working
position, you should first of all pay attention to the connection of the levers, to
the correct position of the screws that secure the entire gear system, and to
the operation of the spring.
If the screw thread
when tightening,
does not hold, screws are
required replace
new. New screws
made of the same material
from which
old ones were made
screws.
Adjustment
Figure: one 74. The leverage system is mirrors. Accurate
new mirrors installation mirrors
carried out at
using two screws - one and 2 ( fig. one 75). Before proceeding with the
adjustment, unscrew the screw 2 overhead block (fig. 1 57), then the
adjustment is made by raising or lowering the latch /, which fixes the
working position of the mirror. If the mirror needs to be raised, then first
unscrew the screw two or three turns 1, a then tighten the screw 2 ( fig.
one 75) until the mirror takes the exact position. If the mirror needs to be
lowered, they do

6 M.F. Yakovlev one 6 one

on the contrary, unscrew the screw by two or three turns 2 and adjust with the
screw one. Adjusting screws one and 2 it is not recommended to unscrew it
unnecessarily; for strength they are poured with glue. Adjusting and displacing
these screws
should produce
only because of extreme
necessity, for example
at replacing mirrors.
Front adjustment,
so that not spoil
screws, pillow, on
which situated
screws, slightly
warmed up the end
Figure: one 75. Position adjustment screws soldering iron. After
mirrors pillow Little
warms up screws
moistened with a solvent and only after the glue has softened, they begin
to adjust.

ADJUSTMENT and CLEANING THE LENS

Violated position rings lens by

attitude to focal plane. For
restoring the parallelism of the reference plane of the lens ring must be
accurately set using
depth gauge then or other deviation.
The detected deviation is eliminated by removing
or adding shims 1 / 4 circumference of the ring. The thickness of the shims
is determined by the depth gauge.
To insert or remove a spacer under the ring, unscrew the screw on the
side where the correction is required. This screw is removed from the
ring. The remaining screws should not be unscrewed at all; they are only
slightly released to loosen the ring. The part of the ring, where the screw
is unscrewed, is lifted and a gasket is placed under the ring on the
outside. After the gasket is under the ring, tighten all four screws. This is
done gradually, moving from one screw to another. After tightening the
screws, check that the plane is correct. This is done until they reach full
parallelism of the reference plane of the lens ring and the focal plane of
the camera.

one 62
 Adjustment of any additional
Not
remove the lens reference plane ring from the camera and achieve
sharpness of the installed lens using spacers. This can disrupt the
previously set focal length of the camera, and the main lens will not
work sharply.

Adjustment of the optional lens should be done as follows. The

depth gauge measures the distance from the support ring to the film
located in the focal
plane
cameras ( fig. one 76).
Measurement do by
center presser
shield. Having determined exactly
working distance of the camera,
carry over his on
adjusting collima-
torus. After this on
collimator established
adjustable adjustable
lens and its focal alignment is
checked.
by aiming at ∞.
If the collimator shows Fig. one 76. Measurement of working
focal divergence, camera cutting
define line segment
inconsistency and its direction, that is, the need to deepen or extend the
lens. After that, the block with the optical components is unscrewed from
the lens barrel and spacers are placed under its reference circle if the
lens needs to be removed to achieve sharpness. If measurements
showed

necessity approximations lens,

the gaskets are removed from under the support circumference of the
tube. After the necessary correction, insert the tube into the lens barrel
and screw it tightly with a threaded ring. When tightening the tube with a
ring, make sure that the dot on the diaphragm ring correctly indicates the
setting of the effective lens aperture. After making sure that the unit is
installed correctly, screw it in with a thin screw until the end of the tube
support screw.

6* one 63
 Disassembling the frame and cleaning the lens. Do not
disassemble the entire lens barrel system to clean the inside of the lens.
It is enough to unscrew the back component and wipe the inner surfaces
of the lenses. The lenses should be wiped with clean cotton wool, twisted
on a wooden stick. The end of the stick should not protrude from the
swab. Wipe with such a swab carefully, from the center of the lens to the
edges. From time to time, the tampon must be replaced with a new one.

If oil accidentally gets on the surface of the lenses, then the swab is
slightly moistened in ether and carefully removed the grease. After that,
the lenses are wiped dry with a fresh dry swab.

The frames are disassembled only when defects are found. For
example, the diaphragm is damaged, the lens is jammed when focusing,
the oil has thickened, etc.

When disassembling the lens, the first thing to do is remove the

block with the optical component. In the lower part of the frame there is a
clamping ring, on which there are two locking screws and two holes for
inserting a key, with which this ring is unscrewed. After removing the
block, unscrew the three screws at the top of the bezel drive ring. After
removing the drive ring, unscrew the locking screws on the hyperfocal
distance scale ring located in the lower part of the frame. After removing
this ring from the rim, set the worm stroke to the ∞ position so that the
screw located in the lower ring of the worm stops against the cutout. After
this setting of the worm gear, use a screwdriver of the appropriate size to
unscrew the screw located under the slot. Now, by unscrewing the upper
part of the worm from the lower support plane, divide the stroke into two
parts. At the same time, as always,
 APPENDIX

WORKPLACE AND TOOL

To repair cameras, you must have a comfortable workplace and a set of tools.

Naturally, the amateur photographer may not always have a complete set of tools.
However, he should know without which tools it is impossible to start repairing cameras.

When starting a repair, a photographer should be able to equip his workplace in

such a way as to make repairs with the least expenditure of effort and time, but with
sufficient skill.

Workplace

Table, on which the repair is carried out must be kept in order, be free from
unnecessary parts and materials at the moment, from rarely used tools and equipment.

The work surface of the table must be clean and level. Under no circumstances
should you drill parts on the workbench without a special backing. The heated soldering
iron should be held on a special fixture or stand.

Location tool. The required tool should be on the right side and positioned so that
you do not have to waste time looking for it. Paints, varnishes, adhesive solutions,
gasoline and solvents should be stored in tightly sealed containers with ground-in
stoppers and placed on the table on the left. It is necessary to strictly monitor that the
instrument is always in complete serviceability and cleanliness. Brushes and brushes
should be stored in plastic or wooden boxes with tight-fitting lids.

A set of screwdrivers, tweezers, punches, drills and other small tools should be
stored in separate boxes for each set and placed so that they are always in the same
places. Drill, soldering iron, hacksaw, saws should be located near the workplace.

Tool

Vise necessary for clamping workpieces. They must have an absolutely correct
clamping plane, without jamming or distortions. To protect the part from damage during
clamping, the vise must have additional jaws made of red copper or aluminum with a
thickness of at least 2 mm.

one 65
 Measuring tools
associated with great accuracy in
achieving good qualities
gears, springs, etc.
tool
( It is used for taking measurements from parts both inside and outside with an accuracy 0,
one mm), micrometer (used to measure accurate to 0.0 one mm). You cannot do without
a micrometer when you need to make a complex functioning spring from thin wire or new
critical parts: washers, gaskets made of thin sheet steel, brass, foil. In the manufacture of
such parts, the slightest deviation from the dimensions leads to a violation of the exact
operation of the mechanism.

Tweezers. When repairing cameras, especially when repairing central shutters, a

set of tweezers is required (Fig. 1). Tweezers
A used in almost all cases of minor repairs of central

Figure: one

ny valves; tweezers B used for inserting pins and making curly springs; tweezers IN used
for turning small parts; brass tweezers D serves for installation in holes of screws and
springs located in an electromagnetic field; tweezers D is needed for installation in the
sockets of tight springs and for other work.

Screwdrivers. It is absolutely essential to have a set of screwdrivers

( fig. 2). All screwdrivers must be well sharpened. When using one or another screwdriver, it
is necessary to check whether the working end of the screwdriver fits exactly into the slot
of the screw along its length and width. Do not allow the working end of the screwdriver to
be longer or shorter than the slot, - this leads to the fact that the screwdriver extending
beyond the slot begins to scratch the metal and thereby spoil the screw head. If the end of
the screwdriver is already a slot, then this is n p and - leads to damage to the slot itself.

Threading tool. For threading, screws are used on screws (Fig. 3, IN) or screw board

( fig. 3, B).
Taps are used to cut the threads in the screw holes (Fig. 3, L), made of high-grade
steel and hardened to a certain hardness.

one 66
Figure: 2

Figure: 3

Figure: 4

one 67
 Brushes and brushes. You need to have several brushes and brushes (Fig. 4).
Some are used to clean parts from dust and dirt in a dry state, others - for cleaning parts
not,
gasoline and other solutions. Brush hoi
cleaning, should not be applied there, g xli
from washing with gasoline or greased about in
separate box, protecting them from dust we-
in pure gasoline. Brushes which already-
under no circumstances hoi
cleaning.
Soldering iron. You must have e mi
lugs: straight, curved p per-
sawn end for soldering crayons
The electric soldering iron must be by-
how heavy and unwieldy the forces them
details. The electric soldering iron is always up to n and
tinned.
Files and Needles ( fig. 5) should be of different sizes and profiles: coarse (with a
large notch), personal (with a small notch) and velvet (with a very small notch). Files and
needle files according to their sizes and profiles are used depending on the surface to be
treated.

Working with a file or file requires skill and skill. Therefore, it is necessary to master
some of the rules in handling a file or file. When moving the file forward along

Figure: 5

the parts should be pressed with equal force on both ends of the file. If this condition is
not observed, the file gives a heaving and the workpiece has " overwhelmed " the edges.
When the file moves backwards, it should not be torn off from the workpiece being cut.
When filing some parts, on the surface of which scratches appear, it is necessary to
change the direction of the file, filing the part obliquely.

one 68
 Hammers. It is advisable to have three hammers: steel, copper and wood. Each
hammer should only be used for its intended purpose. You cannot use a copper or
wooden hammer where a steel hammer is required, and vice versa, because this leads to
damage to the tool and parts, and sometimes even entire parts of the mechanism.

The working surface of the hammers must be flat and smooth. Make sure that the
hammer is well attached to the handle.
Kerner made of tool steel. Its working end is particularly hard. Center punch point
sharpened at an angle 40-60 °. The center punch is used to make grooves on the parts to
be produced when drilling holes and marking.

Figure: 6

Thread gauge ( fig. 6) serves to define the thread pitch. To determine the thread
pitch, a plate is selected on the thread gauge, the profile of which must exactly match the
determined thread. Having picked up exactly the plate, they look at it for an indication of
the thread pitch.
Compass must be steel with well hardened ends. It serves both for drawing circles
on metal plates, and for transferring measured values from one object to another.

Jigsaw serves for sawing metal plates, cutting slots, sawing off screws and sawing
out some parts.

Clamps are required for fastening various parts that are processed during sawing,
marking and drilling. Clamps fasten the part to a workbench or to a board specially
designed for performing repairs on it.

Scrapers required for scraping various surfaces. Scrapers come in a variety of

shapes, made of good carbon steel, sharpened and hardened to the same degree as
drills.

Syringe It is used to flush out dirt from the shutter mechanisms, in addition, to
lubricate those places where it is difficult to bring the oil meter. For this, a special needle
is put on the conical tip of the syringe and grease is supplied through it by pressing the
plunger.

After use, the syringe is cleaned with purified gasoline. Keep the syringe and
needles absolutely clean.

one 69
 Air jet ( rubber bulb) is used to quickly dry parts after washing and especially to
remove dust particles from optical parts during cleaning and gluing. Do not use gasoline
or other solvents or water in the air jet. Any liquid inside the cone will inevitably lead to
contamination of the parts blown by the air jet.

Magnifier. A magnifying glass is used when working with very small parts and screws.
It is most convenient to use a magnifying glass, which is held with the help of the eye
muscles. A wire in the form of an incomplete hoop can be adapted to it.

Pliers - the most essential tool when performing mechanical work. They are used
for bending metal products from wire, for inserting cotter pins, fastening all joints, etc. In
addition to pliers, there are other similar tools: round-nose pliers, oval pliers, nippers and
side cutters.

Anvil serves for riveting, flattening and straightening of metal products. Under the
anvil, you can use a piece of rail or any metal plate of small size, but thick enough and
with a smooth surface.

Scissors should be large and small. Large scissors are used for cutting sheet
metal: brass, iron and aluminum. Small scissors are essential for cutting paper, linen and
curtain fabrics.

Alcohol lamp serves for soldering and heating parts. It is a wide low bottle with a
thick neck, in which a metal mandrel with a wick is threaded into it. The metal torch
mandrel can be lifted or removed to pour the alcohol. A cap is put on the neck of the spirit
lamp, which serves to protect the alcohol from evaporation and to extinguish the flame.

Blowpipe, or, as it is also called, fevka, is made of metal. It's long, centimeters 20-25,
tube going to the cone; is used for soldering without a soldering iron using a flame from
an alcohol lamp. The thick end is taken in the mouth, and the thin end is directed towards
the flame of the spirit lamp. The air, passing through the tube to the thin end, blows onto
the flame of the spirit lamp and thereby creates a fiery tongue with a high temperature.

Cam keys serve specifically for displacement of the cams when adjusting
rangefinders. These wrenches are made to the size and shape of the cam in aluminum
or red copper.

TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESSES

When repairing cameras, one must be fluent in the methods of disassembling and
assembling mechanisms. In addition, the repair of cameras involves a lot of mechanical
work. Therefore, anyone who wants to seriously engage in repair work should study well
all auxiliary work, starting with drilling and ending at least with anodizing.

Markup. For marking required: metal

ruler, compasses and scribe. Instead of a scribe, you can use a pencil. Let's say an
aluminum plate requires

one 70
make a round hole fifty mm. A recess is made in the center of the plate with a punch.
Then the compasses are spread so that between its points there is 25 mm, and one point
is inserted into a recess made by a center punch, while the other is used to scratch a
circle on the metal. Then, reducing the spread of the compass by 2 mm, the second is
inscribed in the first circle. On the line of the second circle, a recess is made with a
punch, a recess is inserted into the recess 3- mm drill and drill a through hole. A jigsaw file
is inserted into the hole for metal and sawing is performed exactly along the marked
circle.

When two planes are connected, the markings are made as follows: after
determining the number of rivets or screws that will connect the planes, markings are
made by placing a ruler on the upper plane. Using a ruler, a scribe draws a line, which is
divided into equal segments according to the number of rivets or screws. At the
designated points, recesses are made with a punch, and the markings are ready.

The marking of the lower plane is made on the upper one after it has been drilled.
To do this, the upper part or plane is installed on the lower one. The correctness and
accuracy of the installation is achieved with the help of marks made in advance with a
scribe, control marks. Holding the planes so that they do not move, and pressing them
against each other with a scribe, they mark the holes along the holes of the upper part. In
this case, it is necessary to ensure that the circles outlined by the scribe are marked in
the lower circles. Then they take a center punch and make grooves with it exactly in the
center of the marked circles. When performing such operations, the center punch should
always be kept strictly vertical, since when the center punch is tilted to one side or the
other, its point shifts and the mark goes to the side.

The blow with a hammer on the center punch should not be strong, since a strong
blow can bend or split the part, especially if it is plastic.

Drilling requires great care and attention. Improper installation of the drill,
misalignment or jerking will inevitably lead to damage to the part. Thin drills break easily
when drilling. This happens most often with long drills. Therefore, when drilling a critical
part with a good polished or painted surface, the drill should be shortened by breaking off
its tail by two-thirds of the shank. The working part of the drill must be well sharpened at
an angle of 1 20 °. The spiral flute used to evacuate chips during drilling should be
cleaned and oiled frequently.

The part, aluminum panel or brass product to be drilled must be carefully marked
with a ruler. Then make a crosshair in the places of drilling. The crosshairs need to be
recessed using a well-sharpened center punch.

There are times when the head breaks off when unscrewing the screw. To remove
the screw shank, drilling has to be done again. If it is possible to file a part of the fracture,
then take a file and smoothly file down the surface of the screw. Then, strictly in the
center of the screw, a recess is made with a center punch, the point of the drill is placed
on the recess and drilling is performed. The drill in such cases should be taken slightly
smaller than the screw diameter, that is, it

one 7 one
must go through a tapped hole of the same size as the broken screw.

During drilling, the drill must be kept strictly vertical and check how the metal is cut
with the drill. When drilling with a very thin drill, rest your hand on the table and press the
drill only with your hand. Press lightly and rotate the drill quickly and evenly.

Sometimes it happens that there is no drill of the appropriate size. Then the
required drill must be made by yourself. For this, a steel wire is taken, the diameter of
which should be significantly less than the diameter of the required drill. The end of the
wire is heated red and flattened on an anvil, then filed so that the working part of the drill
corresponds to the required diameter, and the cutting edges are sharp and cut at an
angle of 11 5- one 20 °. After that, the drill is treated with a fine emery cloth and heated to
a temperature 220-225 °, that is, until the steel takes on a light straw color. Then the drill
is quenched by dipping it into heated oil.

The final, fine sharpening of the drill is done on the grindstone. Sharpening should
be done so as not to violate the symmetry of the corners of the working surface. The
cutting edges of the drill should remain flat and even, without any depressions, kinks or
dents, of the same length on both sides. When sharpening, make sure that the
non-working side of the cutting parts of the drill is slightly below the cutting edge.

During drilling, a lubricant is used (kerosene diluted in half with castor oil, or bone
oil with turpentine in equal proportions). If it becomes necessary to drill a part that cannot
be removed from the mechanism block, it is drilled in place, having well strengthened the
mechanism itself. And in order not to clog it with chips, the place of drilling is greased
with glue " BF- 2 ".

Most often you have to drill holes for threads. For this purpose, the drill is selected
depending on the screw thread diameter. This is determined practically or by table. 1
(see below " Threading ").

When assembling cameras, sometimes it is necessary to screw the screw in a

recessed position, that is, so that the screw head is flush with the surface of the part. To
do this, it is necessary to countersink the beginning of the hole, make it at such an angle
as is available on the screw head. In such cases, the drill is sharpened at an angle equal
to that of the screw head (usually 90 °).

Thread cutting. When repairing cameras, it is often necessary to cut threads in

steel, brass, aluminum, copper and plastic. Both right-hand and left-hand threads are
used.
Before cutting a thread on a screw, it is necessary to determine the accuracy of
the coincidence of the cutting tool with the thread for which the screw is made. The blank
for the screw is made according to the diameter of the tap, which was used for cutting
into the part. In no case should the screw blank be made at least slightly larger than the
specified diameter, otherwise, during cutting, the turns may break off or the screw shaft
itself may break. In screw-cutting boards, there are always two rows of thread-cutting
holes (Fig. 3, B). The numbered row of holes serves for a rough initial cut, and the
adjacent row - for finishing penetration.

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 To reduce the friction of the tool cutting the thread and to obtain a good and smooth
thread, cutting should be performed not immediately, but gradually, rotating the
screw-cutting board one turn clockwise (if the thread is right-hand) and then turning half a
turn back.

At the beginning of cutting the screw, its tip is cut a little on a cone, then a
screw-cutting board is placed on it and, pressing downwards, they begin to carefully cut
the thread. As soon as the die grips the rod and starts cutting into the screw, -

make a lubricant.
Tapping holes is no less difficult. For this purpose, take a set of taps and a drill of
the corresponding diameter. The drill diameter should be slightly smaller than the tap
diameter. In practice, it is easy to establish from table. 1 or by multiplying the thread size
by 0.8 ( tap 3 mm X x 0.8 = 2.4 mm).

Table 1
Drill bit sizes

Thread diameter in
mm. ... ... ...
one one, 2 one, 4 one, 7 2 2,3 2.6. 3

Drill diameter in
mm. ... ... ...
0.75 0.95 1.1 one, 3 one, 6 one, nine 2, one 2.5

Having picked up the drill, a hole is drilled in the part and the necessary thread is
carefully cut. Here by no means - the same as in the previous moment - do not use force,
as this can lead to breakage of the tap, which will be very difficult to extract from the hole.

Vacation. To make any lever of a mechanism or a spring from steel, it must be

made easily workable, soft. In such cases, the steel is released. This is done very simply.
The tempered steel is heated to a temperature

225-250 ° C, and then, gradually reducing the heating, cooled in air. After such an
operation, it becomes soft and easy to handle.

To make brass soft, do the opposite. The brass is heated to about the same
temperature and immediately dipped in water. This makes the elastic barred brass soft.

Straightening and procurement of metal products. Sometimes you have to make

your own diaphragm blades, shutters, shutter levers, springs, etc. Such parts are usually
made of steel, brass, aluminum and duralumin. But it is not always possible to find a flat
metal plate for the manufacture of the required part, and then you have to deal with the
metal straightening.

Since when repairing cameras one has to deal with the manufacture of small-sized
parts, straightening must be done with small hammers made of steel, copper or wood,
depending on the strength of the metal. For straightening any metal

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material, the hammers should have a well-ground surface of the punches, without
corners and cavities. When straightening the curved surface of a small sheet of steel or
brass, the sheet is placed on a smooth plate and, holding it with your hand, blows are
struck in convex places, turning the sheet from one side to the other as necessary.

The impact force should be adjusted depending on the thickness of the metal and
on the amount of curvature. The blows are distributed over the sheet depending on the
place of curvature. Editing should start at the edges and gradually spiral into the middle.

As you approach the bulge, the blows get weaker and weaker. When performing
this operation, it is necessary to ensure that the bulge decreases evenly and that no
hammer marks remain on the metal. If there are several bulges on the sheet, the blows
of the hammer must be distributed so that all the irregularities are merged into one bulge,
followed by its leveling.

Steel and brass must be loosened before dressing. When straightening rods, rods
or wire, the workpiece is taken a little longer than the required size, one end is clamped
in a hand vice, then the rod is placed on the plate and all irregularities are tapped out with
a hammer. The evenness of the rods is checked by eye or along the plane of the plate,
and longer - along the ruler.

Riveting carried out using all kinds of rivets. The rivets can be long or very short,
with wide heads and with hollow heads. Used rivets are steel, copper, aluminum.

When riveting, they are used for riveting - support, hammer and crimping for rivet
heads.
When riveting two parts, they are marked out, then holes are drilled into them. A
rivet is inserted into the drilled hole, while the protruding end of the rivet rod to form the
closing head should not exceed its diameter by more than one and a half times. And for a
flush head, its length should be equal to the diameter of the rivet.

Very often you have to make rivets yourself, depending on the parts to be joined. In
such cases, take a piece of wire (it is desirable that its diameter corresponds to the
diameter of the head), clamp it in a hand vise so that the end protruding from the vise is
equal to the length of the rivet being produced. Putting the end into a recess made on a
small piece of wood, attached with a clamp to the workbench, filing is performed. When
filing, the vice is twisted all the time, maintaining a parallel position. The rivet is sawed off
until it matches the diameter of the hole intended for riveting the parts. The rivet must be
sawed off so that it fits perfectly into the hole. Having finished filing, they release the
clamping vise, retract the rod a little and again, holding the vice, saw off the rivet with the
calculation,

The head is cut into the desired shape with a personal file and the finished rivet is
inserted into the hole. The end of the rivet protruding from the other side is sawed off so
that it is flat and does not exceed the required length in length. Then set the head on a
stove or anvil and gently spit it out with a small hammer.

one 74
burn the head. After that, with a file, and then sandpaper the place of the rivet.

Soldering. The mechanisms of cameras consist of separate units, interconnected

by gears, levers and springs, mainly made of brass and steel. Therefore, when starting
to repair the mechanism, you need to know that when soldering parts, in no case should
acid fluxes be used. Moreover, it must be remembered that during soldering, not only
should you not use soldering acid, but also solder any parts with acid around the
mechanisms of cameras, since during soldering, vapors and tiny splashes of acid spread
in all directions, which can get on the mechanism of the camera; corroding metal can
cause corrosion. Soldering parts with acid is permissible only in exceptional cases and
away from cameras. When brazing, you should use an ointment composed of identical
parts of rosin, stearin and lard or rosin,

The connection of parts by soldering is done in different ways. Some parts are simply
soldered over the fire of an alcohol lamp. Other adhesions are made using an alcohol lamp
and a soldering tube. The most common type of adhesion - this is soldering with a soldering
iron.
Soldering on the wire is done in the following way: two parts to be soldered are well
cleaned at the soldering points with a file or scraper, lubricated with flux (soldering
grease) and, if possible, tied with a wire. The place to be welded is introduced into the
flame of the spirit lamp. The soldering should be carried out carefully, heating as needed
and in no case overheating. After soldering, the wire is removed and the place of
soldering is neatly and well cleaned.

P a n and e p a l n and k about m is the most convenient. An electric soldering iron

provides a heating temperature sufficient for soft soldering. Soldering is carried out as
follows: the place of soldering is well cleaned with a file or scraper. The cleaned parts
are lubricated with flux and connected so that they cannot be moved during soldering,
then they take a heated soldering iron, tin it with ammonia (better than lump). A drop of
solder is taken onto a tinned soldering iron and soldered.

The solder for soldering parts with a soldering iron is prepared as follows: two parts
of lead and one part of tin are taken, all of this is cut into small pieces and placed in a
metal spoon or box made of iron. The prepared mixture is heated until melted and held
over the fire until a soft crust forms over the molten mixture. - lead ash. It is not
recommended to heat such a mixture too much, since at high temperatures the tin can
burn out. During the initial melting, the mixture must be stirred, adding a little stearin.
The molten metal is poured onto a stone slab or into a bent iron groove.

For soldering aluminum parts, solder is prepared from

55% tin, 25% zinc and twenty% cadmium. When soldering aluminum parts with this
solder, it is necessary to use a flux consisting of three parts of wood oil, two parts of
rosin and one part of zinc chloride. The components of this flux are taken by weight.

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 Grinding and polishing of parts. Most of the details
photographic mechanisms have a well-polished surface, and some are not only polished,
but also perfectly polished. This is done not only for beauty, but also in order to protect
the mechanism from corrosion and reduce friction between parts.

Grinding of any part is done only after it is completely free from dirt. Polishing is
done after the part has been well ground. To perform these operations, personal and
velvet files, fine-grained stones, pumice stones, sandpaper, polishing paste, crocus and
chromium oxide are used.

Polishing is carried out manually or in machines, and if there are none, round
small-sized parts can be polished in a drill attached to the table with a clamp.

The polishing process consists in prolonged rubbing of the polishing tool against
the polished part. This is done in the following way: if the part is round, it is clamped into
the chuck of a machine or drill and rotated. Then they take a piece of felt or suede,
grease it with polishing ointment and cover the rotating part and polish it. For final
polishing, a piece of suede is rubbed with chrome oxide and the detail is brought to a
mirror shine.

Flat parts are fixed on a flat wooden support with resin or glued with shellac glue,
preheating the part over a fire. When the part has cooled down, start polishing. For this, it
is convenient to use wooden even planks of oak, birch or palm. Leather suede or felt is
attached to the plates. A layer of polishing mastic is applied to the polishing pads
prepared in this way and polishing is performed by moving the polishing pad to one side
or the other.

Polishing is considered complete only when the surface of the workpiece to be

ground is completely smooth, without any signs of roughness.

Some information about metal. Most of the details of photographic mechanisms

are made of different types of steel. Some parts that have become unusable, for
whatever reason, cannot always be replaced with new ones, and therefore they have to
be made by yourself. To do this, you need to know what metal the part is made of and
with what metal this material can be replaced.

There are many varieties of steel. Carbon steel is composed of an alloy of iron and
carbon. A certain amount of carbon in steel makes it hard, hardenable, workable and
resistant to wear.

Special so-called alloy steel consists of different mixtures in different combinations

and proportions. It contains carbon, nickel, vanadium, chromium and the like.

In some cases, the structure and properties of steel can be judged by the fracture.
For this, the steel is hardened and broken. In a magnifying glass with a high
magnification, one can see the structure of the crystal grains of the given steel at the
fracture. Homogeneous fine crystalline grains of a dark shade are characteristic of hard
carbon steel. The presence of large grains of a light shade is characteristic of mild steel.

one 76
 Some experts determine the quality of steel for a spark. They take a piece of steel
under test and place it on a rapidly rotating grinding wheel. Such contact causes an
abundant stream of sparks, which allow judging the quality of steel. Steel with a lot of
carbon gives a bright white sparkle. The steel used to make the tools gives off a
yellowish, less bright spark. Steel prepared for special purposes gives off a red sparkle.
And finally, steel with a small amount of carbon gives a dull spark. This definition of steel
quality is certainly not ideal. It only gives us an approximate idea of the grades of steel,
but it may well satisfy in the manufacture of parts or tools.

It must be remembered that steel subjected to prolonged heating at high

temperatures loses its valuable properties -
becomes fragile and completely unsuitable for the manufacture of parts for
photomechanisms.
However, overheated steel can be recovered to some extent by stress relief. To do
this, the desired piece of steel is heated slightly above the tempering temperature,
gradually taken out of the fire and cooling in air is continued.

For hardening and to determine the heating temperature, one should be guided by
the table below. 2, which gives rough definitions of color formation that changes during
heating at different temperatures.

Table 2
Determination of the heating temperature of steel by color

Temperature
Steel color in ° FROM

Dark cherry 600

Cherry 7 one 0

Light cherry 760

Yellow 920
Light yellow one 050

Matt white eleven fifty

Brass. Gears, drums, flywheels and other auxiliary parts and assemblies of camera
mechanisms are made of brass. Brass is an alloy composed mainly of copper and zinc.
The quality and grade of brass also depend on the presence of various additives in it:
bismuth, antimony, phosphorus, tin, iron.

Certain types of brass have good corrosion resistance, are easy to process and
maintain a clean, smooth surface. In addition, brass is well cut, milled, and easy to
solder. When making parts from brass, it is necessary to determine its hardness and
elasticity. Solid brass is difficult to bend and springy. Hard brass can be made soft.

one 77
If steel becomes hard when heated and rapidly cooled, then brass, on the contrary,
becomes soft and ductile when heated and rapidly cooled. Therefore, to make the brass
as soft as possible, it is heated to a dark red color and quickly immersed in water. If the
need arises to make the brass hard, it is subjected to pacing, that is, it is placed on an
iron plate and tapped across the entire plane with even blows of a hammer.

Large pieces of brass are rolled by rolling between two rollers. The brass after
such a swinging has a flat surface.

Duralyum is used for the manufacture of camera bodies, internal frames, bases for
fastening mechanisms, some rollers and flywheels. Lens frames are also made of
duralumin. Duralumin is valuable because it is much lighter than all other metals used in
the manufacture of cameras. In addition, it can be processed very well on a turning and
milling machine, it is easy to file, drill, and can be easily cut with a jigsaw file. Duralumin
is very convenient for making the thinnest spacers out of it, which are necessary when
aligning lenses to camera bodies. Duralumin is an alloy of aluminum with other elements.
Aluminum melts at a temperature 660 °.

The strength of duralumin depends on the combination of additives in the alloy and on the
degree of its hardening.
Chemical milling consists in applying on the metal various recesses, recesses,
grooves and holes, which are abundant in curtain and central shutters.

As a rule, the body and frame are made of aluminum alloys, which allows
chemical holes and indentations to be made in them.

The part prepared for this purpose is covered with a layer of rubber glue with the
addition of mineral dyes. After the glue has dried, a corresponding contour is applied
with a sharpened scribe using a previously prepared template, exposing the metal.

After that, the part is immersed in a saturated solution of caustic soda, where the
metal exposed along the contour begins to dissolve,
Remember that this milling is very slow. When heating the solution to 60-80 ° per twenty
min can dissolve metal only 1 mm.

After the part has undergone chemical milling, it is carefully removed from the
solution, washed well in water, the rubber coating is removed from it, and finally finished
with fine sandpaper. For chemical milling of other metals, the composition of the pickling
solutions is given in table. 3.

Chemical milling can be used to reduce the thickness of any wall, increase the
diameter of the holes, or reduce the rods, bolts and pins.

Electroplating of parts - this drawing on

metals of the protective film made of copper, nickel, chromium, silver and gold, which
give the parts special resistance against corrosion and improve their appearance.

The process of electroplating is as follows. An electrolyte solution through which a

direct current is passed

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 Table 3
Pickling solutions for chemical milling

Metal name Pickling solution

Copper 70% - an aqueous solution of ferric chloride with the

addition of free hydrochloric acid to 0.30-0.35%

Zinc 8- one 2% - alcoholic hydrochloric acid solution

Aluminum and duralumin 1 0 - one 5%- caustic soda solution Brass and bronze

fifty%- nitric acid solution

saturated with molecules that are split into electrically charged ions. Positively charged
ions under the action of a constant electric current are directed to the negative pole - cathode,
and negatively charged ions move to the positive - anode. As a rule, the parts to be
coated always serve as the cathode, and the metals that cover the parts serve as the
anode. The anode and cathode are immersed in an electrolyte solution, consisting of
metal salts, which cover the parts. Then, a constant electric current is supplied to the
anode and cathode with a voltage 6— one 2 in. A positive pole is connected to the anode,
and - negative.

Every part that one wishes to undergo galvanic treatment must be well cleaned of
contamination, degreased and rinsed. Degrease parts in acetone, gasoline, ether. After
degreasing, the parts are washed in warm water and soap with a clean brush or cloth.
Slight corrosion or oxidation during 5- one 0 min removed with a weak solution of
hydrochloric acid, taking care not to damage the part.

Galvanic deposition of metals on the parts of mechanisms should be carried out

with a certain ratio between the concentration of electrolyte (see table. 4), its
temperature and current density. Here you should know that the current density is the
ratio of the current strength to the coated surface of the cathode.

During the electrolytic process, under no circumstances should the current density
be increased arbitrarily. - this can result in uneven coating and loosening of the applied
metal. To speed up the process, it is best to warm up the electrolyte. The high
temperature of the electrolyte makes it possible to perform galvanic build-up of metals at
higher current densities.

Any galvanic treatment of parts must be carried out, as a rule, in a bath made of a
material that does not conduct electric current. Therefore, it is best to take a porcelain,
faience or glass vessel with a capacity of no more than 2 l. A glass or glass is placed on
top of the bath

one 79
plastic rod with hooks for suspending the cathode and anode. The bath is filled with
electrolyte and the parts are processed.
M e n e. Parts are plated with copper before nickel and chrome plating. Copper
plating protects parts from corrosion and increases the volume and diameter of parts.

For galvanic copper plating, alkaline and acidic solutions are used (tab. 4).

Tables a 4
Alkaline and acid solutions for galvanic copper plating

Temperature in Extending by
The composition of the solution in g / l metal
degrees'

Sulphate copper 275

Sulfuric acid 50-60
Cyanide copper 30-40

Sodium carbonate 40-60

Cyanide copper 25-45
Sodium cyanide 40-60
Sodium carbonate 45 - 75

Before electroplating
from pollution, washed
the following composition:

Caustic soda ................................................ ..... Potash twenty g \ l

............................................ .................. Sodium phosphate 40 g / l
.............................. ........one 2 g / l

Degreasing in such a solution should proceed at least

25 min. Then the part is well washed in hot water and immersed in a bath with prepared
electrolyte (Fig. 7), So that the electrolyte is not quickly depleted, a copper plate is
suspended on the anode. Then the copper will pass into the solution, constantly
enriching its concentration and settling on the copper part.

Figure: 7

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 The part immersed in the solution is supported in the electrolyte on a pre-prepared
plastic or glass bar with hooks or clamps. The parts must be suspended and fastened
carefully, without touching the copper part with your fingers. After immersion of the part
in the solution, it is necessary to supply an electric current to the anode and cathode and
to perform copper plating during the set time until the required increase in volume. After
the part has undergone galvanic treatment, it is thoroughly rinsed first with cold and then
hot water and dried.

H r about m and p about in and e. In cameras, even the smallest parts are often
chrome plated.
Chromium plating of parts differs from copper plating in that chromium is deposited on
the parts not from a solution of chromium salts, but from a solution of chromic acid, and a
lead plate insoluble in the electrolyte serves as the anode.

The chrome plating process is very complicated, therefore, before proceeding with
the final finishing of parts with chrome plating, several trials should be made.

To obtain good chromium plating results, an electrolyte is prepared in the following

composition.
Water ................................................. ................. one 000 ml
Chromic anhydride ........................................ 250 r
Sulfuric acid................................................ ... 3 ml

Before chrome plating, as mentioned above, the part is cleaned, degreased and
then subjected to electrochemical cleaning in a bath with an alkaline solution:

Water................................................. .................. one 000 ml

Caustic soda ................................................. twenty r
Soda................................................. .................. twenty r
Dextrin................................................. .......... 1g

After cleaning the part with an alkaline solution, it is washed and, to obtain the best
results of applying chromium, it is subjected to pickling by immersing the part in a
chrome bath as an anode. After pickling, the part is washed again, immersed in a bath
and chrome plated. To apply chrome in an even layer on the part, the lead plate is
shaped, if possible, into the chrome-plated part. Chromium plating is performed at
voltage 6— one 2 in heated up to 50-60 °.

Production of photographic mirrors. Sometimes they come to non-

suitability translucent mirrors in rangefinders, surface mirrors, mirror prisms. There are
many methods and recipes for making mirrors. Let us analyze the most simplified and
accessible method of metal deposition on a glass surface, known as aluminizing. This
method of making mirrors produces a very durable and impeccably mirrored surface on
the glass, but it is somewhat difficult because it requires a compressor and high voltage
current.

For the manufacture of a vacuum apparatus, thick glass with a size 25x25 cm and
a glass cover with thickened edges diameter twenty cm. The glass cover is first ground
well, and then it is ground to the glass with its base. Then in

one 8 one
drilled through the glass
in the center, second, - sucks
drilled, retreating
drilled opposite
7 cm, and, finally, the fifth about
the cap for the rod, on the ka. All
posts are inserted with sealing
grease for
paradise is from the central hole at a distance 5 cm, an object metal stage is attached.
This entire system is covered with a glass cover (Fig. 8) and is installed on a wooden

Figure: 8

stand. A tube with a tapered tip is fitted to the glass from the bottom into the central hole,
which is attached to the compressor with the other end. Now, if high voltage is applied to
posts A and B ( 2000 c), the installation can be considered complete (care must be taken
when installing and turning on the high voltage current).

Let us analyze how such an installation can be used to correct a camera mirror with a
damaged layer of the mirror surface. It should be known that a photographic mirror
differs significantly from ordinary mirrors in that its amalgam is not under the glass, as in
ordinary mirrors, but lies on the surface of the glass itself. If for some reason this
amalgam has peeled off, darkened or become dirty, then such a mirror can be corrected
only by applying a new layer of metal film. To do this, take a faulty mirror, clean off the
remnants of a metal film, lightly polish it with chromium oxide, then wash and degrease it
with solvents. A glass plate prepared in this way is placed on an object

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table Zh (Fig. 8). To the racks E and 3 tungsten coil attached
D, on which thin sheets of aluminum foil are hung. Over the foil in the distance 2-3 cm there
is a metal plate D for high voltage discharge. This whole system is covered with a cap IN. Outside,
the edge of the junction of the cap with the glass is coated with a compacted grease.
From below, the tapered end of the tube I is inserted into the central hole, lightly
lubricated with sealing grease. Then the tap opens M,

the pump turns on and air is pumped out from under the hood. Without stopping
pumping, they include a high voltage current through the ends of the racks A and B. As a
result, between the plate D and table G, an electric discharge occurs, lasting 25-35 min in
a rarefied space. It should be taken into account that such a discharge phenomenon is
not yet an action for coating glass and is mainly used for preparing surfaces for
aluminizing.

After such preparation, that is, after 25-35 min, for a few seconds, a high voltage
current is applied to the contacts of the racks £ and 3 through the wires TO and L. In this
case, the current passes through the tungsten filament and incandes it white. As a result,
the leaves of aluminum foil suspended on a spiral instantly melt in a rarefied space,
settling on the surrounding objects, including a glass plate on the stage, forming the
thinnest mirror surface. The mirrors made by this method are particularly durable and
resistant to atmospheric agents. Such mirrors should not be wiped with coarse cotton
wool and cleaned with a stiff brush in order to avoid scratches and tearing of the thinnest
aluminum film. Such mirrors are wiped with soft sterile cotton wool or a gentle kolinsky
brush. For greater durability, the mirrors are sometimes covered with a thin layer of
transparent varnish.

Translucent mirrors are made in the same way. Their translucency depends on the
film thickness. The thinner the applied film layer, the more transparent the mirror. The
required film thickness can be obtained by varying the distance between the mirror and
the tungsten coil, as well as by vacuum vacuum.

Control over the process of applying a film to the glass surface is carried out by
simple observation and is determined by the color of the applied film. It is best to
determine the thickness of the translucency in a practical way. To do this, make two or
three samples, record the test indicators and save them for practical work.

An easier way to coat mirrors is to chemically apply a film to the glass surface, but
it does not produce a perfect mirror finish.

Chemical coating of the mirror is made as follows: the glass surface is washed well
and degreased in a solvent. The prepared part is immersed in a bath or plate filled with a
previously prepared solution. If you need to restore a small mirror for a rangefinder, then
after preparation it is glued with wax to a glass rod and immersed in a glass with a
solution. The stick with the mirror must be moved in the solution for 8- one 0 min. Moreover,
part

silver contained in the solution will settle on the prepared clean glass surface, forming a
mirror film.

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 After the specified time has elapsed, the old solution is drained and a fresh solution is
poured up to half the glass. This is done until the mirror surface of the desired
transparency is obtained. For the convenience of observing the progress of the formation
of the mirror film, the stick should be glued not in the center of the glass, but closer to the
edge, so that the fastening does not occupy more than half of the glass.

For chemical coating of mirrors, there are many different formulations of solutions
suitable for making small mirrors. Below we give two recipes that should be tested in
advance.

Receptor No. 1. 5 g of silver nitrate is dissolved in 80 ml

distilled water and add a few drops of ammonia with a pipette until the formed precipitate
dissolves. Then more is added to the solution 250 ml distilled water. The prepared
solution is immediately poured into the prepared 1 2 ml 40% - formalin. The entire solution
is immediately stirred quickly and poured into a mirrored dish.

This solution should be used immediately, without delay, as it quickly decomposes

from the action of air and light.
R e c e p t No. 2. A. 1 00 r silver nitrate is dissolved in
500 ml distilled water and add 60 r 30-35% - natural alcohol.

B. 8 g of tartaric acid is dissolved in 40 ml distilled water.

To apply a mirror surface, prepared glasses are placed on the bottom of a cuvette or
saucer, and a solution is taken And with in such a way that it would be enough to fill the
glass surface on 8- one 0 mm
above the surface to be coated. Then a few drops of the solution are added to the
solution. B. All this is mixed and poured onto the glass surface. In 1 5-20 min the liquid is
drained and the slides are washed with warm distilled water. Then take the same amount
of solution again A and add a solution to it B twice as much as in the first operation. The
prepared solution is immediately poured into the mirrors and, shaking them, keep them in
the solution until 25-30 min. After draining the liquid, the mirrors are thoroughly washed
and dried.

All these operations must be performed carefully and carefully, not forgetting that the
solutions are poisonous and harmful to the skin.
Drilling of glass is carried out in the usual way with diamond or victorious drills.

Victory drills are easier to obtain than diamond drills. However, a diamond drill is
not difficult to make on your own. For this, a red copper wire is taken and the first drill is
made from it in the same way as mentioned above. For a diamond drill only, the cutting
part becomes much thicker. Cross notches are made on the cutting part with a sharp
tool. Notches are smeared with glue " BF- 2 ", filled with diamond chips, dried and coined
from the sides.

For drilling, a small scratch is made on the glass, the tip of a victorious or diamond
drill is inserted into it and drilling is performed using turpentine for cooling and lubrication.

On the passage of the drill, when the hole is almost drilled, drilling is performed
carefully (more often the drill is taken out, removed

one 84
slag and apply new lubricant). In order not to damage the glass, before drilling it must be
placed on another, unnecessary glass.
If there is no auxiliary glass at hand, then drilling must be done from the back side.
In this case, the center of drilling must be found very accurately.

Bonding lenses. Photographic lenses can consist of a single lens or a large

number of lenses of different spherical surfaces.

Bonding of two or more lens surfaces is done to obtain a good quality lens or to join
prisms and optical planes for special purposes.

Any bonding of optical parts is carried out with two adhesives: balsam or balsam.

Balzam is a transparent solid substance. In large pieces, it has a slightly yellowish

color. A thin layer of balm is completely colorless. When heated, the balm softens and
turns into a viscous sticky liquid.

Optical lenses are glued as follows: first, the lenses are gently washed in warm
water and wiped off with a clean cloth or chintz cloth. Then the lenses are wiped with the
same napkin slightly moistened with alcohol. After that, they take a columnar or squirrel
brush washed in air and brush off the settled dust from the gluing surfaces. When the
lenses are free of dust, they are folded together and viewed. After making sure that there
are no dust particles between the adhesive surfaces of the lenses, the lenses are placed
on the hot plate with the negative lens down. To do this, place a smooth metal plate on
the hotplate, and a clean sheet of tissue paper on the plate. The lenses to be glued are
placed on tissue paper.

The lenses must be heated to a temperature of 1 thirty- one 40 °. For gluing, a solid
piece of balm is melted. The positive lens is removed from the negative lens using any
device or tweezers. This is done with the left hand, with the right hand apply a drop of
balm to the negative lens using a clean glass rod. Then the positive lens is placed on the
negative one and transferred to a thick cloth napkin. A clean, tall cork is immediately
taken and pressed against the positive lens in a circular motion. This helps to squeeze
out excess balm and air bubbles.

Balzam and n. Bonding with balsam is done somewhat differently. Since balsam is
a sticky liquid, it does not need to be heated, and the lenses must be glued at room
temperature. The bonded lenses must be dried for 30-40 hour.

Glass-to-metal bonding. When attaching optical de-

hoists have to take into account the following considerations. Optical glass is very fragile,
so it must be protected from impacts and strains, produced without specific calculations.
Uneven pressure on lenses, especially on thin ones, deforms them and creates internal
tension in the glass itself. Slight lens tension in lens mounts creates general lens
deformation and lowers image quality. Pulling on the lens can crack or peel apart. This is
necessary

one 85
Consideration should be given when assembling the lens components, and fixing the
optical parts with due care, taking care that the pressure on the optical part is even and
as little as possible. It should be borne in mind that the fixed part of the optical glass
must sit very tightly and motionless in its frame.

Photographic lenses are mounted in metal frames by rolling and pressing with
clamping rings. Prisms, mirrors, rectangular lenses are attached using folds, clamping
bars, squares, springs and pads.

Varnishes and solvents. When repairing cameras, you cannot do without

varnishes of different colors. Acetone, amyl acetate and dichloroethane should always be
kept in stock. These solvents are necessary for the manufacture of varnishes, for
removing paint from the surfaces of cameras, for diluting varnishes during their
thickening from long-term storage, for washing and degreasing.

Varnishes are needed to remove scratches, abrasions and scuffs that have appeared during the
repair, to paint over the individual parts of the apparatus that have been worn out and faded from time
to time.
Varnishes are usually sold under the names nitroenamel, nitrolac, tsaponlac.
However, it is useful to be able to compose the necessary varnishes yourself, used
without prior priming. For the preparation of such varnishes, three recipes can be
recommended:

No. 1

Cellulose ...................................... 1 00 parts by weight Amyl acetate

.................................. one fifty " "
Amyl alcohol ............................. 200 " "
Nigrosine ................. ....................... fifty " "

No. 2 ( matte)
Celluloid ...................................... one 5 parts by weight
Acetone ............................................ one 00 " "
Amyl acetate ..................................... one 00 " "
Vinegar essence. .................... Lamp soot fifty " "
............................ 5 " "

No. 3

Celluloid. ... .............................. Acetone twenty parts by weight

................... .......................... one 00 " "
Dichloroethane ..................................... fifty " "
Nigrosine. ... …. ......................... one 0 " "
Rosin ........................................ 3 " "

Black varnish prepared according to recipe no. 3, good because it easily changes
the glossy surface to matte or velvety, if you add to it as needed lamp soot, talc and
acetic acid. By combining these components, the varnish can be given any desired
shade.

Colored varnishes are prepared in the same way, only nigrosine and lamp soot are
replaced with the required dyes.
The composition of the varnish is carried out as follows: the film, cleaned of the
emulsion, is taken, wiped clean dry

one 86
a cloth and dry without using heating devices. The washed film is cut into small pieces
and placed in a bottle with acetone: twenty parts by weight of celluloid and 1 00

parts by weight of acetone. The bottle is closed with a ground stopper and left for two
days, occasionally shaking, until the film completely dissolves. Pour nigrosine into the
prepared solution, dissolved in fifty weight parts of amyl acetate. (When making a varnish
from aniline paints, they are first dissolved in a small amount of warm water.) Before that,
they are dissolved in amyl acetate. 3 weight parts of rosin. The varnish prepared in this
way is kept for two days at a temperature 20-25 6 C at rest, then poured into a clean bottle,
trying to drain without sediment, and used for painting.

If desired, the varnish can be thinned with acetone. It is sometimes necessary to

thin the varnish when painting through a spray bottle.
Small areas and small details are painted with a brush. The brush should be
flexible and perfectly clean. The surface to be painted must be well cleaned and
degreased with gasoline or thinner. You need to take a little varnish on the brush and
apply it on prepared surface evenly.

Varnish " Frost "( crystalline) is used for painting most photographic devices and
accessories. It is a special decorative lacquer that, when properly painted and dried,
produces a beautiful crystalline surface that looks like frost. It is a transparent light yellow
liquid of a certain viscosity, acquired as a result of the solution of the ether harpus resin
and a mixture of desiccant and tung oil. To obtain a beautiful crystalline surface, this
varnish is applied with a brush on the already painted surface, on a completely dried
layer of black varnish. Primary painting is like a substrate for the main varnish coating.
To improve the coating, black oil and oil-glyphthal enamels are used as the main
substrate.

The finished product is subjected to a main operation - identifying crystallization.

The product is placed in a chamber with a temperature 45-60 ° C. Such a drying chamber
can be a kitchen oven with gas burners that allow for heat regulation. Drying can also be
organized using an ordinary oil stove. A small box or bucket is installed above the
kerosene stove so that its edges are slightly lower than the upper part of the kerosene
stove. A painted object and a thermometer are placed under the bucket. The flame of
the kerosene stove is regulated until the desired temperature is established. After
sufficient heating of the part, crystallization begins, which proceeds for

25-30 min. It is not recommended to move the part and the drying cabinet to avoid
disruption of crystallization. To observe crystallization in the box, you can make a
viewing window, but be sure to close it with mica.

Items underexposed during crystallization have a glossy oily color. Overexposed

items have a dirty matte color.

If after crystallization the object has any defects, then the varnish is immediately
washed off, while it is damp, with gasoline and painted again.

one 87
 After normal painting and successful development of the pattern, the item is dried at
room temperature. The paint is completely dry after two days.

Adhesive compounds. The universal adhesive is widely used " BF- 2 " and " BF- 6 ". This
glue is so versatile that it sticks together without exception: brass, iron, aluminum, wood,
ceramics, paper, linen. However, it should be noted that organic glass for greater
strength should be glued with dichloroethane, in which they dissolve 2-3 parts by weight
of organic glass.

Shellac glue is made from shellac dissolved in pure alcohol. Due to its strength,
viscosity, elasticity, slow hardening at the beginning and fast drying 'then this glue is
convenient for gluing curtains and tapes at the shutters. Shellac glue is also convenient
when installing sync contacts, where after finishing it is necessary to insulate with glue
some joints of wires and outlets. Here it is irreplaceable, because it serves as a good
dielectric (it has electric current non-conduction).

Resin glue consists of a solution of rubber in high-grade gasoline. This glue can be
improved somewhat by adding a small amount of ether to the gasoline.

The rubber glue is most often used for gluing the corners of leather fur, in which
gaps are sometimes formed, for applying patches to furs, for gluing and gluing leather,
for gluing rubberized curtain fabric.

The pichtovy balzam is used exclusively for bonding lenses and prism blocks. He is
very viscous. Its transparent liquid is almost colorless, contains up to 24% essential oil
and smell a bit like turpentine. Its refractive index is close to the refractive index in optical
glass.

The balm dissolves well in alcohol, ether, carbon disulfide. It is better to store the
balm dissolved in these liquids in bottles with ground-in stoppers and in a cool place.

It must be remembered that a satisfactory gluing result of any kind of glue or any
object always depends on good preparation. The parts to be bonded must always be well
cleaned of dirt, rinsed and degreased. Bonded surfaces give good results if they are
rough.

Lubrication. The service life of the device depends on the correct lubrication of the
mechanism parts. In no case should you use oils that are not intended for lubrication of
mechanisms. The oil layer introduced between the mating surfaces must retain its
lubricating properties for three to four years. This can only be the case if the lubricant is
stable and does not dry out, thicken and oxidize during temperature fluctuations. Having
the required viscosity, good oil should not freeze at relatively low temperatures.

The largest, slow-moving and heavily loaded parts are lubricated with thick oil,
which is much better retained on the surface of the rubbing parts, constantly leaving a
layer of grease. All gear axles

one 88
quickly rotating wheels, flywheels and gear clutch are lubricated with liquid oil.

When repairing and cleaning the mechanism, lubrication can be useful only if the
rubbing parts are well cleaned of old grease and washed in kerosene or gasoline.

It is not recommended to lubricate the mechanism without cleaning it from the old
oil, since in such cases the oil, barely getting into the gaps, flows down, and its residues
fall into places where it may even be harmful. Lubricate only those parts that are
recommended for lubrication.

To lubricate the parts, it is necessary to do several oil adjustments. To do this, you

need to take three pieces of wire with a diameter
0.5; one, 5 and 2 mm and length fifty mm, flatten their tips with a spatula and round off
with a scoop. The scoops should be well cleaned and polished on a chromium oxide
strap. Due to their shape, such dosages form well at the end of a droplet and quickly
release it when it comes into contact with any part.

You should not use oil dosages directly from the bottle where the oil is constantly
stored. It is necessary to pour oil into an oiler specially made for this purpose. The oiler
must have a good screw plug so that the remaining oil can be kept out of dust. Store oil
in dark glass bottles in a cool place.

The so-called optical lubricant is used to lubricate worm gears and tubes. In the
absence of such a lubricant, it can be replaced with a lubricant of the following
composition: 40% technical vaseline, twenty% wax, 25% rosin and 1 5% wood oil. All
components are heated over a fire and, bringing to a boiling point, are kept on fire to 1 0 min.
Then, after removing from heat, filter through a clean, loose cloth.

Bone oil is good for lubricating photomechanisms, as it is more resistant to

temperature fluctuations. In the absence of such oil on sale, you can prepare it yourself.
For this purpose, bones of bovine or bovine legs are cleaned of meat, crushed into small
pieces, placed in an enamel bowl and filled with distilled water. All this product is boiled
for

5-6 hour. over low heat, without subjecting to a high boil. The foam formed during the boil
is gradually removed. The prepared broth liquid is cooled, after which the fat floating to
the surface is collected in a separate glass dish. Then take four well-rinsed vials, insert
glass funnels with filters made of transmission paper into them. Gradually and carefully
pour the fat into one of the funnels. Fat filtration is slow and not immediate. When all the
fat is filtered in the first funnel, it is poured into the second, then into the third, and so on.
Do this until the fat becomes completely liquid. The cooked butter settles for one month.
After that, the oil is separated from the sediment, filtered, and only then is it used to
lubricate photomechanisms.
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

From the editor ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...............................................................3
.........................................................

Chapter 1. Lens and alignment devices 5

Frame ................................................. ........................ Aperture 5
......................... .............................................. Lens ... 7
.................................................. ................. 8
„ Ortagoz ". „ Industar ". „ T- 22 "." Jupiter- 3 "." Jupiter-1 2 ".
„ Jupiter- nine".
Quotation devices ...................................... 11
CHAPTER 2. Camera „ Photocor-1 ".................................. 1 8
Camera body ................................................ ............... one 8
Skew and curvature of the body. The frame viewfinder is detached from the
body. ... The lining of the camera body is damaged.
Fur camera ................................................ ..................... twenty
The fur is peeled off. Negative material is illuminated. Curvature of fur
accordion folds.
Lens stand mechanism .......................................... 2 one
The lens board stops moving vertically. Large viewfinder frame. Move the lens
board horizontally. Infinity position lock. Block

with lens rack.

Skids and racks .......................... ... ... ... ... ... 25
The sides and slats of the sled. Tribca ratchet
Spacers ................................................. ........................ 27
Shutter mechanism ............................................ .... ... ... ... 27
Stuck shutter blades. Diaphragm assembly. Trigger lever. The descent is
jammed when using the cable. Power rocker. Constant exposure levers.

Fitting the lens to the camera ........................................ 37

Chapter 3. Cameras „ Moscow "........... 39
Camera body ........................................... ..... .............. 39
Back cover. The cover of the film clamp is damaged. The red filter is damaged.
Front cover lock malfunctions.

Film advance mechanism and shutter levers Incorrect setting 4 one

framework. Rollers seized. On-
breakdown of the lock. Release button stuck. Shutter release transmission.
Aiming frame of the viewfinder.
Shutter mechanism ................................................ ........... 47
Disassembly of the shutter. Cleaning the shutter. Checking the operation of
sync contacts. Synchronizer installation. Lens aiming system for rangefinder.
Power spring of the annular lever of the shutter. Shutter malfunction when
installed on „ B ". Violation of the petals. Violation of the slow speeds.

one 90
 Auxiliary units and alignment ... ... ... ... ... ... 58
... ... ... ... ...
Check filter lock. Repair of the release button locking system and replacement
of damaged parts of the optical device. Self-timer mechanism. Rangefinder
system adjustment.

Chapter 4. Cameras „ Lover "and „ Change ".... 63

Camera „ Amateur "............................................... 63
Does not close, the viewfinder visor bounces off. Rear cover closure locks. The
rollers of the movement of the film are seized. Limb lock. Mirror. Focusing on
the frosted glass of the reticle. Synchronizer installation.

Camera „ Change "................................................ ..... 68

Hold-down plate on the back of the chamber. Back cover. Viewfinder. Frame
counter. Gate. Installing the synchronizer. Installing the lens. Lens alignment.

Chapter 5. Cameras „ FED "and „ Sharp "....... 74

Camera body. .................................................. ....... 74
The lock of the lower chamber cover is damaged. Relaxed staid nest.

Film movement mechanism ... ... ... ... ... ... .........75
..........................................
Film rewind switch. Shutter speed dial. Frame counter. Rewind limb
films. Film movement. Film scratches.
Shutter mechanism ................................................ ........ 8 1 Rangefinder
The tape in the bolt has come off or comes off. Uneven exposure of the frame.
Synchronizer installation.
................................................ ....................... 87
Correction of the system of transmission of beam directions of the range meter.
Rangefinder adjustment by cam offset. Rangefinder lever stuck. Correction of
the rangefinder with a wedge lens.

Lens Alignment ................................................ .... 90 Ko rn yc cameras

Chapter 6. Camera „ FED- 2 " ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
......
......
92 ......
......
......
......
......
......
...

................................................. ............... 92
The tripod socket is relaxed. The cover of the film clamp is damaged. Cleaning
the inner walls of the case.
Mechanism adjustment ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...93
.....................................................................
Dismantling the camera. Diopter compensator malfunction. The locking
mechanism of the shutter does not work. Synchronizer device.

Cleaning and adjusting the lens .......................... ... • 98

Cleaning. Adjustment. Chapter 7. Cameras „ Vigilant- 4", " Zorkiy-ZS ", „ World"
one 00
Disassembling the camera ................................................ ..one 00
Limb of speeds. Plant limb. Decorative cover. Casing. Lens panel. Self-timer.
Intraframe lens hood. Frame.
Shutter mechanism ................................................ .......... one 04
Slow speed operation. Self-timer. Synchro device.
Rangefinder................................................. ...................... 111
Adjustment. Cleaning.
Chapter 8. Cameras „ Kiev- 4 A", „ Kiev- 4", " Kiev "11 3
Disassembling the camera ................................................ ..eleven 4
Camera body ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
... ...
... ...
... ...
... ...
... ...
... ...
... ...
... ...
... ...
... ...
... ... eleven 6
Camera wrapping. Tripod socket. Cover lock. Pinch roller bar on the back of
the camera.
Film movement mechanism ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... eleven 8
Start rewinding the film. Take-up coil. Counter - frames.

one nine one

 Mechanism shutter ................................................. ......... eleven nine
When set to speed, only one shutter speed is released. When the shutter is
wound, the upper curtain slides downward. The shutter curtain works
intermittently. When the shutter is wound, the lower curtain is not pulled up.
Replacing the shutter curtain ribbons. Synchro device.

Rangefinder adjustment .................... ............................ .. one 3 one

Rangefinder beam splitting unit. If the rangefinder does not have accurate
focus. Adjustment with a screw on a movable bracket.

Light meter ................................................. ...................one 35

The principle of operation of the exposure meter. Trouble-shooting.

Chapter nine. Cameras „ Zenit-S "and „ Zenith "................ 1 4 one

Disassembling the camera ................................................ .. one 4 one
Top cover. Casing. Pentaprism. Mirror device.

Camera body ................................................ ...............one 45

The tripod socket is loose. The lock is scrolling.

Film movement mechanism. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... one 46
The mechanism does not turn off for rewinding. The mechanism does not feed the film.
When the shutter is wound, the dial does not stay in the closed position.

Shutter mechanism ................................................ ....... one 48

The speed setting dial does not work. Synchro device.
Mirror-telescopic device ......................... 1 53
Schematic diagram of a mirror-telescopic device. Winch mechanism action.
Sticking rope. The cable is damaged or worn out. Installing the mirror in
working position. Mirror adjustment.

Lens alignment and cleaning. .......................... .one 62

The lens ring is out of position in relation to the focal plane. Adjustment of any
optional lens. Disassembling the frame and cleaning the lens.

Application ...................... . ....................................... one 65

Mikhail Fedorovich Yakovlev

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