Chapter-1

Course name: YM-I (Part A)

Course teacher: Tanvir Mahmud
(FE,ESE,TEM,DCE)

Tanvir Mahmud
Lecturer, Cell no: 01683389998
 Yarn Classification & Flowchart

Yarn: Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers produced by twisting,

suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving,
embroidery, and rope making.

Classification of yarn:

Types of yarn: Yarn can be classified according to,

1. Length of fiber.
Example: a) Spun yarn (short staple & Long staple)
b) Filament yarn (Monofilament & Multifilament)

2. No. of strand.
Example: a) Single yarn
b) Ply or Double yarn
Tanvir Mahmud
Lecturer, Cell no: 01683389998
 c) Cable yarn

Ply yarn: All yarns are single ply unless twisted with another yarn. Terms used are: 2
ply if two yarns are twisted together & 3 ply if three yarns are twisted. Plied yarns are
used to make yarn stronger. In the Jeans wear industry it has become important to ply
yarns in piece dyed fabrics that are intended to endure a long stone wash cycle.

Tanvir Mahmud
Lecturer, Cell no: 01683389998
Cable yarn: A cable yarn is made up of two or more smaller piled yarns twisted together. The easiest
cable yarn is a 4-ply.

3. Spinning system:
a) Ring yarn
b) Rotor yarn
c) Airjet yarn
d) Worsted yarn
e) Woolen yarn
4. Types of fiber blend:
Example: a) CVC (Chief Value of Cotton)
b) PC (Polyester Cotton)
a) CVC : A blended yarn having more percentages of cotton as compared to that of
polyester is called CVC yarn. For example: Cotton: Polyester= 70:30 or 60:40

Tanvir Mahmud
Lecturer, Cell no: 01683389998
 b) P/C : Yarn produced by blending of cotton and polyester fibers. The maximum part of
the yarn is polyester. i.e. The yarn has more than 50% Polyester fibers and the rest
portion is cotton.
5. Process sequence used as:
Example: a) Carded yarn
b) Combed yarn
6. Use of yarn
Example: a) Woven yarn (warp & weft)
b) Knit yarn

Process Flow Chart for Manufacturing of Carded Yarn

Input Process/Machine Output

Bale Management
↓
Raw cotton → Blowroom → Lap/Chute
↓
Lap/Chute → Carding → Card Sliver
↓
Card Sliver → 1st Draw Frame/ Breaker Draw Frame → Drawn Sliver
↓
Drawn Sliver → 2nd Draw Frame/ Finisher Draw Frame → Drawn Sliver
↓
Drawn Sliver → Simplex/Speed Frame/Roving Frame → Roving
↓
Roving → Ring Frame → Yarn (Cops Form)
↓

Yarn(Cops Yarn(Package
→ Winding M/C →
Form) Form)
↓
Yarn(Package) → Heat set → Yarn (Package)

Tanvir Mahmud
Lecturer, Cell no: 01683389998
 Process Flow Chart for Manufacturing of Ring Combed Yarn
Process/Machine Output
Input

Bale Management
↓
Fibre → Blowroom → Lap/Chute
↓
Lap/Chute → Carding → Card Sliver
↓

Pre-Comb Draw Frame/ Breaker Draw

Card Sliver → → Drawn Sliver
Frame
↓

Drawn Sliver → Lap Former → Lap

↓
Lap → Comber → Combed Sliver
↓
Post-Comb Draw Frame/ Finisher Draw
Combed Sliver → → Drawn Sliver
Frame
↓

Drawn Sliver → Simplex/Speed Frame/Roving Frame → Roving

↓
Roving → Ring Frame → Yarn (Cops Form)
↓

Yarn(Cops Yarn(Package
→ Winding M/C → Form)
Form)

Yarn (Package) → Heat set → Yarn (Package)

Tanvir Mahmud
Lecturer, Cell no: 01683389998
Lap: To change (cotton, wool etc.) into a compress layer or sheet.

Sliver: A strand of loose untwisted fibers produce in carding.

Roving: A collection of relatively fine fibrous strands used in the later or final processes of
preparation for spinning.

Ginning: The process of separating the seed from the cotton fiber is called Ginning. The
ideal Ginning is the separation without any damage of the fiber.

Lint: Raw cotton after Ginning is called Lint.

Linters: The short, fuzzy fibers still attached to the seed after Ginning is called Linters.

Importance of Raw cotton:

• Raw materials represents about 50-75% of the manufacturing cost of a short

staple yarn. This fact alone is sufficient to indicate the significance of the raw
material for the yarn producer.
• Raw materials accounts for about 80 to 90% of the yarn quality.

Cotton fiber growing countries: Egypt, USA, Pakistan, Ujbekistan, China, India, Australia

Tanvir Mahmud
Lecturer, Cell no: 01683389998
 Fiber Properties and Bale Management

The following properties of cotton fibers are considered:

1. Fiber fineness
2. Fiber length
3. Fiber length uniformity
4. Fiber strength
5. Fiber maturity
6. Fiber color
7. Fiber cleanness
8. Fiber elongation
9. Moisture

1. Fiber fineness:
Fineness is one of the most important parameter determining the yarn quality. Fineness
determines how many fibres are present in the cross section of yarn. Additional fiber in the
cross-section provided not only additional strength but also a better distribution in the yarn.
Minimum Thirty fibers are needed in the yarn cross section, but there are usually over 100.

Fiber Fineness Influences:

If fineness  then,
 Spinning limit 
 Yarn strength 
 Yarn evenness 
 Drape of the fabric 
 Lusture 
 Handle 
 Productivity 

Fineness is specified by Micronaire value (microgram/inch) for cotton. The fineness scale
is as follows:

Micronaire Fineness
Bellow 3.0 Very Fine
3.1-3.9 Fine
4.0-4.9 Medium
5.0-5.9 Coarse
Above 6.0 Very coarse

Tanvir Mahmud
Lecturer, Cell no: 01683389998
 2. Fiber length

Fibre length is one of the most important characteristics of cotton. It defines the
spinnability of the fibre.

If fiber length increase then,

Spinning limit 
 Yarn strength 
 Yarn evenness 
 Handle of the product 
 Lusture of the product 
 Yarn hairiness
 Productivity 
The following staple lengths of fibers are currently used in stating trade staple: Short
staple 1 inch or less 25mm or less
Medium staple 11/33-14/32 inch 26mm – 28mm
Long staple 15/32-112/32 inch 29mm -35mm
Extra-long staple 113/32 inch & above 36mm & above

3. Length Uniformity:

Length Uniformity is the indication of the distribution of fibre length within the
fibrogram. It describes how evenly the fibre length is distributed within a cotton
sample.

If length uniformity then,

Yarn irregularity 
Ends down 
High wastages in combing 
High fly liberation and m/c contamination in spinning, weaving and knitting

There are two popular measures of length uniformity in a cotton sample:

a. Uniformity ratio (UR)

b. Uniformity Index (UI)

Uniformity Ratio, UR

50% 𝑠𝑝𝑎𝑛 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ

=2.5% 𝑠𝑝𝑎𝑛 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ × 100

UR range is 75% -85%

𝑀𝐿
Uniformity Index, UI =𝑈𝐻𝑀𝐿 × 100
UI range is 40% -50%
Tanvir Mahmud
Lecturer, Cell no: 01683389998
 4. Fiber Strength:

Toughness of fiber has a direct effect on yarn and fabric strength.

If Fiber strength increased then yarn and fabric strength increased.
Very weak cottons tend to rupture during processing both in blow room and
carding so creating short fabrics and consequently decrease yarn strength
and uniformity.
 Minimum strength for textile fabric is approximately 6 cN/Tex (about 6 Km breaking
strength)
Some significant breaking strength of fiber is:

Polyester 35 – 60 cN/Tex
Cotton 15 – 40 cN/Tex
Wool 12 – 18 cN/Tex

In relation to cotton, the strength of fiber bundle is measured and stated as the
Pressley Index (PI) and PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch).

Breaking load in lbs

Pressley index (PI) =
Bundle wt. in mg

The following scale of PI value is used:

Below 70 Weak
70 – 74 Fairly strong
75 – 80 Medium strong
81 – 86 strong
87 – 92 Very strong
93 and above Excellent

5. Fiber maturity:

The maturity of cotton is defined in terms of the development of cell wall. A fully mature fiber
has a well developed thick cell wall. On the other hand, an immature fiber has a very thin cell
wall. The fiber is to be considered as mature fiber when the cell wall of the moisture swollen
fiber represents 50% -80% of the round cross section, as immature when it represents 30% -
45% and as dead when is represents less than 25%.

Immature fibers lead to:

Loss of yarn strength

Tanvir Mahmud
Lecturer, Cell no: 01683389998
 Neppiness (neps)
 Varying dyeability
High proportion of short fibers
 Processing difficulties mainly occurred at the card.
 Mature fiber lead to absorption of dye high, on the other hand, immature fiber lead
to absorption of dye low.

Maturity expressed as Maturity Ratio:

N-D
Maturity Ratio = + 0.7
200

Where, N = Normal (mature) fiber D

= Dead fiber
This equation is known as Lord’s equation.

The grading of maturity ratio is:

0.86 Good
1.75 Average
0.65 Poor

6. Color Grade
Color grade is the measure of the reflectance (Rd) and the yellowness (+b) of cotton fibres.
(Rd) expresses the whiteness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibres and (+b)
expresses the yellowness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibres.

Tanvir Mahmud
Lecturer, Cell no: 01683389998
 7. Fiber cleanness:

In addition to useable fibers, cotton stock contains foreign matter of various kinds:-
Vegetable matter:-
Husk portions
Seed fragments
Steam fragments
Leaf fragments
 Wood fragments

Mineral matter:-
Earth
Sand
Dust, coal

Other foreign matter:-

 Metal
Cloth fragments
 Packing material

8. Fiber elongation

Elongation is a measurement of the elastic behavior of the fibres in the bundle. The
extended length of fibres before they break is expressed as elongation percentage.

Less than 5% Very low

5% - 5.8% low
5.9% - 6.7% Medium
6.8% - 7.6% High
Above 7.6% Very high.

9. Moisture
Moisture is the percentage of water that is present in the sample. Moisture in the
cotton varies with time, temperature and humidity.

Moisture content Grade

Below 4.5 Very low
4.5-6.5 Low
6.5-8.0 Medium
8.0-10.0 High
10.0 and above Very high
Tanvir Mahmud
Lecturer, Cell no: 01683389998
Bale Management:
Testing, sorting and mixing bales according to the properties of fibre for producing
specific good quality of yarn at minimum cost is called Bale management.

Objects of bale management:

1. It has done to compensate for the variation in properties of the raw materials.
2. Used to control or reduce fabric barre.
3. It has done to provide the desired properties of the end product.
4. It’s done to reduce raw material cost.
5. It has done to achieve uniform yarn quality.
6. To achieve required quality of yarn.
7. Used to decrease shade variation of the finished fabric.

Procedure of bale management:

1) Sample collection from each bale.

2) Given ID no. on individual bale sample.

3) Conditioning the sample for standard M.R.%

4) Sample test by HVI (High Volume Instrument)

5) Input data in BIAS (Bale Inventory and Analysis System)

6) Prepared mixing plan

7) Prepared lay down plan.

Cost saving by bale management:

The following lists the cost saving possibilities:

➢ The required fiber properties and a controlled mix make possible the use of a cheap
raw material which suitably covers all requirements.
➢ The choice of correct raw material used together with a well control spinning
process, which result in less processing disturbance such as end breaks. This will
allow for higher processing speed and refer to reduction in manufacturing cost.

Tanvir Mahmud
Lecturer, Cell no: 01683389998
Mixing:
Mixing can be as combining of fibers together in some hap-hazard proportions so that
the resultant mixing cannot be predicted and not easily reproducible.

Minimization of Mixing cost:

Example:
If three cotton costing Tk. 70.00, Tk. 80.00, Tk. 90.00 per Kg are used in a mixing in the
proportion 20:25:55

Then average mixing cost =

= TK. 83.50/kg

If we use the fibers that cost is Tk. 90.00/Kg, then the cost will be higher. If we use the
fibers that cost is Tk. 70.00/Kg, Tk. 80.00/Kg, these will not fulfill the
requirements of buyer.
But if we use the average mixing, then these mixing fibers will fulfill all requirements of
buyer. So we can say by using mixing process we can minimize the cost of fibers.

Blending:
Blending can be defined as mingling of different varieties or grades to produce
certain flavor or quality. Therefore blending ratio can be predicted and easily
reproduced.

Importance of Blending:

i) Give the required characteristics to the end product (e.g.: PC, CVC)
ii) Compensate for variations in the characteristic of the raw material.
iii) Reduce raw material cost
iv) Improve processing performance such as reduced end break.
v) Achieve effect by varying color as fancy yarn (mélange yarn).

Types of Blending Operation and Process Stages:

Blending Type Process Stage

Bale blending before the blow room

Tanvir Mahmud
Lecturer, Cell no: 01683389998
 Flock blending within the blow room
Lap blending using doubling scutcher
Web blending at the ribbon lap M/c
Sliver blending at the draw frame, Comber
Fiber blending at Carding M/c.
Roving blending at the ring spinning M/c.

Difference between mixing and blending:

Mixing Sl. Blending

Combining of fiber in hap-hazard 01 Combining of fiber in
quantitatively proportion
Physical properties of resultant mixing 02 Physical properties of resultant
cannot be predicted. lending can be predicted.
Not easily reproducible 03 Easily reproducible
It is costly process 04 It is cheap process than mixing.
Example: 05 Example:
Low graded cotton + high graded 35% polyester + 65% cotton =
cotton = Mixing Blending

Tanvir Mahmud
Lecturer, Cell no: 01683389998