SECTOR: ART AND CRAFTS

SUB-SECTOR: TAILORING

RTQF Level: 3

CREDIT: 12

TLRCA301: CHILDREN
& ADULTS CLOTHS
MAKING
MODULE NAME: CHILDREN AND ADULT CLOTHS MAKING

Leaning unit 1:Realize Technical Piece

 Learning outcome 1.1. Identify textile fiber and labeling code

 A care label is for any information you want to attach to your garment or clothing.
Sometimes they include laundry symbols to indicate how a particular item should best
be washed, dry cleaned or ironed. Or information on the composition of the material.

Why are care labels attached to garments?

Care Labels of Garments:

Such symbols are written on care labels, attached to clothing to indicate how a particular item
should best be cleaned. ... Damage to garments from incorrect cleaning methods can lead to
complaints and costly customer return.

A laundry symbol, also called a care symbol,

is a pictogram which represents a method of washing, for example drying, dry-cleaning and
ironing clothing. Such symbols are written on labels, known as care labels or care tags, attached
to clothing to indicate how a particular item should best be cleaned.

Five basic symbols are used in the International care labeling system in this order:

Symbols should be recommended in following order:

ASTM/CFR ISO
Washing Washing
Bleaching Bleaching
Drying Ironing
Ironing Drycleaning
Drycleaning Drying

2.1 Washing
In case of washing, drying and ironing symbol dots

may be used to define the temperature, which is specified as follows:

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 Washing meaning:

ASTM/ CFR ISO

Dots
. 30 °c Cold 30 °c
.. 40 °c Warm 40 °c
… 50 °c Hot 50 °c
…. 60 °c Very hot 60 °c
….. 70 °c Very hot 70 °c
…… 95 °c Very hot 95 °c

In addition to the basic symbols, a bar under the symbol means that the treatment is gentler
which is shown in Figure 1.

Symbol ISO AATCC

Normal cycle Normal cycle

Gentle Cycle Permanent Press

Very gentle Delicate/Gentle cycle

or wash as wool

Figure 1: Basic symbols and their meaning

2.2 Drying
Tumble Dry

Dots ISO AATCC

. Low Low
.. Normal Medium
… - High

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Other Drying instructions:
• Line Dry • Flat Dry
• Drip Dry
Other Drying symbols to be recommended for US are shown in Figure 2.

Line dry/hang to dry

Drip dry

Dray flat

Do net dry (used with do not wash)

Figure 2: Drying symbols for US

Drying symbol, which is to be recommended for Europe, is indicated in
Figure 3.

Sample is to be line dried/ flat dried/ drip dried

Figure 3: Drying symbols

2.3 Ironing

Dots ISO AATCC

. 110 °c 110 °c
.. 150 °c 150 °c
… 200 °c 200 °c

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 3. Recommended Tests
3.1 Care Label Recommendation for USA Market
• Either washing or dry -cleaning instructions can be recommended.
• If a sample passes the washing instructions there is no need to proceed for the
drycleaning tests.
• Any symbol, which is not reported, indicates sample is safe for that particular
instruction.
• The most common cleaning method for American customer is machine wash and
tumble dry. So one should not recommend the method, which is more difficult unless
this basic cleaning method would harm the product.
Tests to be performed:
• Color fastness to washing
• Dimensional stability to washing
• [Note: before & after ironing results in case of rayon fabrics (moss crepes, georgettes,
chiffons etc.) need to be reviewed]
• Appearance after washing and ironing
• Colour fastness to chlorine bleach
• (Exception on animal fibres, silk, spandex/elastic and their blends because in these cases
Chlorine Bleach test is not applicable due to inherent properties of the fibres)
• Color fastness to non chlorine Bleach
If sample fails the wash tests one should proceed for following dry-cleaning tests:
• Colour fastness to dry-clean with perchloroethylene.
• For embellished/delicate styles only, appearance (with shrinkage) after dry-cleaning is
to be performed.
• Assess spirality in knitted fabrics & side seam spiraled in garments (woven & knits)

3.2 Tests to Be Performed For Care Label Recommendation For UK And European Market (I)
General tests:
• Colour fastness to washing
• Dimensional stability to washing (Follow ISO 6330:1984)
• Appearance to washing and ironing
• Colour fastness to drycleaning
• For embellished/delicate styles only, appearance (with shrinkage) after drycleaning is to
be performed.
• Assessment of spirality in knitted fabrics & side seam spirality in garments (woven &
Knits)
(II) For white color samples only:

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Test items are same as those listed in (I) with additional test on “Color Fastness to Bleaching
with Hypochlorite”. For coloured goods “Do not bleach” should be recommended.

3.3 Assessment Criteria

Generally, where specific performance standard of buyer is available, requirement can be
consulted from the buyer’s manual. Otherwise, below requirement standards may be followed.

3.3.1 Dimensional Stability to Washing

Apparels:

Woven ± 3.0%
Knitted/Net ± 5.0%

3.3.2 Dimensional stability to dry clean

Apparels:

Woven ± 2.0%
Knitted ± 3.0%

3.3.3 Colour fastness to Washing:

• Colour change ≥ 4
• Staining on M/F USA ≥ 3.5* other countries ≥ 3-4*
Self staining≥ 4.5 or 4-5
*If the staining is less than the specified grade, then “wash with like colours” or “wash
separately” in the wash care label can be mentioned.

3.3.4 Appearance after wash/dry-clean:

• No noticeable skewing (side seam skew; woven ≤ 3% & knitted ≤ 5%)

• Slight colour change (colour change ≥ 4)
• No self staining (self staining ≥ 4.5)
• Slight pilling or fuzziness (pilling rating ≥ 4)
• No noticeable distortion in terms of shape or handle
• No noticeable fraying of threads at seams, buttons, button holes, decorations
(embroidery etc)
• No peeling off of coating from beads or decorations. The numerical rating for non
textile materials shall not be considered
• No noticeable puckering at seams and other portions

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 • Label assessment
• Dimensional change is not to be assessed in appearance test.

Colour fastness to bleach

• Colour change ≥ 4
Colour fastness to drycleaning
• Colour change ≥ 4
• Self Staining ≥ 4.5

3.3.5 Ironing

• The appearance of sample after ironing should be satisfactory.

• If ironing is applied for improving the appearance then same should be
mentioned in the report as follows:
"Cool iron if necessary" or "warm iron if necessary" or "warm steam iron if
necessary" or "hot iron if necessary"
• If the sample does not meet the requirement of shrinkage after wash but meets
the same after ironing then it can be mentioned as follows:
"Cool iron" or "Warm iron" or "hot iron" or "Warm steam iron".

4. Procedure

4.1 Washing and Drying

The colour fastness to washing test is to be conducted at m/c wash warm and at cold.
Sample shall be washed at appropriate wash and dry conditions depending on fibre
composition and product type (Table 1).

Table 1- General guideline of washcare for different fabric types

Fabric Type Cleaning Temp Cycle Drying Procedure Ironing
with regard to Procedure ° C
fibre content
Woven Knitted

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 1 Cotton and Machine 40 Normal Tumble Heavy knits or Warm
cotton Wash dry/ Line Rib: Flat dry Iron
rich blends dry Light weight knits
Single jersey:
Tumble dry low
Interlock : Line dry

2 Polyester and Machine 40 Normal Tumble Tumble dry low Cool

Polyester rich Wash Dry low/ Iron
blends Line dry

3 Viscose and Machine 40 Gentle Line dry Flat dry Warm

viscose rich Wash Iron
blends

4 Washable wool Machine 40 Gentle line dry Line dry/flat dry Warm
and wool rich Wash Iron
blends

5 All Elastane Machine 40 Gentle line dry Flat dry Cool

blends Wash Iron

6 Hand wash wool Hand Wash Flat dry Flat dry Cool
Hand wash silk Iron
Chenille

If sample fails for m/c wash warm and tumble dry conditions then one should proceed for
either m/c wash warm, line dry or less severe conditions i.e. m/c wash cold and line dry/flat
dry. Drying method should be selected keeping in mind the style of merchandise

Make a collar

The 3 types of collars are

- stand collar,

-flat collar, and

- roll collar.

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Different Types Of Collars With Names:

As we all know, a collar is the part of a dress that closes around your neck securely. It can be
attached to a shirt, coat, blouse, etc. apart from a dress. There are different styles of collars
based on 3 basic types of collars. Check out different collar neck designs for blouses, Curtis and
dresses, also shirt collar designs. There is something called neckline on which the collar stands,
know the types of necklines for your collars.

A collar is either permanently attached to the main body of the dress or it can be detachable.
Let’s get into different types of collars with names.

Parts Of A Collar:

Here’s the anatomy of the collar which includes: a band, points, spread, stand and collar
stiffeners, etc. The variations in the parts of a collar make different types of collars.

o The band is a strip of fabric that makes the collar stand perpendicular to the body of the
garment. The outer collar is attached to the band.
o Collar stiffeners inserted into the band to make the bandstand.
o Points are the corners of a collar, sometimes buttoned down or left free to hang.

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 o Spread is the distance between the points of a shirt collar.

Different Types Of Collars In Garments:

Basically, there are 3 collars types based on the position and size of the band. The 3 types of
collars are the stand collar, flat collar, and the roll collar.

Standing/stand-up:

The standing collars fit up to around the neck with stiff standing band, not lying on the
shoulders.

Turnover:

This type stands around the neck and then folds or rolls over.

Flat or falling:

These lie flat on the shoulders, unlike standing collars. There are different types of flat collars
such as shawl collars, peter pan collars, etc.

Collar Styles:

Here are a few collar styles or shirt collar styles to start with based on 3 different types of
collars in garments.

1. Straight Collars:

These are called the basic shirt collar. A straight collar is the most used formal type of collar.

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2. Peter Pan Collars:

These are rounded-edged collars. Mostly used for semi-formal occasions. The collar sits atop in
the button-down blouses.

3. Detachable Collars:

These are not attached permanently to the body of the garment by stitching. Detachable collars
are available separately to use them on different garments. These are a type of neck collar
fashion and made with vivid colors to give a boost to your overall look.

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4. Turtleneck Collars:

These are high round neck collars that sit around the neck and are typically turned down or
scrunched under the neck.

5. Sailor Collars:

The sailor collar is quite in fashion for their double square panel and middle V-neck appeal.

6. Mandarin Collars:

These are Chinese-inspired collars and they are known for their standing charm. The front of
the mandarin collar might be squared or curved in shape giving the shirt a close and structured
fitting.

The mandarin collar is the most used among the types of collars on dresses. Here’s a women
shirt dress with mandarin collar.

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7. Rolled Collars:

These collars stand upright at the edge of the neck and the rest folding downwards. This is
similar to rolling the collar line and hence the name rolled collar.

8. Flat Collars:

These collars fall flat on the dress around the neckline and are plain in their look. There will be
no collar stand, hence they fall on to the shoulders. You can play around accessorizing or using
a statement neckpiece.

Here’s another women shirt dress with flat collar.

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9. Bertha Collars:

These are a large round and flat shape collar around the low v-neck cut. They give a
sophisticated on gowns and can game up your everyday casual-formal.

10. Jabot Collars:

Jabot collars are made with lace. These are ruffles falling over the breast from the neck. They
are also available in a lot of detached forms.

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Learning outcome: 1.3 Make pocket

 In a nutshell, there are three main forms of external pockets on jackets in order of
increasing formality:
-patch,
-flap, and
- jetted.

Patch Pockets. Patch pockets are common on sport coats like this one from Pini Parma. ...

 Flap Pockets
 Jetted Pockets
 The Ticket Pocket
 The Breast Pocket
 Inside Pockets.
1. An inset pocket:
can be placed anywhere along a seam, most often the side seam. It can also be placed
so that it spans two intersecting seams, like a jeans pocket, which goes from the waist
seam to the side seam.

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Learning outcome: 1.4. Make a sleeves

 Sleeve is the part of a garment that covers the arm, or through which the arm passes or
slips. ... There are many other proverbial and metaphorical expressions associated with
the sleeve, such as to wear one's heart upon one's sleeve, and to laugh in one's sleeve.

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  Puff sleeve tutorial just in case you want to sew a pretty chiffon dress or blouse to look the
Alice way or add them to an existing garment team up with the peter pan collar tutorial on
this board, cant sew yourself get mum to do it. Puff sleeve tutorial

Basic Sewing Tools

.
 Pins. You'll rarely make a piece without using straight pins. ...
 Pincushion. A pincushion is a helpful tool to keep your pins organized and at hand when
you need them. ...
 Seam Ripper. A seam ripper does exactly what it's name implies. ...
 Iron and Ironing Board
 Thimble
 Sewing Needles
 Scissors
 Sewing machine
 Threads
 Measure Tape.

 Pattern drafting is the process of creating a pattern by taking measurements from a

person, form, or model, in order to then create a foundation, which is a pattern used as
the basis for the design. The steps in this process are:
Measurement. Pattern drawing. Pattern set creation

How can you tell which sleeve goes into which armhole?

 Underarm Scoop – The very bottom center of the armhole is the first place to match to
the bodice when sewing in a sleeve. Use the Armhole Shaping and Seam Towards the
Front tips to help you determine which sleeve goes on which side.

There are three basic types of sleeves

set in, kimono, and raglan. Set in sleeves are sewn to the bodice armholes. All set in type
sleeves must be eased, gathered, darted, or tucked and sewn into the bodice armscye seam.

 Flat sleeves

Sleeves can either be set in 'in-the-round' or 'flat'. When sewn in the round, all seams
are sewn before the armhole seam. When sewn flat, only shoulder seams are sewn and
the sleeve is attached flat. Afterwards, the sleeve and side seam are sewn up.

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Kimono sleeves

Kimono sleeves are cut all in one with the front and back bodice. The kimono sleeve is always
cut with a deeper armscye than the set in sleeve. Wrinkles under the arm are inherent to this
type of sleeve because of the extra fabric between the bodice and sleeve.

Raglan sleeves

Raglan sleeves: have part of the sleeve attached to the bodice. A diagonal seam is formed from
the neckline to the underarm. Underarm wrinkles are common in this type of sleeve, as well.
Extra ease is added across the chest and the armhole is lowered to increase freedom of

movement.

the armhole without puckering. Fabric weight and stiffness will significantly influence the way a
sleeve cap is eased into the armhole. Jacket and coat sleeves are often redesigned to reduce
ease but not restrict movement. The shoulder line is extended past the shoulder point and the
shoulder slope is lengthened.

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Classic Sleeve

Classic Sleeve The classic sleeve is the sleeve found in most traditional tailored, fitted styles. It
can be drafted with or without an elbow fitting dart. It should be sewn to an armscye where the
shoulder point at the armscye ends at the shoulder tip, thus the armscye is not dropped off the
shoulder. The classic sleeve is characterized by a high sleeve cap. The higher sleeve cap is much
more formal and attractive when movement is not a priority. The armhole depth on the bodice
could be raised slightly to provide a bit more freedom of movement without sacrificing
aesthetics. The classic sleeve is a trade off between style and mobility

T-Shirt Sleeve

T-Shirt Sleeve The t-shirt sleeve is a very casual style. The shoulder point on the bodice armscye
is typically dropped off the shoulder more than one inch (2.5 cm) and the armhole is a very
shallow curve. Diagonal wrinkles will form at the armscye as a result. Greater freedom of
movement is possible with this style though.

The sleeve cap height can be 0” to 2” (5 cm) with 0” to .5” (1.25 cm) ease. The shoulder line and
shoulder slope are lengthened extensively to drop the armscye off the shoulder. The sleeve cap
is flat and can be sewn in before the underarm seam is sewn.

Casual Sleeve

Casual Sleeve The casual sleeve is a less tailored style. The bodice armhole shoulder point is
dropped off the shoulder one half to one inch (1.25 to 2.5 cm). Diagonal wrinkles will form at
the armscye as a result; however, greater freedom of movement is possible. The casual styles
are a nice compromise between style and mobility and between formal classic styles with little
freedom of movement and sloppy t-shirt styles. The cap height should be about 3” (7.5 cm) to
4“ (10 cm) with about 1“ (2.5 cm) ease. The shoulder seam is lengthened one half to one inch
(1.25 to 2.5 cm) on the bodice and the shoulder slope is also lengthened to raise the shoulder
line slightly. The armhole is therefore larger and the sleeve cap is also larger and so less ease is
required in cap.

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Short sleeve

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LEARNING UNIT 2: Make Skirt and Shirt

 Types Of Skirts Styles For Women - Different Skirts Names

There are many skirt styles. The name of a skirt is taken from its design. These are some of the skirt
style names:

A-line skirt, circular skirts. flared skirts, wrap, umbrella, dirndl, gored skirts, pleated skirts, gathered
skirts and others.

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Measuring the Hip

 To measure the hip use your tape measure to measure around the fullest part of the
hips which is usually about 23 cm below the waistline. Take the tape measure around
that fullest hip part until you have the hip measurement. But if your fullest part is much
higher or lower than 23cm down make a note of that when you take the measurement.

Measuring the Waist

 This is a measurement that should be taken right on the waistline and the tape should
feel as firm as a waistband might.

Measuring Skirt Length

 This is not difficult, but may cause you to debate a little. I usually use a measurement
which is to the knee. In my case this is 56cm as I am the average UK height for a

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 woman. Generally you may wish to make the block up to 70cm long dependant on
current fashion.
 But if you will mainly be making longer skirts and adaptations of this block, it's useful to
have a to the knee block and also a mid calf or above ankle block. I leave you to
decide. In the main don't worry too much about it at this at this stage because you just
need to understand and be able to follow the method. The point of making the initial
block is to get a good fit around the waist and hips.
 The length is something you can always adjust later. Also when you make up a cotton or
muslin or calico toile mock up of the pattern you have drafted from these instructions,
you are better having one to the knee so you can adjust the side seams easily if
required.

Steps to Measure a Skirt:

1. Waist: Measure along the waist, make sure its laying flat on the ground when taking this
measurement.
2. Hip: This is the widest part of the hip, Measurement is taken approximately 7–9 inches
(ca. 15-23 cm) below the natural waistline. The measurement is taken from side to side
directly at the hip line

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3. Length: The length measurement is obtained from the top of the waist line to the
bottom of the hemline.

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 Skirt block. Pattern cutting blocks

1. Pleated skirt

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Their description

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Types of zipper

Basic block pattern of shirt

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What is the process of making a shirt?
 A shirt can be made in a Tailoring Shop or in a Factory using industrial sewing machines.
... It starts with getting an order, followed by sourcing of materials, cutting fabrics,
stitching shirt components, finishing and packing, and the process ends once an order is
shipped.
 Shirt measurement
 Neck to Shoulder: Measure from the middle of the neck to end of shoulder (where the
sleeve starts).
 Sleeve length: Measure from the shoulder to the wrist.
 Shoulder to Shoulder: Measure this length from one shoulder to another.
 Chest: Place the tape close under the arms and make sure the tape is flat across the
back.
 Neck Around. Place the measuring tape around the neck at the height where the collar
would normally rest
 Sleeve Length. Measuring your body in this way will require a partner. ...
 Shoulder Width
 Chest circumference
 Waist circumference
 Shirt Length
 Bicep circumference

Showing this image of shirt

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 Description of this model

 Piece of Shirt collar

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  Sleeve
 Sleeve measurement

-arm circumference

-total length

-biceps circumference

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Leaning unit 3 .Making short Trouser and Trouser

Measurement Suggestions:

 Waist–Measure the smallest part of the waist. Leave a tape or ribbon tied snugly around
the waist while taking other measurements.

 Hips–Measure the fullest part of the hips. Also record the distance from the waist down
to tape, located at fullest area.

 Abdomen–Measure about 3 to 4 inches below the waistline over the fullest part of the
abdomen.

 Thigh–Just below crotch, around leg.

 Knee–Measure around knee with knee slightly flexed.

 Calf–Measure around calf.

 Instep–Measure around heel over the instep. This measurement is necessary for narrow
tapered pants. Be sure to allow enough room for the foot to slip through.

 Side length to knee–Measure from the waist to the knee.

 Side length–Measure from the waist to desired length.

 Crotch
a. Depth–Sit on flat chair, bench, floor, or table. Measure from waist to top of flat
surface.
b. Length–Determine measurement from front waist to center of body and from center
of body to back waist.

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 
Basic Sewing Tools

 Pins. You'll rarely make a piece without using straight pins. ...
 Pincushion. A pincushion is a helpful tool to keep your pins organized and at hand when
you need them.
 Seam Ripper. A seam ripper does exactly what it's name implies.
 Iron and Ironing Board.
 Thimble.
 Sewing Needles.
 Scissors.
 Presser Feet.
 Iron
 Ironing boar
 sewing machine
 threads etc…..

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  description of short trouser

 Basic trouser pattern

GUIDE TO PERFECT MEN’S TROUSERS

We value quality and perfection. We know that every man is different. Your size, posture,
figure, and the shape of your body all change the way your trousers fits. This is why we have
prepared a comprehensive guide to help you take the perfect measurements for your bespoke
pants.

We know that taking measurements can be a chore, so we have worked hard to make it as easy
and quickly as possible for you.

What you will need:

 A fabric measuring tape (fabric only).

 Assistance from a friend
 A well-fitting suit, shirt, pair of trousers (not jeans), and a pair of shoes.

When taking measurements:

 Keep the measuring tape comfortably snug, but not tight.

 All measurements should be made to nearest inch / centimeter.
The following sections provide instructions on how you can create your own perfect
bespoke pants. These two (2) measurement methods are completely different from

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 each other but should yield the same result. The steps within each of these methods
are not to be interchanged:
 PANTS MEASUREMENT METHOD. Measure your best fitting pants. ”RECOMMENDED” o
Measure the pants that fit you well and enter the pants measurements through the
control panel.
 BODY MEASUREMENT METHOD. Measure your body. o Ask someone to take your own
measurements then create your body measurements profile online. Many customers
get this wrong the first time, so if you do not have experience doing this, please use
“Pants Measurements Method”.

Men’s Pants – Measure your best fitting pants Please note that the pants should be laid flat
on a table or smooth surface for proper measurement.

HALF WAIST

1. HALF WAIST

1. Button up the pants.

2. Lay the garment out on a flat surface.

3. Measure from one side of the waist to the other.

2. HALF HIPS

1. Button up the pants.

2. Lay the garment out on a flat surface. Take care to pull any wrinkles and fullness from the
back panels.

3. Measure the distance between the two hip points “C” & “D” as shown by image on the left.

3. FRONT RISE 1. Button up the pants. 2. Lay the garment out on a flat surface. Take care to pull
any wrinkles and fullness from the back panel. 3. Measure from the crotch seam - point “K” as
shown in the left image (the point where the inseams meet) to the top of the waistband (point
“L”).

BACK RISE

4. BACK RISE 1. Button up the pants. 2. Lay the garment out on a flat surface. Take care to pull
any wrinkles and fullness from the back panel. 3. Measure from the crotch seam- point “K” in
the image on the left (the point where the inseams meet) to the top of the waistband (point
“M”).

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5. INSEAM

1. Button up the pants.

2. Lay the garment out on a flat surface.

3. Measure the inseam distance from Crotch, where the front and back seams meet, point “G”
to the bottom of the leg, point “H”, at the length you wish to wear bearing in mind whether you
wish to cover the boots or shoes.

HALF THIGH

6. HALF THIGH

1. Button up the pants.

2. Lay the garment out on a flat surface.

3. Measure at the crotch seam line – from point “E” as shown on the left image to the outside
of the leg, point “F”, parallel to the waist band.

OUTSEAM

7.OUTSEAM/PANTS LENGTH

1. Button up the pants.

2. Lay the garment out on a flat surface with outseams at both edges. Take care to pull any
wrinkles and fullness from the back panel.

3. Measure the distance from the top of the waist band to the bottom of the hem.

KNEE

8. HALF KNEE

1. Button up the pants.

2. Lay the garment out on a flat surface. Take care to pull any wrinkles and fullness from the
back panel. 3. The knee is positioned about 13” from the crotch seam halfway down. Measure
the distance between points “N” and “O” as shown in the picture on the left.

LEG OPENING

9. HALF HEM/LEG OPENING

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1. Lay the garment out on a flat surface.

2. Measure from one side of the leg opening to the other side - from points “P” to “Q” as shown
in the picture on the left.

Measure your body

(Ask a friend for help or have your local tailor measure you based on our guide.)

1. WAIST

Wearing trousers and a shirt put the measuring tape around your waist at the height were you
would wear your pants and adjust to your designed snugness with room for a finger. Make sure
the tape is snug and does not ride over the waistband but you should be able to put your index
finger inside the tape. As a guide, this measurement will be about 2 inches above what you
take off-the-rack as they like to flatter, but unfortunately we need real measurements.

2. HIPS

Wearing trousers, measure around the fullest part of your hips, placing a finger between your
body and the tape. Make sure the tape is straight at all times. Make sure your pockets are
empty and the tape is not restrictive. As a guide, you should not make the tape too snug. You
only just need to be able to feel the tape when measuring.

3. CROTCH

Measure from the top middle of the back pants waist (see point A) all along the crotch seam
through your legs until the top of front waist (see point B) Important: If you have any doubt,
compare this measure with pants that fit you well.

4. THIGH WIDTH

Wearing trousers, empty your pockets then, start at the top of your inseam, measure around
your thigh with room for a finger.

5. PANTS LENGTH

Measure from the top of pants waist all along the side pant seam until the bottom of your
pants or roughly 1 inch from the ground.

6. INSEAM

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Measure from the lowest part of your crotch area to the floor. Make sure the tape is tight
along the inside of your leg, that you are standing straight, and then measure. No shoes please!

7. KNEE
Measure around your knee at its widest point. You need only measure one knee.
8. HALF HEM
Measure the width you want for the bottom of your trousers.

 Make a dress
 Measure from head to floor with the shoes you are going to wear for your wedding or
event.

-Shoulder Width

- Measure the distance between two shoulder

joints with arms dropping naturally, taken at the back

 Waist:

-Measure around your waistline - the thinnest part of your upper body.

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 Keep your forefinger between your body and the measuring tape for an
accurate fit.

 Under-Bust:

-Stand straight and measure around your body below the fullest part of the chest.

-Waist to Skirt for the front only (Only for skirts that start with horizontal or

slanted seams below the hips)

-From waist line (thinnest part of your upper torso)

to the start of the skirt in the front center. we will estimate the sides and back

according to original design.

 No need to provide this measurement.

 Upper-Bust: Stand straight and measure around your body above the fullest part of the
bust at your armpit lever
 Bust: Lift your arms to the side and measure around your body, crossing over the fullest
part of the chest
 Hips: Stand straight with your heels together, and measure around the fullest part of
your hips.
Arm Girth (if your dress has sleeves)
 Measure the circumference around your arm.
 Arm's Eye (if your dress has straps or sleeves)

This measurement gives us the size of the sleeve hole that you are comfortable wearing. This
measurement is entirely subjective and you can make it as deep or as tight as you are
comfortable with.

 Hollow to Hem (For the Front of the Dress)

Please stand straight against a wall, mark where your collarbones are, and then measure from
the marking down to the floor. You will need to take the measurement with the exact shoes
you will be wearing. If you are ordering a short dress, then please measure from your
collarbones to the end of the dress (hemline).

 Sleeve Length (if your dress has sleeves) :From shoulder seam to length desired. Please
note that this is NOT your arm's length unless you want long sleeves.
Measuring the body

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A - Bust - Measure the bust at the fullest part. Measure all around the body (total
circumference).

B. Waist - Measure the waist where the body bends. It helps to bend side to side to identify
exactly where to measure. You can put an elastic band around the waist to mark the correct
placement.

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C - Hip - Measure the hips at the fullest part, usually around the seat.

D - High Hip - Measure around the fullest part, about 3 - 4" below the waist. This is helpful
when fitting a slim skirt or pants (to get an accurate idea of the shape of the hip, or the belly).

E - Front Waist Length - Start at the shoulder (right next to the base of the neck), and measure
to the waist, measuring over the fullest part of the bust.

F - Back Waist Length - Measure from the base of the neck (in the center, not the side), to the
center of the waistline.

G - Arm Length - Measure from the top of the arm (find the bone at the shoulder/top of arm) to
the wrist (find the bone at the side of the wrist), WITH THE ELBOW BENT. It's important to keep
the elbow bent to allow for movement when you make a sleeve.

Back Shoulder Width

This is the distance from the edge of the left shoulder across to the prominent neck bone
located at the center of the back of the neck continuing to the edge of the right shoulder.

Place the tape on "top" of the shoulders. Measure from the edge of the left shoulder across to
the prominent neck bone located at the center of the back of the neck continuing to the edge

of the right shoulder.

1.Bust

This is a measurement of the fullest part of your bust or body circumference at the bust. It is a
body measurement which measures the circumference of a woman's torso at the level of the
breasts.

Wrap the tape around the fullest part of your bust and center the tape on your back so it's
levelled all the way around.

*tips

This isn't your bra size!

Your arms should be relaxed, and down at your sides.

Wear the bra you're planning to wear with your dress when taking this.

2. Under Bust

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This is a measurement of the circumference of your ribcage just below where your breasts end.

Wrap the tape around your ribcage right below your bust. Make sure the tape is leveled all the
way around.

*tips

When taking this measurement, your arms should be relaxed and down at your sides.

3.Mid-Shoulder to Bust Point

This is the measurement from your mid-shoulder where your bra strap naturally sit down to
your bust point (nipple). Please wear your bras when taking this measurement.

With shoulders and arms relaxed, measure from mid-shoulder point down to the nipple. Please
wear your bras when taking this measurement.

*tips

Measure with shoulder and neck relaxed.

Please wear your bras when taking this measurement.

4. Waist

This is a measurement of your natural waistline, or the smallest part of your waist. Run tape
around natural waistline, keeping tape parallel with floor. Bend to one side to find natural
indentation in torso. This is your natural waist.

5. Hips

This is a measurement around fullest part of your buttocks.

Wrap tape around the fullest part of your hips, which is usually 7-9" below your natural
waistline. Keep tape parallel with floor all the way around.

6. Height
Stand straight with bare feet together. Measure from the top of head straight down to the
floor.

7. Hollow to Hem

This is the distance from your hollow to the hem of the dress.

Long Dress Hollow to Hem front hem) = Hollow to Floor + Shoes Height

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Hold the measuring tape at your hollow while a friend pulls it down to the length you want your
dress.

*tips

 When taking this measurement, stand straight with your feet together without wearing
shoes.
 We define knee length as the area just below your knee caps. Measuring too high may
result in a dress that is too short.

8.Arm Circumference

This is a measurement around the fullest part of your upper arm.

*tips

 Measure with the muscle relaxed.

9. Armscye

This is the measurement of your armhole.

In order to take your armscye measurement, you must wrap the

measuring tape over the top of your shoulder and around under your armpit.

10. Sleeve Length

This is the measurement from your shoulder seam to where you would like your sleeve to end.
Measure from your shoulder seam to desired sleeve length with your arm relaxed by your side
to get the best possible measurement.

*tips

 Measure with your arm slightly bent.

11.Wrist

This is a measurement around the fullest part of your wrist.

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Page 55
Assignment : Children and Adults Clothes Making/ TEXTILE.

INSTRUCTIONS:

The paper is composed of two (2) mains sections as follows:

Section l. Attempt any SIX (6) out of TEN questions. 30 marks

Section II: Attempt any SEVEN (7) out of TEN questions. 70 marks

Note:

Every candidate is required to carefully comply with the above instructions.

Penalty measures will be applied on their strict consideration

Section 1. Choose and answer any six (6) questions 30 marks

(01) Explain the three direction of the fabric? (5 marks)

(02) Clarify five (5) kinds of collars you know? (5 marks)
(03) The good design in sewing clothes must have pocket. State different existing
pocket. (5 marks)
(04) For sewing different clothes there are many kinds of sleeve you can put on
those garment. Enumerate five kinds of them? (5 marks)
(05) Illustrate the steps of realization of peter pan collar . ( 5 marks)
(06) Enumerate different model of skirt you know? (5 marks)
(07) What are the measurements used for tracing a skirt? (5 marks)
(08) Draw a shirt for men have the following items? (5 marks)
 Opening on front
 Shirt collar
 Four buttons on front
 Short Sleeve
(09) Enumerate the five (5) circumferences body measurements that you know. (5
marks)
(10) For each of the following fashion garments; Give two examples of the
measurement
Required for their tracing.

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 A) skirt D) Short Trouser
B) Blouse
C) Gathers dress E) Shirt

Section II. Choose and Answer any seven (7) questions. 70 marks

(01) What is technology of textiles? (5 marks)

(02) Name the three groups in which fibers are classified.
1)
2)
3)
(03) a) Describe the terms below: (5 marks)
I. Synthetic fibers.
II. Cellulosic fibers
b) Give at least three (3) examples on each of the fibers in (a) above.
(04) What is the meaning of silk. (5 marks)
(05) Give two examples of the fiber extract from the leaf of plant. (5 marks)
(06) Enumerate five (5) characteristics of Linen fibers. (5 marks)
(07) Enumerate five (5) characteristics of cotton fibers. (5 marks)
(08) What part of the cotton plant do you get cotton fibers from ? (5 marks)
(09) Name five of the six types of seam neatening: ( 5 marks)
1) 2) 3) 4) 5)

(10) What type of seam is commonly used on side seam of different garment. (5 marks)

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