UNDERSTORY

Understory is my forest story about comfort, style and cosiness. Unusual, modern
construction makes you feel special, fingering weight yarn mixed with delicate mohair
thread pleasantly wraps you and gives the sweater a rustic, forest look. And all of this is
complemented by nice-looking patterns and texture.
 sizes
XS (S1, S2, M) [L1, L2, XL, XXL] XXXL
Check all measurements on page 3

yarn
This sweater can be made with a combination of a fingering and mohair lace yarn
for a cuddly, rustic effect or with just a fingering yarn to make it light and flowy.
Whichever option you choose, remember to keep the gauge.
You will need about 1600 (1740, 1820, 1950) [2170, 2250, 2340, 2390]
2490 meters 1750 (1900, 1990, 2130) [2370, 2460, 2560, 2610] 2725 yards
of each yarn.
Yarn used in project: Julie Asselin Milis and Julie Asselin Anatolia

needles
4 mm (6 US) and 3.75 mm (5 US) circular needles

gauge
20 sts x 26 rows - 10 cm x 10 cm [4” x 4”] on 4 mm
(6 US) needles (Stockinette st)

others
3 stitch markers
Tapestry needle
Scrap yarn or stitch holder

2
 measurements
A: 113 (120, 124, 131) [134, 144, 150, 159] 165 cm 44.5 (47.25, 48.8, 51.5) [52.75, 56.7, 59, 62.6] 65“

B: 27.5 (29.5, 30.5, 32) [34, 36, 41, 43] 45 cm 10.8 (11.6, 12, 12.6) [13.4, 14.2, 16.15, 17] 17.75“

C: 44 (46, 50, 52) [54, 54, 54, 56] 56 cm 17.3 (18.1, 19.7, 20.5) [21.25, 21.25, 21.25, 22] 22“

D: 6 (7, 7, 8) [8, 9, 9, 10] 10 cm 2.4 (2.75, 2.75, 3.15) [3.15, 3.5, 3.5, 4] 4”

E: 46 (48, 50, 51) [52, 53, 55, 57] 59 cm 18.1 (18.9, 19.7, 20) [20.5, 20.9, 21.7, 22.5] 23.25”

F: 57 (59, 61, 62) [63, 65, 65, 66] 68 cm 22.4 (23.25, 24, 24.4) [24.8, 25.6, 25.6, 26] 26.75”

G: 58 cm 22.8”

3
abbreviations k knit
p purl
st(s) stitch(es)
sl slip
m marker
sm slip marker
rm remove marker
pm place marker
mb make bobble
tog together
ssk slip, slip, knit
w&t wrap and turn
M1R (M1RP) lift bar
between sts from back to front
with left needle and then
knit (purl) through the
front of it with right needle
M1L lift bar
between sts from front to back
with left needle and then knit
through the back of
it with right needle
Stockinette st RS: k to the end
WS: p to the end
Garter st RS: k to the end
WS: k to the end

techniques
Knitting in round
Bobble (see page 13)
Short rows
http://www.purlbee.com/2008/06
18/short-rows/ (wrap and
turn method)
Lateral Braid techniques
https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=Lu8Vv1YbV_g
body
Using 4 mm (6 US) circular needle cast on
203 (211, 219, 223) [227, 231, 235, 243]
251 sts.
Setup row (WS): k7, place marker, p1, *k1,
p1*, repeat ** to 7 sts before end, pm, k7.
1st row (RS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat **
to m, sm, k7.
2nd row (WS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat
** to m, sm, k7.

4
Repeat the last 2 rows until you have
18 (20, 20, 20) [22, 22, 24, 24] 25 cm 7 (7.9,
7.9, 7.9) [8.6, 8.6, 9.4, 9.4] 9.8”.
Only XS, L1, XXXL:
1st Bobble row (RS): k7, sm, make bobble
(page 13), k1, mb, k1, p1, k1, p1, mb, p1,
*k1, p1, k1, mb, k1, mb, k1, p1, k1, p1, mb,
p1*, repeat ** to m, sm, k7.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat
** to m, sm, k7.
2nd Bobble row (RS): k7, sm, p1, mb, p1, k1,
p1, k1, mb, k1, mb, *k1, p1, k1, p1, mb, p1,
k1, p1, k1, mb, k1, mb*, repeat ** to m, sm,
k7.
Only S1, M, XL:
1st Bobble row (RS): k7, sm, p1, k1, p1, k1,
make bobble, k1, mb, k1, p1, k1, p1, mb,
p1, *k1, p1, k1, mb, k1, mb, k1, p1, k1, p1,
mb, p1*, repeat ** until you have 4 sts
before m, k1, p1, k1, p1, sm, k7.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat
** to m, sm, k7.
2nd Bobble row (RS): k7, sm, p1, k1, p1, k1,
p1, mb, p1, k1, p1, k1, mb, k1, mb, *k1, p1,
k1, p1, mb, p1, k1, p1, k1, mb, k1, mb*,
repeat ** until you have 4 sts before m, k1,
p1, k1, p1, sm, k7.
Only S2, L2, XXL:
1st Bobble row (RS): k7, sm, p1, k1, make
bobble, k1, mb, k1, p1, k1, p1, mb, p1, *k1,
p1, k1, mb, k1, mb, k1, p1, k1, p1, mb, p1*,
repeat ** until you have 2 sts before m, k1,
p1, sm, k7.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat
** to m, sm, k7.
5
2nd Bobble row (RS): k7, sm, p1, k1, p1, mb,
p1, k1, p1, k1, mb, k1, mb, *k1, p1, k1, p1,
mb, p1, k1, p1, k1, mb, k1, mb*, repeat **
until you have 2 sts before m, k1, p1, sm,
k7.
All sizes:
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat
** to m, sm, k7.
Next row (RS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat
** to m, sm, k7.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat
** to m, sm, k7.
You will now make Lateral Braid (see link in
Techniques).
Next row (RS): k7, sm, then:
1st step: cast on 1 st using cable cast on
method.
2nd step: knit second stitch from the left
needle through the back loop, do not slip it,
then knit first stitch from the left needle
through the front loop, and finally slip both
stitches from the left needle.
3rd step: slip the first st from the right to
the left needle.
4th step: repeat steps 2-3 until you have
one unworked st left before m.
5th step: knit the last stitch before m.
6th step: pass the second stitch from the
right needle above the first one, sm, k7.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p to m, sm, k7.
1st short row (RS): k7, sm, k 112 (120, 121,
125) [129, 133, 130, 131] 139, w&t.
2nd short row (WS): p 35 (43, 37, 41)
[45, 49, 39, 33] 41, w&t.
3rd short row (RS): k to last wrap, pick up
the wrap and knit it together with
the wrapped st, k 10 (10, 11, 11) [11, 11,
12, 13] 13, w&t.
4th short row (WS): p to last wrap, pick up
the wrap and purl it together with
the wrapped st, p 10 (10, 11, 11) [11, 11,
12, 13] 13, w&t.
Repeat the 3rd and 4th short row 5 times
more.
1st pick up row (RS): k to wrap, pick up
the wrap and knit it together with
the wrapped st, k to m, sm, k7.
6
2nd pick up row (WS): k7, sm, p to wrap,
pick up the wrap and purl it together with
the wrapped st, p to m, sm, k7.
Work as established (7 sts in Garter st,
Stockinette st between markers, 7 sts in
Garter st) for 3 (2, 3, 4) [3, 5, 4, 6] 7 cm 1.2
(0.8, 1.2, 1.5) [1.2, 2, 1.5, 2.4] 2.75” ending
on WS row.
right armhole
Separating row (RS): k7, sm, k 80 (84, 88, 90)
[92, 94, 98, 102] 106, k2tog, k1 and turn
work. (The first decreasing of Front part)
Place the remaining stitches on a stitch
holder.
You have now 89 (93, 97, 99) [101, 103,
107, 111] 115 sts.
 Front part
Next row (WS): p to m, sm, k7.
Decreasing row (RS): k7, sm, k to 3 sts
before end, k2tog, k1.
Next row (WS): p to m, sm, k7.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more.
Next row (RS): k to the end.
Next row (WS): p to m, sm, k7.
Decreasing row (RS): k7, sm, k to 3 sts
before end, k2tog, k1.
Next row (WS): p to m, sm, k7.
Next row (RS): k to the end.
Next row (WS): p to m, sm, k7.
Decreasing row (RS): k7, sm, k to 3 sts
before end, k2tog, k1.
You have now 85 (89, 93, 95) [97, 99, 103,
107] 111 sts.
Work for 6 (7, 7, 8) [8, 10, 12, 13] 14 cm,
2.4 (2.75, 2.75, 3.15) [3.15, 4, 4.75, 5.1] 5.5”
ending on WS.
Increasing row (RS): k to 2 sts before end,
m1r, k2.
Next row (WS): p to m, k7.
Increasing row (RS): k to 2 sts before end,
m1r, k2.
You have now 87 (91, 95, 97) [99, 101, 105,
109] 113 sts.
Cut the thread and place all stitches on a
stitch holder and place the back part
stitches back on the needles.
7
Back part
You have now 113 (117, 121, 123) [125,
127, 127, 131] 135 sts.
Decreasing row (RS): k1, ssk, k to the end.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p to the end.
Repeat the last two rows 2 times more.
Next row (RS): k to the end.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p to the end.
Decreasing row (RS): k1, ssk, k to the end.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p to the end.
Next row (RS): k to the end.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p to the end.
Decreasing row (RS): k1, ssk, k to the end.
You have now 108 (112, 116, 118) [120,
122, 122, 126] 130 sts.
Work for 6 (7, 7, 8) [8, 10, 12, 13] 14 cm 2.4
(2.75, 2.75, 3.15) [3.15, 4, 4.75, 5.1] 5.5”,
ending on WS.
Increasing row (RS): k2, m1l, k to the end.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p to the end.
Increasing row (RS): k2, m1l, k to the end.
Joining back and front row (WS): k7, sm, p to
the end, cast on 3 sts, place „Middle”
Marker, cast on 3 sts, purl front part to m,
sm, k7.
You have now 203 (211, 219, 223) [227,
231, 235, 243] 251 sts.
Work as established until you have 6 (7, 7,
8) [8, 9, 9, 10] 10 cm 2.4 (2.75, 2.75, 3.15)
[3.15, 3.5, 3.5, 4] 4” from the joining row
and ending on WS.
 Increasing row (RS): k2, m1l, k to the end.

neckline
Separating row (RS): k7, sm, k to 4 sts before
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p to the end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 2 (3, 4, 4) [4, 4, 4, 4]

4 times more.
MM (middle marker), bind off 8 sts, k1, ssk,
k to the end. (The first decreasing of Back
You have now 109 (113, 117, 119) [121,
neckline)
123, 123, 127] 131 sts.
Place the front part stitches on a stitch
Cut the thread and place all stitches on a
holder and work the back separately.
stitch holder and place the front part
stitches back on the needles.
You have now 108 (112, 116, 118) [120,
122, 122, 126] 130 sts.
Front neckline
Back neckline
You have now 86 (90, 94, 96) [98, 100, 104,
108] 112 sts.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p to the end.
Next row (WS): p to m, sm, k7.
Decreasing row (RS): k1, ssk, k to the end.
Decreasing row (RS): k to 3 sts before end,
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p to the end.
k2tog, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows 1 (2, 3, 3) [3, 3, 3, 3]
Repeat the last 2 rows 4 (5, 6, 6) [6, 6, 6, 7]
3 times more.
7 times more.
You have now 106 (109, 112, 114) [116,
Decreasing row (WS): p1, p2tog, p to m, sm,
118, 118, 122] 126 sts.
k7.
Work as established for 13 (12, 13, 14) [15,
You have now 80 (83, 86, 88) [90, 92, 96,
15, 15, 16] 16 cm 5.1 (4.75, 5.1, 5.5) [5.9,
99] 103 sts.
5.9, 5.9, 6.3] 6.3” ending on WS.
Work as established for 9 (8, 9, 10) [11, 11,
11, 11] 11 cm 3.5 (3.15, 3.5, 4) [4.3, 4.3, 4.3,
4.3] 4.3” ending on RS.
Increasing row (WS): p2, m1rp, p to m, sm,
k7.
Increasing row (RS): k to 2 sts before end,
m1r, k2.
Next row (WS): p to m, sm, k7.
Repeat the last 2 rows 3 (4, 5, 5) [5, 5, 5, 6]
6 times more.
You have now 85 (89, 93, 95) [97, 99, 103,
107] 111 sts.
Joining back and front row (RS): k to 2 sts
before end, m1r, k2, cast on 4 sts, place
Middle Marker, cast on 4 sts, knit back part.
You have now 203 (211, 219, 223) [227,
231, 235, 243] 251 sts.
Work as established until you have 6 (7, 7,
8) [8, 9, 9, 10] 10 cm 2.4 (2.75, 2.75, 3.15)
[3.15, 3.5, 3.5, 4] 4”, measuring from the
neckline joining row ending on WS.
left armhole
Separating row (RS): k7, sm, k to 3 sts before
MM, bind off 6 sts, k1, ssk, k to the end.
(The first decreasing of Back part)
Place the front part stitches on a stitch
holder and work the back separately.
You have now 109 (113, 117, 119) [121,
123, 123, 127] 131 sts.
Back part
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p to the end.
Decreasing row (RS): k1, ssk, k to the end.
9
Work for 6 (7, 7, 8) [8, 10, 12, 13] 14 cm 2.4
(2.75, 2.75, 3.15) [3.15, 4, 4.75, 5.1] 5.5”
ending on WS.
Increasing row (RS): k2, m1l, k to the end.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p to the end.
Next row (RS): k to the end.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p to the end.
Repeat the last 4 rows once more.
Increasing row (RS): k2, m1l, k to the end.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p to the end.
Repeat the last two rows 2 times more.
You have now 113 (117, 121, 123) [125,
127, 127, 131] 135 sts.
Cut the thread and place all stitches on a
stitch holder and place the front part
stitches back on the needles.
Front part
You have now 87 (91, 95, 97) [99, 101, 105,
109] 113 sts.
Next row (WS): p to m, sm, k7.
Decreasing row (RS): k to 3 sts before end,
k2tog, k1.
Repeat the last two rows once more.
Work for 6 (7, 7, 8) [8, 10, 12, 13] 14 cm 2.4
(2.75, 2.75, 3.15) [3.15, 4, 4.75, 5.1] 5.5”
ending on WS.
Increasing row (RS): k to 2 sts before end,
m1r, k2.
Next row (WS): p to m, sm, k7.
Next row (RS): k to the end.
Next row (WS): p to m, sm, k7.
Repeat the last 4 rows once more.
Increasing row (RS): k to 2 sts before end,
m1r, k2.
Next row (WS): p to m, sm, k7.
Repeat the last two rows once more.
You have now 89 (93, 97, 99) [101, 103,
107, 111] 115 sts.
Joining back and front row (RS): knit front
part to 2 sts before end, m1r, k2, knit back
part to the end. (The last increasing of
Front part)
Next row (RS): k7, sm, then:
1st step: cast on 1 st using cable cast on
method.
2nd step: knit second stitch from the left
needle through the back loop, do not slip it,
then knit first stitch from the left needle
through the front loop, and finally slip both
stitches from the left needle.
3rd step: slip the first st from the right to
the left needle.

4th step: repeat steps 2-3 until you have

body one unworked st left before m.

5th step: knit the last stitch before m.

Work as established for 3 (2, 3, 4) [3, 5, 4, 6]
6th step: pass the second stitch from the
7 cm 1.2 (0.8, 1.2, 1.5) [1.2, 2, 1.5, 2.4] 2.75”
right needle above the first one, sm, k7.
ending on WS.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat
1st short row (RS): k7, sm, k to 11 (11, 12,
** to m, sm, k7.
12) [12, 12, 13, 14] 14 sts before m, w&t.
2nd short row (WS): p to 11 (11, 12, 12) [12,
Next row (RS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat
12, 13, 14] 14 sts before m, w&t.
** to m, sm, k7.
3rd short row (RS): k to 11 (11, 12, 12) [12,
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat
12, 13, 14] 14 sts before last wrap, w&t.
** to m, sm, k7.
4th short row (WS): p to 11 (11, 12, 12) [12,
12, 13, 14] 14 sts before last wrap, w&t.
Only XS, L1, XXXL sizes:
Repeat the 3rd and 4th short row 5 times
1st Bobble row (RS): k7, sm, p1, mb, p1, k1,
more.
p1, k1, mb, k1, mb, *k1, p1, k1, p1, mb, p1,
k1, p1, k1, mb, k1, mb*, repeat ** to m, sm,
1st pick up row (RS): *k to wrap, pick up the
k7.
wrap and knit it together with the wrapped
st*, repeat ** to m, sm, k7.
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat
** to m, sm, k7.
2nd pick up row (WS): k7, sm, *p to wrap,
pick up the wrap and purl it together with
2nd Bobble row (RS): k7, sm, mb, k1, mb,
the wrapped st* repeat ** to m, sm, k7.
k1, p1, k1, p1, mb, p1, *k1, p1, k1, mb, k1,
mb, k1, p1, k1, p1, mb, p1*, repeat ** to m,
You will now make Lateral Braid (see link in
sm, k7.
Techniques).

10
Only S1, M, XL:

1st Bobble row (RS): k7, sm, p1, k1, p1, k1,
p1, mb, p1, k1, p1, k1, mb, k1, mb, *k1, p1,
k1, p1, mb, p1, k1, p1, k1, mb, k1, mb*,
repeat ** until you have 4 sts before m, k1,
p1, k1, p1, sm, k7.

Next row (WS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat

** to m, sm, k7.

2nd Bobble row (RS): k7, sm, p1, k1, p1, k1,
mb, k1, mb, k1, p1, k1, p1, mb, p1, *k1, p1,
k1, mb, k1, mb, k1, p1, k1, p1, mb, p1*,
repeat ** until you have 4 sts before m, k1,
p1, k1, p1, sm, k7.

Only S2, L2, XXL:

1st Bobble row (RS): k7, sm, p1, k1, p1, mb,
p1, k1, p1, k1, mb, k1, mb, *k1, p1, k1, p1,
mb, p1, k1, p1, k1, mb, k1, mb*, repeat **
until you have 2 sts before m, k1, p1, sm,
k7.

Next row (WS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat

sleeves
Starting on the shoulder top, pick up and
** to m, sm, k7.
knit 29 (31, 32, 34) [36, 38, 43, 45] 47 sts
along armhole edge, place marker at the
2nd Bobble row (RS): k7, sm, p1, k1, mb, k1,
armpit, then pick up and knit 29 (31, 32, 34)
mb, k1, p1, k1, p1, mb, p1, *k1, p1, k1, mb,
[36, 38, 43, 45] 47 sts along the other
k1, mb, k1, p1, k1, p1, mb, p1*, repeat **
armhole edge. You have now 58 (62, 64, 68)
until you have 2 sts before m, k1, p1, sm,
[72, 76, 86, 90] 94 sts.
k7.
1st short row (RS): k 5 (5, 6, 6) [8, 8, 9, 9] 9,
All sizes:
w&t.
2nd short row (WS): p 10 (10, 12, 12)
Next row (WS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat
[16, 16, 18, 18] 18, w&t.
** to m, sm, k7.
Next row (RS): k7, sm, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat
3rd short row (RS): k to last wrap, pick up
** to m, sm, k7.
the wrap and knit it together with the
wrapped st, k1, w&t.
Repeat the last 2 rows for 18 (20, 20, 20)
4th short row (WS): p to last wrap, pick up
[22, 22, 24, 24] 25 cm 7 (7.9, 7.9, 7.9) [8.6,
the wrap and purl it together with the
8.6, 9.4, 9.4] 9.8”.
wrapped st, p1, w&t.
Bind off loosely in pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rows until you have one
stitch left at each side of the marker.

11
Next row (RS): k to wrap, pick up the wrap
and knit it together with the wrapped st, k1,
sm. collar
Using 3.75 mm circular needle and starting
1st round: k1, pick up the last wrap and knit
at right arm, pick up and knit 44 (46, 50, 52)
it together with the wrapped st, k to the
[54, 54, 54, 56] 56 sts along back neckline,
end of round.
then 44 (46, 50, 52) [54, 54, 54, 56] 56 sts
Knit 11 (11, 11, 11) [11, 11, 11, 7] 7 rounds.
along front neckline. You have 88 (92, 100,
104) [108, 108, 108, 112] 112 sts.
Decreasing round: k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before
Place marker and knit in round.
m, k2tog, k1.
Knit 9 (9, 9, 9) [7, 7, 5, 5] 5 rounds.
Next round: *k2, p2*, repeat ** to the end
of round.
Repeat last 10 (10, 10, 10) [8, 8, 6, 6] 6
Repeat the last round until you have 5 cm
rounds 7 (7, 8, 8) [10, 12, 15, 17] 17 times
2”.
more.
Do not bind off. Turn the work inside out.
Switch to the smaller needles.
Cut the thread leaving a piece of length
about 3 times circumference of your collar.
Next round: k1, p2tog, p1, *k2, p2*, repeat
Fold the edge and sew it at the first collar
** to 6 sts before m, k2, p1, p2tog, k1.
round as shown in the photo tutorial (page
14).
You have 40 (44, 44, 48) [48, 48, 52, 52]
56 sts.

Next round: k1, *p2, k2*, repeat ** to 3 sts

before m, p2, k1.
Repeat last round until your sleeve has 58
cm 22.8” sleeve or as long as you wish.
Bind off loosely in pattern.
Thanks
Thank you my dearest testers! Without you,
that pattern wouldn’t be created. Your work
is priceless... Thanks to my husband for the
wonderful work he does taking pictures of
my projects!
 bobble tutorial
1st bobble row (RS): Make five stitches
from one as follows: *knit the stitch in
the front loop and then knit in the back
loop without slipping it from the left
needle*, repeat ** once more and knit
in the front loop once more. Slip the
stitch from the left needle. Turn work.

2nd bobble row (WS): p5, turn work.

3rd bobble row (RS): ssk, k1, k2tog, turn

work.

4th bobble row (WS): p3, turn work.

5th bobble row (RS): slip 1 st, k2tog, pass

slip stitch over.

A little advice! If you want the bobbles to

have perfect shape, be round and to
prevent holes around them from
occurring, do as follows after 5th row:

Step 1: Pass the stitch with the bobble to

the left needle.
Step 2: Pull the thread around the
bobble starting at the right hand side,
through the bottom, ending on the left
hand side.
Step 3: Pull it tightly making sure the
thread does not slid from the bobble.
Keep knitting.

That little trick changes a lot!

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 collar sewing photo turial
Preparation. Lay the work flat with wrong side facing up and fold the edge. Leave the stitches
on the needle. Prepare tapestry needle and thread.

The live stitches will be sewn together with stitches from one round of the sweater. One live
stitch from the needle will be sewn using two stitches marked on the picture with arrows –
one, which was already used for sewing, and the next one in round, not used yet. (when
starting, this stitch is of course not „already used”). It is important! Otherwise, collar will be
slanted.

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Step 2. Pull the tapestry needle from back through the first live stitch on the needle. Leave the
stitch on the needle.

Step 3. Pull the tapestry needle from bottom through the first, already used stitch.

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 Step 4. Pull the tapestry needle from top through the next stitch of the round.

Step 5. Pull the tapestry needle from front through the first live stitch on the needle (the same
stitch as in step 2). Slip the stitch from the needle.

Step 6. Repeat steps 2-5 until you have sewn all the live stitches.