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To cite this article: Judy Park (2013) Do School Uniforms Lead to Uniform Minds?: School
Uniforms and Appearance Restrictions in Korean Middle Schools and High Schools, Fashion
Theory, 17:2, 159-177
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Fashion Theory, Volume 17, Issue 2, pp. 159–178
DOI: 10.2752/175174113X13541091797607
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Do School
Uniforms Lead to
Downloaded by [University of Sussex Library] at 11:35 12 August 2015
Uniform Minds?:
School Uniforms
and Appearance
Restrictions in
Korean Middle
Schools and
Judy Park High Schools
Judy Park is CEO of Atelier Eleven Abstract
(www.ateliereleven.com) and a
lecturer of fashion design at
Sungkyunkwan University, Inha Korean people possess impressive skills and abilities and are making a
University and Korea National Open mark in many different fields, but they are not usually considered the
University in Korea. She has a PhD most creative in a group. There may be different reasons for the rigid-
and MSc in clothing and textiles from
Seoul National University. ness or lack of creativity of Korea, but this article especially focuses on
judy5134@gmail.com the effect of school uniforms on the creativity of Korean students.
School uniforms are introduced for multiple reasons, including disci-
pline, eliminating class differences between peers, and better academic
performance. However, based on an examination of the history of
uniforms in Korean schools and the attitudes and habits of students
160 Judy Park
Introduction
Korean people have many skills and abilities and an attractive culture
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lose their sensitivity as they grow into adults because of the ways of
society, such as how people are expected to dress or act in certain cir-
cumstances or as a person of a certain status. An employee in charge of
life culture at the Department of Creativity and Character Education at
the Daegu Office of Education, Kim Young-tak, says that uniforms and
clothing regulations that regulate everything from hairstyles to even the
color of socks and sneakers of students inevitably trap the sensitivity of
students in a uniform cage (Han 2011).
Women frequently say they feel more “feminine” when they wear a
skirt, not only because of how they look, but also because wearing the
clothes actually requires them to act in a more “feminine” way, such as
keeping their legs together or walking more lightly in high heels than
they would in sneakers, for example. Clothes can therefore compara-
tively restrict or liberate a person because of the design, and people
often choose their clothes based on their values and how they want
to act. A study on Korean youth subcultures found that Korean skate-
boarders wear clothes that are more baggy than riders but not as baggy
as hip hoppers, because they need the right amount of comfort to do
tricks on the skateboard (Ha and Park 2011: 24). A study on Japanese
youth subcultures found that gyarus, who pursue an exaggerated girlish
style and enjoy nightlife and being young, like to wear big bows to show
their girlish side and multiple layers of plastic necklaces to show a child-
like side in a society where child-like innocence is considered a virtue
(Park 2010b: 2–8).
Korean middle school and high school students especially spend
most of their time in school, and increasingly more time wearing
their uniform to spaces outside of school, making it take up a significant
part of their clothing life (Lee and Lim 2010: 180). Asia Economy re-
ported that adolescents spend around thirteen hours per day in their
school uniform (Park 2011). Classes finish in Korea at around 4 p.m.,
but most schools have afterschool studies, and even if students do not
have afterschool studies, almost all students go straight to academic
institutes to further study key subjects in the university entrance exam-
ination, such as math, Korean, English, and science, still wearing their
uniform. Middle school students might make it home in time for dinner
if they have lenient parents, but most high school students stay until
164 Judy Park
midnight, or come home for dinner but have lessons with a private tutor
afterwards. Korean students also attend school for half-days on Satur-
days. Therefore, they do not have many opportunities to express them-
selves through clothes, try new looks and designs, and experience how
they feel, act, or think differently from when they wear their school
uniform.
Wearing a school uniform for most of their day almost every day looks
like it could possibly have a negative effect on the creativity of students,
but what about the design of the school uniform? Do different school
uniform designs make students feel, act, or think in different ways?
School uniforms may all seem the same to people in some countries,
but in Korea, people are more sensitive about the different designs, in-
cluding color, silhouette, and details, because the country has a brief
history of diversity in uniforms. Although school uniforms started in
the nineteenth century, they were generally the same regardless of
school, and different designs for different schools were only permitted
in the 1980s.
The first women’s hanbok, or traditional Korean dress, school
uniform was the uniform worn by students of the American missionary
Mrs F. Scranton in 1886. The first school uniform that was modern-
day “Western” clothing adopted from the West was the uniform of
Sookmyung Women’s School in 1907, consisting of a purple dress
and bonnet with a pink lining. Uniforms returned to the traditional
hanbok in 1910, and modern school uniforms returned in the 1930s,
usually consisting of a blouse, sweater, sailor’s top, and pleated skirt
for girls (Lee and Lim 2010: 180–1). Boys first wore traditional
Korean dress uniforms at Baejaehakdang School in 1898, and switched
to military-style uniforms they could wear both for studying and training
in 1939, as ordered by Japan during Japanese rule (Naver Encyclopedia
2011).
Then, in 1969, the standardization policy of middle schools came
into effect, and all schools in all cities and regions had to wear the
same school uniform. Girls wore a black or brown skirt and white
top in the summer and double-breasted jacket and pleated skirt in the
winter; boys had to shave their heads and wear black suits (Figure 1).
All students even wore similar shoes and carried the same bags. The
idea was to make all students look the same regardless of the school
they attended, but they could be differentiated with a small name tag,
school badge, and grade mark on their chest (Naver Encyclopedia 2011).
The strict uniform regulations started to ease in 1983, when the
Ministry of Education permitted schools to select their own unique
Do School Uniforms Lead to Uniform Minds? 165
Figure 1
A scene from the film Spirit of Jeet Keun
Do showing Korean boys’ school
uniforms in the 1970s. Copyright ©
2012 CJ E&M Corporation, all rights
reserved.
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Figure 2
A typical Korean middle school uniform.
Courtesy of the author.
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only shows the strong influence of the media, but the lack of creativity
and tendency for copying of Korean students, too.
Nevertheless, as Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel once said, “He who
insists on his own creativity has no memory.” Being inspired by
others and making their ideas your own is one way of exploring and de-
veloping creativity and individual style, and as students do all around
the world, students in Korea have their own trends, usually inspired
by celebrities, which they adapt into their everyday school uniform
styles. There is a slight difference in style according to which area stu-
dents live in Seoul. Students who live in the Gangbuk area in Seoul,
north of the Han River, especially alter their school uniforms and
wear them very tight. The clothes are so tight that some people joke
that “they were probably stitched on to the wearer.” However, this
trend is no laughing matter. Not only do some most schools punish stu-
dents for their attire, but a study even found that tight uniforms cause
stress and damage the digestive system of students (Cheong et al. 2003:
76). Meanwhile, some girls wear their school uniform skirts much
shorter than the original design, and this is leading to complaints
and, possibly, financial implications for some schools. Many girls get
their skirts altered or roll up their skirts—something girls do in many
Do School Uniforms Lead to Uniform Minds? 167
teachers, but this is not an easy task. Students living in Daegu, pro-
moted as a “colorful” city, complain about their dark and dreary
uniform styles, but school uniform designers and fashion design profes-
sors asked to design new uniforms for schools point out that it is diffi-
cult to meet the many demands and suggestions. Since school uniforms
are worn by all students, requests regarding silhouette, cost, design, and
so on cannot realistically be met, and the end result sadly rarely breaks
away from the usual colors or designs because of the many conditions
and restrictions (Han 2011).
School uniform design and manufacturing companies may not be
able to randomly change the design of school uniforms, but they are
building competitiveness through less visual areas of design, such as
function and comfort. For the 2011 summer season, Skool Looks pro-
vided clothing with a perspiration evaporation function, UV-ray protec-
tion, and ergonomic designs for comfort. Ivy Club presented a mesh
lining for cooler and more durable boys’ pants and a concealed zipper
inside girls’ skirt pockets so the pockets do not open up if you close
the zipper, creating a smoother and slimmer line. Elite Basic added a
lining with pictures printed in between girls’ blouse buttons to prevent
exposure of skin in between buttons and add a fun design, slightly
reduced the width of boys’ shirts for a slimmer line, and added buttons
on skirt and pants waistlines for easy waist adjustments (Park 2011).
With school uniform skirt lengths growing shorter and shorter, some
schools announced that they would send girls home if they wore skirts
that were too short. However, skirt length is not the only thing that is
restricted in Korean middle schools and high schools. Students today
can enhance their appearance even while wearing a school uniform in
many more ways than the days when the standardization policy of
middle schools was in effect, but the boys still have to keep their hair
short, normally less than 4 cm long, and girls not only have to keep
their hair at a length that is 4 cm under their ear or shorter, but are
also banned from coloring, perms, and even using styling products,
such as hairspray, mousse, gel, or hair wax. Students are not allowed
to wear any makeup or accessories, except for a watch, and still have
to wear certain socks and shoes according to school regulations. Con-
sidering that schools in the USA and Europe generally allow a single
168 Judy Park
pair of earrings and other accessories, and have no problems with hair
or makeup, the restrictions in Korea may appear harsh. This is the norm
for middle school and high school students in Korea, but now that they
are able to watch and indirectly experience Western culture via televi-
sion and Internet, today’s Korean students have a stronger desire to
beautify themselves compared to students did in the past—a desire
they have to suppress every day.
She believes clothes are the result of art and philosophy, and a lack of
fashion sense will prevent a person from developing insight into other
objects, life, and creativity. Noh said, “I hope school uniforms will
be the starting point to developing creativity and competitiveness”
(Park 2005). Principal Kim Jong-mo of the alternative high school in
Gongju, Korea, is another person who believes school uniforms can
restrict creativity. Hanil High School is a boarding school that provides
an alternative education, including cultural exchange with China and
Japan, sports education, and special lectures by invited lecturers,
unlike most high schools in Korea that focus on bulldozer-style teaching
and memorization in preparation for the university entrance examina-
tion. Principal Kim says that Hanil High School has a “three nos” envi-
ronment, “no school gate, no school uniform and no pollution,” which
eliminates three major elements that the block creative thinking of
students, and focuses on students learning to discipline and think for
themselves (Kwon 2009).
However, uniforms are known to instill a sense of belonging in
people and lead to better teamwork, which is why Korean banks still
have uniforms for their workers. Also, one can always see members
of NASA wearing a uniform when they hold a press conference for
any space project or successful satellite launch. Being unified and
working together as a team is important, even when the world’s top
scientists work together on something that requires great creativity
from each individual.
Positive and negative effects of the uniform policy aside, are the
school uniform and appearance restrictions in Korea too strict? The
purpose of the school uniform and appearance restrictions is to elimi-
nate the element of students having to pay attention to how they
look, but strict restrictions sometimes make them focus even more on
their looks, as they try to express individuality and look good within
the restraints set upon them. It was reported in the news in March
2011, that a high school in Incheon held a hair length inspection for
all students one morning in front of the school gate, and sent around
150 students away to get their hair cut before they could enter the
school and take classes. Some students went to a nearby hair salon
and got a haircut, but others just stood outside the gate not knowing
170 Judy Park
what to do. Some parents complained that this was not a rational
reason to deny their children classes, but most agreed that there is a
need to restrict hair length for discipline and effective education.
Almost all Korean high schools have appearance restrictions, and the
only teenagers who have long and colored or permed hair in Korean
society are those with special talents recognized by the school, such
as professional junior dancers or those who attend international
schools. Yet, there are no records to show that wearing school uniforms
or strengthening appearance restrictions lead to better academic perfor-
mance of schools, and students of international schools who have no
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The main complaints were that the design was not unique, pretty, or
trendy, and too boring. One middle school girl said she really wanted to
wear the school uniform in the recent television drama series Dream
High. Dream High was based on an arts high school, and although
arts high schools exist in Korea, the school portrayed in the television
series was unlike any arts school in the country. The students in the
series debuted as singers, had close friendships with their teachers,
and spent most of their classes dancing and singing, which is something
you would more likely see in a Western school. The school uniform in-
cluded a slim-fitting brown jacket, slim trousers for boys, a big red and
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blue bow and a matching short red and blue checkered pleated miniskirt
for girls, and no additional restrictions, allowing the cast to wear color-
ful shoes, outerwear, and accessories, and style their hair in a variety of
different ways, including colored and permed hair and hair styled with
gel or hair wax (Figure 3). Another high school boy said he wanted to
wear the uniform in the popular Harry Potter films, which consists of
gray trousers and a gray V-necked sweater with yellow and red trim-
ming, a matching yellow and red striped tie, and a black cloak with a
red and yellow school emblem embroidered on the chest, with a white
shirt.
He said he did not like that everyone looked the same, and instead of a
sense of belonging, he felt trapped. He added that he believes wearing
school uniforms decreases creativity in students, making them less cre-
ative than students who do not wear uniforms, and that students could
probably develop in a more creative way if they did not wear uniforms.
The biggest complaint of students was that they did not like the color of
their uniform. One middle school girl said although she attends a better
school and wants to go on to a general high school, she envies the
uniform of the technical high school in her neighborhood—technical
high schools are schools of a lower academic level than general high
schools and mainly for students who do not wish to attend university
but aim to get a job right after high school. The school’s winter uniform
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is maroon and beige, and they have dark gray trousers or skirts with a
gray striped shirt in the summer. Two other girls said they wanted pink
or red checkered skirts.
A study in 1981 found that 78 percent of female high school students
felt the need for a school uniform, yet only 6 percent were “very satis-
fied” with their uniforms while 60 percent felt “neither satisfied nor
dissatisfied” (Chung et al. 1981: 28). All the subjects interviewed for
this study were dissatisfied, and some did not want a uniform.
Not only girls, but even boys shared this view, saying it was considered
very “cool” to have longer hair; they tried to grow their hair by tucking
it in, and took it out after school.
This was one interesting comment that surfaced a few times only
with the girls:
None of the boys shared this view, which can be linked to the focus
of appearance and self-esteem problems of young girls. A study found
that Korean female high school students are more dissatisfied with
expression of individuality when wearing school uniform if they are
more satisfied with their physical appearance, and have an increasingly
Do School Uniforms Lead to Uniform Minds? 173
Figure 3
The school uniform worn by the cast in
the popular television series Dream
High.
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the reasons why some of the Korean students interviewed said they
preferred having a school uniform to not having one. Talking more in
depth with the students showed that they were all dissatisfied with
their uniform, and either wanted “prettier” or “cooler” uniforms or
freedom of dress and expression.
Conclusion
References