BGMEA University of Fashion &

Technology
B.Sc. in Knitwear Manufacturing and Technology
Course Title: Special Knit Fabric & Finishes

Chapter: Introduction to Knit Fabric

Lecture by- Sumi Akter

 Introduction to Knitting
Knitting: Or,
Knitting is a process of fabric
Knitting is a technique to turn forming by the intermeshing the
thread or yarn into a piece of loops of yarns. When one loop is
cloth. Knitted fabric consists of drawn through another, loops are
horizontal parallel courses of yarn formed in horizontal or vertical
which is different from woven direction.
cloth. The courses of threads or
yarn are joined to each other by
interlocking loops in which a
short loop of one course of yarn
or thread is wrapped over the
another course.

Fig: Knitted Structure

Course:
• The series of loops those are connected horizontally,
continuously are called as course. The horizontal row of
loops that are made by adjacent needles in the same
knitting cycle.
Wales:
The series of loops that intermeshes vertically are known as
Wales. Vertical column of loops that are made from same
needle in successive knitting cycle.
 Knitting m/c

Weft Knitting
Warp Knitting m/c
m/c

Flat bed weft Circular weft

Knitting m/c Knitting m/c Tricot Raschel

Crochet
Single circular Double circular
weft Knitting m/c weft Knitting m/c

Single Jersey &

Derivatives
Rib & Derivatives Interlock & Derivatives
 Classification of Knitting
Types of Knitting:
There are two kinds of knitting-
1. Weft knitting
2. Warp Knitting
Weft Knitting
• Weft knitting is the most
common type of knitting, it is
the process of making a
fabric by forming a series of
connected loops in a
horizontal or filling-wise
direction; produced on both
flat and circular knitting
machines.
Warp Knitting
• Warp knitting is the
process of making a
fabric by forming the
loops in a vertical or
warp-wise direction;
the yarn is prepared
as warp on beams
with one or more
yarns for each
needle. The fabric
has a flatter, closer,
less elastic knit than
weft knit and is very
often run resistant.
 Basic Weft Knitted Structure:
1. Plain S/J
2. 1X1 Rib
3. 1X1 Purl
4. 1X1 Interlock
Classification of Knitted Fabric/ Structure:
Weft knitted fabrics are of two types. They are-
1. Single Jersey Structure
2. Double Jersey Structure
Single jersey fabric includes the- Plain structures and
Double jersey fabrics includes the rest 3 structures
I. Rib
II. Purl
III. Interlock
 Single Jersey Fabric
Plain Single Jersey Fabric:
• If a single knit fabric is composed entirely by knit loops, the
fabric is called plain knit or jersey knit.
• Plain s/j fabric is produced by the needles knitting as a single set,
drawing the loops away from the technical back and towards the
technical face side of the fabric. All stitches are formed by
interlooping the yarn in same direction.
• If a weft knitted fabric has one side consisting only of face stitches,
and the opposite side consisting of back stitches, then it is
described as a plain knitted fabric. It is also frequently referred to
as a single jersey fabric (single fabric)
End Use:
Plain knit structures are used for basic T-shirt, under garments,
men’s vest, ladies hosiery etc
Fig: Single Jersey Fabric
Characteristics of Single Jersey Knitted
Fabric
• Face side and back side of fabric are different.
• Technical front smoother than technical back.
• Curl or roll of fabric occurs at the edges.
• Wales are clearly visible on the face side of the fabric.
• Extensibility in widthwise is approximately twice than
length.
• Unraveling of fabric occurs from either side is possible.
• There is only one series of knitted loop per courses in
the fabric.
• Manufactured using only one needle system.
 Rib Knitted Structure
Rib Stitch Knit Fabric:
• Rib Stitch Knits have stitches drawn to both sides of the
fabric, which produces columns of wales on both the front
and back of the fabric.
• Requires two sets of needles operating in between each other
so that wales of face stitches and wales of reverse stitches are
knitted on each side of the fabric.
• Stitches in neighboring wales are interlooped in opposite
directions.
End Use:
There are wide range of uses of Rib structures such as –waist
bands, cuffs, collars etc. are typical applications of Rib fabric.
Fig: Rib Structure
 Characteristics of Rib Knitted Fabric
1. Face stitches on both sides of the fabric
2. No edge curling (Balanced structure)
3. More stretchable in widthwise.
4. Consists of two fabric layers
5. Rib has vertical cord appearance.
6. It is heavier than plain structure.
7. Need finer yarn for Rib fabric production than plain
jersey.
8. It can be unroved from the end knitted last by the
free loop heads through to the back of each stitch.
 Interlock Knitted Structure
Interlock Stitch Knit Fabric:
• Interlock stitch Knits are variations of rib stitch knits.
The front and back of interlocks are the same. These
fabrics are usually heavier and thicker than regular rib
knit fabrics unless used with finer yarns. The
interlocking of stitches prevents runs and produces
apparel fabrics that do not ravel or curl at the edges.
• Stitches in neighbouring wales are interlooped in
opposite directions.
• Composed of two rib structure.
End Use:
Shirts, suits, trouser, sportswear, dresses etc.
Fig: Interlock Structure
 Characteristics of Interlock Knitted Fabric
1. Interlock the technical face of plain on both sides so
the appearance of face and back are same.
2. The Wales of each side re exactly opposite to each
other and are locked together.
3. Dimensionally stable structure.
4. The fabric does not curl at the edges .
5. The fabric can be unraveled from the knitted last.
6. Two yarn must be removed to unravel a complete
repeat of knitted courses.
7. Fabric thickness is approximately twice than that
of single jersey.
 Purl Knitted Structure
Purl Stitch Fabric/ Structure:
• Purl is the only structure having certain wales containing both
face and reverse meshed loops.
• Purl Knit Fabrics look the same on both sides of the fabric. Many
attractive patterns and designs can be created with the purl stitch.
It is often used in the manufacture of bulky sweaters and
children’s clothing. The production speed is generally slow with
Purl knits.
• Purl Knit is made by knitting yarn as alternate knit and purl stitch
in one wale of the fabric. The fabric has alternate courses of knit
stitch and purl stitch. The fabric is reversible and identical on both
sides of the fabric. The fabric does not curl and lies flat. It is more
stretchable in length direction
End Use:
Purl fabrics are widely used for baby wear children clothing,
sweater, thick and heavy outerwear etc.
Fig: Purl Structure
Fig: Purl Structure
 Characteristics of Purl Fabric
• Purl is reversible structure the both side appearance are
same.
• Extensibility is in length wise is higher than widthwise..
• There is no curling tendency.(it does not curl at the edges).
• The fabric will run in the wale direction starting from either
end.
• Unraveling of fabric course by course from either side is
possible.
• The fabric tends to be two or three times thicker than single
jersey.
• There are two types of purl needle bed machine: flat bed
purl and circular purls.
 Difference between S/J and D/J fabric:
S/L Subject Single Jersey Fabric Double Jersey Fabric
Number of Normally single jersey But in rib fabric is produced by two
1 needle used fabric is formed by one set of sets of needles.
needles.
Appearance In single jersey face side In double jersey face and back side
2 and back side appearance is appearance is same.
different.
3 Curling Single jersey fabric There no curling tendency.
tendency has curling tendency.
4 Fabric Single jersey fabric is Double jersey is balanced.
Balance unbalanced.
5 Thickness Thickness and weight of single Thickness and weight of Double
and weight jersey is comparatively less. jersey is high.

6 Laddering Single jersey has laddering There no laddering problem.

problem problem.
7 Expensive Normally single jersey is less Double jersey is more expensive
expensive than double jersey. than single jersey.
8 Look All are face otherwise all are One face and one back.
back loop.
 Difference Between Plain Knit Fabric and Rib
Fabric:
Plain Fabric & M/C Rib Fabric & M/C
1. Face side and Back side of fabric are 1. Face side and Backside of fabric are
different same.
2. Less expensive 2. Expensive
3. Lighter fabric 3. Heavier fabric.
4. Produce by S/J m/c. 4. Produce by Double Jersey m/c.
5. The m/c. contains no Dial. 5. The m/c. contains Dial.
6. The m/c. contains Sinker. 6. The m/c. contains no Sinker
7. The m/c. contains one set of needle 7. The m/c. contains two set of needle
8. Thickness & Warmth: Thicker and 8. Thickness & Warmth: Much thicker and
wormier than plain woven made from wormier than plain woven made from
same yarn. same yarn.
9. Curling: Tendency to curl 9. Curling: No tendency to curl
10. End use: Ladies stocking, fine cardigan, 10. End use: Socks, cuffs, warm outerwear,
men and ladies dresses, sweater etc. under wear etc.
 Comparison between RIB and INTERLOCK
fabric:
Points Plain Rib fabric Plain interlock fabric

1.appearance Face and back side are identical Face and back side are same

2.visibility of Face and back side are identical. Wales of each side are exactly
opposite to each other and
locked together

3.extensibility Width and lengthwise Elongation is same as single

extensibility is twice than single jersey
jersey

4.curling No curling tendency No curling tendency

tendency
5.thickness Approximately twice than single twice than single jersey
jersey
7.series of loops Two series of loops Two series of loops
 Difference Between Plain, Rib and Interlock
Fabric:
Points Plain s/j fabric Plain rib fabric Plain interlock fabric

1.appearance Face and back side are Face and back side are Face and back side are
different identical same

2.visibility of Clearly visible on the Face and back side are Wales of each side are
face side identical. exactly opposite to
each other and locked
together

3.extensibility Widthwise Width and lengthwise Elongation is same as

extensibility is twice extensibility is twice single
than lengthwise than single jersey jersey
extensibility

4.curling tendency Curling occurs at the No curling tendency No curling tendency

edges
points Plain s/j fabric Plain rib fabric Plain interlock fabric

5.thickness Approximately twice Approximately twice twice than single

of yarn diameter than single jersey jersey

7.series of loops One series of knitted Two series of loops Two series of loops
loop for per course

8. Derivatives Single lacoste ,Double 2×2 rib,Half cardigan Single pique or cross
lacoste.,Single or royal rib,Full tucks interlock, cord,
pique,Polo cardigan or polka Eight lock.
pique/Double rib,Swiss double
pique,Two thread pique,French double
fleece,Three thread pique
fleece,French terry
etc.