Garment Construction Requirements 2012

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION
REQUIREMENTS
JUNE 2012
“CONFIDENTIALITY AND NON-DISCLOSURE NOTICE: This document contains information that is highly confidential and is of a
proprietary nature owned by TRUWORTHS LIMITED and its affiliates (“the TRUWORTHS GROUP”). Unauthorized publication or
disclosure of such information may result in loss or damage to the TRUWORTHS GROUP. This document and/or any of the
information contained therein should not be disclosed to any third party without the express written consent of the Chief Executive
Officer for the time being of TRUWORTHS LIMITED. The receiver and/or user undertakes to use the document and/or the
information contained herein solely for the purposes for which it has been provided and to at all times preserve the confidentiality of
the information, and furthermore indemnifies the TRUWORTHS GROUP from any loss arising from any unauthorized use, publication
or disclosure of same.”
1
Table of Contents:
General Requirements Page:
1. Belt loops 3
2. Binding 3
3. Buttons 3
4. Button holes 3
5. Button attachment 4
6. Spare button policy and attachment 4
7. Check and stripe fabrics 4
8. Collars 4
9. Construction seams and Topstitching 5
10. Darts 6
11. Drawcords 6
12. Elastic and Rib 6
13. Embroidery 6
14. Eyelets, Rivets, Stud Buttons, Hooks and Decorative Trim 6
15. Fabrics and Cutting 6
16. Filling 7
17. Hems 7
18. Hoods 7
19. Interlining 7
20. Knitwear 7
21. Labels 7
22. Lining 8
23. Padded Garments 8
24. Pile Fabrics 8
25. Pockets 8
26. Pressing 8
27. Seam puckering 8
28. Shoulders on stretch Fabrics and Knitwear 9
29. Shoulder Pads 9
30. Stress Points 9
31. Stretch Fabrics 9
32. Thread 9
33. Vents 9
34. Waistbands 10
35. Zippers 10
The data contained on this page is subject to the Confidentiality and Non-disclosure Notice appearing on the first page of this
document.
© Truworths Limited, 2012 - Photocopying strictly forbidden.
2
General Requirements
1. Belt Loops
a) All belt loops less than 15mm wide must be bartacked.
b) Bartacks must be cleanly finished and securely tacked OR turned under and neatly trimmed.
c) Centre back loops must be on the centreback seam.
d) Always check if additional belt loops are needed on the larger sizes.
2. Binding
a) Bound necks to be closed at left shoulder seam wearing.
b) Bound armholes are to be closed at the underarm.
c) Binding must not be roped or twisted.
d) The finished width must be consistent.
e) All bindings and pipings must be colourfast.
f) If using a cord or piping: Ensure that the cord or piping are fed in equally to prevent any distortion.
g) Cord should not be stitched at a seam join to prevent possible shrinkage concerns.
h) Joins are to be avoided wherever possible. If this is unavoidable, confirm the acceptable positions with
the Garment Technologist.
i) Binding joins must neat and securely finished.
3. Buttons
a) Check with the Buying department at briefing stage if branded buttons are required.
b) All buttons to be used must be compatible with the care instructions for the garment.
c) Buttons must be checked for non-metamerism to ensure good colour matching under different lighting
conditions. The Truworths standard is D65 light source.
d) For knitted fabrics, use two-hole buttons instead of four-hole buttons to prevent possible gaping of
buttonholes
e) Metal buttons must be non ferrous to ensure no rusting or corrosion. The standard quality check for
ferrous is to use a magnet.
f) Only nylon or rust proof buttons are to be used for covered buttons.
g) Fabrics used on covered buttons must be fused prior to covering.
4. Button Holes
a) A lockstitch buttonhole machine with cutting blades must be used.
b) Buttonholes must go through a minimum of two layers of fabric.
c) The stitch coverage must be sufficient to give the buttonhole edges a clean cut finish.
d) Buttons and buttonholes must be correctly aligned to ensure that no pulling or distortion occurs.
e) The buttonhole must be compatible with the size of button.
f) The cut length of buttonholes should be 2mm longer than the diameter of button. This is dependent on
the button thickness.
g) Knitwear buttonholes must be reinforced to prevent stretching.
h) All Jeans and Jackets must have eyelet (Reece type) buttonholes.
i) Jeans buttonholes to be fish flybar eyelet buttonhole (double lock chain).
j) A gimp is required on all keyhole buttonholes.
document.
3
5. Button Attachment
a) Buttons must be sewn through a minimum of two layers of fabric.
b) Trim all loose threads from buttons and buttonholes taking care not to sever the tying stitch.
c) A tail length of 3mm - 5mm should be left on the backside of the button.
d) There are 3 acceptable methods for button attachment:
i. Lockstitch Machine: This is the preferable choice and must have cut off knives.
Two-holed buttons require: 9 stitches.
Four-holed buttons require: 18 stitches.
ii. Chainstitch Machine: This may only be used if there is a lock-off and cutting device.
Two-holed buttons require: 8, 12 or 16 stitches.
Four-holed buttons require: 16, 24 or 32 stitches.
iii. Hand stitching: This is only acceptable on special garments (e.g. Leather garments).
There must be at least 8 individual stitches.
Must have a knotted end to thread or yarn.
The knot needs to be a double knot to securely lock off the button.
e) Shank buttons must be attached correctly so that they do not hang and the thread must be locked off and
knotted at the back. Do not twist the remaining thread around the shank.
f) Ensure that there is sufficient space between underside of the button and the body fabric. This is to allow
ease of buttoning and to ensure that the buttonholes close when buttoned.
6. Spare Button Policy and Attachment

a) Spare buttons are always required.
b) Up to five buttons: one spare is required for each button type.
c) More than five buttons: requires two spare buttons for each button type.
d) On Ladieswear, the spare buttons are to be placed in a small clear poly bag and attached to the garment
with a kimbal.
e) On Menswear, follow the spare button placement guideline document.
7. Check and Stripe Fabrics

a) Checks and stripes must be matched at the below points:
Across centre front.
Between each sleeve.
Between each cuff.
Between collar points.
Side seams - refer to the Buyer’s brief.
b) Pockets must also match warp and weft directions unless cut diagonally.
8. Collars
a) Collar points to be symmetrical in both shape and position.
b) The top collar must cover the under collar at collar edges.
c) The centre back collar depth must be sufficient to cover the neck seam.
d) Interlinings must not show through the fabric or be visible on the outside of collar.
e) Collar Construction Requirements for a flat knitted collar:
All ends of flat knit collars must be hand tucked into welt edge of collar.
Exposed back neck seams must be taped or covered.
document.
4
9. Construction Seams and Topstitching
a) Seams must lay flat, be free of puckering, pulling, pleating or twisting.
b) No runoffs, overstitching, skipped or broken stitches will be accepted.
c) Ensure that there are no broken stitches on decorative seams which will affect the appearance of the
garment.
d) Must be cleanly finished with no exposed raw edges.
e) Seam allowance must be the same distance from the seam edge for the entire length of seam.
f) The ends of the stitching must be backtacked securely if this is not caught into another seam.
g) Stitching must overlap 10mm to 15mm at the start/ stop.
h) Topstitching must not have run-offs.
i) Stay or holding stitches must be removed.
j) No skipped stitches will be accepted.
k) Thread colours should colour match the body fabric, unless otherwise briefed or specified.
l) A lockstitch seam should not be used on stretch fabrics.
m) Needle damage is not acceptable on knit fabrics and it is therefore essential that needles are the correct
type and size for the fabric being sewn. Only ballpoint needles are to be used for knit fabric and knitwear.
n) Machines should also be checked regularly for rough or abrasive areas (for example throat plates).
o) The seam type used must be appropriate to the type of fabric, the position of the seam and the intended
use of garment.
p) Blind hem felling must be securely latched off with no runback of the thread end. Ensure that the
machine is set correctly.
q) All raw edges must be turned or overlock neatened. Visible raw edges are not acceptable unless briefed
or specified.
r) French seams must be securely constructed so that the first seam sewn does not pull apart with washing
and wearing. The Supplier must ensure that the first seam has sufficient width to prevent this occurring.
s) Overlocking thread ends must be turned under the seam and well secured.
t) Thread tensions and stitch density must be correct to prevent seams ‘grinning’.
u) 3-thread single needle overlock seams are not acceptable (except on lingerie).
v) Construction seams must be any of the below:
Lockstitch and overlock neaten (10mm width)
Mock safety stitch
4-thread/ 2-needle overlock
5-thread safety stitch
w) The stitch density required per 25mm is below: Seams Topstitch
Woven: Light to medium weight fabrics 10-12 9-10
Stretch: Light to medium weight fabrics 12-14 12-14
Men’s formal shirts 12-14 14-16
Lingerie 16-20 14-16
Denim and Canvas 10-12 8-9
PU, PVC, Leather 8-9 7-8
x) Bartacking is required on the below points:
On all top corners of patch pockets and at each end of inset pockets.
At each end of a jet or welt pocket. The bartack is to match the depth of the jet/ welt.
All belt loops are to be bartacked unless otherwise specified.
At the edge of the fly base and at the base of the fly curve to secure the fly facing to the garment.
At the top of all splits (example: sideseam slits).
y) Avoid using bartacks on very fine and delicate fabrics.
z) Seams must be reinforced with extra stitching where folded edges are joined. Example: on sleeve cuffs
or neckbands.
aa) All thread ends to be neatly trimmed and removed from garments.
document.
5
10. Darts
a) Matching darts must have the identical size, shape and angle.
b) Dart ends to be stitched to a fine point and back tacked securely.
c) Darts must be properly tapered at points. No dimpling or bubbling should be seen at the dart point.
d) Darts must be level and of even length on either side.
e) Darts are to be straight and must be stitched 5mm beyond drill hole/ mark.
f) No drill holes or marks are to be visible.
11. Draw cords

a) Draw cord ends must be permanently tipped or knotted.
b) Draw cords must be secured so they cannot be pulled out.
c) The end of the drawstring tunnel must be cleanly finished or have securely attached eyelets.
d) No draw cords are allowed on children’s product due to safety.
12. Elastic and Rib

a) Must be able to extend to the fullest fabric width without breaking stitches.
b) Tunneled elastic must be caught in the waistband seam or tacked at side seams.
13. Embroidery
a) Mechanical embroidery must have a reinforcement backing and be neatly trimmed and secured.
b) Hand embroidery ends up to 15mm long must be knotted and secured on the back of the garment.
14. Eyelets, Rivets, Stud Buttons, Hooks and Decorative Trim

a) All metal trims must be non-ferrous, plated or have a painted finish to ensure that they are rust proof.
b) All snaps/rivets, hooks and stud buttons must be securely attached and properly supported.
c) The correct machinery and dies must be used to attach the metal accessories. Manual powered
machinery may not be used to attach metal accessories.
d) Fasteners must go through a minimum of two layers of fabric.
e) Eyelets are to be avoided on stretched fabrics.
f) Snaps must not be set through stitching or on an uneven foundation.
15. Fabrics and Cutting

a) No fabric glue is allowed.
b) No repair to body fabric or component parts will be accepted.
c) The below will not be accepted:
breaks in a printed pattern
poor print registration
poor dye penetration
dye streaks
shading or shade bars
d) No drill or punch holes.
e) Ensure there are no exposed notches.
f) Garment pieces must all be cut in same direction within garment.
document.
6
g) All garments pieces must be cut on grain unless otherwise specified.
h) Napped fabrics must have the nap running in same direction throughout garment.
i) All parts of the finished garment must be compatible with prescribed care instructions.
16. Filling
a) Filling must be stitched, quilted or otherwise secured to prevent any migration when worn and washed.
b) Outer fabrics must be of a correct quality to ensure that no filler fibres will migrate through the outer fabric
and be visible when the garment is worn and washed.
17. Hems
a) Are to be even, smooth and flat with no pulling, ripples, puckers, pleats or raw edges.
b) Hemlines to be level unless otherwise specified.
c) Overlocked or merrowed edges should be smooth, well covered and free from frayed or hanging threads.
d) Topstitched hems must be evenly stitched.
e) Sleeve and bottoms must be hemmed after the garment has been assembled (circular/ post hem).
f) Beginnings and ends of hems must be secured with a backstitch.
g) Only a minimal show through will be accepted on blind stitch hems.
18. Hoods
a) Unlined hood: seams are to be cleanly finished.
b) Lined hood: the lining must be tacked to the garment outer.
19. Interlining
a) Must be smooth and flat with no delimitation.
b) Compatible with the outer fabric in weight and shrinkage standards.
c) Compatible with care instructions.
d) Must not show through on the right side of garment.
e) Must not strike through and/ or be visible on the outside of garment.
20. Knitwear
a) Must be delivered flat packed and not on hangers.
b) The maximum length of floats on jacquards to be no more than 25mm.
c) All loose single or joined yarns must be securely knitted back into the fabric, tied and clipped to a length
of no longer than 12mm or caught into the panel seam.
d) The size of stitches should be consistent.
e) All loose plied yarn ends should be split and knitted inconspicuously into fabric.
f) No cross cutting ribs (follow the direction of the wale).
21. Labels
a) 100% polyester labels are to be used in dyed or washed garments.
b) Branding labels may only be purchased from approved Truworths Suppliers.
document.
7
22. Lining
a) Linings must finish a minimum of 25mm above the hemline of outer fabric.
b) Ensure clean finished seams and hems. No raw edges will be accepted.
c) There must be sufficient ease for body movement and differential shrinkage.
d) Lining must be tacked to avoid turning inside out when wearer removes garment.
e) Must be compatible with outer fabric care instructions.
f) Separate linings must be anchored to the outer garment at the underarm or the low shoulder point by a
neatened strip of self-fabric 20mm long to allow for ease of movement.
g) Body and sleeve linings must have ease allowed in the length so that the lining does not pull the outer
up.
h) The centre back of the lining must have a 20mm wide pleat to allow ease across the back.
23. Padded Garments

a) All padded garments must have the filler quilted to the lining.
24. Pile fabrics

a) Fabrics with a definite pile or nap must be cut with the pile running the same direction on all components
to prevent shading.
25. Pockets
a) Pockets mouths and openings must be reinforced with either a backtack or a bartack. The backtack can
be any of the below:
Triangle tack
L tack
U tack
Box tack
b) Stripes and check designs must be matched correctly unless otherwise specified.
c) Top openings must be serged or cleanly finished.
d) Pocket bags must not extend below the garment hem.
e) Matching pockets must be evenly aligned and symmetrical.
f) There must be a minimum 10mm seam allowance on pocket bags.
26. Pressing
a) The appearance of all garments must be store ready.
b) Only vacuum steam beds and steam irons may be used on knitwear.
c) Pressing must not result in glazing.
d) Ensure there are no unintended pressed in creases.
e) Permanent crease lines must extend full length on trousers.
f) Garments must not be pressed with the buttons done up.
27. Seam Puckering

a) Seam pucker must be prevented or kept to an absolute minimum.
document.
8
b) Seam puckering can be caused through:
Incorrect thread tension
Presser foot tension
Incorrect thread gauge
Incorrect needle size
c) The Supplier must ensure that correct machine settings are achieved prior to the commencement of
production.
28. Shoulders on stretch Fabrics and Knitwear

a) No tape is required on a mock safety seam.
b) All conventional shoulder seams must be taped.
c) No “V” shape is to occur on the sleeve head at the shoulder seams.
29. Shoulder Pads

a) Must be securely fastened and lay smoothly.
b) The shoulder pad should not be seen through the outside of the garment.
c) All edges must be cleanly finished.
d) Must be compatible with the garment’s care instructions.
e) Exposed shoulder pads must be covered in a dyed to match lining or fabric.
30. Stress Points

a) All points of stress are to be bar tacked or reinforced.
31. Stretch fabrics

a) All stretch fabric must be relaxed for a minimum of 24 hours before cutting.
32. Thread
a) Only A grade sewing threads are to be used.
b) All thread must be colourfast.
c) Monofilament thread may not be used.
d) All visible thread should match in color, size, strength and composition throughout the garment
unless otherwise specified.
e) All topstitching should match in the number of stitches per inch as well as distance from the edge or
seam throughout a garment.
f) Poly core/cotton wrap sewing threads are to be used on washed or processed garments.
33. Vents
a) Side vents must be cleanly finished.
b) Refer to the Buyer’s brief if skirt and jacket vents are to be closed with a cross tack stitch.
document.
9
34. Waistbands
a) All waistbands must be fused.
35. Zippers
a) Zips may only be sourced only from a Truworths approved zip manufacturer.
b) All zip sliders must be branded with the logo of the zip Supplier for ease of identification.
c) Zip sliders must operate smoothly throughout the full length of the zip.
d) Zips must lay flat and smooth with no bulging when sewn in garment.
e) Zips must not corrode or oxidize after cleaning the garment according to the specified care instructions.
f) Aluminium zips are not acceptable and may not be used.
g) Only type 4 brass zips (snaplock action puller) may be used on jeanswear and washed garments.
h) There must be top and bottom stops on non-separating zippers.
i) Continuous tape zippers must have secure stops.
j) The center front edge of the fly must be either under or edge stitched.
k) The side of the under fly must be either serged, cleanly finished or lined.
l) Requirements for all zips (excluding invisible zips):
Do not sew over the teeth of the zips as this can cause the teeth to open and break.
The stoppers at the base and top of the zip are not to be sewn into the seams. Ensure that the seam
is above the stopper at the top and below the stopper at the base.
m) Invisible zips:
The teeth at the base of the zip are to be heat-sealed in the centre to prevent the teeth splitting apart.
The heat-seal point should be below the end of the garment seam.
An invisible zip should not be used when there is a cross seam due to additional seam thickness
which could stop the zip slider from moving smoothly and possibly result in a broken zip.
document.
10

Garment Construction Requirements 2012

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Garment Construction Requirements 2012

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

General Requirements Page:

6. Spare Button Policy and Attachment

7. Check and Stripe Fabrics

11. Draw cords

12. Elastic and Rib

14. Eyelets, Rivets, Stud Buttons, Hooks and Decorative Trim

15. Fabrics and Cutting

23. Padded Garments

24. Pile fabrics

27. Seam Puckering

28. Shoulders on stretch Fabrics and Knitwear

29. Shoulder Pads

30. Stress Points

31. Stretch fabrics

You might also like