DECLARATION

We the members of GROUP 4, hereby declare that this report is submitted by us to the best
of our knowledge. We assure that this report contains facts that we personally made research
on hence it has not been copied from anywhere else.

Therefore, this report has not been submitted to any other institute and all its content are our
own.

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 TABLE OF CONTENTS

Contents

SDECLARATION......................................................................................................................................1
TABLE OF FIGURES.................................................................................................................................3
INTRODUCTION.....................................................................................................................................4
HISTORIC BUILDING...............................................................................................................................4
Examples of historic sites in Uganda.....................................................................................................4
STAGES OF THE BUILDING REHABILITATION..........................................................................................6
ASSESSMENT FOR REHABILITATION AND RESTORATION WORKS.........................................................7
Rehabilitation Case study: Rehabilitation works on an auditorium-Kyambogo University....................7
Rehabilitation exterior works on auditorium.........................................................................................8
Rehabilitating for interior features......................................................................................................13
Rehabilitating Existing installations.....................................................................................................16
STAGES OF BUILDING RESTORATION...................................................................................................16
DEFECTS IN HISTORIC BUILDINGS........................................................................................................17
DEFECTS INMASONRY..........................................................................................................................17
Spalling................................................................................................................................................17
Peeling paint........................................................................................................................................18
Cracking...............................................................................................................................................19
DEFECTS IN TIMBER.............................................................................................................................20
Moisture..............................................................................................................................................21
Rusting.................................................................................................................................................23
DEFECTS INROOF.................................................................................................................................24
Wet rot on ceiling plaster boards........................................................................................................24
Restoring deteriorated asbestos cement roof covering......................................................................25
RESTORING EXISTING INSTALLATIONS.................................................................................................26
REFERENCES........................................................................................................................................30

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TABLE OF FIGURES
Figure 1 shows Uganda martyrs shrine-Namugongo.............................................................................4
Figure 2 shows Gaddafi National mosque.............................................................................................4
Figure 3 shows Baha’i Temple...............................................................................................................5
Figure 4 shows Kabaka’s palace.............................................................................................................5
Figure 5 shows Namirembe cathedral...................................................................................................5
Figure 6 shows Independence monument............................................................................................5
Figure 7 shows the dilapidated wooden doors and windows of auditorium.........................................8
Figure 8 shows the deteriorated part of external face of the wall of the auditorium...........................9
Figure 9 shows laying of ledger at the bottom of the wall while laying facing bricks..........................10
Figure 10 shows laying of corner bricks...............................................................................................11
Figure 11 shows installing full rows.....................................................................................................11
Figure 12 shows jointing the facing bricks...........................................................................................12
Figure 13 shows rotted wooden floor of the auditorium.....................................................................13
Figure 14 shows bulged plaster board ceiling of the auditorium.........................................................14
Figure 15 shows spalled wall...............................................................................................................17
Figure 16 shows peeling of paint.........................................................................................................18
Figure 17 shows cracking of the wall...................................................................................................19
Figure 18 shows dry rot on the wooden stair case..............................................................................20
Figure 19 shows effect of moisture on fascia board............................................................................21
Figure 20 shows rusted metallic pipes.................................................................................................23
Figure 21 shows plasterboard ceiling affected by wet rot...................................................................24
Figure 22 shows Detoriated asbestos cement roof............................................................................25
Figure 23 shows some damaged drainage pipes.................................................................................27

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INTRODUCTION
HISTORIC BUILDING
An historic building is generally considered to be a building or structure that has some kind
of historic value, that is; people in a present are connected to it via past events in some way.it
can be restored and rehabilitated in order to preserve its historic character.
Rehabilitation refers to process of making possible a compatible use of a property through
repair, alterations and additions while preserving those portions or features which convey its
historical, cultural and architectural values.(http://www.nps.gov)
While
Restoration refers to a process of returning a building to its former state.
(http://www.designing buildings.c.o.uk)

Examples of historic sites in Uganda

Uganda martyrs shrine-Namugongo

Figure 1 shows Uganda martyrs shrine-Namugongo

Gaddafi National mosque

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Figure 2 shows Gaddafi National mosque

Baha’i Temple

Figure 3 shows Baha’i Temple

Kabaka’s palace

Figure 4 shows Kabaka’s palace

Kasubi royal tombs

Namirembe cathedral

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Figure 5 shows Namirembe cathedral

Independence monument

Figure 6 shows Independence monument

STAGES OF THE BUILDING REHABILITATION

 Need for assessment
 Preliminary assessment
 Sufficient data
 Detailed assessment
 Diagnosis

Need for assessment

Accurately determine the nature and cause of defects in the historic building. The
assessment is carried out on both the interior and exterior of the historic building.
When assessing, investigate existing conditions to identify which parts of the
structure, materials, finishes, fixtures and mechanical fittings that need to be restored
and rehabilitated.
Preliminary assessment
This involves data collection and information like history of the building from the
public, noting records of previous repairs and expenses done for the same structure,
time required and urgent safety measures.

Sufficient data
Before rehabilitation and restoration of historic building, sufficient data regarding the
architectural and structural designs of historic building need to be established in order
to help in preparing contract documents which consist of working drawings and
specifications. However, if this data is not sufficient, detailed assessment need to be
carried out.
Detailed assessment
if the data about the historic building is not sufficient, a detailed assessment
about the building needs to be carried out. This involves carrying out detailed
inspection, modelling and temporary monitoring.

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 Diagnosis
This involves accurately carrying out the restoration and rehabilitation works on the historic
structure.

ASSESSMENT FOR REHABILITATION AND RESTORATION

WORKS
Laboratory test
The assessment of the characteristics of building materials is usually carried out taking
samples from some of the structural elements: cores, in the case of masonry elements, and
small fragments, in the case of timber or steel elements, and carrying out laboratory tests on
specimens made from those samples.

The laboratory tests can be chemical tests, mechanical tests: of compression, tensile or of
shear strength
In-situ test
In situ testing of concrete in historical buildings elements and structures are carried out
mainly to assess compression strength and tensile strength, homogeneity, size and
distribution of honeycombing and cavities in concrete, concrete-concrete connections and
steel-wood connections in nods, stiffness, thickness and destruction of elements.

Field measurements
The detailed assessment of a building can also include the measurement of deformations in
structural elements of the building, such as the inclination of columns and the lateral
deformation of walls. Sometimes, it simply includes the measurement of the width of cracks
in building elements. It can still include the detailed survey of the geometry of the building,
in order to allow for its modelling so as to support the structural members of the building.
The measurement of deformations in structural elements of the building usually uses
topographic techniques, such as precision levelling, photogrammetric technique which is used
in the case of monuments or other complex structures.

Rehabilitation Case study: Rehabilitation works on an auditorium-

Kyambogo University
As per this case study, the auditorium is located in the western part of Kyambogo university
and is among the oldest buildings with in Kyambogo university. This historic auditorium is
currently in a dilapidated state with bulging ceiling, deteriorated wall faces, broken staircases,
leaking roofs, broken windows and doors and cracked floors. hence there is a need f or
rehabilitation.
The rehabilitation works are grouped as interior and exterior works

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Rehabilitation exterior works on auditorium
The rehabilitation exterior works include; replacing wooden doors and windows with metallic
ones, changing the external face of the wall into a facing brick wall face and refurbishing the
old stair case.
Replacing old wooden doors and windows with metallic ones

Figure 7 shows the dilapidated wooden doors and windows of auditorium

Tools required

Hammer

Chisel

Plumb bob

Level

Trowel

Materials required

Concrete

Door or window

Nails

Wood strips

Open the door and unscrew the hinges to remove the door from the frame. Remove the
hinges from the door and set them aside for reuse.

Measure the length and width of your wood door. When ordering your new metal door,
choose a door with these exact dimensions to ensure the door will fit your existing opening.

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Use a tape measure to check the thickness of the door. Your new door must match this
dimension in order to function properly within the opening.

Order for the door as the dimensions have already been taken.

Replace the door or window into the opening and trace out the positions of the horns.
Remove the door or window and make those horn provisions using a chisel and a hammer.

Replace the door or window into the opening for final adjustment and ensure that the horns
target properly into the drilled provisions.

Plumb the door or window from the top of the frame and ensure it verticality. once it is
vertical, then secure its sides with wooden struts.

Concrete the horn provision so as to create a permanent bond between the new installed
window or door with the existing wall.

Add more struts to the bottom and top of the frame to secure the door or window in the
opening.

Replacing wall face with facing bricks

Figure 8 shows the deteriorated part of external face of the wall of the auditorium

As per the case study, the walls deteriorated due to rain and age and therefore a need to
mask it with the facing bricks.

Tools used

Blade grinder

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Trowel

Pointing tool

Spirit level

Materials used

Facing bricks

Wood strips

mortar

Procedure

Step1

Prepare Wall for facing bricks

Figure 9 shows laying of ledger at the bottom of the wall while laying facing bricks

 Make sure the wall is smooth and clean. Dust and debris will make it more difficult
for the mortar to properly bond.
 Then, use a level and a straight piece of wood to create a temporary “ledger” across
the bottom of the wall. The ledger is a guide that will allow you to keep the bricks
straight and level as you tile.
 When you’re finished, the ledger will be removed.

Step2

Cut Bricks

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Start by cutting several thin bricks in half using blade grinder. Doing this prior to installation
will save time during the process so you’re not continuously stopping to cut more bricks.

Step3

Install Corner Bricks

Figure 10 shows laying of corner bricks

Start your installation at the bottom corner of the wall. Use a notched trowel to spread mortar
over a small section of the wall.
Next, press a full brick to the outer edge of the lower corner of the wall.
Continue upward with a half cut thin brick with the same application technique: full brick,
half brick, full brick, half brick, etc.
This creates the start of your “running bond” pattern, which is the most common layout of
real brick masonry partitions

Step4

Install Full Rows

Continue this technique about halfway up the wall to start. Then, go back down to the bottom
of the wall and start running the full bricks to complete the first row, or “course.” Work your
way up the wall, row by row.

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Figure 11 shows installing full rows

Step5

Make sure rows are level

Check that the courses are running straight by using a spirit level
Step6
leave space for grout
Create grout joints of 3/8” to 1/2” wide between bricks and between upper and lower rows, as
well.
Measuring by eye is encouraged to give a more authentic look. Alternatively, you can use
wood strips to make grout spacers.

Step7

Install Remaining Bricks

Once you’ve reached the halfway point, continue with the corner bricks the same way as Step
2. You may finish the remainder of the wall to the ceiling height. Continue the laying of full
bricks to complete the remaining rows. Stand back from the wall every so often to “size up”
the job and to check for even running courses.
Step8

Apply Grout

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Figure 12 shows jointing the facing bricks

Allow brick to dry for at least 24 to 48 hours. Then grout in between joints using Portland
cement mixture squeezed through a grout bag and apply to joints in small areas at a time.

Rehabilitating for interior features

Replacing wooden floors with floor tiles

Figure 13 shows rotted wooden floor of the auditorium

Cement is one of the best surfaces for a tile floor to adhere to. As long as the cement is
clean, dry, cured and level, tiles can be installed directly on top of it. This eliminates the
need for a substrate or subfloor to be installed first, with the tile being added on top of it.
Any tile can be installed on top of cement; all adhere equally well once the cement has been
prepared.
procedure
Clean the cement well. Remove any dust, debris or old paint from the floor. These things
may prevent the tile from adhering properly.
Pour a self-leveling floor compound onto the cement if the floor is not completely level.
Cement tends to have humps and valleys present. Self-leveling floor compound seeks out

13
these areas and levels them to provide a smooth surface perfect for receiving tile. Let the
compound dry for at least 24 hours before installing the tiles.
Spread a layer of thin-set mortar over the cement with a trowel made for the size of tile you
are installing. Trowel teeth vary by tile size and will provide you with the correct depth of
mortar. Drag the teeth of the trowel through the mortar until it is completely uniform and
level.
Press the tiles into the mortar and place a flat board over them. Gently beat the board with a
mallet to hammer the tiles into the mortar and create a firm bond. Let the mortar dry for 24
to 48 hours before grouting or walking on the tiles.

Replacing the plasterboard ceiling

Figure 14 shows bulged plaster board ceiling of the auditorium

Make sure to give your ceiling an inspection for any damage or rot under the surface. This
needs to be addressed before you install plasterboard. 

Remove any ceiling fixtures, such as lights or ceiling fans. Crown moldings will also need to
be removed before you start, but you may be able to go over the top of existing plaster
provided there is no underlying issue with your timbers.

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Materials needed

 Plasterboard, enough to fit the width and length of your ceiling

 Screws meant for plasterboard and construction adhesive for fastening
 Drill with the appropriate bit for your screws
 Measuring tape
 Level to ensure your walls are even and to alert you when they are not
 Utility knife to cut the plasterboard to fit
 Plasterboard tape to take care of seams
 Plaster for finishing seams and giving you a smooth final skim coat
 Trowels or plaster knives to help you apply plaster
 Sandpaper to ensure your plaster is smooth and even
 Primer or paint for the finishing touches
 Ladders or step stools to work comfortably at ceiling height

Procedure

1. Measure Your Ceiling

Start by measuring the ceiling in order to know the length and width the room.

Keep in mind that it may not be perfectly square, which could affect your measurements and
how the plasterboard will fit. This will just mean more cutting, but it’s good to know where
things aren’t straight before you begin!

2. Make Any Necessary Cuts to The Plasterboard

To cut a sheet of plasterboard, first, measure the ceiling space. Then, take these
measurements to your plasterboard. Measure and mark the line on the sheet.

Cut the sheet with a utility knife. Apply enough pressure to cut the plaster underneath the
paper cover. Then, you can fold this piece back for a clean edge.

3.  Remove Old Plaster

If you’re taking down the existing ceiling, inspect your trusses and beams to ensure
everything is still in good shape.

This also gives you the opportunity to see your timbers and use this to guide you as you
screw it securely.

4. Apply Construction Adhesive

Apply construction adhesive along the beams for a better fit, avoiding the edges as it could
interfere with your screw placement as it shrinks as it dries.

5. Start in a Level Corner

Start in your most level corner. If you can install a full sheet, do so. Some rooms may be too
small for a full length, so move to cutting it down before you raise it up.

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6. Work Along the Outside Edges

Fasten it with a screw along the outside edges. By working on the outside edges, your
plasterboard will be held to your ceiling. It won’t bend or break as you work, making
installation much easier for you.

7. Complete The Installation

Install plasterboard over your entire ceiling, then finish it by taping the seams and plastering
for a smooth surface.

Rehabilitating Existing installations

 Common installations that are usually rehabilitated or freshly installed include; ceiling
fans, roof vents, ceiling insulation, new light switches and power points wired using
existing cavities or conduits, modern light fittings where originals do not survive, new
plumbing concealed in existing cavities sub-floor and ceiling spaces,
telecommunications where wiring is concealed in existing cavities, sub-floor or
ceiling spaces and connection points are discreetly located.

 Before upgrading or installing new services, consider if the change is necessary and
whether there is another way of dealing with the perceived need. Consider alternatives
that may be available, for example, rather than installing air conditioning, roof vents
and roof insulation may be sufficient. When installing new services or upgrading
existing services.

STAGES OF BUILDING RESTORATION

Building envelop assessment
It is conducted at the onset of the project to establish the condition of the existing
building features and to provide recommendation for repair.
Schematic design phase
If the restoration project is approved, initial schematic designs will be developed in
consultation with the owner. At this phase, decision makers will decide whether to
repair only or replace systems.
Detailed design phase
Once the project specifications are established, the detailed phase begins. The
duration of this phase can fluctuate greatly depending on the size and scope of the
building and project.
Tendering phase
Contractors are requested to visit the site and submit formal bids for the work. Bid
pricing and submittals are reviewed by the consultants and recommendations are
provided to the owner.
Construction phase

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The onsite work begins and restoration is complete.
Restoration case study: Architecture Lecture Block –Kyambogo University.
A case study for restoration works was carried out on Architecture lecture block which is in a
dilapidated state and needs to be restored in order to serve its intended original purpose.
During the study a number of defects on existing features both external and internal were
established. These defects and their remedies are illustrated below.

DEFECTS IN HISTORIC BUILDINGS

DEFECTS INMASONRY
Spalling. This refers to the flaking, cracking or crumbling of brick work particularly where
the parts of the surface might be said to have blown.

Figure 15 shows spalled wall

Remedy
The following are the procedures followed when rectifying spalling;
Repair the source of moisture.
It is better to first solve the problem that caused the water damage in first place.
Remove the damaged bricks
Use a chisel, hammer with a masonry cutting wheel to remove loose bricks. Use the chisel to
extract the old mortar as well.
Clean the opening
Carefully clean the opening where the old brick was. Remove all the dirt and the dust using a
wire brush
Install the new bricks
Slide your new brick into the hole and apply additional mortar around it

17
Cure the mortar
You should cure the mortar by misting it for the next three days
Tools and materials used.
Trowel, sledge hammer, wheel barrow, mortar, brick, gloves, masonry blade, chisel, wire
brush.
Causes of Spalling
Extreme weather change
Chemical reaction

Peeling paint. This refers to a loss of adhesion where the paint film peels away from the
surface like from wall.

Figure 16 shows peeling of paint

Causes of Paint peeling

Moisture rise
Driving rain
Chemical attack
Temperature variation
Remedy to paint peeling
The following are steps taken when rectifying peeling of paint;
Step1
Using a scraper, remove any loose, cracked or peeling paint from a damaged area. Remove
any dust or debris from the area with a water dampened rag.

18
Step2
Using putty knife, apply a thin layer of patching material to the damaged area and allow it to
dry.
Step3
Using a sand paper smooth a patched area, and make it even with the surface
Step4
Remove any final dust or debris from the finished repair and apply the undercoat paint
followed by the finishing coat.
Tools and materials used
Paint scraper, wire brushes, remover, putty knife, sand paper, rags, patching material

Cracking. This occurs due to foundation movement of a corner on an end of a building.

They are usually diagonal in shape.

Figure 17 shows cracking of the wall

Causes of Cracking
Expansion and contraction due to weather changes
Structure distress due to point loads
Settlements due to un stable and loose ground.
Remedy to cracking
The following are the steps taken to rectify cracking in a brick wall;
Step1
Remove the cracked mortar from the brick wall. Remove the old cracked horizontal mortar
from the joints using a raking bar.
Step2

19
spray the brick wall. After all the mortar is removed, spray the wall with water.
Step3
Patch the joints with mortar.
Step4
Point the brick wall.
Tools used
Angle grinder, dust mask, flat chisel, trowel, whiskbroom, tuck-pointing tool

DEFECTS IN TIMBER
Dry rot. This is a wood destroying fungi that feeds off the cellulose in timber in order to
grow and spread
How to identify dry rot
The fungus leaves deep cracks running across the grain with evidence of white sheets (known
as mycelium growth) are often present on the wood
When the fungus is exposed to light it can have a lemon-yellowish tinge look to it.
The timber will be brown in color and will crumble due to dry rot feeding on the timber.
Damage is usually restricted to timber however in some cases large flat mushroom –like
fruiting bodies can easily grow through finishes such as plaster or paint

Figure 18 shows dry rot on the wooden stair case

Causes of Dry rot

Poor ventilation
Penetrating damp
Leaking gutters and down pipes

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Rising damp
Remedy to dry rot
The following are steps taken when repairing a rotted timber;
1.Start by removing as much of the infected wood as possible with a wood chisel and wire
brush.
2.If you cannot reach it all, inject an epoxy consolidate into the wood through drilled holes. It
will reinforce the affected wood fibers and bond with unaffected surrounding areas.
3.A wood-patching product can then complete the repair once the epoxy consolidated has
cured. Then apply the putty like material to the rotted wood. Once it has cured, you can shape
it to the desired form using a chisel and sand paper.
However, the following are the ways of replacing a wood damaged by dry rot.
1.Removing all rotted wood plus an additional 900mmof surrounding wood to ensure no
fungus remains.
2.Removing all plaster, skirting, paneling, linings and ceiling to ensure no fungus remains.
3.cleaning all surfaces, including steel and pipes with in 1500mm of the rotted wood.
4.applying fungicide to all surfaces with in 1500mm of the rotted area.
5.Replacing with pressure treated wood
6.repainting with zinc oxychloride product to prevent the dry rot from returning.
Tools used
Putty knife for applying putty to the areas that need to be filled.
Paint brush
Wood chisel
Sanding block
Materials required
Sand paper
Polyester filler
Wood hardener

Moisture. This refers to a mass of water present in timber that renders to rot.

21
Figure 19 shows effect of moisture on fascia board

Fascia boards are one of most common areas for rot on a house. Their position just beneath
the roofline makes them highly susceptible to water penetration and once the boards become
soaked, they quickly begin to deteriorate.
Remedy to moisture attack on fascia board.
Determine that you actually have rot
Actual rot will show up as soft spots or dark cavities in the surface of the fascia board. Wood
in these places will be mushy and pulpy.
Identify the moisture source.
In order to carry out an effective fascia repair, first identify why the fascia board got wet and
then do your best to prevent water from soaking this area in future. Once you have identified
and fixed the source of your excess moisture, then you are ready to replace the fascia boards.
Remove the rotted fascia board
To start this work, use a utility knife to cut all seams and caulk lines around the piece that you
want to replace. This will ensure that the board comes away from the wall without pulling
any other components.
Use a six-in one painter’s tool to pry the board away from the wall gently at the base. Once
you have worked a gap behind the board, you can switch in a hammer to pry and ensure not
to bruise other parts. Good trick of getting boards come away smoothly is to pry out the nails
holding them in. Also you can use a cat’s paw tool to gouge out and expose nail heads.

Attach the new board

Measure and cut the new board to the same dimension as the previous one. Half drive one
nail into the board and hold the board in place against the sub-fascia. Examine the seams
where it meets other boards. Using the half embedded nail just drive it to lock the board in
place and then the other fasteners can be added.
Tools used
Nail puller,6 in 1 painter’s tool, tape measure and utility knife.

22
Materials used
Exterior paint,2’’spiral shank nails and trim lumber.
Steel defects

Rusting. This is the corrosion of elemental iron and its alloys such as steel.

Figure 20 shows rusted metallic pipes

Remedy to restore rusty metal.

Prepare rusty metal
For a light rust
Clean off loose rust and flaking paint that prevent paint from adhering using a wire brush and
then apply a rust inhibitive primer.
For heavy rust
If the area is heavily rusted and pitted and wire brushing by hand is ineffective, use a drill
with a wire wheel and a primer that adheres to rusted surfaces, such as rust oleum. Grind
down heavily rusted metal spots faster with a wire wheel and a drill or angle grinder.
For problem spots
Coat deeply rusted metal areas with a special primer that chemically converts rust to a
paintable surface. Once done, you can paint over rust. For spots that are very badly rusted or
too delicate or detailed to clean thoroughly, use a product like rust oleum rust reformer,
which soaks into the rust and changes it into a non-rusting, paintable surface. once done you
can paint over a rust.
Tools used
Angle grinder
Corded drill
Wire brush
Wire wheel
Materials required

23
Rust –inhibitive primer
Rust –oleum rust reformer

DEFECTS INROOF
The roof in consideration is a gable roof with an asbestos cement roof covering and a plaster
board ceiling. The defects in each element I s broadly discussed as below;

Wet rot on ceiling plaster boards.

Wet rot is a fungus that tends to grow on porous surfaces for example, timber with a high
moisture content of around 50%. if left untreated wet rot can cause major structural problems
as it can lead to weakened timbers. Wet rot on ceiling plaster board is due to constant
moisture from the leaking roof covering as the source of moisture.
Plaster board acts like a sponge and can absorb a large amount of moisture. This can lead to
sagging, bulging and discoloration of the board and turn it into the perfect breeding ground
for unsightly and unhealthy mold.
Plaster board swells when wet and may pull away from fasteners.

Figure 21 shows plasterboard ceiling affected by wet rot

How to identify wet rot

A black fungus may appear on timber
The timber is likely to feel soft and spongy to the touch with discoloration present.
If the decay has dried out, the timber will crack and crumble easily.
The paint finish will be damaged it can be a sign of wet rot fungus, however in some cases,
the paint can look okay underneath but may be rotting from the back.
Remedy to wet rot on plaster board.

24
The affected area must be checked to ensure that water is not still present on the ceiling
plaster boards.
The plaster boards should be allowed to dry out by suppressing the constant source of
moisture by rectifying the leakages on the roof covering.
If the condensation has formed on a plaster board surface or the plaster board is absorbing
moisture from air, the area (room) must be ventilated to reduce humidity. Fans should be
used to generate air flow and increase ventilation.
All windows and doors of the room should be opened to reduce the humidity and speed up
drying.
A screw driver poked into the board will always be used to tell whether the board is wet or
not. if its soft, its wet.
Once it is tested and confirmed that it is dry, seal the surface of the plaster board by painting
the affected area with a thin application of an oil-based primer. Allow the first coat to dry
completely and then apply a second coat of the primer.
After the second priming coat has dried fully, apply the first coat of paint that was originally
used. It may be difficult to match the existing color when painting the small stained area
affected by wet rot, so it is good to paint the entire ceiling for consistency.
After the first coat has dried up thoroughly, apply a finish coat.
Tools and materials used
Primer and finishing paint, screw driver, paint brushes

Restoring deteriorated asbestos cement roof covering

Figure 22 shows Detoriated asbestos cement roof

Deteriorated asbestos cement roof covering has a health impact on human life as it contains
some carcinogens which may cause cancer to human life.so rectifying any defect on it, one
must follow the following guide lines.
Firstly, responders should always wear outer protective clothing (disposable overalls) fitted
with a hood, boots without laces, protective gloves and disposable respiratory equipment
(classP1 or P2 facemask) on arrival at the site.

25
Restrict access that is to say, minimize the number of people present and use warning tapes
and notices to warn trespassers.
An initial assessment should be carried out to identify the extent of contamination (cement
residue) at the asbestos covering.
Cleaning the asbestos roof
Manual scrapping
Tools used
Trowel, clear polythene sheeting, duct tape, disposable overalls, boots without laces,
protective gloves, disposable respiratory equipment, water and rags, asbestos waste bag.
Procedure
Clear the roof of heavy moss and other vegetation by scraping using trowel
seal off and plug any gaps where toxic asbestos slurry can enter into the building using
polythene sheeting and duct tape.
Thoroughly wet down the roof surface to prevent fibre release and remove vegetation present.
Heavy vegetation growth should always be removed manually prior to using water or steam
as this reduces the amount of asbestos fibres contained in washing slurry.
Put all of the asbestos waste into designated asbestos bags and dispose properly.
Closed box pressure wash
Tools used
Trowel, clear polythene sheeting, duct tape, disposable overalls, boots without laces,
protective gloves, disposable respiratory equipment, water and rags, scraper, cleaning
machine
procedure
Carry out a superficial cleaning to get rid of obvious dust and debris on the asbestos roof.
seal off and plug any gaps where toxic asbestos slurry can enter into the building using
polythene sheeting and duct tape.
Clean the roof from the ground using extendable water fed poles to lightly apply the
recommended biocide over the roof. The cleaning head is lowered down the roof sheets from
the ridge and pressurized jet of water cleans the roof surface as it goes.
Clean and decontaminate the area. All waste water must be filtered before allowing it into
drains as it will almost certainly be contaminated with asbestos fibre.

RESTORING EXISTING INSTALLATIONS

Existing installations that need to be restored as per the aforementioned case study include;
electric switches and power points wired using existing cavities or conduits, light fittings,
water pipes and connectors.

26
Restoring Water pipes and connectors
Basing on the site inspection, the lecture block is installed with sewage and water pipes
which are not properly functioning. Some lack connectors at their bends to the drains and
others are rusted and blocked as it can be evidenced in the image shown below. To restore
these service connections, repairs for the sound existing service can be adopted and missing
or deteriorated ones replaced but not changed in order to keep the historic character of the
lecture block.

Figure 23 shows some damaged drainage pipes

How to repair a broken pipe.

Tools required
Disconnect clip
Emery cloth
Large bucket
Pipe cutter
Materials required
Straight slip repair coupling
Procedure
Step1
Shut off the water supply
Locate the shut off valve to your water main and close the valve.
Step2
Find the leakage

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The burst pipe could be a number of places in the house. Look for the water marks on the
walls and ceiling. Wet floors and floor coverings are signs of a leaky pipe. If it’s not easily
noticeable, you make have to cut open through the wall or ceiling to access the problem.
Step3
Disconnect the push to connect fittings
Various fittings are available and include tees, elbows, shutoff valves and straight slip repair
couplings. These fittings are removable and reusable. Use a disconnect clip to remove the
fitting.
Step4
Drain the pipe.
Open all the faucets connected to the burst pipe and let the water drain out. Place the bucket
below the leaking pipe and let it drain.
Step5
Cut the pipe
Remove about1-1/2’’ of the damaged section of the pipe with the proper cutting tool, making
clean square cuts. Use a pipe cutter to cut copper a PEX cutting tool for tubing. A hacksaw
works well for CPVC pipe.

Step6
Clean the pipe
Use a deburring tool and emery cloth to remove any burrs or sharp edges on the end of the
pipe.
Step7
Install the fitting
Slip the repair coupling onto the first pipe, pushing it far enough so that it clears the second
pipe.
Snap the disconnect clip onto the pipe and push down on the release collar, moving the
coupling towards the second pipe.
Insert the second pipe into the other end of the fitting, pushing down on the release collar
while moving it.
Step8
Check for leakages again
Turn the water on and look for leakages. If it leaks, rotate the fitting until it properly seals
onto the pipe.

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Other methods of repairing pipes are;
Chemical grouting.
Chemical grouting stops leakages.in this process, self-setting grout is injected into leaking
joints or small cracks on the pipes. The grout spreads outside of the crack or joint creating a
seal around the leaking point.it can be done on pipes of 150mm diameter and above.
Slip-lining
Slip –lining involves the insertion of the pipe into an existing pipe. Traditional slip- lining
requires digging a lead –in trench for installation. Pipes are welded together before being
winched into place. Grouting the space between the lining and the original pipe mitigates
infiltration and provides extra strength.
Fold and form pipe repair.
This is a trenchless method in which a new pipe is pushed into the existing pipe and
expanded forming a close fit with the existing pipe.

Benefits of Rehabilitation and Restoration of Historic Buildings

Historic buildings are vital to the upkeep of a cultural significance.

Historical value; older buildings have an intrinsic historical and educational values we can
learn from them in terms of architecture, interior design and decoration.
Architectural importance; most older buildings are full of interesting and unique architecture
design and styles.
 Historic buildings boost tourism and trade like museums.
 To increase its capacity; some of the old buildings are rehabilitated to meet the
demands of the ever increasing population especially in urban areas by increasing its
capacity.

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REFERENCES
 http://www.homeguides.sfgate.com
 http://www.tiberwise.co.uk
 http://www.en.wikipedia.org
 http://www.reminetwork.com
 http://www.kingsofpressure.com
 http://www.waterworld.com
 http://foudationexpert.com

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