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LIFE

ISSU E №57 | 2 9 O C T OBE R 202 2

AFTER
LOVE
Damian Lewis
on family, grief and
changing direction
I N T E R V I E W PA G E 1 6

BOOKS LIFESTYLE
Jonathan The best
Coe takes food for
on the your health
state of the – and the
nation planet
PA G E 5 9 PA G E 7 5
CONTENTS 29.10.22 ISSUE № 577

5 39 75
CU T TINGS C U LT U R E LIFESTYLE
Pages............................. 5-15 Pages.......................... 39-71 Pages........................75-98

Smart shot Be afraid. Be very afraid Our planet, your plate


Two little boys, one big Garth Marenghi is back, Want to eat healthily and
scary ghost train 20 years after Darkplace help the environment?
P5 P39 Tim Spector explains
how (above)
How much money Podcasts...........................45 P75
C O V E R : T O M O B R E J C / T R U N K A R C H I V E . T H I S PA G E: O R L A N D O G I L I / T H E G U A R D I A N; K AT H Y P L U N K E T T/ T H E G U A R D I A N; A N T O N I O O L M O S / T H E G U A R D I A N; M I C H A E L H E D G E . F O O D S T Y L I N G: R H E A T H I E R S T E I N

makes you happy? Screen...............................46


Coco Khan asks the Music.................................48 Blind date
experts the big questions What to do this week ....50 Will Maddy and Jessie
P7 Cultural prescription....53 get to dance and
Visual arts........................54 drink margaritas?
Down the rabbit hole P78
Lost in the flow of Who dares wins
The White Lotus Alfie Allen joins the SAS Tim Dowling

16
P7 P56 The best-laid plans of a
back-seat micromanager
Flashback Books P79
McFly’s Tom Fletcher at This time it’s personal
four, rocking a red guitar Jonathan Coe on Britain’s You be the judge
P8 crisis and his new novel Should my partner
P59 get rid of our lockdown
Dining across F E AT U R E S wormery now?
the divide Pages...............................................................................16-37 Nonfiction reviews.........62 P80
From the royal family to Fiction reviews............... 65
renewables: will two ‘When you’ve been married to someone and they Ask Annalisa Barbieri
strangers see eye to eye? die, you’re left careering in a different direction’ Haunted houses My lover says he wants
S AT U R D AY P11 Damian Lewis talks to Simon Hattenstone about New domestic noir novels to be with me but can’t
The Guardian love and loss, making music, football and his P69 leave his wife and child
Kings Place Q&A ‘mini midlife crisis’ P81
90 York Way, N1 9GU Singer Jim Kerr P16 The books of my life
— P13 Kit de Waal (below) Style & Body.....................85
Byline illustrations: The last landlords P70 Gardens............................ 88
Delphine Lee Experience Are beloved boozers’ battles for survival being
Spot illustrations: I paddled a giant crushed by the cost of living crisis? Felix Bazalgette The big idea Travel
Lalalimola pumpkin down a river talks to five publicans whose doors have recently Is it ethical to infect Slip slidin’ away
for 11 hours (below) closed for good (above), about what their venues people on purpose? How to ski on a budget …
P15 have meant to the local community – and why it was P71 P90
time to call last orders
P24 Snow place like home
… or get your powder fix
‘It’s at the core of me’ – writers on the books that in Scotland
saved their lives P92
Sign up From Nick Hornby on Emil and the Detectives to
for the Inside Saturday Elif Shafak on Orlando, bestselling novelists reveal How far to the pub?........94
newsletter for a sneak the titles that changed everything A local’s guide.................97
peek at each issue P32 Puzzles..............................98

Edith Pritchett A week in Venn diagrams

This product is made from sustainable managed forest and controlled sources. Printed by Walstead Group, Bicester The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 3
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P E O P L E , I S S U E S & C U R I O S I T I E S of M O D E R N L I F E

Ghost train, 2016 Zavian and his mum. parents continued to absolutely terrified, parenting head,
Shot on Samsung S7 “Zavian was chat, wondering aloud I realised it wasn’t my however, had other
Smart shot Looking back, Mark pestering to go on the what was inside and how best parenting decision priorities. Once the
The best pictures Chilvers says he thought ghost train, and my son long the boys might be. of the year.” sheepish parents and
the ghost train he put his tagged along with the “I decided to set With his professional shaken kids parted,
taken on phones then six-year-old son idea. We watched other up my phone to photographer head on, Chilvers sought
Mark Chilvers Louie on would be a young kids getting on capture them exiting. Chilvers liked how the a counterbalance.
“Scooby-Doo level of the cars, and relented.” I anticipated the purple brickwork, and “I plonked him straight
scary”. The pair were at Louie, on the left, and technical visuals, the boys’ blue and red on to an elephant
a London funfair in the Zavian trundled in with particularly framing the jackets made up a merry-go-round for
early summer of 2016 expressions of “calm scary painted face to the vibrant colour palette. toddlers. It was the
when they bumped into curiosity”, Chilvers left. But when the boys No tweaks or edits gentlest ride I could find.”
Louie’s school friend recalls. Outside, their materialised looking were needed. His Grace Holliday

5
CUTTINGS
Down the rabbit hole
Lost in the flow of pop culture
This week: The White Lotus

by Larry Ryan

Conversations emotions or fewer negative emotions,


such as worry. But since that study
Holidays in hell
Really rich people are terrible. That’s the quasi comforting

with Coco there’s been inflation and a deepening


of the question itself.
lesson of many TV shows. So it is with The White Lotus, last
year’s hit comedy-drama about wealthy wrong ’uns at a

How much money How so?


plush resort in Hawaii. Jennifer Coolidge’s zonked Tanya
survives into the second round of the anthology series (Sky

makes you happy? It’s about what kind of happiness. If it’s


the experience of positive emotions –
Atlantic/Now), with new guests including Tom Hollander,
Michael Imperioli and Meghann Fahy holidaying at a resort
so how happy you are right now, and in Sicily. Which brings our second lesson …

M
oney can buy happiness – just absence of negative emotions – I’d
ask anyone without it. But estimate the satiation point now lies The
Italian
the question of how much about £100,000 to £120,000. And if job
happiness has long been a focus of you’re looking for overall satisfaction Things to do in Italy when you’re dead rich
wellbeing science. I asked Prof with life, that point is higher still. … namely, that American TV and films seem to be set in Italy
Jan-Emmanuel De Neve, director at There’s debate on the numbers though. because, well, it’s nice for everyone to go to Italy: Succession
the University of Oxford Wellbeing (the finest of rich-people-are-terrible TV) had a jaunt, as did
Research Centre, what the data says. It’s shocking to think that only 1% of Master of None. See also: Netflix romcom Love Wedding
Britons will earn enough to feel life Repeat, and forthcoming Spin Me Round. More prosaically,
Given we’re in a cost of living crisis, satisfaction. What else is debated? it might be the generous tax breaks for productions, and
does this question even matter? Everyone agrees on the flattening of the also, it’s Italy – what’s not to like? Periodic bouts of fascism,
Survival first, happiness later, right? curve. What people don’t agree on is perhaps, but we are where we are. Granted, filming in Italy
How we feel about the quality of our the point at which happiness no longer isn’t new – who could forget The Godfather?
lives is what matters. So is there a link goes up. There are few datasets
between money and happiness? capturing very rich people. The ones
Absolutely – especially at the bottom of I’ve seen suggest a full flattening of the
the pay scale. As you move up, there are curve, and even point downwards. Contempt content
diminishing returns. So the wellbeing And maybe a holiday wasn’t top of Jean-Luc Godard’s
boost from a £20,000 salary moving to The few ultra-wealthy people I’ve met agenda when he made Le Mépris, but he did avail
£40,000 would be significant, but to have been surprisingly pessimistic himself of sumptuous Capri locations. Specifically:
achieve that again, you’d have to move – and stingy. I’ve also read studies that Casa Malaparte, a dramatic structure built into a cliff,
from £40,000 to £80,000, then found the more money you have, the “transformed into a masterpiece” by controversial writer
£80,000 to £160,000. To get the same less empathic you are, which doesn’t Curzio Malaparte
M , with the help of a local stonemason.
impact, you have to double each time. bode well for happy relationships.
I think the most important question is
Isn’t the magic number for happiness not whether money makes you happy,
a £50,000 salary? but do happier individuals make more A home from home
That’s from a 2010 study by two Nobel money? We showed that if you look at Casa Malaparte has inspired many, not just the departed
prize winners, Angus Deaton and adolescents and their levels of French-Swiss maestro. Karl Lagerfeld published a book of
Daniel Kahneman. They found that happiness, it’s predictive of how much photographs after visiting the site, while Malaparte: A House
after $75,000 on average in the US – they earn later. Like Me featured contributions from fashion designer Carla
roughly £50,000 then – there was a Fendi and author Tom Wolfe. The latter’s 1987 blockbuster
flattening of emotions. So somebody I’m not sure I like this – please don’t tell novel The Bonfire of the Vanities has more terrible rich people
making $100,000, when compared me some people are born to earn more. – less memorable is Brian De Palma’s flop film adaptation.
with someone making $75,000, wasn’t Not at all! It means we must do
experiencing either more positive everything we can for young people to
have a good and positive mindset.
Last resort
So perhaps we should stop thinking The B
Th Bonfifire script came from playwright/actor Michael Cristofer Call me
Esmail
about GDP and think about – more recently seen in Mr Robot, a series by Sam Esmail. This
national happiness. summer Esmail helped bring to fruition The Resort, a mystery
Totally. As one of the editors of the set in a luxury hotel, which the Guardian said was “like The
World Happiness report, I can tell you White Lotus with added menace”. If it returns for a second run,
HBO, AP, ULF ANDERSEN/GET T Y IMAGES, GET T Y IMAGES

that the relationship between GDP and perhaps they might sojourn in Italy too. In the meantime, we
population wellbeing starts breaking can make do with the real thing, with more terrible rich people,
down after a certain level of GDP per enjoying – or more likely, not enjoying – the good life in Sicily.
capita. That flattening of the curve
happens nationally, too. Growth for
the sake of growth doesn’t translate
into further wellbeing.

Somebody should have told Liz Truss!


But with sustainable growth – improving Pairing notes
educational opportunities, reducing Listen The White Lotus’s creepily infectious music is by Cristobal
inequalities, etc – you can still raise Tapia De Veer. The composer’s work is also in recent horror Smile.
average wellbeing. Drink For a Sicilian taste, try the island’s Nero D’Avola grape.
Coco Khan A bottle of organic Nero di Lupo red will cost you about £20.

Illustration: Lalalimola The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 7


CUTTINGS

Flashback
B
orn in 1985, Tom do music. I hadn’t had a great time at
Fletcher is a hit primary school – I was the odd one out
songwriter turned for loving performing while everyone
bestselling children’s else did football – so to fit in finally

McFly’s Tom author. After missing


out on a place in Busted
in 2001, he got a record deal with
was great.
That school was pivotal for me not
just musically, but it was also the place

Fletcher recreates pop-punk four-piece McFly, one of


the decade’s most successful groups
with tracks such as Obviously, Five
I met my wife. One September, I was
sitting in assembly and we were told
that there were “new kids joining us”.

an old photo and


Colours in Her Hair and All About You. Giovanna walked in and I nudged my
Fletcher has penned 10 UK No 1 singles friend and said, “Cor, she’s well fit,”
and 21 top-10s, writing for One as you do when you’re 13. As our last

talks about the


Direction, Busted and 5 Seconds names both began with F she came
of Summer among others. His over and sat next to me. I said: “Hi,
latest book, Space Band, which is my name’s Tom but you can call me T”;
accompanied by an album performed a few hours later I asked her to be my

calm after his wild by McFly, is out now. He lives with his
wife, TV personality Giovanna
Fletcher, and their three children.
girlfriend. She said yes then I dumped
her at the end of the week. It was off
and on for a few years until it was off –

boyband days This is me performing in the house


I grew up in, in Harrow. I reckon that
and I was heartbroken. After
bombarding her with cheesy ballads
I’d written – there was one called
guitar was a recent Christmas present, Anything that went, “I would do
Interview: Harriet Gibsone so I’d probably just started learning to anything for youuuu” – she took me
Main portrait: Pål Hansen play. I must have been four. back. Ten years of marriage and three
Styling: Andie Redman My dad’s legs and his pair of kids later, it was worth it!
uncharacteristically bold socks are in
the corner. He was a massive Rolling After theatre school I was auditioning

1989
Stones fan and mum was obsessed to be in a lot of boybands and it was
I’d just started learning to with Bryan Adams, so it’s likely I was wearing me out, so much so that
play. I must have been four playing a song by either of those
artists, or Dr Hook, whom I loved,
I nearly didn’t go to the Busted
audition. In the end, my mum
even though his lyrics are very convinced me. I got in, but a few days
inappropriate for a child. Dad worked later they called to say they wanted it
in a Kodak factory and was in bands, to be a trio. So I was out. Having that
playing in pubs and working men’s opportunity taken away from me was
clubs, while mum was a dinner lady totally devastating and embarrassing,
and a teaching assistant. We had but it made me realise how much
a small house and not much money I wanted to be in a band.
but they still managed to give me the I moved in with Danny [Jones],
most magical childhood. Harry [Judd] and Dougie [Poynter]
That being said, I was a highly the weekend after my 18th. I had
GROOMING BY SADAF AHMAD. ARCHIVE IMAGE: COURTESY OF TOM FLETCHER

emotional child. Very invested in films, a birthday slash farewell party at my


but seeing horrible footage stayed with parent’s house, then Danny and I got
me for a long time – I couldn’t handle into my Fiat Punto and drove to our
any violence, and the type of nasty new place. The McFly house was
videos that get shared when you’re disgusting. Harry was the worst – he
young would have a lasting impact. still is. We got about a year and a half
I also had a strong attachment to in and our management realised we
objects. I would assign personalities to needed a cleaner and someone to feed
pieces of clothing; there was genuine us – I put on three stone in the first
heartbreak if I tore something. year from eating crap, and we had
I remember losing a scarf once cockroaches, maggots and ants all
and thought it was the end of the over the floor. That’s what happens
world. I guess, looking back, I can when you get four guys who had never
see that I had slight mental health lived away from home before trying to
issues as a child. look after themselves.

My parents never pushed me in any Fame was tricky at 18. Of course it’s
direction, but they were keen to invest exciting, but suddenly realising you
in my passions. I started at Sylvia don’t have privacy any more was a
Young theatre school when I was nine tough adjustment. People would
– an amazing experience that totally throw things at us walking down the
defined me as a person. I’d compare it street or shout at us. The bands that we
to Hogwarts, but instead of magic you loved and looked up to had a very

8 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


different demographic from McFly,
so if we wanted to see the Used or
Blink-182 we would get the shit kicked
out of us by pissed 20-year-olds at
their gigs. We had to start taking
security with us, but I felt really lame
going to Brixton Academy with a big
guy standing near me the whole time,
so I accepted that I wouldn’t go to
concerts any more. My world got
smaller; I became a complete recluse.
Luckily, I was still with Giovanna and
would drive to her tiny flat in Sidcup
at midnight after being with the band.
It became my escape – a place to hide
where I wouldn’t have to see or talk
to anyone. The next day she would
go to college and I’d stay inside or put
a hat on and try to go to Bluewater
[shopping centre].

Things took off pretty fast for us, and


as the main songwriter there were
certain expectations, especially after
we’d broken the Beatles’ record for
being the youngest band to top the
album charts. We didn’t get much time
off: in 2004, we were given just one
afternoon where we had three hours
off. While it was relentless, I loved it,
too. I’m mildly bipolar so the pressure
to keep creating really tallied with the
manic side of my personality – the
excitement and need to be creative
feeds the mania. Back then, I wasn’t
aware of my condition, but now I can
see that the periods of creativity
would fall into horrific depressions on
the other side, often lining up
perfectly with the cycle of our life
in the band: writing, recording,
touring, promoting and then a crash.
One of the scary things about being
bipolar is trying to manage your
condition when you don’t want to
lose your creativity.
Thankfully, my life is so much
more stable now. It’s not just that
I am writing books, but having kids
changed my life. Now I’m eating
better, exercising and sleeping more.
I need to look after myself so I can look
after my kids.
It’s a lot easier walking down the
road, too. There was a weird shift
a few years ago where I started
going out and getting the loveliest
comments from people. Strangers
would come up to me and shake my
hand. When it first started happening
I was so on edge, paranoid they
might say something mean or do
something to me. But these days

2022 People threw things at us in the street. people just want to say something
nice. Having those bad experiences
These days, they just want to say something nice makes it all so much sweeter.

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 9


CUTTINGS
Want to dine
across the divide?
Scan here to apply

Julie, 53 – is a republican who thinks the UK


should get rid of the royal family
a referendum before the government
made a decision. Julie’s was that
because the ruling party put it in their
manifesto, people would have already
known, so they didn’t need one.
Julie Barbados’s prime minister Mia
Mottley’s Labour party won every seat
– to me that says the voters wanted to
distance themselves from British rule.

Sharing plate
Mark I think we should reopen a couple
of coalmines for backup. My concern is
that we haven’t got enough energy to
support the country as it is. We should
invest in renewables, of course, but it’s
not going to supply us with everything
we need.
Julie I said: “We could if we had any
miners, but I suspect that would be
quite expensive, retraining people
who left generations ago.” I don’t
agree with fossil fuels, obviously. It
might be economical in the short term,
but that’s because the current policy
hasn’t invested enough in renewables.
Mark The country imports wood
Mark, 48 – supports the royals and would pellets from North America, which
basically get driven on a lorry to the
not be keen on a President Boris Johnson coast and sailed to Yorkshire. That’s
not environmentally friendly. She was
quite aghast at the wood pellets. She’s
more into building up nuclear power.

Dining
Julie, 53, Oxfordshire asking me what I did – and I’m I don’t think we should be dependent
Occupation Inclusion manager in a diversity and inclusion manager. on world energy prices. We’re either
scientific research going to have to carry on buying wood

across the Voting record Labour and Lib Dem in


the past. Given a real choice, would vote
Green. Would never vote Conservative
The big beef
Julie He supports the royal family, but
immediately said, “not Andrew”. He
pellets, relying on Russian energy or
cut the power off. The country’s going
to have to make a choice.

divide Amuse bouche Once went to the airport


with a credit card, got on the first plane
felt the younger royals were more
accessible, and that the Queen hadn’t
been particularly accessible until Diana
For afters
Mark Are the police institutionally
Can breaking
leaving and went to Australia for the
weekend, from Kuala Lumpur came along. But I’m a republican – I’d sexist? My argument was that, over
get rid of all of them. I said something time, the workforce changes and you

bread bridge Mark, 48, Oxfordshire


Occupation Civil servant
Voting record Conservative once, in
tongue in cheek: that I’d force them to
sell all their inherited land and property
to the National Trust, then use the
get a younger and more culturally aware
intake as people rise up to management.
I think cultures gradually change,

political 2005, otherwise always Labour


Amuse bouche Used to run an LGBTQ+
walking group in Oxfordshire
profit to make reparations for slavery.
It’s never going to happen. I just
thought I’d see what he said. His jaw
because I’ve seen it in our place.
Julie I’m not sure people are changing.
Maybe to an extent, but with cultural

differences? For starters


dropped. I think it was a step too far.
Mark I’ve got no strong feelings one way
issues you need more leadership – you
can’t assume it’s inevitable.
Julie The ma ître d’ explained that they or the other; it’s not a big thing for me.
were expecting a party of 40 and there I can’t think of a good alternative to Takeaways
might be background noise, which the royal family. I wouldn’t be too Mark I walked her back to the
ADDITIONAL REPORTING: SAR AH HOOPER

there really was. keen on President Cameron or shopping centre where the car park is
Mark I can’t remember what I ate as it President Blair or President Boris. located. We parted there, on good,
was so noisy. We didn’t actually stay Julie’s line was that the prime minister friendly terms.
that long, and talked more walking back is quite presidential anyway so it Julie I left with the impression that he
to the car park than in the restaurant. wouldn’t make much difference. was a kind person – a trade unionist,
Julie Once we settled down, and he Julie He said: “At least the monarch which I approve of, and quite earnest.
stopped being nervous, he was very has the final say on things,” and I said:
sweet. He cares deeply about fairness “When do they ever use the final say?” Julie and Mark ate at The Folly in
in the workplace, and he’s involved in Mark We talked about Barbados, which Oxford, no1-folly-bridge.co.uk. Want to
diversity and inclusion groups. He has become a republic. My argument meet someone from across the divide?
Interview: Zoe Williams talked for about 40 minutes without was that they should have had Go to theguardian.com/different-views

Portrait: Sam Frost The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 11


CUTTINGS

The Simple Minds singer on missing the


B
orn in Glasgow, Jim Kerr, Who is your celebrity crush?
63, formed Simple Minds Michael Sheen.
northern lights, making peace with with Charlie Burchill in the
late 1970s. The band had hits with If you could bring something
getting older, and a kiss from Springsteen Promised You a Miracle and Don’t You
(Forget About Me) – which featured in
extinct back to life, what would
you choose?
the 1985 film The Breakfast Club – and Jim Morrison.
had five UK No 1 albums. Their new
album is called Direction of the Heart. What is your most unappealing habit?

Jim Kerr
Kerr has two children with former I tend to drift off – no matter the
wives Chrissie Hynde and Patsy Kensit. company I’m in.
He lives in Sicily.
What scares you about getting older?
What is your greatest fear? I’d like to think that I’ve made peace
Interview: Rosanna Greenstreet I have a mild fear of not being with all that’s inevitable.
appreciative enough for the luck that
has come my way. That’s about it. Which book are you ashamed not to
have read?
Which living person do you most Ulysses. Boy oh boy, how I’ve tried!
admire, and why?
A friend named Paul Hill [one of the What did you want to be when you
Guildford Four] spent 15 years in were growing up?
prison doing time for crimes he did not In the Beatles.
commit. We communicate most days.
I admire the hell out of him. What does love feel like?
Like Celtic hitting the back of the net
What is the trait you most deplore in the 90th minute of a Champions
in yourself? League football match.
I’ve learned to give myself a break.
Everyone should. What was the best kiss of your life?
Bruce Springsteen gave me both a bear
What was your most hug and a peck on the cheek backstage
embarrassing moment? during his Broadway show.
I once took a tumble off a high stage
in Holland. Chipping my collarbone What has been your
and my front teeth was painful. Not as biggest disappointment?
much as the embarrassment, however. I travelled all the way to the Arctic
Circle to see the aurora borealis, then
What makes you unhappy? fell asleep and missed it.
I hate feeling as if we haven’t fully
delivered during a live performance. What do you consider your
greatest achievement?
What do you most dislike about That’s easy. I’ve consistently punched
your appearance? above my weight.
Don’t get me started.
What has been your closest brush
What is the worst thing anyone’s with the law?
said to you? The evening before we began
“Oh, it’s you! I love you! Er … recording our Sons and Fascination
What’s your name again? You’re the album, I spent a night in the cells after
singer in Simply Red. Right?” being caught climbing the walls of
the Russian embassy in London. To
make matters worse, I was tripping
on LSD. I could not determine if what
was happening was really happening.
Unfortunately, it was! Fortunately, no
I spent a night in charges were made.

the cells after What keeps you awake at night?


Not much. Given that I’m up and
climbing the walls active most mornings around

of the Russian 5am, I’ve had enough of everything


DEAN CHALKLEY

by 9pm.
embassy while What happens when we die?
tripping on LSD We make space for others.

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 13


ONE STEP
AWAY FROM
SPECTACULAR
A world away from ordinary

From the chalk hills of Dover to Scotland’s


windswept Shetland Islands, there’s a
wealth of nature, culture and history to be
discovered right on your doorstep.

Our expedition cruises allow you to really


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CUTTINGS
‘I spent thousands
of dollars on seeds’
Duane Hansen in
his pumpkin patch

On 27 August this year, right after


my 60th birthday, we set out early for
the Missouri River with Berta strapped
to a mattress on the back of a truck.
I had a canoe paddle and was wearing
a lifejacket. Berta was eased into the
river and I carefully climbed in. It was
like sitting in a giant, hollowed-out
cork – every move I made caused Berta
to tilt, so I had to lean the other way to
get her back on an even keel.
My main task was to keep the
pumpkin upright, steady on the bends
and away from obstacles. There are
markers every mile along the river, so
it was easy for the crew of the rescue
boat following me – my wife, Allyson,
my sister Yvonne and my son Colton –
to keep track of how far I’d gone.
Much of the trip passed
uneventfully, but there were
occasional hazards – an unexpected
rock, a sandbar that I almost became
trapped on and passing boats. I think
some boats had come out looking for
me as word started to get around, and
I just had to stay calm and ride out the
waves they made. I passed campers
who would say hello. One guy shouted,
“I’ve been living here a long time, and

Experience
I’ve never seen anyone float by in
a pumpkin before!”
It took me more than seven hours
to reach the 25.5-mile point. There

I paddled a giant pumpkin down were whoops from the rescue boat as
I confirmed the distance on my
phone’s GPS. I’d already decided to

a river for 11 hours keep going as far as Nebraska City if


I could – another 12 miles downstream.
That last stretch was the toughest
– I was starting to tire and there were
As told to Chris Broughton spells of unexpected rain. But four
hours later I saw the marina up ahead,
where a cheering crowd was waiting
to greet me. As I paddled up, I was

I
’ve always had a knack for a few weeks, Charity’s 15.09-mile record was a tough call, but I wanted her to be handed a very welcome beer.
growing big fruit and was beaten by a man in Minnesota who big enough for me to fit inside, but still I’m waiting to hear if my near
vegetables, and my tomatoes, completed a 25.5-mile voyage. If there’s reasonably snug – I knew it was going 38-mile voyage is an official record.
squashes and peppers one thing I’ve never lacked, it’s to be cold when I was out on the river. Meanwhile, Berta has been consigned
regularly win prizes at the optimism, and I decided that with the First, I had to test Berta on water. to my compost heap. Every time I go
Otoe County Fair near my right pumpkin, I could do better. Using a forklift, I lowered her into a by there I see parts of her and say hi.
home in Syracuse, Nebraska. I spent thousands of dollars on pond to see how she was going to float, I kept all her seeds, of course.
The one thing I struggled with was mega-pumpkin seeds. After a few marked the water level and then cut her My knees ached for days after the
pumpkins. For the first few years, years, I was regularly turning out open with an electric handsaw. I didn’t trip and at first I swore my pumpkin-
mine never quite took off. Gradually, specimens of 400lb (181kg) or more – scoop out as much as you might think paddling days were over. My daughter
I started to get more impressive I’d give them to neighbours for – a couple of five-gallon buckets’ worth. Morgan has different ideas, though.
results. But it wasn’t until I attended Halloween. But the pumpkins that had Her sides were 10in thick in places. She wants me to grow a pumpkin big
a pumpkin-growing seminar six years won the river-paddling records were enough for the two of us to paddle
ago in Portland, Oregon, that my more than twice that size. down the river together, so that’s what
interest developed into an obsession. This year I noticed one particular I’m working on now. I reckon it’ll need
I got talking to a woman called specimen of the Atlantic Giant variety I had to keep the to weigh about a ton. Can I do it?
Charity who held the world record for
the longest river journey by pumpkin
was overtaking the others. My wife
called her Berta, and we watched with
pumpkin upright, I think so. Like I said, I’m an optimist.
Duane Hansen
boat. I’d never heard of anyone paddling
in a pumpkin before, but once the idea
excitement over the next few weeks as
Berta put on 12 to 15lb a day. I finally
steady on bends and Do you have an experience to share?
was in my head, I had to try it. Within cut her off when she reached 846lb. It away from obstacles Email experience@theguardian.com

Portrait: Kathy Plunkett The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 15


‘When your wife dies,
It’s a very fertile,
creative, raw, open
time, as well as being
difficult and sad’

They were the golden couple of British acting. But Helen McCrory’s death last
year left her husband, Damian Lewis, shattered with grief. He talks about finding
a new creative energy, making music – and why he’s having a mini midlife crisis

Interview by Simon Hattenstone


This is Wales.

Inspiring adventures, all year round.


visitwales.com

Carew Castle, Pembrokeshire


T
HE ENTRANCE to the a new life, one that includes a surprise career change. simplistic to put it like that, but I, erm, I am being a
private members’ club is so We’re here to talk about the new drama, but as with musician. Now. As well as being an actor,” he says, like
unobtrusive it is barely so many men, his first language is football. Barely have a stage-shy X Factor contestant. “So I suppose, to
visible. I walk up the back I sat down and he’s chatting footie. Lewis, 51, is still a answer your question, I could have been a musician.
stairs to a well-disguised keen and talented player, who takes part regularly in And I’ve ended up trying to be one. I’ve no idea whether
roof terrace. A member of Soccer Aid matches on behalf of Unicef. He tells me he I’ll be a good musician.”
staff seems to know why recently played with Cafu, Brazil’s most capped male Lewis looks wonderful. Great head of marmalade-
I’m here, and shows me to player, who is a year older than Lewis. “He’s kept coloured hair, James Bond handsome and stylishly
a discreet table with barely himself in shape. He’s my age, charging around that dressed. One item of clothing stands out. What looks
a word. Damian Lewis is pitch.” He asks me who I support. Manchester City, I like a towelling waistcoat underneath his jacket turns
sitting there alone, tucking say. And now he’s started on the phenomenal goal out to be a T-shirt. Can he describe it? “It’s one of those
into a plate of sea bass. machine Erling Haaland. “He’s like a CGI construct. He weird T-shirts you can’t wear on a hot summer day. You
“Sorry, I couldn’t wait,” he could be out of Jurassic Park. He’s got an incredible just sit there dripping in sweat cos it’s a terrycloth
says, looking up. “I was physical form.” It’s so much easier than dealing with thingummybob like those T-shirts that our dads wore
starving.” We move on to the stuff of life. But that’s not what we’re here for. in the 70s that are now back and cool. It’s probably a bit
the veranda – an even more I ask why he chose to meet at the club, attached to a self-conscious of me that I’m wearing this,” he says
private spot. I half expect music venue called Koko (formerly the Camden Palace). apologetically. “It’s from a website called Phix. Now
him to show me a secret He tells me he is a member – great bands play here, Phix claims to be making rock’n’roll clothing, so what
code, tell me to consign it the food’s superb and it’s close to home. Suddenly he you’ve caught me doing is creating someone else. Like
to memory, and walk away. looks self-conscious. “I have an awkward relationship a construct.” Is this the new you? He smiles. “It’s a bit
It feels like a scene from a with clubs,” he says. “I join them and then I’m not sure sad, but it’s really warm and snug. I was actually looking
spy novel. that I should go to them.” Why? “You immediately at the website for gig clothing – what to wear on stage,
Lewis has the urbane affiliate yourself with everyone in there and I may not not on a terrace with you on a Thursday afternoon.”
ease of a man to the establishment born – a diplomat, want to do that.” He returns to the subject of members’ clubs and why
say, or an MI6 agent. In his latest drama, A Spy Among When Lewis was young, he did a lot of busking. I he feels uneasy about joining one. “You worry about
Friends, based on the Ben Macintyre novel, he plays ask if he could have made a career of it. And now the being seen to be like the other people in the thing you’ve
the latter. The story is based on the real relationship man who was talking fluent football a moment ago is joined. That’s always my concern. I get up in the
between double agent Kim Philby (played by Guy mumbling diffidently. “Erm … well … do you know morning, put on a nice shirt, think: ‘That’s all right,
Pearce) and MI6 operative Nicholas Elliott (Lewis), what I’ve done recently?” I’ve heard he’s making an I’ve still got it, that’s OK.’ Walk down the road feeling
the friend tasked with extracting a confession from album of songs inspired by McCrory. “Well, yeah, it’s fairly respectable, semi-fashionable.” He snorts with
him. This gripping miniseries is his fi rst role since derision. “You walk into one of these clubs and you look
the death of his wife, Helen McCrory, last year. In like every other guy in there.” And now he roars with
that  time, Lewis admits, his life has been given a With Helen McCrory in laughter. What, the men are as good-looking as you?
thorough shaking. 2020: ‘Helen was ill for “Better-looking,” he says. “Better-looking. There’s a
It feels as if I’m meeting a man putting himself four years. You’re in a whole milieu of people who have just totally bought
back together, and not quite sure how all the parts state of semi-grief while into a lifestyle, and now I look like a guy who’s bought
fit. He is still reeling from grief, while also embracing the person is still alive’ his clothes out of the same colour supplement and I
don’t subscribe to any magazines!”
Blimey, there’s a lot to unpick here. How long have you
been feeling like this, I ask? “Oh, about a week!” he says.

DAMIAN LEWIS AND HELEN MCCRORY were one of


Britain’s most feted acting couples. He made his name
playing Major Richard Winters in the US second world
war TV series Band of Brothers, created by Steven
Spielberg and Tom Hanks. Perhaps he is best known as
the former US marine and prisoner of war Nicholas
Brody in the espionage thriller Homeland. Lewis seems
to have two identities as an actor – in American dramas,
he often plays macho military types. In British dramas,
he tends to be cast in privileged establishment roles,
of which the most obviously privileged is Henry VIII
in the TV adaptation of Hilary Mantel’s Wolf Hall. Lewis
is fabulous as the terrifying yet needy man-baby
monarch. As for McCrory, she was simply one of the
PREVIOUS PAGES: TOMO BREJC/TRUNK ARCHIVE. THIS PAGE: DAVE BENET T/GET T Y IMAGES

greatest actors of her generation on stage (The Seagull,


Medea, The Deep Blue Sea) and screen (The Queen,
Peaky Blinders, Harry Potter). They had been married
nearly 14 years when she died in April 2021, aged 52.
Lewis grew up in St John’s Wood, a well-to-do area
of London. His father was an insurance broker with
Lloyd’s. His maternal grandfather was lord mayor of
London, and down the generations on his mother’s side
there is an impressive lineage of aristocrats,
philanthropists, shipbuilders and a doctor to the royal
family. Lewis was sent to boarding school aged eight,
and went on to Eton, the country’s most famous private
school. There, he studied drama and learned to play
classical guitar. By the age of 16, he had decided he wanted
to become an actor and went on to graduate from the
prestigious Guildhall School of Music and Drama.
In the summer months, he would travel around
Europe singing and playing guitar on the streets. “I was
a professional busker in my early 20s. I had a motorbike,
a tent with a hole in it, and I went around the south of
France playing market towns, then a bit
of Spain. I loved it.” Did he make good
money? “Yeah, 20 to 30 quid an hour.

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 19


Everybody’s on holiday and they’d just chuck in 10 Clockwise from below:
francs.” That’s better than Equity rates, I say. “Certainly Lewis in Band of Brothers
is. Certainly is, sir. Certainly is.” He sounds every inch in 2001; in Homeland in
the Old Etonian. After he joined the Royal Shakespeare 2011; and with Guy Pearce
Company in 1997, acting took precedence. He continued in new thriller A Spy
playing music, but just for fun. Often at the end of shoots Among Friends
an impromptu band would be formed for the wrap party,
and Lewis would invariably be part of it.
It was a couple of years ago that he started to
reconsider his career, he says. “I had always identified
as an actor, and that was consolidated by being married
to Helen. We felt very much like an acting couple. Life
takes you down paths, and I wasn’t resistant to that
path because I loved what I was doing. But in lockdown
we all sat around thinking, didn’t we?” He looks at
me. “Did you? Did you do some thinking in lockdown?
‘Am I going to keep writing profiles on people I’m not
really that interested in, or am I going to join the
Labour party?’” It’s a strange thing to say – assuming
both that I dislike my job, and that I would want to
work for Labour. No, I say, but tell me about your
moment of revelation.
Actually, he says, the project had its genesis the best
part of a decade ago when he sang a couple of songs on
a Radio 2 show. One of his fellow guests was the singer
and broadcaster Cerys Matthews, whose husband,
producer Steve Abbott, was impressed with Lewis’s
performance. Abbott suggested that he and Lewis record
some songs, but then Lewis spent the next five years
playing hedge-fund manager Bobby Axelrod in the
American drama series Billions. A couple of years ago,
with McCrory seriously ill, Lewis asked to be written
out of the sixth series so he could be with his family.
That was when he reconsidered Abbott’s proposal.
“Cut to lockdown and I’m noodling on my guitar
again and I’m thinking: ‘I would like to pursue that.’
So I called Steve and he said: ‘Can I introduce you to
someone I think is the best young jazz musician in the
country, called Giacomo Smith?’ and I said: ‘Absolutely.’”
Initially they worked on covers, then Smith suggested
they write songs together. Lewis had never written a
song in his life. “I started writing and found out there it won’t fully understand, but I think anybody who has of their mother”. Lewis wrote that McCrory told them:
was lots that I actually did want to write, and before been through it will.” “I want Daddy to have girlfriends, lots of them, you
we knew it we had a record’s worth of songs. We’ve McCrory’s death came as a shock to the public. She must all love again, love isn’t possessive, but you know,
ended up with a rootsy, jazzy, rock’n’rolly, singer- had hidden her illness. In lockdown, she appeared with Damian, try at least to get though the funeral without
songwritery-type album. If that doesn’t put you off, Lewis on TV, cheering up the country and raising money snogging someone.”
nothing will.” He grins. “But it’s been really good fun. for the NHS. After her death, he wrote a lovely tribute
Really good fun.” to her in the Times. It was as funny as it was moving. TODAY, LEWIS TELLS ME that he felt wiped out after
Has the album got a title yet? “Yes. Mission Creep.” He talked about her great qualities, and the advice she her death as everything caught up with him. “For four
L ANDMARK MEDIA/AL AMY; HBO/20TH CENTURY FOX/DREAM WORKS/SHUT TERSTOCK; SONY PICTURES TELEVISION

I tell him I’m never sure what “mission creep” means. left for him and their two children (Manon, now 16, and or five months, you’re physically drained. Helen was
“Mission creep is when you go to war and you invade Gulliver, 14). He started the piece: “As I sit down to write ill for four and a half years. They say that the first day
one country, and before you know it you’ve invaded this, I can hear Helen shouting from the bed: ‘Keep it of diagnosis of an illness that could be terminal is
another. You allow your mission to spread and go short, Damian, it’s not about you.’” He said he had never your first day of grief. You are in a state of semi-grief
where you shouldn’t.” Why that title? Another smile. known anybody who so consciously spread happiness while the person is still alive because there is always
“Are you a mission creep?” he asks himself. “Or is it a or enjoyed life as much as his wife did; that his children the sense that something might go wrong at any
mission creep? Or ‘That mission creep.’” So is there a had “the fearlessness, wit, curiosity, talent and beauty point. There’s a hyper-alertness and you are incredibly
hint of self-loathing in the title? “No, not particularly. present and charged at all times. You’re on a sort of
Not particularly.” war footing. You’ve got something to deal with that
But he admits he is wary of overselling himself. gives you great focus. Everything is going into getting
“There’s nothing more annoying than an actor who that person better.”
thinks he’s Bruce Springsteen. By the way, I don’t think Later on, was he on a war footing to make sure the
I’m Bruce Springsteen. This is a mini midlife crisis, but
it’s not a full-blown midlife crisis.” If anybody is entitled
to a bit of a midlife crisis, surely it’s Lewis.
‘There’s nothing end of her life was as good as possible? “Yes, yes, yes –
until the moment of death you’re fully engaged in living
the best possible life that can be lived for the person
Had he discussed his ambition to be a musician with
McCrory? “Yes, she knew I was talking to Steve and
worse than an actor dying, and for you as a family and for the children. And
it takes an enormous amount of energy. So the collapse
meeting with Giacomo.” Did he tell her he was really
going to go for it? “At that point, it hadn’t formulated
that much in my mind.” I ask whether the change in
thinking he’s Bruce in death, the exhaustion, comes with that.”
I’m thinking about what he said about death being
a fertile period. Can he expand on that? “Well, death is
direction is to do with McCrory’s death? “Not
consciously, but it’s inevitable there’s change. When
Springsteen. This oddly ecstatic. Along with birth, it’s the ultimate act of
life, and it brings this enormous energy to it. And you
you’ve been married to someone and they die
prematurely, you’re left careering in a different
direction. And that throws up … ” He speaks slowly,
is a mini midlife carry that energy around with you. However deep and
profound your sadness, a new beginning always has
an energy to it. And it is a new beginning when your
stops and starts again, making sure he gets his words
right. “It’s a very fertile, very creative, raw, open time,
crisis, but not wife dies and you’re left on your own. Life has changed.
So there is an energy in that.”
as well as being flattening and difficult and sad. It’s all
those things at once. Anybody who hasn’t been through a full-blown one’ The way he discusses death and grief
is admirably honest. Has he written

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 2 1


about this in any of the songs? “No. People will, you Clockwise from below:
know … they’ll fi nd in the songs what they want to playing for England in
find in them.” a Soccer Aid match; with
In recent weeks, just after he announced the new his children, Gulliver and
album, he has been pictured with the Kills singer Alison Manon, in 2018; and on
Mosshart in London and New York. stage at the Wilderness
I ask if he would like a drink. “I want to drink more festival in August
coffee.” Does he fancy an alcoholic drink? “No, I can’t
drink alcohol today. My daughter is 16 today. Sweet 16.
We’ve got a little surprise dinner for her tonight.” How
have the kids been? “Amazing. They’re incredible.
That’s all I’m going to say about them.” He says he thinks
he has said enough about Helen and the family.
I tell him how much I like A Spy Among Friends. We
talk about how the top British private schools proved
such a fertile recruiting ground for not only spies but
double agents – of the Cambridge spy ring, Philby went
to Westminster, Anthony Blunt to Marlborough, Donald
Maclean to Gresham’s and Guy Burgess to Eton. Was
Lewis ever approached to be a spook? “No,” he says.
Were any of his contemporaries at Eton spies? “Rory
Stewart?” Has Stewart ever admitted to it? “No, I’m
only guessing.” (Stewart has always denied being a spy,
but says that if he had been, he would not be able to
confirm it.)
Later, I talk to Alex Cary, Lewis’s good friend and
collaborator, who wrote and produced A Spy Among
Friends (and was also a producer and writer on
Homeland). Cary describes Lewis as “cocky and funny,
but also quite humble”. That’s an unusual mix, I say.
“Yeah, I’m the same. I was always the guy at school who
wanted to be at the back of the class making jokes. But
I was always careful that I didn’t want to hurt people,
and I think he’s like that. He likes to be the class clown,
but he also has a deeper understanding of people’s
feelings. He’s a very kind person. And he also likes to
piss about.”
Cary says that the more they explored the story of
Philby and Elliott, the more personal it became to them.
“It’s about our people, posh white men, and how they’ve
endangered the country. And that’s what makes it
timely. How their friendships, their clubbiness, have a successful school can be very bonding. I was always the only way we’ll get a broad representation of
endangered the country. ” Like Philby, Cary went to encouraged to be on teams at sport; I got a lot from that. everything we are.”
Westminster. “The two characters cared more about Would I send my son to Eton? I might.” In the event, he This is hardly a problem confined to the arts, he says.
themselves and their club and way of life than the didn’t. “It wasn’t the right thing for my son,” he says “It’s true of any self-employed business. How long can
country itself.” now. “We just decided what was best for him.” you keep it going before you need to make money?
Perhaps this explains Lewis’s ambivalence about Does he worry about the dearth of social mobility in Obviously if there’s independent wealth attached to
clubs. Eton is, after all, one of the world’s most elite the acting profession? So many successful actors come young artists or their famil ies, then they can be
clubs. “Damian and I have sat in the pub and discussed from privileged backgrounds, while the less well-off supported through the bleak first five or six years, and
the benefits of going to Eton and Westminster. You have struggle to pay their way through college – if they can then they could meet with great success in years seven
access to certain things, and there is a comfort zone get there in the first place. Lewis says the most important and eight. A pattern might emerge where people who
you can step back into when shit gets rough.” How does thing to focus on is where today’s writers come from. don’t have that independent money have given up by
Lewis feel about it? “I think he was very grateful for his “It’s about ensuring people from all different years seven and eight, so we’ll never know whether
background. And I feel grateful for mine, but I also feel backgrounds are given the confidence to write, and they would have been successful or not.”
it’s dangerous to allow it to cage you.” that when they don’t meet with immediate success and Lewis likes to talk about politics, but he is less
JIM DYSON/GET T Y IMAGES; DAVE BENET T/WIREIMAGE; LYNNE C AMERON/GET T Y IMAGES

The thing is, Cary says, the people in politics who financial reward, they’re given a second chance. That’s forthcoming than Cary. We are talking before Liz
are now seen as representative of private-school Truss’s resignation, and he makes it clear that he is no
culture weren’t seen as such when they were at school. fan of the system that allows people to become prime
“David Cameron and Boris Johnson and Jacob Rees- minister without a mandate from the country. “It’s
Mogg [all of whom went to Eton], these fucking people really wild what’s going on. Maybe I’m reading the
appear and you go: ‘Wait a minute – when we were at wrong newspapers, but I haven’t seen a proper debate
school with you turds, you didn’t represent us.’ We
can’t go: ‘Well, we’re not one of them,’ because we
clearly are, but we’re embarrassed by them. There’s a
‘The drama about changing our constitution so that a ruling party
should not be able to remove its leader without having
a general election. It really sticks in the craw.”
fashion now that everybody wants to escape from
the posh white man. I think our job is to shine a light
programme at Eton He looks at his phone. It’s time to leave. His parking
space is about to run out, and he’s got to prepare for
on these people.”

BACK AT THE PRIVATE MEMBERS’ CLUB, I ask Lewis


was brilliant. So if Manon’s surprise birthday dinner. On our way out, he
tells me he plans to tour with the album, which will be
released next year. “We’ve got some festivals booked.”
why Eton has produced so many celebrated actors
(Eddie Redmayne, Dominic West, Tom Hiddleston and
you had the talent Which ones? “Well, we’re hoping for Glastonbury and
a couple of others.” Wow, start at the top, I say. “Well,
Hugh Laurie are all alumni). It hasn’t, he says. “As a
percentage of people coming out of Eton, there are
almost no actors. There’s a little clutch of us who did
or inclination, you it will be 11 in the morning in a faraway field, I would
imagine.” He loves what he’s doing, but he’s not getting
ideas above his station, he insists. “I don’t think I’m
well. The drama programme at Eton was brilliant. So
if you had the talent or inclination, you could do drama
could do drama 24/7 suddenly a rock star.” •

24/7 if you wanted to.”


In 2017, he told the Guardian: “The cut and thrust of if you wanted’ A Spy Among Friends starts this autumn on new
streaming service ITVX.

2 2 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


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ONE
LAST
PINT
Squeezed by the pandemic and a
cost of living crisis, pubs in England
and Wales are closing at a rate of 19
every week. Felix Bazalgette raises a
glass to five much-loved drinking
holes whose landlords have
reluctantly decided to call time
2 4 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian
Portraits: Orlando Gili
The last night at the Lillie
Langtry in London, which
closed in September
R OYA L O P E R A H O U S E
‘Punchy Puccini’ ‘An utterly winning revival’
THE TIMES BACHTRACK
T H E R OYA L O P E R A

LA
BOHÈME LIFE IS FRAGILE BUT LOVE IS FOREVER

TICKETS FROM £11

Charles Castronovo as Rodolfo and


ON STAGE
14 OCT—17 NOV 2022
Simona Mihai as Mimì in La bohème,
The Royal Opera © 2020 ROH.
Photographed by Tristram Kenton

BOOK NOW
The smoking area takes over the whole pavement.
Inside everyone shouts and screams along to the
karaoke, clinging to each other on the dancefloor. Every
inch of the bar at the Lillie Langtry pub in Kilburn, north
London, is crowded with fresh drinks as the last-orders
bell rings, for the final time, around 11pm.
“There is nothing,” said Dr Samuel Johnson in 1776,
long before the arrival of karaoke machines, “by which
so much happiness is produced as by a good tavern or
inn.” Unlike being a guest at someone’s house, thought
Johnson, at the pub “there is a general freedom from
anxiety … the more noise you make, the more trouble
you give, the more good things you call for, the welcomer
you are.” The loud, friendly scene at the closing night
of the Lillie Langtry – in which strangers hug, sing,
shout, chat, buy each other drinks and smoke each
other’s cigarettes – suggests his argument still holds.
The Lillie Langtry, which closed its doors in September,
was one of a round 19 pubs lost in England and Wales
every week this year. Many have been fixtures of their
communities for decades, even hundreds of years, and
their last landlords have faced an unprecedentedly
harsh business climate, dealing variously with
gentrification and “regeneration”, a pandemic, rising
food and energy costs, and aggressive behaviour from
commercial landlords and energy companies.
From an exquisitely tiled 19th-century Birmingham
pub to a thriving curry place in Hampshire to this
“rough old boozer” in Kilburn, these are the stories of
five shuttered pubs and the struggles their last landlords
went through to keep them open. The decline of the
great British pub has produced a lot of mournful, almost
nationalistic, reflection over the years. “When you have
lost your inns, drown your empty selves,” lamented
Hilaire Belloc in 1943, “for you will have lost the last of
England.” Yet, despite the relentless closures of recent
decades, the tradition of the pub has proved remarkably
elastic and durable, happily absorbing any number of
cultures and identities that fall outside the traditional
picture of Englishness Belloc eulogised in the 40s. In
an overall grim environment, this endless adaptability,
driven by enterprising and creative landlords like the
ones profiled here, means there’s hope for the pub yet.

‘You can’t just suddenly increase a £12


curry to £25’
Alex and Shekhar Naiwal, the White Horse Inn,
Droxford, Hampshire (right and below)
Reason for closure: rising costs, dispute with brewery

It’s a busy Thursday evening at the White Horse, its last


under the stewardship of Alex and Shekhar Naiwal.
“We’re like a big, happy family,” Alex says of her
customers. “That’s why it’s a bit heartbreaking for them, to see the changes,” he says. “Word got around locally
as well as for us, to leave this behind.” On Sunday, they’ll that we do good food, and it paid off.”
have to close their doors because of a dispute with their On the night I visit, it is fully booked, with a stream
landlord over rising prices. of takeaway customers dropping in for a pint while they
Alex and Shekhar met in 2007, working on the same pick up their food. Alex and Shekhar rush around with
floor at the House of Fraser department store in London. plates of curry, talking to customers, energetically
After years working for large businesses, and some time pouring pints and mixing drinks. “No one else will ever
living in both Romania, where Alex is from, and India, be able to do what they’ve done with this place,” says
where Shekhar was born, they wanted to try their hand Helen Landy, a Droxford local. “It’s more than a pub, it’s
at running their own place in the UK. In 2014 the chance a community they’ve made here.” The pair have become
came up to take over the White Horse, a Grade II-listed an indispensable part of village life. “My friend moved
village pub near a good school for their two-year-old. to this village six months ago because of this pub,” says
“It needed some TLC,” Alex remembers. “It was really another local, Paul William. “I’m not joking!”
run-down, quite depressing at the start.” They restored Like all pubs, the White Horse suffered during Covid.
the interior, put in comfier seats, put more things on But it is the recent price rises in basic items, caused by
the walls. “The big challenge for me,” Shekhar says, the war in Ukraine, that has made running the pub
“was to keep it as a country pub. Not make it too modern untenable. “Oil, potatoes, tomatoes, chicken, it all just
for people, but just to bring in a bit more comfort.” jumped,” Shekhar says. “The box of chicken I buy used
Before Alex and Shekhar took over, the largely Indian to be about 28 quid – suddenly it was £54.” It’s impossible
team in the kitchen had been cooking standard British to pass these rises on. “You can’t just suddenly increase
pub food – gammon steaks, fish and chips – and working a £12 or £13 curry to £25. People are struggling as well.”
a punishing schedule. Shekhar gave the chefs more Like many pubs, the White Horse
time off and redesigned the menu around a selection is owned by a brewery company, in
of home-cooked Indian curries instead. “People started this case one that owns more than

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 2 7


1,600 pubs around the UK. In the brewery company
system, operators such as Alex and Shekhar don’t simply ‘We used to have music nights –
pay rent to operate a business in the building; they also I would dress up as Freddie Mercury’
have to buy beer from the company at fluctuating prices
set by them, above market rate – this is known as a tied Nick Abraham, the Royal George, Skelton, Yorkshire
tenancy. This year, when Shekhar asked for a reduction (above and left)
in fees to help cushion the blow of the price rises, he Reason for closure: Covid, heating bills, staffing costs
says the company refused and suggested cutting costs
by replacing an experienced chef with an apprentice. On the morning of 8 September, a friend called Nick
Shekhar disagreed: “I know how to run a business.” Abraham to let him know he’d seen a group of men
The kitchen team had been with him from the start and breaking into his pub. “I felt sick,” he remembers. The
the quality of the food was the pub’s unique selling men told him they were there on behalf of E.ON and
point. (The hot konka ni, with tender prawns in a sauce had been sent to remove his gas meter, effectively
of garlic, mustard seed, curry leaf and kokum, supports stopping the supply, because of an unpaid bill. Abraham
his argument.) “This is down to what’s happened to the tried to explain he had an agreement with E.ON to pay
country, not because we are doing something wrong.” the outstanding balance of £122 the next day, but it was
Shekhar was offered a free-of-tie deal, but the terms no use. He realised he wouldn’t be able to open up at
didn’t appeal; both parties decided not to renew their 5pm without gas. “I was in a right state,” Abraham says.
contract and a new tenant has taken over. For the The Royal George was the fi rst pub Abraham had
Naiwals it means moving out of their home and taking ever r un. He took it over 11 years ago, after spotting it
their child, now 10, out of the local school. They’re while driving through Skelton. It was boarded up at the
planning to open a restaurant nearby, but are leaving time. “I just looked at it and thought, ‘That would be a
the pub business. “It’s been very hard, very sad, but lovely little pub.’” He approached the brewery; initially
maybe it’s just a time for change,” Shekhar says. they were sceptical, as many had failed to make the

2 8 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


pub work before and it had been closed for three years.
But after long negotiations, they agreed to let him try.
“I just wanted to bring the community back together,
which we’ve done,” he says. The first years were a great
success, with many in the village becoming regulars.
Abraham even put on music nights, often performing
himself: “Elvis is my favourite, but I’ve also got a
Freddie Mercury outfit.” Every night would sell out.
“We turned all the chairs to face the stage and had big
show curtains bought from another derelict pub. People
really liked it.”
Abraham spent years building up the business,
expanding to run a second pub in the village six years
ago. Soon he moved the music nights there and made
the Royal George a place for food. “It was a cosy country
pub, very homely.” He lived above the pub with his
family: as well as a business, “it was also our home”.
Then Covid arrived. “We were closed for over a year,”
he says. Their second pub had an outside area, so could
trade in a limited way when pandemic restrictions were
relaxed, but the Royal George, known for its food and
lacking outside space, had to remain closed.
Government grants had helped, but “we weren’t open,
so the grants didn’t last long”. When it finally reopened,
“it was very, very quiet”. Staff costs were rising and so
was the rent. Then this year, after the war in Ukraine
began, gas prices rose, too. Government support,
though appreciated, just wasn’t enough.
At the start of September “we got a letter from E.ON to
say we owed £830 for gas” and threatening disconnection.
Abraham managed to negotiate to pay the majority of
the bill straight away, leaving the rest until 9 September,
because he had other bills to cover in the meantime.
The person on the phone told him that would be fine.
The arrival of the bailiffs was a “rude awakening”.
They wouldn’t listen to Abraham’s explanation and
demanded an on-the-spot payment of more than £700
to halt their work; when Abraham refused, they cut out
the meter. To their credit, E.ON acknowledged their
mistake on the phone to Abraham later, sending round
a technician to reconnect the gas, but for him it was too
late. “I was in such a state. I rang the building’s landlord
and said, ‘I can’t go on like this any more.’” He closed
the pub. “It was a gut-wrenching feeling.”
The situation has taken its toll on his relationships
and he’s been prescribed antidepressants. E.ON’s
profits, meanwhile, have surged – it made more than
£3.4bn in the first six months of 2022 alone.
Abraham, who has experience in construction, is
now working to build a kitchen extension at his other
pub, the Duke William, so staff who worked at the Royal
George can continue their jobs there. “We just want to
get stronger if we can,” he says, “and get through this.”

up the spaces and stripping the walls back to the parties unsure of where the fault lay. “It’s like, who’s
‘Running a pub is an original brickwork. “People really responded to it,” to blame?” Fowler remembers.
emotional rollercoaster’ Canton says. “You could see that it was old, beat up, Brixton has changed a lot in recent decades. The
but well looked after.” estate agents Savills estimates that the price of a home
Luke Fowler (on right) and Paul Canton, “We invited a bunch of musicians,” Fowler in Brixton has risen by 76% in the last five years alone.
the Junction, London (above right) remembers, “and it kind of took off.” They established Loughborough Junction is close to central London,
Reason for closure: redevelopment a good food menu, found some decent staff and became making it a highly profitable area for housing. The
a rare space for jazz musicians to perform and jam Junction was both part of and, ultimately, defeated by
“To be honest,” Luke Fowler says, “we just wanted together in front of a friendly audience. Much of the this rapid gentrification, Fowler believes. “We’re two
a place to sell some pints and play some jazz.” In 2015 profit went on paying the musicians. “It was amazing white guys playing jazz,” he says. “I would probably
Fowler and his business partner Paul Canton, both when it was at its best,” Canton says. “The person on say that we’re part of the gentrification.”
musicians, were planning to open a jazz venue in south the next table would just happen to be one of London’s Under planning laws, if the landlord of a property
London. Fowler, with years of experience working in best trumpet players, and they’d get up and rip the hell can prove that a pre-existing hospitality business is not
and managing pubs, convinced Canton that a pub would out of it. It was amazing.” He laughs. “Of course, it viable there, then it can instead be converted into flats.
be more viable than a club, and when a former Bolivian wasn’t always like that. Sometimes the worst trumpet The Junction’s landlord, a company registered in the
restaurant became free in Loughborough Junction, in player in London would get up and play.” Isle of Man called Manlon Properties Ltd, is linked to
Brixton, they decided to invest some money in By 2020 it seemed as if the Junction was hitting Asif A ziz, whom Private Eye calls a “publicity-shy
renovating it and give it a try as a jazz pub. its stride. In retrospect, the impact of the pandemic property magnate”. The magazine has reported on the
“The decor was really strange,” Canton says of was “probably terminal”, Fowler says. It put them pattern of companies linked to A ziz buying pubs in
the large corner site that would become the Junction. into rent arrears with their landlord and made the gentrifying areas of London and converting them into
“Some of it was Hawaiian, other parts looked like the relationship difficult. “We were of the view that the luxury flats at a profit. In 2020 an article in the Times
inside of the Titanic and the rest was the remains landlord didn’t give us a place from which to trade,” he asked if A ziz was “ the meanest
of the Bolivian restaurant. It was so bad it almost says. “And the landlord was of the view that we didn’t landlord in Britain”, because of how
looked good.” They set about renovating it, opening pay the rent, obviously.” The uncertainty left both his tenants had been treated during

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 2 9


the pandemic. When the contract for the premises came say, ‘Hello, have a Guinness, Mary’ and then you feel
up for negotiation in August, Manlon Properties asked like a member of the human race again.”
for terms Fowler and Canton thought were simply O’Brien testifies to the role the pub has played in
unrealistic, given the projected rising costs of energy the community over the decades. At one time known
and staffi ng, and the rent arrears that had built up as County Kilburn, the London neighbourhood saw
during the pandemic. “They were closing it because a huge number of Irish workers settle there in the
they wanted to develop it,” Canton says. “There was mid-20th century. Many of the older regulars, like
no other reason.” O’Brien, remember a time when signs in the windows
While the pandemic might have sealed the fate of of rental properties saying “No dogs, no blacks, no
the Junction, it also, paradoxically, led to some of its Irish” were common throughout London. The pub
best times as a pub. When it reopened after lockdown, has  long provided a place to gather: “We’ve had
“everyone was pretty desperate to get into a live music christenings, weddings, funerals here – the lot,” O’Brien
environment,” Fowler says, “and it just started kicking says. As we speak, a man comes up to hug her.
off. We got some really big guys in the jazz community “Thirty years in this pub,” he says. “You’ve watched
coming down.” me grow up here.”
Do moments like that make running a pub worth it? The pub has cycled through a few different
“It’s an emotional rollercoaster,” Fowler says. “I would landlords and landladies in the last few years. The
say a good 70% of the time you hate the place.” Problems landlady since March, Margaret Percy, has done a
constantly arise: managers can’t find good staff, the good job, but O’Brien remembers the era when Ball
bills are going up, rent has to be negotiated. “But then was the landlady, three years ago, as the best time for
there’s maybe about 20 to 30% of the time where you’re the pub. One day, in the lead-up to Christmas, Ball
like, yeah, this is heavy. Everyone’s having a good time.” knocked on O’Brien’s door and asked her what she
This is how it felt at the closing party. “We drank the was doing on the 25th. “I said, ‘I’ve got nobody, so I’m
bar dry,” he says. “It was wicked.” not doing anything.’” Ball invited her, and 30 other
older people from the area, to Christmas lunch in the
pub. “Michelle’s mum did the turkeys,” O’Brien
‘Our regulars might be at home on remembers, “I did the potatoes, everybody did
their own – they can have a nice time, something. We all chipped in and moved the furniture.
Michelle paid for everything, including wine. How
be safe and forget their worries’ many landladies do that?”
Michelle Ball, the Lillie Langtry, London The party gets bigger and, as 10 o’clock rolls around,
(opening pages and below) none of the promised fighting breaks out; most of those
Reason for closure: regeneration who said they would leave by now, including Ball, are
still enjoying themselves. The karaoke set is out and
“It’s the roughest pub in Kilburn,” says Michelle Ball, the dancefloor is crowded with people of all ages,
a former landlady of the Lillie Langtry, as she pulls a getting low to Tom Cannon’s rendition of Flo Rida’s
pint. Tonight is the closing party for the pub, which has Low. Cannon, in his 70s and a regular on the Kilburn
sat at the base of Emminster tower block in north karaoke circuit, also treats the pub to No Woman, No
London since 1969, and is due to be torn down this year Cry and Valerie. The crowd goes wild.
as part of a regeneration programme. “I’ve been in the game a long time,” Ball says later,
“The Lillie’s always had a bit of a reputation,” Ball as she discusses the demise of the pub in the smoking
says. “It’s an old-school, wet-led boozer.” It’s 7pm and area outside, “and I’ve always wanted to look after that
Ball, like many of the regulars I speak to, says she’s community life. It can be the nicest pub in the nicest
planning to leave the party around 10pm, “before the area, but ultimately it’s about the people and it’s about
fighting starts”. Yet these conversations also reveal a community.” That’s why people use the pub, she
softer side to what some regulars call, with pride, “the observes. “They come because they’re at home on their
naughtiest pub in London”. own, or they might have problems at home, and here
“I can’t speak for everyone,” says Mary O’Brien, who they can have a nice time, forget their worries for a bit
has been coming here since the 70s. “But as an old age and feel safe. That’s why it’s heartbreaking for this place
pensioner who lives alone and gets very lonely, this to go. We’re a working-class community, but everyone
place is like a sanctuary.” Other activities arranged for looks after each other.”
people her age don’t interest her and leave her feeling The Abbey Road Estate regeneration programme,
isolated. “But the minute you walk in this door, they which involves the demolition of both the Emminster
and the adjacent Hinstock blocks, does not have a
place  for the Lillie Langtry. There are  other pubs ‘The drilling for HS2 would make the
nearby but, in the opinion of many locals, they lack pints on the table shake’
the history and cater to a different crowd. As part of
the regeneration plan, roughly a hundred council flats Will Young, the Woodman, Birmingham (right)
will be replaced with 139 new homes, the majority sold Reason for closure: Covid, energy prices, HS2 construction
by Camden council to private buyers. A third of the
new flats will be a mix of council rent and “affordable” It was a pub in central Birmingham called the Wellington
rent – definitions vary but often this is taken to mean that convinced Will Young he might have a future in
that their cost won’t exceed 80% of the normal market hospitality. Unlike the big chain pub he had worked in
rate. This would, in London in 2022, make the flats before, the Wellington “was the kind of place where
unaffordable for most. everything was about the quality of the beer, the quality
Many locals campaigned for the pub to be included of the atmosphere, the ambience.” It was the sort of
in the regeneration plan, but did not succeed. “We got pub where people would come up to shake the barman’s
petitions up, we had a moan with the MPs, all this kind hand at closing time: “They’d say, ‘We’ve had such a
of stuff,” O’Brien says. “But I think once the council great time.’”
make up their mind, it’s made up. And there’s not a Young, who grew up in the city, had fi nished his
thing you can do about it.” She gestures to new flats master’s and was having trouble finding a graduate job.
across the road: “Millionaires’ stuff, most of it not After a bit of time out, he decided to “give working in
used – it’s for investment. If you start thinking about pubs a proper go”. His family were sceptical at fi rst –
communities rather than selfish thoughts of making “You’re not just going to work in pubs,” his grandma
money, maybe it might be great again,” she says of the said – but he had a “romantic” idea of the great British
area where she’s lived for almost half a century. “But pub that he wanted to make a reality.
who am I? Just a silly old woman with one foot in the After working at the Wellington for a while, in 2018
grave and the other on a bar of soap.” the opportunity came for him to manage a pub on the

3 0 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


edge of Digbeth, an ex-industrial area full of trendy ago.” Covid brought the same massive challenges to is now set to finish sometime between 2029 and 2033.
bars and restaurants. Canals run nearby and the pub the Woodman that all pubs across the country were The final straw for the Woodman came in August,
– a beautiful old place called the Woodman, built in facing, but the pub also had its own unique issue, which when Young received a letter from his energy company
1896 out of red brick and terracotta by James and began in 2020 and will continue for many years yet: informing him of the projected rise in the pub’s gas bill
Lister Lea – was close to three universities, meaning High Speed Rail 2. Gradually, the Woodman has become from September. He had a meeting with his two partners
a large pool of potential student customers. The owners surrounded by a vast building site, for the long-delayed and they agreed that, with the margins already as tight
wanted to bring in someone with fresh ideas to run first leg of the HS2 train line, from London Euston to as they were, they were going to have to close.
it; to help attract a younger crowd while still retaining Birmingham Curzon Street. They had a big party in late August to drink the stock
its identity. The construction effectively cut the pub off from dry. A number of different bands – graduates from the
Young spent that summer carefully enacting a plan the rest of the city, severely reducing footfall and Royal Birmingham Conservatoire, who had been with
to tempt in the students when they arrived in September. making for a strange atmosphere inside. Hoardings the pub since the start of their degrees – asked if they
“We didn’t massively change the pub,” he says, “but from the site eventually surrounded the pub right up could come back and play music during the evening.
what we did was change the atmosphere.” Perhaps in to the pavement, while drilling began underground “Really touching and emotional and wonderful last
the past “it used to be a pub that you’d walk into and every day at 7am and didn’t let up until evening. night,” Young says, “but it’s very sad as well.”
not get the warmest of welcomes”, so he tried to make “You’d  see pints on the tables shaking,” Young The Woodman is now empty and Young fears for the
it feel like a place for everyone, and “a bit more vibrant”. remembers, “like it was the Godzilla movie or Jurassic future of the building. Though it is listed, and therefore
He also introduced a student discount and put a few Park or something.” protected from demolition, other historic pubs in the
more craft beers on tap. In 2019 and early 2020, his Business inevitably suffered. Though the building area have quickly gone to ruin after they closed,
changes seemed to be paying off: “We were properly site managers were very communicative, there was no including one, the Eagle & Tun, that caught fire in 2020
hitting our stride, we were an established and successful admission of liability or offer of compensation from and was later knocked down. As for Young, he’s taking
enough pub.” More and more of the students who lived HS2 Ltd. “The effect on us was very draining,” Young some time out while he works out what to do next. The
nearby were becoming regulars. says. “It felt like an endurance test.” The work kept on last few years “have completely taken it out of me,” he
And then? “I don’t know if you remember,” Young being delayed and delayed, adding to the stress. This says. “But my guess is I’ll be back in pubs at some point.
says drily, “but there was a small pandemic a while first phase of HS2, originally meant to complete in 2026, I really do love them.” •

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 31


SAVED
BY
THE
BOOK
From Benjamin Zephaniah on bell hooks to
Leïla Slimani on The Unbearable Lightness
of Being: five writers on their most
transformative reading experiences
Illustrations: R Fresson
Nick Hornby on Emil and the Detectives the money that his mother had provided for the trip – at out a lot and have friends over often. I loved watching
by Erich Kästner great personal cost – has disappeared from the lining of them drink, laugh and dance. I loved eavesdropping
his jacket, where Emil had hidden it. When he arrives on adult conversations that I didn’t totally understand.
I turned 11 in April 1968, which was around the time in Berlin at the wrong station, he falls in with a gang That summer, my mother was reading a book with a
the wheels came off the family car. They were already of kids who help him find the thief. beige cover, decorated with the famous red border of
pretty loose. My father was one of those 1960s men who, But this is a children’s book where everything seems La Nouvelle Revue Française. Its title: The Unbearable
in the pre-digital crossed-line age of phone boxes and real. Real and a little bit sad, despite the familiar form Lightness of Being. She brought it everywhere with her.
busy signals and telegrams in an emergency, managed and Walter Trier’s beautiful, optimistic illustrations. When we went shopping, she’d rest it on her naked
to start a second family without the first one knowing There is no innocent explanation: the thief is a thief. thighs while driving. The unbearable lightness of being?
anything about it. When the truth was revealed (not to The money is felt, by the reader and the characters, as What could that possibly mean? It was an incantation
everyone – it would be another four or five years before a devastating loss. The effect is like a bad dream, where that had a strange effect on me. I asked my mother what
my sister and I discovered that we had half-siblings), each step takes Emil further and further from where it was about. She said: “It’s a very beautiful book but I
that wasn’t the end of the calamity. The First Family, he wants to be. It’s no wonder, really, that a sick boy wouldn’t know how to summarise it.”
or three-quarters of it, had to move house in the new would hallucinate it. One afternoon, my parents went out on a boat trip.
belt-tightening regime, but there was a short period When a writer looks back on their cultural I’ve always had seasickness and I decided to stay home
between houses, maybe a couple of months, that was consumption, you can make an argument that alone. I lay down on the bed, opened the book at random
partly spent in what might have been called a pensione everything that was swallowed up was important and here’s what I read: “He undressed her, during which
if it had been in Italy rather than on the outskirts of and inf luential in some way. But there are some time she was almost inert. When he kissed her, her lips
Maidenhead, and partly spent in the house of a family books that you know are there, at the core of you; did not respond. Then she suddenly noticed she was
friend who already had three children of her own. I have never had to be reminded of Emil and the moist and was appalled. She felt excitement, which was
It was there and then that I got sick, quite badly, Detectives. I think I  still have my original copy – all the greater, given it was despite herself.”
with hepatitis, and I missed a term of school. (It was I certainly own a paperback of Lottie and Lisa with I was physically overwhelmed by this chapter.
this term, I’m guessing, where I missed out on Vanity Hayley Mills on the cover. Why did that children’s book For the fi rst time in my life, literature had provoked
Fair and War and Peace and every other book I should climb above all the others? Maybe the realism? I try a sensual, erotic shock in me. I think I blushed, closed
have read but haven’t.) When I was well enough to eat not to write about things that don’t seem real to me. the book and ran back to my room. That night, and
and drink, I lived off Lucozade and Twiglets. But right Maybe the sense that this was a defi ning moment in during the days that followed, I did not stop thinking
at the beginning of the illness, when I was feverish and a character’s life? Maybe the combination of humour about it. And then, one day, I stole the book. I pretended
a little hallucinatory, I started to become extremely and sadness, a mixture important to me as a writer to be sick and locked myself in my room. I remember it
worried about Emil Tischbein’s missing money and to and a reader? But this is me trying to talk myself into was very hot out. There was sand on the sheets of my
express that worry out loud, several times. making a case for my discovery of Kästner’s lovely bed and notes of music resonated in the air outside.
Emil Tischbein was the hero of Erich Kästner’s great novel as a crucial step on my professional journey. I People were having a party, somewhere.
children’s book Emil and the Detectives. I had read the suspect it provided something much more than that: The story unfolds in Prague at the end of the
book for the fi rst time a couple of years before, and I comfort, distraction and companionship at a time when 1960s. Tomas is a surgeon who divorced 10 years
suspect I had reread it for comfort when I was merely I was struggling badly. And you can’t ask for more from earlier after a brief marriage, the remains of which
feeling under the weather and in bed, before the nasty a book than that. include few memories and a son. He’s a polygamist at
stuff kicked in. Like many people of my generation, I heart who cannot conceive of another emotion than
read a lot when I was a kid, not because I was a swot but erotic friendship. He makes an exception for Tereza,
Leïla Slimani on The Unbearable Lightness
because I loathed and feared being bored. The 1960s a waitress in a brasserie who shows up in his life and
of Being by Milan Kundera
and 70s were boring times for kids: two television attaches herself to him for two weeks by way of a very
channels worth watching, neither of them showing I was 14 years old. It was the summer of 1995 and nasty bout of flu. At night, Tomas holds her hand
anything during the day, no live sport, nothing open at we’d installed ourselves at our house in Kabila, a small to help her fall asleep. He loves her but cannot stop
all on Sundays, no games apart from the board games village on the Mediterranean coast in the north of cheating on her, notably with Sabina, a painter who
that Henry VIII had probably played – Snakes & Ladders Morocco. During the holidays, my parents would go walks around her atelier naked, dressed only in her
and Mouse Trap and so on. I chose to read authors who father’s bowler hat.
had written hundreds of books that were exactly the Their lives are suddenly disrupted by the arrival
same – Captain W E Johns and the Biggles books, Enid of Russian tanks in Prague and the repression that
Blyton with her Fives and Sevens, Anthony Buckeridge ensues. Tomas wonders about the responsibility of
and Jennings, Charles Hamilton’s Billy Bunter, Pamela Czech communists: if they pretend not to see what’s
Lyndon Travers’s Mary Poppins. My mother took us to going on, does that make them innocent? He publishes
the library every Saturday morning, and on finding a an extremely critical article that his superior asks him

FOR THE FIRST


likely candidate for borrowing, I would check the page to renounce. He refuses, so the couple must emigrate
listing the author’s publications. If there weren’t 20 or to Zurich, only to eventually return to Prague. Banned
30 books listed with almost identical titles, I wouldn’t from practising medicine, Tomas becomes a window
bother. I hadn’t heard of Harper Lee, but I’d have needed washer, then truck driver, pursued all the while by the

TIME IN MY
a lot more from her before she could have persuaded Russian police force.
me to take out To Kill a Mockingbird. I would have At the time I fi rst read it, I was living in Morocco
needed her to kill most of the birds in North America under the regime of Hassan II and there was no freedom

LIFE, A BOOK
at a rate of one a year. of expression. My own father would end up in prison,
I don’t know how Emil and the Detectives, or Erich accused of a crime he did not commit. Through the
Kästner, sneaked through. There was a sequel, but magic of literature, I discovered unexpected similarities
only one, and I have discovered only recently, on an between communist Prague and my own country. It

HAD PROVOKED
idle Googling afternoon, that Kästner wasn’t really a was during this period that I discovered my passion
children’s book author at all. He was a satirist and a for central Europe. I read Zweig, Kafka, Márai, Kertész,
poet and a scriptwriter, he was nominated for the Nobel and at 22 I moved to Budapest for a couple of months.

AN EROTIC
six times, he was a German pacifist during the second I have reread this book dozens of times. My copy is
world war and he had his books burned by the Nazis dog-eared and annotated, and I think I’d endure a great
in 1933. Yet he wrote the immortal Emil and another deal of sorrow were I one day to lose it. Certain scenes

SHOCK IN ME
undisputed classic: Lottie and Lisa, which you may have made a lifelong impression on me. It is impossible
know better through one of the two versions of the to sum it up. One could say it’s a novel about love, or the
movie The Parent Trap, starring Hayley Mills and then inability to love, to be at once faithful to another and
Lindsay Lohan. oneself. This story also has a philosophical dimension

LEÏLA
I think one can tell that Emil and the Detectives and each situation provides the narrator with a chance
is a children’s book written by someone who wasn’t a to wonder about the human condition. If we only live
children’s writer most of the time. The plot takes the once, why stubbornly insist on favouring severity?
form of an adventure: Emil’s mother, a widow, sends I don’t know what I really understood at the time.

SLIMANI
him from the provinces to Berlin to stay with his aunt And deep down I tell myself it’s not
and grandmother while she works. He travels on his what matters most. It’s less about
own on the train and falls asleep. When he wakes up, “understanding ” a novel than being

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 3 5


IT WAS
understood by it. It’s a total book and a liberated book books that they loved. I didn’t question what they
in which Kundera invents his own style. This novel brought in; I just took them all.
achieves the most incredible literary fusion, blending I remember there was some Nancy Mitford in there

SUBVERSIVE,
myth, love story, musical score and political reflection. and some Barbara Vine and also Cold Comfort Farm
And it’s this liberty that creates a reading experience by Stella Gibbons. I was baffled by it initially. It’s a
that is at once intellectual and sensual. satire of those “loam and lovechild” books where
My first novel, In the Garden of the Ogre, is a homage everyone is miserable and inbred and fecund, and I

UNEXPECTED,
to Kundera’s work. Adle, the main character, reads The wasn’t familiar with books that satirised. At that point,
Unbearable Lightness of Being and is blown away. I read in just two categories. Mid-century American
When my book was published, I sent a copy to Milan white men, like Joseph Heller, Truman Capote, Ernest

ELEGANT
Kundera. A few weeks later, I received a letter at home. Hemingway, that muscular, confident, statement-y
It contained a drawing of the Czech author and this kind of writing, because my dad belonged to a book
note: “Thank you for your novel. Milan.” club and got sent books like this. And then on the
other hand there were the books that I really loved:

AND COLD,
Jilly Cooper, Judith Krantz. But Cold Comfort Farm
Benjamin Zephaniah on Ain’t I a Woman
didn’t fit into either  category.  It  was subversive
by bell hooks
and  unexpected,  elegant and cold. I normally

AND I 
I came to London in late 1978. I was an angry, really don’t like cold writers, but then I clicked that
political, energetic 21-year-old from Birmingham, underneath the coldness was this twinkle and it
trying to get away from gangsterism and gun culture, just grabbed me.
and wanting to make a name for myself as a poet. I’d Cold Comfort Farm was published in 1932 but set in a

LOVED IT
started speaking poetry from a really young age, five semi-mythical future of 1949, where Mayfair has become
or six. I didn’t call it poetry, I called it playing with a slum. (Just imagine.) Flora Poste’s parents have died
words. I inherited this love of words from my mother, and she is left with only £100 a year to live on, and so her

MARIAN
who was part of the oral tradition. My mother never great-aunt Ada takes her in at the very rural, completely
read a novel, but she spoke many. I was the same. I’d falling apart Cold Comfort Farm. Everyone living
left school at 13 and I could hardly read or write, but I there has these stunted ambitions  and thwarted
could speak novels. romances where everything is always going wrong

KEYES
I’d not long come from Birmingham when I walked until Flora storms in to organise their lives. It’s both
into a cafe and bookshop called Page One Books. They’d absurd and oddly believable. It’s set in one of those
been given a grant from the Arts Council to publish communities where there is nothing to do but make
books from underrepresented communities. I turned your own entertainment and where people argue about
up one day saying, “I’m a poet, can you publish me?” absolutely nothing.
People didn’t understand performance then. They I loved it because it was funny in this very eccentric
would say, “We don’t get rap poetry, we don’t get way and I love a bit of eccentricity, in both a person and
Jamaican poetry, we don’t know what to do with it.” a book. (I like it in my own writing, too.) They wash
I’d had a lot of rejection, but this cooperative said they’d the dishes with something called a clettering stick –
publish me on one condition: I had to join the collective. which is what my husband and I call the scrubbing
I said, all right. It was a bit hippy and alternative. We all brush – and when she first moves to Cold Comfort
ate, lived and worked together – even shared bicycles Farm, Flora hears her cousin talking about stealing
and a car. feathers from the hens to trim dolls’ hats. It was just the
Page One Books had lots of books on politics and bell is also very critical of some of my heroes, like funniest thing I’d ever read. The humour really, really
a massive section of feminist literature. There were a lot James Baldwin, Malcolm X and Martin Luther King. lifted me during this very dark time. It’s not a book
of hardcore feminists in the collective. I once got told And she’s right, these men don’t say much about about love or emotional growth – not like Heartburn
off because I was singing Three Times a Lady. “What’s women. I had read their books, so why didn’t I notice by Nora Ephron, which is another  of my favourite
this lady thing, anyway?” one said. They taught me that they didn’t talk about women? Is it because I am a books and  by a real pal. But Cold Comfort Farm
that a woman being “as good as a man” or “as bad as a man, too, or is it because I’ve put them on a pedestal? showed me how you can construct an unexpected
man” isn’t feminism. That real feminism is liberation I found these men so inspiring but when I read what reality to produce something unexpected and hugely
for men as well as women. bell had written about the women’s organisation in entertaining. I will also reluctantly admit that I am
There is no getting around it, I was raised sexist. the civil rights movement and even how people like quite like Flora  Poste. I am the organiser in my
The things the men around me told me about women my other hero, Angela Davis, were marginalised in the family and they are always joking about me with the
are things I completely disagree with now, but at movement, it really had an effect on me. I realised that clipboard. I like people to arrive on time and things to
the time I thought, all right. These were upstanding the Black Panther movement was sexist. happen when  they  are  meant  to  happen or I  get
men of the community, respected men, who taught I recommend Ain’t I a Woman to everyone. But quite jittery.
me a misogynistic idea of what men think and how I also say, prepare to be challenged. That’s not a bad When I got back to London, I spoke to a couple of the
women are. But something deep inside me thought: this thing. I love being challenged. I’m always happy to say learned older women who had lent me the books. They
can’t be right. My twin sister can’t be less of a human I’ve made mistakes. I’ve read a lot of Indian philosophy, told me there was a sequel to Cold Comfort Farm, but
being than me. What I learned in the collective was so and studied martial arts, and they have taught me to that I shouldn’t read it. And so I never did. I didn’t
essential and so grounding. Forty years later, I’m still strive to get rid of the ego. Whatever you see me doing have much money at the time so I figured if no one
friends with some of them. in the public arena doesn’t come from my education was going to lend it to me, I wasn’t going to buy it. But
The best thing about working in the bookshop was at Oxford or Cambridge or Eton. It comes from my I’m not intrigued by the sequel. I feel like this one’s
that any book I wanted to read, I could read. One day, life experience. It comes from reading bell hooks in quite enough. I reread it every five years or so.
I picked up Ain’t I a Woman by bell hooks. There’d been Page One Books. I had no idea when I fi rst read it that I wanted to
a lot of talk about it in the Black community. One of the write. It wasn’t until I was 30, when my life had totally
things I love about the book is that it doesn’t really begun to shut down, that I wrote Watermelon. And
Marian Keyes on Cold Comfort Farm
have soundbites. bell tells the story of women from the when I came to write, I thought of this book, and how
by Stella Gibbons
17th century right up until 1981 when the book was you have to intrigue people, how you have to pull the
published. The book made me realise something really It was 1990 and I had gone away by myself to Santorini rug from under their feet, and how you have to be
important. Black men have a raw deal. White women for two weeks. I was so disappointed in my life at that funny. There are no layers of bullshit to Cold Comfort
have a raw deal. So a Black woman? Well, think about point – suicidal and drinking alcoholically – and I Farm, and what that taught me is that I don’t care about
the deal that they get. hoped that if I flung myself into a location far away, genre or writing style; the only thing that matters to
When I read it, it challenged me in many ways, and wonderful things would happen. Anyone who goes to me is authenticity. This thing of “persevering” with a
even now, every time I read or listen to it, I learn more. a Greek island on their own for two weeks will surely book – why in the name of God would you persevere?
I listened to it as an audiobook recently, while driving have an adventure, I thought. But I didn’t, and I was Reading  is meant to be a pleasure, an escape from the
on tour, and I had these moments of, oh, I get that bit incredibly lonely. It was long before mobile phones shittiness and the rest of it. I will only read something
now. It’s me growing as a person. bell hooks always and social media. My saving grace was that before that I love. And I will only write something that I love.
said she wrote the book to appeal to people like me, I’d left, I’d asked three women I worked with in an And the best bit is that that only gets easier as you
who weren’t brilliantly educated. architectural association in Bloomsbury to lend me get older.

3 6 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


passionately. And I was one of them. When I was young,
I went through a long phase of reading Russian male
novelists. Interestingly, it was during this time that I
fi rst discovered Orlando. I was 18, and even though
I didn’t understand all of it on first reading, I felt very
much connected to the book and to Woolf.
Orlando is a courageous book, full of chutzpah. It was
published in 1928 and on the front cover it says that it’s
a biography. It isn’t, of course. Woolf is challenging us,
blurring the boundaries right from the very start. The
novel describes the journey of an aristocratic poet who
travels across genders, geography and time, meeting
key figures of literary and cultural history. In order
to understand Orlando, we also need to keep in mind
the big love affair Woolf had with fellow author Vita
Sackville-West. I am bisexual, and this is a n essential
part of me, but one that I always struggled to express
in Turkey. Woolf felt like a kindred spirit and I felt very
much connected to the fluid and pluralistic world that
she constructed.
Another incredibly important detail is that
Orlando comes to Turkey. Constantinople (now
Istanbul) was a very cosmopolitan and diverse
place throughout its complex history, with no fi xed
identity. It feels so sad to me that if this book was
written by a  Turkish  writer it would probably be
attacked, censured or even prosecuted on charges of
“obscenity” in my motherland. Turkey has a long, rich
history, but that doesn’t translate into a strong memory.
We are a society of collective amnesia. Our entire
relationship with the past is full of ruptures. That
void is filled by an ultranationalist perception of
the “glorious past”. In that reading of history, you
don’t speak about pluralism. What was history like
for women? What was history like for minorities?
The story of the empire changes depending on who
is telling the story and who is not allowed to tell it.
Those questions  are never asked, so their reality
turns into untold stories and taboos. If you talk about
them, you are labelled a betrayer. Woolf saw the
importance of that diverse nature of Constantinople,

ORLANDO IS A
Bursa, Anatolia in general … and appreciated it.
Elif Shafak on Orlando by Virginia Woolf
But many Turkish people have never been allowed to
I was an avid reader from an early age, and I started even acknowledge it.

COURAGEOUS
writing little stories for myself, mostly because I was In A Room of One’s Own, there’s an interesting
an only child and I thought life was boring. I lived in argument Woolf explored. It is called “Shakespeare’s
Ankara with my grandmother in a very conservative, sister”, where she asks: if Shakespeare had had a sister
patriarchal and inward-looking neighbourhood, and and she had exactly the same talents, what would her

BOOK,
my mother and I were clearly outsiders. I was born in life be like? Would she be given the same opportunities?
France, and after my parents separated, my mother She would have gone crazy or shot herself or ended
brought me to Turkey. She was a young divorcee with up very lonely. Women, after all, could not live a free

FULL OF
no diploma and no career. Usually, women in such life and write in the Elizabethan era. In 2007, I wrote
situations would immediately marry again. A young a half-memoir called Black Milk where I took Woolf ’s
divorcee is considered a threat. Neighbours would essay and applied it to a famous 16th-century Turkish
suggest suitable husbands to “take care of her”. But poet called Fuzuli who wrote in his native Azerbaijani,

CHUTZPAH.
my grandmother intervened and said that she would as well as Arabic and Persian. What if Fuzuli had had a
raise me so that my mother could go back to university. sister, I asked – what would her life be like? The truth
“Whether she marries again or not, I want my daughter is that she would never be allowed to share or publish

I ASSOCIATE
to make her own choices,” she said. her work. Even if she wrote the most fabulous poems,
My grandmother had been denied a proper she would be consigned to oblivion, because she was
education and she whole heartedly believed in a woman.
women’s education. Her love and compassion changed I associate Orlando with freedom. Virginia Woolf is

IT WITH
our lives. My mum went back to university, learned an amazing writer, but she is also a public intellectual
four languages and eventually entered the foreign and a keen observer of a world changing fast. That
ministry. Thanks to that, we travelled, first to Spain, side of her work is not emphasised enough. She is also

FREEDOM
then to Jordan, and I had a good education. And all fiercely feminist. Unfortunately, in the region where I
of that was possible because at that critical moment come from feminism is often vilified. It is considered a
in time my grandmother supported us. It instilled in western import. I believe feminism is universal and it is
me an understanding of the importance of solidarity needed everywhere. In literature we have the tradition

ELIF
between women. of the flâneur. He strolls around the city and he’s always
Not many people read in Turkey, because reading is male. In Orlando, we see the city through the female
not really encouraged – especially not novels, let alone and male gaze. Putting women at the heart of the public

SHAFAK
novels by women. Books are not necessarily banned, space like this is a clear act of rebellion •
but the authors are demonised, incarcerated, exiled
or prosecuted. Anything you write can offend the This is an extract from What Writers Read, edited by
authorities. It’s also a feminist issue. The number of Pandora Sykes (Bloomsbury, 1 November, £12.99). All
illiterate women is five times higher than the number profits and royalties go to the National Literacy Trust.
of illiterate men. But those who do read literature, do so To order a copy for £11.30, go to guardianbookshop.com.

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 3 7


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Brace yourself, dear reader, for the return of Garth Marenghi: fiction’s titan of terror
Hi Garth! Lovely to meet you [proffers handshake] …
[Abruptly] I think I’ll decide that … Have you washed
your hands?

Yes. Well, probably. No. Anyway, you’re back


with brand new horror book Garth Marenghi’s
TerrorTome. Apparently it’s been 30 years in the
making. How come it took so long?
[Wiping anti-bacterial gel into hands] The nature of
time has been the main issue. Seconds and minutes
quickly form themselves into hours, transmuting by
degrees into days, weeks, months and, ultimately,
years. Before you know it, decades have elapsed. The
essential issue was the ever passing of time between

H
the commencement and conclusion-ment of my task.

After changing horror O R RO R W R I T E R S D O N ’ T


come much more elusive than Would it have been quicker had you bothered to
for ever with his TV series Garth Marenghi, AKA “the
dream weaver”, AKA the
learn how to type with more than two fingers?
Writing balls-to-the-walls horror is extremely
Darkplace, dream weaver “titan of terror”. The author
(who bears an uncanny
physical. Typing with more than two fingers is
counterproductive for any horror writer; you need to
Garth Marenghi disappeared resemblance to comedian concentrate your strength on two fingers alone. I get
Matthew Holness) is best quite hard when I write, so the best way to channel
for two decades. known for his 1980s hospital that energy is by banging – bang, bang, bang. If you

Now he returns with horror “drama mentary” Garth Marenghi’s Darkplace,


starring Marenghi himself and featuring actors also
type with your hands dancing all over the keyboard
[mimes touch-typing], you’re essentially rubbing
a chilling new novel, bearing uncanny resemblances to comedians Richard
Ayoade, Matt Berry and Alice Lowe. Assumed lost for
without release. It’s far more potent to jab.

TerrorTome, and some decades, the series eventually surfaced on Channel 4 in


2004, as a result of the “worst artistic drought in broadcast
What’s your writing process?
Get up, eat, consider the news, reject it (the news,
strong words for pretenders history”. While some incorrectly assumed it was a spoof, not my breakfast), lunch, nap, have a hot chocolate,
for Marenghi the world of horror fiction remains an then I’m hard at it for a solid hour or two before
to his crown (back off, extremely serious business. As of 2006, he had personally either Pointless or Tipping Point.
written 436 horror novels, but since the release of
Richard Osman) Darkplace, we’ve heard next to nothing from the author/ Is your lead character, horror novelist
shaman. Now he’s back with a brand new book, Nick Steen, based on you at all?
TerrorTome – a horror tale in three parts – for which he I’d say I’m less of a deviant than Nick Steen. In one
has been contractually obliged by his publishers to of the stories – TerrorTome is a triumvirate of three
complete a single piece of press, not of his choosing: this mini-stories that form one epic portent – he develops
one. We caught up at a top-secret location (though I can a questionable psychosexual relationship with his
Words: Rich Pelley reveal the No 36 bus went all the way there) to find out typewriter. I’ve only done it once with a typewriter,
Portraits: Simon Webb just how 2022 is about to get a whole lot horrible-er … and that was for research for this book.

4 0 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


‘Typing with more
than two fingers
is counterproductive
for any horror
writer; you need
to concentrate
your strength’

the metal goblet I insist on quaffing from – which is


deceptively deep – and got him to sign there and
then. Give or take another bottle.

Low-budget 80s hospital horror Darkplace only


finally aired in 2004 in the form of documentary/
presentation Garth Marenghi’s Darkplace. Would
Darkplace be easier to get off the ground now?
The term is “dramamentary”. That’s difficult to
answer, because I’m legally bound not to discuss
the show, anyone I worked with, nor – in fact
– anything in my life up to 2009. I don’t think we
could remake Darkplace because, the last I heard,
the tapes had been covered in 300 metric tonnes of
industrial cement by Channel 4. In many ways the
As the self-described “master of the macabre”, current state of the world can be entirely blamed
where do you sit among other horror writers on Darkplace failing to enter the mainstream. Had
such as Stephen King or Clive Barker? more people absorbed its teachings, we would have
I won’t sit between anybody. If it’s the annual horror evolved as a species. But that’s mankind’s problem
convention curry, I am always head of a long, now, not mine.
rectangular table. One year, I wasn’t sat there and
cancelled the entire event. Last year, Richard Osman Horror shows set in the 80s are all the rage now. Do It’s a pretty miserable time to be British. Which
– who was in the area and had been staring in at us you watch Stranger Things with a tinge of jealousy? Darkplace horror plot would you most like to
for 20 minutes through the window – tried to cadge Rage is an apt word here. All I will say is that TV is happen in real life to cheer us all up a bit?
a free pudding, saying he was hoping to segue into broken. And I refuse to mend it twice. 2022 certainly seems like the perfect time for a
horror after conquering cosy crime. I sat him at the hellhole to open beneath us. But if said hellhole were
far end and we all completely ignored him. He left Is there room for comedy in horror? to open up and swallow the entirety of the UK like
two of his three scoops entirely untouched. No. Having said that, horror can create emotions the jaws of some primordial hellbeast emerging from
akin to laughter. When I initially took my horror the Earth’s living core – which is also sentient, by the
Did you come up against any problems show to the Edinburgh festival, people were so way – mankind would certainly need a shaman, or
getting the book out there? terrified that they screamed with laughter. It’s a sha-woman, to plan our ascent back up the hellface.
We had a bit of problem trying to find a publisher, survival instinct: extreme fright either induces Hence: TerrorTome.
mainly because the content is so terrifyingly chronic laughter or the immediate vacating of the
prescient. But my job as a shaman is to evolve bowels. It’s all contingent upon the essential Dean Learner, your publisher, describes you as “the
GROOMING: VICTORIA POL AND

mankind. These are stories that need to be told. So, integrity of one’s sphincter. Orson Welles of horror, and not just because of your
having fired several editors, I got chatting with Ken weight”. How are you keeping in general these days?
Hodder, head of Hodder books, who was sat to my Were the gates of hell opened by Darkplace hospital Still in my prime, thank you for asking. Though we’ve
immediate right at the same horror convention a clever premonition of the current state of the NHS? all put on a bit of weight. One of the main problems
curry, but not level with me, as I was head of a Not the literal gates, no. They were made from wood with remaking Darkplace is we’d have to change the
rectangular table, remember? He’d agreed to read and plastic. But yes, metaphorically they were aspect ratio to fit everyone on screen,
my manuscript in exchange for a free bhuna, but indeed a clever premonition, with the emphasis probably going up to 16:9 or, on a
when the hot towels came I swapped his glass for on clever. particularly fat day, 21:9.

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 41


What happened to the film you were
working on – War of the Wasps?
Sadly, the wasps escaped and got into the salad, then
attacked the entire cast and crew. So, unfortunately
the whole film got pulled, which was a blow to us –
and a sting to the wasps. Heh heh heh.

Many other writers and comedians cite Darkplace


as a massive influence on their work …
Yes, and I will be suing them all.

What do you think is the secret to


Darkplace’s lasting appeal?
Some would cite the script, the acting and the
essential message of Darkplace as the reason for its
longevity. It’s all of those, of course, but Darkplace
was ultimately the result of my brain alone. So I
would say: my brain alone.

What are your tips for getting into the


glamorous showbiz world of horror writing?
If you are fortunate enough to enter my sphere at a
convention, never hand me your own “book” and ask
me to read it. If necessary, I will respond with violence.

Is horror writing a life worth living?


For the third time, I’m a shaman; I have no choice.
But luckily I’m the best at what I do. When I put two
fingers to keys, I evolve mankind. I don’t know what
would happen if you put two fingers to a typewriter.
Can you even hammer hard?

[Mimes touch-typing]. No. I’m clearly a dancer.


There’s your problem. Don’t dance on the
keyboard – pound like a Norse god, which
apparently I am, by the way.
Garth Marenghi’s TerrorTome is out from Hodder
on Thursday.

‘If you are fortunate


enough to enter my
sphere at a convention
never ask me to read
your own book.
If necessary, I will
respond with violence’
What a shocker
(Left) Garth Marenghi;
(below left) the
cast of Darkplace

lever. This resplendent feed roller. Do your fingers


not yearn to hammer hard upon those golden keys?
Do you not hunger for the touch of its jewel-
emblazoned ribbon reverse knob?”
“I’m more interested in its mind,” I said, curious to
see whether or not he understood me. The old man
examined me for a moment.
“Steen …” he said. “Nick Steen … The horror writer?”
“Correct,” I replied. “But you’re not Moses Unique.”
He grinned nervously then, his milky-white orbs
darting from left to right. Hell, I knew him, alright.
But where from?
BUY ME.
That voice again. Whatever it was, wherever it was
coming from, it seemed to be reading my innermost
thoughts.
I did the math. Despite my fame, I knew I’d be unable
to claim ancient antiquities against tax (I’ve tried
several times), meaning I’d need to make my
savings elsewhere. If I ceased all alimony payments
and sent my ex-wife to live in rented accommodation
at her own expense, selling all my daughter’s
non-transportable toys, I might just be able to afford
the ability to commune psychically with its owner, it without dipping into my own money.
allowing him or her (but mainly him) access to And, if this typewriter really was the one I’d been
hitherto unreachable depths of the subconscious seeking, those fortunes would soon be mounting

Type-face mind, freeing the darkest parts of their suppressed


imagination.
even higher. Soon I’d be writing more terrifying
novels than any I’d dared write before. Famed the

An exclusive extract As a best-selling horror writer, I had to have it.


(Also, there was currently 30% off.)
whole world over as the greatest horror writer who’d
ever lived. Then finally, Roz Bloom, my editor at

from TerrorTome Although I was still the hot news in horror, crafting
the darkest, most terrifying novels of supernatural
Clackett Publishing, would realise, once and for all,
that I don’t need an editor.
terror known to civilisation, sizzling on the Was the thing truly magical?
S O I T DI D E X I S T. publishing plate for nigh-on 20 years and counting, I AM INDEED.
I stood alone in the pouring rain, peering in through it wasn’t enough. I had too many ideas. Too many I froze. That voice … That voice in my head …. It was
the window of Uniquities Inc, plus Eels, at a machine tales untold. Too much darkness left untapped. the typewriter’s voice! As unbelievable as it might
supposedly invented by Christopher Latham Sholes BUY ME. seem, the typewriter itself was speaking to me.
in 1867, but constructed, according to the price tag I jumped at the sudden sound and looked around EUREKA.
slung from its golden carriage-return lever, by a me, wondering if the owner had leaned briefly out Then this really was it. After an endless, painstaking
Chinese magician in the latter half of the Tang of his shop doorway. But there was no one there. search of several hours, the hunt was over.
Dynasty. I smiled, shaking my head. A bold claim … Then who’d spoken? “And will you be purchasing?” asked the old man.
Yet true. For my own research had revealed that BUY ME. “I will,” I replied, pulling out my credit card. “But I’ll
Eastern antiquity had achieved, in its long-lost past, I made my way to the door. The interior of the shop need a VAT receipt.”
a level of technological advancement surpassing was dark and gloomy. An old man in a grubby rubber “Oh,” he said, hands fumbling uselessly. “We only
even Currys. apron stood behind a dusty counter on the far side take cash.”
Nick Steen’s the name. Perhaps you’ve heard of me? of the room. He looked familiar. “Then put it on my slate, having first set me up with
Yeah, that’s right. The horror guy. The insanely rich, “Eel?” he asked me, offering up a lidless plastic said slate,” I said, reaching for the typewriter. But
multiple best-selling, dark and dangerous-to-know container clutched in his hand. It was an old ice- somehow it was already there, in my arms.
paperback visionary. That Nick Steen. If not, you cream box half-filled with dirty water, with a “Ouch,” I snapped suddenly, feeling my right index
soon will (in fact, you do now). But maybe not in writhing cluster of slimy snake-fish wriggling finger snag sharply against part of its mechanism.
quite the way you imagine. within. The old man chuckled. “You have just felt, sir, the
I turned down the collar of my charcoal tweed blazer I stared into his cataract-covered eyes. castigating pinch of its dormant ribbon vibrator.”
over my black polo-neck sweater, smoothed back my “I know you from somewhere, old-timer.” I stepped outside, yanked open my car door and
flowing mane of smoky-topaz hair, then removed “I’m Moses Unique,” he rasped, chewing on an eel’s placed the typewriter on the passenger seat. Then
the buff-tinted shades of my chopper-pilot days to head. “I sell … uniquities.” He let the eel slide inside found myself attaching the seatbelt across its front.
get a better look. him, swallowing the creature whole. “Plus eels.” THANKS.
To the casual observer, the typewriter sitting in the “I’m interested in that typewriter you have on “You’re welcome,” I said. Before pulling out, I turned
shop window before me resembled a conventional display in your front window.” to address it.
model. Aside from its gold-plated exterior, the only “This one?” he replied, lifting up a large tea cosy on “Let me make one thing clear,” I said. “Yes, you may
difference appeared to be a set of extra keys the counter to reveal an identical-looking machine. be ancient. You may possess untold powers. But
surrounding the conventional QWERTYs, depicting “So they’re a pair, are they?” I asked. from this moment on, you work for me, capiche?
archaic letterings and runic symbols. These stood “A pair?” he echoed, confused. “This is the only You do my bidding.”
out, I noticed, at insane psycho-geometric angles machine of its kind in existence.” SURE. WHATEVER YOU SAY.
only Carl Sagan and myself could have perceived. I glanced back behind me at the window display. I grinned, pleased we’d reached an early
But if the rumours I’d heard were true, and this A Victorian sex chair now stood in the space where understanding.
was the very typewriter I was seeking, then this the typewriter had been. COWBOY.
CHANNEL 4

contraption also possessed certain powers entirely “An exquisite machine,” the old man continued, his I glanced back for a second, confused, then pulled
its own. For, by some unknown spiritual process, oily hands hovering over the contraption’s keys. out on to the road.
this machine’s creator had supposedly instilled in it “Tang Dynasty, no less. Look at that gleaming return Sucking the blood from my injured finger.

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 4 3


CULTURE PODCASTS

Sounds
frightful

Uncanny The Devil Within:


The Demons
Danny Robins is one of Yorkshire
scary man. And what
makes his podcasts While season one of
even more terrifying this podcast focuses on
is that they are all real the grisly murder and
stories, backed up by suicide of a mother
interviews with the and son in New Jersey,
people who were the second turns its
From a demon- Unexplained freaked out by Something Scary attention to 1970s Dirty John
seemingly paranormal Yorkshire. When a mum
summoning “Sometimes eerie, goings-on. Both What started out as a of five is murdered in The podcast that left
Aleister sometimes strange,
sometimes terrifying”
believers and sceptics
get a chance to speak,
YouTube animation is
now a horror podcast
her own home and her
husband is found naked
Tinder users trembling
remains one of the
Crowley to is the tagline for but when Ken, now in with mysterious-voiced and covered in blood finest examples of
Richard MacLean his 60s, tells Robins hosts Blair Bathory in the town square, frightening true crime.
online dating Smith’s esoteric podcast, about the time he spoke and Steffany Strange it looks as though Debra Newell’s story
horror, if which blurs reality and to the malicious force recounting stories the police have their starts out as a happily-
the unexplained. With that messed with the submitted by their suspect. If the thought ever-after tale of finding
you want narration that is both folders in his student audience. Across more of exorcism keeps you the perfect man online
Halloween unsettling and soothing, digs, it’s clear that some than 200 episodes, awake at night, this before a series of red
MacLean Smith is a man cases are hard to brush they deliver urban podcast will guarantee flags leads to an
scares, there’s a who sounds unmoved off. “Bloody hell, Ken!” legends and ghost tales insomnia. uncomfortable, slow-
podcast for that even as he describes a tote bags and T-shirts with a twist, from burning unravelling.
church burning down are available, spawned a nurse troubled by Events that could at first
with the congregation by Robins’s reaction “screaming, ripping, be dismissed as “all in
Words: Hannah Verdier inside. The podcast to the story. tearing and banging” the mind” spiral into a
reaches its peak with in the small hours of catalogue of disturbing
the story of self-styled her hospital shift to incidents, strangers in
“wickedest man in the possessed pets and a the house and the kind
world” Aleister Crowley portal straight to hell. of behaviour that makes
and his six-month ritual Newell’s children highly
of summoning demons, suspicious. A showdown
which he neglected in a car park cements
to banish afterwards. the terrifying tale.
And, as any horror fan
knows, that’s just
asking for trouble.

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 4 5


CULTURE FILM

A
ustralian director
Jennifer Kent didn’t
costumes began to appear at Pride
events; in 2019, the film’s US distributor
From Nosferatu to through that lens, with both critics
and casual viewers speculating about
set out to make a IFC Films even issued a limited Pride A Nightmare on Elm the unspoken alternative identities

MGM/SPORTSPHOTO/ALLSTAR; AL AMY; NEW WORLD/KOBAL/SHUT TERSTOCK; UNIVERSAL; ICON; AIP/KOBAL; CG CINEMA; REX
queer classic when
she wrote and shot
edition of the film on Blu-ray. “I feel
it’s really quite beautiful, but I still
Street, LGBTQ+ viewers hovering in the films’ shadows.
In promoting his new documentary
The Babadook, a have no idea why,” Kent said of the have long detected a series Queer for Fear, a history of queer
clever, sneakily terrifying independent film’s queer appropriation. “I guess horror cinema currently streaming on
film about a single mother and son he’s an outsider of sorts. It’s funny.”
queer undertone in the chiller-themed platform service
terrorised by a strange supernatural Horror fans can debate among many horror films. Shudder, gay TV writer Bryan Fuller
entity sprung from the pages of a themselves whether The Babadook (creator of the TV series Hannibal)
shabby children’s picture book. indeed falls under the banner of queer Now the genre is argued that an education in the genre
Certainly no critics read it as such as horror cinema: sticklers for genre bringing its gay can begin early in life, with something
the film made its way round the definitions will probably declare it does as innocuous as The Wizard of Oz.
festival circuit in 2014, scooping not. But the film’s trajectory is a perfect subtext to the surface A profoundly frightening film for
acclaim and awards aplenty. example of what an aptly fluid concept children, certainly, and as for its
However, the internet had other “queer horror” can be: one that covers Words: Guy Lodge queerness? Well, just look at it.
ideas. Over the next few years, various films made by queer and straight More searching queer subtext in
wags of Tumblr began to insist that artists alike, on expressly queer horror texts dates back, however,
the film’s eponymous monster – a subjects or intricately coded ones, to the gothic novels of the 19th
towering charcoal-sketched ghoul either intended for queer audiences or century, sometimes not even that
with a stovepipe hat, icepick fi ngers playfully adopted by them. In a sense, subtextually. Irish author Sheridan
and an inordinate number of sharply “queer horror” is a near-tautological Le Fanu’s Carmilla, about a female
rectangular teeth – was in fact a gay term. Virtually all horror cinema Proud scary vampire preying on a young woman,
icon. Gradually, what began as a joke hinges on a fear of the other, the (From left) effectively coined the lesbian
became a meme, and eventually an unknown, any threat to stable society The Haunting, vampirism trope familiar in later
insistent theory: LGBTQ+ fans of – for many an LGBTQ+ person, that’s The Hunger, horror storytelling; long believed to
the film, declaring themselves the same terror with which they’ve High Tension, have been a closeted homosexual,
“babashook”, likened the onscreen been regarded by many an onlooker. The Babadook, Bram Stoker loaded Dracula with
family’s fear of the weird, fangy beast That parallel makes it easy enough Bride of Frankenstein, enough polysexual allusions to keep
to the panic and hostility that often to place a queer reading into many a The Vampire Lovers, academics busy for over a century.
greets the presence of queerness in horror film that ostensibly plays it the original Hellraiser, In 1922, closeted German film-maker
predominantly straight households. straight: everything from The Shining Knife + Heart, FW Murnau squeezed a good number
Sure enough, Babadook images and to The Ring has been scrutinised The Wizard of Oz of them into his unofficial, rampantly

Visibly
desire-fuelled adaptation, Nosferatu. psychiatrist to cure her of vampirism. It routinely linked to homosexuality, sexual identity – see the implicitly
Mary Shelley’s similarly sinuously doesn’t work: chalk up an early victory transgenderism and/or transvestism. queer outcast sisters of the delicious
loaded Frankenstein, meanwhile, against conversion therapy. If this turnaround was in line with teen werewolf tale Ginger Snaps – or
became the source of one of As the Hays Code gradually grew the Aids panic, allyship came from presenting homosexuality as an
Hollywood’s first canonically queer obsolete before its eventual sources both highbrow and low. Tony alluringly dangerous threat, as in
horror films: gay English director abandonment in the late 1960s, Scott’s 1983 vampire glamour spread Alexandre Aja’s thrillingly lurid but
James Whale’s definitive 1931 film-makers got bolder and more The Hunger positively feasted on distinctly sex-negative High Tension.
adaptation is marked by a distinctly literal in their presentation of queer the fluid sexual energy shared by Now, queer perspectives are centred,
queer empathy with Boris Karloff ’s characters in horror. The Haunting Catherine Deneuve, Susan Sarandon by queer film-makers, without shame
socially vilified monster, presented broke new ground in 1963 by making and – who else? – David Bowie. Most or secrecy. Set in the world of gay porn,
as more vulnerably human than the a principal character, Claire Bloom’s unexpectedly, A Nightmare on Elm Yann Gonzalez’s gorgeously grisly
vengeful villagers baying for his blood. intrepid psychic Theodora (shortened Street 2: Freddy’s Revenge two years Knife + Heart is so heavily populated
The imposition of the stringently to Theo), an out lesbian – and not even later made the barest of efforts to hide with queer characters – cavorting,
moralistic, conservative Hays Code on a villain, at that. Alfred Hitchcock’s its homoerotic gaze, while its closeted killing and being killed with equal
studio film-making in 1934, however, Psycho from 1960, on the other hand, gay teen protagonist Jesse (so-called abandon – that they don’t have to
meant directors such as Whale had to set a more prevalent trend with its male scream queen Mark Patton, who symbolise anything in relation to
get a little more subtle in queering up cross-dressing, serial-killing Oedipal would himself later come out as gay) straight society.
the genre. Undeterred, he proceeded case Norman Bates. Psycho’s tone was emerges as a heroic survivor in the Both the recent Netflix phenomenon
with the sequel Bride of Frankenstein, a far cry from the gleefully rampant mould of horror’s traditional Final Fear Street and Halina Reijn’s grimly
in which the doctor’s attempt to create sexuality of a spate of Sapphic vampire Girl. And the leather-wrapped S&M funny slasher comedy Bodies
a wild-haired female mate for his B-movies from the 1970s – including genderqueerness of the demons in Bodies Bodies are built around the
lonesome monster doesn’t exactly Hammer Films’ own Carmilla gay writer-director Clive Barker’s conscientious sexual fluidity of
culminate in blissful union: “She hate adaptation The Vampire Lovers, not Hellraiser (1987) spoke for itself. generation Z: their queer characters are
me, like others,” the poor queer to mention Jesús Franco’s self- This year’s Hellraiser remake, with warmly accepted, even when they are
creature sighs after she rejects his hand explanatory Vampyros Lesbos – and, of transgender actor Jamie Clayton in the executed. Does that mean queer
in friendship. Whale’s studio, Universal, course, the Rocky Horror phenomenon. iconic Pinhead role, brings much of its horror is losing its transgressive edge,
also produced the foundational lesbian As the Aids pandemic raged, more forerunner’s LGBTQ+ subtext plainly or is it simply louder and prouder in
vampire film in Dracula’s Daughter, hostile queer representations became to the surface – comparing the two is challenging mainstream sexual politics?
which somehow skated past the Code widespread: in horror films ranging an object lesson in how much queer If The Babadook has taught us anything,
in its depiction of a glamorous blood- from Wes Craven’s Deadly Blessing horror has transformed in the last it’s that the genre can surprise us – and
sucking countess as happy to seduce to Brian De Palma’s Dressed to Kill few decades. At the turn of the 21st sometimes even its makers – still.
and feed off women as men – perhaps to Jonathan Demme’s The Silence century, we were still dancing around Queer for Fear is streaming now
because at one point she submits to a of the Lambs, serial killing was symbolic representations of outsider on Shudder.

horrified
CULTURE MUSIC

F
Film-maker Eliane Henri set out to chronicle rom the start of their
28-year friendship,
Factor group interweaved R&B, funk
and hip-hop with jazz improvisation,
the day-to-day life of revered jazz trumpeter Eliane Henri knew earning a Grammy nomination in
Roy Hargrove – but didn’t know she would trumpeter Roy Hargrove
was a genius. “I was 17
2004. His 2008 album Earfood
displays the perfect synthesis of his
also be documenting his untimely death when I went to see his sound, playing as a mix of big-band
first show in LA and it was like nothing swing and funk swagger across its 14

‘We captured
I’d experienced before,” Henri says. tracks and ultimately producing a
“Jazz was this old music to me and much-covered, modern jazz standard
listening to it used to be like eating in the track Strasbourg/St Denis.
your vegetables, but here was this His relationship with Henri also
20-year-old guy with a totally fresh, deepened. Whenever he came to LA

lightning’ fully formed sound already. It was like


having Miles Davis walk among us.”
In the years since that debut show
in the early 90s, Hargrove’s star
ascended. Winning two Grammys in
for a show, he would stop by her family
home for a Sunday lunch, or she would
take him to jams once his set was
finished. By the early 2000s, Henri was
working in event management, hiring
1998 and 2002 – the latter with Davis Hargrove to perform at exclusive gigs
collaborator Herbie Hancock – such as Stevie Wonder’s surprise
Hargrove went on to apply his hard- birthday party. Yet he had also begun
swinging sound and ear for intricate to suffer from kidney disease during
arrangements to the spectrum of Black that time. “He became one of my best
American music. He was a founding friends,” Henri says over a video call
member of the experimental music from her LA home. “We really
group the Soulquarians, alongside connected over the music and we got
drummer Questlove, singer D’Angelo closer once he became ill. As the years
Words: Ammar Kalia and rapper Common, while his RH went on, I saw first-hand how he took

4 8 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


‘Making this film “Nothing was planned with Roy
– everything was organic,” Henri
was a grieving says. “I didn’t want it to be a talking
heads piece so it was all about
process. For so long following him. I had to find out from
other musicians where he would jam
I couldn’t look at until 4am and when we shot him in
the raw footage’ Sète, my crew had to wait in the lobby
for six hours before he finally showed
up. But he let us in and what we got
was raw.”
Another unvarnished, unplanned
jazz from being a purist art form to element of the shoot was dealing
breaking down barriers by embracing with Roy’s longtime manager,
hip-hop. You can’t have Black music Larry Clothier, whom Henri captures
history now without including Roy. looming darkly in the background,
He’s one of our greats.” denying the filming of certain sets and
By 2016, Henri had decided to exploding in arguments with her and
take the plunge into documentary Hargrove about the presence of the
film-making and Hargrove was her film crew. Ultimately, Clothier blocked
natural subject. “His story needed to any use of Hargrove’s original
be told but no one was taking it on,” compositions in the final film. H O N E S T P L AY L I S T
she says. “Since I was so close to him,
it increasingly felt like I would have
to.” She asked Hargrove’s permission
“I had no idea that Roy’s manager
was going to be part of the story
but he made himself a character,”
Jo Whiley
and was given a tentative yes,
before spending the next 18 months
Henri says. “At one point I thought
he might have the ability to stop
The radio DJ secretly hates Jimi Hendrix, and
convincing him to allow her full me. It was only Roy who kept us loves disco and music from old westerns. But
access to his life of late-night jams
and endless touring.
filming.” Henri paints a complex
picture of Hargrove and Clothier’s
how did Ned’s Atomic Dustbin change her life?
He relented, and in the summer relationship. While collaborators
of 2018 Henri travelled with him to such as trombonist Frank Lacy claim
Europe to film a set of dates through Clothier was exploitative of his charge,
France and Italy. She shot gorgeous Hargrove refers to his manager as a The first song I “You’re a good, sturdy choose that we will
footage of Hargrove: sitting on his “father figure”. remember hearing girl” takes me back to always lose”, the first line
hotel balcony in Sète, serenading the At the end of the tour, Hargove is I used to watch westerns school. I always felt like from I’ll Sail This Ship
empty night with ballads from his clearly exhausted from juggling dates with my grandfather. He I was the big, sturdy girl Alone by the Beautiful
horn; or shuffling through the streets and kidney dialysis when Henri asks had a record player next on the fringes of every South. Thinking about
of Perugia, smoking and searching for him why he hasn’t had a kidney to a little cocktail bar, friendship group. Now him makes me cry.
gelato, before playing a sweaty, transplant yet. Hargrove responds that with a seven-inch of I see it resonating with
soulful set in a tiny club at midnight. he wouldn’t be able to afford the six Wand’rin’ Star by Lee my daughters. The song that
By late October that same year, the months off work to recover. “I’ll get Marvin from Paint Your changed my life
tour was over and Henri planned a round to it,” he says softly. Wagon on one side and My unpopular When I first heard
homecoming with Hargrove to his What was it like revisiting that I Talk to the Trees by musical opinion Temptation by New
childhood home of Dallas, revisiting footage after Hargrove’s death? Clint Eastwood on the I don’t like Jimi Hendrix. Order at a sixth-form
the high school where he studied with “Making this entire film was a other. Neither could sing, I was asked to present party, it was a revelation
singer Erykah Badu. But on his return grieving process,” Henri says, tearing but both are fantastic. a programme about the that guitar music could
to New York he fell into a coma. up and placing her head in her hands. best guitar licks in the be dance as well. Years
On 2 November he died. “We’re all still heartbroken. For so The first single I bought world ever, and I thought: later, I was on the phone
“He was such a private man and long, I couldn’t look at the raw Jack and Jill by Raydio, “You’ve totally got me to the guy plugging
even though he had been suffering footage, and even now it’s hard for sung by Ray Parker Jr, wrong!” When people New Order’s World in
from kidney disease for the last two me to listen to Roy’s music.” who went on to sing talk about Hendrix, Motion and we got on
decades of his life, he did it with quiet And yet Henri says she was Ghostbusters. There are I just don’t get it. incredibly well. I was
grace,” Henri says. “If I had asked spurred on to finish the film, as funny lines about Jack finally introduced to
him 10 years before to let me film it felt like Hargrove’s final stand. wandering down the hill The song I can no him at a Ned’s Atomic
him, he never would have allowed it, “This is him telling his own story, to get the love he couldn’t longer listen to Dustbin gig. And that’s
but he knew this was his time to tell in his own words.” get from Jill because she A great friend of ours, who I married.
his story. We captured lightning in Despite the lack of his own was neglecting him, Simon Willis – Willy – a
that final year – he was so real compositions in the final cut, the film which is so not of this producer from Radio 1, The song I’d like played
and unguarded.” is filled with footage of Roy playing moment, but very 70s. died of a brain tumour at my funeral
The resulting film, Hargrove, is a with fluidity and feeling, promising last year. He was I’ve got a reputation
COURTESY DOC ’N ROLL FILM FESTIVAL; THEO COHEN

beautiful and often heart-wrenching decades of music to come had his life The best song to get hilarious and obsessed for liking melancholy
meditation on the trumpeter’s creative not been cut short. “He spoke about the party started with music from the 80s. music. Damien Rice or
genius and the ways in which artists what he was going to do next – he You Make Me Feel The last time I saw him, Bon Iver – I love all that.
are exploited by the music industry. wanted to break the barriers of music (Mighty Real) by he kept singing “If you I remember watching the
Henri centres intimate, off-the-cuff and be all encompassing,” Henri says. Sylvester is the ultimate musical Show Boat when
interviews with Hargrove between “The next generation will have to party song. I’m a big fan I was a kid, and being
impressionistic details of his continue that story now and he will of disco. Can’t sing, can’t transfixed by Ol’ Man
performances. Since filming was cut be the bridge to them. He won’t be a dance, but I’ll attempt River by Paul Robeson.
short by his sudden death, this footage footnote – he will have his rightful both when this comes on. The lyric “I’m tired of
is spliced with testimony from his place among the constellations.” living and I’m feared of
collaborators, such as Hancock, Hargrove screens on 6 November at The last song I streamed dying” is going to sound
Questlove and saxophonist Sonny the Barbican, London, as part of the I Do This All the Time pretty epic at a funeral.
Rollins, to build a detailed picture of Doc’n’Roll festival, with a full release by Self Esteem is Jo Whiley is on Radio 2
his hectic lifestyle. date still to be announced. incredible. The line at 7.30pm, Mon to Thur.

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 4 9


CULTURE

Out Gigs
Kendrick Lamar
Tour starts Glasgow, Wed to 16 Nov
Pitched more as an experimental
theatre show than a gig (guests include
PPE-clad “nurses”, a ventriloquist’s
dummy and Helen Mirren), Lamar’s
is unlike any other rap show. Expect
some crowdpleasers woven into the
drama. Michael Cragg
Art
Henry Fuseli
Andrew McCormack Trio Courtauld Gallery, London, to 8 Jan
Tue, London; Fri, Brighton Sensual, slightly depraved drawings
The UK pianist/composer has a and watercolours (above) by the artist
signature flair for lyrical themes that whose painting The Nightmare is on
sound familiar and startling, while the covers of many gothic novels.

Going
as a player he draws inspiration from Fuseli was a friend of William Blake
Cinema Thelonious Monk, Keith Jarrett and
Vijay Iyer, but without cloning
and loved by Mary Wollstonecraft.
These erotic drawings have a graphic

out
Bros anybody. John Fordham brilliance and intensity that makes
Out now you want more of his surreal genius.
Bobby (Billy Eichner) and Aaron Ainadamar

Staying (Luke Macfarlane) are the star-crossed


lovers in this romcom (above) patterned
after the likes of When Harry Met Sally.
Sat to 5 Nov, Theatre Royal, Glasgow
Osvaldo Golijov’s 2003 opera, which
reimagines the life of the Andalucían
The Art of Banksy
Media City, Salford, to 8 Jan
Is Banksy the best artist of our time?

in That both are male is rare in mainstream


romcoms – but the main reason to see
Bros is simply that it’s a good time at
poet and playwright Federico García
Lorca, finally gets its UK stage
premiere. Directed and choreographed
Or the worst? Make up your own
mind in this touring exhibit of his
work that’s already a global hit.
A cultural primer the movies. by Deborah Colker and conducted by However, heed the caution that it
for the week ahead, Triangle of Sadness
Stuart Stratford. Andrew Clements was not created or authorised by the
elusive prankster. An elevation of
whether you’re Out now Confidence Man rebellion into art.
If you watched Titanic and thought Tour starts London, Tue to 25 Nov
putting your feet up it would’ve been great to see more Channelling the ludicrous house Stephen Cripps
or having a knees up ... of the first-class passengers get their anthems of the 90s, Confidence Man’s Turner Contemporary,
comeuppance, this is the comedy second album, Tilt, felt like a nostalgia- Margate, to 8 Jan
for you. Set mostly on a luxury liner hewn burst of joy when it arrived in The life and work of this British
well stocked with nightmarish April. Following their UK TV debut on conceptual artist, who died in 1982
examples of humanity, this lot Later … , the Australian duo (below) aged 29, are recreated through films,
won’t be gliding calmly away in a return to inject some feel-good energy sound recordings, photography and
convenient lifeboat any time soon. into the bleakest of winters. MC his engaging drawings. Influenced
by Jean Tinguely, he set out to create
Barbarian powerful performances and events
Out now that only existed in the moment.
The wisdom of deciding to stay in Can those moments be recaptured?
a rental apartment that has been
double-booked be damned: this is a To Be Read at Dusk
great horror premise – and, in fact, Dickens Museum, London, to 5 Mar
you might find yourself surprised by The Signal-Man by Charles Dickens
how it all plays out in writer-director is the scariest ghost story ever written,
Zach Cregger’s fun and twisty take on while A Christmas Carol is the most
the traditional home invasion horror. heartwarming. This show explores
Dickens’s sceptical fascination with the
The Thing supernatural, from haunted houses to
NICOLE RIVELLI/AP; TATE/TATE IMAGES

(40th Anniversary 4K Restoration) magic tricks. It showcases his ghostly


Out now tales with early copies as well as eerie
A shape-shifting monster is on illustrations. Jonathan Jones
the loose and it could be anyone …
but enough about this year’s prime
ministers. One of the most brilliant
movies of all time, horror or otherwise,
John Carpenter’s seminal monster
movie is an exercise in paranoid
tension. Catherine Bray

5 0 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


Stage
In Albums
Tammy Faye Cakes da Killa – Svengali
Almeida theatre, Out now
London, to 3 Dec A leading figure in the explosion of
Hotly anticipated new queer hip-hop in the early 2010s,
musical about American Rashard Bradshaw (above) returns
evangelist Tammy Faye with this second album. Charting a
and her husband, Jim love affair from inception to implosion,
Bakker. With songs by
Elton John and Scissor
Svengali finds the rapper exploring
that pocket between house and
Brain food
Sisters’ Jake Shears, it hip-hop on tracks like the silken Drugs Storyville:
stars Andrew Rannells Du Jour and the head-knocking W4TN. A Story of Bones
and Katie Brayben and is Tue, 9pm, BBC Four
written by the brilliant Tom Odell – Best Day of My Life This moving,
James Graham. Out now impressionistic film
Miriam Gillinson This speedy follow-up to 2021’s (above) follows an
experimental Monsters finds Odell, environmental officer on
Tartuffe
Birmingham Rep,
Streaming Games now an independent artist, stripping his
ornate pop-rock back to just piano and
the south Atlantic island
of Saint Helena who, on
to 5 Nov The White Lotus Bayonetta 3 vocal. It works a treat on Flying :)) and discovering a mass burial
Molière’s whip-smart Mon, 9pm, Now & Sky Atlantic Out now, the delicate title track, both of which ground of 8,000 formerly
comedy about a chancer Mike White’s deliciously droll Hawaii- Nintendo Switch contrast pretty piano figures with enslaved Africans, seeks
with the gift of the gab set drama was the TV highlight of 2021. Bayonetta is a badass, lyrics that cling desperately to hope. to honour their memory.
has been relocated to Now we’re getting this Sicily-based hypersexualised but
Birmingham by Emmy sequel of sorts (above), with a fresh still paradoxically Fred Again … – Actual Life 3 Object of Sound: The
award-winning writers clutch of spoilt guests played by a empowering witch who (January 1 – September 9 2022) Wonders of Songwriting
Anil Gupta and Richard tantalising new cast (Aubrey Plaza, kills gods with her hair. Out now Podcast
Pinto (Goodness Will Sharpe, Michael Imperioli) – plus Your reaction to this Pop’s go-to producer Fred Gibson Critic Hanif Abdurraqib
Gracious Me). MG original star Jennifer Coolidge, who description will tell you mines his bank of found sound mobile launches an insightful
reprises her role as the mercurial Tanya. everything you need to phone recordings again for this third miniseries on the art of
Tanz know about whether instalment of his diary-like album songcraft. Featuring
Battersea Arts Centre, How Green Was My Valley you should buy it. series. More dance-leaning than parts in-depth discussions
London, Tue to Thur Wed, 10.15pm, BBC Four & iPlayer 1 and 2, Actual Life 3 ushers in big with songwriters Ravyn
FABIO LOVINO/2021 HOME BOX OFFICE; JOSEPH CURR AN AND DOMINIC DE VERE/BBC; SHERVIN L AINEZ; BIJAN SMALL; BBC

A wild-looking ride from This classic drama about a Victorian Call of Duty: emotional crescendos via snatches Lenae, Nick Hakim
Austrian choreographer family reckoning with modernity in Modern Warfare 2 of looped vocals that slowly become and Carly Rae Jepsen,
Florentina Holzinger the Rhondda Valley is airing on the Out now, all platforms healing mantras. Abdurraqib traces the
featuring motorbikes, BBC for the first time since 1976 – There have been so process of turning an idea
acrobatics, naked women prefaced by a new introduction by many Call of Duty games Dragonette – Twennies into a listenable reality.
aged between 20 and 80 its Bafta-winning star Siân Phillips. that you’d be forgiven Out now
and the subversion of all for glazing over at the Now a solo vehicle for singer-songwriter Radical Philosophy
sorts of ideas about Blockbuster prospect of another, Martina Sorbara (below), the Canadian archive
beauty and the female Thur, Netflix but this is a sequel to exponents of elegant synthpop release Online
body. Holzinger’s Yes, there is something mildly one of the best-loved their fifth album. Buoyant lead single To mark the 50th
experimental dance ironic about the streaming giant games this series New Suit defiantly touches on the anniversary of leftwing
theatre makes its UK eulogising the late video rental has ever produced. recent personnel changes, while the philosophical journal
debut after acclaim service – but hopefully that won’t Keza MacDonald glitter-bomb title track acts as a treatise Radical Philosophy, its
on the continent. be the funniest thing about this on pop’s long slog: “The more I get it, entire archive is now
Lyndsey Winship knockabout sitcom from Brooklyn the less I want it”. MC available online. Read
ava
Nine-Nine’s Vanessa Ramos. Foucault’s 70s interviews
Fou
Adam Kay on prisons, Judith
Tour starts Munya Chawawa: Butler on the ethical
Bu
Glasgow, to 14 Nov How to Survive a Dictator duties of resistance,
du
Following the brilliant Thur, 10pm, Channel 4 & All 4 and other intellectual
an
TV adaptation of his 2017 First came a Taskmaster stint, now the heavyweights.
he
memoir This Is Going to British-Zimbabwean comedian has Ammar Kalia
Am
Hurt, the obstetrician- made this experimental documentary
turned-comedian hits about Robert Mugabe – which
the road to tell his own ambitiously combines archive footage,
heartrending story in his sketches and interviews with friends,
own acerbic words – this foes and victims. Rachel Aroesti
time with fresh material Wa more?
Want
taken from his latest For cultural picks direct
book, Undoctored. to your
y inbox, sign up to
Rachel Aroesti the Guide newsletter

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 51


CULTUREE

T H E C U LT U R A L P R E S C R I P T I O N F O R . . .

Getting
stuffed
From music extolling the virtues
of red beets to painted plums
and ‘crack pies’, our critics select
culture to make you salivate

Television Art Film


Chef’s Table White Ceramic Bowl Eat Drink Man
With Peaches and Woman
From “crack pies” in Red and Blue Plums
New York to onion Buns are steamed, pork
pakoda in Bangkok, You almost believe you braised and a single red
Netflix’s culinary hit is could eat this fruit. Fede chilli expertly sliced in
a voyage through the Galizia, a female painter the opening scene of Ang
cuisines, food traditions from late Renaissance Lee’s comedy. Its first
and obsessions of Milan who specialised lines are, fittingly: “Have
chefs across different in still life, gives the you eaten yet?” followed
continents. Each episode peaches not just deep by an argument over how
follows a new chef in sensual colour but a best to cook fish. Zhu is
Music detail; you can meet the Book furry texture that tickles a semi-retired chef and
Ham ‘n’ Eggs “master of umami” Ivan Babette’s Feast the tastebuds, a rounded widower living with
Orkin, whose ramen you massiveness that makes three adult daughters
Between Bonita can taste through the After fleeing the you feel their weight as in Taipei; one plans to
Applebum, Butter and screen, and then jump crackdown on the you pick one up and move out, and is unsure
the Jam, hip-hop titans into the mad world of Paris commune of 1871, take a bite … then try how their father will
A Tribe Called Quest are dough-obsessive Babette ends up as the plums … The handle the news. Food
not shy about paying “mozzarella maven” a servant in a small ancient Greek artist is a source of love and
gastronomic homage. Nancy Silverton. It’s the Norwegian town, in the Zeuxis was said to have intrigue within the
Floating like croutons personal histories that novel by Karen Blixen fooled birds into trying family, often filling
over a languid beat-soup, really make the series writing as Isak Dinesen, to eat his painted fruit. the gaps for things left
Q-Tip and Phife Dawg tie – scenes of innovative serving up austere Galizia rivals him. She unsaid. It is also a
foodie punchlines like and mouth-watering dishes of cod and soup shares this gift with character unto itself in
cherry stems, extolling dishes mixed in with to the puritanical her contemporary a film; there are appetite-
the virtues of candied heartbreaking stories daughters of a local Caravaggio but his fruit whetting shots in a
yams, slim jims and of psychological minister. But when she is always on the edge of home kitchen, a hectic
“nice red beets” as if breakdown, property wins the French lottery, decay, while hers is a restaurant kitchen and
cooking up a big Sunday destruction and the Babette uses the funds virtual happy meal. a bustling banquet hall.
brunch in the deep loss of homes, but also to demonstrate her true Jonathan Jones Lee, who would go on
American south. They inspiring social advocacy artistry. She cooks up a to make Brokeback
might be warning of for undocumented feast for the repressed Mountain and Crouching
SONY; NETFLIX; RONALD GR ANT; THE ARTCHIVES/AL AMY

high cholesterol, but it migrants, women in siblings and their Tiger, Hidden Dragon,
has the opposite effect; the workplace and friends, giving them has said he wanted to
if you’re not raiding conservation efforts. the finest food and wine “make a movie that
the cupboards by its Jason Okundaye known to humanity. makes the audience’s
call-and-response close, But it isn’t just Blixen’s saliva keep growing.”
you’ve got much better descriptions of the food He certainly succeeds.
self-control than us. and drink that give you Rebecca Liu
Jenessa Williams an appetite – it’s the
pride Babette takes in
their creation. Food for
the heart as well as the
stomach. Sam Jordison

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 5 3


CULTURE VISUAL ARTS
John Bates wedding
ensemble, 1966
Bates was best known
in the 60s for designing
Diana Rigg’s outfits for
The Avengers. This is the
wedding ensemble he
made for Marit Allen, then
fashion editor of Vogue.
Drawing on the influence
of 60s sci-fi, with its silver
buttons and shiny trim,
it incorporates an early
usage in clothing of PVC.

I
A V&A Dundee exhibition traces n one sense the story of plastic
is a straightforward cautionary
materiality that we now associate
with plastics,” explains curator Bakelite leaflet, 1930s
the strange history of the miracle tale. What was initially hailed Charlotte Hale. “Materials such as Where previous plastics
had used plant materials
material turned existential threat, as a wonder material that
would solve so many of the
shellac, ivory, tortoise shell and
horn could be subjected to heat and such as cellulose,
and asks if it has a future
AMSTERDAMBAKELITECOLLECTION.COM/© REINDERT GROOT

world’s problems turned out to pressure to make them malleable and Bakelite was the first
© VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON; COURTESY OF

truly synthetic product.

Fantastic
be a potentially existential threat to durable and capable of being shaped
planetary health. But how did one into coveted and luxurious household A market trajectory
thing lead to the other? And is that items.” But with industrialisation from luxury goods to
narrative arc quite as smooth and quite and rising demand came attempts to battlefield weapons to
as depressing as it appears? A new synthetically mimic these properties, household devices lived

plastic? exhibition at the V&A Dundee seeks to


interrogate the history of the material
through its inventors and industries,
designers and advertisers, consumers
and protesters. Perhaps more urgently,
though early scientific advances were
habitually undermined by commercial
failure. Perhaps surprisingly, imitation
ivory billiard balls were one success,
despite early examples having the
up to the company’s
marketing of it as
“the material of a
thousand uses”.

it also asks what is the future of this unfortunate effect of making colliding
now ubiquitous substance. balls sound like a gunshot, laughs Hale,
“Up until the middle of the 19th “prompting bar owners in America to
century, people had looked to the complain that customers were actually
Words: Nicholas Wroe natural world for the sort of drawing their weapons in response”.

5 4 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


The Ocean CleanUp/
Everwave/Sungai Watch
This image is from a video
of the Ocean CleanUp
project “harvesting”
plastic from the sea. The
organisation also works to
intercept plastic in rivers
before it reaches the
ocean. “Both elements are
extremely difficult and
essential,” explains Hale.
“But it becomes a much
more resource-efficient
strategy to clear plastic
before it has broken
down to microplastics.”

Smoker’s cabinet, 1916


Charles Rennie
Mackintosh’s wooden
cabinet was one of the
first pieces of furniture to
utilise plastic as an inlay.
The pieces of yellow
casing are made from a
material called Erinoid,
produced by drying curds
of milk into a powder
that was then combined
with water, heated and
extruded. “It could be
seen as a precursor to
Formica,” explains Hale.
“Unfortunately, the
product was prone to
shrinking, which meant
it wasn’t a viable long-
lasting development.”

The big breakthrough came via became wipe-clean rather than on by clothes designers back on Earth the efforts to control the excesses of
Belgian chemist Leo Baekeland in scrubbable. Radios, lamps, clocks – that marine biologists first published plastic, in particular in eradicating
the early 20th century. His Bakelite and telephones adopted sleek curves articles on plastic particles found single-use products. There are
was light and malleable yet hard and and increasingly vibrant colours. in the sea. sections on repairing and recycling.
strong, was heat resistant, a good Chairs and tables were moulded into Since then, the understanding “Ultimately, plastic has run unchecked
COURTESY OF THE OCEAN CLEANUP/EVERWAVE/SUNGAI WATCH

insulator and could provide an futuristic new shapes and baths and of its environmental impact has only and unregulated for 150 years,”
appealing finish. It was used for basins appeared in colours other than become more alarming. But, as Hale says Hale. “Many good things are
luxury goods in the 1920s and 30s, but white as plastic made its unstoppable points out, the rewards of plastic happening, but it’s only with stringent
during the second world war Bakelite’s progress through the home. are still there, and in many ways regulation – through the entire product
adaptable characteristics were Many of these products would it remains the wonder material it life cycle from concept through
adopted wholesale by the military. become collectors’ items, but their always was. It is integral to modern production, distribution and disposal
With a shortage of natural materials mass accessibility, and the explosion telecommunications and medicine – that real change will come about. We
the same was true of other synthetic of cheaper objects and plastic and so many other essential aspects don’t advocate a zero-plastic strategy.
materials – nylon, polyethylene – and packaging, marked a change: the era of life. Something as simple as light, Instead, we ask when and how plastic
between 1939 and 1945 the production of plastic as something disposable cheap, easily transportable plastic can be used to maximise its incredible
of plastics nearly quadrupled. rather than precious had begun. But tents have saved maybe millions of properties. We need a fundamental
Following the war, huge marketing it was during the next big boom – in lives. And cotton or paper carrier revaluing of plastic in a world in
campaigns, aggressively financed by the 1960s space age when 20 of the 21 bags have significant environmental which there is no silver bullet.”
petrochemical companies, saw these layers of Apollo astronauts’ suits costs attached to them, too. Plastic: Remaking Our World is at
new products and materials adapted were made by chemicals company The exhibition also looks at V&A Dundee from Saturday until
for mass domestic use. Kitchens DuPont, a trend quickly picked up initiatives to clean up the oceans and 5 February.

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 5 5


CULTURE SCREEN

Loosen
up,
won’t
you?
Playing the castrated,
traumatised Theon
Greyjoy in Game of
Thrones took a lot
out of Alfie Allen.
Thankfully his new
role – as a devil-may-care
founder of the SAS
– is a lot more fun

Words: Fiona Sturges

W
hen I first speak
to the actor Alfie
Allen, he is in the
back of a taxi and
winding his way
through country
lanes on the outskirts of Frome in
Somerset. Judging by the startled
look on his face, I’m guessing he has
forgotten all about our interview,
though, talking nine to the dozen,
he is doing his utmost to style it out.
Then, just as he is waxing lyrical
about Somerset – he spent the early
months of lockdown there and loves its
proximity to the Glastonbury festival,
and to his dad, Keith Allen, who lives
in the nearby Cotswolds – the screen
freezes. After shouting that he’ll call
me when he gets to the house,
everything goes dead.
Half an hour later, he’s back and full
of apologies. Parked on a zingy yellow
sofa, and dressed in tracksuit bottoms
and a hoodie, he talks about the hectic
schedule that has seen him zipping back
and forth between the UK and America.
Home is officially London, though his
house is rented out since he is there
so infrequently – “So I’m being a bit
nomadic, which I like.” He says much
of the last year has been spent either

5 6 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


Boy’s own adventure
Allen in SAS Rogue
Heroes (left); and
in Game of Thrones
(below)

visiting his four-year-old daughter, football songs, his father, Keith,


Arrow, who lives with her mother in appeared in films including Comrades
Los Angeles, or working in New York. (as one of the Tolpuddle martyrs) and
Allen – who is 36 but looks about 10 Shallow Grave (largely as a corpse),
years younger – made his Broadway while his mother is Alison Owen, the
debut this April in Martin McDonagh’s Bafta-winning film producer. He says
Hangmen, which is set in an Oldham having your parents in the industry
pub where the landlord is a former “can be a help or a hindrance”, though
executioner. As Mooney, a menacing he doesn’t volunteer which category
stranger who arrives at the pub, Allen his mother and father fall into. Allen
was praised by the New York Times looks tense on the subject of his
for his “convincingly reptilian parents – a result, perhaps, of his sister
performance” and received a Tony Lily’s 2018 memoir, My Thoughts
award nomination. He loved every Exactly, which detailed some
minute of it. To him, theatre feels questionable childcare arrangements
spontaneous in a way that TV rarely is, including nights where the two of
with the added frisson that, if anything them would be left upstairs at the
goes wrong, you just have to keep going. Groucho club while Keith “got
“Plus, it was cool doing it on Broadway smashed in the bar downstairs”. What
because if you missed home, you just Allen will say is that his dad gave him
waited until the evening and you got the best piece of advice about acting he
to spend the night in a British pub.” has ever had: “He told me ‘95% of it is
We’re talking today because he is about rejection and the other 5% is the
starring in a new drama series, SAS fun part’.”
Rogue Heroes, set during the second If he appears uneasy talking about
world war, which tells of the formation his parents, it’s nothing next to his
of the elite regiment that sneaked discomfort when I ask a question about
behind enemy lines and embarked on Lily, who, since taking a break from
daring acts of sabotage. Allen plays one music, is now working as an actor.
of the founder members, John “Jock” Given what she endured at the hands
Lewes, an officer in the Welsh Guards of a hostile and often misogynistic
who is caught between stiff-upper-lip media for the first decade of her career,
professionalism and his frustration I wonder whether she offered him
at military bureaucracy. Written by advice on how to handle being in the
Steven Knight, who wrote Peaky
Blinders, it is ridiculously fun, a
‘I went to dark the show would become. Allen says it
hit home when he was on holiday in
public eye. “Hmm, errr, well,” he
mumbles, nervously tapping the table
Boy’s Own story of recklessness and
derring-do in which explosive set
places to play Thailand after finishing one of the
early seasons. “I was on the beach and
in front of him. “I guess there wasn’t
really a conversation that we had about
pieces unfold to a soundtrack of AC/DC. Theon Greyjoy. this guy came up selling [counterfeit] the pressure of what we do. I mean, I
The series is based on the book by Game of Thrones DVDs and suddenly was there for some of the things that
Ben McIntyre, which Allen read in I came away from recognised me from the show.” she went through and I think she’s
preparation for the role, along with
a book of Lewes’s love letters to his
it feeling alone’ Playing Theon was no picnic. First,
there was the nudity, which happened
always handled that stuff pretty well.
“We live totally separate lives now,
sweetheart Mirren Barford. He says before the advent of intimacy so I don’t really know how she’s
Lewes would declare his love in one coordinators. “I just want to have dealing with the new career path that
letter and follow it up with a second for smoking weed, lying in bed all day a conversation about it beforehand, she’s taken. I enjoy acting and I enjoy
GARETH C AT TERMOLE/CONTOUR/GET T Y; BBC/KUDOS; MA XIMUM FILM / AL AMY

where he would apologise for being too and watching too much TV. Having and it not just be expected,” Allen being in that place of uncertainty, and
emotional. Shooting took place over been depicted as a waster by his sister, reflects. “I’m glad for everyone, boy maybe being in a big TV show for so
three months in Morocco. The cast all in the late 00s he became known as or girl, that it’s approached with a bit long meant that that feeling wasn’t
stayed in a hotel in the oasis town of a party animal who was regularly more sensitivity now.” there for me in the same way.”
Erfoud where, Allen recalls, “you could photographed staggering out of clubs More difficult still was the cruelty That’s not to say he doesn’t get any
look out of your window and see these and around festivals with his friends inflicted on Theon, who was captured, attention when out and about. Three
rolling dunes that would change every Nick Grimshaw, Alexa Chung and his castrated and forced into servitude by years after the end of Game of Thrones,
day”. But the environment was tough then girlfriend Jaime Winstone. Ramsay Bolton (Iwan Rheon). Allen people still approach him wanting to
– near the end of their time there, the At the time he appeared to be spent the third and fourth seasons talk about the series. Rather than
temperature had reached 53C. “That dabbling in acting, with bit parts in playing a man rendered mute with waning, he says the interest is “still
was concerning at times, especially for Atonement and The Other Boleyn Girl. distress and trauma. “I had to do a lot growing as more and more people
those who were out in it all day. But we Now he has a strong body of work under with my body and my eyes and with discover it. And it’s only going to get
all looked after one another. We’d sit his belt that spans comedy (Jojo Rabbit, my grunts,” he says. “I had to go to bigger, which is insane. It’s just
and talk to each other about our How to Build a Girl), sci-fi horror (The dark places to play that character. something that I take on board now,
feelings in the evenings and the next Predator) and thrillers (John Wick, There was this mixture of enjoying it and I’m not ever going to get miserable
day we’d go out and shoot rifles.” Night Teeth). But he is best known for but also coming away from it feeling about it. Thrones will be a part of my
Before becoming an actor, Allen was his role as Theon Greyjoy in Game of quite alone.” life for the rest of my life, and I don’t
known chiefly as the subject of the Thrones, where, unlike many of his cast Allen never trained as an actor, but have a problem with that.”
2006 song Alfie by his older sister, Lily contemporaries, he lasted the full eight grew up among actors and film- SAS Rogue Heroes begins tomorrow at
Allen, in which she admonished him seasons. No one anticipated how huge makers. Along with writing lairy 9pm on BBC One.

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 5 7


E S S AY S , F I C T I O N and N O N F I C T I O N R E V I E W S

Very
British
problems Tackling Brexit, Boris and
his mother’s death during
the pandemic, Jonathan Coe’s
new state of the nation novel
puts Britain on the couch.
By Lisa Allardice
CULTURE BOOKS

B
‘We are a country
A C K I N 2 0 1 7, comic anniversary of the Beatles’ first hit, and of the release
novelist  and chron icler of Dr No (James Bond, in his various incarnations, looms
of Englishness Jonathan large in the new novel) – and also the date of the first
Coe met Liz Truss at a
dinner at the French
that is not driven Monty Python and Last Goon Show, he tells me with
uncharacteristic excitement: “Today is the day! So
embassy. The event was
also attended by Coe’s
go o d f r ie nd K a z uo
by facts and many significant British cultural moments happen on
October the 5th.” He worries that a recent bout of Covid,
or turning 60 – “it’s hard to distinguish the symptoms”
Ishiguro, who had recently
been awarded the Nobel
evidence and – have left him less sharp, but as he rattles off dates and
titles, this seems to be far from the case.
prize for literature. “Books
didn’t seem to be her thing,” he says of the encounter. reason at all, With three novels in four years, Coe is on a roll.
Middle England was a further instalment in his
“We didn’t hit it off, put it like that.” Though we are Benjamin Trotter books, which includes The Rotters’
speaking before she announced she was standing down
as prime minister, Coe tells me he feels more uneasy
but by emotion’ Club and The Closed Circle (he is planning one more).
It was quickly followed by Mr Wilder & Me, about the
now about the state of the UK than he did after the autumn days of director Billy Wilder, which he “banged
Brexit referendum. “I think power has been handed out” in six months, helped along by lockdown. Then
over to a very extreme cabal of people who, on the Bournville arrived “fully formed” with “a pressing
basis of their first few weeks, seem to combine a kind emotional need” to write it as soon as possible, he says.
of ideological extremism with incompetence. That’s “There’s a big element of personal exorcism in the book.”
a pretty worrying combination.” Mary Lamb, the matriarch at the centre of this
From What a Carve Up!, the novel that made Coe’s bittersweet family saga, a PE and music teacher, is
name in 1994, to his prize-winning novel Middle England modelled on his mother Janet. The rest of the family
in 2018, the Tories have often been the target of the are fictional, he says, although the youngest son Peter,
author’s particular brand of political satire and national a musician, is a familiar Coe figure: “passive, slightly
scrutiny. His new novel, Bournville, which takes its title depressed men – often failed writers or composers or
from the village built by Cadbury outside Birmingham both – who show a rather uncommitted sexuality”,
where many of the author’s family lived and worked, as the author himself once observed of his protagonists.
is no exception – except this time it is personal. Structured around seven national occasions, Bournville
The first thing Coe’s mother did when he met her after opens with a prologue at the onset of the pandemic and
lockdown restrictions eased in June 2020 was give him ends with the distressing circumstances of his mother’s
a small Cadbury’s chocolate bar, as she had done every death. He hadn’t set out to include so many royal
day when he got home from school as a boy. They hadn’t landmarks – the coronation, the investiture of Prince
seen each other for three months. It was a fine day so Charles, the royal wedding, Princess Diana’s funeral –
they sat in his mother’s garden, in Bromsgrove where but as he was writing he realised they are often the
she still lived, and chatted about her childhood for a triggers for moments of national coming together. It is,
novel he was thinking of writing. Shortly after he he says, both his most personal and political novel.
returned to London that evening, his mother called to Floppy-haired Boris, who popped up in Middle England,
say she was feeling unwell. Coe’s brother and sister-in- is here, in his early days as a reporter in Brussels, already
law, who lived nearby, went straight round, but were not known only by his first name. As Coe reflects drolly in
allowed to enter the house because of Covid rules. The an author’s note: “Whether he’s a fictional character
paramedics gave her some paracetamol with instructions or not remains hard to determine with any certainty.”
to get something stronger from the pharmacy the next His heart sank slightly when he heard about Ian
day. She died that night of a ruptured aortic aneur ysm McEwan’s new novel Lessons, published in September,
that had been growing near to her heart for years. “I which follows a similar timespan and also offsets
don’t like to think about it, but it wouldn’t have been a personal and historical events. “It just shows that we’re
nice death,” Coe says now. “And she was alone. That very different kinds of writers,” he says now, having
was the horrible thing. It was just a terrible way to end.” read the novel (he considers McEwan to be one of our
We are having coffee in the same restaurant in Earl’s finest writers in terms of style). Bournville is written
Court, near to Coe’s home in west London, where we with Coe’s mix of gentle nostalgia and astute social
met almost two years ago – socially distanced and rather observation, and fans will recognise characters from
chilly in the courtyard garden – to discuss his novel Mr previous novels (nearly all his characters are connected
Wilder & Me, which he had fi nished just before his in some way). If it is less comic than usual, that is hardly
mother’s death. It is easy to discern the quiet grammar- a surprise.
school boy Coe once was (and which he wrote about in He was well into writing by the time the revelations
his autobiographical novel The Rotters’ Club) in the of Partygate began to emerge. “Of course, they don’t
softly spoken novelist, with his silver crop and earnest play by the same rules that we do,” he says. “It’s
manner, whose passions include 1970s sitcoms, shocking, but it’s not really news.” Yet he is still sad and
Hollywood classics, prog rock, jazz and 20th-century angry. Far from the big occasion the family had
French classical music. The day we meet is the 60th envisaged for his mother’s funeral, there were only 12

6 0 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian Cover portrait: Suki Dhanda


The 2005 TV adaptation
of The Rotters’ Club

Then there’s that other uniquely British export that


so many of us grew up on – 007 – who appears throughout
the novel as a tuxedo-clad marker of the changing
decades. Going to see the new Bond film was a family
ritual in the Coe household when he was growing up,
often coinciding with their annual caravan holiday in
Wales. He recalls the audience erupting with cheers
when Bond (Roger Moore; it was 1977) jumped off the
cliff and a parachute opened to reveal a union jack in The
Spy Who Loved Me, a scene which now symbolises for
him our two defining characteristics: “nationalism and
facetiousness”, he says. “A combination of exception-
alism and not taking things seriously. It’s very potent.
And it really appeals to something in the British psyche.”
As with Johnson, Coe wanted to try to understand
the appeal of a man with so many clearly questionable
qualities: “Bond is racist, misogynist, egotistical.” Coe
recently persuaded his two daughters, both in their
early 20s and familiar only with Daniel Craig’s Bond,
to watch For Your Eyes Only. They didn’t get past the
opening credits: “Is this what you used to watch in the
70s?” they asked.
After his recent work sprint, he is ready for “a
breather”, but, as he points out, he may have said that
the last time we met. He did. He is only happy when he
is working on something: “I’m very edgy and difficult
to be around when I’m not writing.” Fortunately, he
or 14 people, all sitting apart, with most of her friends Both Coe’s grandparents worked in the Cadbury has a new outlet for his “creative itchiness”: he
watching on Zoom. “It was a very strange event,” he factory and his mother, like Mary in the novel, spent has teamed up with a jazz orchestra in Italy called
says. “These rules involved a huge sacrifice and people her earliest years in Bournville: “Chocolate is very much the  Artchipel Orchestra to perform pieces he has
paid a massive emotional cost for them. Then to discover bound up with my family history.” During a visit to the composed, with the novelist on the keyboard. “I’m
that the people who’d drawn them up were playing fast factory in the late 90s he was outraged to learn that they playing live in front of an audience for the first time since
and loose with them, it’s unforgivable,” he says in his had difficulty exporting to the EU because “the French the 1980s, which is absolutely terrifying, because I’m
usual measured way. “Those Tory party members who and the Belgians and Italians didn’t consider our not really a very good musician,” he says modestly. He
were saying: ‘Why did we have to get rid of Boris? He chocolate up to scratch”. They didn’t, in fact, regard it is looking forward to performing in Milan in December.
would have been a better leader to take us to the next as chocolate at all: it was “too greasy”, apparently. Years In terms of writing, he thinks “cosy crime is the way
election.’ That’s the reason and it’s a very good reason.” later he was approached by Julie Gavras, a French film to go”. Surprisingly, given its high-profile adopters, such
Johnson’s resignation wasn’t the only major British director and writer, to collaborate on a screenplay about as Richard Osman and Reverend Richard Coles, who
event to occur after the novel had been delivered. “I these so-called “chocolate wars”. are making a tidy killing from this most English of
finished the book in April or May and missed the biggest The film was never made (a romcom about EU trade genres, Coe discovered it in a bookshop in France, where
one of all,” he says of the death of the Queen. “Well, it negotiations failed to convince backers), but the a whole shelf was labelled “cosy crime”. “It’s another
was going to happen sooner rather than later,” he notes experience made him realise that chocolate was also of those British cultural phenomena which people don’t
S U K I D H A N D A / T H E G U A R D I A N; E V E R E T T C O L L E C T I O N I N C /A L A M Y

drily. But it is striking timing that his novel of personal part of the identity of the nation: nostalgia for realise is so popular in other countries.” It seems the
loss should arrive in the aftermath of a national childhood, for wartime (the Dairy Milk recipe as we perfect match for Coe’s nostalgic Englishness and
outpouring of grief. know it was a result of changes made because of neat storytelling.
He had long toyed with the idea of writing a novel rationing) are all wrapped up in those shiny purple His fiction has always been very successful in Europe.
set during the week of Princess Diana’s funeral, but he rectangles, associations that held no truck with the “I don’t present that many challenges to translate
wanted to take a longer view than he has in the past. bureaucrats in Brussels. He found the idea of people in because the prose I write is very rarely poetic,” he says.
The public reaction to the Queen’s death – in particular committee rooms talking very seriously about rival And while it is not true that he has “never written a
“the queue” – confirmed his growing belief “that we’re chocolate brands both comic and heroic. “There’s beautiful line”, as he puts it, he wants his books to be
a nation mainly driven by emotion”, he says. Where he something kind of wonderful about it. Instead of easy to read. “I regard that as a positive.”
used to regard events such as the response to Diana’s fighting each other, we were sitting around and having Bournville will be published in France as Le Royaume
death and the Brexit referendum as “turning points, these rather difficult, valuable conversations.” What Désuni (The Disunited Kingdom) because his French
moments when the country changed direction”, now better metaphor for the absurdities and deep-rooted editor didn’t think the brand name would have much
he is not so sure. Instead, he sees them as “symptoms” attachments at the heart of Brexit? And it all began at resonance for readers outside the UK, while the idea of
of a national identity crisis that has been brewing for Bournville, an emblematic place not only for his family an ununited kingdom is all too recognisable right now.
decades. “We are starting to look like a country that is but also as a model of responsible capitalism, “a profit- Cadbury’s may be in his DNA, but, he confesses even
not driven by facts and evidence and reason at all, but making enterprise that looked after its workforce, more quietly than usual: “The chocolate I really like,
in the far extremes of Brexitland by a kind of fantasy which is not ideal, but under the present administration from a taste point of view, is European.”
and wishful thinking.” looks like a totally utopian situation”. Bournville is published by Viking on Thursday.

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 61


CULTURE BOOKS NONFICTION
John le Carré in
Cornwall, 1996

eventually left (“I’m a pig, I know I am”), before


marrying Jane, whom he nicknamed “Cow” and who
was indispensable as both his editor and gatekeeper.
For a time he worked as an illustrator and his drawings
and caricatures enrich the letters.
Film and television producers were keen to adapt
his novels from the start, and he was buoyed by the
success of the adaptations, as his letters to Alec
Guinness demonstrate. Other actors he wrote to, often
with excruciatingly fulsome admiration, include Ralph
Fiennes and Stephen Fry. With fellow authors, including
Tom Stoppard, he’s friskier. To Philip Roth he jokes that
he’s useless at giving writerly advice – “I was no use to
Joyce on Ulysses, fucked up completely when Kafka
needed me, all I could suggest to Nabokov was ‘couldn’t
you just maybe give her a couple more years’.” The high
literary references are unusual: he was more of a
Wodehouse man and read with painful slowness, in
part because of dyslexia.
“My love life has always been a disaster area,” he told
his brother Tony, and worried, needlessly, how much
the Sisman biography would expose. There’s no naming
names here, either, but the letters to Susan Anderson
(a museum curator) and Yvette Pierpaoli (an aid worker)
read like those of a lover, and to Susan Kennaway, his
affair with whom is well known, he describes himself
as “a mole too used to the dark to believe in light”.
Le Carré’s later years were blighted by a disaffection
with what Britain had become. He marched against
war in Iraq and described Tony Blair as “a mendacious
little show-off … fucking up the world in his Noddy car”.
Boris Johnson was as bad or worse (“Cowardice &

J
Missives O H N L E C A R R É – David Cornwell as he
then was – grew up among the lies of his
fraudster father Ronnie. He then entered
bullying go hand-in-hand, & Johnson is a practitioner
of both”), and further afield there was Trump (“a thin-
skinned, truthless, vengeful, pitiless ego-maniac”). As

accomplished a  world of secrets, reporting on leftist


students when he was at Oxford before
working in intelligence for MI5 and MI6.
for Brexit – “An act of economic suicide mounted by
charlatans” – it so dismayed him that he applied for
(and got) an Irish passport; his grandmother, who’d

An extraordinary Deception was his domain and as much as he hated


Ronnie he worried about coming from the same “mad
genes-bank”. Instead he became a novelist; a less
looked after him as a boy, came from Cork.
Despite his friendships with literary, theatrical and
political grandees, he took pains to “stay outside the

collection of letters damaging way to tell lies.


Le Carré felt intruded on by Adam Sisman’s 2015
biography and quickly offered an “antidote” in his
citadel” and refused a CBE when offered one by Margaret
Thatcher, whom he found surprisingly “admirable”.
The older he got, the more embattled he became:

reveals the loves and memoir The Pigeon Tunnel. The letters bring further
exposure but they’ve been sensitively edited by his
son Tim, who died suddenly in June, with the emphasis
against pharmaceutical companies, warmongers and
even spies. “In my day, we were told we were little
apostles for truth, pledged to speak fearlessly to power,”

laments of le Carré thrown on his father’s best self and industrious literary
career: the days spent writing in longhand at his desk
(his wife typed up the pages), the exhaustive research
he said. Now spies were “craven”, allowing the world
to be led by “a handful of jingoistic adventurers and
imperialist fantasists, backed by a lot of dark money

Blake Morrison he carried out (both before embarking on a novel and


after he’d done the penultimate draft), the firm control
he exerted over blurbs, jacket designs and layout. He
and manipulation: populism led from above”.
The lasting impression the letters leave is of his
doubleness: “A right little cutthroat on my way up, I’ve
changed publishers and dumped editors but always also been an insecure softie.” He’s acidic one moment,
with courtesy. “There’s no sillier fellow than the writer warm-hearted the next, sometimes about the same
complaining about critics,” he said, but on at least one person – Ian McEwan, for instance, whose novel
occasion he did so, protesting to the editor of the Amsterdam he dismisses as “piss awful” but to whom
Observer about Clive James’s “sloppy” debunking of he writes with affection and respect after they’ve met.
his work. He feels the same sense of division about himself,
Le Carré thought childhood a writer’s greatest describing his first two novels as “unputdownable. I
resource, and the letters throw light on the Cornwell prefer them to Dickens” yet worrying if his work is
years. The shame caused by his father’s “incurable up to scratch. “I’ve had an amazing run,” he says
ROB JUDGES/REX /SHUT TERSTOCK

criminality ” was compounded by his mother’s when facing death, and exults in his life with Jane as
abandonment of him when he was five; he didn’t see two “old honeymooners on a cliff ”. But the residue
her again till he was 22 and his later letters to her, though of unhappiness can’t be denied: “Looks so terribly
LETTERS solicitous, are far from warm – “[I] find her awfully hard impressive from the outside. But the inside has been
A Private Spy to tolerate”. After an abrupt departure from boarding such a ferment of buried anger and lovelessness from
The Letters of John le Carré 1945-2020 school he went to Germany and later spent five terms childhood that it was sometimes almost uncontainable.”
edited by Tim Cornwell as a German teacher at Eton (“I don’t think I’ve ever What contained it was the fiction. And the letters show
V IK IN G , £ 3 0 met so much arrogance”). He made a “silly ” early how hard he worked to get the fiction right.
marriage to Ann, whom he nicknamed “A-mouse” and To buy a copy for £21.75 go to guardianbookshop.com

6 2 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


Pop with a Twist astonishing 63 unreleased songs.
This led Hornby to wonder what other
clinging to him” – and his subsequent
Damascene conversion as a university
since the connection often dropped.
Manning considered hurling the
What Dickens and artists have been as prolific as Prince,
and so he alighted on Dickens.
student when he discovered the
author of Bleak House could actually
memory card into a bin instead.
Then, half an hour before the
Prince have in common A celebrated author by his mid-20s
whose work was published in monthly
be funny.
It’s possible that there are Dickens
bookstore closed, the final tranche
went through. The information
Fiona Sturges instalments, we learn how Dickens
wrote at high speed, releasing early
devotees who will bridle at finding
Bleak House mentioned in the same
spread, first through the then
obscure website WikiLeaks, then via
C U LT U R E chapters of Oliver Twist before the breath as the author of songs such as national newspapers including the
Dickens & Prince serialisation of The Pickwick Papers Sex Me Sex Me Not. Equally, some Guardian (for which Manning later
A Particular had ended, and publishing Nicholas Prince fans may stifle a yawn at became a columnist). To some
Kind of Genius Nickleby long before he was finished finding their mercurial hero compared Manning was a hero; to others a
Nick Hornby with Oliver Twist. with a Victorian novelist. But Hornby treasonous spy. After she was caught,
V IK IN G , £9.9 9 Heightened productivity is not all has no time for cultural hierarchies, the government began, as she puts it,
that these men share. Both grew up in treating his subjects as the equals (and a campaign to “fully destroy” her. She

I
f your first reaction to the subject poverty and were intermittently kindred spirits) they undoubtedly are. was convicted of 19 charges, including
matter of Nick Hornby’s new book abandoned by their parents: Dickens His book is both a love letter to two six counts of espionage, and sentenced
is a perplexed “Huh?”, you might moved into a boarding house aged 12 artists who have nourished him and to 35 years’ imprisonment – almost
take comfort in knowing its author had while the rest of his family were the story of how they “caught fire 20 times the previous record for any
similar feelings. In superficial terms, packed off to Marshalsea debtors’ and lit up the world”. American whistleblower.
his yoking together of two cultural prison; at the same age, Prince was To buy a copy for £8.49 go to As well as these critical events,
giants – the novelist Charles Dickens kicked out by his father and forced to guardianbookshop.com README.txt also covers Manning’s
and musician Prince Rogers Nelson – set up home in a friend’s basement. early life – and how the army appeared
seems unusual given they operated Both felt aggrieved at their treatment to offer an escape from a traumatising
not just in different media but by their respective industries, which upbringing. But once there she was
different centuries. While both found they felt prized profit over creativity: Secrets and spies targeted by drill sergeants for her
fame early and died in their 50s, the Prince’s wrangles with his record label “slight, childish” appearance and
bare bones of their biographies are culminated in him abandoning his The justifications of a subjected to homophobic insults.
otherwise wildly different. Before name in favour of a symbol, while In this turbo-charged masculine
beginning his research, it seemed to Dickens furiously took on the copycats WikiLeaks whistleblower environment, her struggles with
Hornby that the biggest thing they had and pirates who plundered his work gender identity (she would later come
in common was him. “They are,” he without credit or remuneration. Simon Parkin out as trans) became more pronounced:
writes, “two of what I shall have to All this bears out Hornby’s hunch “[It was] less about being a woman
describe … as My People – the people that two artists working 150 or so MEMOIR trapped in a man’s body than about the
I have thought about a lot, over the years apart can have lots in common, README.txt innate incoherence between the person
years, the artists who have shaped but there’s more to Dickens & Prince Chelsea Manning I felt myself to be and the one the
me, inspired me, made me think about  than mere comparisons. Most BODLE Y HE A D, £2 0 world wanted me to be,” she writes.
my work.” important is what their lives and work In Iraq the bullying continued.
It was a commemorative box set of tell us about creativity, and it’s on this After she witnessed the death of a

I
Prince’s 1987 album Sign o’ the Times that Hornby is in his element. From n February 2010 Chelsea Manning, colleague, Manning felt how “with
that gave him the idea for this book, his early days writing about football a 22-year-old intelligence analyst enough grief, adrenaline and fear”,
which, at 90-odd pages, is really more (in Fever Pitch) and music (in High in the US Army, sat down with a war can turn anyone “amoral, even
of an essay. The newly released Sign Fidelity), the author has long been large mocha and accessed the free malevolent”. She began to wrestle
o’ the Times package featured an fascinated by the transformative internet at a Barnes & Noble bookshop with two life-changing secrets: who
impact of culture, so it’s natural that in Rockville, Maryland. She began to she was, and what she saw.
his ruminations on Dickens and Prince upload every incident report filed by At times, README.txt is vague;
should cause him to reflect on his own the US military during the wars in some sections have been blacked out,
status as consumer and creator. He Iraq and Afghanistan – close to presumably on legal advice. Manning
writes brilliantly about his wariness of three-quarters of a million documents claims to have seen more than she
Prince in Dickens as a child – “[he] had the whiff in total. Manning had downloaded ever disclosed, things she “will never
Florida, 2007 of BBC early evening costume drama the files several weeks earlier, while reveal”. “I know this is annoying,”
serving in Iraq, and burned them on to she writes. “But I have already faced
a series of rewritable DVDs disguised serious consequences for sharing
to look like albums by Taylor Swift, information I believe to be in the
Katy Perry and Lady Gaga. Then she public interest; I am uninterested in
transferred the files to the memory facing them again.” Even so, what
card in her digital camera. When she remains is a compelling, taut account
left the country, military customs did of what she has experienced, and
not blink. a persuasive justification of how
Manning had spent months she behaved.
sifting vast quantities of classified At her trial, lawyers convinced
information, email updates and Manning to issue a mea culpa:
video feeds of live conflict in Baghdad. “I look back at my decisions and
She likens the intelligence operations wonder how on earth could I …
centre where she worked to a trauma believe I could change the world for
ward. “The United States’ formal better over the decisions of those
promise to the Iraqi government with the proper authority?” Today,
about how our troops would treat the her view has changed. “What I did,”
country and its citizens didn’t mean she concludes, “was an act … of
KMA ZUR /NFL /GE T T Y

a thing,” she writes. Among the files forcing progress.” Five years after
was video evidence that appeared to President Obama commuted
show the deaths of civilians during Manning’s sentence, history
US airstrikes, as well as attempts to continues to vindicate her actions.
cover up a CIA torture programme. To buy a copy for £17.40 go to
The files took all day to upload, guardianbookshop.com

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 6 3


CULTURE BOOKS NONFICTION
Not the messiah you interesting,’ she replies.” This
enduring camaraderie, together with
Global warning Anything written or orchestrated by
her – like this appealingly produced
Healthy self-awareness his religious faith, becomes a recipe
for how to become incomprehensibly
A powerful but uneven anthology of essays – stands an
excellent chance.
from a rock star activist famous without losing your head.
Bono is unusually open to being
clarion call on climate Thunberg herself writes with
the stark conviction of youth and an
Dorian Lynskey challenged in interviews, turning
them into megaphones for his own
Gaia Vince activist’s directness, which is both
refreshing to read and tiring.
MEMOIR doubts. He manufactures that push- E S S AY S Fortunately, space is given to writers
Surrender and-pull dynamic here by restaging The Climate Book who weave messages with skill and
40 Songs, One Story arguments, especially with Ali Greta Thunberg beauty, like Peter Brannen, who takes
Bono and McGuinness, who sceptically A LLEN L A NE , £2 5 the chemistry of the carbon cycle and
CORNERS TONE, £2 5 describes his lobbying for debt presents it as the marvellous life force
cancellation as “Mr Bono Goes to it is. Warning us where we’re heading,
Washington”. After he reluctantly he evokes an episode of global warming

W W
hen manager Paul agreed to a photo op with George e are supposed to have from Earth’s history: “In the aftermath,
McGuinness took on U2 in W Bush as part of an effort to get solved this problem in just when the fever finally broke, one
1978 he said, quoting F Scott him to fund HIV medication in under 30 years. That’s the could travel the world without seeing
Fitzgerald, that their 18-year-old Africa, George Soros told him: “Bono, same amount of time that has elapsed a tree, the world’s coral reefs had been
frontman saw “the whole equation”. you have sold out for a plate of lentils.” since Whitney Houston and Kevin replaced by bacterial slime, the fossil
Incapable of meeting punk’s standards Bush eventually agreed to $15bn for Costner smooched in The Bodyguard. record went silent and the planet took
of cool, the young Dubliners found starters (“That’s a lot of lentils”) Governments’ commitment to limit nearly 10 million years to pull itself
improbable success by going too far but it was a bruising education in global heating to 1.5C above the back from oblivion.”
and being too much. That impulse political realities. Lessons are learned, preindustrial average means the huge Naomi Oreskes writes fiercely about
produced fabulous coups, from their too, in a section on “White Messiah transition to net zero will have to be “the history of denial and obfuscation
performance at Live Aid in 1985 to their Syndrome”: “Despite our best made by 2050. By then, renewables by the fossil fuel industry”, and there
reinvention of stadium rock with Zoo intentions, some of us activists can should be producing most of our are stirring contributions from the
TV – as well as memorable disasters, burn out in the fire of our own do- energy – certainly all the electricity climate scientist Kate Marvel and
notably the decision to deposit 2014’s goodery and the secret is to know in rich countries – and we should all the novelist Amitav Ghosh. This is
Songs of Innocence into every iTunes when to shut up and listen.” be driving around in electric cars, a campaigning book of course, but
account in the world. As Bono writes in There’s some blarney here – a eating sustainable, mainly plant-based much more than that. There are
this, his first memoir: “Our best work weakness for the too-cute aphorism foods and living in well-insulated clear explanations of how human
is never too far from our worst.” and the florid metaphor – but Bono’s houses built from low-carbon materials. activities are pushing Earth’s systems
The same goes for his extra- appetite for contradictions and The many books written about how to close to dangerous tipping points,
curricular activities. Nobody has done humiliations, which goes far beyond avoid the climate crisis will hopefully and of the socioeconomic drivers
more to expand the parameters of rock tactical self-deprecation, more than have become obsolete. Which of them of the crisis.
stardom, often in contentious ways. compensates. He admits that his will survive to be read beyond the We are told throughout that if we
If any song title sums him up, then it’s “tendency toward the preposterous” combustion era, if only by historians don’t limit global temperature rises
Tryin’ to Throw Your Arms Around and his bullish conviction can be – as testament to this period of crisis to 1.5C, we face disaster, yet planned
the World, from 1991’s Achtung Baby. “very wearying”. Such self-knowledge and uncertainty? fossil fuel production by 2030 will
Bono wants to go everywhere, meet makes this generous, energetic Well, Greta Thunberg is already be more than twice the amount
everyone, learn everything and book anything but. assured her place in history as the consistent with this target. In short,
somehow pull it all together. His To buy a copy for £21.75 go to Jeanne d’Arc (or Cassandra) of our we are very unlikely to meet our
failures are therefore more interesting guardianbookshop.com time. She’s been heroically battling transition target by 2050. What then?
than most people’s successes. the forces of climate inaction and In a book of more than 400 pages,
Running to 557 pages, Surrender denial since she stepped on to the just one and a half are given over to
is characteristically expansive, but it Greta Thunberg global stage as a shy 15-year-old technologies aimed at reducing global
whizzes by, with each of its 40 present- in Milan in 2021 schoolkid “striking for the climate”. heating by reflecting sunlight back
tense chapters pegged to a relevant into space. That particular essay
song lyric and decorated with a can be summed up in a quote:
felt-pen sketch. Bono has storytelling “Geoengineering is not an option.”
verve and a genuine desire for self- The idea of withdrawing emitted
examination, neither of which is carbon from the atmosphere gets
guaranteed in rock memoirs. He is a little more (reluctant) attention,
enthusiastic about praising others, because “we’ve left Greta’s generation
often at his own expense. The little choice”. Nuclear power is barely
supporting cast is ridiculous: he mentioned even though decarbonising
relates colourful encounters with energy systems is fundamental to
David Bowie, Frank Sinatra and this effort.
Johnny Cash as well as Bill Clinton, For all Thunberg’s brilliance and
Nelson Mandela and Pope John Paul II. bravery, ignoring these possibilities
MAURO UJE T TO/NURPHOTO/RE X /SHUT TER STO CK

You could trace Bono’s desire to feel timorous and blinkered. This
build bridges back to his parents’ book is superb at explaining the
marriage: his father Bob was a Catholic urgency and importance of preventing
and a romantic; his mother Iris, whose climate change, but despite its heft
death when he was 14 became his it stops too soon. There is little
primal trauma, was a pragmatic pragmatism over what to do about
Protestant. It’s notable that he still now-certain changes, which means
lives in Ireland and has retained the it feels like a book whose time was
same bandmates, best friends and 10 years ago. But perhaps it has taken
partner for more than 40 years. His this decade for an audience that’s
wife Ali emerges as the book’s quiet receptive to its message to develop.
star: “‘I wouldn’t trust a man who History will show.
didn’t find you attractive,’ I say. ‘I To buy a copy for £21.25 go to
wouldn’t trust a woman who found guardianbookshop.com

6 4 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


FICTION
Bobby Western
asks: ‘You ever
bump into
something down
there that you
didn’t know
what it was?’

around early 80s New Orleans, hobnobbing with the


locals, trying to outflank his enemies. But it also casts
back through the decades, mining his quasi-incestuous
bond with his suicidal sister, Alicia. Along the way it
introduces us to her nightmarish hallucinations: “the
Thalidomide Kid and the old lady with the roadkill stole
and Bathless Grogan and the dwarves and the Minstrel
Show”. Alicia likens these demons to a troupe of penny-
dreadful entertainers. They materialise at her bedside
whenever she skips her meds.
On a prose level, McCarthy – now 89 – continues to
fire on all cylinders. His writing is potent, intoxicating,
offsetting luxuriant dialogue with spare, vivid

I
Into the abyss T ’ S T H E D E P T H O F T H E DA R K N E S S that
spooks Bobby Western, the haunted man at
the heart of Cormac McCarthy’s extraordinary
descriptions. The bonfire leaning in the sea wind; the
burning bits of brush hobbling away up the beach. As
a storyteller, though, I suspect that he is deliberately

A salvage diver new novel. Western works as a salvage diver in


the Mexican Gulf, tending to sunken barges
and stricken oil rigs. He’s kicking up clouds in
winding down, wrapping up. This novel plays out as a
great dying fall.
Western and Alicia, we learn, are children of the

plumbs mysterious the clay-coloured water and pressing further into the
unknown with every weighted step. His colleagues are
blase but experience has taught him to take care. He
bomb. Their father was a noted nuclear physicist
who helped split the atom, leading to the destruction
of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Western, in his youth,

depths in asks: “You ever bump into something down there that
you didn’t know what it was?”
Published a full 16 years after the Pulitzer prize-
studied physics himself. He became familiar with
protons and quarks, leptons and string theory, but
gave up his calling for a life of blue-collar drifting.

Cormac McCarthy’s winning The Road, The Passenger is like a submerged


ship itself; a gorgeous ruin in the shape of a hardboiled
noir thriller. McCarthy’s generational saga covers
Quantum mechanics, he feels, can only take us so far.
“I don’t know if it actually explains anything,” he says.
“You can’t illustrate the unknown.”

glorious sunset everything from the atomic bomb to the Kennedy


assassination to the principles of quantum mechanics.
It’s by turns muscular and maudlin, immersive and
McCarthy’s interest in physics has been stoked
by his time as a trustee at the Santa Fe Institute, a
nonprofit research centre. Since 2014 he’s largely been

song of a novel indulgent. Every novel, said Iris Murdoch, is the


wreck of a perfect idea. This one is enormous. It’s got
locked doors and blind turns. It contains skeletons and
holed up with the scholars, exploring the limits of
science – and presumably of language as well – only to
conclude that no system is flawless. High-concept

Xan Brooks buried gold.


Some 40 feet below the surface, Western explores a
downed charter jet. Inside the fuselage, he picks his
plots take on water; machine-tooled narratives break
down. And so it is with The Passenger, which sets out
as an existential chase thriller in the mould of No
way past the floating detritus and the glassy-eyed Country for Old Men before collapsing in on itself.
victims, still buckled in their seats. The plane carried Western might outpace his pursuers but he can’t
eight passengers but one appears to be missing and escape his own history. So he heads into the desert,
the subsequent investigation hints at a government alone, to watch the oil refineries burning in the distance
cover-up. Except that this may be a red herring; we’re and observe the carpet-coloured vipers coiled in the
B R O O K P E T E R S O N / G E T T Y/ S T O C K T R E K I M A G E S

still in the book’s shallows. Western’s troubles, we grass at his feet. “The abyss of the past into which the
realise, are altogether closer to home. world is falling,” he thinks. “Everything vanishing as
McCarthy began work on The Passenger back in the if it had never been.”
mid-1980s, before his career-making Border trilogy; What a glorious sunset song of a novel this is. It’s
building it piecemeal and revisiting it down the years. rich and it’s strange, mercurial and melancholic.
Small wonder, then, that this family tragedy feels McCarthy started out as the laureate of American
filleted, part of a larger whole and trailing so many loose manifest destiny, spinning his hard-bitten accounts of
The Passenger ends that it requires a self-styled “coda” – a second rapacious white men. He ends his journey, perhaps,
Cormac McCarthy novel, Stella Maris, published next month – to complete as  the era’s jaundiced undertaker. Come friendly
PICA D OR, £2 0 the story. So this is a book without guardrails, an bombs. Come rising oceans. The old world is dying
invitation to get lost. We’re constantly bumping into and  probably not before time, and The Passenger
dark objects and wondering what they mean. steals in to turn out all the lights.
Ostensibly the narrative sees Western pinballing To buy a copy for £17.40 go to guardianbookshop.com

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 6 5


CULTURE BOOKS FICTION
Political horrors fabric and padding”, or to put it
another way: they’re like hands.
through genre conventions, to revivify
the big, ambitious literary novel. Karl
enduring and eternal, with Frances.
This is a book full of lovely things:
An occult treatment of Often undecided as to what she’s
trying to convey, Enríquez hedges her
Ove Knausgård attempted something
similar in The Morning Star, and
clothes and curtains and old Apple Mac
computers in “boiled-sweet pink”.
Argentina’s ‘dirty war’ bets. “The silence was total,” she tells
us, “except for nocturnal birds, the
Hanya Yanagihara in To Paradise. The
problem is that, like them, she seems
There are good lovely things, owned by
the creative bohemians (squashy sofas,
Sam Byers lapping of the river, a dog barking in
the distance.” When her indecision
to think that a commercial veneer
obviates the need to invest language
dogs, “square-cut antique emerald
cufflinks”), and bad lovely things,
Our Share of Night reaches a peak, she gives up on sentence with life. The result is the worst of owned by the Ukip-voting parvenus
Mariana Enríquez, structure completely and dumps both worlds: neither thrills nor poetry, (Hunter wellies) and the faux-commie
translated by information in a heap: someone’s pace nor the pleasure of prose. Etonians (slim hardback novels).
Megan McDowell hands and feet are “tied with the nylon To buy a copy for £16.14 As well as Mitford, there is
G R A N TA , £ 18.9 9 cord that had been easy to buy without go to guardianbookshop.com something of Elizabeth Jane Howard’s
raising suspicion (‘It’s for a package, much-adored Cazalet Chronicles in
I need a good strong one’), yet was here, plus elements of Eva Rice’s

I
n 2017, Things We Lost in the Fire impossible to break without great The Lost Art of Keeping Secrets and
by Argentinian writer Mariana
Enríquez introduced a compelling
effort or the use of a knife”.
The translator, Megan McDowell,
The reboot of love Barbara Trapido’s Brother of the More
Famous Jack. Darling belongs in the
new voice to English readers. Tough-
edged and tightly honed, her short
has handled all Enríquez’s previous
books, but this time something is off.
A Mitford classic is pantheon of books that feel a bit like
opening up a doll’s house to show the
stories inhabited the space between
high gothic horror and cruel
Is “an adult depression that collapsed
him into bed” really flawless English?
delightfully reimagined impeccable precision of the world
within. The lamp really turns on; the
sociopolitical reality.
In Our Share of Night, her first novel
And what are we to think when we’re
told, hilariously, that in the course of
Ella Risbridger radio really plays. The front comes off
to show these other lives, and golden
translated into English, set in the learning to cook, Gaspar “ventured Darling light is reflected back on to the reader.
decades during and after Argentina’s painstakingly into a potato pie”? India Knight We might call this, as a genre, novels
military dictatorship, Enríquez ditches Some might argue that a horror FIG T REE , £14 .9 9 of the interior: interiors of places, and
the miniature and goes big. Shaping novel, as this aspires to be, should be interiors of people. It’s easy to dismiss
her style to the space, she allows it to judged less on the sophistication of its the domestic, but if home is where
go drastically slack. language and more on its ability to the heart is, the heart is where all
Over the course of 736 pages, Our thrill. But the narrative is as loosely humanity happens. And Darling is a

F
Share of Night takes unstructured, shaped as its sentences. Section one or a reader unfamiliar with very human book, full of feelings and
direction-free wandering and makes builds to the book’s best set piece: Nancy Mitford’s The Pursuit heartbreak and humour and joy.
of it a governing aesthetic. The plot is Juan summoning the Darkness in an of Love, India Knight’s And yet, how much of that is India
relatively straightforward. We meet orgy of holy violence. Here, as the reimagining would be a perfect Knight and how much is Nancy Mitford?
Gaspar as a child in 1981, and follow ghosts of Argentina’s “dirty war” comfort read: the kind of book you This is the difficult question when
him into early adulthood in 1997. His become ever more insistent, and occult take into the bath and keep reading considering a retelling of a book that
mother having died in suspicious power entrenches the ability of a even when the water has gone cold, feels as fresh and alive as Mitford’s
circumstances, Gaspar grows up in the privileged elite to torture and oppress, a one-sitting dark-at-four joy. 1945 classic. The Pursuit of Love has
care of his dying father, Juan. Juan is Enríquez’s fusion of political allegory Briefly, then, for that reader: scarcely been out of print since initial
a medium; his son has inherited his and gleeful gore seems briefly to teenage Linda Radlett lives in “the publication, and is not yet out of
powers. Gaspar’s abilities make him cohere. But she has blown her best ideas very definition of emptiness” (north copyright. Only last year it was
useful to malign and politically and discharged all narrative tension. Norfolk). Marooned in a tiny hamlet adapted, gloriously, by Emily
powerful groups, but Juan is For the remaining 500 pages, she is with her rock-star father Matthew, Mortimer for the BBC. A second series
determined to protect him. adrift, recycling the novel’s motifs, wafting bohemian mother Sadie, is in development. The Radletts,
“Sometimes,” Enríquez writes, reworking her own past material, and many siblings and narrator cousin interwar edition, are thriving.
“it is hard to name the horror.” Perhaps damning her characters to stasis. Frances for company, Linda dreams Knight’s reimagining uses the same
this is a plaintive note to self; Enríquez Enríquez isn’t alone in trying, of the future: mostly love affairs, characters; the same relationships;
rarely names things at all. Through with a side order of freedom. Darling many of the same jokes. There is
a rite called the Rite, Juan channels Last year’s BBC is the story of her growing up: the something discombobulating about
a dark force called the Darkness. The adaptation of people she meets; the men she falls characters you know being almost
Rite is presided over by a sinister The Pursuit of Love in love with; and her friendship, but not quite themselves. Yet Knight
order called the Order, who also writes from the same sensibility as
R O B E R T V I G L A S K Y/ T H E O D O R A F I L M S L I M I T E D & M O O N A G E P I C T U R E S L I M I T E D

control the place where the Rite must Mitford, with an easy facility for social
be performed – the Place of Power. observation and caustic charm. If the
What the Order don’t know is that the Radletts of the 21st century are a little
Place of Power isn’t the only powerful less extraordinary than the Radletts
place. There’s also another place, of the 20th, they still leap off the page
called the Other Place. with warmth. Knight’s characters are
Enríquez’s stubborn anti-invention sparky and fun, and in some cases
soaks deep into her language. their relationships are crafted with
“Something was changing,” we’re more care than in Mitford’s original.
told, “and the change was terrible and This is perhaps because Knight, free
wonderful.” A garden is “lovely but from the innate pressures of the roman
sad”. “I have no doubt,” says Juan, à clef, has enough distance for clarity.
“that there is something important Her Radlett family is warm and secure,
and repulsive behind that door.” You in spite of it all, because the parents
have to really treasure your banalities adore each other. Their love, Knight
to insist on serving them up in pairs. writes, “permeated the house like the
Similes unfailingly miss their mark. smell of a pie baking”. They dance to
Two men having sex are “like the Kate Bush. They wink at each other.
pictures in the porn magazines, only They talk openly about sex. Mitford
moving”. Juan’s large hands when never wrote a really good marriage
they punch someone are “like boxing (Fanny’s husband, in Pursuit and
gloves without the protection of the sequels, is the very definition of a

6 6 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


nonentity), and it’s tempting to Carnivores (“blown to bits on his third BOOKS OF THE MONTH

Fiction in
wonder whether she ever could. foreign tour”). In the title story, an
Darling, it must be said, is all the better enemy is advancing on “the
for Matthew and Sadie’s delight in one northernmost outpost on the

translation
another: it makes the characters make Northwest Front”. In scenes
sense. Is that added clarity reason reminiscent of wars in Vietnam and
enough to rewrite The Pursuit of Afghanistan, the base is gradually,
Love? Maybe. And it’s always a chaotically evacuating. A guard
delight to find something new to soldier, Private Martin, is held behind A fugitive Russian soldier on the Trans-Siberian
carry you through winter; Knight for an infraction committed by his railway; a final farewell; an illicit marriage; plus
rises to that challenge with aplomb. night-time counterpart, who has
To buy a copy for £13.04 abandoned his post. Martin recollects an eccentric portrait of Pliny. By John Self
go to guardianbookshop.com a general on a soldiers’ training
exercise who had said: “‘Give them
rifles. Give them caps.’ Then he
whispered the secret: ‘Get ’em young, something for the last bride is that she seems
Visions of America treat ’em tough, tell ’em nothin.’” In a
life where confusion and ignorance are
time; an exception is
when a loved one is
to be from a different
caste, despite his
A standout collection intended, violence provides purpose,
with or without an objective.
dying. “It was our last
30th December,”
denials. “Can’t we tell
just by looking at her?”
brimming with energy There is a sense of the centre not
holding – of American anxiety as a
writes the narrator of
Ti Amo, addressing her
Perumal Murugan is one
of India’s best-known
David Hayden bestowal to us all, as American energy
once was. In the mind of Private
terminally ill husband,
“and it would be our last
literary novelists, and
Pyre is beautifully done,
SHORT STORIES Martin, “the tundra was not one New Year’s Eve too.” with flashbacks to the
Get ’em Young, dumb thing but billions! The tiniest The book is a short, lovers’ meeting in a soda
Treat ’em Tough, stupidities knitted together. Doltish Eastbound sharp account of how shop, second thoughts
Tell ’em Nothing leaves, small like mouse ears, Maylis de Kerangal, they cope with the as Saroja finds herself
Robin McLean forking foolishly from dimwit twigs translated by knowledge of his thinking fondly of the
A ND O T HER S TORIE S, £11.9 9 overlapping endlessly with same, Jessica Moore impending death. He confinement of her old
blending together only in the eyes of LE S FUG IT I V E S, £10.9 9 abandons his work as home and a further

R
obin McLean’s first novel, Pity thickskulled watchmen and other In this timely novella a painter, deciding to elopement to evade
the Beast, a sublimely dark hoofed mammals. A continental about a Russian military “give up looking into what prejudice threatens
revenge western told in a moronic collage.” This caustic conscript defecting from yourself”, but the to bring down on them.
variety of human and animal voices, description could be of the United the army, 20-year-old narrator is a novelist: The title promises a
generated a startled response from States, or everywhere. Aliocha is on the how else can a writer dramatic conclusion,
readers and critics, admiring of its Even outside the violent events in Trans-Siberian railway process life than by and the book delivers.
originality and repulsed by the the book, violence is ambient, present from Moscow to writing about it? This
frankness of its violence. The same in the incomprehensible strangeness Vladivostok. When he novella, sometimes hard Awake
huge energy and weirdness present in of nature – including our own, which gets there he plans to to read for its bleakness Harald Voetmann,
that book drives these 10 stories. If you puts the book atmospherically, if not “hide, remake himself but impossible to look translated by Johanne
are at ease with the unpredictable, theologically, alongside Cormac and earn enough to get away from, shows that Sorgenfri Ottosen
they will grip hard and pull you in. McCarthy and Joy Williams. There’s a back to the west”. But even when we know the LOLLI EDITIONS, £12 .99
But for Herr Hitler is a story about suspicion that life force and death no literary train journey destination, the journey “Living only means to
moving to Alaska: about fate, history force are one. would be complete is still worthwhile. be awake,” wrote Pliny
and unimaginable consequence. A In wild places, McLean has said in without encountering a the Elder, the Roman
terse, moody prose style mutates into an interview, “you feel the correct stranger – in this case Pyre naturalist who died in
one that is “strange and lavish” (as one size. I do feel that humans have gotten Hélène, a Frenchwoman Perumal Murugan, the eruption of Vesuvius
character, Eric, describes his partner, really mixed up about our size.” who has her own translated by in AD79, in his Natural
Iris). The concept of America as a place Humanity and its wildernesses are secrets. Through a Aniruddhan Vasudevan History. Danish author
where people go to make good, to only a part of McLean’s story worlds, combination of clothes PUSHK IN, £9.9 9 Harald Voetmann’s
make themselves, is placed in tension and not always the central one. Other swapping, psychological As unanswerable funny, eccentric novel
with the America of the unmade and selfhoods are present: animal, gameplay and simply questions go, “How takes snippets from that
the lost. Iris, the character whose life botanical, geological. “Those beings hiding in a toilet, the did you bewitch him?” book and gives us the
and death story this is, asks: “Where are not background.” McLean’s ability two play cat and mouse is hard to beat, but it’s man behind them in all
do all the gone people go?” to look beyond the “minority species” with the senior Russian one of many that young his human foibles. If
McLean writes at times with the view, our own, gives her stories much officer moving Saroja faces when she your novel doesn’t have
hyper-keen vividness of nightmare: of their peculiar concentration and inexorably along the moves with her new much plot, then you’d
not surrealism but a kind of American vertiginous originality. train. The result is a husband, Kumaresan, better have a lot of
expressionism, like a darker, gristlier By working beyond the familiar balance of internal to his village in character, and Awake
Donald Barthelme – grotesque, comic artificialities of realism, McLean thought and external southern India. The certainly does. Pliny
and unsettling. creates dense and memorable pictures action propelled by a main concern locally is vain and prone to
In True Carnivores a woman sells of American life that are intensely and narrative that races about Kumaresan’s nosebleeds, and shows
her house, steals her sister’s money oddly real. Some themes or objects – a on in long sentences, us that even the greatest
and abducts her child. The Auntie, cat that lives in a pond, a pterodactyl keeping things flowing mind is prey to base
like most of McLean’s characters, is out of time – are perhaps not meant to beautifully in between urges – especially lust.
deliberately incomplete: a stuck be read metaphorically, but as moments of drama. Meanwhile, his nephew
moment of self, there and then gone. talismans of instability and mystery. Pliny the Younger offers
Her actions seem incommensurate Underneath their fantasies of capacity Ti Amo scathing commentary
with her motivation, but at the same and agency, McLean’s characters are, Hanne Ørstavik, on his uncle’s writing.
time she, and the other characters, are as the narrator in the superb House translated by Awake is the first in a
strongly present and convincing. Full of Feasting says, “helpless, as we Martin Aitken trilogy about humanity’s
The US military features across the all are, every day of our lives”. A ND O T HER S T ORIE S, £11.9 9 drive to conquer nature.
book: a dead brother in House Full of To buy a copy for £10.43 go to We’re not often aware The mind boggles at
Feasting, a dead husband in True guardianbookshop.com of when we’re doing what is yet to come.

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 6 7


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Come fall in love with


the ‘green heart of Italy’.
Day 6
This morning we start with a leisurely stroll around
the Springs of Clituno. Then we make our way to the
hilltop village of Spoleto marvelling at the medieval
‘Rocca’ (fortress) and ‘Ponte delle Torri’ (bridge of
towers). As we descend through town we also stop
at the 12th century cathedral.
Day 7
Today begins in Montefalco with more exquisite
Renaissance frescos. Around midday we travel to a
local vineyard for a tour, wine tasting and delicious
lunch. Afterward we return to Trevi to spend time
independently before our last dinner as a group.
Day 8
We bid arrivederci to Trevi and head to Rome for our
flight home enamoured by Umbria’s idyllic scenery.

SIGHTS AND DELIGHTS OF UMBRIA


Departs 28 March, 13 June, 4 July, 12 September &
17 October 2023.
FROM £1,365pp
Half board with return flights to Rome and wine at
evening meals. Early bird discount available when
booked six months in advance.

A
ll the best that Italy has to offer can be Day 3 If you’ve got a taste for gently exploring more of
found in Umbria. This is where beautifully We head to Spello, a medieval hilltop town sitting Italy have a look at these options:
preserved Renaissance hilltop villages under Monte Subasio with views over the glorious
dot the landscape and life is still lived at a slower verdant Tiber Valley as well as quiet winding LAKE COMO GARDENS & VILLA
pace. Along with fertile land that inspires culinary streets with enchanting flower displays. We’ll also Find paradise on the shores of Italy’s famous lake.
delights, this area boasts world-renowned artistic, see Roman arches and Pinturicchio frescoes in the
architectural and historic attractions. A true BOLOGNA  LA GRASSA
church of Santa Maria Maggiore before walking
off-the-beaten-path experience awaits you here... A foodie’s delight with visits to Parma & Modena.
over the Roman aqueduct to delight in more
along with the famous Umbrian hospitality. breathtaking panoramas. To see our other guided holidays in Europe or the
Sights and Delights of Umbria, one of our many UK visit adagio.co.uk or call 01707 537254.
Day 4
guided walking holidays, is a gentle way to
experience this captivating land dubbed the ‘green We have the full day to discover Assisi, perched
heart of Italy’. high above the rolling valley floor on the flank of
Monte Subasio. A local guide shows us the town’s
Take a brief look at our itinerary for the week: highlights, including the Basilica of St Francis with Go online
its magnificent frescos. The afternoon is free so you to request your
Day 1 can enjoy more sights in Assisi like San Damiano
We fly to Rome and follow the Tiber river through and the Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels started FREE copy
Lazio and into Umbria to the centre of Trevi. The by St Francis. Or you may prefer a short walk in the of our 2023
Hotel Antica Dimora alla Rocca – dating back to the surrounding area. brochure
16th century and restored to its former glory – is
our base. Day 5
We take a day trip to tranquil Lake Trasimeno,
Day 2 Italy’s fourth largest lake located on the border of
Today we wander the narrow cobbled streets Umbria and Tuscany. Here we go on a boat ride to
around the hilltop town of Trevi. After visiting its the picturesque Isola Maggiore, home to a small
museum and beautiful frescos in the church of 13th century village. An easy ramble takes us to
San Francesco, we take an easy walk along the the top of the island and the Chiesa di San Michele
Olive Tree Trail to see Olivo di Sant’Emiliano – a Arcangelo, where there are superb views – you
1,700-year-old olive tree. A tasting of local olive oils may even spot Tuscany on a clear day! A visit to the
follows back at the hotel. Captain’s House and lace museum is also possible.
CULTURE BOOKS
Guests at Hill House are
tormented by hammering
and wild laughter

abusive behaviours can easily be


dismissed as ‘madness’. And the home
has traditionally been a place – often
the only place – of female agency.”
In my novel, The People Before,
gallery fundraiser Jess finds herself shut
away in a dilapidated old house when
she leaves work and moves with her
young family to the Suffolk countryside.
Cut off from former colleagues and
friends, and isolated from neighbours
who are suspicious of the London family
that has taken on this notorious local
property, Jess feels on edge, watched
– at night, she’s convinced a stranger
is lurking, just out of sight. Are these
premonitions, or is her mind playing
tricks? In The Skeleton Key, Nell is
convinced her return to the family home
in London, to celebrate the anniversary
of her father’s legendary treasure hunt
book, is fraught with danger. The
house holds secrets, and the tension of
the novel resides in whether Nell will
uncover their true source in time.

No place
name appears on the walls – a chilling Houses have played a central part
device echoed in Sarah Waters’ 2009 in many recent thrillers, to the extent
gothic novel, The Little Stranger – that a new genre of domestic noir has
Eleanor is accused of having written emerged in the last decade, as writers

like home
it herself. Increasingly, readers – and explore fears around home ownership
even Eleanor herself – begin to wonder and marital disharmony. Louise
how much of the action is taking place Candlish’s 2018 novel Our House,
“inside her head as much as in the hall”. recently televised, asked readers to put
As in Charlotte Perkins Gilman’s 1892 themselves in a nightmarish situation
A new wave of gothic and novella, The Yellow Wallpaper, whose – returning from a trip to discover
narrator is confined to a single room strangers moving into your beloved
haunted house novels explores with walls that seem to shift and writhe family home. Meanwhile Abigail Dean’s
the fears that lurk behind closed and come alive at night, Eleanor’s thriller of last year, Girl A, raised darker
mental state becomes intertwined with questions about how a house can hold
doors. By Charlotte Northedge that of the house, until she feels that the legacy of childhood trauma.
“whatever it wants of me it can have”. With echoes of Lisa Jewell’s 2019 hit

W
hen Dee walks are these visions real, or products of Gilman’s narrator has what we would The Family Upstairs, Dean’s novel
through the front Dee’s troubled mind – and exactly what now call postnatal depression, and her explores what happens to a group of
door in Catriona are the horrors that haunt Ted’s house? physician husband prescribes bed rest siblings who flee their abusive parents,
Ward’s recent Ward is one of a number of novelists and an absence of all stimulus, meaning and their upbringing in a “house of
thriller The exploring new territory in gothic no reading or writing, and hours spent horrors”. In both novels, the childhood
Last House on fiction, though the haunted house has staring at the peeling wallpaper of home functions as a lasting reminder
Needless Street, readers of gothic fiction long proved a source of fascination and the old nursery until she becomes of mental and physical pain. Dean’s
find themselves in a familiar place. The fear. From Henry James’s governess in convinced it is possessed: “And worst protagonist Lexie must decide what to
house is “an underworld; a deep cave The Turn of the Screw (1898) to Shirley of all by moonlight, it becomes bars! do with the house on the moors she and
where lonely shafts of light fall on Jackson’s shy Eleanor Vance in her 1959 The outside pattern I mean, and the her siblings have been bequeathed. The
strange mounds, jagged broken things. classic The Haunting of Hill House, woman behind it is as plain as can be.” horror is all too real, and yet Lexie’s
Plywood is nailed over all the windows,” recently adapted for Netflix, these Imprisoned in the domestic realm, as quest to reconcile herself with the early
and the “whole place smells of death; stories have often hinged on unreliable Eleanor has also been while she cared life she has spent years trying to escape
not of rot or blood but dry bone and narrators, usually women, whose for her elderly mother, it is hardly is haunted by ghosts from her past.
dust; like an old grave, long forgotten”. psychological problems and struggles surprising that these female Ward’s protagonist is equally haunted
Dee is investigating the with loneliness tinge their perceptions protagonists see danger in the buildings by memories of the day her sister
disappearance of her younger sister of the danger around them. Stephen around them. As Erin Kelly, author of disappeared, and as the author leads
Lulu, 11 years earlier, and the trail has King famously singled out those works recent gothic thriller The Skeleton Key, us through the stories of Dee and Ted,
led her to Ted Bannerman, a strange as “the only two great novels of the puts it, “natural reactions to coercive or we discover the real horror lingers not in
loner who lives at the edge of the woods supernatural in the last hundred years”, the creepy house on Needless Street, but
with his cat Olivia, and occasionally but it was his son, fellow horror novelist inside the psyches of its inhabitants.
S T E V E D I E T L /A L L S TA R / N E T F L I X

his daughter, Lauren. Lurking next Joe Hill, who put his finger on why: The supernatural takes a back seat to
door, Dee hears scratching and because “houses aren’t haunted Imprisoned in the the psychological and, by the time the
scrabbling through the walls; late at – people are”. all-important twists are revealed, the
night she sees a face at her window, Hill House appears to Eleanor “vile”, domestic realm, reader might be more concerned about
“eyes gleaming like lamps, filled
with the light of death”; her creepy
“diseased”; the guests gathered to
witness the old mansion’s supernatural
these women things that go bump in the mind.
Charlotte Northedge is joint head of
neighbour’s undergrowth seems to
writhe with snakes: “she sees them
powers are tormented by late-night
hammering, deathly cold, wild laughter
see danger all books at the Guardian. Her second
novel, The People Before, is published
everywhere, their shadowed coils”. But in the corridors. Yet when Eleanor’s around them by HarperCollins.

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 69


CULTURE BOOKS
THE BOOKS OF MY LIFE The writer who endless description of

Kit Audiobook
changed my mind military strategy and
Gustave Flaubert horsemanship. I used to
changed my mind about insist on finishing any of the week
de Waal the power of words.
I read him aged 22,
without any idea of who
book I started. Now I
give it a really good 100
pages but after that, Good Pop, Bad Pop
The author on pitying Shylock, he was, but in Madame
Bovary he put me right
unless it’s gripping me,
nope. Life is too short.
Jarvis Cocker
PENG UIN AUD IO, 6HR 3 9 MIN
being inspired by Flaubert there in Rouen, in a
and listening to Hemingway small world with the
dreams and dashed
The book I discovered
later in life

G
expectations of this The Old Man and the Sea ood Pop, Bad Pop finds the
woman caught in an by Ernest Hemingway. former Pulp frontman Jarvis
unhappy marriage. I had I listened to the Cocker sifting through dozens
never really “entered” audiobook narrated of old boxes in his loft and reflecting
into a book before. This by Donald Sutherland on what he finds. Given his attic is only
was the one that did it. when I was in my late three feet high and stretches the width
40s. What a book. of his house, the sorting process “feels
The book I came back to like mining. It’s dirty, uncomfortable
I remember reading The book I am work.” But it is also rewarding, as he
Revenge of the Middle- currently reading unearths ancient keepsakes from his
Aged Woman when I Weird Fucks by Lynne youth, from a stick of chewing gum
thought I was middle Tillman. It’s not as weird and an old sweatshirt bought from a
aged – I was 42. Then I as I thought it would jumble sale to a well-thumbed book of
got divorced and read it be but it’s clever and dirty jokes, many of which flew over
again. Oh, I see. It had arresting. It was written his head at the time. Through these
a wisdom I had not in the 70s and chronicles childhood artefacts, we get a series of
seen before and all the some fleeting and some Adrian Mole-ish snapshots of Cocker’s
brilliance and wit found meaningful sexual pre-fame, pre-art college life, when
a home in me. I am relationships. It’s he was called “a four-eyed get” by
grateful to Elizabeth conversational and classmates on account of his glasses –
Buchan for that book. sweet, written by a which was nothing next to what they
It was a balm. woman who knows called him when his mum sent him
what she wants – most to school wearing lederhosen.
The book I reread of the time. Listeners to Cocker’s old show on
I listened to Old Filth BBC 6 Music will be familiar with his
by Jane Gardam on My comfort read verbal style, which is wryly self-
My earliest The book that changed audiobook some years The Temporary deprecating and wonderfully intimate.
reading memory me as a teenager ago. It’s a wonderful Gentleman by Sebastian Along with the sounds of him trudging
Being bored, either For English literature performance of the Barry. I have never up the stairs and rummaging through
reading the Bible or we had to read The text by Bill Wallace. known any writer boxes, the audio version comes with a
something at school, the Merchant of Venice. I listened again in squeeze as much poetry digital folder containing photographs
slow procession around I was very affected by lockdown – to disappear into plain words. His of his attic discoveries, which also
the class, three pages the way everyone in the from the horrors of books are things that include an exercise book entitled The
aloud for each child, class and apparently the times. dissolve slowly on Pulp Master Plan containing an early
The Mill on the Floss or everyone in Venice the tongue. blueprint for a band that would make
some such. When I was hated Shylock. To me The book I could “offbeat pop songs” and wear Oxfam
15, there was Dickens he was underdog, not never read again Kit de Waal’s memoir blazers and “rancid ties”. Essentially
– Great Expectations, villain. I think I also I read War and Peace Without Warning and a memoir in disguise, Good Pop,
Miss Hav isham, the picked up on the and quite enjoyed it. Only Sometimes (Tinder) Bad Pop pieces together the tale of
rags-to-riches-to-rags, racism, which, to be But I wouldn’t have the is shortlisted in the a bookish schoolboy slowly finding
great, rollicking fair, Shakespeare did patience for that size 2022 Books Are My his look, his sound and his place in
adventure of it all. address, but still … of book now, or the Bag readers’ awards. the world. Fiona Sturges

Further listening
Tom Gauld Black and British:
A Forgotten History
David Olusoga
M ACMILLIAN DIGITAL AUDIO, 24HR 2 7 MIN
Kobna Holdbrook-Smith narrates
Olusoga’s sweepingly comprehensive
and frequently poignant history
of Black Britons.
SAR AH LEE/ THE GUARDIAN

Making a Scene
Constance Wu
SIM ON & SCHUS T ER AUD IO, 7 HR 5 3MIN
The star of Crazy Rich Asians
reads her book of essays about life
in suburban Virginia and her
path to fame.

7 0 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


whittled down a massive range of vaccine
candidates  and helped refi ne their ingredients. With
their help, the world will soon have two effective
vaccines against malaria, which kills hundreds of
thousands of people every year, as well as the fi rst
vaccines against RSV, which kills tens of thousands of
infants each year.
But not all diseases are like these ones. We don’t
always know the dangers volunteers might face; we
don’t always have treatments ready. What then? How
does someone consent to risks that remain hard to
quantify? How should they be compensated for taking
those risks?

W
E C OU L D, of course, just avoid
these questions entirely, and rely
on other types of research. But
that doesn’t always work:
sometimes, animal testing is
tricky and uninformative ,
because the disease doesn’t develop in the same way
as it would in humans. For human trials, such as those
looking at the effectiveness of a vaccine against Zika,
it can take tens of thousands of people and several years
to run a single study, because only a fraction of the
participants in the placebo group will ever develop the
disease, making it hard to see how much difference the
THE BIG IDEA drug or vaccine would make.

Should we give people


In contrast, challenge trials can be deeply informative
within weeks, with far fewer volunteers. And the
stakes can be staggeringly high. It’s easy for us to

diseases to develop cures?


grasp the risks that volunteers might face after being
injected with a pathogen, but harder to keep in mind
how many people suffer from diseases every day,
and how many lives would be saved if a treatment or
With the right ethical safeguards, could ‘challenge trials’ vaccine were developed and rolled out sooner. Take
the Covid-19 pandemic. At the end of last year, as the
defend against future pandemics, asks Saloni Dattani death toll is  estimated to have reached about 17.8
million, it’s also estimated that 20 million had been
saved by vaccines. In the years to come, they will
hopefully save millions more. The burden of suffering
relieved by vaccines is immense – and the faster they

I
N T H E 17 70 s, an English doctor called Edward on prisoners: while some were injected with plague arrive, the better.
Jenner noticed that milkmaids didn’t seem and tetanus toxin, others had their limbs amputated – In order to make sure we are as protected as possible
to  catch smallpox, the terrifying disease both as a form of torture and a way to train army from current and future threats, we should try to
that caused around a third of the people who surgeons for the battlefield. The grotesque crimes eliminate the stigma that still haunts challenge
caught it to die. He thought that their frequent committed by the Nazis under the guise of scientific trials, making them a more familiar part of our toolkit.
exposure to cowpox, a similar but less severe research are well known. What if we thought of the act of volunteering to be
virus, might be what protected them. In order to test But this poisonous history shouldn’t blind us to the infected not as a rather peculiar and reckless thing to
his hypothesis he gave his gardener’s eight-year-old extraordinary power of challenge trials under strict do? What if we thought of volunteers more like fi rst
son cowpox and then deliberately infected him with conditions based on informed consent and designed responders who rush to help during a disaster? What
smallpox to see if he had become immune. He had, to be as safe as possible. They could become increasingly if  we recognised the sacrifices they made on our
and Jenner successfully repeated the experiment. important weapons in the armoury of medical behalf by holding them in especially high regard, like
“Vaccination”, from the Latin word for cow, soon research ,  in an era when vaccine technology is fi refighters or paramedics, rewarding them not just
became commonplace. advancing and the threat of diseases jumping from with money, but with recognition, long-term support
It was of course highly irresponsible to expose a animals into human beings is increasing. and respect?
child to a deadly disease with no sure knowledge that Much has been done to mitigate the risks: challenge Perhaps the greatest reward of all would be to
he would survive. Even so, with hindsight, we can see trials designed to advance malaria research have make sure their efforts were worthwhile: by designing
that the benefits were immense: the vaccine was safe proved to be very safe, because the disease is now trials to be open and transparent, applying them
and highly effective. Demonstrating that fact and well  understood and can be treated easily under when and where they might make a real difference,
publicising it encouraged untold numbers of others close supervision. For tuberculosis, trials have used and  developing the tools to learn as much from
to follow suit. the mild BCG vaccine as the challenge, instead of the them as possible. In short, by helping them to save
This is an example – albeit an unusual one – of a actual bacteria. For respiratory syncytial virus (RSV), thousands, if not millions of lives.
“challenge trial”. That is a form of research where, researchers have recruited adults who are at a low risk Saloni Dattani is a researcher at King’s College London
rather than relying on data from natural infections, we of severe illness. These experiments have already and a founding editor of Works in Progress.
deliberately expose someone to a disease in order to
test the effectiveness of a vaccine or treatment. Things
have changed a lot since Jenner’s time, of course. Even Further reading War Against Vaxxers The
so, there’s the lingering sense that there’s something Three books for Smallpox Sarah Mosquito
unethical about making someone ill on purpose. That’s Michael Gilbert and Timothy
not surprising – even in relatively recent history, deeply
a deeper dive Bennett Catherine Winegard
sinister medical experiments have been carried out CA MBRID G E , Green T E X T, £ 12 .9 9
that bear a superficial resemblance to this kind of work. £ 2 9.9 9 HODDER &
During the second world war, for example, imperial STOUGHTON, £20

Japan set up a network of secret facilities to experiment

Illustration: Elia Barbieri The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 7 1


LIKE YOU MEAN IT

Beds, Sofas and Supplies for Champion Loafers


LIFE
ON THE
ADVICE TRAVEL
Help! My Skiing on
partner a budget?

VEG
keeps pet Head to
worms Scotland
PA G E 8 0 PA G E S 9 0 - 9 3

The best diet for


you and the planet
LIFESTYLE

Shop with the seasons, eat more plants –


and use the microwave: how to boost your
health, and save the planet, one forkful at
a time. By scientist Tim Spector

Photography: Michael Hedge


Food stylist: Rhea Thierstein

from eggs, clams or mussels and chicken – the most and trout, come from non-sustainable aquatic farms.
Less meat, more plants sustainable farmed animal products – once a week. Use a local fishmonger or supermarket fish
The simplest way to reduce your personal carbon In 2017, I visited the Hadza people in Tanzania counter you trust and can ask questions. Mussels and
footprint is to go vegan. Growing beef takes as much and measurably improved my gut microbiome clams are healthy, largely sustainable and very tasty.
as 100 times more land than growing peas or soya to diversity in just three days by eating all the plants
produce the same amount of protein. I’ve reduced and seeds, fruits and nuts that they eat in one week
my meat consumption to some local, organic – along with the odd porcupine. The dairy dilemma
grass-fed red meat or a roast chicken as an Dairy is a massive cause of global heating, and its
occasional treat once or twice a month. This allows health benefits, such as improving calcium intake
me to enjoy meat as part of my diet at a more Go organic, even just a little and strengthening bones, have been overplayed.
sustainable level. Herbicides were generally considered safe before we There are plenty of better sources of calcium, for
Studies have demonstrated no differences in gut realised the importance of microbes, both to the soil example, sesame seeds and tahini, dark-green leafy
health between vegans, vegetarians and occasional and our guts and immune systems. Our own data vegetables and calcium-set tofu. Although dairy
meat-eaters. The single most important dietary has shown the power of a healthy diet and alternatives are better overall for greenhouse
factor we found for better gut health was the microbiome to protect against severe disease. emissions, they can cause other problems; the
number of different plants we eat weekly, with 30 a Pesticides and herbicides are designed to disrupt excessive amount of water used to create almond
week being the optimal number. natural ecosystems, reducing biodiversity and milk and its harmfulness to bees, for example.
That might sound like a lot until you realise that degrading our soils, impacting our water life and the Others, such as soya and oat milks, can be highly
this also includes mushrooms, spices, nuts, seeds, survival of insects. We ingest these chemicals in processed.
herbs and legumes. Simply using a sofrito base of small amounts every day and they are hard to avoid, Personally, the only milk I haven’t given up is
onions, garlic, olive oil and carrots when cooking, especially with plant-based diets. fermented milk, known as kefir, which I make
and adding some mixed beans or lentils to your While it’s beneficial to only buy organic foods myself and have a little shot of every day for my
pasta sauce or a spice mix to your cooking, or where possible, the current level of organic farming gut microbiome.
sprinkling mixed nuts and seeds on your yoghurt, is insufficient to produce enough food for us all. And
can rapidly boost this number. that’s not to mention the difference in price. Buy
local and seasonal ingredients that stay fresher for Make it personal
longer. It’s worth prioritising certain foods: I always The fact is, there is no one diet that suits us all. But
Ditch ultra-processed meat alternatives buy organic strawberries, oats, spinach and apples as the rapidly emerging field of personalised nutrition
Unfortunately, many vegans over-rely on high-salt non-organic varieties tend to have the highest levels (led by companies including ZOE, which I co-
and fatty ultra-processed foods that are bad for us of herbicides. founded) suggests that, by predicting which foods
and the environment (some produced in large, best suit our body, we can reduce sugar and fat peaks
energy-intensive factories). Newer production in our blood and improve our gut health. We can feel
methods, such as cell-cultured “meat”, “fish” and Cook smarter (and use the microwave) better, have more energy and feel less hungry – all
even “cheese” are on the horizon, and are likely to We can reduce cooking-fuel consumption and without discussing calories.
be more environmentally friendly. preserve the beneficial chemicals in food by But as we wait for technology including apps,
Brands like Symplicity (currently stocking harnessing the power of microbes to ferment and at-home tests and continuous glucose monitors to
restaurants nationwide and soon to be available to preserve leftover vegetables. help us eat more healthily, we can make positive
consumers) use large scale vats to ferment organic Kimchi, for example, uses cabbage, green veg, changes by following the broad approaches
vegetables with no artificial additives, making garlic and chillies, while heating food in a described here. Meanwhile, listen to your body and
“meatballs” and “burgers” that benefit our gut microwave saves energy while generally eat more of what makes you feel good.
microbiome and with near zero waste. maintaining the nutrient content. I now microwave a
whole potato instead of baking it, and steam spinach
in the microwave too. Give yourself a break
Choose pulses over animal protein Nobody’s perfect, and the enjoyment of food, and
We worry too much about protein. It’s pulses, beans the social interaction that comes with it, can be as
and lentils that help centenarian populations in Fish has been overhyped important as environmental and health considerations.
some cultures outlive the rest of us. This is due to The science on fish has changed, and it is now clear Even small positive changes can go a long way.
their high-fibre, protein, mineral and polyphenol that the health benefits of fish and omega-3 fats
content (polyphenols are the plant chemicals that have been overrated. Studies of omega-3 Food for Life by Tim Spector is published by Vintage
help our gut microbes). supplements show no clinical benefit unless you’re (£20). To support the Guardian, order your copy for
We need iron and iodine, zinc and vitamin B-12 to pregnant or have had a recent heart attack. Plus £17.40 at guardianbookshop.com. Join the waiting list
be healthy, but most of us can easily absorb these most fish we now eat in the UK, including salmon for the ZOE app at joinzoe.com

7 6 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


18 foods to boost your health – and the planet’s

Kale The posterboy of vegetables: healthy for your


gut and the planet, and easy to grow at home.

Red split lentils Easy to cook, high in protein, fibre


and iron, great for our microbiome and very
affordable. An easy addition to soups and sauces,
and great for young children and babies. They can be
grown all year – and help fix nitrogen into the soil.

Chickpeas High in protein and prebiotic fibres. Tinned


chickpeas are great in curries, hummus or to roast in
the oven as a high-fibre snack. Can also be made into
a tofu by blending with water and setting. Good for a
healthy gut and planet as they are climate resilient.

Soya beans Easy to grow and surprisingly high in


protein. Great as a snack or to add to dishes.

Nuts Great source of fibre, protein and polyphenols.


Improve health when consumed regularly and
improve blood glucose control. They also require
less intensive farming methods.

Mushrooms An underrated source of a multitude of


nutrients: mushrooms may reduce chronic disease,
improve our vitamin D levels and are a great source
of vegetable protein while hav ing a neutral or even
negative carbon footprint.

Berries Blueberries, raspberries and blackberries


can be frozen when in season locally, reducing the
transport of berries across continents. Cheap ones are
as good as expensive types for fibre and polyphenols.

Barley and buckwheat Whole grains are excellent for


longevity and health: nutritious, delicious and with
fewer readily available starches causing fewer blood
sugar spikes. (Not quinoa, as this not only causes
greater sugar spikes, but also impacts Peruvian
farmers as they grow masses of quinoa instead of
other diverse indigenous plants to meet demand.)

Clams and mussels Sustainable and ethical seafood


filled with potassium, iron and vitamin B12.

Organic eggs A great source of protein, as well as


omega fatty acids, essential vitamins and amino
acids. We should aim to eat two to six a week.

One small chicken Planet-friendly when eaten for its


meat and the carcass used to make a broth. Chicken
is the most sustainable farmed meat.

Sauerkraut and kimchi Naturally probiotic foods


that turn unwanted scrap vegetables into a delicious
addition to your meal. High in beneficial fermentation
products and prebiotic fibres, and cheap to make.

Broccoli Hundreds of beneficial chemicals that have


Berries can be proven health benefits. Better when steamed with
extra virgin olive oil and eaten with vitamin C-rich
frozen when in foods such as tomatoes to aid nutrient absorption. A
sturdy plant that grows well in all climates.
season locally,
reducing Aromatic herbs and spices Packed with polyphenols,
even in small amounts they add to the diversity of
transport across our fibre intake. Minimal impact on the environment
thanks to being easily grown at home. Add a spice
continents mix to any dish to help your gut microbes •

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 7 7


LIFESTYLE
Jessie
32, nurse (right)
What were you hoping for?
To meet someone new and interesting.
Romance would be a bonus.

First impressions?
M AT C H M A K I N G G U A R D I A N R E A D E R S S I N C E 2 0 0 9 Maddy Vibrant, warm and friendly. And
39, marketing coach (left) impressively blue hair.
‘We were the last people in the place,
and I don’t think it was just the meal What were you hoping for?
A fun evening, a good story and not to
What did you talk about?
How to go appropriately overboard on
and cocktails keeping us there!’ be embarrassingly bad on a date
reported in a national newspaper.
a fancy dress theme. The perils of
having an expressive face in photos.
Her disdain for gelatinous foods.
First impressions?
Pretty, warm, bubbly. Any awkward moments?
Not from my view point.
What did you talk about?
Best fancy dress costumes. Favourite Good table manners?
stories from this column. The best way Very much so.
to eat Colin the Caterpillar. The royal
family. Charity shop finds. Cities we’ve Best thing about Maddy?
lived in. Best friends. Crumble. Enthusiasm for all topics. I really want
to go to one of her fancy dress parties
Any awkward moments? – all the ideas are wasted otherwise!
Maybe one, when I was sad there was
no cheese platter for dessert. Would you introduce Maddy to
your friends?
Good table manners?
Go Yeah, I reckon she could hold her own.
I didn’t
d notice anything. I ate chips with
my hands: she didn’t appear to mind. Describe Maddy in three words.
Vibrant, chatty, friendly.
Best thing about Jessie?
Be
She’s clearly a people person. I was
Sh What do you think Maddy made
also very envious of her jewellery.
als of you?
That I’m loud, but everyone always
Would you introduce Jessie to
Wo thinks that. I think we got on well.
your friends?
yo
For sure, they’d get on well.
Fo Did you go on somewhere?
Nope ... I had work very, very early the
Describe Jessie in three words.
De next morning.
Fun, warm, spontaneous.
Fu
And ... did you kiss?
What do you think Jessie made of you?
Wh Just a hug.
Hopefully warm and kind, but we
Ho
agreed we were on best behaviour. We
agr If you could change one thing about
were the last people in the place, so I
we the evening, what would it be?
don’t think it was just the meal and
do Not having work the next day: we’d
cocktails keeping us there!
coc have gone for a dance and a margarita.

Did you go on somewhere? Marks out of 10?


Sadly not, as we both had work the
Sad Nine. It was a lovely night, good food
next morning. Otherwise, we said we’d
ne and cocktails.
have headed to Soho for more cocktails.
hav
Would you meet again?
And ... did you kiss?
An Yeah, for sure. As I said, we need the
Just a hug, but we swapped numbers
Jus tequila and dance part of the evening.
D AV I D L E V E N E & C H R I S T I A N S I N I B A L D I / T H E G U A R D I A N

and a promise to go out again.


an
Jessie and Maddy ate at the Chelsea Pig,
you could change one thing about
If y London SW3. Fancy a blind date? Email
the evening, what would it be? blind.date@theguardian.com
To wear looser trousers so I could
enjoy more of the amazing food.
enj

Marks out of 10?


Ma
I’m going to go for 8 (awkward if she
gives me a three now!)
giv

Would you meet again?


Wo
Absolutely. We swapped numbers and
Ab
agreed to go on a night out where we
agr
could relax a bit more.
cou

7 8 | SAT
S AT URDAY
UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardia
Guardian
an
I’m hoping
I
pass my wife on the stairs with the great thing about a walled town: another call. The taxi from the airport
a bag. no matter how lost you get, you took only an hour, but that was in the
“Did you pack an adaptor?” eventually come to a wall. middle of the night, and the Croatian
I say. On our penultimate day we realise driver was able to cross the border.

the driver “Two,” she says.


“Have you already got my
passport?” I say.
our return coincides with a rail strike.
We spend the afternoon trying to work
out how to get home from Gatwick.
Today, there is considerable traffic.
I recall that it was me who uttered the
cavalier words: “I don’t know, 10.15?”

has one of “This thing where you double-


check everything I do is new,” she
says. “And I don’t like it.”
“The bus we want is full,” my wife
says, looking at her phone. “The next
unfull bus is two hours later.”
We pull up to the border at the back
of a queue of cars that stretches round
a sharp bend.

those signs
I don’t like it either, but it’s “I’m seizing the initiative,” I say, “How long is this queue?” my wife
important. My wife likes to manage all looking at my laptop. “A driver will says.
travel arrangements herself, but she’s pick us up.” “About 800 metres,” the driver

with my
not as anxious about travelling as I am, “How much is that?” she says. says. “It’s bad.”
and consequently not as thorough. “I’m not going to tell you,” I say. In the five minutes of silence that
“And when was the last time “But I hope he has a sign with my name follows I try to calculate how long it
anything went wrong?” she says. on it. That’s always been my dream.” will take to reach the barrier at our

name on it “The last time we were at an


airport,” I say. On that day she fished
through her sheaf of documents and
Next morning the owner of our
accommodation arranges our taxi to
the airport, texting to explain that the
current rate of travel, but this is
impossible because in that time we
don’t move at all.
presented me with a printed A4 page. Montenegrin driver has to leave us at Suddenly the driver reverses and
“What’s this?” I said. the Croatian border, to be picked up by turns around.
“Your boarding pass,” she said. another taxi. “It’s normal,” he writes. “OK,” he says. “We go to the other
“Why does it say ‘This Is Not A “What time do we want picking border.”
Boarding Pass’ across the top?” up?” my wife asks. My wife and I look at each other,
“Mine doesn’t say that,” she said. “I don’t know – 10.15?” I say. thinking: the other border?
Her whole approach, I tell her, is At 10.15 the driver meets us by the The driver places many calls while
that of someone trying to fix it so she town wall. As we drive he keeps driving very quickly up a winding
accidentally goes on holiday alone. calling his Croatian counterpart. He mountain road. Twenty minutes later
“Actually, I think I might prefer sounds increasingly agitated. we reach a barrier with one border
that,” she says. “What time is your flight?” he asks. guard and a queue of two cars. Five
“It’s our 30th anniversary mini- “It’s at 1.40,” my wife says. He minutes later we are in a neutral zone,
break,” I say. “How’s it gonna look if exhales, shakes his head and places being exchanged like spies.
I don’t come?” “I was a bit worried when I saw
Thanks to my last-minute, backseat that queue,” my wife says as we
micromanagement, the trip proceeds board our plane.
without a hitch, documentation-wise. “I know,” I say. “I went temporarily
Tim Dowling But a lot of other things go wrong. Delay We are in the blind.”
On modern life is piled upon delay, culminating in a
hairy aborted landing at Dubrovnik. neutral zone on the
We arrive at Gatwick to a call from
our driver, who says he’s waiting in the
We arrive in Montenegro at midnight,
with very little wind in our sails.
Montenegro-Croatia smoking area outside. I step through
the doors and look, this way and that.
But next morning the walled town
of Kotor glints in the October sun, and
border, being “I can’t see you,” I say.
“Really?” he says. “I’m holding a
we soon find our way around. That’s exchanged like spies sign with your name on it.”

Edith Pritchett On millennial life

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 7 9


LIFESTYLE
STYLE ADVICE

The prosecution
You be Leandra
I like nature, just not in my
the judge living room. The worms
get everywhere – and
Should my the food scraps stink

partner get During lockdown, my partner Cindy


and I were stuck at home, bored like
everyone else, so started developing

rid of our new hobbies. Cindy thought it would


be fun to get a wormery and keep it on
the balcony of our flat.

lockdown Our council doesn’t take food


waste, so it was going to be a good way
to be more eco-friendly, passing our

wormery? food scraps on to the worms. We had


grand ideas of transforming the
balcony, filling it with amazing plants
and flowers. That didn’t happen, but
we still have a large wormery, which
has become a pain. When the worms
Interviews: arrived, a couple escaped from the
Georgina Lawton bag. I came home once, saw them on
the floor, and said, “What the hell is
this?” I like nature, but not in my
living room. When we go away, I have
this anxiety they might escape again.
I’m also worried about them falling
through cracks in our balcony.
The leftover food is also an issue.
We keep it in boxes and it quickly turns
rotten and mouldy. I convinced Cindy
to keep the box on the balcony, so it
wouldn’t stink indoors, but she’d find
excuses not to take it out. If it was
raining, she wouldn’t want to. Then she
suggested putting our scraps through
the blender – she said mixing the
eggshells and vegetables together
would actually be better for the
worms. Cindy never even uses the
blender to cook for herself, so I said no.
This summer lots of the worms died
as it was so hot. Cindy was sad. I didn’t
rejoice as they are living creatures, but
did say: “Maybe the wormery isn’t a good
idea?” I suggested contacting schools,
parks and the council to see if they’d take
it. Cindy hasn’t contacted anyone yet.
We spent the first year of lockdown
growing things. Since then it’s been a
question of: “Shall we do the balcony
or go out with friends?” We’ve picked
the latter. When I suggest moving the
wormery, Cindy makes a really sad
face and it breaks my heart. But if we
keep the wormery, we should improve
the whole balcony like we planned, as
right now it’s the same old – only with
a messy box of worms on it.

8 0 | S AT
T URDAY
UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian
My lover says
to how people go into relationships –

The defence The jury for it’s often how they exit them too.
I went to psychotherapist Fe
of Guardian readers
Cindy
The wormery is an eco- Should the wormery stay or go?
he can’t leave Robinson (psychotherapy.org.uk), who
said: “Initially, you knew it was a fling
and I’m really curious: at that stage,
friendly slice of nature.
And it doesn’t stink – it
Maintaining a messy hobby just in case his wife and what did you want from it? Was it just
a bit of fun? You were attracted to this
man who you knew wasn’t available,
child for me.
there’s another lockdown is pretty
smells of the woods unreasonable. Though it sounds like the which makes me wonder about your
rotting food is more of an issue than the emotional availability.”
The wormery is great. I love it. You put
food waste in there and the worms
help break it down. Yes, it’s a bit
worms themselves, and Cindy seems to
be very nonchalant about that.
Laura, 30
Is he being Often, but not always, people go for
unavailable people – however
subconsciously – if they want to keep a
disgusting: it’s not what most people
dream about, but it’s a slice of nature
on your balcony. And it’s good for the
The wormery is a nice idea in principle
but it’s not really working on the balcony
dishonest? relationship on a “fantasy” level. It
doesn’t seem as if your time together
has been about real, ordinary, boring
environment. of their flat post-lockdown. It seems like life. No wonder your relationship
We have always kept our food waste it’s hard work – which Cindy is not compares so unfavourably with that
in plastic boxes. The food has to be wholly committed to. with his wife. As Robinson pointed
quite rotten for the worms to eat, as Chris, 68 out: “This isn’t going to suddenly
they don’t have teeth, so when we kept become simpler if he leaves his wife.
the boxes inside, I’d wait for the food The wormery is Cindy’s hobby, and it You’d potentially be managing an
to become really mouldy before seems it’s only a mild inconvenience to aggrieved ex-wife and you’d be
putting it in the wormery. In the Leandra. The issue could be solved by stepmother to his young child.”
summer, as we had the windows open, getting a sealed outdoor compost bin for Robinson further noted: “Even if he
flies came in. So I started to put the the food scraps. I think by working were available, three months is a really
food straight outside. I agreed to
that change, but I don’t like to go on to
together to improve their balcony, and
making the wormery a fun feature, they
Ask short time to make a decision about a
life partner. We don’t really know
the balcony when it rains. I do try
to hide the mess so Leandra doesn’t
could both be happy.
Zoe, 35
Annalisa Barbieri someone yet; we’re still at that heady
hormonal rush stage. Especially if it’s
get annoyed. an affair, because you will have had
The worms have only broken free Cindy is guilty of instigating the less time together.”
once, so it isn’t a huge deal, but I can’t wormery and then failing to take I’ve been having an affair for three But there’s another thing to think
guarantee that it won’t happen again. responsibility for its conservancy. months with my co-worker, who is about beyond the dishonesty to his
One time Leandra got annoyed as she Nonetheless, with regard to Leandra’s married with a two-year-old. When it wife and, very probably, you too. “Do
was repotting a plant on the balcony anxiety about further escape attempts, began, I knew that men never leave you want,” asked Robinson, “to be
and found some worms in the soil, but worms are not known for their agility or the wife for the mistress, but I’ve with someone who deals with
they are good for the plants. ingenuity. It should be a fairly simple started seeing how strongly he feels problems by having an affair instead of
Worms eat the leftover food, then task to contain them. for me and I for him. working it through? People have
poop it out as a free source of high- Jon, 55 He says he’s always thinking about affairs for lots of reasons; it doesn’t
quality plant nutrients. The wormery me, cannot enjoy his time at home any always mean they want to leave their
doesn’t stink; it smells like the woods. I think the wormery was a lockdown longer, and just longs to be with me. main relationship.”
I like the scent. hobby that has outstayed its welcome. We finally had the talk a few days ago, You didn’t tell me your age. I’ve
I notice when the worms are While I love the creativity of the idea, and he said he cannot leave his wife seen many people waste time waiting
reproducing, and I like watching how something as disruptive as this needs right now as we’ve been seeing each for their married “partner” to make up
they act together to break down the passion from both parties to sustain it. other for too short a time (they’ve their minds, with the other person
food. I look at the fluctuation in their It sounds like it’s making Leandra been together for 11 years). He says he putting what they want on the back
activities, how they behave in anxious and resentful, and may have a is bored with her and wants to be with burner. What do you want? Was an
different temperatures. I was very sad negative impact on their relationship. me, but he can’t leave his daughter. unavailable, dishonest man on your
when loads of them died in the Rushda, 36 (I have made it clear I would never ask wish list? I’m sorry to sound harsh, but
heatwave this summer. The colony him to give her up.) it’s because I think you deserve more.
almost became extinct. I haven’t felt this strongly about I understand about finding yourself
I’ve already inspired one colleague anybody in a long time, but the fact somewhere you didn’t plan to be, but
to get a wormery. He gave me the idea THE VERDICT that he thinks three months is too you’re here and you’ve written to me.
for blending the scraps. It would Guilty Cindy can’t worm her way out of this 4 short a time to make a decision, and He won’t be in a rush to do anything as
increase the output of the colony if Not guilty The worms can stay 1 he’d rather stay in an unhappy he has the stability of his “boring”
Leandra would let me do that, but I marriage, makes me think he is not home life and the exciting mistress. I
understand why she sa id no. being honest with me. would get some distance if I were you
I think we both need to make an and remember this truth: if a man
effort if we want a nicer balcony, but I actually think him saying he hasn’t really wants to be with you, he will be.
the wormery has made it better. known you for long enough is the
Leandra would really like to get rid of You’ve heard the cases, honest bit. I think the rest of it shows If you would like advice from Annalisa
it, but you never know when the next now you decide ... some delusion on his part and yours. on a personal matter, please email
lockdown will be, so I think it’s Scan to vote on this week’s dispute, While of course there are exceptions, ask.annalisa@theguardian.com.
important to keep it. share your own, or be one of the jury experience has taught me to pay heed See theguardian.com/letters-terms

Illustration: Ilse Weisfelt The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 81


LIFESTYLE STYLE

Whatever
disciplined character type, therefore
to be displayed whenever possible.
A statement sleeve is a bit like

its shape, let having impressive triceps – it makes


you look instantly up to date, and as if
you have made an effort – and you

a statement don’t even have to go to yoga. The


interesting sleeve phenomenon is an
inclusive trend, too. An oversized or
sleeve do all fluted sleeve pretty much looks the
same on anyone, which isn’t the case

the talking for, say, skinny jeans.


Different shapes send different
messages, and perhaps it’s time to
attempt a taxonomy of the statement
sleeve. A puffed sleeve can be light and
airy, the sort of thing Snow White
wore, choux-bun sweet and best
accessorised with a pet bluebird. Or, a
it can be linebacker-wide and
dramatic, adding a Henry V III heft
across the shoulder. These are both
M O D E L: M E I M E I AT M I L K . H A I R A N D M A K E- U P: C A R O L M O R L E Y AT C A R O L H AY E S M A N A G E M E N T. T O P: E S S E N T I E L A N T W E R P. P O L O N E C K : N E X T. T R O U S E R S: H & M

puffed sleeves, but they send very


different fashion messages.
A sleeve that gives an angular
shoulder always make you look like
you mean business, while lots of soft
fabric suggests sweetness and light.
Which is why those leg-of-mutton
sleeves that were big in the 1980s
Jess Cartner-Morley (Diana’s wedding dress, for instance)
look a bit bonkers, as the messages
On trends cross over. They are part Wall Street
trader, part Disney princess.
A bishop sleeve is full all the way
down, and cinched at the wrist, while

T
here are flutes and there a balloon sleeve has most volume in
are trumpets. There are the middle, around the elbow,
milkmaids and bishops. tapering along the forearm. The
Anne Boleyn has skin in rounder, more balanced the shape, the
the name game, as does softer the effect. A fluted sleeve gets
FitzRoy Somerset, 1st Flute and bell sleeves are intriguing – a wider from top to bottom, while a bell
Baron Raglan. I’m talking about
sleeves. The statement sleeve has been
little less garden party and a bit more sleeve is slim from shoulder to elbow,
then widens to, well, a bell. The flute
the hardiest fashion silhouette of the
past decade. The swinging 60s had the
art gallery, if you know what I mean and the bell have a different vibe from
a puffed sleeve – a little more
miniskirt; now we have the mega- unexpected, a little more intriguing.
sleeve. Because there are endless (Anne Boleyn’s were fluted.) Are you
shapes and sizes of sleeve, it feels like following this? In short, a little less
a different look every season. garden party and bit more art gallery,
Shoulders were sharp a few years ago; if you know what I mean.
last year was all about puff. But what The statement sleeve is brilliantly
we have here is one overarching trend: easy to wear until you try and put on a
a statement sleeve has become a key jacket or a coat. The sausage-stuffed
detail that makes an outfit look modern. sensation of wearing bishop sleeves
Cast your mind back, and you will under a tailored coat would test the
recall a time before that when sleeves patience of, well, at least a bishop, if
were, well, arm-shaped, and their only not an actual saint.
notable detail was whether they were This is a fashion problem, and the
short or long. Long sleeves were what only solution to a fashion problem is a
you wore on cold days or if you didn’t
like your arms. Short sleeves were for
This is appropriate
Flutes and bell sleevesdummy
are fashion one. Sleeveless knits are
everywhere this autumn, precisely
summer, or all year round if you had text that is beingThis
intriguing: a little lessisgarden because this is a brilliant top layer when
Michelle Obama-ish triceps, widely you need something warm that won’t
understood to be the external appropriate dummy
party, a bit more art text
gallery cramp your style. Since style is what
manifestation of a dynamic and highly this arms race is all about.

Photography: Tom J Johnson. Styling: Melanie Wilkinson The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 8 5
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LIFESTYLE BODY

Solid Anita Bhagwandas


Trends on trial
perfumes Siren eyes: is there a
better way to get the
are the classic eyeliner flick?
perfect
travelling The hack
The perfect feline eyeliner flick
remains one of the most popular

companion makeup looks of the post-war years,


but could it be eclipsed by the trend for
siren eyes? Many TikTokers,
YouTubers, Instagrammers and
celebrities seem to think so.

The test
Siren eyes are a smoky, softer version
of the upwards eyeliner flick. It’s more
subtle and also, crucially, easier to do,
as it needs less precision. Take a dark
brown or black eyeshadow, and using a
small angled brush, line your upper
lashes with shadow, as you would with
eyeliner. When you reach the outer
Sali Hughes corner of the eye, draw the shadow
On beauty slightly up and out, creating a soft
flick. Take a smaller smudging brush
to wing the line out even more, for that
sultry Sophia Loren style.

S
olid perfume is an If that seems too complicated, here’s
underrated marvel, and a simpler hack I use every day. Take a
the ingenious alternative very soft eyeliner pencil with a
to wrapping perfume smudger on the end, such as Victoria
bottles in socks, jumpers Beckham Satin Kajal Liner (£22), and
and plastic bags for travel. line the upper lashes. Then use the
They’re tiny enough to carry through smudger to flick the liner outwards
your day in a very small ha ndbag or and upwards. Voilà.
pocket, then quickly flipped open and
either dabbed on with fingertips or
This compact is built The scent inside the compact is
very easy to wear – an extremely The verdict
swiped across pulse points straight
from the packaging.
to last – handy, as its appealing paradox of fresh fizziness
and musky warmth – and also works
This is a solid win from me. It is
faster, easier and looks softer than
Jo Malone London’s Solid Cologne pleasing shape means brilliantly as an unobtrusive base for an eyeliner flick. If you’ve spent years
is a fantastically useful gift, and most other fragrances. trying – and failing – to make your
decent value when refilled over a long I can hardly put the The first solid perfume I ever liner symmetrical, this is the way
life. You kick off with a very clever,
sturdy and luxurious Solid Scent Duo
damn thing down bought was by Diptyque, the firm that
can fairly be credited with reinventing
forward. Plus, anything that can be
done competently after a few drinks
Palette with two sliding sides (£26), the category. The number of fragrances is a beauty hack worth sharing.
each housing a solid refill (£20) that of cardamom and incense. offered in its solid format is limited –
P H O T O G R A P H E R ’ S A S S I S TA N T: H A R R Y B R AY N E

can be swapped out in perpetuity. I’m steadfast in my belief that albeit to some of the best. The painted
Jo Malone is all about pairing and Glossier’s You is among the best Bakelite-style travel compact is pricey
layering fragrances, but even if you’re fragrances of the past decade, and I at £48, but comes loaded with
content with one at a time, this design continue to wear it often. So I’m fragrance and looks and feels suitably
allows you to pack two perfumes for a delighted the brand has reintroduced special, almost like jewellery.
trip away and still take up no more its solid version (£24), which allows for Refills are a reasonable £29 for two
suitcase space than a matchbox. afternoon top-ups while the glass identical pans. I wouldn’t hesitate in
Personally, I’d fill with Blackberry & bottle stays safely at home. It’s refilled choosing Philosykos, a figgy
Bay, a sharp, sophisticated fruity scent for a friendly £14, and again, the masterpiece, and L’Ombre dans L’eau,
for people who find most fruity scents compact is built to last, which is a mouthwatering blend of
a sweet, sticky abomination, and Dark handy, since its very pleasing pebble blackcurrants and fat, wet, velvety
Amber & Ginger Lily, the warm, shape means I can hardly put the roses that’s quietly seductive on
cosying but not overpowering aroma damn thing down. woman or man.

Photography: Kellie French. Illustration: Edith Pritchett The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 8 7
LIFESTYLE GARDENS

DO
THE
RIPE
THING

8 8 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


Small, traditional Community orchards
orchards are making a Where to start
comeback – providing
havens for wildlife, and An orchard can be made up of just five
trees, so a large space is not essential;
fruit can be grown vertically on walls,
bringing communities in pots or trained against a fence.
With more than 2,500 apple varieties
closer together in the UK, however, narrowing the
options can be difficult. Where possible,
include varieties historically local to
your area to help preserve genetic
Words: Matt Collins diversity. To support a wider range of
Photography: Liz Seabrook wildlife, consider other trees too: try
cherry, pear, damson and crab apple,

B
ack in spring, I moved with my family industry, volunteers chatted, odd litter was puzzled all of which provide spring blossom.
to the village of Overton in Hampshire. over, and volunteer Ken MacKenzie sharpened the Check pollination requirements, as
It happened that our arrival coincided Austrian scythe. Leading the group was orchard many apple and pear varieties require
with a May Day celebration in the custodian Emma Young, who, with her husband, compatible companions nearby to
village orchard. It was the ideal Steve, took on its management last year. “We have produce fruit. The vigour of a fruit tree
initiation: the sun shone, introductions an allotment and we love gardening, so it made depends on its rootstock: select to suit
with new neighbours were dusted with apple blossom, sense,” she says. “And it’s wonderful that our your plot size. The best time to plant
and our toddler joined others on an organised bug daughter can grow alongside the trees.” new fruit trees, particularly bare root
hunt, spotting insects hidden in the trees. Dedicated volunteers are essential, says Lewis – which is a cheaper and mormore
Like many community orchards, Overton’s is McNeill, London manager for the Orchard Project. effective option – is in late autumn.
ate autumn
situated on the edge of the village on council- “When people come to us, we’ll have an initial chat
managed land, an open patch bordering a housing to see if there are enough of them to take on a ‘James Grieve’
1
estate. It was conceived in 2012 by members of Overton long-term project. We offer leader training, which apple
Biodiversity Society to promote seasonal, local food covers key maintenance and aftercare tasks – new The all-rounder
and provide an inviting space for people and wildlife. trees will really struggle otherwise.” dessert apple: good
d
There was a consultation with neighbours, terms of After checking land ownership, assessing site and for eating, cooking,
ng,
maintenance were agreed with the council, and across soil, and working up an orchard design, the charity juicing and cider-making.
king.
two planting sessions 20 fruit trees were planted, assists with a winter planting day, when the trees are Gorgeous blossom.
staked and mulched by more than 50 volunteers. leafless and dormant. However, because of the climate
A decade on, the trees are maturing and this crisis, this dormancy period is changing. “Autumn is ‘Howgate
2
autumn apples hang from laden branches: ripening coming later and spring earlier,” McNeill says. To Wonder’ apple
russets, falstaffs and cooking costards, many ready combat this, they are planting trees better able to A self-fertile, large-
to harvest. There are dessert pears, cherries and cope with increasing heat and drought. “In London, fruited cooking apple e
damsons, too, trees selected not only for the quality with its microclimate, we’ve been successfully and a good nectar
of their fruit but as sources of nectar for pollinators. planting apricot and fig varieties for years and, more source for bees.
Not every village is as fortunate as Overton, recently, pomegranates and persimmons,” he says.
however. Earlier this year, the National Trust The planting days are a celebration, with ‘Victoria’
a’ plum
3
reported that 80% of England and Wales’s small volunteers often bringing food and mulled apple Reliable,
traditional orchards, regarded as particularly juice to fortify them for the heavy lifting. “People heritage-variety
ty
important for flora and fauna, have been lost since think about the fruits first,” McNeill says, “but the plum with sweet,et,
1900. The decline is attributed to neglect, urban real value comes from the connection to each other purple-yellow
development and agricultural modernisation. and to nature, at a time when we’ve got so much lack summer fruit.
Unlike commercial fruit farms, traditional of wellbeing, so many mental health issues.”
orchards are defined by their low-intensity As we packed away tools at Overton orchard, Black mulberry
err
rry
4
management and typically feature a mix of tree Emma Young said she viewed the project as an An ancient
types. Though small in scale, they are worth far investment. “Imagine what it’s going to look like in orchard staple with
more than the sum of their apples: they are 50 years. Whatever developments there are in the bountiful blood-red
community spaces and, according to the Woodland future, this will still be here for everybody. That’s fruit. Attractive to
Trust, provide the perfect habitat for a surprisingly what I’m really excited about.” insects and birds.
diverse range of wildlife. A traditional orchard can
support 1,800 species of plant, fungi and animal. ‘Stella’ cherry
5
Thankfully, there are signs of regrowth. In an age A self-fertile and
d
when locally sourced food and tree planting are sweet-fruiting cherry y
increasingly valued, community orchards are bearing white
making a comeback. The National Trust recently blossom in spring.
vowed to plant four million fruit trees, and is also
establishing new traditional orchards across its sites. For information on
And the Orchard Project – a charity that assists in the starting a community
ty
establishment and restoration of community orchard, visit
orchards – aims to have one within walking distance theorchardproject.org.uk
of every household in the UK’s towns and cities.
Since its formation in 2009, the charity has Volunteer Ken MacKenzie
planted and cared for more than 540 such spaces. I at Overton orchard, far
signed up as a volunteer and recently attended my left, where the trees
first maintenance session, trimming overgrown include the sweet plum,
hedges, clearing grass from the base of trees and in the foreground, left,
raking cuttings. Against a backdrop of cheerful and crab apple, top

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 8 9


LIFESTYLE TRAVEL

and lift pass in March with Ski


Still need your ski fix, even with the pound in Bag the best deals Solutions (skisolutions.com), a good
a slump? Here are our tips for skiing on a budget Snow-risky early December, the cold £600pp cheaper than at new year.
depths of January and the sunny end Inclusive deals that throw in ski
(sort of), including where, when and how to go of April are almost always the cheapest hire, lessons and lift passes are often
times to go. great value. Getmetothealps.com has
Get a heads-up on deals by signing seven nights half-board at Les Balcons

A good run for


up to newslettters from ski companies, de Val Thorens from £750pp all season,
such as Skiworld. A recent flash sale including a six-day lift pass (£50pp
had seven nights half-board at posh extra for the wider Trois Vallées pass)
Chalet Valluga (skiworld.co.uk), and equipment hire.
sleeping six in St Anton, Austria, for If you’re not fussy about a stylish

your money
about £745pp, departing mid- stay, trawl bargain sites such as
December on a self-drive holiday Igluski.com, which has a page on rail
including a Eurotunnel ticket. travel packages. We found seven nights
January bargains with Ski self-catering at Residence Cybele in
Weekends (skiweekends.com) Brides Les Bains – part of Trois Vallées
included four nights half-board at and linked to Méribel and Courchevel
Hotel les Fleurs in Morzine, with – for £639pp in January, or £682pp in
transfers from Geneva airport March, including Eurostar from
(connected to the railway station) for London, transfers and six-day lift pass.
Words: Gemma Bowes £330pp. Even the fancier places can Other sites let you search for
offer good value at the slushier end of accommodation and lift-pass combos,
the year. In La Plagne in France’s such as weski.co.uk and sunweb.co.
Paradiski ski area, we spied seven uk. We found bargains such as four
nights self-catering at White Pearl days B&B at Hotel Bel Horizon in
Lodge and Spa, with indoor pool, gym high-altitude Val Thorens from
and spa, from £970pp, including train £199pp, including lift pass, departing
from London to Moutiers, transfers mid-November.

9 0 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


Les Contamines – a family
ski resort in Mont Blanc,
France, left; Memmingen
in Bavaria, right: its airport
is a cheaper option than
Innsbruck or Munich

Off-radar resorts How to hack the school holidays


Smaller, lesser-known resorts are Those with kids will find the cheapest
typically cheaper, and many are ski holiday period is almost always
paradise for freeriders or beginners, Easter, when warmer weather and
just unfamiliar to Brits. longer days also make it more
Even pricey Switzerland has conducive to enjoyable learning.
bargain gems, such as Bettmeralp, a The UCPA (ucpa.co.uk), set up to
car-free resort in the Aletsch Arena ski make winter sports accessible to
area, easily accessed by rail, with a French youngsters, offers budget
gondola to the resort from the Betten packages that include meals,
station (see sbb.ch). The resort website equipment hire, lessons, lift passes
lists good-value accommodation (as do and basic accommodation in its own
many other resorts’ – another top tip) large-scale centres. You have to make
such as chalet Bärgsunna, where we your own bed and help tidy up, but
found seven nights self-catering for there’s a very sociable atmosphere.
four for less than £550 in mid- Great value are its family weeks in
December (shop.aletscharena.ch); a school holidays – a week in Flaine
six-day lift pass costs from £188-£233. departing 8 April costs £506 to £660
In France’s Haute Maurienne valley, for children depending on age, and
a six-day lift pass for Les Sybelles, with £815 for adults; or festive weeks in Les
six resorts and 136 pistes, is €209pp Contamines cost £716pp starting 24 or
(£183pp), and seven nights self-catering 31 December (action-outdoors.co.uk).
in Le Corbier, at the smart Etoile des Look out for resorts with deals such
Sybelles apartments with indoor and as free lift passes for kids: in Samoëns
outdoor pools and spa, costs from and Tignes in France they’re free for
£1,049 for four including Eurotunnel under-eights. A week from 24
crossing (peakretreats.co.uk). December in an apartment sleeping
Pays de Gex, a lower mountain area four at Residence Val Claret in Tignes
topping out at 900 metres between is £1,060 (powderbeds.com).
Lake Geneva and the Jura, has four If you have to go in February
small, mellow ski areas suitable for half-term, choose an off-radar resort or
beginners and families (six-day lift pass unusual accommodation such as
€172). Seven nights half-board at backcountry cabins listed on Austria’s
three-star Bois Joly Hotel ( boisjoly. Almliesl cabins website (almliesl.com),
com) in Crozet costs from £431pp. an Italian rifugio (rifugios.net) or
Italy and Austria tend to be cheaper mountain agriturismo (agriturismo
than France and Switzerland. Austria’s including Valnord lift pass, transfers The fairytale slopes of St valledaosta.com); these are often
SkiWelt Wilder Kaiser-Brixental (from Barcelona or Toulouse) and local Anton, Austria, above, is cheaper than a normal chalet or hotel.
(six-day pass €280, wilderkaiser.info) discounts (snowboardcoach.co.uk). where some of the best
is one of Europe’s largest resorts, with half-board deals can be
168 miles of slopes and 80 mountain bagged; raclette, below, a Getting there
huts and inns. In the village of Going, Eastern Europe … and beyond classic Swiss après-ski dish Flyers can save by choosing lesser-
Gatterhof is a farmhouse hotel with Bansko in Bulgaria has been the go-to known airports (such as Memmingen
rooms from €50 a night. alternative for a budget snow break for in Germany as an alternative to
decades, but Slovenia is the classier Innsbruck or Munich), but those more
option, where top resort Kranjska Gora committed to saving carbon must
Swap the Alps for the Pyrenees has 18 runs. On Airbnb we found an factor in Eurotunnel fees, fuel, toll
France’s other mountain range is not apartment sleeping four next to the ski roads and any overnight stays.
O T C O N TA M I N E S / L A N S A R D G I L L E S; A L A M Y; S T A N T O N; A L A M Y

short of thrills, with 23 resorts and high slopes from £672 in March (take the The cheapest Eurostar fares are
peaks topping out at 2,877m on the Pic train to Salzburg or Ljubljana). found by booking far in advance (there
du Midi, where a 1,000m descent is one If you’re up for a cultural adventure, are still some evening departures for
of the best runs among 100km of pistes consider an off-beat ski destination February half-term from £49.50 each
in the Grand Tourmalet ski area (six-day such as Parnassos in Greece (lift pass way – see seat61.com for how to get to
lift pass €261). The tourist board website €20 a day, parnassos-ski.gr), 2½ hours’ the mountains by rail). The cheapest
(n-py.com) offers basic apartments drive from Athens and close to Delphi, Eurotunnel crossings are usually very
from €300 for seven nights self- with 17 lifts, 23 runs and enough fun early or late in the day; and compare
catering sleeping seven at the Mongie skiing to satisfy the urge. There is also ferry prices at directferries.co.uk.
Tourmalet Residence in La Mongie, a interest building in Bosnia, where a Snow Express (snowexpress.co.uk)
resort connected to spa town Barèges. package with Ski Sarajevo (ski- offers overnight coach transfers to 40
Lourdes TGV station is 30 miles away. sarajevo.com), including six nights French resorts from London and
With low VAT and no sales tax, half-board at the Jahorina mountain Folkestone for £199pp return, including
Andorra is also a bargain bet for snowy resort and one night at a B&B in luggage and skis, departing Friday
peaks. A discount package to Arinsal Sarajevo, costs from €649pp, departing evening and arriving the next day.
with Snowboard Coach offers seven 11 February, including a five-day
nights half-board from £699pp lift-pass and transfers from Dubrovnik. Prices correct at time of going to press

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 9 1


LIFESTYLE TRAVEL

Scotland glitters with the promise of ski adventures


– and whisky. And you’re spoilt for choice, with five
resorts within a two-hour drive from Aviemore

Take the
high slope

Words: Stuart Kenny

Inverness Cairngorm Mountain

Aviemore The Lecht

Nevis Range
Glenshee
Fort William
Glencoe 30 miles

T
ake a right from the top lochans and ringed by rolling hills. Highland views, the local humour, the there’s Glencoe, where a new chairlift
lift at Glencoe Mountain This is a glen hailed in guidebooks cosy pubs and the whisky stops. will almost double capacity this
Resort and you will – and one that snowboarders and I’d decided to drive up to Glencoe season, and the White Corries cafe
quickly be confronted skiers in the UK can access in the for the day from Edinburgh after a is now up and running after the
with one of the greatest atmospheric glimmer of winter at a friend sent a flurry of envy-inducing previous one burned down on
views in Scottish skiing. fraction of what they would pay for a photographs the weekend before, Christmas Day 2019.
The rugged bulk of Buachaille Etive trip to the Alps or North America showing bluebird conditions and The resorts can be reached within
Mòr, often called Scotland’s most (weekday lift pass £30, £35 weekends), perfect snow. Lowlands turned to a two-hour drive of Aviemore, so it’s
beautiful mountain, overlooks the making it a budget option – with a Highlands after I passed Loch Lomond feasible to base yourself there and
deep valley of Glencoe, just around the much lower carbon footprint, too. – and the snow conditions had decide where to go depending on the
corner from the “007 Skyfall road”. Admittedly, the snow conditions thankfully held, too. I spent the day on snow conditions that day.
The panorama then leads past the are unpredictable, and before getting rugged red and mellow blue runs with Glencoe is perhaps the most
Devil’s Staircase, on the West to those outstanding views at the top views so beautiful I could almost hear beautiful. The uplift soars over frozen
Highland Way walking route, and of Glencoe last season, I did have to the Visit Scotland violins. And the odd waterfalls, and on the other side of the
round to Rannoch Moor, one of take a fair few gusts of hail to the face. spot of icy rain? Well, it was just resort to Buachaille Etive Mòr – a
Europe’s great wildernesses, a But this is Scotland, and the weather is another reminder that a hot chocolate jagged pyramid of a mountain, like a
sprawling peat moor dotted with as much a part of the experience as the stop is never a bad idea. child would draw – is Flypaper, the
“The advice we always give is to UK’s steepest in-boundary ski run, and
come slightly later in the season,” says the excellent Spring Run red piste.
Andy Meldrum, managing director of “You often have your own
Glencoe Mountain. “In December and playground,” says Meldrum. “It’s nice
I S A B E L L E E R B A C H E R ; S N O W S P O R T S C O T L A N D; S T U A R T K E N N Y

January it can be quite wild. By late and quiet, and we don’t piste over
February, the weather tends to have there, so it can feel like you’re skiing in
settled, and we usually ski right the backcountry when you’re really
through to the end of April.” still in-bounds.”
There are five main ski resorts in On the way to the Spring Run is a
Scotland. The Cairngorms are home to sign saying “expert skiers only”: it’s
Cairngorm Mountain, where pistes covered in stickers and appears to be
looking back over Loch Morlich and being slowly blown over by decades on
Caledonian forest are easily accessed a mountaintop. Perhaps this does put
from Aviemore. Then there’s Glenshee, some off, because the run is often
Scotland’s largest resort, with around empty, leaving plenty of space to
40km of pistes, and the Lecht, a great speed down the steep, scenic slope. On
option for families and beginners. Flypaper though, it’s safest to ignore
On the west coast, the Nevis Range, the views – because you’ll be staring
is on Aonach Mor, a mountain down a formidable 40-degree piste.
neighbouring Ben Nevis and home to Safely navigated, both of these runs
Scotland’s only ski gondola. Then connect back to the gentle blue and

9 2 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


Stuart Kenny enjoys ‘one
of the greatest views in
Scottish skiing’, left, at
Glencoe Mountain Resort,
which also features
Flypaper, a 40-degree
piste which is the UK’s
steepest in-boundary ski
run, bottom left;
snowboarding in the
Cairngorms, right

The new chairlift at


Glencoe, left, which is
expected to double the
resort’s capacity; a few
words of caution to skiers
approaching the Spring
Run red piste, second left

green runs lower in the resort, plus the while from Aviemore, you can visit finding that day. “You can get Aviemore local who works for active
main lifts and the mountain cafe. reindeer herds, stroll the Frank Bruce champagne powder, but you can also travel operator Wilderness Scotland,
Where skiing in Scotland perhaps Sculpture Trail in Glenfeshie or catch get heather and granite,” he laughs. and who found a new love for ski
struggles is when making an apples- traditional music in a cosy pub. “That’s the charm. It’s just having the touring during the pandemic. “But it’s
and-oranges comparison between it The Scottish weather tends to bring patience, adaptability and flexibility – not all about the downhill. It’s about
and the mega-resorts of Europe and out the inner philosopher. Some say because all of that variability comes the journey across wild landscapes,
North America. that to get the most out of skiing here, with a lot of opportunity, too.” seeing wildlife as you go, and skiing
Scott Simon, CEO of Snowsport you have to be an optimist. “Have An increasing number of skiers sections nobody has skied before.”
Scotland, says: “There’s maybe an numerous plan As, and then pick out would say the best of those Images of Scottish touring in recent
expectation, if you’re coming from the the best one according to the weather,” opportunities lie off-piste. The past years – puff y powder, blanket-white
south of England, that you’re going to says Simon. Others say that to few years have seen a huge boom in ski mountain ranges or lines of snow
be getting a Val d’Isère or a Whistler or complain about the unpredictability of touring in Scotland, a discipline which snaking down otherwise grassy
a Colorado experience. And you’re not. the conditions in Scotland in winter is involves walking up the mountain on Highland views – ooze adventure, and
You’re going to get a Scottish to miss the beauty of the mountains skis with special bindings and “skins” have confirmed to many what long-
experience – socially, culturally, themselves. As Nan Shepherd wrote of – strips that allow your skis to grip time skiers in Scotland already knew
environmentally, and certainly from a the Cairngorms: “The mysteries are in while going uphill. At the top, you take – that this remains a country seriously
weather perspective.” its movements.” the skins off, clip back in and descend. underrated in terms of skiing terrain,
Indeed, one of the most common There is one mantra that all Scottish Earning your turns can be a lot of even if some will blindly dismiss it.
pieces of advice for those heading skiers have uttered at one time or work, but it also means your route is The skiing in Scotland is as good as
north is to stay flexible, and ski as part another, though, and which Simon not decided by where the lifts run. You anywhere in the world. And when the
of a wider Highland holiday. Nevis proffers now: “On its day, it absolutely can go wherever the snow is. weather does intervene? Well, the
Range is just round the corner from stands up there with anywhere in the “It makes you respect the lifts a lot whisky distilleries are never cosier
the Ben Nevis Distillery, for example, world.” The problem, he adds, is just more,” says Russell Murray, an than on a wet and wild winter day.

Answers to quiz 9 Played on screen by Nowhere; Answers to S B A E H

Puzzle by Thomas Eaton Matt Smith.


10 Commonwealth
Shangri-La.
12 Thanksgiving dates.
Weekend
Crossword
B A
K
T T
B
L E
A
G R
N
A
S
P E
R
S

solutions 1 Agatha Christie. Games mascots: 13 Trickster deities: by Sy


D I
R
O R
I
T W E
L W
N T I E
R
S

(puzzles on page 98) 2 Karakoram. Birmingham; Chinese;


A N D M E N O F N O D
3 Bell ringing. Gold Coast; Polynesian; E S O A
4 PDSA Dickin Medal. Glasgow; African; M O R S E O F M I C E
5 Rangers. Delhi. Greek; F S W R N
6 Bayonet (Bayonne). 11 Created fictional Norse. P E S H A W A R L A N D
7 Sikhism. utopias: 14 Waters (England’s D Y O A A I
8 Fans of Tottenham Cloud Cuckoo Land; largest reservoirs). W E I M A R T A D M O R
N N D H Y
Hotspur. Utopia; 15 Defunct airlines.

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 9 3


LIFESTYLE TRAVEL

Start Chirk (there’s a railway station in Chirk too)


It’s not every walk where you see boats float across Distance 13 miles and set off north along the towpath.
the sky – something to ponder over a fine pint Time 5 hours You are about to experience a number
Total ascent 30 metres of engineering marvels and the
Difficulty Easy opening salvo comes immediately

How far to the pub? The walk


A Dee valley wander
with a 216-metre-long aqueduct that
spans the River Ceiriog and valley.
In 1793 Thomas Telford was a

The Aqueduct Inn, respected architect in Shrewsbury, but

T
he canal boat drifted his work in joining the rivers Severn,
gently across the sky, Dee and Mersey by canal would

Llangollen 40 metres above the


ground. Two men in a
canoe followed. They
catapult him into the super-league of
civil engineers, a realm he would
dominate until the flamboyant young
were wearing lifejackets, upstart Brunel eclipsed him.
although parachutes might have been The towpath is the best place to
more appropriate. inspect Telford’s creation, a giant
Words: Kevin Rushby There is, it is safe to say, nowhere piece of Victorian plumbing consisting
Photography: Shaw and Shaw else in the world that you can float of an elongated cast-iron bath wide
your boat so far off the ground as on enough for a canal boat to be pulled
this bit of the Llangollen canal, on along it by a horse 21 metres above the
Thomas Telford’s masterpiece, the valley. No sooner is this finished than
Pontcysyllte aqueduct. It is a you enter the next marvel: the Chirk
307-metre long cast-iron trough tunnel, a 420-metre unlit hole that
perched on 18 stone arches that stride burrows under the hill.
across the Dee valley in north Wales, a It is not the longest canal tunnel in
world heritage site that justifies its Britain, but it is the longest you can
listing by being a genuine marvel of safely walk. Be warned, it does get
the Industrial Revolution. very dark in the middle – Wilf, my
And there is a lot more. This walk terrier, was not at all keen – but you
has numerous permutations, plus can always see both ends, and there is
some combinations with the Offa’s a sturdy handrail.
Dyke Path, but I will assume a five- Two centuries after their creation,
mile walk, a pub lunch, then a walk these engineering wonders are well
back along the same route. It’s so good, bedded into the landscape, but when
you will happily do it again. they were built, they caused massive
We start to the south of the small upheaval: lime kilns, brickworks,
town of Chirk, where the Llangollen docks and boats had to be constructed.
canal comes curving in from the east, Telford seems to have been happy
heading for the hills. Park by the canal to take all the credit, but the truth was

9 4 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian


Drifting along the Take the map with you
Llangollen canal – and 40 Scan the code for the online Offa's Dyke Path Pontcysyllte aqueduct
article with a Google Map
metres above the ground
– on the Pontcysyllte
acqueduct, far left; a
sheep’s-eye view of the Castell Dinas Brân
Dee valley, left; the mural Llangollen
artwork of the refurbished
Aqueduct Inn, bottom left River Dee
A5
Plas Newydd The Aqueduct Inn Froncysyllte

A483
Chirk tunnel

Start/end of walk
1 mile
Chirk

Castell Dinas Brân, the


ruins of a 13th-century
castle in the vale of
Llangollen, left; time for
refreshment at the
Aqueduct Inn, right

that many others were involved. The aqueducts had been seen as desirable, trail along the spectacular Eglwyseg uncluttered yet cosy atmosphere.
towpath curves through a second, but impossible. The consensus was escarpment, well known to botanists The pub can be spotted a long way
shorter tunnel before it crosses an that the weight of water would for its unique species of tree, the away by the addition of a spectacular
earlier, even more ambitious feat of destabilise any structure beneath. Llangollen Whitebeam, not discovered mural artwork by canalboat artist Alan
engineering, Offa’s Dyke, which is Then in 1793, Benjamin Outram until the 1950s. After three miles, Baillie on the east-facing gable end.
signposted. devised and built a short canal there is an opportunity to turn left Whether Telford himself enjoyed a
Look out for the line of trees aqueduct using cast iron. down to Castell Dinas Brân, an iron age pint of Three Tuns in the bar is
following a low embankment that Telford followed suit. At Pontcysyllte, hillfort with 13th-century ruins too, unknown, but in 1995 Luciano
drops down to meet the canal on the he made the 18 viaduct arches hollow then into Llangollen. Pavarotti did visit while attending the
far side from the towpath. We know to save weight, then mixed ox blood If there’s time, visit Plas Newydd nearby Eisteddfod. On entering, he
why Telford built the canal – to into the cement to add strength. The cottage, a gothic fantasy house created heard the Froncysyllte Choir
transport limestone and iron ore – but result is something both sturdy and by Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby practising in the next bar and
the purpose of King Offa’s equally graceful. It’s also vertiginously high in Regency times, their relationship famously joined in. It’s that sort of
massive project remains a mystery. and quite narrow: if you think canal reputedly an inspiration to Anne Lister place: friendly and relaxed.
At Froncysyllte there is a small walks are generally low-key and – “Gentleman Jack”– who came to There’s a terrace too, overlooking
bridge and there is now a towpath on unadventurous, you will reconsider visit, as did Byron, Shelley and the the canal and aqueduct. Food always
both sides as you approach the climax: after this. Duke of Wellington. From here, head includes vegetarian options and
Pontcysyllte (pronounced Pont-cuss- At the north end of the aqueduct, back to the towpath and walk east sharing plates. The steaks are from
uch-tay). After the opening of the first there is a choice. Sturdy walkers can back along the canal. Welsh Black cattle reared in the hills
canal, the Bridgewater, in 1761, continue, heading up the Offa’s Dyke Alternatively, when you have around the village.
crossed the aqueduct, follow the B5434 On Facebook
road down to the River Dee, where the
17th-century stone Cysylltau bridge
gives a great view of the aqueduct. Where to stay
Continue up the road and turn right at The Aqueduct Inn will be opening
the top for the Aqueduct Inn. three new upstairs bedrooms in
spring next year, the pick of which
faces north across the Dee valley to
The pub the aqueduct. With oak beams and
Construction of the aqueduct was, no sills, stone features and lemon-yellow
doubt, a thirsty business and after a walls, the rooms will have a fresh
day’s work the builders would step up light atmosphere and smart new
the hill to the nearest establishment. shower rooms.
There had been an inn on the spot for For those walking on up the Offa’s
a long time, but a new name, The Dyke path, the Llangollen Hostel has
Aqueduct, was soon adopted. Nick cheerful, simple rooms from £43 a
Edwards and partner Teresa bought night, plus lots of books, games and a
the place in 2016 and have finally piano in the lounge. Visitors can make
(after an extended pandemic pause), their own breakfast in the kitchen.
refurbished it, bringing in an llangollenhostel.co.uk

The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 9 5


LIFESTYLE TRAVEL

artisan cider and calvados, and tasty


charcuterie. When the market closes,
cafes and bars spread over the square.
There are cocktails at L’Équilibriste,
ice-cream and cake at Les Accords
Parfaits, and lunch at Yacht Café.
Although Deauville is known as a
summer resort, there are events on all
year – cinema, music, book and photo
festivals, and international polo and
golf tournaments – so Place du Marché
is always busy. We even have a hip
craft beer bar, Sales Gosses, that stays
lively well after midnight.

Green space
Deauville is dominated by its immense
beach, with few green spaces in the
centre. But verdant countryside is
easily accessible by bike routes. A gem
near the hamlet of Bénerville-sur-Mer,
just three miles away, is Parc Calouste
Gulbenkian. It was bought by the
Armenian art collector in 1937 as his
private sanctuary, and given to
Deauville in 1973. With flower gardens,
lawns and orchards, it is the ideal place
for reading a book, quiet meditation or
a picnic. In midsummer, the park is a

A local’s
It’s a wonderfully serene place. haven of peace, with hardly a soul.
Food Once away from the crowds, there’s
For a town of barely 4,000 inhabitants, also serenity to be had on Deauville’s

guide to
Deauville has a pretty sophisticated famous boardwalk, Les Planches. The Nightlife
dining scene, thanks to the weekend way the light changes through the day Whether you gamble or not, take a
influx of Parisians and the tourists here attracted impressionist painters stroll through Deauville’s Casino, with
drawn here for the horseracing, polo including Monet and Boudin. Time its Grande Salle filled with roulette

Deauville, and film festival. Franco-Korean


couple Mi-Ra and Charles recently won
a Michelin star for their creative fusion
stands still, as if the sea and sand are
all for you. For me, Les Planches is just
as beautiful in winter.
and blackjack tables rather than the
usual slot machines. It was here in
1959 that writer Françoise Sagan,

France at L’Essentiel, which includes dishes


such as tom yam-style prawns with
salsify and horseradish. Neighbourhood
having tired of Saint-Tropez, won 8m
(old) francs on the gaming tables and
used it to buy a property in the nearby
Famous for its beaches The cosy La Flambée showcases
local ingredients – try their millefeuille
Place du Marché (pictured above) has a
real sense of community among the
village of Équemauville.
Few out-of-towners know Café
and film festival, this of andouille sausage and onions. stallholders and shopkeepers. It’s where Marius, a rooftop bar full of luxuriant
belle époque gem has Locals love Marion, a modern brasserie
with a great lunchtime set menu (€22)
everyone in Deauville comes to shop, sit
out on cafe terraces, enjoy an aperitif
plants: it resembles a private club and
is perfect for sunset drinks and tapas.
just opened a game- and desserts like tarte tatin with thick or have dinner. In July and August the I also love the historic wood-panelled
Normandy cream. For a platter of open-air market runs every day, and is cocktail bar at Hôtel Normandy and
changing arts centre, oysters, prawns and crab, stroll over the place to buy Norman specialities: Brok Café, a Cuban bar with great music.
says bookshop owner the bridge to Trouville and Les Vapeurs camembert and pont-l’évêque cheeses, The late-night scene here cannot
brasserie, opposite the fish market. rival Cannes or Saint-Tropez, but for
David Ezvan clubbing, Le Point Bar, opens at 11pm
and parties till dawn.
Inspiration
The recent opening of Les
Interview by John Brunton Franciscaines has transformed Stay
Deauville’s cultural scene. The In the centre, a few minutes from the
19th-century convent has been beach, hotel Le Trophée (doubles from
spectacularly transformed by €135 B&B, letrophee.com), is popular
contemporary architect Alain Moatti with visiting writers and artists.
to create a performance space in the
chapel, temporary exhibition spaces, Deuville native David Ezvan runs the
a permanent museum, a garden Librairie du Marché bookshop on the
cafe and a multimedia public library. town’s half-timbered market square

Illustrations: Hennie Haworth The Guardian | 29.10.22 | S AT UR DAY | 9 7


SATURDAY
Scan the code to
send Molly a question
The kids’ quiz for a future quiz Weekend crossword Quiz
Molly Oldfield Sy Thomas Eaton

This quiz answers questions posed by children Answers (no peeking!) 1 2 3 4 5 1 Whose estate
— will you get a better score than your parents? 1 A. The biggest dinosaur trademarked the title
6 7 8
is a titanosaur. This group “queen of crime”?
of long-necked sauropods 2 What does the K in K2
includes the Patagotitan stand for?
9 10
and the Argentinosaurus. 3 What type of team is led
Experts can’t decide which by a tower captain?
is bigger! 4 Which award is
2 C. Philosophers and 11 12 13 known as the animals’
scientists have struggled Victoria Cross?
14
to tell us why we cry when 5 Which branch of
we feel emotion. When 15 16 17 18 the Guides is for girls
babies cry, they often do it aged 14-18?
for attention as they can’t 19 6 What weapon is named
express themselves with after a French Basque city?
20 21 22
words – adults might do this, 7 Which religion
too! There are lots of reasons was established by the
why people cry, and you 10 gurus?
should never be afraid to cry 23 24 8 Whose fans use the
if you need to. #COYS hashtag?
3 D. The water pressure in What links:
1 Jacob, 6½, asks: what is B The difference in air the water reservoir is greater 9 Christopher Isherwood;
the biggest dinosaur? temperature makes the than the pressure outside. Across Down Prince Philip;
A A titanosaur water travel upwards This makes the water want 6/21 The ...... .... of the 1 Castle, bay and village on the Robert Mapplethorpe;
B A gigantosaur C There are vents on taps to escape through any hole. Republic, song from which Pembrokeshire coast (2,6) Charles Manson?
C A humungosaur that blow air into the tap to If we think of the tap as a Steinbeck took 8/14’s title (6,4) 2 The .......: John, Paul, 10 Perry the bull;
D An enormosaur push the water upwards hole, then when we turn the 8/14 The ...... .. ....., George and Ringo (7) Borobi the koala;
D Differences in pressure tap on, the pressure pushes Steinbeck novel featuring the 3 Spiro ....., Nixon’s Clyde the thistle;
2 Esme, 10, asks: why do make water move upwards water through the tap, even Joad family (6,2,5) unfortunate choice as Shera the tiger?
people shed tears when through a tap upwards, towards the hole! 9 Christian ...., French fashion vice-president (5) 11 Aristophanes;
they are happy or sad? 4 B. The longest reign by a house (4) 4/16 Steinbeck novel featuring Thomas More;
A Tears contain emotion 4 Sophie, 8, asks: who monarch of a sovereign state 10 Decade associated with jazz the Trasks and the Hamiltons William Morris;
hormones, so shedding has ruled for the longest was Louis XIV of France. He and art deco (8) (4,2,4) James Hilton?
them helps us to release period of time? ruled for 72 years and 110 11 See 17 5 People and language found in 12 10 October in Canada and
our feelings A Queen Elizabeth II days, from 1643 until 1715. 12 See 22 Namibia and Botswana (6) 24 November in the US?
B Tears allow us to express B King Louis XIV Elizabeth II, who died last 15 Inspector ....., character 7 ..... Kurosawa, film director (5) 13 Monkey;
our emotions without words C Hirohito month, was our queen for created by Colin Dexter (5) 13 My .... ...., musical based on Maui;
C Nobody has figured out D Tutankhamun more than 70 years. 17/11 Steinbeck novella about Shaw’s Pygmalion (4,4) Anansi;
exactly why people cry 5 B. The sun is about 15m Lennie and George (2,4,3,3) 14 See 8 Eris;
D Most people can shed 5 Matilda, 6, asks: degrees celsius at its core. 20 Pakistani city east of the 16 See 4 Loki?
ILLUSTR ATION: HENNIE HAWORTH

tears whenever they want how hot is the sun? This is the hottest part of it! Khyber Pass (8) 18 ..... Morricone, composer (5) 14 Grafham;
to, even if they are not A 1.5m degrees celsius 22/12 Where Cain was exiled 19 What was both terrible and Hawes;
happy or sad at its core Molly Oldfield hosts when he went 4/16, according swift, according to the first Rutland;
B 15m degrees celsius Everything Under the Sun, to Genesis (4,2,3) verse of the 6/21 (5) Kielder?
3 Joshua, 8, asks: at its core a weekly podcast (and 23 City where the German 21 See 6 15 Monarch;
how does water in a tap C 150m degrees celsius book) answering children’s constitution was written in Laker;
travel upwards? at its core questions. Does your child 1919 (6) Solutions to Crossword Sabena;
A It gets pumped up pipes D 1.5bn degrees celsius have a question? Submit 24 Another name for the ancient and Thomas Eaton’s quiz Malev;
using a motor ised pump at its core one at gu.com/kidsquiz city of Palmyra in Syria (6) page 93 Pan Am?

Stephen Collins

9 8 | S AT UR DAY | 29.10.22 | The Guardian *

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