Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Hotels Events Map

Tirana
2022

Farm to table
Agrotourism and Slow Food

All the tips you need

Tirana’s best restaurants,
cafés, bars and sights

inyourpocket.com
N°11 - €3
 Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S Feature: Farm to Table 37
Agrotourism and the Slow Food revolution

Basics 5 Cafés 38
The only A to Z of the city you’ll ever need Coffee shops and lounge cafés

Arriving & Transport 8 Nightlife 43

Planes, trains and automobiles Drink the night away

History 14 Shopping 48
You couldn’t make this stuff up Fashion, markets and more

Culture & Events 16 Where to Stay 51

Opera, cinema and 2022 events A bed for all budgets

Day trip: Kruja 18 Directory 58

See Skanderbeg’s imposing citadel All the useful addresses

Sightseeing 20 Tirana map & Street index 64

Of pyramids, bunkers and art Find your way

Where to Eat 27 Communications 66

Everything from fine dining to street food Wifi, mail & phones

Spikes at the National Stadium

tirana.inyourpocket.com 2022 3
 Foreword
It’s good to be back. Tirana has been through some rough
times since our last edition, but much has changed and celebrating life
we’re looking forward to a brilliant summer in Albania.
Don’t you agree it’s time to celebrate life? After two
What’s changed? Prices have gone up a bit, American
pandemic years with personal losses and economic
expats have arrived in force with the year-long visa-free
difficulties, Albanians are now looking forward to a
offer, skyscrapers are shooting up like concrete weeds, and
successful year and renewed contact with the outside
suddenly everyone’s on instagram.
world. After decades of complete isolation and many
more years of rebuilding the country, Albania attracts
In this brand new 11th edition of Tirana In Your Pocket, we
ever more visitors who come to enjoy our beautiful
take a look at agrotourism (p.37) and farm-to-table (p.28)
beaches, majestic mountain
trends, go on a day trip to Kruja (p.18) and see some nuc-
landscapes, lively cities and
lear bunkers (p.23). We hope you enjoy exploring Tirana as
rich cultural heritage. At Tirana
much as we do writing about it.
In Your Pocket, we have made
it our mission to promote our
fascinating, vibrant capital city,
About this guide and to help foreigners make
the most of their time here. A
The Tirana In Your Pocket city guide is part of an inter- warm welcome to Albania -
national series of acclaimed city guides. Our guides are and enjoy Tirana!
written for foreign travellers and residents, to provide Gazmend Haxhia, publisher
honest, critical information that makes visiting the
city easier. As a private and commercial initiative, this
guide has been written and researched by a team of
local and foreign travel guide experts. We appreciate cover - past and future
any tips for improving the next issue, sent to publish-
ing@landways.eu. The bold warrior depicted on the cover is Skenderbeg,
Albania’s national hero who united the nation and
Udhëzuesi i qytetit Tirana In Your Pocket (‚Tirana në fought tirelessly against
xhepin tuaj‘) është udhëzuesi i vetëm në gjuhën the Ottomans in medi-
angleze që i dedikohet kryeqytetit të Shqipërisë, eval times - you’ll find this
dhe është pjesë e një sërë udhëzuesve të njohur statue in the middle of
të qyteteve në mbarë Evropën. Udhëzuesit in your Skanderbeg Square. He
pocket janë dizajnuar për udhëtarët e huaj dhe is juxtaposed by the new,
banorët, por thjeshtë që të sigurojnë informata të 85-metre high 4 Ever Green
sinqerta kritike që e bëjnë vizitën në qytet më të lehtë Tower skyscraper, one of
për të sapoardhurit. Si një iniciative private komerciale, several strikingly designed
Tirana In Your Pocket është shkruar dhe hulumtuar new highrises represent-
nga një ekip i ekspertëve vendor dhe të huaj të ing the progress Tirana
udhëzuesve të udhëtimit. E-mailet mund të dërgohen has made in recent years.
në publishing@landways.eu. Photo by Erich Mehrl.

Editorial
Editor-in-Chief Jeroen van Marle
Contributors Alexandra Lewis, Richard Schofield
Research Albina Caci, Arjeta Dyli, Salvador Senia
E S S E N TI A L Advertising & Distribution Manager Semi Gjoni
Publisher Layout Küllike Johannson-Singer
C I TY G U I D E S
Landways International Photos Jeroen van Marle
Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji shk.1, k.1, Tirana, Map © Bashkia Tirana
Albania Cover photo © Erich Mehrl, www.archivmehrl.de
Tel. +355 4 225 56 55
publishing@landways.eu Copyright notice
www.inyourpocket.com Text and photos copyright Landways International 2022. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any
© Landways International, 2022 form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without
Printed by Expo Vision Albania written permission from the publisher and copyright owner.

4 Tirana In Your Pocket


Tirana’s main drag, Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit
The Albanians
A matter of considerable academic dispute, the origin
of today’s Albanian people almost certainly lies some-
where in the time before Christ when the Illyrians
settled the region. The first written references to a spe-
cific Albanian race date back to historical records from
the 11th century. Contemporary Albanians run on the
mixed blood of several races who’ve all in one way or
another had considerable influence on the nation, the
only thing truly uniting them being besa, the unique
Albanian honour code that insists on the well-being of
honoured guests no matter who they are. Besa, which
famously left Nazi-occupied Albania with a larger Jewish
population at the end of WWII than at the beginning, is
reason enough to visit the country. Warm, friendly, funny
and inquisitive, mixing with the Albanians is guaranteed
to have a lasting and positive effect on everyone who
visits the country.
Alcohol
As is pretty much the same throughout the Balkans, the
local firewater of choice in Albania comes in the form of
a fruit-based brandy known as raki (or rakia). Distilled
using anything from grapes to plums and even mul-
berries, commercially produced raki contains around
40% alcohol, although you may well encounter illicit
moonshine containing at least twice as much as this. Be
careful! At the other end of the scale, Albania’s birra pro-
duction is dominated by the two national brands Birra
Tirana and Birra Korça, both are lager-type concoctions
that are absolutely fine to drink. Alcoholism and drunk-
enness in the streets are minor problems compared to
many other countries in Eastern Europe.
Emergency numbers
Ambulance Tel. 127 / Fire Tel. 128 / Police Tel. 129
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Basics
Communism
There are still plenty of communist-era relics to see in
Tirana, by far the largest and most impressive being the
gargantuan Socialist Realist mosaic adorning the façade
of the National History Museum. Between 1944 and 1991
Albania was one of the most isolated countries in the
world, a violent and paranoid police state that used coer-
cion, torture, false psychological imprisonment and reli-
gious persecution as ways of maintaining law and order.
Although it’s now three decades since Albania threw off
its Marxist-Leninist shackles, many of its citizens still carry
around the various internal scars associated with a violent
and dysfunctional recent past. It would be something of
an exaggeration to claim that Albania is suffering from the
effects of some kind of collective, post-traumatic stress syn-
drome, although there is at least an element of truth in this
supposition. In the meantime, the younger generation of
locals is now exploiting Albania’s former communist past
with various museums, tours and themed bars.
expat activities
Tirana’s local expat community is both long-standing and
ever-growing, with many regular meet-ups. The most
famous group Expats in Albania (www.expatsinalbania.
com) hosts get-togethers at changing venues; Dine-Out
on Tuesday nights, Coffee Catch-Ups on Wednesday
mornings and Friday Night Drinks; their Facebook page
has regular updates. Local food blog HaPiTirana (www.
hapitirana.com) also regularly hosts expat events such
as karaoke or cultural nights, which often include free
food and drinks. For those interested in the outstanding
work being done by the expat community, head to the
Rogner Hotel at 10:30 on Friday morning to mingle and
attend a presentation of the International Friends in Tir-
ana (see their Facebook page for details).
2022 5
 Basics
‘besa’ in the modern day
Many well-seasoned travellers have learnt the
hard way to be extremely wary of anyone who
approaches you. You might instinctively try to wave
away any locals, but be aware that Albania is a
country unlike any other. The concept of besa is one
that is deeply entrenched in local culture, meaning
that any guest is to be considered like one’s own
family. As a foreigner, you are to be given the utmost
respect whilst in the country, and many people will
wish to go out of their way to help you in any way
they can.
Crime & Safety
Believed by many to be a lawless country populated by
bandits and villains whose main goal in life is to separate
tourists from their possessions by any means possible, Al-
bania is in actual fact one of the safest and most relaxed
countries in Europe. This isn’t to say that crime doesn’t exist
of course, there’s plenty of it around, although most is to be
found taking place behind closed doors in the shady un-
derworld of business and politics. As with anywhere else in
the world, there are a few people out there willing to spoil
people’s holidays by stealing their luggage and helping
themselves to wallets and mobile phones left in unatten-
ded jackets and bags. Be vigilant, don’t stroll around dark
neighbourhoods drunk, and you’ll be fine. Gun ownership
in Albania is common, although shootings are almost ex-
clusively the result of internal squabbles and disputes.
Entry requirements
EU citizens as well as those from most other European
countries plus the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and
Japan can enter Albania without a visa. Other travellers
need to get a visa from an Albanian embassy or consulate
abroad before travelling. More information can be found on
the Albanian Ministry of Foreign Affairs website at www.
mfa.gov.al. Passports should be valid for a further three
months after departing Albania. Citizens of the EU, Iceland,
Norway, USA, Canada, Australia and New Zealand have the
option of entering Albania using an ID card, although we
recommend still taking your passport anyway as airlines
and officials are all too quickly confused.
Health
Although we’ve never had any problems with it, many
people advise against drinking the tap water in Albania, es-
pecially in rural areas away from towns and cities. A stom-
ach infection is the last thing anyone needs, so it’s worth
considering sticking to bottled water, which is available
in shops everywhere and extremely cheap. Medical and
dental care in the country are of poor quality, and travelling
with medical insurance is highly recommended. No vac-
cinations are needed when visiting Albania. Raw sewage is
allegedly pumped into the sea at times, so be careful along
the coast near cities and harbours.
6 Tirana In Your Pocket
Local time
Albania is in the Central European Time (CET) zone at
GMT+1hr. When it’s 12:00 in Tirana it’s 06:00 in New York,
11:00 in London and 19:00 in Tokyo. Central European
Summer Time (CEST, GMT+2hrs) falls between the last
Sundays of March and October respectively.
Infrastructure
Not surprisingly for a former communist country still in
transition to a fully functioning and transparent democracy,
Albania’s infrastructure remains something of a mess. Ex-
pect to encounter (and get used to) anomalies including
broken shower doors and bare wires even in some of the
more expensive hotels. Beware of pavements with missing
manhole covers, small lumps of metal sticking out of the
ground and rubbish lying around in the suburbs. Although
service in bars and restaurants is improving, it’s still got a
long way to go, although Albanian waiters (waitresses still
being something of a rarity) are almost universally gregari-
ous. Disabled travellers thinking about visiting Albania,
especially those who generally travel on a budget, should
know right away they’re going to find it a difficult experi-
ence.
Language
Sounding at times not unlike Turkish with the batteries run-
ning out, Albanian is an Indo-European language with its
own isolated linguistic branch. Thought to have originated
from the now long-extinct Illyrian (or possibly Thracian)
language, Albanian consists of two distinct dialects, namely
Gheg, spoken in the north as well as neighbouring Kosovo
and the Albanian-speaking regions of Montenegro and
Macedonia, and Tosk, which is generally confined to the
south of the country. Featuring a Latin alphabet made up
of 36 letters, peculiarities include a propensity to switch the
definite and indefinite endings (thus both Tirana and Tir-
anë) depending on their function within a sentence, a habit
we try to bypass by sticking to the definite ending to avoid
confusion wherever possible. English is widely spoken in
Tirana, especially among the younger generation. A lot of
Albanians also speak Italian, French and, in the south of the
country especially, Greek.
LGBT Albania
Same-gender sex has been legal in Albania since 1995,
although general attitudes are exceedingly conservative
with many Albanians still stuck in the 16th century. Al-
though Tirana is yet to feature rainbow flags and openly
gay bars, the city does at least have one or two gay-friendly
places to eat and drink. Travelling to exotic locations such
as Albania for the LGBT community has been revolution-
ised over the past few years with the help of the internet,
and we strongly recommend locating and connecting with
local LGBT groups and organisations. A law exists in Albania
banning discrimination on the grounds of sexual orienta-
tion and gender identity.

Tirana street art
Money & Costs
The Albanian currency is the lek. Banknotes come in de-
nominations of 5,000 lek, 2,000 lek, 1,000 lek, 500 lek and
200 lek, with coins available in denominations of 100 lek,
50 lek, 20 lek, 10 lek and 5 lek. The lek is a non-convertible
currency and is useless abroad; change it back into your
own currency before leaving Albania. ATMs are found all
over Tirana and charge up to 700 lek per transaction; only
Credins Bank ATMs charge no fee. Cash can be changed
at exchange offices found all over the city and offer good
rates. It’s also possible to change money in banks and many
of the better hotels, although doing so in the latter should
only be considered in an emergency as they always charge
a whopping great commission. Card payments are becom-
ing increasingly common, but if you’re doing anything out-
side the immediate city centre or are planning to travel to
any remote locations, be sure to carry plenty of cash. With
the exceptions of the city’s five-star hotels and luxury res-
taurants, the cost of living for people visiting from the West
remains remarkably affordable.
Religion
Contrary to what many people think, Albania is far from
being an exclusively Muslim country, with less than 60
percent of the population claiming to adhere to Islam, a
faith imported during the Ottoman occupation that many
people originally converted to for economic reasons. Con-
stitutionally a secular country and for two decades during
the Hoxha regime the only atheist country in the world,
Albania’s other main faiths include Orthodox Christianity
and Catholicism. Almost none of the tiny remaining Jewish
population of the country follow Judaism. All of the houses
of worship in Tirana welcome visitors as both tourists and
believers.
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Basics
market values
Slice of byrek 40-100 lek (€0.33-0.80)
Espresso 80-100 lek (€0.70-0.80)
Decent bottle of local wine 350-700 lek (€3-6)
Large Birra Tirana in a bar 250-400 lek (€2-3)
Pack of cigarettes 250-500 lek (€2-4)
Taxi ride across town 400-700 lek (€3.30-6)
Local transport ticket 40 lek (€0.33)
Exchange rate €1=121 lek (May 2022)
When to go
Boasting a Mediterranean climate featuring often
stiflingly hot, dry summers and moderately cool winters
during which temperatures tend to drop severely at
higher altitudes, there’s never an especially bad time
to visit Albania. Tirana itself is buzzing all year round,
with bar and restaurant terraces pretty much never
closing. Choosing exactly when to visit is a matter of
personal preference, although we recommend the late
spring, especially during the month of May when the
spring flowers bloom and it’s possible to walk around in
shirtsleeves without burning to death. If you choose to
visit during the hot summer months and are travelling
on a limited budget, make sure your hotel has air-
conditioning.
Exchange rates: €1=121 lek, $1=115 lek
2022 7
 Arriving & Transport
Getting to Albania has never been this easy, with afford-
able links via land, sea and air. Once you’ve arrived, keep in
mind that as long as you’re on the ground it’s going to be a
bumpy ride, whether you take a taxi, bus, car or train.
Airport
Tirana International Airport
Tirana’s easy-to-use Nënë Tereza international airport is lo-
cated 17km northwest of the city centre near the village of
Rinas, and offers an increasingly interesting range of desti-
nations, many of them on budget airlines. There’s a book-
shop, ATMs, mobile phone shops and cafés. The airport
express bus runs from near Skenderbeg Square hourly
between 07:00 and 19:00 for 250 lek. Alternatively a taxi
costs between 2500-3000 lek, taking 40 minutes.QRinas,
tel. +355 4 2381 800, www.tirana-airport.com.
luggage storage
Luggage Storage Tirana
Professional luggage storage for the Airbnb gener-
ation, 200 metres from Skanderbeg Square. Prices
from 150 lek per hour up to 650 lek per day for two
bags of any size,  3700 lek per bag per week or 4700
lek per month. QRr. Barrikadave, NECI Services, El-
evator A1, 1st floor, tel. +355 69 246 08 22, www.
luggagestoragetirana.com. Open 08:00-21:00.
Safe short and long term
LUGGAGE STORAGE
in central Tirana
OPEN DAILY
from 8am to 9pm
Rr. Barrikadave
tel. +355 69 2460822
www.luggagestoragetirana.com
8 Tirana In Your Pocket
arriving in tirana
Arriving in Tirana in style.
By bus
Most international and domestic buses will drop
you off at the current bus terminal, west of the cen-
tre. The adjacent Ring Center mall has food, ATMs
and toilets. From late summer, buses from the east
and south will soon drop off at the fabulous new
Tirana East Bus Terminal by the TEG mall. Both loca-
tions have bus stops to get to the city centre.
By car
Since the main roads to and within Albania have
been upgraded, driving to Tirana is finally an op-
tion. In summer months you may face long queues
at the border, and keep in mind not all border cross-
ings are open around the clock.
By ferry
Car ferry services from several Italian cities to the
ports of Durrës, Shengjin and Vlora operate all year
round. Flying to Corfu and taking advantage of the
twice-daily passenger ferry to Saranda in the south
of the country is often the cheapest way to reach
southern Albania, though it’s still a long (yet very
scenic) drive to Tirana from there.
By plane
Tirana’s modern Nënë Tereza (Mother Teresa, TIA)
airport, 17km northwest of Tirana, is a 30-minute
drive away from the city centre in good traffic.
Beside the baggage carousel in arrivals there are
ATMs, an exchange office with so-so rates, and a
tourist information desk. Buy a local SIM card at the
mobile phone shops. Ignore taxi drivers harassing
new arrivals and take an official yellow airport taxi
to the centre for 2500 lek during the daytime and
3000 lek between 21:00 and 07:00. Other compa-
nies like Green Taxi charge only half that fee, but
you need to order by phone for a pick-up across
the street at the Jurgen Hotel. Alternatively, hop on
the Rinas Express airport bus to Sheshi Skënderbej;
these depart daily on the hour between 08:00 and
23:00 (from the centre to the airport between 07:00
and 22:00), and tickets cost 400 lek.
By train
Tirana’s train station was regrettably demolished
recently, so bold travellers arriving by train from
Shkodra and Durrës consequently now find them-
selves deposited at Kashar west of town where
shuttle buses take you the final 15km of the journey
to the northern end of Blv. Zogu I. Albania has no
international passenger trains yet.
 Enjoy Albania
within your budget

Make a reservation TODAY!

Mob: +355 67 601 22 72
www.budget.al

Address 1: Tirana International Airport Address 2: Rruga Themistokli Germenji

Tirana, Albania Tirana, Albania
 Arriving & Transport
Car rental
Prices for renting a car in Albania start at around €30 a day
for the cheapest model. Agencies have desks at the airport,
but these are often only staffed on demand, so inform
them in advance before you arrive. Make sure you have the
rental agency telephone number and a good map before
setting off. Albania is now pretty well covered with GPS
making mobile navigation easy.
Avis
The Avis desk at the airport is open 24 hours per day.QH‑5,
Rr. Themistokli Germenji, tel. +355 4 450 05 41/+355 67
60 38 900, www.avis.al. Open 08:30-23:00; Sat, Sun
09:00-21:00.
Budget
QH‑5, Rr. Themistokli Germenji, tel. +355 4 450 05
41/+355 67 60 38 900, www.budget.com. Open 08:30-
23:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00.
Camper Albania
Fully equipped camper vans, from €100 per day. For a
small fee you also get a map marking recommended spots
to park or get fresh drinking water.QManëz, tel. +355 69
526 49 83, www.camper-albania.eu. Always open.
Enterprise
QF‑5, Rr. Durresit, Pall. 106, tel. +355 68 40 23 218,
www.enterprise.com. Open 08:00-20:00.
10 Tirana In Your Pocket
Europecar
QRr. 29 Nentori, tel. +355 4 580 06 00, www.europcar.
com. Open 08:00-16:30; Sat 8:00-13:00; closed Sun.
Airport office open 08:00-23:59.
Hertz
QTirana airport, tel. +355 69 404 74 95/+355
692058775, www.hertzalbania.com. Open 08:00-
20:00; Sun 09:00-17:00.
Sixt
Also at Rr. e Kavajes 50.QTirana airport, tel. +355 4 222
39 96/+355 68 20 68 500, www.sixt.com. Open 08:00-
23:30.
Tirana Car Rentals
Aslo on Rr. Sali Butka.QTirana airport, tel. +355 69 333
35 50, www.albaniaonline.org. 24 hrs.
helicopters
Viva Helicopters
‘Flightseeing’ trips all across Albania and neighbour-
ing countries. The Viva fleet of three helicopters is run
by a German aviation team and based in Baldushk,
15km south of town, with an office on the 3rd floor of
the Galeria ETC mall.QBaldushk, tel. +355 42 27 19
38, www.vivahelicopters.com.

driving
Whist the country’s roads may be improving, the
local drivers who use them continue to be among
the worst imaginable, with road fatality figures some
of the highest in Europe. Disrespectful of the law and
seemingly unaware of the fact that pedestrians are soft
and break easily, the quintessential Albanian motorist
is easily distracted, oblivious to speed limits and would
rather undergo torture than wear a seatbelt. Before
1991, only Party officials were allowed to own and
drive cars, of which there were only about 600 in the
entire country.
Drivers are required by law to have a fire extinguisher,
yellow vest and first aid kit in the car, and always drive
with the lights on. In cities, be aware of everything, in
the countryside, keep an eye out for potholes and don-
keys. In mountain areas, having snow chains during the
winter is a good idea.
Speed limits
Urban areas and villages: 40km/hr
Dual carriageways: 90km/hr
Highways: 110km/hr
All other roads: 80km/hr
Cycling
Back in the good old days when there were 600 cars in Al-
bania, everyone had a bicycle. Now, in Tirana at least, it’s
pretty much the other way round. Thankfully, plenty of
streets have been upgraded with bike lanes in recent years,
and cycling around town is probably nearly as pleasurable
as it must have been in 1991.
Bike Point Albania
Excellent bike shop with rental of city bikes for 1500 lek/
day and mountain bikes from 2500 lek/day, as well as sales
and repairs. Also organises off-road tours around Tirana.
QRr. Myslym Shyri 44/3, tel. +355 68 860 00 60. Open
09:00-13:00, 14:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun.
Cycle Albania
Mountain (e-)bikes, from 1800 lek per day. Also organises
various multi-day tours through Albania.QRr. Bardhok
Biba, tel. +355 69 247 57 28, www.cyclealbania.com.
Open 08:00-17:00.
Evergreen
Mountain bike rental, from 2000 lek per day.QRr. Sami
Frashëri, tel. +355 69 738 69 49. Open 09:00-21:00.
LikSad e-Bike
Luxury e-bikes for rent, suitable for calm trips around town
as well as wild adventures in the mountains. From €24
per day.QRr. Margarita Tutulani, tel. +355 68 349 01 95,
www.liksad.com/sq. Open 07:00-21:00; closed Sun.
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Arriving & Transport
Castle of Tirana
Long-distance buses
With daily departures to all neighbouring countries using
increasingly comfortable air-conditioned buses, travel in
the Balkans is getting easier every year. Domestic destina-
tions are often stll served by furgon minibuses, a transport
choice often held together with little more than tape and
famous for departing only when full. Tirana’s current bus
station is a depressing parking lot west of the centre, but
this summer the new East Bus Terminal should open by the
TEG Mall. Tickets can usually be bought on board, at one of
the ticketing offices along Rruga Mine Peze, or online (in-
ternational services) via www.autobus.al.
Tirana International Bus Terminal (Sta-
cioni Qendror i Linjave Nderkombetare)
Tirana’s first attempt at a bus station can be found behind
the Ring Center mall and the Asllan Rusi sports complex.
Apart from bus company offices, there’s little shelter from
the elements, and no facilities to speak of.QRr. Ali Ko-
lonja, tel. +355 68 406 00 01.
city buses
Tirana’s fleet of buses plies a total of 12 routes between
about 05:00 and 22:00. Get on, pay the conductor 40 lek
and away you go. It’s unlikely you’ll ever have to wait more
than 10 minutes to travel on one, so at these prices and at
this frequency it would be somewhat impolite to complain.
The city centre is so compact that the need to use public
transport won’t happen very often. All buses are marked
with their destinations, making them relatively easy to use.
Speak Shqip: travel terms
airplane - avjon ferry - trageti
airport - aeroport left - majtes
car - veture, makinë right - djathas
train - treni Is it far? - A është larg?
bus - autobus Where am I? - Ku jam?
station (train, bus) - stacion (treni, autobuzi)
2022 11
 Arriving & Transport
Taxi love
Ride sharing
Udhë
Cheap and efficient intercity ride sharing, courtesy of a Ko-
sovo-made app called ‘road’ that connects vetted drivers
with passengers across Albania and Kosovo.Qtel. +383 49
42 92 47, www.merrudhe.com.
Taxis
Taxis are a useful form of transport in Tirana, and, after
22:00, if you’re too tipsy to walk or confidently operate a
bicycle, they’re the only game in town. Several companies
use meters and can print receipts if necessary. Our experi-
ence is that drivers don’t have to be reminded to use them.
Rates start at 300 lek for the first 2km (sufficient for most
city centre trips) and 95 lek/km after that. Between 22:00
and 07:00 the aforementioned start rate rises to 350 lek.
Few drivers speak English, so it’s a good idea to write down
the address, or to telephone someone who can explain.
Airport Express Taxi (ATEX)
The official airport taxis, but not the cheapest ones.Qtel.
+355 67 500 03 00/+355 4 238 7070, www.atex.al. Al-
ways open.
Green Taxis
Electric fleet of taxis; use their website to share your loca-
tion via Whatsapp. Green has an attractive flat airport rate,
with pick-ups from the hotel opposite the terminal.Qtel.
+355 800 20 00, www.green.al.
Merr Taxi
Merr has a fixed rate of 650 lek from central Tirana to the
Dajti Express cable car.Qtel. +355 67 400 66 10/+355 800
5555, www.merrtaxi.com. Always Open.
Speed Taxi
The taxis with the kangaroo. Easy online ride booking.
Qtel. +355 4 222 25 55/+355 69 642 2211, www.
speedtaxi.al.
Taxi Lux Albania
Cheap fixed rates to (1100 lek) and from (1300 lek) the
airport.Qtel. +355 4 562 03 33, www.taxiluxalbania.al.
Always Open.
12 Tirana In Your Pocket
Trains
In an act of madness, Tirana’s train station was demolished
recently, with the nearest station now being 15km away in
Kashar for trains to Durres and Shkodra. With shoddy second
hand carriages, excruciatingly slow speeds and broken win-
dows, Albania’s railway network is strictly for the most hard-
core of train spotters. All is not lost - Albania was awarded a
substantial grant to upgrade the tracks from near Tirana to the
Montenegrin border to handle trains going up to 120 km/hr.
Travel agencies
Albania2Go
A Dutch-Albanian owned company, offering tailor-made
business, leisure and adventure trips across the country.QRr.
Nikolla Jorga 9/1, tel. +355 69 647 88 50, www.albania2go.
com. Open 09:00-20:00.
Albania Holidays
The full range of tours and tourism services.QRr. Tish Dahia,
Kompleksi Kika 1, Shk. 8, Ap.11, tel. +355 4 223 56 88,
www.albania-holidays.com. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 08:00-
16:000; closed Sun.
Albanian Trip
A renowned travel agency that’s committed to sustainable
tours offering ‘handmade’ boutique travel experiences for
groups and individuals, working with specialists and support-
ing local communities where possible. Food, nature, bunkers
and military history are their specialities, and some tours in-
clude a meeting with one of Albania’s famed sworn virgins.
Media productions, private transfers, car rental and booking
of special family-owned accommodation and character
hotels are possible too. Their ‘Villa with a Star’ office is also
home to a quirky memorabilia collection (see Sightseeing).
QRr. Dibres 261/1, tel. + 355 4 220 8414/+355 68 406 62
07, www.albaniantrip.com.
Landways International
Guided city tours, day trips to Apollonia, Berat, Durrës, Kruja
and other destinations, plane tickets, discounted booking of
the best hotels, and much more.QRr. Themistokli Germenji
10, tel. +355 42 255 655, www.landways.eu. Open 08:30-
17:30; closed Sat, Sun.
Outdoor Albania
Tailor-made trips: trekking, mountain biking, rafting, kayak-
ing, mountaineering, paragliding, 4W-driving and more, for
individuals or groups. Even if you’re in just Tirana for a short
while, they can arrange an active day trip in the nearby moun-
tains.QRr. Gjin Bue Shpata 9/1, tel. +355 4 222 71 21, www.
outdooralbania.com. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sun, Sat.
Sondor Travel
A family-run business specialising in culural, mountain and
outdoor holidays.QRr. Çerçiz Topulli, P. Reli, K.1, tel. +355
4 222 50 63/+355 68 40 517 66, www.sondortravel.com.
Open 08:00-18:00; closed Sun.
 History
History of Albania
The origins of today’s Albania can be traced back two-and-
a-half millennia with the settling of the Illyrians in the re-
gion, the people who most agree the modern Albanians
are descended from. Part of the mighty Ottoman Empire
from the end of the 14th century until the beginning of the
20th, and the only people to expel Nazi Germany without
any assistance from a foreign army in 1944, Albania’s most
recent long-term incarnation was as a post-war Commun-
ist country almost complexly isolated from the rest of the
world. The plucky Albanian people have been struggling
with their own unique version of democracy and capitalism
for the last three decades, and it’s anyone’s guess what’s go-
ing to happen next.
4th century
The Roman Empire is divided in 395AD. The territory of
today’s Albania falls into the Eastern (Byzantine) Empire.
14th century
The Ottomans invade what’s now Albania in 1385, a rule
lasting over 500 years.
15th century
Skanderbeg, the Albanian leader, wages a war of inde-
pendence against the Ottomans starting in 1443, and en-
joys remarkable success in keeping them at bay until his
death in 1468.
19th century
After numerous crushed uprisings and the Russian victory
over the Ottoman Empire, the Prizren League is founded in
1878 to fight for Albanian autonomy
14 Tirana In Your Pocket
Looking up inside the entrance to the Bunk’Art 2 museum
20TH CENTURY
Local uprisings break out in 1909-1912. Albanians
proclaim independence in Vlora on November 28,
1912. The Treaty of London recognises Albania in
1913, but Kosovo is given to Serbia. In 1914 Italy
invades Albania. In 1920, Albania regains independ-
ence. In 1925, Ahmet Muhtar Zogolli becomes pres-
ident, but in 1928 he proclaims Albania a kingdom
and crowns himself King Zog I. He cooperates with
the Italians, who invade again in 1939, occupying
Albania until 1943 when Nazi Germany takes over
until their retreat in November 1944. Albania be-
comes the only Nazi-occupied country to have more
Jews living in it at the end of the conflict than when
it began. The Communist-led National Liberation
Front takes power. Yugoslavia, Albania’s erstwhile
ally, tries to absorb the country, causing Albania
to break with Belgrade in 1948. After 1956, when
most of Eastern Europe undergoes de-Stalinisation,
Albania maintains a hard line stance. It criticises
the Soviet Union, with which it breaks relations in
1961. In 1968 Albania withdraws from the Warsaw
Pact and cultivates relations with Communist China.
Imitating Beijing, Albania purges ‘reactionary’ influ-
ences. In its own version of the Cultural Revolution
in 1967, it outlaws religion, closes all 2169 of the
country’s churches and mosques and becomes the
only atheist state in the world. In 1978 the country’s
leaders condemn China as revisionist and Albania is
left with no friends. Party head Enver Hoxha dies on
April 11, 1985.

Post-Communist Albania
1990
After Communism collapses throughout Eastern Europe,
Communist Party leader Ramiz Alia announces cau-
tious democratisation in March. The People’s Assembly
reverses the ban on religion and travel abroad in May.
On December 12 the Democratic Party is founded. Nine
days later, the authorities remove the statue of Stalin in
Tirana.
1991
In February, students at Enver Hoxha University launch
a strike. Weeks of protests culminate in the toppling
of Enver Hoxha’s statue in Sheshi Skënderbej. Waves of
refugees flee the country in March. On March 31 the first
multi-party elections in 68 years result in a victory for the
Communists. In June, the faults in the economy become
clear when thousands of Albanians seeking asylum in
Italy commandeer ships. An estimated 100,000 Albani-
ans flee the country in 12 months.
1997
Collapsing pyramid schemes spark months of rioting
and lawlessness in January. In June, parliamentary elec-
tions result in a landslide victory for the Socialists. Pres-
ident Berisha, blamed for allowing the pyramid schemes
to flourish, resigns.
1999
In response to Serb attacks on ethnic Albanians in
Kosovo, NATO launches an air war on Yugoslavia on
March 25. The war turns Albania into a NATO base of
operations, and by May 500,000 Kosovan refugees have
flooded into the country.
2001
In October, Edi Rama, a former art lecturer and painter
supported by the Socialist Party, is elected mayor of Tir-
ana and initiates a series of projects that change the face
of the city.
2005
In July, Sali Berisha’s Democratic Party wins the national
elections from Fatos Nano’s Socialists. The election res-
ults are delayed after allegations of voting irregularities
and three deaths. OSCE monitors report that the elec-
tions only partially complied with international stand-
ards. Novelist Ismail Kadare wins the first international
version of Britain’s Man Booker Prize.
2006
Albania signs the Stabilisation and Association Agree-
ment with the EU, the first step towards closer coopera-
tion with the economic superpower.
2007
US President George W. Bush gets a hero’s welcome on
his visit to Albania.
tirana.inyourpocket.com
History
2008
In March, explosions in a factory used for defusing old
munitions wipe out the village of Gërdec, 14km from
Tirana, killing 26 and wounding nearly 300. Hundreds of
houses are destroyed, windows of cars on the highway
are shattered, and the blast is heard as far away as Skopje,
200km to the east.
2009
In April Albania joins NATO. In June Berisha’s Democratic
Party narrowly wins the national elections, which were
marred by continuing irregularities.
2010
The EU allows visa-free travel for Albanians to Europe’s
Schengen countries.
2011
In January, violent opposition protests erupt after a video
exposes corruption by the vice prime minister Illir Meta.
Three demonstrators are killed by guards at the Prime
Minister’s residence.
2012
The presidential elections turn into a farce when talks
between the main party leaders Edi Rama and Sali Berisha
fall apart. Two candidates withdraw before the Minister of
Internal Affairs Bujar Nishani is elected with a majority of
73 votes. In November, Albania celebrates 100 years since
its declaration of independence. The EU integration pro-
cess stalls when the country is refused candidate member
status.
2013
Tirana mayor Edi Rama of the Socialist Party becomes
prime minister, winning elections again in 2017 and 2021.
He sets about gradually modernising the economy. In
2015, the 36-year-old Socialist Erion Veliaj becomes Tir-
ana’s mayor.
2019
On 26 November, western Albania is shaken by a
6.4-magnitude earthquake, the strongest tremor in 40
years, resulting in 51 casualties, thousands wounded and
substantial damage, mainly in the Durres area.
2020
The Covid-19 pandemic reaches Albania in March, with
lockdowns lifted after a relatively short time to limit eco-
nomic effects. By 2022, Albania had 275,000 cases, with
nearly 3500 deaths. Vaccinations started in early 2021, but
have so far reached less than half the population.
2022
The war in Ukraine accelerates inflation, with prices of
food, petrol and rents rising and resulting in demonstra-
tions. Petrol prices are capped but are still some of the
highest in Europe.
 
2022 15
 Culture & Events
Tirana is bustling with events this summer, and we’ve lis-
ted a few highlights here. Beside posters on the streets, the
websites of Tirana XXL (www.tiranaxxl.al), the city’s parks
department (www.aprtirana.al) and Visit Tirana (www.
visit-tirana.com/things-to-do/events) are good sources of
up-to-date events information. It that fails, ask anyone with
an interesting haircut.

Festivals
Tirana European Youth Capital 2022
A major festival with international youth-related events
spread throughout the year, www.tiranaeyc2022.al/en.
JKN International Cultural Weeks
A festival presenting the sounds, images, aromas and tastes
of 18 countries, conceived as an international cultural
parade and extended throughout the year. Throughout
2022, schedule at www.jkn.al.
Tirana Photo Festival
9-23 September, Galeria e Artit, Rruga e Kavajës 5
The country’s largest photography event. www.tiranapho-
tofestival.com
National Historical Museum events
Full information at www.mhk.gov.al.
Spring art exhibition, 1-15 June;
European Day of Cultural Heritage, ­26-30
September. A photo exhibition about archaeological parks.
Egypt’s cultural weeks, 19-30 September.
sports events
UEFA Europa Conference League final, Roma v Feyenoord
Rotterdam: 25 May, National Stadium;
Tiranathlon: 29 May, Farkë lake.
beach festivals
Head to the coast for some of Albania’s best festivals this year.
A night at the opera, by Albina Caci
opera & ballet schedule
L’Elisir D’amore 5, 6, 7, 8 May
Verdi off Flash mob (La Traviata) (Pazari i Ri ) 11 May
Verdi off - Ballo in suits 12 May
Ballet Monger 15, 16 May
Tonin Harapi, requiem concert 17 May
Verdi off (Rigoletto) (Grand Park) 18 May
AP Cycle, Golden necklace
“Voice of the soul” Lefter Çipa concert 27 May
Symphonic Concert 28 May
G.Verdi “Un Ballo in Maschera” 2, 3, 4, 5 June
Concert “Artists of the future”
& Carmina Burana (Grand Park) 21 June
British concert 25 June
Generation after generation “Sounds of my city”
(in Korça, Përmeti and Erseka) 25 June
(in Fieri, Lushnja and Tepelena) 16 July
Symphony Concert 27 June
Ballet “La Stravaganza” 29 June
Ballet “Metangata & Tanzminiature” 30 June
American Concert 4 July
Bridges of culture - British Concert (Grand Park) 21 June
Concert “Bylbyli sings” (Grand Park) 20, 21 July

South Outdoor Festival Anjunadeep fest

29 April - 3 May, www.southoutdoor.al. Sports, culture,
tradition, music, nature and food festival in Borsh. Also with
sports activities and excursions with Landways.
UNUM Festival
1-6 June, www.unumfestival.com. Electronic music fest-
ival at Rana e Hedhun beach in Shëngjin, with 50 interna-
tional and local acts over the course of 5 days and 4 nights.
15-22 June, www.anjunadeep.com. Five nights of music,
connection and discovery in Dhërmi.
ION Festival
7-14 September, www.ionalbania.com. A music event
in Dhërmi that’s a real holiday experience, with electronic
music’s best artists.

Hospitality on the Beach

1-7 June, www.hospitalityonthebeach.com. A drum &
Bass music festival at Tisno’s Garden Resort in Dhërmi.

Kala Festival
8-15 June, www.kala.al. A boutique festival with laid-back
music, wellness activities and food on Dhërmi beach. Tirana ballet, by Albina Caci

16 Tirana In Your Pocket


tirana film festival
The 20th edition of Tirana’s film festival is promising to
be bigger and better than ever before, with visits by
local, regional and international filmmakers, screenings
of hundreds of fiction, documentary, animation, experi-
mental short films and videos from dozens of countries.
The festival is unique for showing the works of young Al-
banian film, video, and media artists, and by directors from
Kosovo. The screening venue is the Millennium Cinema.
Tirana Film Festival, Cinema Short Film Festival, 24-
30 September, www.tiranafilmfest.com.
Art spaces
Tirana’s beating art heart. See also the Destil Creative Hub
on p.42.
Tirana Ekspres
The railway warehouse where Tirana’s most exciting ‘art
space’ started off was unfortunately bulldozed, but they’ve
popped up again near the main market to organise art exhi-
bitions and events ranging from performances, shows and
film screenings to party nights.QE‑6, Rr. Hoxha Tahsin,
tel. +355 69 656 90 03, www.tiranaekspres.com. Open
08:00-24:00. Open for events only, usually 21:00-24:00.
Tulla Culture Center
A wonderful space for alternative culture, art and music
and a cafe too.QI‑2, Rr. Hiqmet Delvina 4/2, tel. +355
69 382 96 19, www.tulla.tv. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat, Sun
11:00-15:00. Free entry.
Cinemas
Films are usually shown in their original languages with Al-
banian subtitles. Tickets generally cost from between 400-
600 lek. The Tirana International Film Festival takes place
every year in September.
Cineplexx
Seven screening rooms showing mostly blockbuster films.
Cineplexx also has screens at the QTU mall on the Durres
highway.QTirana East Gate mall (TEG), tel. +355 44 50
02 40, www.cineplexx.al.
Marubi Film & Multimedia Academy
Regular free screenings of a wide range of films inside the
city’s only film school, northeast of the centre near the
Kinostudio bus line terminus.QRr. Aleksandër Moisiu 78,
tel. +355 69 207 95 17, www.afmm.edu.al.
Millennium
Recent American films in their original language with Al-
banian subtitles. Book in advance for evening and week-
end screenings.QF‑5, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 4 225
36 54, www.kinemamillennium.com.
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
Cultural centres
Not only do these foreign-run centres allow locals and
foreigners alike access to many materials, they are import-
ant promotors of international culture, and support many
events.
Alliance Française
Borrow French books or language-learning materials.
QD‑4/5, Rr. Barrikadave 122, tel. +355 4 222 56 97,
www.aftirana.org. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:00;
closed Sun.
American Corner
Browse American literature, history books, periodicals
and more at this centre beside the US Embassy. Also at
the USAID center.QH/I‑6, Rr. Elbasanit, tel. +355 4 224
72 85. Open 08:00-20:00; closed Sat, Sun.
British Council
The UK cultural and educational centre.QE‑2, Rr. Sami
Frasheri, tel. +355 4 224 08 56, www.britishcouncil.
org/albania. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun.
Goethe Institut
The German cultural centre has a reading room with text-
books and literature inside the National Library.QH‑5/6,
Rr. Skënderbej 1, tel. +355 4 224 5510, www.goethe.
al/sq. Open 09:00-12:00, 14:00-17:00; Sat 08:00-14:00;
closed Sun.
Istituto Italiano di Cultura
The Italian Institute of Culture offers cultural events and
language courses.QH‑6, Sheshi Skenderbej, Pallati i Kul-
tures, Kati II, tel. +355 4 237 95 79, www.iictirana.esteri.
it/IIC_Tirana/it. Open 10:00-12:30; Tue, Thu 10:00-
12:30, 15:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun.
Theatre, Opera & Dance
ArTurbina Theater
QRr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4 222 30 22, www.
teatrikombetar.gov.al. Open 09:00-13:00/16:00-
19:00.
Opera, Ballet & Popular Ensemble The-
atre
Performances by Tirana’s enthusiastic opera company,
with English surtitles shown above the stage.QE‑4,
Sheshi Skënderbej, Palace of Culture, tel. +355 4 222
74 71, www.tkob.gov.al. Ticket office open 10:00-14:00,
16:00-20:00. Tickets 500-2500 lek.
The Puppet Theatre (Teatri Kombëtar i
Fëmijëve)
Occasional puppet shows for children in a grand old build-
ing.QE/F‑4, Rr. Çamëria, tel. +355 4 222 24 46, www.
qkkf.gov.al. Open 08:00-20:00.
2022 17
 Feature, feature, feature
Kruja
Kruja, an evocative town set 600 metres high on a moun-
tainside, 30 kilometres north of Tirana, is a recommended
destination to visit for both its stunning location and im-
portance to Albania’s history. With origins stretching back
to the Iron Age, the town has the distinction of being the
capital of the first autonomous Albanian state at the end
of the 12th century and the place where the noble warrior
and national hero Skanderbeg held the Ottomans at bay
during the 15th century. Kruja features a handful of inter-
esting sights to keep visitors busy for a few hours, including
an inhabited ancient citadel holding a faux medieval castle
built in 1982 to house a Skanderbeg museum, and a bet-
ter-than-average Ethnographic Museum. The town is also a
popular destination for shoppers, as the Old Bazaar beside
the city walls has the best range of traditional Albanian gifts
and souvenirs in the country. Kruja is particularly lovely dur-
ing the winter when the town is often covered in snow. The
restaurants at the top end of the citadel offer great views
View over Kruja
18 Tirana In Your Pocket
of the surroundings and serve traditional Albanian food
at tourist prices. Turkish coffee comes in a traditional cop-
per pot and is best enjoyed curled up on the pillows that
surround the low tables of some restaurants. There are a
few hotels scattered around town, plus one or two more
secluded places to sleep on the surrounding mountainside
and a camping site on the winding road up from the valley
below. Most easily reached by driving a short detour via
the airport road or Vorë, Kruja is indeed easily visited on
your way to or from the airport. On the way there, don’t
miss Europe’s only statue of President George W. Bush.
Minibuses to Kruja depart from Tirana regularly and cost
around 300 lek; a taxi ride will costs around 3000 lek.
Places of interest
Kruja citadel (Kalaja e Krujës)
Kruja’s legendary fortress is perched on an outcrop of rock
overlooking the valley. Its walls withstood waves of Turk-
ish sieges, only finally being conquered well after Skander-
beg’s death. Entering the city gate from the Old Bazaar,
you first come across the ruins of the old mosque of Sultan
Mehmet Fath, dating back to 1478, just below the Sken-
derbeg Museum. Beyond that stands the Ethnographic
Museum. Take a right down some lovely cobbled lanes
to enter the inhabited part of the fortress; you’ll pass the
hamam from around 1480 and finally the Dollma tekke, a
Sufi shrine built in 1780 by the Toptani family (being reno-
vated at time of writing). Outside are the graves of several
babas and a dervish (holy men), shaded by a 500-year-old
olive tree, said to have been planted to commemorate
Skanderbeg’s wedding. A hole in the city wall near here
offers great views over to the Adriatic Sea.
 Kruja
Dubya in Kruja
George W. Bush statue
The unremarkable market town of Fushë-Kruje on the
approach to Kruja hosts the only statue to US president
George W. Bush in Europe on its main crossroads,
with the plaque describing him as a “great friend
of the Albanians”. This may have been torn down in
any other country, but here goes to show Albania’s
long fascination with the land of the bald eagle, and
its gratitude for US help during the Kosovo conflict.
Bush is depicted with his sleeves rolled up during his
visit to Albania in
2007, and legend
Skenderbeg Museum, Kruja goes that he lost
his wristwatch
Skenderbeg Museum (Gjergj Kastrioti while greeting
Skënderbeu Museum) enthusiastic
Built to honour Albania’s most-loved national hero, this crowds in this
large and somewhat ostentatious museum is something town, something
of a pilgrimage site for Albanians from across the Balkans. later denied by
Set in a fake castle built in 1982, the halls hold a huge di- US officials. Just
orama of the man and copies of things such as his sword around the corner
and spiky helmet - the originals are in Vienna. The ticket there’s also a great
office doubles as a small bookshop, and occasionally byrek bakery and a
stocks interesting historical books in English.QKalaja e bar named after the
Skenderbeut, tel. +355 511 222 25. Open 09:00-17:00; former statesman.
Sun 09-00-14:00. Admission 500 lek. QFushë-Kruje.
Bye bye watch
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeu Et-
nografik)
A seriously beautiful traditional Albanian house built
around 1800, exhibits on display include 19th-century where to eat
women’s folk dress, traditional copper goods and clay Bardhi
utensils and some gorgeous pieces of original furniture. An atmospheric, traditional-style building on the far edge
The friendly gentleman who looks after the place can take of Kruja’s citadel, with awe-inspiring drops right beside
you on an English-language tour of the rooms to give you the terrace, Bardhi is Kruja’s best option for farm-to-table
the full and fascinating story of the place.QKalaja e Sken- food, with menu full of Albanian dishes made with organic
derbeut, Kruja, tel. +355 511 222 25. Open 09:00-18:00. products from the Bardhi family farm. Try the delicious
Admission 400 lek. bruschetta starters before moving on to a ‘village rooster’,
grilled lamb ribs or calf liver with cheese - or settle for
quality pasta or pizza. Home-made cheese, pots of jam,
compote and pickles as well as wine and raki are also for
sale here.QRr. Kala, Kruja, tel. +355 69 209 88 75, www.
restorantbardhi.com. Open 09:00-22:00. €€€. A­P­
T­B­L

where to stay
Panorama Hotel Kruja
Not called the Panorama for nothing, this popular hotel
right next to the Old Bazaar comes with well-equipped
rooms, the best of them boasting balconies with views to
die for. The hotel’s two restaurants churn out a magnifi-
cent array of local dishes.QRr. Kalase, tel. +355 511 243
36, www.hotelpanoramakruje.com. 85 rooms (singles
Old Bazaar, Kruja
€45, doubles €45, triples €55). A­P­U­B­V­W­
K ­i
19 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
 Sightseeing
The new Namazgah Mosque in central Tirana
Tirana’s strengths lie not in landmark sights to be crossed
off a bucket list, but in its vibrancy and the warmth of the
people who live in it, qualities many better-known cities
lack. Tirana is very much a city for the flâneur, a chaotic
urban concoction, bursting with unexpected sights and
sounds that are best appreciated whilst strolling its streets
in a leisurely fashion. If you must see a must-see, make it
the Et’hem Bey Mosque.
Places of interest
Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit
The “Boulevard of the Martyrs of the Nation” is a wide
and impressive kilometre-long road stretching north-
south between Sheshi Skënderbej and Sheshi Nënë
Tereza. The work of the Italian architect and engineer
Gherardo Bosio (1903-1941) and still featuring many of
the original examples of fascist architecture that were
built along its edges and around its squares, the street
dates from 1939-1941 and is the only thoroughfare in the
city that gives any sense of Tirana being anything other
than a typical medium-sized Balkan town. Several of the
city’s better museums can be found along it, among
them the National Archaeological Museum, the National
Art Gallery and, at its furthest northern point, the mo-
saic-clad National History Museum. With the addition of
the Et’hem Bey Mosque and new office blocks spring-
ing up along its length, the street offers something of a
condensed history lesson of the city in one architectural
ensemble.QC‑4, I‑5.
Mosaic of Tirana (Mozaiku i Tiranës)
Thought by many to be the remains of a Byzantine-era
Roman villa built on this site in the 3rd century AD and
uncovered in 1972, this small but recommended attrac-
tion features not only some well preserved mosaic floors
as the name suggests but also a collection of beautiful
carved stones complete with religious motifs that have
20 Tirana In Your Pocket
led some to believe the original building that stood here
was in fact a church. The jury is still out, and for the aver-
age visitor the debate is of little importance. Well worth
an hour or so of anyone’s time, despite the lack of expla-
nations in English and the fact that it’s in the middle of a
residential area.QE‑2, Rr. Naim Frashëri, tel. +355 4 222
60 05. Open 08:00-17:00; closed Sun. Admission free.
The Blloku
‘The block’ is a relatively small patchwork of streets in
southwest central Tirana, saturated with some of the best
bars, restaurants and shops in the city. After the war, the
area was full of factories that were cleared to make way
for an enclosed and guarded complex of luxury residential
buildings for the exclusive use of the country’s ruling elite.
Opened to the public during the political changes of the
early 1990s, the Blloku is the place to come for fine dining,
people-watching from one of the countless outdoor ter-
races, endlessly driving around in circles in expensive cars,
and generally showing off.QH‑4.
The Pyramid (Piramida)
The pyramid, as it’s popularly known, opened in 1988
as a museum dedicated to the recently deceased Alba-
nian dictator-cum-pharaoh Enver Hoxha. Designed by
Hoxha’s daughter Pranvera, the building was reportedly
the most expensive ever constructed in Albania. After
the regime collapsed, the place became a conference
centre and location of a club (called The Mummy, what
else?). Demonstrations prevented plans to demolish the
structure and currently it is being converted into an ed-
ucational centre for children - with a publicly accessible
rooftop area. After it’s finished, we may be able to view
the Peace Bell in front of the building again, an installa-
tion from 1999 that’s a memorial to peace made by the
children of Shkodra. The metal for the bell came from
thousands of bullet cartridges fired off during the lawless
1990s.QG‑5, Blv. Bajram Curri.

tourist information
TIA Tourist Information Center
A useful tourist information kiosk in the airport arriv-
als hall.QTirana Airport, tel. +355 4 238 49 80. Open
09:00-19:00.
Tourist Infopoint
The official tourist information office is right behind
the National History Museum. There’s friendly and
knowledgeable staff at hand to answer question and
give tips, as well as books to browse through and city
maps to take away.QE‑4, Rr. Ded Gjo Luli 4, tel. +355
4 222 33 13, www.visit-tirana.com. Open 08:00-
16:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun.
Churches & Mosques
Despite the former Communist regime’s total ban on reli-
gion starting in 1967 in which all 2169 religious buildings
in Albania were closed and religious leaders of every faith
persecuted, imprisoned, tortured and murdered, contem-
porary Albania has witnessed something of a religious re-
vival since the regime change of 1991. As Tirana’s skyline
suggests, the Albanian capital is home to believers from
a number of faiths including both Sunni and Bektashi
Muslims, Catholics and members of the Orthodox Auto-
cephalous Church of Albania.
Bektashi World Centre (Qendra
Botërore Bektashiane)
The Bektashi Order is a dervish sect that fuses elements
of predominantly Shia and Sufi thought into a unique
blend of Islamic belief and philosophy. Founded by Balim
Sultan (1457-1517) and named in honour of the Muslim
mystic Haji Bektash Veli (1209-1271), the Bektashi were
found throughout the Ottoman Empire and had among
their followers the Albanian national heroes Ali Pasha
and Naim Frashëri. The Bektashi Order was outlawed by
Mustafa Kemal Atatürk soon after the foundation of the
Republic of Turkey in 1923, an event that led them to move
their headquarters to Albania in 1925. The fabulous Bek-
tashi World Centre northeast of central Tirana features a
vast and impressive tekke with a fascinating museum
in its basement and a small gift shop. Hidden in a net-
work of small streets east of the city centre, follow the
Kryegjyshata Botërore Bektashiane Selia e Shenjtë signs.
QRr. Dhimitër Kamarda, tel. +355 67 308 82 71, www.
kryegjyshataboterorebektashiane.org. Open 10:00-
13:00, 17:00-19:00. Admission free.
Christ’s Resurrection Cathedral (Kated-
ralja Ringjalljes se Krishti)
Opened in 2012 and now the main centre for the Orthodox
Autocephalous Church of Albania, the mighty Christ’s Res-
urrection Cathedral has a floor plan of some 1,660 square
metres and features an unattached, 46-metre bell tower
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
balkan Books: Minarets
A fascinating travel book
about the Muslim history
in the Western Balkans that
is at the same time a quest
for personal identity, and
the origins of European
Islamophobia. Londoner
Tharik Hussain, family in tow,
tours the region, visiting
mosques, Sufi lodges and
Ottoman architecture,
following the footsteps of
the 17th-century explorer
and travel writer Evliya Çelebi. He spends time in
Albania too, visiting the legacy of nearly six centuries of
incorporation in the Ottoman Empire, passing through
Vlora, Gjirokastra, Berat, Tirana and Kruja. Hussain chats
with locals everywhere about their relation to and
opinions on Islam, meeting critics and converts, and
discussing Albania’s curious mix of Bektashi sufism and
newer, more conservative Muslim belief.
Minarets in the Mountains, by Tharik Hussain, 2021,
Bradt www.bradt.co.uk
equipped with 16 bells and topped with four symbolic
candles, the small Nativity Chapel and even a museum
in the basement. The building conforms to no traditional
ecclesiastical style, and is quite simply ostentatious and
vulgar in equal amounts. To see it at its best, make a visit
after dark when the entire structure lights up like a Las Ve-
gas casino. Note that, unlike in for example the Orthodox
churches of Russia, where the congregation stands, this
building is full of seating.QF‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova.
Namazgah Mosque (Xhamia e Namazgjasë)
Planned and argued over since 1992 and under construction
since 2015, the huge Namazgah Mosque is nearing com-
pletion. With four 50-metre high minarets and a 30-metre
high central dome, the Turkish-style mosque is the largest
in the Balkans, funded indirectly by the Turkish state and
presented as a symbol of the brotherhood between the
two nations. When finished, it will have space for up to 4500
worshippers, a cultural centre, exhibition hall, a library and
underground parking.QF‑5, Rr. George W. Bush.
Orthodox Cathedral (Katedralja Or-
todokse ‘Ngjallja e Krishtit’)
The ‘Resurrection of Christ’ Orthodox Cathedral, the third
largest in Europe, was consecrated in 2012 and has a
32-metre high dome and a separate 46-metre high bell
tower with four lights symbolising the evangelists who
proclaimed Christ’s resurrection. Below the frescoed main
space, there’s a large hall for meetings and conferences,
and a small museum.QF‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova 1, tel.
+355 4 225 72 61, www.orthodoxalbania.org.
2022 21
 Sightseeing
Sacred Heart Church (Kisha e Zemres se
Shenjte)
Tirana’s oldest surviving Catholic church was built in 1865
as a gift from the emperor Franz Joseph. Closed in 1967
at the start of the regime’s campaign against religion, the
building functioned as a cinema until the early 1990s. For
a Catholic church, the interior is incredibly modest. The
newer St. Paul’s Cathedral is now the main Catholic church
in town.QF‑3, Rr. Kavajës, tel. +355 4 224 86 91.
St. Paul’s Cathedral (Katedralja e Shën
Palit)
This refreshingly simple if somewhat gargantuan house
of worship was consecrated in 2002. The cathedral is built
using a combined triangle and circle shape, representing
the Trinity and God’s Eternity respectively, and features a
relatively plain interior. The stained glass windows at the
front feature both Mother Teresa, whose statue can also be
found in the garden, and Pope John Paul II, who visited the
site of the church and laid the cornerstone in 1993. A range
of classical music concerts are held inside the building
throughout the year. Mass in English on Sunday at 09:00.
QG‑5, Blv. Zhan D’Ark. Open 07:00-19:00.
Dajti Mountain
At 1613m high, Dajti is Tirana’s own little mountain, easily
accessed by cable car and a great option for a meal with
breathtaking views, difficult hikes to the top, or wild bike
rides back down to town. Most visitors rarely step out-
side the immediate area around the top cable car station,
1050 metres above sea level, where there’s a large picnic
field, minigolf and a kids’ adventure park.
Dajti Express (Teleferiku)
A lovely 15-minute, 5-kilometre cable car ride across
fields, forests, a lake and bunkers takes you up to the
top station at 1050 metres above sea level, well below
the peak, which is difficult to reach. Restaurant Ballkoni
Dajtit offers great views across the city; next door the
Dajti Tower Hotel has 24 rooms, a viewing platform
and a rotating bar. The lower cable car station is
reached on the Porcelan bus line from the city centre,
or call Merr Taxi for their 650 lek fixed-rate fee. Easy
to combine with the Bunk’Art 1 exhibition, right be-
low the lower station.QRr. Mahmut Allushi, tel. +355
67 401 10 35, www.dajtiekspres.com. Open 09:00-
21:00; closed Tue. Return trip 1200 lek.
22 Tirana In Your Pocket
Museums & Galleries
Archaeological Museum (Muzeu Arke-
ologjik i Tiranës)
Part of Albania’s Institute of Archaeology of the Acad-
emy of Sciences, this museum offers a fascinating jour-
ney into the country’s early history, from antiquity to
the Middle Ages. Items on display range from ancient
jewellery to Roman statues to vast clay pots covered
in shellfish, found during the many archaeological field
trips the museum is involved in. Visitors with a real in-
terest in the subject are encouraged to contact the mu-
seum in advance to arrange a guided tour.QI‑5, Sheshi
Nënë Tereza 3, tel. +355 42 24 07 13, www.asa.edu.
al/site/ma. Open 09:00-14:00. Admission 300 lek.
Armed Forces Museum (Muzeu i Forcave
të Armatosura)
Set inside the Skënderbej garrison complex just off
Rruga e Dibres, the well-designed Armed Forces Mu-
seum greets visitors with a whopping big SAM-2 an-
ti-aircraft missile in the lobby. There are exhibitions
on the military history from 1470-1939, the 1939-1945
Liberation War, and the Cold War years of 1945-1990 -
including gas masks for horses as well as all the usual le-
thal hardware. More heavy metal can be viewed in the
courtyard, where they keep the big stuff: planes, tanks,
a helicopter, an armoured personnel carrier and artil-
lery. Foreigners need to apply for their visit by emailing
a scan of their ID or passport at least 3 days in advance;
locals just need to bring ID.  QRr. e Dibres, tel. +355
4 510 18 00, www.mod.gov.al. Open 09:00-16:00; Fri
09:00-13:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
National Gallery of Arts & The Cloud
(Galeria Kombëtare e Arteve)
Closed for extensive renovations at time of writing, the
excellent collection of the National Art Gallery with its
Socialist Realist paintings should not be missed once it
reopens in 2023 (we’re hoping the statues of Lenin and
Stalin that used to be hidden away will be put on dis-
play again). On the lawn in front of the museum stands
Sou Fujimoto’s wondrous and accessible ‘Cloud’ struc-
ture (Reja), an installation made of hard white metal,
yet resembling a puffy cloud, especially when it’s lit
up at night.QF‑4/5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, www.
galeriakombetare.gov.al. Open 10:00-18:00; closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 200 lek.
National History Museum (Muzeu His-
torik Kombëtar)
Behind the famous mosaic (currently being renovated),
the country’s most important museum has three floors
dedicated to individual social and political periods of
Albanian history from its very beginnings through to
the communist period. Despite only having decent
English captions in the antiquity section, this museum
has beautiful and unexpected surprises in abundance.
Among the expected felt hats, pointy shoes and pho-

city tours
Albi City Walks
Explore Tirana with an enthusiastic young local who
enjoys showing foreigners around his home town. Albi
Kusuri usually meets visitors on Fridays at 17:00 for an
informative three-hour stroll past all the main sights,
but can also do themed walks on communism, food
and (his favourite one) religion. Give him a call to ar-
range meeting at another time and place.Qtel. +355
69 55 81 794.
Tirana Free Tour
Tirana walking tours by enthusiastic local guides,
starting under the porch of the opera building. The
4km route takes around 2-2.5 hours and covers all
main sights and the city’s recent history. There’s no
fee, but tips are appreciated. Book ahead if you’re
bringing more than 7 people, for joining the com-
munism-themed tour on Saturday at 15:00 (€10), or
the day trips to Kruja, Durres, Berat or Shkodra.QE‑4,
Sheshi Skënderbej, tel. +355 69 631 58 58, www.
tiranafreetour.com. Tours daily at 10:00 and 18:00,
Oct-Mar 10:00 and 14:00.
tographs of Ottoman-era Tirana before Enver Hoxha’s
ideology and the bulldozers wrecked it, find some real
treats, among them a red room with hundreds of Or-
thodox icons and the spectacularly named Pavilion of
the National Liberation Antifascist War, which remains
the only place in the city where you’ll find informa-
tion on the amazing story of the Holocaust in Albania.
The gift shop has books, traditional textiles and other
souvenirs. With the addition of more explanations in
English, this museum could become a genuinely out-
standing one.QE‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej, tel. +355 4
222 39 77, www.mhk.gov.al. Open 09:00-19:00. Ad-
mission 500 lek.
Natural Sciences Museum (Muzeu i
Shkencave Të Natyrës)
Albania’s national zoological collection has over 100
thousand specimens from the countries’ rich flora and
fauna, some dating back to 1900, of which some 3000
are on display in this museum just east of the centre.
These include the skeleton of an unfortunate whale
that stranded on Albania’s shore, stuffed Dalmatian
pelicans and colourful butterfly specimens. Some inter-
esting exhibits arrived here as gifts or purchases from
befriended communist nations.QRr. Todi Shkurti, tel.
+355 68 694 66 91. Open 08:00-16:30; closed Sat,
Sun. Admission 50 lek.
Radio & Television Museum
A small, specialist exhibition inside the lobby of the Al-
banian public broadcaster RTSH, explaining the history
of radio and television in Albania in a handful of ex-
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
hibits, including an early wooden Adriatik television, a
Chinese studio camera that fell to pieces in less than six
months, and lots of interesting photographs.QH‑5, Rr.
Papa Gjon Pali II, tel. +355 4 222 84 44, www.rtsh.al.
Open 08:00-16:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Villa with a Star Memorabilia Collec-
tion (Albanian Trip)
The Albanian Trip travel agency has a great little col-
lection of Communist-era memorabilia on display at
their office, where visitors are welcomed with Turkish
coffee or raki plus a quick explanation of the objects.
Book your visit in advance by email.QC‑5, Rr. Dibres
261/1, tel. + 355 4 220 8414, www.albaniantrip.com.
Open 10:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admission free,
donations appreciated.
Ottoman Tirana
Tirana existed and grew under Ottoman rule for 500
years. For lovers of Ottoman architecture however, the
news isn’t good. A great many of the city’s original Ot-
toman-era buildings were destroyed by Mussolini and
Hoxha, and, with the exception of the buildings listed
below, little of the original Ottoman city exists. There are
some exceptions however, most notably in the area im-
mediately northeast of Sheshi Skënderbej.
Clock Tower (Kulla e Sahatit)
Tirana’s Ottoman Clock Tower was built by the poet
Haxhi Et’hem Bey and dates from 1822. Completed by
the locals and extended to 35m in 1928 when a Ger-
man-made clock was also installed (the current Chinese
clock is the fourth in the tower’s existence), it was for a
long time the tallest building in the city. The climb up
the 90 steps to the top is worth it for the views of the
main square.QF‑4/5, Sheshi Skënderbej, tel. +355 4
224 32 92. Open 08:00-15:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed
Sun. Admission 200 lek.
Et’hem Bey Mosque (Xhamia e Et’hem
Beut)
Construction of this gorgeous little mosque was started
in the early 1790s by Molla Bey, a task that wasn’t com-
pleted for another three decades when the build-
ing was finally finished by his son, Haxhi Et’hem Bey.
Closed under Communist rule, the building reopened
as a house of worship in January 1991 without the per-
mission of the authorities. Some 10,000 courageous
people dared to attend prayers, and remarkably the po-
lice did nothing to intervene, an event now hailed as a
milestone in the rebirth of religious freedom in Albania.
Take a look at the colourful frescoes outside and in the
portico which depict trees, waterfalls and bridges - mo-
tifs rarely seen in Islamic art. Take your shoes off before
entering. Friday prayers at 13:30 from May-Sep, 12:30
Oct-Apr.QF‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej. Open 08:00-22:00,
closed for 45 minutes each prayer time.
2022 23
 Sightseeing
House of the Dervish Khorosani (Shtepia
e Dervish Khorosani)
A beautiful 19th-century wooden building set in a small
courtyard. Next to the gate is an octagonal türbe hold-
ing the graves of three babas. Find the house in a small
courtyard beside the Sami Frasheri school.QD‑4, Rr. Bar-
rikadave, tel. +355 69 728 81 11. Open only By ordering.
Admission free.
adventure tourism
Zip Line Albania
Albania’s first zipline, in the beautiful setting ot the
Erzen river valley just below Petrelë castle, is also one
of Europe’s longest, at 1250 metres long. Zippers can
expect to reach speeds of up to 100km/hr, depend-
ing on weight and wind, zipping over trees, farms
and across the river. Visitors can optionally park at the
lower station to be brought up to the take-off platform
by van. It’s a good idea to book ahead in summer and
on weekends. The zipline is easy to combine with a
visit to the castle and the Fustanella farm restaurant
further down the road.QPetrelë, tel. +355 67 400 44
44. Open 10:00-19:00. 1800 lek per ride, second ride
1200 lek.
The first in Albania!
The longest in the Balkans!
Among top 10 in Europe!
zipline.albania@gmail.com
24 Tirana In Your Pocket
Kaplan Pasha’s Tomb (Tyrbe e Kapllan
Pashait)
Dating from 1817, this eight-columned tomb celebrates
Kaplan Pasha, a former Ottoman ruler of the city. Originally
part of a larger mosque complex that was destroyed dur-
ing WWII, the monument sat neglected and full of rub-
bish for decades until it was incorporated into the mod-
ern building that now graciously shields it at one corner.
Grave-robbers beware, the tomb contains neither treasure
nor the remains of Kaplan Pasha, who was later dug up
and reburied in Istanbul.QF‑5, Rr. 28 Nëntori.
Mahmud Agha Kokonozi Mosque
Sometimes referred to as the New Bazaar Mosque (Xha-
mia e Pazarit të Ri), this fine Ottoman-era building dates
from the middle of the 18th century and is one of a very
few of its kind to survive the atheist campaign that started
in the late 1960s. Used as a food and tobacco store during
the Hoxha period, the mosque reopened in 1991 with a
reconstructed minaret - one of only a handful in the region
to feature two balconies.QE‑5, Rr. Shemsi Haka, Pazari i
Ri.
Serai of Selim Pasha Toptani
The grand wooden Toptani family house is one of the few
traditional Ottoman houses belonging to feudal lords
(serai) to survive in Tirana. Built from 1833-1840, it is still

looking rather lovely. The restaurant here unfortunately
closed years ago and nothing has happened since, mean-
ing you’ll have to peek at the exterior from over the fence,
with no way to view the small hamamxhik baths, and the
carved wooden ceilings on the first floor.QF‑5, Rr. Abdi
Toptani 7.
Tanners’ Bridge (Ura e Tabakëve)
This small but elegant triple-arched Ottoman stone foot-
bridge once served as the main connection between
Tirana and the highlands to the east. It was used to get
agricultural produce and livestock across the Lana River to
the markets, and sits in the traditional area of skinners and
leather workers - hence the name. The Lana was rerouted
in the 1930s and the bridge was neglected. It’s now re-
stored to its former glory and is proudly used by the locals
again.QF‑6, Rr. George W. Bush. Admission free.
Tekke of Dervish Hatixhe (Teqeja Dervish
Hatixhe)
Dedicated to the female Bektashi saint Dervish Hatixhe
(1798-?), Tirana’s own Florence Nightingale who nursed
people through a cholera epidemic. After her death, a
tekke was founded near her grave. It miraculously sur-
vived the Hoxha regime and is still visited by people of
different faiths, especially women. A corridor leads past
a soot-blackened candle room to where the graves of
Hatixhe, members of her family and a former servant
can all be seen.QC‑4, Rr. Dervish Hatixhe nr. 8, www.
dervishhatixhe.com. Admission free.
Tirana Castle (Kalaja e Tiranës)
The foundations that have been incorporated into the
pedestrian street are all that remains of Tirana’s original
castle, a military stronghold dating from some time be-
tween the 4th and 6th centuries, though there’s also a
stretch of defensive wall further along the street that
dates back to Ottoman times. The Toptani family from
Kruja took possession of the castle around 1800, leading to
decades of conflict that was only settled by intermarrying
the warring families, after which Tirana started growing.
The brand new, bazaar-like Kalaja e Tiranës street inside
the complex is lined by upmarket restaurants and shops.
QF‑5, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 69 685 47 05, www.
kalajaetiranes.com.
Vila Sali Shijaku (Shtepia e Sali Shijakut)
Said by some to be the oldest house in the Balkans, this
magnificent example of a traditional Ottoman-era konak
is at least 300 years old and has over the centuries served
as a military building, a hospital and even a women’s
prison. Now owned by the Albanian artist Sali Shijaku
(1933) and surrounded by a beautiful garden, the villa op-
erates as a café and gallery containing a large collection
of Impressionist and Socialist Realist paintings.QB‑5, Rr.
Vildan Luarasi, tel. +355 4 226 14 58. Open 08:00-21:00.
Admission 200 lek.
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
The Bunk’Art 2 museum entrance
Cathartic Tirana
For almost 50 years the Albanians were at war with them-
selves, believing (or at least pretending to believe) they
were fighting to defend a Socialist paradise. The reality, as
everyone knows, is somewhat different. Unlike for example
the three Baltic States of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, oc-
cupied by Soviet Russia for a similar amount of time, the
story of Communism in Albania is a strictly internal one,
and it’s only recently that any effort has been made to con-
front the recent past. Several examples, which also provide
visitors a chance to experience some well-managed Dark
Tourism, have emerged in Tirana.
Bunk’Art 1
This huge underground nuclear bunker built in the 1970s
for Albania’s political and military elite has been trans-
formed into a combined museum and art space. Some
40 of the total 100-plus rooms on five sprawling levels
contain exhibitions about the bunker’s history, offering
the first serious attempt to openly confront and openly
discuss the country’s silent past. The bunker entrance is
reached through a long tunnel, the Porcelan city bus
stops nearby.QRr. Fadil Deliu, tel. +355 67 207 29 05,
www.bunkart.al. Open 09:00-17:00. Admission 300-
500 lek.
Bunk’Art 2
The second nuclear bunker to open to the public as a mu-
seum, this was finished in 1986 and lies behind the for-
mer Ministry of Internal Affairs in the city centre. Entered
through a shattered bunker decorated with the photos
of victims, the exhibition in the 24 rooms along cramped
corridors focus on history of the Albanian police, security
forces, the labour camps and the terror spread by the Sig-
urimi secret police. The highlight of the complex is the
lonely, wood-panelled private room of the minister.QF‑4,
Rr. Abdi Toptani, tel. +355 67 207 29 05, www.bunkart.
al/2. Open 09:00-18:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00-19:00. Ad-
mission 500 lek.
2022 25
 Sightseeing
House of Leaves (Shtepia e Gjetheve)
This genuine house of horrors opposite the Orthodox
Cathedral functioned as the national headquarters of the
Gestapo during the Nazi occupation of 1943-1944 before
falling into the hands of the Sigurimi, Albania’s Commu-
nist-era version of the KGB, who used it as both a listening
post and place of torture. The House of Leaves, named
after the foliage then covering the facade, was opened as
a museum of secret surveillance in 2017, focusing on the
persecution of and psychological violence waged against
Albanian citizens, and the ways the Sigurimi sought to
control people’s bodies and minds. In 9 sections with
names like “bugs and other creatures” or “Daily life under
surveillance”, all manners of spy gadgets, photos and doc-
uments are on display, accompanied by witnesses’ chilling
tales.QF‑4, Rr.Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, tel. +355 4 222
26 12/+355 69 967 61 16, www.muzeugjethi.gov.al.
Open 09:00-16:00; Sun 10:00-15:00; closed Mon. Ad-
mission 700 lek.
Postblloku (Checkpoint)
Part of Albania’s ongoing attempts to un-erase certain
aspects of its uncomfortable recent past and come to
terms with its violent Communist-era history, Postblloku
(Checkpoint), or the ‘Memorial to Communist Isolation’,
commemorates the country’s political prisoners who
suffered under the Hoxha regime. Co-created by the for-
mer dissident Fatos Lubonja and the artist Ardian Isufi,
the monument is made up of three elements: one of the
small concrete defensive bunkers that continue to litter
the country, some concrete supports from the mine at the
notorious Spaç forced labour camp where thousands of
political prisoners suffered between 1968 and 1990, and a
brightly painted section of the Berlin Wall from Potsdamer
Platz that once split that city in half.QH‑4, Blv. Dëshmorët
e Kombit.
Parks & Gardens
Botanical Gardens (Kopshti Botanik)
Part of Tirana University’s Faculty of Natural Sciences, Ti-
rana’s Botanical Gardens is a pleasant, 15-hectare oasis
on the western slopes of the city. Founded in 1971, the
gardens house some 1,400 species of plants, representing
about a third of Albania’s abundance of flora. Bring a picnic
to enjoy the meadows and lanes of palm trees. If the gate
isn’t open, wave and smile at one of the gardeners.QRr.
Selita e Vjeter,, tel. +355 4 222 52 87. Open 08:00-14:00;
closed Sat, Sun. Admission 50 lek.
Grand Park (Parku i Madh)
A short stroll south of central Tirana, the city’s Grand Park
offers a convenient respite away from all the traffic and
dust. At one time, thousands of the city’s inhabitants came
here to play and picnic. Now it’s a place for people to stroll,
fish, swim and have a sneaky snooze after lunch. Among
the park’s small collection of monuments are the tombs of
the Frashëri brothers, who helped catalyse Albania’s na-
tional awakening towards the end of the 19th century. Ab-
26 Tirana In Your Pocket
dyl (1839-1892) was the leader of the Prizren League, Sami
(1850-1904) a radical agitator for an independent Albanian
republic and Naim (1846-1900) is generally recognised as
being the first major Albanian-language poet. The large
artificial lake in the park is a popular place during the sum-
mer, and is ringed by a handful of restaurants.QJ‑5.
Zoological Gardens (Kopshti Zoologjik)
Established in 1966, Tirana’s zoo was for years too depress-
ing to write about, but now is undergoing much-needed
renovations. The conditions for the animals have been
much improved, with 2 bears (Roki and Smoki), wolves,
llamas, ostriches, antelopes, buffaloes, eagles, hawks, and
rabbits inhabiting the enclosures. On weekends, visitors
can use the four-wheeled pedalon bikes for free.
Walk under the bridge at the western end of the Grand
Park dam to find the entrance.QRr. Haxhi Brari, www.
aprtirana.al/parqe-rekreative/parku-zoologjik. Open
08:00-18:30. Admission 100 lek.
Cemeteries
Grand Park Memorial Cemetery (Var-
rezat e Memorialit Tek Parku i Madhe)
According to the latest statistics, 53 British troops, most
of them intelligence agents, lost their lives in Albania dur-
ing WWII. This small cemetery features the graves of 46
of them, and was established by the Commonwealth War
Graves Commission only in 1995, their sacrifice being long
suppressed from the historical Albanian narrative. There’s
an official ceremony here every year on May 8. Nearby the
graves stands a red stone memorial to the servicemen -
this was originally the stone on top of Enver Hoxha’s grave
in the National Martyrs’ Cemetery, and you can still see the
holes that once held a plaque etched with Hoxha’s name
in gold letters. To find it, walk south to the end of Rr. Ib-
rahim Rugova and enter the park taking the path uphill
that branches to the left and keep looking left as you reach
the top of the hill.QK‑6, www.aprtirana.al.
National Martyrs’ Cemetery (Varrezat e
Dëshmorëve)
The final resting place of some 900 Albanian partisans who
gave their lives fighting to free Albania from fascist and
Nazi occupation during WWII dates from 1972. Its literal
and figurative crowning glory is Kristaq Rama’s impressive,
12m-high white statue of Mother Albania watching over
the city in her windswept concrete gown. Dictator Enver
Hoxha used to be buried at her feet until he fell from grace
in 1991 and was moved to the city’s municipal cemetery
the following year. In an interesting recent political move,
Hoxha’s former resting place has been occupied with the
remains of Azem Hajdari, the student leader behind the
fight against the regime in the late 1980s who was assassi-
nated in Tirana in 1998. The view of the city spread out be-
low and mountains surrounding it is worth the visit alone.
QK‑6, Rr. e Elbasanit, www.aprtirana.al.

SYMBOL key
P Air-conditioning A Credit cards accepted
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
E Live music G Non-smoking
B Outside seating
Alongside a highly recommended collection of restaurants
serving traditional Albanian cuisine, Tirana continues to
add dining options to its repertoire, including more and
more places serving ‘health food’ and those returning to
their Albanian farming roots. With a few upmarket excep-
tions, dining here remains an affordable extravagance that
can be enjoyed outdoors for much of the year. Eating out in
Tirana has never been this good.
Albanian
Albanian cuisine offers a unique fusion of predominantly
Balkan, Mediterranean and Turkish flavours with an em-
phasis on grilled meat, fresh vegetables, exotic desserts and
individual portions that could keep an entire army march-
ing on its stomach for a week. Restaurants serving Albanian
food range from cheap and cheerful establishments com-
plete with grubby tablecloths to places where you’re very
likely to bump into the rich and famous.
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Where to Eat
Communist-era memorabilia at Radio Bar
Era Restaurants
Established in 1999 and hugely popular ever since, the
Era restaurants serve the best of Albanian traditional
dishes with only the finest cuts and ingredients. The
menu evolves every few years and features outstanding
traditional recipes, fresh salads, tasty desserts and pleasant
wines. The professionalism is enhanced by the staff, many
of whom have been working here for over a decade. Era
Villa resembles a secret garden in the heart of the busy
city, while Era Blloku is cozy and comfortable, located on
Rr. Ismail Qemali in one of the most vibrant districts of
Tirana.QH/I‑5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, 11, tel. +355 4 225
50 00, www.era.al. Open 11:00-24:00. €€. A­P­T­B­
2022 27
 Where to Eat
Ballkoni Dajtit
A rather lovely, Alpine-style wooden restaurant next to
the cable car station with some excellent views of Tirana,
this recommended place features a choice of several din-
ing rooms of which the enclosed balcony offers the best
views. Ballkoni Dajtit serves mostly Albanian cuisine, such
as fergesë me speca (a dish with eggs and cheese), oven
dishes, and, during the season, wild boar and rabbit.Qtel.
+355 67 401 1021, www.dajtiekspres.com/facilities/
restaurant-ballkoni-dajtit. Open 09:00-22:00; closed Tue.
€€. A­P­T­B­L­
Bujtina Jone
What would you think if someone told you of a restaurant
with ‘Albanian-style yum cha dining’? Ignore the extensive
menu, and hand-pick local meze from a cart of ready-to-
go dishes that’s wheeled to your table. Each one costs 150
lek, and each one is worth at least triple that. Whilst the su-
per-acidic house white wine is not recommended, virtually
everything else is, so let the good times roll as you enjoy the
views from the far side of the lake, and the beautiful garden
scenery of this villa restaurant.QRr. Memo Bejko, tel. +355
67 205 29 86. Open 07:00-23:00. €€. A­P­B­E­
Illuminatum
Nuance between venue name and that of the conspirato-
rial secret society “The Illuminati” does not go unnoticed,
especially after laying eyes on this elaborate, full-blown
folly of a castle just 10 minutes drive south-east of the city.
The outward appearance is only the start of the fairy-tale.
Traditional Albanian fare whipped up by the kitchen staff
and laid out before you by impeccably-dressed servers
will make you feel like genuine royalty. Meanwhile, prices
seem outrageously low for the overall experience.QUra
e Peshkatarit, Petrele, tel. +355 69 208 88 22, www.
iluminatum-residence.business.site. Open 12:00-24:00.
€€€. A­PTBL­
Oda
A truly traditional restaurant, where you can eat sitting at low
tables in a reconstructed oda (guest room) in an old Otto-
man-era house. Surrounded by shelves with dishes, strings
of garlic and peppers and old photographs, it’s best to allow
the waiters to suggest a succession of appetisers and mains.
The food is fresh and delicious (try the lakror në saç oven-
baked pie), unforgettable even after washing it all down
with several glasses of their home-made raki. They recently
opened a lovely little garden terrace as well. Find it down
a tiny alley on the north side of the road near Sheshi Avni
Rushtemi.QE‑5, Rr. Luigj Gurakuqi, tel. +355 69 966 88 81.
Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. €. N­P­B­
Vila 31
A definite contender for Tirana’s most charming restaurant
and also very hard to to find, Villa 31 really is marvellous,
with an immaculately kept garden and gorgeous dining
halls, one of which features a wall full of shelves stuffed with
model submarines. Another room has a big open cooking
place. The staff are friendly and helpful, and the exten-
28 Tirana In Your Pocket
O, djali!
You’ll need to grab attention and let your waiter know if
you need something - anything from a menu to paying
the bill. Albanians just aren’t in a rush, so don’t hesitate to
calmly yell out O, djali! (for men) or O, vajza! (for women) as
you wave your arm to let them know you require service.
sive menu has something for everyone. From Rr. Kavajës
walk down Rr. Naim Frashëri and look for the sign down
the fourth alley on your right.QE‑2, Rr. Thoma Kacorri 2,
tel. +355 69 321 23 96, www.vila31.business.site. Open
07:00-24:00. €€. A­P­B­
Zafferano
The number one lunch spot for locals and expats in the Ko-
muna e Parisit district, tucked away near the Kika 2 Complex.
This small, family-run business is one of the best-kept secrets
of the neighbourhood. Depending on your mood, choose
either from the revolving daily menu or go for a customiz-
able pasta or risotto. Definitely try the tave dheu, a casse-
role of beef, curds, tomatoes and peppers baked in a clay-
pot - the ultimate Albanian comfort food. QJ‑2, Rr. Haxhi
Kika, tel. +355 69 587 25 06, www.zafferanorestaurant.
business.site. Open 09:00-23:00. €€€. P­B­
Farm to table
See also our Slow Food feature on p.37.
Ceren Ismet Shehu
“Katunar and Proud!” read the aprons of the staff here, de-
claring their love for simple village life and turning a some-
what derogatory term into one of endearment. This Tirana
institution is best known for its incredible farm-raised
meats. Also found along the road up Dajti mountain, enjoy
a tasting plate of local appetisers before digging your teeth
into spit-roasted goat or lamb for an authentic Albanian cu-
linary experience.QF‑5, Shëtitorja Murat Toptani, Kalaja e
Tiranes, tel. +355 69 386 66 65, www.ceren-ismet-shehu.
business.site. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. A­P­B­
Ferma 100
A large, modern pavillion of a restaurant overlooking the
valley where the owner farms some of the ingredients used
in the kitchen. Ferma 100 serves top-quality Albanian dishes
and has a display full of fantastic steaks to choose from.
The size of their car park and the kids’ playground serves
as a good warning that you should book ahead at week-
ends.QB-22 road, Vishaj, tel. +355 69 900 90 90, www.
ferma100.com/sq. Open 09:00-23:00. €€€. A­PTB­
L­
Fustanella
The most authentic organic farm restaurant we visited
around Tirana, Fustanella is named after the traditional
white kilt worn by men in these regions and sits on a hill-
 Where to Eat
side amid its vegetable and potato fields - where you’re
welcome to wander around. Once seated in the elegant
dining room with fabulous valley views, you feast on fresh
farm bread, delicious small meze plates and seasonal meat
courses, while the farm cats hunt for scraps. Home-made
wine, raki, jam and oils for sale too.QPetrelë, tel. +.355
69 448 40 00, www.fustanella-farm.business.site. Open
12:30-22:30; Sat, Sun 09:00-23:00. €€€. A­B­E

Gzona Behind the museum at Piazza

Located in the Castle of Tirana, this is the first restaurant in
Tirana to truly modernise traditional Albanian food con-
cepts. Head chef Bleri Dervishi may be young, but after im- price guide
migrating with his family to Italy he began cooking at just
11 years old. His slow food of the modern day includes quail As an indication of cost, in each review we’ve listed the av-
with juniper berries, and fish ragout with hazelnuts and erage price of a main course dish, without drinks.
mountain herbs. The awards received by this restaurant are
a testament to its success.QF‑5, Rr. Murat Toptani, Kalaja € Under 500 lek €€€ Over 1,000 lek
e Tiranes, tel. +355 68 807 06 05, www.gzona.al. Open
12:30-23:00. €€€. A­P­B­ €€ 500 - 1,000 lek

Mrizi i Zanave
One of the best farm-to-table options in Tirana, the food
pouring out of the kitchen in this place near the Tanners’
menu decoder
Bridge never disappoints. Overseen by Avni, unquestion- This should help you figure out what just slipped down
ably one of the finest chefs in the country, Mrizi i Zanave your throat.
specialises in classic local dishes with some modern twists. Meat & Fish
Relatively quiet during the week, this restaurant explodes
on weekend evenings when large families come to forget beef - biftek codfish - merluc
about their waistlines and dance the night away to live tradi- chicken - pulë fish - peshk
tional Albanian music. Not to be confused with their restau- lamb - mish qengji prawns - karkaleca deti
rant in northern Albania.QF‑5, Bulevardi Zhan D’Ark, tel.
pork - derr salmon - salmon
+355 67 691 6596, www.mrizi-i-zanave.business.site.
Open 11:00-23:00. €€. A­P­G­E­ sausage - sallam sea food - fruta deti
veal - mish viçi sole - gjuhës
Mullixhiu bass - levrek trout - troftë
By now Albania’s most famous restaurant abroad, Mullixhiu,
‘the miller’, is where celebrity chef Bledar Kola brings coun-
try dining to the 21st century. Using the best locally-sourced Fruits & Vegetables
ingredients, the menu offers an imaginative journey around apple - mollë mushrooms - kërpudha
traditional Albanian cuisine with lots of fancy flourishes.
The rather modest, wood-panelled room doesn’t seat too banana - banane orange - portokalle
many guests, so book ahead online. Find Mullixhiu hidden cabbage - lakër peppers - speca
in the basement of a block in the park at the southern end carrot - karrota tomatoes - domate
of Rruga Sami Frashëri. QK‑4, Shëtitorja Lasgush Porad-
eggplant - patëllxhane
eci, Grand Park, tel. +355 69 666 04 44, www.mullixhiu.
al. Open 12:00-22:00. Lunch Service 12:00-16:00 / Dinner
Service 18:00-22:00. €€€. A­P­B­ Drinks
beer - birrë wine - verë
Nano Resort
Nano Resort is a sprawling farm and traditional restaurant juice - leng water - ujë
with gorgeous green views, a good 15km southeast of the Common dishes
city. The no-thrills ‘bio food’ food on offer is genuinely au-
thentic and packed with the kinds of flavours that simply Byrek - pie with cheese, meat or herbs
don’t need any fancy touches. The popularity of the place Patate të skuqura - french fries
means that the large dining rooms can easily get packed at Tavë kosi - baked lamb, yogurt and eggs
weekends, so book in advance.QDaias, Petrelë, tel. +355 Fërgesë - fried minced lamb or liver, feta cheese and garlic
67 203 01 93, www.nanoresort.al. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. Speca të mbushur - stuffed peppers, feta cheese, herbs
A­P­T­U­B­6­
tirana.inyourpocket.com 2022 29
 Where to Eat
American
Duff
Offering a little taste of America in Albania, long-time
favoured expat haunt Duff (as in the beer drunk in The
Simpsons) dishes up some of the tastiest burgers in
town alongside favourites such as Philly cheesesteak.
Punters can enjoy an intense match of beer pong as
they watch American football, baseball or European and
local soccer matches. A second location, Duff Arena, can
be found at the national stadium. Reservations are def-
initely required for both locations on big game nights.
QH‑3, Rr. Brigada VIII, tel. +355 69 314 4661, www.
duff-sports-bar.business.site. Open 07:00-02:00. €€.
A­P GE­
Asian
In the late 1950s, when Stalin’s regime was denounced, Al-
bania turned to the Chinese for strict moral guidance, until
they too were considered too bourgeois. However, it took
several decades for a proper Chinese restaurant to open in
Tirana. The Asian eateries present now are not quite au-
thentic, but do the trick if you need a filling meal.
Kung Fu Express
A popular buffet-style restaurant with a large open kitchen
and even larger pictures of Bruce Lee all over the place,
Kung Fu Express serves food that’s ready to eat as well as
food you have to wait for. We can recommend chicken
chow mein, spring rolls and ‘prawn crisps’. The larger por-
tions on offer can easily feed two.QE‑4, Rr. Ismail Qemali,
tel. +355 67 522 5555, www.kungfu-al.com. Open
11:30-23:00. €€. P­­
Mimi Thai Chinese
The cornucopia of Chinese and other Asian cuisines they
bash together in their woks at Mimi’s wouldn’t be out of
place in any half-way respectable Beijing suburb. There’s
friendly service as you’d expect from Tirana, plus a full
range of chicken, pork, noodle and beef standards: sea-
food specialities include calamari and shrimp.QI‑5, Rr.
Dervish Hima, tel. +355 69 219 91 01. Open 12:00-23:00.
€€. P­B­
Enver Hosha’s digs in the Blloku
30 Tirana In Your Pocket
Speak Shqip: Table talk
Welcome! - Mirëseerdhët!
What do you recommend? - Çfarë rekomandoni?
I would like... - do të preferoja...
May I have a... - a mund të kem një...
... spoon - lugë
... fork - pirun
... knife - thikë
… please - ...ju lutem.
The bill please - Faturën ju lutem
Thank you - Faleminderit
Oriental City
A small, family-run business with a large menu of mostly
Chinese dishes, Oriental City serves all the classics in
suitably Asian-looking surroundings. Plenty of vegetar-
ian options. There’s a tiny little seating area if you prefer
devouring your noodles al fresco.QH‑5, Rr. Themistokli
Germenji, tel. +355 42 28 88 88, www.oriental-city-
chinese-restaurant.business.site. Open 12:00-22:00.
€€- €€€. A­P­G­B­
Burgers
DeliBros
Great ‘artisan’ burgers in a modest restaurant with a small
terrace. With nine burger varieties, our Smashburger was
served fast, hot and delicious, and the Chuck Norris burger
and pastrami sandwich didn’t look half bad either.QH‑3,
Rr. Komuna e Parisit 19, tel. +355 67 754 44 44, www.
delibrosfood.com. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri 13:00-23:00. €.
A­P­B­
Likos Burger
Whilst most Albanian burger joints fill their buns with a
qofte replica of a burger patty, Likos’ lush, full-meat patties
are a welcome surprise. Found in two of the most up and
coming areas of Tirana, Likos also offers all the usual fast
food, with the chicken gyros also a menu highlight. Also
on Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha.QG‑1, Rr. Kavajes, tel. +355 69
338 22 23, www.likosburger.com. Open 10:00-2:00. €€.
P­B­
Fine dining
Heat by Calme
French fine dining at its best. With a refined interior, a
small terrace and excellent service, book a table here for
fantastic and beautifully presented dishes by a chef who
previously worked in a three-starred Parisian restaurant.
Try the foie gras or escargots starter, a duck or red mul-
let main course, and a chocolate cigar for dessert.QH‑4,
Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 67 409 99 59, www.heat.al.
Open 08:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€€. P­B­

Karlsberg
This classy hotel restaurant is deservedly popular with the for-
eign crowd. Brick arches surround the diners, while some of
the country’s best chefs ensure a quality meal is served time
and time again from am impressive menu of Albanian and
international cuisine. During the summer, head for the open-
air rooftop restaurant, a dazzlingly white classicist pleasure
garden complete with fountains and amazing views.QI‑4, Rr.
Ibrahim Rugova, Xheko Imperial Hotel, tel. +355 68 202 97
77. Open 07:00-24:00. €€€. A­P­G­E­
Otium
A firm and seasoned favourite, cosy little Otium churns
out plate after plate of fabulous-looking food, thrown
together from fresh ingredients bought by the chef ev-
ery morning. There’s no menu; the waiters will suggest a
meal suited to your taste. Featuring large salads and a lot
of well-prepared meat including excellent burgers, Otium
is Tirana’s fine dining gem.QH‑3, Rr. Brigada e VIII, tel.
+355 4 222 3570, www.otium-restaurant.com. Open
12:00-23:00; closed Sun. $$$. A­P­G­
Salt
Much talked about by the Tirana in-crowd, Salt is an up-
market place set in a two-storey designer space hidden
between the Blloku blocks. The pricey dishes served
here include sushi, Mediterranean meals and seafood -
all washed down with good wines and cocktails.QH‑4,
Rr.Pjeter Bogdani, tel. +355 69 400 00 13, www.salt.
al. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00:23:00. €€€.
A­P­B­
Indian
Chakra Indian Fusion
Firmly established in the Millennium cinema compound
and featuring Indian chefs working away in the kitchen,
you know this is the real deal just from the smell of spice
that hits you when you enter the classy dark interior. The
menu is packed with classic dishes from fresh pakora to a
proper vindaloo, some unusual inventions like the Indian
burger, plus a big selection for vegetarians. The dessert
menu is tiny to say the least, although there are a hand-
ful of lassis. Their sister restaurant Chakra Jonë on Rruga
Tish Dahia in the Komuna e Parisit district is just as wor-
thy of a visit.QJ‑2, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 67 200 52
22, www.chakrarestaurant.al. Open 12:00-22:00. €€.
A­P­G­
International
À la Santé
Flavours, aromas and colours congregate on your plate
at this popular Mediterranean restaurant - but not for too
long as everything they serve is delicious. From risotto,
ravioli and beef to fantastic desserts. Hidden down the
small street behind the Baronesha shop, just south of Rr.
Bogdani.QH‑3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4 562 87 80.
Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00.
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Where to Eat
Ceni’s
Ceni’s serves wonderfully fresh and original Italian and
other regional food in a small basement not far from
Grand Park. The owner is also a butcher, and his cuts of
meat are some of the best in Tirana. With a changing daily
menu you’re never quite sure what’s going to end up
on your plate but if it helps, we recommend sticking to
the pasta with additional meat for non-vegetarians. The
business lunch offer is extremely good value for money.
QK‑4, Rr. Sami Frashëri 4, tel. +355 67 406 61 66, www.
cenisrestaurante.com. Open 12:30-22:30; closed Sun.
€€. N­X­
City Lounge
In the back corner of the Kika 2 Complex, City Lounge is
a huge venue with a menu to match its size. Wood-fired
pizzas, pastas, risottos, burgers and the excellent cold
or hot antipasto platters are all highlights of the menu.
The value is incredible and service is quick, friendly and
more personable than most in the city. The large outdoor
space for kids to run around makes it a family favourite,
too.QJ‑2, Rr. Tish Dahia, tel. +355 69 833 11 11. €-€€.
A­P ­B­
E Jona
A bustling restaurant set back from the street, E Jone (‘our
place’) offers everything from humus and risotto to lamb
chops. A popular place for quick and affordable business
lunches during the week, find the changing specials listed
on the blackboard. There’s a quiet garden terrace as well.
QH‑4, Rr. Brigada VIII 7, tel. +355 69 251 5333. Open
08:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€. A­P­
Fresh Garden
Slow service is to be expected all across Albania and Tirana
is no exception - however Fresh Garden is. Attached to the
organic supermarket below, this restaurant truly under-
stands the idea of a business lunch, in that it can spit out
courses in succession with a speed appropriate for those
in the hastiest of a rush. For those eaters with social media
following their every bite, the dishes are picture perfect
too.QH‑3/4, Rr. Brigada VIII 4, tel. +355 67 402 07 77,
www.fresh-garden.al/daily-menu.html. Open 08:00-
24:00. €€. P­B­L
Kosherja
Be greeted by a cute courtyard with a Parisian vibe before
entering the grand dining area and you’ll understand that
the atmosphere here is as multicultural as the menu. Fla-
vours from across the globe are featured, from Thailand to
Mexico, Albania to Argentina. Enjoy a range of tapas dishes
or dig into a full platter of Argentine meats. The courtyard
at Kosherja, meaning beehive, is a wonderful place to soak
up some summer sunshine whilst enjoying a drink. QG‑5,
Rr. Jul Variboba, tel. +355 69 206 00 99. Open 09:00-
11:30. €€. A­P­T­U­B­
2022 31
 Where to Eat
brunch
Bufe
Many places in Tirana claim to host brunch, but few
actually deliver on the promise. Bufe was one of the
first to embrace the magic of the mid-morning meal
and, as such, offers all the typical classics for breakfast
or brunch that will have your eyes looking like the
love-heart-eyed emoji. In the afternoon and evening,
mix and match your favourite appetisers, be they from
sea or earth, or dig into their pasta dishes.QF‑4, Rr.
Reshit Çollaku, tel. +355 69 318 11 49. Open 08:30-
24:00. €€. A­P­B­
Löwengrube
A small corner of Bavaria at the southern end of the na-
tional stadium, the ‘Lion’s Den’ Bierstube has a franchise
feel to it but serves authentic Späzle noodles, meaty Ger-
man specialities like Bratwurst or grillplatters, together
with excellent draft Löwenbräu and Franziskaner beers.
Prosit.QI‑5, Sheshi Italia 1, tel. +355 4 450 50 05, www.
lowengrube.al. Open 08:00-24:00. €€€. A­P­B­
MIA Bistro
Contemporary with a courtyard terrace, this bistro is as
cool as it is casual. The menu takes inspiration from around
the globe (brunch and sushi are standouts here) and cock-
tails are world-class. MIA is the kind of place you can sit
for hours as you watch the world go by. The crowd tends
to be on the younger side and there’s a definite “too cool
for school” vibe in the afternoons. Weekend nights the DJ
really gets into it, spitting out soft electro tunes.QH‑4, Rr.
Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 69 906 66 66. Open 07:00-24:00.
€€. A­P­U­B­E­
Millennium Garden
Tirana’s best garden terrace, beside the Millennium cin-
ema and removed from traffic, is dominated by lush
greenery,  garden fragrances and birdsong - when the
music’s not too loud. The bar and restaurant promises
a “journey through taste, drinks and sound” and has an
eclectic and somewhat pricey menu featuring everything
from breakfast and brunch classics to burgers, pizza, poke
bowls, sushi and Indian food.QF‑5, Shëtitorja Murat
Toptani, tel. +355 69 472 5106. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€.
A­P­B­
Piano Bar Piazza
After all these years Piazza remains a good spot to dine
on well-prepared Italian dishes including some fine efforts
made with their home-made pasta. The very best thing
about the place is the lush terrace, set among blooming
flower beds and palm trees behind the National Museum,
away from the traffic.QE‑4, Rr. Ded Gjo Luli, Sheshi Harry
Truman, tel. +355 42 23 07 06, www.piazza.com.al.
Open 12:00-24:00. €€. A­P­T­U­B­
32 Tirana In Your Pocket
Souvenirs at the Pazari i Ri market
Terracotta
Passionate for Mediterranean food, the chefs here don’t
follow a menu but rather create dishes from whatever
is fresh that day, served with home-made pasta and de-
licious salads. The tiny restaurant with a few seats by
the kitchen and the rest downstairs can get busy.QH‑2,
Rr. Komuna e Parisit, tel. +355 68 306 99 90, www.
terracotta-restorant.business.site. Open 12:00-23:00;
closed Sun. €€. A­P­G­S­
The Goat
A bustling, bright restaurant on the busiest stretch of
the Blloku, this ‘gastro pub’ has everything from slap-up
breakfasts, salads and burgers to tenderloin with Minne-
sota sauce... and draft beers and cocktails, of course. Every-
thing except goat, come to think of it.QH‑4, Rr. Ibrahim
Rugova, tel. +355 69 600 46 28, www.thegoat.al. Open
07:00-24:00. €€. A­P­B­
The Home
A stylish restaurant with exposed brickwork, serving beau-
tifully presented international dishes, ranging from Mediter-
ranean classics and burgers to Mexican weekend brunches.
Don’t miss their petulla donuts. Set back from the street, the
first-floor tables overlook the market, mosque and moun-
tains.QE‑5, Rr. Shenasi Dishnica 1, Pazar i Ri, tel. +355 68
207 19 89. Open 08:00-11:30. €€. P­B­
Italian
Artigiano
Artigiano and its sister restaurant Villa Artigiano (set be-
hind a lovely leafy garden on Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II) both
offer high-quality Italian dishes. You can expect treats
prepared from their home-made pasta, cracking pizza
baked in a proper wood-fired oven, gourmet burgers and
seasonal salads - all served with a smile.QI‑4, Rr. Abdyl
Frashëri, tel. +355 69 20 92 358, www.artigiano.al.
Open 11:00-24:00. €€. A­P­T­B­

Fraterie
What lies behind the doors of this restaurant are dishes so
good that they made us cry tears of joy. The chef is most
proud of his meat offerings, however it’s the pasta that is
the true star here - definitely the best in Tirana, created
with such love and care that one could argue it’s better
than in Italy, and at a fraction of the price. Wine lovers will
not be disappointed by the house choices here, either.
QJ‑2, Rr. Bilal Golemi 2, tel. +355 674010403. Open
12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-16:00. €€. A­
Gastro Organic
Humble is the best description for this eatery found in
the student district, but those in the know are fully aware
that this is one of the best pasta restaurants around. The
owner is well-versed in true Italian pasta preparation and
passionate about his work. Catering to students, prices
are more than reasonable. The Mosaic of Tirana is nearby
- though still closed at time of writing.QE‑2, Rr. Frederik
Shiroka, tel. +355 69 263 75 75, www.gastro-organic.
business.site. Open 11:30-24:00. €€. A­P­B­L­
Green House
A 1930s villa with a quiet courtyard hidden behind high
hedges seems the perfect place to indulge in some Italian
food accompanied by a good selection of wines. The out-
side seating area has a tropical feel to it, while inside it’s
all minimalist chic with delicate spotlighting.QG‑5, Rr. Jul
Varibova 6, tel. +355 69 205 7599, www.greenhouse.al.
Open 12:00-22:30. €€€. A­P­B­
Juvenilja Castelo
A little folly of a castle surrounded by lush greenery is as
close as you can get to Camelot at a stone’s throw from
the national stadium. Juvenilja has been dishing up pizza,
pasta, risotto and Italian mains here since 2001, with some
excellent desserts to wrap up the evening, or your after-
noon. There’s another Juvenilja on Rr. Sami Frashëri in the
Blloku.QJ‑6, Rr. Skerdilajd Llagami, tel. +355 422 666 66.
Open 12:00-11:00. A­P­B­
L’Osteria
If you happen by L’Osteria, you too will be sucked in by the
cuteness of its curbside appeal. It won’t stop at the street,
either - the overture continues as you go inside, the ador-
able table decor seemingly straight out of a magazine.
Then the food comes and it’s absolutely delectable - if
you’re unaccompanied you might be inclined to join an
app just to enjoy a first encounter in what can only be de-
scribed as the perfect first-date location.QE‑3, Rr. Mihal
Duri 7, tel. +355 69 877 11 89, www.losteriarestaurant.
business.site. Open 11:30-23:00. €€. A­P­B
Panevino
A firm business dinner favourite next to the Maritim Plaza
Hotel, expect a classy interior with an open kitchen, all of
your favourite Italian dishes and a few surprises such as
their awesome cheeseburger. The outside seating is a little
way from the chaos in the street and provides some much
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Where to Eat
food delivery apps
Albania hasn’t quite stepped into the technological
world in the way that other countries have in regards to
apps, but one area where you’ll find a few contenders
is with food deliveries. The oldest and the biggest is
Baboon - this cash-on-delivery service has the largest
selection of restaurants to order from. Foodini is a
contender for the most convenient, as you can pay
directly by card through the app and order your food
for a future delivery time. Others include SnapFood
(best if you’re in the city centre) and newer entrants to
the market Orderoo, Turboo and ToGo.
needed shade during the heat of the summer.QF‑5, Rr. 28
Nentori, tel. +355 4 22 55 512, www.panevino.al. Open
07:30-23:30. €€€. A­P­B­
Pastaria
Fast pasta served in a restaurant with a strikingly simple
philosophy: serve as many varieties of sauces with a choice
of pastas at low prices to attract a happy crowd of young
Albanians. There’s so much choice that they categories
sauces by colour. With speedy and friendly service we
were out in a flash, feeling very content. Also on Rr. Mus-
tafa Matohiti and Rr. Urani Pano 9.QI‑3, Rr. Sami Frashëri,
tel. +355 69 379 43 43, www.pastaria.al. Open 11:00-
23:00. €. A­P­B­S­
Kosovan
Restaurant Gjakova
Named after the Kosovar city, Gjakova is a meat-lovers
haven. Always buzzing with locals and foreigners and run
by a team of friendly staff from Kosovo serving absolutely
magnificent grilled meat dishes from the region, their
ability to go off-menu for those living a plant-based life
or with other dietary requirements make it a favourite. The
menu here is like a short novel. On a budget? Meatballs,
side and an ice-cold Peja beer will satisfy your tastebuds
and wallet. Want to splurge? Beef florentine or tomahawk
provide a salivating steak experience. Their fasule beans
are the best in town, too.QI‑2, Rr. Emin Duraku, tel. +355
69 255 71 95, www.gjakovadelivery.al. Open 09:00-
24:00. €. P­T­B­
Middle Eastern
Arabesque
Middle-Eastern food is the latest culinary trend to hit Tirana,
with the standout being this central restaurant serving deli-
cious Syrian specialities. With limited tables, it can get busy
here at lunchtimes. Besides the baba ganoush smoked egg-
plant appetiser, falafel, hummus and kibbeh fried meatballs,
don’t miss the kunafa dessert - a sinful concoction of stringy
hot cheese and syrup.QE‑3, Rr. Kavajes, tel. +355 67 203
17 33. Open 11:00-23:00. €€. A­B­
2022 33
 Where to Eat
Pizza
Because it’s everywhere, locating good pizza in Tirana is like
finding a needle in a haystack. The combination of proper
flour, fresh ingredients and real pizza ovens in Tirana guar-
antees that the pizzas are often just as good as those across
the Adriatic.
Golosa
Golosa means ‘gluttonous’ in Italian and you’re sure to
feel that way with your fix of genuine wood-fired pizza.
Follow the smell permeating through the shopping centre
and enjoy the casual and relaxed vibe, and be prepared
to roll out with a full belly because you won’t be able to
stop ordering.QD‑4, Rr. e Barrikadave, Galeria shopping
centre, tel. +355 69 618 58 00, www.ringtravel.al. Open
11:00-23:00. €€.
Grande Roma
A contender for some of the top pizza in Tirana, Grande
Roma dishes up all your Italian favourites in a cosy envi-
ronment across all seasons. The ham, truffle and cream
cheese is elegantly sumptuous, whilst their risottos are
dainty but filling and flavourful. With a typical trat-
toria vibe, the atmosphere is casual yet comfortable
and their delivery service is fast and reliable. It can be
busy at peak traffic times.QH‑5, Rr. Themistokli Gër-
menji, tel. +355 68 871 11 17. Open 10:00-24:00. €€.
A­P ­B­
34 Tirana In Your Pocket
Laguna
There’s always a queue for the great-value and tasty pizza
slices and ice cream served from this small kiosk at the main
crossroads in town. You should be in it too.QG‑4, Blv. Bajram
Curri, tel. +355 69 391 00 04. Open 11:00-24:00. €. N­W
Pavarotti
When an Italian tells you that a particular place has the
best  Neapolitan pizza in town, you tend to listen. Pavarot-
ti’s menu is jam-packed with both traditional and modern
wood-fired pizzas and calzones, alongside a few salads. They
also have the best children’s play area with attendants and
even cameras to ensure that, no matter where you sit, you’ll
be able to keep an eye out. Also offering high chairs for the
little ones, this is a particular family favourite for Tirana.QRr.
Shyqyri Brari, tel. +355 4 430 11 11, www.pavarottipizzeria.
com. Open 07:30-23:50. €€. P­B­L­
Proper Pizza
Hugely popular with the 20-something crowd, this place
isn’t called Proper Pizza for nothing. Choose from a baf-
fling array of pizzas from the traditional to the more imag-
inative, some of them creatively decorated with strange
crop-circle patterns, and all of them perfect for snacking
on the premises or eating elsewhere.QI‑3, Rr. Gjin Bue
Shpata, tel. +355 69 777 88 88, www.properpizza.al.
Open 10:00-24:00. €€. P­
Qofta
Known more widely as kofta in other parts of the world, the
Albanian qofta is a simple, sausage-like dish made from
ground beef that’s cooked on an open flame and served
with a wide variety of salads, sauces and fresh white bread.
Popular with the more working class residents of Tirana,
qofta restaurants are hard to find in the city centre. They
often appear on your table in a matter of minutes, making
them an excellent snack when on the run.
Zgara Korçare Liqeni
This is our personal favourite qofta meatballs place in the
capital, near the lake. As well as their magnificent Korça-
style qofta served with tzatziki and hot bread, this basic but
brilliant restaurant cooks a variety of other meat dishes with
accompanying cold Korça beer and soft drinks. The wooden
tables outside provide a great place to watch the madness
of the city below. Their other Zgara can be found on Rr. Luigj
Gurakuqi, near the Pazar i Ri market.QE‑5, Rr. Sami Frashëri,
tel. +355 69 353 28 03. Open 11:00-24:00. €€. P­T­B­
kids’ play areas
An interesting phenomenon in Tirana is the existence of
child play areas in bars, restaurants and cafés. Ranging
in size, these can be found all across town, both indoors
and out. So don’t be alarmed if you hear Albanian kids
say they’re having their birthday party at a bar - they’re
having innocent fun, not belly button shots.

Drink ujë, not aqua
Order mineral water with your meal, and chances are
that you’ll get sparkling water in a glass bottle that was
shipped from Italy, France or even further away – usu-
ally at a high price for both the environment and your
wallet. All this while Albania has excellent and abund-
ant mineral water, and many good brands such as Sel-
ita and Glina. Join the revolution and ask your waiter for
a local brand instead of imported mineral water, so that
restaurants realise we patrons want to have the choice.
The Albanian economy needs all the support it can get,
and this helps in a small, bubbly way.
Seafood
Barely 30 minutes from the Adriatic, it shouldn’t come as a
great surprise to learn that Tirana features some truly outstand-
ing seafood restaurants. Find a few scattered around the city
and a tight huddle of them stretched along bvd. Gjergj Fishta
between Rr. Ibrahim Rugova and Rr. Sami Frashëri.
Deti Jon
Deti Jon (Ionian Sea) is a simple affair with a fisherman’s
cabin feel. In the time-honoured seaside tradition, it’s possi-
ble to choose exactly what you’d like before they cook it, so
whatever catch is on the menu, it’s  guaranteed to be fresh
and delicious.QI‑4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 8, tel. +355 69 203 20
15. Open 11:30-23:00. €€€. A­P­G­
Fishop
At Fishop you’re welcomed by a fantastic display of to-
day’s catch, laid out on a bed of ice, so it’s simply a mat-
ter of pointing out your choice and asking what the chefs
recommend to do with it. Be sure to book ahead, as both
Fishop outlets on this street are often packed. For fast fish,
visit their excellent fish burger joint at the Pazar i Ri market.
QH‑6, Rr. Qemal Guranjaku, tel. +355 4 560 90 64. Open
10:00-23:30. €€€. A­P­
La Cloche
Seafood is ubiquitous in Tirana, but few places serve it up
with the level of artistic flair as this newcomer to the culinary
scene. Although the dining area is somewhat clinical in its
decor and lighting, the food will make it all worthwhile. The
chef is born-and-raised Italian residing in Tirana, aiming to
introduce more modern Italian flavours. A quick chat with
him and you’ll understand everything is created with love
and enthusiasm.QE‑3, Rr. e Bogdanëve 52, tel. +355 69
573 57 39. Open 12:30-22:00. €€€. A­P­
La Vita è Bella
By most accounts one of the best seafood restaurants in the
capital due to an uncompromising combination of good
service, good food and good value for money. Set in a lovely
white villa with a spacious garden, the menu here is fairly
diverse, and it’s worth asking for advice as to what’s hot
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Where to Eat
before plunging in.QH‑5, Rr. Jul Variboba 21, tel. +355 69
407 44 49, www.lavitaebella.al. Open 12:00-24:00. $$$.
A­P­G­B­
Lenti’s Fish
Seafood is best enjoyed with a water view, though with Ti-
rana being set inland you might be willing to settle for less.
No need! Lenti’s Fish, overlooking the Dry Lake (which is not
dry at all), offers beautiful scenery and dishes up the best
fish cakes in town. Their selection of fresh seafood is amaz-
ing - they even have scallops. A bit out of town, the bus to
the TEG mall runs nearby, and it’s well worth the trek. QRr.
Hamdi Garunja, Liqeni Thate, tel. +355 68 539 83 70.
Open 12:00-11:00. €€. A­P­B­
Pireu Fish
An upmarket seafood restaurant in a striking designer build-
ing covered with foliage, and with a pleasant, spacious inte-
rior. The catch of the day is displayed by the door, though
the menu has other delicacies such as seafood pasta, shell-
fish and lobster.QH‑6, Rr. Qemal Guranjaku 12, tel. +355
68 404 05 06. Open 12:00-23:30. €€. A­P­B­
Steak
El Gaucho
Some venues offer Argentinian meats, but there is only one
that is truly dedicated to the cuisine. Instantly becoming a
hit favourite amongst the expat crowd, this is a pricey al-
ternative to the Albanian zgares that are ubiquitous around
town. The degustation menu is surprisingly good value with
empanadas and steaks being the highlights. We were disap-
pointed by their pastas, which looked and tasted like what
you slop together with leftovers when feeling lazy.QH‑2,
Rr. Mustafa Qosja, tel. +355 69 609 88 88. Open 11:00-
24:00. €€. A­P­B­S­
Mangiafuoco
There are a few steakhouses dotted around town, with most
highlighting their tomahawk or beef florentine, but for eye
fillet lovers there’s one star that shines brighter than the
others. At Mangiafuoco you are spoilt for choice on sauces
and steak accompaniments. The use of herbs and spices
here make even a normally boring grilled chicken fillet extra
delicious. Enjoy dining whilst seated in lush and plush din-
ing chairs and the kind of service you’d expect for the price.
QH‑4, Rr. Pjeter Bogdani, tel. +355 69 642 20 36. Open
11:00-24:00. €€€. A­P­B­
Pagus
There are so many other things on the menu at Pagus apart
from the excellent Black Angus steak that it could also just
about equally qualify as a full Italian restaurant. Smack bang in
the centre of the action, if you don’t particularly like steak, the
burgers here are pretty special and the pasta dishes also come
highly recommended. Grown ups with children might like to
know that they can slice and throw a steak inside a sandwich
if the kids are particularly fussy.QI‑4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel.
+355 69 203 04 09. Open 12:00-24:30. €€. A­P­B­
2022 35
 Where to Eat
Sushi
SoSushi
SoSushi has been around since before sushi became a
trend in Tirana. Intimate in size and located below ground
level, you’ll need to be on the lookout - but once inside be
transported into a tranquil bamboo paradise. Enjoy Japa-
nese delicacies such as sushi, sashimi and tempura with-
out the need to offer any arms or legs as payment. Delivery
is available to literally wherever you are, be it home, at a
bar or even a park.QH‑3, Rr. Brigada e VIII, tel. +355 67
413 25 82. Open 12:00-23:30; closed Mon. €€€.
Vila Yamato
With an entrance between minimalist curving concrete
walls that would not be out of place in Tokyo, Vila Yamato
is a spacious sushi restaurant with both atmosphere and
good taste, though the prices are above average and ser-
vice can be slow. The menu is impressive though with all
the regular options and desserts like matcha cheesecake.
Yamato is also found wrapping things in rice on Rruga Ib-
rahim Rugova.QG‑5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II 13, tel. +355 69
400 40 01. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. A­P­B­
Tex-Mex
Serendipity
There’s nothing serendipitous about Serendipity at all,
with the finger food to the full-blown Mexican dishes
being about as authentic as they can when you con-
sider this is Tirana and not Tijuana. With a very relaxed
vibe, this is the kind of restaurant you may drop in to for
a snack at dinner time, but end up falling into bed six
hours later full of tequila and burritos.  QI‑4, Rr. Ibrahim
Rugova 26/1, tel. +355 68 902 8029. Open 09:00-24:00.
€€€. A­P ­X ­U­
Serendiville
A villa near the Dinamo sports fields has been converted
into a Tex-Mex ranch, with small tables crammed with
happy chicas and chicos inside, and a large terrace. The
menu is massive - try the taco loco dish with beef, or the
top-notch fajitas served on a sizzling plate. The enormous
frozen margaritas are excellent thirst-quenchers. Service
can be slow as they do get busy, but it’s always with a smile.
QK‑2, Rr. Liman Kaba 30, tel. +355 68 609 33 33, www.
serendiville.business.site. Open 11:30-23:30. €€. P­B­
Turkish
Lezet
“Same same, but different” is a phrase that every well-sea-
soned traveller knows and also  perfectly describes each
Balkan country’s take on regional cuisine. You could be
easily tricked into believing that Albanian and Turkish food
are the same. Simply compare İçli Köfte with qofte and
know there’s a difference. Interestingly, the same can be
said about the languages - lezet in Albanian means plea-
surable, whereas lezzet in Turkish means flavour. Pure ge-
nius!QF‑5, Rr. Murat Toptani, Kalaja e Tiranes, tel. +355
69 529 65 97. Open 07:30-24:00. €. A­P­B­
Sofra Turke
An oasis of calm in an otherwise chaotic street, this slightly
upmarket restaurant specialises in original kuzhina turke
as opposed to the Albanian-tinged look-alike food avail-
able in most restaurants in Tirana. Complete with pictures
of old Istanbul and plenty of carpets on the walls, the staff
speak enough English to take diners through the menu.
Surplus to the cavalcade of delicious grilled meat options
is a range of classic sticky Turkish baklava desserts.QF‑2,
Rr. Kavajës 170, tel. +355 4 2 22 68 18, www.sofraturke.
wordpress.com. Open 08:00-23:00. €€. A­P­B­
Vegetarian
See also our ‘healthy food’ café reviews.
Veggies
The best vegetarian and vegan option in town, Veggies
has an extensive menu of veg sushi, ramen, portobello
burger, salad bowls, fresh juices, smoothies, desserts and
more. There’s a nice terrace too.QI‑4, Rr. Nikolla Tupe 15,
tel. +355 69 207 77 26, www.veggiestirana.com. Open
08:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€. A­P­B­

Spaghetti Western
Getting your fix of Tex-Mex food is surprisingly easy in Ti-
rana with a number of options, but the best value and se-
lection is found at Spaghetti Western. Tacos are only about
250 lek, as are draft beers. Other menu highlights include
American favourites like burgers, chicken fried steak and
BBQ pork ribs. The saloon style decor is very on theme and
the waitstaff are dressed to match the style, cowboy hats
and all.QH‑4, Rr. Pjeter Bogdani 13, tel. +355 68 207 20
00, www.spaghettiwestern.business.site. Open 12:00- Kaplan Pasha’s Tomb
22:45. €€€. A­P­B­
36 Tirana In Your Pocket
 Feature, feature, feature
Farm to Table
Agrotourism and the Albanian food revolution
Have you ever wondered what life was like just a hundred
odd years ago, before mass industry farming was a thing?
When people headed out to the fields to source their food,
rather than huge supermarkets? Back to the times when
people milked the cow and churned the butter, and every
step of the process was conducted with the utmost love,
care and respect for the sustenance the food provided.
Nowadays many yearn for this ‘olden-time’ experience,
but not everywhere has this way of life fallen outside the
norm.
Dotted far and wide across every corner of the country,
Albanian families are turning their household farms into
the perfect place for tourists to unwind and experience a
slower pace of life, one almost forgotten by those who live
the daily grind in the big cities. The phenomenon dubbed
‘agrotourism’ is certainly a major highlight of any trip to
the Land of the Eagle.
During the reign of communist dictator Enver Hoxha,
an emphasis was placed on the state’s self-sufficiency.
A rather paranoid man, as evident from the ubiquitous
bunkers, Hoxha had a strong desire to ensure that his
people relied on no others than their own. This meant es-
tablishing adequate food supplies and, as such, significant
focus was placed on farming throughout this govern-
ment’s reign - although the goal was never achieved and
food was rationed due to its scarcity.
With more than half the country currently employed in the
agricultural sector, it is clear that this industry still plays a
key role in the modern day. Its luscious lands, superfluous
sunshine and rigorous rainfall all contribute to creating the
perfect farming conditions.
Having progressed just thirty years from this time and
moving into the modern day, Albania finds itself in an
interesting and unusual position. The majority of its
villagers know only farming and opportunities for young
people outside the sector simply don’t exist in rural areas.
Populations began to dwindle and many farmers were fed
up with conditions. Gratefully, a solution has been found
in the form of tourism and, thanks to many years of hard
work and dedication, Albania is rapidly cementing itself
as the prime location to experience traditional, slow food
direct from farm to table in an authentic village setting.
Seeing the success of the Slow Food Movement across
the world, many Albanian entrepreneurs understood
the opportunities that these small, family owned and
operated farmhouses could provide. What the world was
calling a ‘movement’ was simply a lifestyle for the local
people and one that, in the name of besa, the Albanian
people are more than happy to share. It’s important to
note that most of these agrotourism venues are also these
families’ homes!
Following significant lobbying, the government finally got
on board and began the “100 Villages” project. Agricultural
students from Tirana’s universities were sent to help rural
farmers understand the current import/export market,
thus ensuring that they planted the right crops to guaran-
tee profit. Students were also tasked with helping farmers
understand the numerous government grants available
and how to apply online to receive them. However, the
biggest element to this project was the marketing and
promotion of 100 small villages across Albania that were
perfect locations to highlight agrotourism, thus creating a
secondary industry separate from simple farming that may
appeal to the younger populations.
One doesn’t need to travel too far to see the goat roasting
on the spit, the organic homemade cheeses for sale or
smell the fli (Albanian flatbread) roasting over the fire, as
many agroturism venues surround the capital city of Tir-
ana. Although, should you find yourself wandering about
the country, you’ll notice these farm-to-table offerings are
everywhere, each one unique in its offerings. For some of
the best recommendations around the country, check out
page 28. Certainly visiting one of these agrotourism is a
must-do for any trip to Albania! Ju bëftë mirë!
By Alexandra Lewis
For more information on agrotourism in Albania, down-
load the AgroTimeAL app which lists dozens of rural farms,
guesthouses and tour options, complete with photos,
interactive maps and contact details.
2022 37
 Cafés
Coffee in a wedding cake
Tirana’s café scene is bigger and better than it ever was be-
fore. Just remember to be very precise to specify you want
coffee in your cappuccino.
Book cafés
Epër7shme
This combined second-hand book and café is an excellent
find. Best bring your own book and walk past the curious
selection of Albanian-langauge titles to find a gorgeous
sheltered garden around the back which is the best place
to sit and soak up the atmosphere and caffeine. They
stopped serving hot meals unfortunately - drinks only for
the moment.QG‑5, Rr. Jul Variboba 1, tel. +355 69 687
3284. Open 07:00-23:00. €. A­P­B­
Music Books Eatery
Set in a small cul-de-sac and boasting a huge outdoor ter-
race area, during the day Music Books Eatery is the perfect
place to wander in and find a quiet spot to read, study or
work. At night, things get a bit rowdier with a range of
events including art exhibitions, jazz concerts and even
sip-and-paint nights. A particular favourite with the expat
crowd, every so often you’ll catch a meet-up here on a
Friday night. QRr. Ilo Mitkë Qafzezi 2, tel. +355 69 373
70 08, www.musicbookseatery.com. Open 08:00-23:00;
Sun 09:00-23:00. €€. P­B­
price guide
For cafes that serve food, we’re indicated the aver-
age price of a main course dish, without drinks.
€ Under 500 lek €€€ Over 1,000 lek
€€ 500 - 1,000 lek
38 Tirana In Your Pocket
Classic cafés
Ardi Bakery
Anyone walking around the Komuna e Parisit neighbour-
hood would be hard pressed not to notice the name ‘Ardi’
in numerous locations; Ardi Bakery, Ardi Cafe, Ardi Fac-
tory. What started as a simple bread shop is now a cult
favourite in the area. The first in Tirana to modernise the
simple sandwich, here you can break away from typical
fillings and enjoy a honey mustard chicken or tuna salad
baguette, or simply enjoy a perfectly roasted coffee.QJ‑2,
Rr. Tish Dahia 10. Open 08:00-22:00.
Bardhë e Zi
Something of a Tirana institution, the inappropriately
named Bardhë e Zi (Black and White) is anything but lacking
in colour. Located along one of the busiest streets in the bl-
loku, the mostly 20-something crowd that choose to spend
time here are a friendly bunch indeed. Serving great coffee
alongside a range of other drinks and snacks, the modern
interior is a good place to escape the madness outside, or,
if you prefer to imbibe your caffeine in a less peaceful envi-
ronment, the terrace is a fine location to indulge in a little
urban anthropology.QH‑3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4
222 5547. Open 24hrs. €€. A­P­B­
Café Botanica
Lush green foliage fills the interior and terrace of this buzz-
ing bistro café below the arches of the Palace of Culture.
Arrive early for a relaxed breakfast or lunch as you people-
watch the pedestrians on the main square, drop by later in
the day for a wide range of dinner options, cocktails and
perhaps a DJ-driven party.QSheshi Skënderbej, tel. +355
69 463 80 00. Open 07:00-24:00. €. A­P­X­B­E­
Coffee-Lab
The only cafe in Tirana to roast their own coffee - and
these coffee-lovers do it well and are happy to explain
the process to visitors. The large space with a wall of win-
dows is infused with the smell of roasting, and offers cakes
and pastries besides the coffee and hot drinks.QI‑4, Rr.
Nikolla Tupe, tel. +44 75771 96870. Open 07:30-23:00.
N­P­T­
Kevin
Straddling that old Tirana chestnut between café and bar,
Kevin’s wood-panelled interior is a bit too much for some,
although it’s the best place in the area around the Otto-
man-era Tanners’ Bridge and has a great outdoor terrace. If
you drop by during the evening be prepared for the occa-
sional event, which could be anything from a poetry read-
ing to a relaxed performance of classical music.QF‑5/6, Rr.
George W. Bush, tel. +355 68 202 2505, www.kevin-bar.
business.site. Open 07:00-23:00. P­X­B­
Kitchen Bar
With impeccable views of the lake, you can easily waste a
few hours in the sunshine here, people and duck watch-
ing whilst you sip on your coffee, beer or wine and pound

down a pizza. Bike racks and a play area make this a
great option for families, and it’s still peaceful enough
to function as a quiet spot to work online. Inside find a
makeshift Tirana museum, with old photos of the city
and a shrine dedicated to KF Tirona, the local klubi i
futbollit.QUnaze e Re, Liqeni Artificial, tel. +355 67
459 1346, www.kitchenbar.al. Open 08:00-1:00AM.
€. N­P ­B­
Kometa Café & More
Whether you’re in the mood for a coffee, cocktail, or
can’t satisfy your hunger, Kometa’s got you covered.
It’s no wonder this place has established itself as the
neighbourhood ‘go-to’ spot for the Komuna e Parisit
district. Staff appreciate their customers here with atten-
tive service and the kind of energy many tourists would
expect. The plants on the walls and ceiling give you a
greater sense of the latter in the term ‘concrete jungle’.
QRr. Skender Luarasi 2, tel. +355 69 881 71 59, www.
kometa-cafeandmore.business.site. Open 07:00-
23:00. €. P­B ­E­
Komiteti Kafe Muzeum
Popular with wide-eyed tourists, Komiteti combines a café
with a museum of bits and bobs from decades past - and
manages to pull it off very nicely indeed. Set in the shadow
of the Galeria ETC mall, the distinction between a place for
a quick cup of coffee and an evening of heavy drinking
is so blurred that it’s impossible to define what it is - be-
yond the fact that if you’re in town you really should drop
by.QG‑5, Rr.Gjon Pali II, tel. +355 67 691 35 52. Open
7:00-24:00. €€. P­B­
La Porteña
A haven of excellent coffee, snacks and great service,
La Porteña (a term referring to someone from Buenos
Aires) is run by an Albanian-Argentinian couple who
left the cruise industry to start their dream café. Hang
out on the terrace or retreat to the mezzanine floor for
some quiet time with your drink and a slice of banana
bread or coconut tart with dulce de leche. Peckish cus-
tomers should try the hearty Argentinian empanadas
with corn and cheese or beef. Find it hidden in the side
street.QH‑5, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji, tel. +355 67 740
06 69. Open 07:00-21:30; Sat 08:00-21:00; Sun 08:00-
15:00. €. N­P ­U ­B­
LaVeen
Attracting much of the Blloku’s professional crowd, you’ll
find this unassuming cafe and restaurant busy morning,
noon and night. Enjoy some of the best-brewed coffee
in town whilst observing the locals busy with meetings
and business deals - brush shoulders with top entrepre-
neurs, journalists and maybe even a politician or two. The
menu features classic cafe favourites and a wide range of
cocktails, from classics to specialities. At night, bring your
friends and enjoy cocktail pitchers at a great price.QRr. Is-
mail Qemali, tel. +355 69 647 2713. Open 07:00-23:45.
€€.
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Cafés
Speak Shqip: café talk
May I have a... - A mund të kem një...
espresso - kafe ekspres
espresso with milk - makiato
turkish coffee - kafe turke
cappuccino - kapucino me kafe
filter coffee - Americano
tea - caj
sugar - sheker
spoon - luge
cigarettes - cigare
matches - shkrepse
ashtray - tavell
Quo Vadis
Great location, dangerous espresso. Quo Vadis has staying
power, a quality not to be underestimated in a world where
cafés come and go in the blink of an eye. Frequented by a
mostly young crowd who don’t seem at all bothered about
such things as needing a job.QH‑4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 25,
tel. +355 4 226 65 90. Open 07:30-00:30. A­P­B­
Stephen Center Café
Opened in 1994 by evangelical missionaries who certainly
know how to run a good café, this is one of Tirana’s best,
a cosmopolitan meeting place for locals and foreigners
alike, seving a wide variety of international cuisine. There’s
a pleasant terrace to gorge on bottomless coffee, freshly
squeezed orange juice and eggs benedict for breakfast
while you watch the police endlessly remove badly parked
cars from the traffic circle.QE‑5/6, Rr. Hoxha Tahsim 1,
tel. +355 4 223 47 48, www.stephencenter.com. Open
07:30-23:00; closed Sun. €. A­P­G­T­B­
Tea Room
Like a calm little corner of England in Albania, the Tea
Room is a cosy café decorated with flowery patterns and
with windows overlooking the Lana river. You can try
various tea leaf and herbal infusions - try the delicious Al-
banian ironwort mountain tea, caj mali - as well as good
local wines and sweet cakes.QG‑3, Blv. Gjergj Fishta, tel.
+355 68 404 70 27. Open 07:00-22:30. €. G­B­
Urban Roots
With vast amounts of space indoors and out, it’s no won-
der that Urban Roots is a well-known event space, hosting
trivia nights and expat meetups amongst other things.
During the day it’s more of a hotspot for the local high-
school students and young professionals - they also offer
private meeting rooms for those requiring office space. At
night attracts a younger expat crowd. Munch on a sand-
wich or pizza to satisfy your urban hunger.QI/J‑4, Rr.
Lidhja e Prizrenit 3, tel. +355 69 461 08 18. Open 07:30-
23:30. P­B­E­
2022 39
 Cafés
COFFEE, BUT WITH COFFEE
Famous for its café culture, Tirana is one of the best
cities in Europe for roasted bean lovers. Locals enjoy
sitting for three hours after placing only one initial
order - usually a kafe (shot of espresso) or makiato
(espresso with a dash of milk). Those looking for filtered
coffee will find themselves out of luck, but can order
an ‘Americano’ for the closest local substitute. If you’re
a cappuccino lover, beware! You must specify that
you want it with coffee - kapucino me kafe - otherwise
expect to receive a rather odd-tasting cinnamon-
flavoured, powder-based drink (kapucino me bustine)
usually consumed by children.
Coffee shops
Le Bon
Sprinkled around several locations in town, the Le Bon
bakery and pastry shops bring modern European café
style to Tirana. Inside, there’s a real bustling, cosmopoli-
tan vibe, and the sandwiches and pastries are some of
the tastiest in town. Le Bon also manufactures stunning
cakes, from cartoon-themed creations for the kids to Jack
Daniels-laced confectionary for the adults - all available
from their online shop as well. The café on Rruga Boçari by
the lake is the perfect place to stock up your picnic basket.
QRr. Dritan Hoxha, tel. +355 672 00 06 70, www.lebon.
al. Open 06:30-22:30. €. A­P­G­T­B­
Mon Chéri
Speciality coffees, hot cocoa, smoothies, cakes snacks and
much more, in an chain of coffee shops dotted all over the
city. The busy outlet on Sheshi Wilson square has a take-
away window supplying coffee around the clock for the
truly desperate.QI‑3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 68 203
09 55, www.moncheri.al. Open 07:00-22:30. €.
Mulliri i Vjetër
Impossible to miss, Mulliri cafes can be found all over
Tirana, with 18 shops now offering a spot to relax with a
book, get some work done, or meet friends while enjoying
a speciality coffee, cookie or light meal. At this strategic
Blloku street corner, Mulliri Gourmet is the flagship shop,
with the largest selection of food and drinks. Their pleas-
ant large terrace is an important fixture on the Blloku see-
and-be-seen circuit.QH‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355
69 706 63 70, www.mullirivjeter.al. Open 09:00-23:00.
€€. A­P­B­
Sophie Caffe
Another popular chain of coffee shops with cosy corners
to enjoy a drink, sandwich, pasta dish, cookie or cake.
In summer, head to their their  Bohemian Sophie Palasë
cafe in Palase, on the southern coast.QH‑5, Rr. Papa Gjon
Pali II, tel. +355 69 701 47 88, www.sophiecaffe.com.
Open 07:00-23:00. €. A­P­B­
40 Tirana In Your Pocket
Healthy food cafés
Fit Food
Overlooking busy Sheshi Wilson square, this tiny shop
has various freshly pressed juice combinations on offer,
as well as healthy snack or meal options.QI‑3, Rr. Abdyl
Frashëri 21, tel. +355 68 559 61 61. Open 07:00-21:00;
closed Sun. €€. A­P­
Happy Belly
A few steps down from the street, the tiny Happy Belly
is an easily missed yet unmissable café serving fresh
vegetarian and vegan juices, smoothies and Saturday
brunches - all gorgeously presented by the friendly
hostess from behind a market stand full of fruit and veg.
QH‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 69 54 50 082.
Open 08:30-20:30. €€.
MIA Organic Café
Hidden at the rear of a charming organic food supermar-
ket - great for local, healthy souvenirs - the Organic Café
offers a buffet-style lunch with various vegetarian and
other choices to point at, naturally made with organic
ingredients. There’s good fruit juice, smoothies and cof-
fee too.QH‑3, Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 69 707 59 54,
www.mia.al. Open 08:00-21:00. €. A­P ­G­
Exchange rates: €1=121 lek, $1=115 lek
lunch
NYT Bagels
This small New York-style deli specialises in fresh-
ly-made bagels that are as good as you’re going
to get in this part of the world. They come with
a choice of bread, toppings and fillings such as
cream cheese and salmon, customised as you wish
and assembled before you eyes. There’s coffee and 
a few other snacks as well, plus a tiny little outside
seating area. Find it in the side street halfway up
Rr.  Gërmenji.QH‑5/6, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji,
tel. +355 69 540 75 83. Open 07:30-19:00. €.
P­B­
The Place
A stylish little cafe hidden down the side of the Kika
2 complex, closing early but offering a truly excel-
lent and nicely presented 800 lek lunch, which in-
cludes soup, salad and main course. Beyond lunch,
there’s good coffee, cakes and other nibbles for in-
side or on the small terrace.QJ‑2, Rr. Tish Dahia 10,
Kompleksi Kika 2, tel. +355 68 204 00 82. Open
09:00-17:00; Sat 08:00-16:00; closed Sun. €€.
N­P ­B­
 Cafés
event café
Destil Creative Hub
A completely unique concept in Tirana, for creative
types there is no other place like Destil (named after
the 1920s Dutch art movement, De Stijl). Providing
exhibition space for up-and-coming artists, musicians,
photographers and even historians wanting to present
their topic in an interesting way, the events held here
are widely varied. One of the few true LGBTQ+ ven-
ues in town, it is also the only cafe with a dedicated
co-working space. The coffee and cocktails taste good
too!QBlv. Zogu I, tel. +355 69 756 5237, www.destil.
al. Open 07:00-23:00. €. P­B­
Sweet cafés
Cake shops, pâtisseries and other cafés that cater to your
sweet tooth.
Big Scoop
Ice cream from Kosovo? Why not - this chain of brightly
lit cafés was founded in Pristina by some experienced re-
turnees from London, and is expanding across the Balkans
with its delicious ice cream, waffles, crepes, brownies, pan-
cakes and more - all laden with sweet toppings. Thank-
fully, there are a few savoury options too. Conveniently set
near the lake, but also scooping at the Delijorgji complex
along Bulevardi Gjergj Fishta.QK‑4, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel.
+383 49 805 530, www.bigscoop.menu. Open 07:00-
23:00. €€. P­B­
Cioccolatitaliani
Modern, bright and always busy, Cioccolatitaliani’s menu
stretches well beyond crêpes, with a veritable smorgas-
bord of tooth-destroying treats on offer, among them
waffles and many concoctions with chocolate.QH/1‑4,
Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 4 431 9591, www.
cioccolatitaliani.it. Open 07:00-24:00. €€. A­P­
D’Angelo
Another Blloku favourite, this place offers the usual roll call of
inventive coffee concoctions plus a range of frozen yoghurts,
bubble tea, smoothies and freshly squeezed fruit juices which
all taste great during the summer meltdown period. To
compliment the caffeine, D’Angelo also dabbles in desserts,
among them an irresistible and not expensive chocolate
fondue for sharing with friends. Also in four other Tirana lo-
cations.QRr. Abdyl Frashëri, tel. +355 69 97 79 669, www.
dangelo.al. Open 08:00-24:00. €. A­P­B­
DuDonuts
Whilst Albania has petulla, which are more savoury, there’s
only one place in town that offers real donuts as dessert.
Some offerings are mouth-watering, such as the Oreo Mo-
ment or Dulce de Leche - others such as peach and pome-
granate sound wonderful, but we think seeds atop a do-
42 Tirana In Your Pocket
nut are simply not practical. Originating from the Blloku,
DuDonuts has also opened in the TEG mall and Sarande,
and it seems reasonable to assume this will be Albania’s
Krispy Kreme in no time.QRr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 69
700 88 22. Open 07:00-21:00. €. P­
Ege Bakllava
Albanians certainly are not known for their sweet tooth,
so whilst there are usually three or four Italian desserts
on restaurant menus, the selection can get boring after a
while. Bakllava is a dessert of cultural significance across
the Balkans and the best place to try this sweet-but-
savoury sugary treat is at Ege. A large variety of different
flavours is available, as well as other pastry treats, but we
think the pistacchio simply is the best.QRr. Kavajes, tel.
+355 69 696 97 36, www.egebakllava.al. Open 09:00-
21:00. €€€. P­G
Pâtisserie Française
Opened way back in 1999 by Marie-Thérèse Marchal and
an exceedingly popular place, there are many reasons to
visit this tiny corner of France, perhaps the most important
being the authenticity of the baked goods on sale - there’s
nothing to beat the baguettes on offer here. Choose to
take everything away in a bag to much on later or relax
inside with a decent cup of coffee and something sweet
and sticky.QG‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova 1, tel. +355 68 53
57 678, www.patisseriefrancaise.al. Open 09:00-22:00.
€€. A­P­
balkan books: Free
A truly enchanting
memoir of a young
girl witnessing the last
gasp of Communism
in Albania, and the
freshly freed country’s
first wobbly steps into a
capitalist future. Lea Ypi
was raised in a family
with ‘a biography’ or
political background,
and they needed to
speak in code to prevent
her inadvertently raising
suspicion outside the
home. Ypi descibers her careless pioneer years and
her disillusionment with the ideology that promised
so much to Albania’s children, yet disappeared so fast,
only to be replaced with a chaotic and sometimes
dangerous new world. You’ll never look at a Coke can
the same way after reading this fascinating book.
Free: Coming of Age at the End of History, by Lea
Ypi, 2021, Penguin www.penguin.co.uk. Available at
Adrion International Books in Tirana.

Tirana street art
Despite the closure of clubs and many bars due to the pan-
demic, Tirana’s nightlife is back on track this summer, of-
fering an awful lot of variety within easy walking distance.
For many, the fun still starts with the lively and traditional
xhiro (mass evening stroll), and ends more often than not
somewhere in the bustling Blloku area in the early hours of
the morning. Tirana has seen a gradual adoption of hipster
culture in recent years, and their taste for quality and craft
beers is a welcome addition to a scene that for long has
been dominated by the botoxed-up Fashion TV crowd with
their sweet pink drinks. Note that Albanians still prefer sip-
ping coffee to serious drinking, with foreigners often being
the only ones knocking back the hard stuff.
Bars
Charl’s Bistro
An eclectic and fashionable 30-something crowd pop-
ulates this fantastic lounge bar specialising in Western
hits from the ‘60s to the ‘80s. The somewhat oddly spelt
venue has admirably been going for almost two decades,
hosting live music acts as well as party events on weekend
evenings, and Latin dancing on Wednesdays. The cocktail
bar in the lush small garden spits out great drinks all week,
plus there’s a good menu of food available to soak up the
excess alcohol.QH‑4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani 36, tel. +355 69
831 65 84, www.charlsbistro.al. Open 07:30-04:00AM;
Sat 08:00-03:00. €€. N­P­G­B­E­
Cheers Irish Pub
Pandering to every popular culture stereotype imagin-
able, this perfectly adequate place to drink and be merry
features an admirable stockade of German beer behind
the bar, burgers and other pub food on the menu, and is
more often than not overflowing with customers during
the evening. The stage at the back regularly hosts DJs and
live music - on our recent visit a Pink Floyd cover band try-
ing to remember when they were young.QH‑3, Rr. Pjetër
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
SYMBOL key
P Air-conditioning A Credit cards accepted
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
E Live music G Non-smoking
B Outside seating
Bogdani 39/1, tel. +355 67 203 60 11. Open 07:00-02:00.
A­P­G­B­E­
Hemingway
Operating along the lines of a Hemingway-Cuba theme
but throwing in a lot of other cultural references along
the way, find chairs and suitcases stuck to the walls and
a crowd of drinkers frequenting this bar just northwest of
the city centre. Friday evenings herald a weekly live mu-
sic event which tends to attract big crowds. Hemingway
also organises the amazing 1920s-themed Jazz train trip
to Shkodra around April 30, with much dressing up and
dancing.QE‑3, Rr. Kont Urani 2, tel. +355 69 208 81 21,
www.hemingway.al. Open 05:00-1:00; Fri 06:00-1:00;
Sat 07:00-1:00; closed Sun. G­B­E­
Illyrian Saloon
A favoured location for the rocker crowd in Tirana, you’ll
often find live music at weekends featuring somewhat fa-
mous local acts, with no cover charge. Cheap drinks are
the aim of the game here and there is a sense of camara-
derie amongst patrons, as long as you fit the vibe. Set be-
low street level, the saloon atmosphere is certainly evident
from the wooden features, flowing whiskeys and of course
the Wild Wild West-style doors, made for a dramatic en-
trance.QI‑4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 69 211 6800.
Open 16:00-2:00. A­P­B­E­
2022 43
 Nightlife
stranger danger
As friendly as Albanians are, it’s best not to approach
people whilst in bars or restaurants. Mingling in public
with strangers is generally frowned upon and simply
talking to people you don’t know may find you in hot
water - and even asked to leave!
IronBrush
The hottest place in town for the alternative crowd, this
diverse and punky pub has walls adorned with musical in-
struments, games to play, and even a pool table. The owner
is one of the most famous tattoo artists in town and local
motorcycle enthusiasts regularly frequent. Cheap drinks are
the name of the game and the outdoor courtyard is partic-
ularly popping in the summertime. The coffee isn’t too bad,
either.QRr. Komuna e Parisit, Vila 2, tel. +355 67 543 10
02. Open 09:00-23:30; Sun 16:00-23:30. €. N­P­
Kino
This vintage-cinema-themed reinvention of one of the
wildest venues in the centre of town has proven that a
facelift doesn’t change the heart. This is still one of the
city’s biggest nightlife hotspots and parties pump ‘til
the early hours, with densely packed weekends putting
you in an unparalleled realm of closeness to others. Also
one of the best places in town to catch a rare glimpse
of someone daring to groove to the music.QRr. Pjetër
Bogdani, tel. +355 69 210 57 85. Open 09:00-2:00AM.
€€. A­P ­X ­E­
MyWay
The unofficial headquarters of Tirana’s alternative crowd,
MyWay in Blloku is one of the best places in town to
mingle with the locals - it may be the only bar in town
where it’s actually socially acceptable to talk to strang-
ers. Drinks are cheap, the waiters are friendly and this
pet-accommodating venue even has its own resident
cat. Don’t let the unassuming decor or dart boards fool
you - MyWay can certainly lead you to wild nights.QRr.
Pjetër Bogdani 11, tel. +355 69 227 05 54. Open 08:00-
12:00. N­P ­B ­E­
Noor
A cosy bar with a small terrace next to the historical
Toptani Serai, serving Spritz cocktails and fine Italian
food, including pasta, panini and risotto. There are oc-
casional music-themed nights but it’s Wednesday that
deserves a mention here for the aperitif night from
19:00-21:00, with unlimited finger food - within reason,
dear readers - for just 100 lek.QF‑5, Rr. Abdi Toptani,
tel. +355 69 700 7008, www.noor.com.al. Open 07:00-
23:00. €€. P­­
Nouvelle Vague
This popular establishment isn’t marked by a sign, but
is unmissable nevertheless due to the wild and happy
colour scheme used for the furniture, walls and air ducts.
44 Tirana In Your Pocket
Hammocks dangle for the ceiling, and the bearded gen-
tlemen behind the bar mix a great selection of shakes
cocktails to a backdrop of interesting music. They also
like inviting bartenders from neighbouring countries to
mix it up a bit.QH‑3, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, tel. +355 69
933 3622. Open 08:30-02:00. A­P ­B ­E­
Pepper Lounge
What was once one of the most bopping nightclubs in Bl-
loku has reinvented itself as an upscale lounge and bistro
bar aimed at a more sophisticated and well-dressed crowd.
Despite being a vast villa venue, it’s often still packed. Rather
curiously, their specialties are pizza and sushi, with a side
of cocktails. Still a place to party until the early hours, put
on your nicest clothes and enjoy the DJs and other special
events at weekends.QRr. Brigada VIII, tel. +355 69 849 70
81. Open 09:00-4:00AM. P­X­B­
Perla Tattoo & Bar
With an intoxicating mix of great music and craft beers,
Perla is a centre for Tirana’s alternative scene. This rock bar
features excellent live music nights, with jazz and blues
played on Thursdays and occasional open mic nights for
punters to show their talents. Should you be in the mood
for a tattoo, they can arrange this for you as well.QG‑3,
Rr. Reshit Çollaku 6, tel. +355 69 694 24 31. Open 11:00-
23:00; Sat, Sun 24hrs. €. N­P­G­B­E­
Radio Bar
Tirana’s alternative youth can often be found hanging
out at Radio Bar, where old radio station logos, black and
white photographs of bygone film stars, tartan ducts and
antique radio sets decorate the front room. Towards the
back, the semi-open terrace looks less enticing but is still
generally packed during the weekend evenings when DJs
and live music can be expected. Find Radio slightly hidden
away in the apartment building set back from the street.
QH‑4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 29/1, www.radiobar.al. Open
10:00-12:00. N­P­G­B­E­
Tiki Bar
Offering something of a castaway vibe, this two-floored
beach hut of a bar complete with wooden face masks and
lampshades made from seashells is about as close as it
gets to a Caribbean cocktail bar in contemporary Tirana.
Besides beer there’s a range of colourful mixed drinks and
freshly squeezed fruit juice, and regular live music gigs.
QI‑4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 68 518 0005. Open
07:00-24-00. €€. N­P­G­B­E­
Xheko Rooftop
The highlight of the Xheko Imperial Hotel, this elegant
14th-floor rooftop bar with its little pools and fountains
offers grand views, a nice breeze on hot summer days, Sat-
urday brunches, and sushi in the evening. DJs take care of
the music several nights a week - reservations are recom-
mended at weekends.QRr. Ibrahim Rugova 56, tel. +355
696 16 11 11, www.xheko-imperial.com. Open 07:00-
24:00. €€€. A­P­T­U­B­E­

blurred lines
Is it a bar? Is it a restaurant? No, it’s a super venue!
Things can be a little unclear in Tirana’s drinking and
dining establishments… the sleepy café you enjoyed
on a Monday morning just might also be the hottest
nightclub in town on a Thursday night.
Beer bars
Birrari Ke Tori
Down a few steps from street level, this lovely beer bar
has everything you need: cold local beer, freshly grilled
meat dishes, a small terrace and a friendly owner. Per-
fect for anything from a quick lunch or dinner to a night
of revelry.QG/H‑4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 69 238 76
07. Open 10:00-24:00. €. N­P ­B­
Bräuhaus
A loud and cheerful German-themed brewery restau-
rant and pub, with unfiltered and un-pasteurised
blonde, red and wheat beers made on the premises.
In the best Brauhaus tradition there’s also plenty of
Bavarian-style meat-heavy dishes on the menu, plus
occasional live music and screenings of sporting
events. A children’s play area is also provided for guz-
zlers with little ones in tow.QG‑4, Rr. Reshit Çollaku
38, tel. +355 68 376 96 42. Open 12:00-01:00. €€.
N­P ­G ­T ­E­
Hops Bar
A hopping bar offering more than 100 types of beer
from bottles or on tap, together with an excellent
range of pub food. Besides and insane range of Belgian
brews, Albanian microbrews worth sampling here in-
clude the Dyst IPA from Tirana (which is recommended
with a porcobello pulled pork burger) and the quirky
Birra e Gjyshit “Grandpa’s beer” from Pogradec. Keep an
eye on their social media for regular live music nights.
QH‑5/6, Rr. Elbasanit 85, tel. +355 69 207 7772,
www.hops-bar-tirana.business.site. Open 07:00-
24:00. €€. A­P ­B ­E­
Casinos
To get in to Tirana’s casinos you’ll need to be over 18 and
to have some form of ID; smart casual dress is fine.
Grand Casino
Promising the ‘Next Level’ of gambling entertainment,
the Grand offers tables for blackjack, poker, baccarat
and roulette and some 300 machines - accompanied
by fine dining and good cocktails.QF‑5, Rr. Abdi
Toptani, Maritim Plaza, tel. +355 4 244 4440, www.
grandcasinotirana.com. Open 24hrs. €€€. A­P ­X­
E­
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
Royal Eagle Casino
Table games and slot machines inside the MAK hotel.QJ‑5,
Sheshi Italia 2, MAK Hotel, tel. +355 4 451 88 88. Open
24hrs. €€€. A­P­X­U­B­
Cocktail bars
Gintoneria
Walk up the exterior staircase to find the excellent Ginto-
neria cocktail bar with its three-seater terrace overlooking
the street. With dozens of gin varieties stacked behind the
bar, and knowledgeable barmen who know their stuff,
this is a great place to simply ask for recommendations
and go with the gin flow. Beer is available as well, if you
really must.QH‑4, Rr. Vaso Pasha 7, tel. +355 68 400 00
36, www.ginto.al. Open 08:00-1:00. A­P­B­
Juliette Cocktail Bar
Whilst it hasn’t been around for long, nowhere is as well-
known for live music as Juliette which has managed to
quickly cement its position as the premier venue. All
tastes and genres are covered, with events including rock
shows, Latin nights and karaoke, but as they don’t heavily
focus on advertising, be prepared to just wander in and
see what’s going on. Weekends can get wild and see the
party keep popping until the early morning hours.QRr.
Pjetër Bogdani 37, tel. +355 69 578 5200. Open 11:00-
02:00AM. €€. N­P­G­E­
Mugo
Part of the Mulliri empire, this very elegant lounge bar
serves everything from brunch with coffee in the morning,
to burgers, sushi or exotic international dishes with classy
cocktails later at night. There’s a DJ at hand on Friday and
Saturday nights too.QH‑4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, tel. +355
69 706 63 70. Open 06:30-12:00. €€€. A­P­X­B­
Whiskey
Often frequented by the glitzy and the glamorous, it can
be difficult to find a space here, and while reservations can
be made, the staff aren’t known for their English skills. This
is one of the best places in Tirana to mingle with the locals,
with the front terrace hosting those who wish to be seen
and the back area becoming more and more like a nightclub
as the evening progresses. Despite its name, the cocktails
are the feature focus here.QRr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355
69 226 94 47. Open 07:00-1:00. €€. P­X­B­E­
Tanners’ Bridge
2022 45
 Nightlife
Games bars
Reels Gaming Club
A spacious Blloku lounge bar with a large terrace full of
elegant young people, a good selection of food, live music
on Wednesdays and a long bar serving cocktails non-stop.
Reels’ speciality however is games, with stacks of board
games, tables, drinking games and arcade machines free
to use for guests; Thursday is games night, when you can
compete with others.QH‑4, Rr. Brigada e VIII, Vila 1, tel.
+355 69 600 00 94. Open 07:00-23:00. A­P­E­
The ÇÁ ÇA
Numero uno when it comes to games bars. Located in
Kamëz on the northern periphery of Tirana, the ÇÁ ÇA is
a rooftop venue offering some of the best views in town,
day and night. Once inside, sit down, relax, eat, drink and
play a game of Monopoly - Albania style - or any other
myriad of board and card games on offer. A jovial place for
jovial people! The UBT University bus (white line 7) stops
directly in front of the venue.QBlv. Blu, Perballe UBT,
tel. +355 69 666 62 22, www.mydigitalinovation.com/
menu/the-a-a. Open 07:00-23:00. €€. N­P­
Time for a drink
46 Tirana In Your Pocket
Irish pubs
Meduza Irish Pub
An insanely popular Irish pub with Guinness on tap and
dozens of other bottles beer options, a wide range of
pub food and an cosy interior with the usual collection of
beer ads. The punters and staff are all extremely friendly,
the terrace has the propensity to keep you glued to your
seat until well after bedtime and, perhaps best of all, they
screen all the major international soccer matches.QH‑5,
Rr. Mustafa Matohiti, tel. +355 69 335 1654, www.
meduzairishpub.com. Open 06:30-12:00; Fri 07:00-2:00;
Sat, Sun 08:00-4:00. €€. A­P­G­B­
New Irish Pub
Hidden behind the Mangiafuoco steak restaurant, the New
Irish Pub is a fun, large bar decked out exactly as you would
expect, offering Irish beers, good music and pub food.
There’s regular live music and lively events like Thursdays’
karaoke night.QH‑4, Rr. Pjeter Pogdani 36/1, tel. +355 69
223 33 24. Open 17:00-2:00AM. A­P­B­E­
Strip clubs
Prostitution is illegal in Albania - but strip clubs aren’t.
Maria Bonita
A dance and strip club at the top end of Bulevardi Zogu
I, with fair prices and promising dancers from all over
the Balkans, private shows in a separate room and spe-
cial party nights. Admission free.QF‑5, Bulevardi Zogu I
53, tel. +355 67 411 10 88, www.mariabonita.al. Open
22:00-06:00. A­P­X­
Wine bars
Sophisticated interiors, quiet music and a good selection
of wines to sample.
Bonaparte
Up on the first floor of the building and overlooked by a
portrait of Napoleon, visitors are free to let themselves loose
on a dizzying array of quality French wines, cognac, over
30 types of whiskey and the exclusive Armagnac brandy.
Snacks are served, as are Cuban cigars that may be smoked
on the premises.QG/H‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 69
204 90 49. Open 07:00-02:00AM. A­P­G­
Vena
Wine lovers rejoice! Whilst many wine bars have come
and gone over the past years, the intimate Vena bar has
proved that it’s got what it takes to stay. The owner is pas-
sionate in his love of grapes and the staff are extremely
knowledgeable regarding their selection of varietals. Find
your new favourite sip whilst enjoying a plate of delicious
cold-cut meats and cheeses or, if feeling more famished,
dig into their signature pastas and risottos.QRr. Komuna
e Parisit 3/1, tel. +355 67 490 4376. Open 08:00-12:00.
€€€. A­P­B­W
 Shopping
Tirana has caught up with the rest of us and now boasts
more or less everything the modern shopper requires,
much of it for sale in modern shopping centres. A more au-
thentic Albanian retail experience can be had in the cheap
and cheerful neighbourhood shops staffed by grinning
proprietors, many of them more concerned with where
you’re from and if you have a husband or wife than what
you want to buy. Around the Pazar i Ri market, the bustling
streets cater to singular tastes such as bicycles, second-
hand clothes and furniture.
Books
Tirana’s bookshops rarely offer many English-language
titles, with the two listed here the main exceptions.
Adrion International Books
The best selection of English-language books in (and
about) Albania, including a wide selection of novels, art
books, guidebooks, maps and an ever-increasing selec-
tion of translated Albanian literature and titles on local
history and culture. Also at the airport.QE‑4, Sheshi Skën-
derbej, Palace of Culture, tel. +355 4 450 26 06, www.
adrionltd.com. Open 08:00-21:30. A
Bookland
A large selection of English-language novels can be found
at this colourful shop on the 3rd floor of the ETC.QG‑5,
Blvd Bajram Curri, Galeria ETC, tel. +355 68 409 91 99,
www.bookland.al. Open 9:00-21:00. A
Fashion
Before the arrival of the large shopping centres, Rruga
Myslym Shyri and surroundings used to the the go-to place
for fashion - and it still offers a decent clothes shopping
experience.
Il Cammino
Elegant shoes.QG‑3, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 69
557 52 21, www.ilcammino.al. Open 9:00-21:00; closed
Sun. A
Illyrian Bloodline
Urban fashion by Albanian hiphop artist Rigels Rajku, aka
Noizy. Albania’s first fashion brand uses organic cotton for
its comfortable hoodies, T-shirts and more, often featuring
big letters and graphics inspired by Albanian history. On
the eastern side of the National Stadium.QI‑5, Rr. Dervish
Hima, tel. +355 69 440 41 88, www.illyrianbloodline.
com.
Perla Shop
Albania’s largest online female fashion boutique, with a
great selection, good prices, delivery within 24 hours in
Albania and an Instagram channel with 250 thousand fol-
lowers (which means basically everyone who has a phone
in Albania) following the riveting adventures of the five
Perla models.Qwww.perlashop.al.
48 Tirana In Your Pocket
cash is king
Even a global pandemic couldn’t turn Albania into a
card-carrying country, so come prepared with cash lek
in almost all bars and restaurants. Whilst some venues
more accustomed to foreigners are slowly catching
on, you should be aware that staff may not know
the intricacies of payment machines, and tips should
always be in cash.
Twenty five
Modern fashion, shoes, bags and accessories for contem-
porary women. Also at Rr. Sami Frashëri.  QI‑4, Rr. Abdyl
Frasheri 7, tel. +355 69 862 69 67. Open 09:00-21:30.
Zero Absolute
Quality ladies’ fashion at reasonable prices.QI‑3, Rr.
Sulejman Delvina, tel. +355 69 208 00 70, www.
zeroabsolute.com. Open 08:00-21:30.
Gifts & Souvenirs
The best souvenir shopping is in Kruja, where shops are
full of jewellery, antiques and knickknacks. In Tirana, the
Pazar i Ri market has good souvenir options and kiosks at
the southern end of Rr. Barrikadave sell Albania mugs, dolls
and bunker ashtrays. Albanian cheese and other foodstuffs
also make excellent gifts if you can get them home without
eating them all on the plane.
Art Forever
Folk costumes, antique chests, wood carvings and old
books, near the corner of Blv. Bajram Curri.QG/H‑4, Rr.
Vaso Pasha 99, tel. +355 4 224 63 86. Open 10:30-21:00;
closed Sun. A
Hoda
The “House of Design Albania” offers striking, large paint-
ings of Albanians in traditional dress, beautiful carpets,
pottery and furniture.QF‑5, Rr. Murat Toptani, Tirana
Castle, tel. +355 68 200 78 80. Open 09:00-21:00.
Pirro Souvenirs
A good selection of handicrafts and souvenirs; flags,
T-shirts, and mugs depicting Enver Hoxha, King Zog and
Mother Teresa.QI‑4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, tel. +355 4 222
55 87. Open 09:00-21:00. A
Tradita Popullore Edlira
Traditional Albanian costumes for women and men for
sale. You can also try these on for a photo session at the
Tirana Castle souvenir shop.QCasa Italia, Tirana-Durres
highway, tel. +355 68 309 91 09. Open 08:00-21:00;
closed Sun.
 Shopping
Markets
Anyone with a cardboard box, a few packets of cigarettes
and a square metre of pavement is effectively a market
trader in Tirana. Whenever it rains, people will appear as if
by magic, armed with a clutch of umbrellas.

Pazari i Ri
Tirana’s ‘new market’ is the city’s main source of fresh
produce. Indoors there’s meat, fish and cheese, while an
elegant roof protects the sellers of olives, figs, wine, raki,
and - our favourite souvenir - woolly house socks. Early
morning is the best time of day to witness the Balkan-style
trading and haggling. The area has seen huge investment
recently, which has resulted in a lively scene with many
good restaurants.QE‑5, Sheshi Avni Rustemi, www.
pazariiri.com. Open 04:30-23:00.

Tregu i Çamëve
This long, semi-covered alley is the main clothing and mis-
cellaneous items market in Tirana, lined with stalls packed
with cheap Chinese knock-offs, underwear, sports goods
and plastic toys. Branching off from here, Rr. Çameria is the
market street for mobile phones, kitchenware and bikes.
QF‑3, Rr. Shyqyri Berxolli. Open 08:00-18:00; closed Sun. Pazari i Ri market

Shopping centres QTU (Qendra Tregtare Univers)

Until fairly recently, Tirana’s shopping centres were pre-
dominantly upmarket affairs pandering to the sophistic-
ated tastes of the city’s fashion-conscious wives and girl-
friends. This all changed with the opening of TEG, a massive
complex on the edge of the city reminiscent of any shop-
ping centre found in Western Europe.
Casa Italia
A large complex with various mid-range shop outlets.
QTirana-Durrës highway, tel. +355 48 86 05 12, www.
casaitalia.al. Open 09:00-21:00. A
Coin
An Italian department store on the lower floors of the
high-rise ABA building, selling fashion, home appliances,
children’s toys and other nice things.QH‑5, Rr. Papa Gjon
Pali II, ABA Business Center, tel. +355 4 450 17 37, www.
coin.al. Open 09:00-21:00. A
Galeria ETC
One of the first modern shopping centres, the ‘European
Trade Center’ has around 25 shops and a restaurant.
There’s a Conad supermarket on the ground floor and
a good bookshop upstairs.QG‑5, Rr. Bajram Curri, tel.
+355 4 225 41 00, www.galeria-etc.com. Open 09:30-
21:30. A
Kristal Center
A shopping centre with a Conad supermarket.QRr. Frang
Bardhi, tel. +355 4 480 10 28, www.kristalcenter.com.
Open 09:00-21:00. A
tirana.inyourpocket.com
The QTU shopping centre has a large Carrefour supermar-
ket, electronics shop, a food court and a Cineplexx cinema
with love seats at the back.QTirana-Durrës highway, km
6, tel. +355 4 238 01 00, www.qtu.al. Open 09:00-21:00.
Open Apr-Sept 09:00-22:00, Oct-Mar 09:00-21:00. A
Ring Center
A massive shopping complex within walking distance of
the city centre with some 70 shops on three levels, restau-
rants, ice-skating, and children’s activities. The bus termi-
nal for western and northern Albania is at the rear of the
complex.QD‑2, Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha, tel. +355 4 454
06 00, www.ring.al. Open 09:00-22:00. A
TEG (Tirana East Gate)
The largest and most popular shopping centre in Albania
features two floors of shops, a food court, cafés, a huge In-
terspar hypermarket and a cinema. Also the location of the
new international bus station serving the east and south
of the country.QRr. Nacionale, Highway Tirane-Elbasan,
tel. +355 4 239 50 01, www.teg.al. Open 10:00-21:00;
Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00. A
Toptani Shopping Center
The newest large mall in the city centre has 6 floors of
shops and great views over Tirana from the top floor,
where there’s also a kids’ play area and few food options
such as a Nona buffet restaurant. A supermarket and ATMs
including a Credins Bank one can be found downstairs.
QF‑5, Rr. Abdi Toptani, tel. +355 4 454 09 99, www.
toptani.com.al/en. Open 09:00-22:00.
2022 49
 Shopping
Speciality food
Baronesha
The expats’ go-to shop for ‘a taste of home’, from
Vegemite to sauce hollandaise, vegan cheese to filet
mignon - Baronesha has it all, even diet soda and ci-
der.QH‑3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 68 407 43 19,
www.baronesha.al. Open 08:30-22:00.
Masè
High quality imported meat and other hard-to-find
Italian products such as gluten-free pasta. Also cheese,
wine, sausages and jam.QD‑4, Rr. Sami Frasheri,
tel. +355 68 205 7230/+355 68 205 72 30, www.
cottomase.it. Open 11:00-23:00. A
Mia Organic
Organic meat, fruit, vegetables and dairy products
from local organic producers.QH‑5, Rr. Ismail Qemali,
tel. +355 69 707 59 54, www.mia.al. Open 07:30-
21:00. A­G ­S ­W
Neptun
Electronics shop. Also in the TEG, Kristal and QTU malls,
as well as other outlets.QE‑5, Sheshi Avni Rustemi, tel.
+355 4 450 50 50, www.neptun.al. Open 09:00-21:00.
A
Supermarkets
Big Market
A central, little supermarket.QE‑5, Rr. Barrikadave, tel.
+355 69 707 60 25, www.bigmarket.al. Open 09:00-
21:00.
Bio Ju
Organic products.QI‑4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 69
806 02 22, www.bioju.al. Open 08:00-23:00.
Conad
Italian supermarket chain with shops all over Tirana.QG‑5,
ETC Galeria, tel. +355 4 227 01 74, www.conadalbania.
al. Open 07:30-22:00. A

Mon Amour Eco Market

Fresh, hand-made chocolates, cakes, sweets and
desserts all made in-house. Also on Rr. e Elbasanit.
QD‑5, Rr. Barikadave, tel. +355 68 342 50 97, www.
monamour.al. Open 07:00-22:00. A
Natyral & Organik
Organic olive oil, raki, wine, honey, and dried herbs.
QH‑4, Rr. Vaso Pasha 3, tel. +355 69 209 90 47. Open
08:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-14:00, 17:30-21:00. A
Albanian supermarket brand with many outlets in Ti-
rana.QD‑4, Rr.Him Kolli, tel. +355 4 450 42 86, www.
ecomarket.al. Open 07:00-23:00. A
Spar
A supermarket chain with stores of various sizes all over
the city, and a hypermarket at the TEG mall.QH‑5, Rr. Per-
lat Rexhepi, tel. +355 48 845 900, www.spar.al. Open
07:00-00:00. A

Neranxi
Home cooks looking for a taste of Asia or Mexico
should head to the nearest Neranxi supermarket,
which stocks all colours of rice, speciality herbs and
spices, nuts, sauces, and more. Also at the Pazar i Ri
market.QRr. Sami Frashëri 40, tel. +355 4 240 65 00.
Open 24hrs.

San Tara Wine

A great little shop selling an excellent range of wine,
brandy and raki from their own vineyards.QF/G‑4, Rr
Myslym Shyri, tel. +355 68 60 60 380. Open 09:00-
21:00. A

Speciality shops
Atom Computers
PCs, mobile phones, data projectors, monitors, ac-
cessories and lots of other computer-related goods.
QG/H‑3, Rr. Myslym Shyri, tel. +355 69 985 41 99,
www.atom.al. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sun. A

Molla Store
Authorised Apple products reseller. Guess what molle
means?QH‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, Sky Tower, tel. Shoeshining throne
+355 68 204 88 87, www.molla.al. Open 08:00-20:00.
50 Tirana In Your Pocket

The Albanian capital’s hotel scene is as dynamic as
ever, with a new Marriott opening in August beside
the national stadium, and Hyatt set to take over the
former Sheraton by the Grand Park. Besides the big
hitters, Tirana features a place to stay on almost every
street, including a dazzling array of mid-range hotels
and hostels. If you’re sleeping on a budget in Tirana,
consider how near to a mosque you are; the first call
to prayers of the day can be depressingly early. Room
prices listed here include breakfast unless otherwise
mentioned, and hotel categories are based on the
price of the cheapest double room (listed in euros
though payment is in lek).
Cream of the crop
Arté Boutique Hotel
Set in a gem of a building sandwiched between
more modern high-rises, the Arté Boutique Hotel is a
charming place with spacious, quiet rooms, great ser-
vice and a beautiful restaurant with a terrace. And in
the middle of the Blloku area, you’re spoilt for choice
when it comes to food and entertainment.QH‑4, Rr.
Ibrahim Rugova 32, tel. +355 68 409 92 22, www.
artehotel.al. 14 rooms (singles €125, doubles €135,
2 suites €150). A­P ­G ­B ­K ­H­
MAK Hotel Tirana
Between the city centre and the Grand Park, the for-
mer Sheraton and future Hyatt hotel offers world-class
services and amenities. The lovely large rooms come
with comfy beds and wooden floors, and suites have
extra seating areas and bathtubs. The restaurant, gym
and pool are all top-notch as well. The rooms face
either the city or the park, you choose.QJ‑5, Sheshi
Italia, tel. +355 4 227 47 07/+355 (0) 69 208 7151,
www.makalbania.com. 151 rooms (singles €90-130,
95 doubles €110-150, 55 suites €150-2000). A­P ­
G­U ­B ­L ­K ­H ­C ­D ­F ­O ­w­
Maritim Hotel Plaza Tirana
Inside the interesting-looking skyscraper just east of
Sheshi Skënderbej, Maritim Plaza Tirana offers a mighty
collection of services together with almost 200 rooms
spread out on 23 floors. Besides the views, guests can
enjoy a gym open around the clock, a luxury spa and
no less than three restaurants.QF‑5, Rr. Abdi Toptani
18, tel. +355 4 221 12 21, www.plazatirana.com. 190
rooms (singles €120-150, doubles €146-256, suites
€386). A­P ­G ­U ­B LJK­H ­D ­F ­w­
Rogner Hotel Tirana
One of Albania’s top hotels both for its services and
its reputation as a meeting point for locals and for-
eign visitors alike since 1995, the Rogner’s rooms are
decked out with stylish wooden floors and furniture,
some with balconies for some wonderful views. The
highlight of the hotel is arguably its garden, complete
with swimming pool, tennis court, putting green and
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Where to Stay
SYMBOL key
P Air-conditioning T Child-friendly
A Credit cards accepted F Fitness centre
H Conference facilities G Non-smoking
U Facilities for the disabled K Restaurant
K Restaurant C Swimming pool
playground, where the brilliant breakfast is served
during the summer.QH‑5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit,
tel. +355 4 223 50 35, www.hotel-europapark.com.
178 rooms (134 double rooms, 18 deluxe rooms, 25
suites). A­P ­G ­U ­B ­L ­W ­K ­H ­C ­F ­i
Upmarket
Arbër
Mercifully quiet compared to many other city cen-
tre hotels, the Arbër is a great little hotel hidden in
the streets east of Sheshi Skënderbej. Inside, expect
friendly service and small but well-appointed rooms.
QE‑4, Rr. Bardhok Biba 59, tel. +355 4 227 38 11,
www.hotelarber.com. 24 rooms (5 singles €40, 18
doubles €50, 1 triple €60). A­P ­L ­J ­K ­H
Boka
A lovely city centre choice, this striking yellow Ital-
ianate building in the middle of the lively Pazari i Ri
market district has comfortable rooms in 19th-century
design, some with balconies. The basement breakfast
room has the largest wrap-around aquarium we’ve
seen, with fish eying your egg and bacon through the
windows.QE‑5, Rr. Shemsi Haka 4, tel. +355 68 494
35 12, www.hotel-boka.al. 20 Rooms(17 doubles
€55-€65, Singles €45, 2 Triple €80-€90, 1 Family
Room €100). A­P ­B­
Brilant Antik
Central, quiet, family-run and welcoming, the Brilant
Antik has grand rooms decorated with plenty of
hand-carved wood. There’s a traditionally furnished
Albanian/Italian restaurant in the basement.QF‑5, Rr.
Jeronim de Rada 79, tel. +355 4 225 11 66/+355 69
20 20 719, www.hotelbrilant.com. 15 rooms (singles
€50- €60 doubles €65-€75). A­P ­G ­T ­L ­J ­R­­
K­H ­D ­w­
Exchange rates: €1=121 lek, $1=115 lek
2022 51
 Where to Stay
Classic
Bursting with friendly staff, the smart, Scandinavian-style
rooms at the Classic come in a choice of singles, twins and
doubles, all featuring en suite facilities, reliable wireless in-
ternet connections and a few free newspapers in English.
Good for business and independent travellers alike, there’s
also a restaurant, bar and conference room.QF‑1, Rr. Sule-
jman Delvina, tel. +355 69 808 00 69, www.classichotel.
al. 14 rooms ( 3 singles €45, 9 doubles €55-65, 1 triple
€65). A­P­G­U­B­L­K­H
Grand Spa Hotel
The centrally placed Grand is still one of the city’s best, and its
small size adds to its charm. The comfortable rooms are well
insulated against street sounds emanating from the blloku,
and the hotel also has some snazzy extras such as an indoor
swimming pool, Jacuzzi, gym and sauna (closed at time of
writing).QH‑3, Rr. Ismail Qemali 11, tel. +355 4 224 79 96,
www.grandhoteltirana.com. 32 rooms (Singles €70, dou-
bles €85, 2 suites €150). A­P­G­L­K­H­F­
Green House
A small and charming business hotel above the epony-
mous restaurant on a quiet street yet near all the action.
With well-designed boutique rooms and suites, some
with a terrace, there’s room service around the clock.
QG‑5, Rr. Jul Varibova 6, tel. +355 69 205 7599, www.
greenhouse.al. Non stop. 23 rooms (singles €60, dou-
bles €70, 3 suites €90). A­P­G­L­R­K­
52 Tirana In Your Pocket
Hilton Garden Inn
Near an upcoming hotspot of restaurants and bars at
the western end of the centre, the Hilton’s first Alba-
nian hotel has bright, decent-sized rooms, many of
them with balconies, a great breakfast, a keen eye for
the needs of deiabled guests, and top-notch service.
QG‑1, Bv. Gjergj Fishta, tel. +355 4 220 0444, www.
hiltongardeninntirana.com. 143 rooms (singles €60-
75, doubles €75-90, suites €105). A­P ­G ­T ­U ­L­­
K­H ­F­
Kotoni
Sleep in the heart of Tirana’s administrative district. At
the Kotoni the boutique rooms are large with high ceil-
ings and modern facilities. The elegant hotel café terrace
is where the who’s who of Albanian politics comes to
have coffee.QH‑4, Rr. Donika Kastrati 3, tel. +355 4 227
airport hotel
N Hotel by Noshi
A comfortable hotel near to the airport, with quiet
rooms, personal service, a restaurant and a bar. Guests
also have the convenience of the Hertz car rental office
in the same building. Free airport transfers between
08:30-23:00.QRr. Rinasit, tel. +355 69 206 44 48,
www.nhotelbynoshi.com. 11 rooms (singles €50-68,
doubles €55-72, suites €80-88). P­G­B­L­K­

48 88, www.hotelkotoni.com. 27 rooms (singles €75,
doubles €90- €100, deluxe €105). A­P ­G ­U ­J ­K­
Oxford
Unlike many of its type, the Oxford has been designed
to fit in with its old Tirana surroundings for a change.
Old outside but thoroughly modern inside, the halls and
large guest rooms are decorated with modern paintings
and works of art. Breakfast is served on the wonderful
rooftop café, open for all to try Viennese pastries and
snacks.QF‑5, Rr. Xhorxhi Martini 10, tel. +355 4 225
5937/+355 4 22 55 937, www.hoteloxford.al/en. 28
rooms (2 singles €50, 23 doubles €60, 3 suites €80-
€120). A­P ­G ­U ­K ­H ­D ­F­
Padam Hotel
A stylish and central boutique hotel in a charming white
villa, with six comfortably furnished rooms featuring
contemporary artwork. Padam’s restaurant and terrace
bar are excellent as well.QH‑5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, tel.
+355 69 202 5122, www.padam.al. 6 rooms (singles
€60- €80, doubles €70- €100). A­P ­G ­B ­K­
Te Stela
Just off the Durres highway, halfway the city centre and
the airport, Te Stela is a comfortable brewery-owned ho-
tel with calm rooms, a restaurant and beergarden serv-
ing their very own Stela beer, brewed just down the road.
For a small fee, guests can make use of the spa facilities
THE ALBANIAN WAY OF HOSPITALITY
Where to Stay
which include a sauna, Jacuzzi, Turkish steam bath and
‘emotional showers’ and treatments including massage
and manicure. For another fee, you can access the huge
attached sports complex, with large indoor and outdoor
semi-Olympic pools.QTirana-Durrës highway, km 7,
tel. +355 67 203 33 09, www.testela.al. 100 rooms (sin-
gles €47, 33 doubles €63, 12 suites €78-90). A­P ­T­
L­K ­C ­D ­F
The Rooms
A particularly plugged-in hotel, where the the Apple TVs,
lighting, curtains, shutters and other electronics in the
stark white rooms are controlled via an iPad, whilst those
staying in the business suites also get an iMac. All rooms
have balconies, Nespresso machines and safes. Guests
can also make use of the Nobis spa downstairs.QK‑4, Rr.
Sami Frasheri 56, Nobis complex, tel. +355 4 555 05 01,
www.theroomsapartmentstirana.com. (Singles €35,
doubles €45-50, apartments €65-105). A­P ­L ­6­­
K­C ­F ­w
Tirana International Hotel
Built in the 1970s with help of the Chinese, for years Ti-
rana’s main landmark was the only high-rise in the coun-
try and one of only three hotels in town accepting for-
eigners (in bugged rooms of course), with propaganda
slogans on the roof and escape tunnels for the elite. The
international-standard rooms here are fine now, though
the building is completely dwarfed by the gigantic new



tirana.inyourpocket.com 2022 53
 Where to Stay
hotel under construction right behind it.QE‑4, Sheshi
Skënderbej 8, tel. +355 4 223 41 85/+355 68 60 38 980,
www.tiranainternational.com. 168 rooms (singles
€116-133, doubles €126-145, suites €200-240). A­P­
G­L ­R ­K ­H ­C ­D ­F ­w­
Xheko Imperial
A fascinating Albanian-style luxury hotel, the high-rise
section offers over-the-top suites that drip with glam,
each named after a famous painting. The open Jacuzzi
bathrooms are any girl’s dream, and the fairy-tale silk-
draped four-poster beds are really rather extravagant.
Don’t miss the excellent rooftop bar.QI‑4, Rr. Ib-
rahim Rugova 56, tel. +3554 2259574, www.xheko-
imperial.com. 28 rooms (7 singles €110, 6 doubles
€150, 15 suites €250-350). A­P ­L ­K ­H ­F
mid-range
Good value. Doubles between €50 and €90.
City Hotel
A nice mid-range option in a quiet courtyard in the
middle of an area of good bars and restaurants, City
Hotel’s rooms are clean and basic, with minibars and
decent internet. Breakfast is served in the room behind
reception, and there’s a small supermarket around the
corner.QH‑5, Rr. Ismail Qemali 8/1, tel. +355 69 202
07 57, www.hotelcitytirana.com. 16 rooms (10 sin-
gles €32-60, 6 doubles €75). A­P ­G ­L­
Diplomat
Originally Tirana’s first proper boutique hotel, this
continues to be a popular choice with those who can
afford their magnificent executive and deluxe rooms.
The facilities boast everything one would expect from
a hotel in this category, plus there’s a very good buf-
fet breakfast on offer and an in-house spa featuring
sauna, Jacuzzi and massage. West of the centre.QF‑1,
Blv. Bajram Curri, tel. +355 69 203 04 57, www.
diplomathotels.al. 26 rooms (2 singles €65, 24 dou-
bles €75-€120). A­P ­G ­U ­E ­L ­R ­K ­H ­D ­w­
Elysée
A quality mid-range hotel featuring friendly service, a
top location near the US and Italian embassies and a
gurgling fountain. The rooms are modern and quiet,
with king-sized beds and iron balconies, although
there’s no lift to get you between the four floors.
QH‑5/6, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji 2/173, tel. +355
4 222 28 80, www.hotelelysee-al.com. 20 rooms (3
singles €39-45, 13 doubles €47-52, 4 triples €60).
A­P ­B ­L ­K­
Exchange rates: €1=121 lek, $1=115 lek
54 Tirana In Your Pocket
Budget
Freddy’s Hotel
Once one of very few affordable options in the city, Fred-
dy’s is a marvellous family-run venture on a pleasantly quiet
street that’s still among the best budget places to stay
considering they almost give the rooms away for free. The
rooms are basic to say the least, but there’s en suite bath-
rooms and Freddy himself, the amiable, English-speaking
owner.QE‑4, Rr. Bardhok Biba 75, tel. +355 68 203 52 61,
www.freddyshotel.com. 14 rooms (12 twins €28, 1 triple
€50,1 quadruple €59). A­P­G­L­
Hostels
Buff Hostel
A relaxed hostel just east of the main square and Pazar i Ri
market, Buff offers simple plywood-style dorm rooms with
lockers and clean shared facilities, all at great prices. The
private rooms with ensuite bathroom are especially good
value. The owners are at hand to help with tips about Tirana
and Albania.QE‑6, Rr. Johan Fon Han 4, tel. +35567 401 18
10, www.buffhosteltirana.com. 9 rooms (dorm beds €9,
4 twins €20, 3 triples €30). N­P­X­B­
Milingona Hostel
A hostel in an old house just a short walk Sheshi Skënderbej
and near the Pazar i Ri market, ‘The Ant’ has clean dormito-
ries with bunk beds and shared facilities, and private rooms,
all with free breakfast. There’s a kitchen, laundry service, a
nice garden, and the hostel organises pub crawls, tours
and other activities.QE‑6, Rr. Vehbi Agolli 11, tel. +355 69
207 00 76, www.milingonahostel.com. 10 rooms (dorm
beds €8-18, 1 double €28-36, 1 triple €40). N­P­G­B­
E­W
Tirana Backpacker Hostel
Albania’s very first hostel opened in 2005, and after several
reincarnations is now housed in a century-old Italian-style
villa just off Rr. e Kavajës. What makes this place great is the
welcoming reception, summer garden and the relaxed vibe.
Facilities include a shared kitchen, bike rental (500 lek/day),
and free breakfast. They organise affordable day trips (available
to non-guests as well) to Dajti mountain, Kruja, wild beaches
near Durres, and to Pellumbas village, where you can hike to
an impressive cave and stay at house to experience Albanian
mountain village life.QE‑3, Rr. Bogdaneve 3, tel. +355 68 468
23 53, www.tiranahostel.com. 6 rooms (dorm beds from
€10, singles €18, doubles €35). A­P­
Trip’n Hostel
Housed inside a colourful old villa and run by welcoming
locals, the communal rooms here are filled with antiques
and memorabilia. Each bunk bed has a locker, and the base-
ment room is cool during the summer and warm and cosy
with a fireplace in winter. Ask to see the Communist-era air-
raid shelter behind the building.QD/E‑6, Rr. Musa Maci 1,
tel. +355 68 304 89 05, www.tripnhostel.com. 7 rooms
(dorm beds from €11). A­P­B­
BUFF
HOSTEL TIRANA

RECHARGE IN ONE OF OUR COMFORTABLE PRIVATE ROOMS OR DORMS

AFTER A LONG DAY OF DISCOVERING THE CITY

Words from our guest:

"Are you ready for a good night’s sleep? Clean

and crisp with little frills, this hostel is a dream
space for the minimalist backpacker. The hostel is
quieter compared to some of its neighboring
hostels, and perfect for the backpacker who likes
to take a breath and relax without too much fuss
after touring all day.
The private rooms are lovely; one private attic
room has wooden beam ceilings with a large,
comfortable bed. The double bed private rooms
also have balconies. If you’ve been dorming it up
during your trip, this may be the hostel to splurge
a little and get some alone time.. "

*https://www.travelinglifestyle.net/best-hostels-
tirana/

BUFF HOSTEL TIRANA

Johan Fon Han st., bld. 4, Tirana, Albania
Contact us directly at:
buffhosteltirana@gmail.com,
+355674011810 /+355672823620
Visit us at: buffhosteltirana.com
 Directory
QR payments
POK
An app for reliable payments and money transfers,
set to launch this summer. Easy to set up, you can pay
restaurant, bar or utility bills by scanning the vendor’s
QR code, or use it to send and receive payments from
others.QRr. Frang Bardhi, Qendra Kristal, tel. +355
69 704 72 31, www.pokpay.io.

The Cloud at the National Gallery of Arts Prodent

Dentists, hospitals, embassies and lots more.
Pharmacies
Ditë e Natë
QRr. Myslym Shyri, tel. +355 67 733 3777, www.
ditenate.al/en. Open 06:00-03:00.
Greek Pharma (Farmacia Greke)
QBlv. Bajram Curri, Pallatet Agimi, tel. +355696035148,
www.farmaciagreke.com. Open 08:00-22:00.
Pharma Net
QRr. Siri Kodra, Nr.8/660, Kat 1, tel. +355 69 609 9222,
www.farma-net.com. Open 07:00-23:00.
Pharmatech
QD‑5, Rr. Barrikadave, tel. +355 697033491, www.
farmatech.al. Open 08:30-22:00; closed Sun.
QF‑1, Rr.Dervish Hima, Kati 2, tel. +355 67 200 1958,
www.klinika-prodent.business.site. Open 08:30 - 14:00,
16:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Tirana Center (Klinikë Dentare TIRANA
CENTER)
QG‑3, Rr. e Dibrës, tel. +355 67 451 3186/04 223 1564,
www.klinike-dentare-tirana-center.business.site.
Open 09:00-19:00; Sat 09:00-12:00; closed Sun.
UFO Clinic (Poliklinika Dentare Ufo)
QF‑2, Rr. Kavajës,Pallati 3, tel. +355 4 224 00 28, www.
ufodentalclinic.com. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 08:00-
12:00; closed Sun.
Opticians
Italoptike
QD‑5, Rr. Dibrës 271, tel. +355 (0) 4 2222 985, www.
italoptik.al. Open 08:00-20:00; closed Sun.

Optika 1 (Optika One)

Dentists QF‑5, Rr. Abdi Toptani, Toptani Center, tel. +355 69 406
The Albanian for dental clinic is klinika dentare. 6387, www.optikaone.com/al.

B.E.L Dent (Klinika Bel Dent) Optika Bruna (Ottica Bruna)

QBlv. Bajram Curri, Pallatet Agimi, Shk 7, tel. +355 68 QG‑4, Blv. Bajram Curri, tel. +355 4 224 63 61. Open
282 0771. 09:00-13:00/16:00-20:00; closed Sun.

Diamond Dental
QKryqëzimi 21-Dhjetorit, tel. +355 67 20 81 818, www. Hospitals & Clinics
diamond-dental.al. American Hospital (Spitali Amerikan)
A modern hospital along the Durrës highway, with inter-
Emerald Dental Clinic national staff.QE‑6, Rr. Beqir Luga, tel. +355 (0) 42 35
QRr. e Kavajes, Pallati me Shigjeta, tel. +355 69 205 72 75 35, www.al.spitaliamerikan.com/en.
77, www.emeraldental.com.
Hygeia Hospital (Spitali Hygeia)
Ledismile Dental Clinic Albania’s first large private hospital.QTirana-Durrës high-
QRr. Irfan Tomini, pall. Alfa, Shk.1, Ap.1, tel. +355 69 512 way, tel. +355 4 239 00 00, www.hygeia.al.
2299, www.ledismile.com. Open 09:00-19:00; closed
Sun. Klinika Irma
A large private multi-speciality clinic near the Grand Park.
Ortholux Doctors speak English, French and Italian.QI‑4, Rr. Dora
QH/I‑5, Rr. Themistokli Germenji, tel. +355 69 404 D’Istria, tel. +355 4 224 30 00. Open 09:00-18:00; Fri
2956, www.ortholux.com. 09:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-12:00; closed Sun.
56 Tirana In Your Pocket
 Directory
Hairdressers
Ardi Hair Fashion
Hair styling by Ardi Borova.QH‑3, Rr. Vaso Pasha 7, tel.
+355 68 202 61 18, www.ardiborova.com/al. Open
08:30-19:30; closed Sun.

Salon Arber
Professional men’s barber shop for haircuts, styling, beards New architecture by the lake
and barber’s massages.QRr. Gjik Kuqali, tel. +355 69 265
22 77. Open 09:00-21:00. Magnet Gym
QRr. Frosina Plaku, Kompleksi Magnet, Nr.40, tel. +355
69 89 02 578, www.magnetgym.al.
Dry cleaners
FAST & CLEAN MMA Center (Tirana MMA Center,
QD‑4, Rr. Esat Mekuli, Ish Fusha e Aviacionit, tel. +355 Akademia e Arteve Marciale)
69 389 3615. Open 09:00-20:00. QD‑6, Rr. Qemal Stafa, tel. +355 69 402 4540, www.
tiranammacenter.com. Open 09:00-20:00.
Pastrim Kimik Lavander
QI‑4, Rr. Nikolla Tupe, 5, tel. +355 69 341 1119, www. Nobis Wellness Center
lavander.co. QRr. Sami Frashëri Kompleksi TID, tel. +355 6890 46
000, www.nobis.al.
Fitness centres Ring Fitexpress
Angel’s Fitness Gym QD‑1, Rr. Muhamed Gjollesha, Ring Center, tel. +355 4
QRr. e Kavajes, Pallati Orion, 2, tel. +355 69 402 19 01, 454 06 00, www.ring.al/fitexpress.
www.angels-fitness-gym.business.site. Open 08:00-
24:00; closed Sun. Rock Tirana Climbing Gym (Rock Tirana)
QRr. Ali Visha 8, tel. +355 68 269 7564, www.rocktirana.
Fitness Forma Gym (Fitness FORMA & com. Open 16:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00.
Baholli’s BAR)
QD‑4, Rr. Maliq Muço, tel. +355 04 562 9240. Open Vesa Spa & Fitness
08:00-23:00. QI‑4, Rr. Abdyl Frasheri Tirana, tel. +355 67 406 9309.
Open 8:00-21:00.

58 Tirana In Your Pocket


Libraries
American Corner
QE‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej (National Library), tel. +355
04 222 6955. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 08:00-20:00;
Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun.
Musine Kokalari Library (Biblioteka
Musine Kokalari)
QBlv. Gjergj Fishta, Vasil Shanto.
National Library
QE‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej (Palace of Culture), tel. +355
422 69 955, www.bksh.al. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-
14:00; closed Sun.
Directory
co-working
Coolab
800 square metres of workstations and meeting
rooms, with a cafetaria, lockers, printing services and
an active local community. From €8 per day.QF‑2, Rr.
e Kavajës 50, tel. +355 67 404 44 94, www.coolab.al.
Dutch Hub
A large co-working space in the blloku area with
private office rental, virtual office services, meeting
rooms, a terrace. From €10 per day for a desk.QH‑4, Rr.
Brigada VIII, tel. +355 68 209 20 89, www.dutchhub.
al/en.

University Library (BIBLIOTEKA SHKEN- Hotspot Tirana

CORE ALBANOLOGJIKE) QRr. Tafaj, tel. +355688321066, www.
QI‑4, Sheshi Nënë Tereza, tel. +355 42 24 07 13, www. hotspottirana.com. Open 08:00-22:00.
asa.edu.al/site/bsha. Open 08:00-19:00; Sat 08:00-
13:00; closed Sun. Innospace
QRr. Pjetër Bogdani, tel. +355 69 219 2666, www.
innospacetirana.com. Open 09:00-19:00.
Language courses
Goethe Zentrum Albania MyOffice’Al
Learn Deutsch.QRr. Skënderbej, Nr.1, tel. +355 69 20 75 QRr. Asim Vokshi, tel. +355 67 201 52 60, www.
751, www.goethe.al/sq. myoffice.al.

Lincoln Center
Language courses for adults: Albanian, English and Ger-
man. Also at Rr. Ismail Qemali 31. QH‑4, Rr. Qemal Stafa Removal companies
184, tel. +355 68 201 0607, www.lincolnalbania.org. AGS Albania
Open 8:00-20:00; closed Sun. QRr. Llazar Xhajanka 1027, tel. +355 4 450 06 17, www.
agsmovers.com.
International schools Cagatay Lojistik
Albanian International School QVore, Tirane, tel. +355 67 550 27 68.
QH‑6, Rr. Elbasanit 24, tel. +355 69 47 46 856, www.ais-
tirana.org. Open 08:00-15:30; closed Sat, Sun. Move One Relocations
Removal services for companies and individuals.QD‑5, Rr.
Ecole Viktor Hygo Myslym Shyri, tel. +355 4 225 81 03, www.moveoneinc.
QRr. Tre Vëllezërit Kondi, tel. +355 69 20 616 77, fax com. ; closed Sun, Sat.
+355 4 2371725, www.ecole-vhugo.com. Open 08:00-
17:00; Sat 08:00-15:00; closed Sun.
Banks
Memorial International School The only bank not charging up to 700 lek to use their ATMs
QRr. Pavarësia, tel. +355695294330, www.memorial. is Credins Bank. We love Credins Bank.
edupage.org/?. Open 08:00-16:00.
Alpha Credit Bank
Tirana International School QE/F‑3, Rr. e Kavajës, G-Kam Center, tel. +355 4 223 67
QKomuna Petrelë, tel. +355 4 236 5239, www.tirana. 10, www.alphabank.al.
qsi.org. Open 08:00-16:00.
BKT
World Academy of Tirana QG‑5, Blv. Zhan D’Ark, tel. +355 4 22 66 288, www.bkt.
QRr. e Rezervave, Lunder, tel. +355 69 6056 123, www. com.al.
wat.al. Open 08:00-16:00.
Credins Bank
QH‑4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, Nr.8, tel. +355 4 227 47 77/+355
www.inyourpocket.com 67 605 6284, www.bankacredins.com.
tirana.inyourpocket.com 2022 59
 Directory
Intesa Sanpaolo Bank
QI‑4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 27, tel. +355 4 227 60 00, www. media
intesasanpaolobank.al.
Albanian Daily News
OTP The news in dodgy English, since 1995.Qwww.
QH‑5, Twin Towers Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Kulla 1, albaniannews.com. Open 08:00-16:00; closed Sun,
Kati 9, tel. +355 68 401 21 21, www.otpbank.al. Open Sat.
08:00-15:00; Sat 08:00-13:00; closed Sun.
Euronews Albania
ProCredit Bank News from a European perspective, in English. Part
QI‑3, Rr. Dritan Hoxha, tel. +355 4 238 93 89, www. of the Euronews and NBC News brands.Qwww.
procreditbank.com.al. Open 08:00-17:00; Sat 08:00- euronews.al/en.
13:00; closed Sun.
Exit News
Raiffeisen Bank Independent and critical reporting in English about
QG‑5, Rr. Kavajes 44, tel. +355 4 238 13 81, www. news in Albania and the Western Balkans.Qwww.
raiffeisen.al. Open 08:30-15:30; Sat 09:00-12:30; closed exit.al/en.
Sun.
Tirana Times
Tirana Bank Local and international news and commentary in En-
QE‑3, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 4 227 77 00, www. glish.Qwww.tiranatimes.com. Open 08:00-16:00;
tiranabank.al. Open 08:00-15:00; closed Sun, Sat. closed Sun, Sat.

Union Bank
QH‑4, Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 238 91 11, www.
unionbank.al. Open 08:00-16:30; Sat 08:00-13:00; Notaries
closed Sun. Blerina Mustafaraj Notary
QBlv. Bajram Curri, tel. +355 69 403 69 64, www.
blerinamustafaraj.com. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-
Lawyers & Consultants 13:00; closed Sun.
Boga & Associates
QH‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 4 225 10 50, fax National Notary Room (Dhoma Kombe-
+355 4 225 1055, www.bogalaw.com. Open 08:30- tare e Notereve)
18:30; closed Sun, Sat. QRr. Nikolla Tupe nr.7, tel. +355 4 226 6242, www.
notariati.al.
Deloitte Albania
QF‑5, Rr. Kavajes, kompleksi Delijorgji, tel. +355 4 Robo Notary (Robo Noteri)
227 79 20, www.www2.deloitte.com/al/sq.html. Open QH‑4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 27/1, tel. +355 69 266 66 65.
08:30-17:30; closed Sat, Sun. Open 08:30-14:00;18:00-19:00; closed Sun, Sat.

Tonucci & Partners

QH‑4, Rr. Abdi Toptani, tel. +355 (0) 4 2250711, www. Translators
tonucci.com. Open 08:00-18:00; closed Sun, Sat. Ergyz Brezhani
QRr. Aleksander Moisiu, tel. +355 68 202 70 68, www.
ergysbezhani.com.

Language Solutions
QRr. Aleksander Moisiu, www.languagesolutions.al.

Meta Translations
QF‑5, Rr. George W. Bush, tel. +355 69 335 33 17, www.
meta-translations.com.

Government
ADISA (Agjencia e Ofrimit të Shërbimeve
Publike të Integruara)
QG‑4, Blv. Zhan d’ Ark, tel. 0800 0118, www.adisa.gov.
Statues at the National History Museum
al.
60 Tirana In Your Pocket

www.inyourpocket.com
Albanian Development Fund (Fondi
Shqiptar I Zhvillimit)
QH‑3, Rr. Sami Frashëri 10, tel. +355 (0)4 22 35 597/8,
www.albaniandf.org. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 08:00-
16:30; Fri 08:00-14:00; closed Sat, Sun.
Institute of Statistics (Instat)
QRr. Vllazën Huta, Ndërtesa 35, Hyrja 1, tel. +355 (4)
2233356, www.instat.gov.al. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu,
Fri 08:00-16:30; closed Sat, Sun.
Municipality of Tirana (Bashkia Tirane)
The mayor of Tirana since 2015 is Erion Veliaj (b. 1979).
QF‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej, Nd. 2, tel. 0800 0888, www.
tirana.al. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 07:00-18:00;
closed Sat, Sun.
Prime Minister’s Office (Kryeministria
(Albanian Goverment))
QH‑5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit 1, tel. +355 4 2277 369,
www.kryeministria.al. ; closed Sat, Sun.
Ministries
Ministry for Europe and Foreign Affairs
(Ministria per Evropen dhe Punet e Jas-
htme)
QBlv. Gjergj Fishta, 6, tel. +355 4 234 0358, www.
punetejashtme.gov.al. ; closed Sat, Sun.
Ministry of Agriculture and Rural
Development (Ministria e Bujqesise, dhe
Zhvillimit Rural)
QF‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej 2, tel. +355 4 222 6911, www.
bujqesia.gov.al.
Ministry of Culture (Ministria e Kul-
tures)
QRr. Aleksandër Moisiu, tel. +355 4 222 3077/+355 4
2222508, www.kultura.gov.al. ; closed Sat, Sun.
Ministry of Defence (Ministria e Mbro-
jtjes)
QF‑4, Rr. e Dibrës, tel. +355 4 222 8377, www.mod.gov.
al. ; closed Sun, Sat.
Ministry of Education & Sports (Minis-
tria e Arsimit dhe Sportit)
QE‑3, Rr. Durrësit 23, tel. +355 4 222 63 07, www.arsimi.
gov.al. ; closed Sun, Sat.
Ministry of Finances and Economy (Min-
istria e Financave dhe Ekonomise)
QF‑4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit 2, tel. +355 4 22811 133,
www.financa.gov.al. ; closed Sun, Sat.
tirana.inyourpocket.com
Directory
Ministry of Health and Social Protec-
tion (Ministria e Shëndetësisë dhe Mbro-
jtjes Sociale)
QG‑5, Rr. Kavajes, 25, tel. +355 4 237 6178, www.
shendetesia.gov.al. ; closed Sun, Sat.
Ministry of Infrastructure and Energy
(Ministria e Infrastruktures dhe Energ-
jise)
QRr. Abdi Toptani, tel. +355 4 222 2245, www.
infrastruktura.gov.al. ; closed Sat, Sun.
Ministry of Internal Affairs (Ministria e
Puneve te Brendshme)
QF‑4, Sheshi Skënderbej 3, tel. +355 4 800 9090,
www.moi.gov.al. ; closed Sun, Sat.
Ministry of Justice (Ministria e Drejte-
sise)
QF‑4, Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 2259 388, www.drejtesia.
gov.al. ; closed Sun, Sat.
Ministry of State proposals for the
protection of Entrepreneurship (Min-
istri i Shtetit për Mbrojtjen e Sipërmar-
rjes)
QRr. Deshmoret e 4 Shkurtit, nr.3, tel. +355 4 222
3455, www.sipermarrja.gov.al. ; closed Sat, Sun.
Ministry of Tourism and Environment
(Ministria e Turizmat, Kulture, Rinise
dhe Sporteve)
QE‑3/4, Rr. e Kavajës, tel. +355 4 222 4537, www.mkrs.
gov.al. ; closed Sun, Sat.
Business services
National Business Centre (Qendra
Kombëtare e Biznesit)
Business registration in Albania.QBlv Zhan D’Ark, tel.
+355 4 225 00 66, www.qkb.gov.al. Open 08:30-14:00;
Fri 08:30-13:30; closed Sun, Sat.
NGOs
AADF (Albanian American Development
Foundation)
QI‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 4 222 2408, www.
aadf.org.
EBRD (European Bank for Reconstruc-
tion and Development)
QH‑4/5, Rr. Abdi Toptani, Torre Drini, tel. +355 4 223
28 98, www.ebrd.com/home.
EMA (European Movement Albania)
QRr. Milto Tutulani, Nd.1, Ap. 4., tel. +355 44 104 247,
www.em-al.org.
2022 61
 Directory
EU Delegation (Delegation of the Euro-
pean Union to Albania)
QI/H‑5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, ABA Business Center, tel.
+355 4 222 83 20, www.eeas.europa.eu/delegations/
albania_en.
GIZ (German Society for International
Cooperation)
QE‑5, Rr. Asim Zeneli, Nd. 6/10, tel. +355 4 223 04 14,
www.giz.de/en/worldwide/294.html.
IMF (International Monetary Fund)
QG‑4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Twin Tower 1, tel.
+355 4 228 04 00/+355 69 208 8856., www.imf.org/en/
Countries/ResRep/ALB.
IOM (International Office for Migration)
QH‑4, Rr. Brigada VIII, Vila nr 3, tel. +335 4 22 5783 67,
www.albania.iom.int.
OSCE (Organization for Security and Co-
operation in Europe)
QJ‑5, Sheshi Italia ,Mak Albania Hotel, 1st Floor, tel.
+355 4 223 5993, www.osce.org.
Soros (Open Society Foundation for
Albania)
QE‑5/6, Rr. Qemal Stafa 120/1, tel. +355 4 223 46 21,
www.osfa.al.
UNDP (The United Nations Development
Programme)
QI/H‑5, Rr. Skenderbej, Gurten Building, 2nd Floor, tel.
+355 4 2250 205/+355 4 2250 234, www.al.undp.org.
UNFPA (United Nations Population Fund)
QF‑4, Rr. Skenderbe, UN House, 2nd floor, tel.
+35544500015, www.albania.unfpa.org/en.
UNHCR (United Nations High Commis-
sioner for Refugees)
QG/H‑4, Rr. Skenderbej, Volswagen Building, 2nd
Floor, tel. 355 4 2250205/+355 4 225 0284, www.unhcr.
org/albania.html.
UNICEF (United Nations International
Children’s Emergency Fund)
QF‑4, Rr. Skënderbej, tel. +355 4 4548409/+355 69 20
24 185, www.unicef.org/albania.
UN Women
QRr. Skenderbej, P. 8, 2nd floor, Ap. 29,30,31, tel. +355
4 450 2555, www.albania.unwomen.org.
USAID (U.S. Agency for International
Development.)
QH/G‑5/6, Rr. Elbasanit 103, tel. +355 4 224 72 85,
www.usaid.gov/albania.
62 Tirana In Your Pocket
WHO (World Health Organization)
QH‑5, Rr.Skenderbej, Gurten Building, No 6, tel. +45 45
33 70 00, www.euro.who.int.
Chambers of Commerce
American Chamber of Commerce
QH‑4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova 11/3, tel. +355 4 225 97 79,
www.amcham.com.al.
British Chamber of Commerce & Industry
QBlv. Petro Nini Luarasi 58, tel. +355 4 234 10 20, www.
abcci.com.
SWISSA Chamber of commerce
QStr. Ibrahim Rrugova, tel. +355 69 202 1421, www.
swissa.al.
Tirana Chamber of Commerce & Industry
(Dhoma e Tregtisë dhe Industrisë Tiranë)
QE‑3, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, tel. +355 4 580 0932,
www.cci.al.
Foreign representations
Gone are the days when you could simply rock up at your
representation for cognac and cigars with the ambassador
- they all want appointments in advance now.
Austria
QE/F‑2, Rr. Xibrakeve 4, tel. +355 4 227 48 55/+355 4 22
74 856, www.bmeia.gv.at. Open 09:00-12:00.
Brasil
QRr. Elbasanit, tel. +355 4 2258 226/+355 4 2258 227,
www.tirana.itamaraty.gov.br/pt-br.
Bulgaria
QE‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 12, tel. +355 4 223 3155/+355 4 22
32 906, www.mfa.bg/embassies/albania. Open 08:00-
15:00.
China
QE‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 57, tel. +355 4 223 23 85/+355
42253505, www.al.china-embassy.gov.cn. Open 08:30-
17:00.
Croatia
QF‑5, Rr. Gjeneral Nikols, 7th floor, tel. +355 4 225
6948/+355 4 23 11 110, www.mvep.gov.hr/al.
Czech Republic
QE‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 10, tel. +355 4 223 2117, www.
mzv.cz/tirana.
Denmark
QH/I‑4, Rr. Nikolla Tupe 1, Kati 4, Ap. 4, tel. +355 4 228
06 00, www.albanien.um.dk.
 Directory
Egypt
QE‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 1, tel. +355 4 223 30 22/+355 68
801 6200, www.egyptembassy.org/location/albania.

France
QE‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 14, tel. +355 4 238 9700, www.
al.ambafrance.org.

Germany The Kika 2 complex in Komuna e Parisit district

QE‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 8, tel. +355 4 227 45 05, www.
tirana.diplo.de. Qatar
QRr. Asim Zeneli, tel. +355 4 2274488/+355 4 2274579,
Greece www.tirana.embassy.qa.
QE/F‑2, Rr. Skenderbej, 88, tel. +355 4 227 4668/+3554
2234290, www.mfa.gr/tirana. Romania
QH‑5, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji 1, tel. +355 4 225 60 71.
Holy See (Vatican)
QD‑4, Rr. Durrësit 13, tel. +355 4 233516. Russia
QH‑5, Rr. Ukraina e lirë, tel. +355 4 225 60 40, www.
Hungary albania.mid.ru.
QE‑2, Rr. Xibrakëve 47., tel. +355 4 223 22 38, www.
tirana.mfa.gov.hu. Saudi Arabia
QD‑3, Rr. Viena, Kompleksi Xibraku Vila1, tel. +355 69
Iran 700 0007, www.mofa.gov.sa.
QH‑5, Rr. Mustafa Matohiti 20, tel. +355 4 2 254
621/+355 4 2 255 038, www.tirana.mfa.ir/en. Serbia
QH‑4, Rr. Ukraina e lirë9 /1, tel. +355 4 222 3042/+355 4
Israel 2232091, www.tirana.mfa.gov.rs.
QE‑3, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, EGT Tower, tel. +355 4450 85
02, www.embassies.gov.il/tirana. Slovenia
QI‑4, Rr. Abdyl Frasheri 11/1, EGT Tower, tel. +355 4 227
Italy 48 58/+355 69 40 81 999, www.tirana.embassy.si.
QH‑5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, 2, tel. +355 4 227 5900, Spain
www.ambtirana.esteri.it/ambasciata_tirana/it. QD‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 43, tel. +355 4 227 49 61/+355 4
227 49 60, www.exteriores.gob.es/embajadas/tirana.
Kosovo
QG‑4, Rr. Donika Kastrioti 6, tel. +355 4 226 16 50, Sweden
www.ambasada-ks.net/al. QH‑6, Rr. Pjetër Budi 56, tel. +355 4 238 06 50, www.
swedenabroad.se/tirana.
Kuwait
QRr. Durresit, Vila 134, tel. +355 4 22 36 800/+355 4 Switzerland
22 36 505, www.embassy-kuwait.com/kw/Kuwait-in- QH‑6, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, Nr. 3/1, tel. +355 4 223 48
Tirana. 88/+355 4 225 6535, www.eda.admin.ch/albania.

Montenegro Turkey
QG‑5, Rr. Abdi Toptani 8,, tel. +355 4 226 13 09/+35 5 QI‑6, Rr. Elbasanit 65, tel. +355 4 238 03 50, www.
69 6060 220. tirana.emb.mfa.gov.tr.

Netherlands Ukraine
QH‑5, Rr. Asim Zeneli 10, tel. +355 4 224 08 28, www. QRr. Ukraina e Lirë, tel. +355 4 450 55 35, www.albania.
mfa.nl/tir. mfa.gov.ua.

North Macedonia United Kingdom

QF‑2, Rr. Kavajës 116, tel. +3554 4 223 09 09/+355 42 QE‑2, Rr. Skënderbej 12, tel. +355 4 223 49 73, www.
274 765, www.mfa.gov.mk. gov.uk/government/world/albania.

Poland United States

QD‑2, Rr. Durrësit 123, tel. +355 4 223 41 90/+355 6 940 Visits by appointment only.QI‑6, Rr. Stavro Vinjau 14, tel.
22011, www.gov.pl/web/albania. +355 4 224 72 85, www.al.usembassy.gov.
tirana.inyourpocket.com 2022 63
street register
All Tirana streets below are prefexed ‘Rruga’ (Rr.);
boulevards are listed as ‘Blv’, squares as ‘Sheshi’.
4 Dëshmorët C-6
28 Nëntori F-4/5, E-5
Abdi Toptani F-4/5
Abdulla Keta D-5
Abdyl Frashëri I-3/4/5
Adem Kruja G-2
Ali Pashe Gucia C-5/6, D-6
Andon Zako Çajupi H-3
Asim Vokshi D-3/4
Asim Zeneli H-5/6
Bardhok Biba D-4
Barrikadave B/C-4, D-4/5
Beqir Luga E-6
Besim Imami F-2/3
Bilal Konxholli C-5/6
Blv. Bajram Curri H-1 to G-6
Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit Mustafa Lleshi G-6
F-4 to I-5
Blv. Gjergj Fishta H-1 to G-4
Blv. Zhan D’Ark G-5 to E-6
Blv. Zogu I C/D/E-4
Bogdani E-3
Brigada VIII H-3/4
Çamëria F-3/4
Çerçiz Topulli C-4, D-5
Ded Gjo Luli E-4
Dervish Hatixhe D/C-4
Dervish Hima I-5/6
Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit Pjetër Bogdani H-3/4
G/H/I/J-4
Dhimitër S. Shuteriqi J-1/2
Dibrës C/D-5, B5/6
Don Bosko B/C-2
Donika Kastrioti G/H-4
Dora D’Istria K/J-4
Durrësit D-2/3, E-3/4
Edit Durham E-2
Elbasanit G-5, H-5/6, I-6
Emin Duraku I-2, H-3
Fadil Rada I-2, H-3
Faik Konica I-6
Fatmir Haxhiu G-5
Frederik Shiroka F-1/2, E-2
Gjin Bue Shpata H/I-3
Gjin Kuqali I/J-3
Gjon Buzuku B/C-5
Gjon Muzaka E-2
Gjon Pali II G/H/I-5
Grigor Heba I-2, J-2/3
Hajdar Hidi E/F-3
Haki Mborja J-1
Halim Xhelo E-2
Haxhi Hysen Dalliu Sheshi Zogu i Zi C/D-2
D-3, C-3/4
Haxhi Sina C-6
Him Kolli F-3
Hoxhe Vokrri D-6
Hoxha Tahsim E/D-6
Ibrahim Dervishi I-1
Isa Boletini C/D-5
Islam Alla E/F/G-3
Ismail Qemali H-3/4/5
Jani Vreto E-5/6
Jeronim de Rada F-5
Jordan Misja A/B/C-3
Jul Varibova G-5
Justin Gadari E/F-2
Jusuf Vrioni I-2
K. Shijaku B/C-4
Kajo Karafili E-3/4
Kalaja e Tiranes F-5
Karl Gega B-4
Kavajës F-1/2/3, E-3/4
Komuna e Parisit H-2/3, I-2
Kont Urani E-3
Kristaq Mema D-2/3
Lek Dukagjini I-5, J-4
Lidhja Prizrenit I/J-4
Liman Kaba J-2/3, K-2
Luigj Gurakuqi E-4/5
Mahmut Fortuzi B/C-4
Maliq Muço D-4
Margarita Tutulani J-3/4
Medar Shtylla I/J/K-2
Mehmet Brocaj D-3
Mihal Duri E-3
Mihal Grameno G-6
Milto Tutulani I/J-3
Mine Peza C-2, D-2/3, E-3
Muhamet Gjollesha
D-1/2, E-1, F-1, G-1/2, H-2
Murat Toptani F-4/5
Musa Agolli B-5
Mustafa Matohiti G/H-5
Myrtezim Këlliçi E/F-5
Myslym Shyri G-2/3, F-3/4
Naim Frashëri E/F-2
Nasi Pavllo H/I-6
Nikolla Lena F-2
Nikolla Tupe I-3/4, H-4
Papa Kristo Negovani C-4
Perlat Rexhepi C-4
Petro Korçari I-1
Petro Nini Luarasi F-6
Pjetër Budi H-6
Prek Bibë Doda H-2
Presidenti George W. Bush
F-5
Prokop Myzeqari D-3
Qemal Guranjaku H-6
Qemal Stafa E-5, D-5/6
Ramzan Farka B-6
Reshit Çollaku F-4
Reshit Petrela B/C-4
Robert Shvare I-1
Sami Frashëri G-3 to J-4
Saraçëve D-5
Sermedin Said Toptani F-4
Shaqir Ofshafi C-5/6
Sheh Ahmet Pazari I-6
Shenasi Dishnica D/E-5
Sheshi 21 Dhjetori F-1
Sheshi Avni Rustemi E-5
Shesi Fan Noli E-5
Sheshi Italia I-5
Sheshi Nënë Tereza I-5
Sheshi Skënderbeg E/F-4
Shyqyr Bërxolli E/F-3
Shyqyr Ishmi F-6
Siri Kodra B-4
Skënder Kosturi B/C-4
Skënderbeg D/E/F-2
Stavro Vinjau H/I-6
Sulejman Delvina H-2, I-2/3
Sulejman Pasha D-3/4, E-4
Tafaj C-5/6
Tefta Tashko Koço E-6
Thanas Ziko B-5/6, C-6
Themistokli Gërmenji H-5/6
Thimi Mitko E-6
Unaza C-2/3/4
V. Karapici E-6
V. Luarasi C-4/5, D-5
Vaso Pasha G/H/I/J-4
Vëllezërit Manastiri D-2
Viktor Eftimiu H-1, I-1/2
Xhezmi Delli E-2
Xhorxhi Martini E/F-5
Ymer Kurti I/J-3
Zenel Baboçi D-5
 Communication
How to communicate in and beyond Tirana.
Express mail
The safest, though not the cheapest, way to send valuable
or urgent items.
Albanian Courier
QRr. Industriale Dytësore Vorë, tel. ++355 4 222
7667/+355 4 241 0720, www.albaniancourier.al. Open
08:30-17:30; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun.
DHL
QRr. Rruga industriale km 8. Kashar, tel. +355 4 240
6666, www.dhl.al. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 08:00-12:00;
closed Sun.
EMS
QRr. Frosina Plaku, Godina 36, K.1, tel. +355 68 206
67 70/+355 4 2455748, www.postashqiptare.al. Open
07:30-20:00; closed Sun.
FedEx
QF‑6, Rr. Industriale, Kashar, tel. +355 4 225 3203,
www.fedex.com/al /contact. Open 08:00-18:00; closed
Sun.
TNT
QRr. Mine Peza 2, tel. +355 4223 49 14, www.
tntexpress.al. Open 08:00-17:00; closed Sun.
UPS
QH‑4, Rr. Ismail Qemali, Nr. 32/1, tel. +355 4 225 97 43,
www.ups.com/al. Open 09:00-17:30; Sat 09:00-13:00;
closed Sun.
Exchange rates: €1=121 lek, $1=115 lek
telephone calls
For international calls, dial 00, the country code,
the area code and the subscriber’s number. For do-
mestic calls outside Tirana, dial 0, the city code and
the subscriber’s number. Call 14 for domestic dir-
ectory assistance. Local calls: Tirana numbers have
seven digits, all starting with a 2 or a 3. Call 124 for
international or 14 for domestic directory assistance.
To call Albania from abroad, dial 00 and the country
code 355, the city code (Tirana is 4) and subscriber
number, or the mobile phone number without the
initial zero. Selected Albanian city codes: Berat 32,
Durrës 52, Elbasan 54, Gjirokastër 84, Korça 82, Kruja
511, Sarandë 85, Shkodër 22, Tiranë 4, Vlorë 47.
66 Tirana In Your Pocket
internet
Wifi has conquered Albania quickly. All hotels and most
restaurants, cafés and bars have a network you can use
for free - the staff is usually happy to hand over the
password. Tirana Municipality has over 90 wifi hotpots
offering free and safe surfing, filtered for harmful con-
tent; look for Tirana Free Wifi along the main square
and boulevard, the market and the lake.
Internet providers
ABCom (ABCom- Vodafone Albania)
Broadband internet, data transmission, VPN, wifi, hosting,
e-mail solutions, digital cable TV and telephony services.
QRr. Pavaresia, Kashar 61, www.vodafone.al/abcom.
Open 09:00-21:00.
Abissnet
QRr. Ismail Qemali 18, tel. 355 4 430 00 01/+355 4 430
0123, www.abissnet.al. Open 09:00-20:00.
Tring
QRr. Qelqit, Kombinat, tel. +355 4 480 00 00/+355 69
403 80 00, www.tring.al.
Mobile phones
Albania has three mobile network providers, their numbers
starting with 067, 068 and 069. You can easily purchase pre-paid
SIM cards for around 600 lek at the providers’ shops; you’ll need
ID and a local address (which can be that of your hotel). Voda-
fone has a 1500 lek SIM package for tourists with 20GB data, 500
minutes of calling in Albanian and 10 minutes abroad. National
rates for pre-paid calls are between 30-55 lek per minute.
ALBtelecom
Qtel. +355 67 200 01 23, www.albtelecom.al.
One
Qtel. +355 4 227 5000/+355 68 800 0142, www.one.al.
Vodafone
Qtel. +355 4 228 30 72, www.vodafone.al.
Post
Postal rates for postcards and letters (under 20gr) are:
Albania 20 lek
Balkans 70 lek
Europe 90 lek
Elsewhere 100 lek
Central Post Office
Parcels are processed between 08:00-13:00.QF‑4, Rr. Reshit
Çollaku 4, tel. +355 68 204 47 27/+355 68 204 47 07, www.
postashqiptare.al. Open 08:00-16:30; Fri 08:00-14:00.
 pe to
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Bal

CONTACT US:
LANDWAYS
Address: “Rr. Themistokli
Germenji” Nr.10,
Po .Box 1430
Tirana, Albania
Tel +355 4 2 255 655

WWW.LANDWAYS.EU
 U N LO C K
ALBANIA

Airport office Downtown office

e-mail: klevis.bejleri@avis.al e-mail: genti.baboci@avis.al
tel: +355 67 60 12 272 tel: +355 67 60 38 900