EISHA

IFFAN

UNIVERSITY: NEDUET
DEPARTMENT: Textile Sciences
INTERNSHIP PERIOD:
Feburary,2024
ARTISTIC FABRIC MILLS
INTRODUCTION: Artistic Fabric Mill is a denim manufacturing industry. Denim is manufactured by
the interlacement of dyed warp ends and white weft yarns. Denim manufacturing processes are different
from one used in home textile. It includes two methods of manufacturing.

METHOD 1 METHOD 2

1. Ball Warping 1. Slasher (Direct Warping),

2. Rope Dyeing 2. Slasher Dyeing,

3. Rebeaming 3. Sizing

4. Sizing 4. Weaving

5. Weaving 5. Finishing

6. Finishing

METHOD:1
BALL WARPING:
CREEL: In this process yarn packages (cones or cheese) are place on a rectangular shaped creel having
a creel capacity of 440. The creels are equipped with the following:

DISCS: STOP MOTION: CREEL GUIDE:

To control yarn tension. There
are 3 zones of tension. In zone 1
which is the back side of creel no
tension is applied as the yarn
It detects the yarn breaks and
follows a longer path. In zone 2 It guides the yarn
stops the machine
4g load is applied and in zone 3
6g load is applied to provide the
yarn tension. A tension meter is
used to check the actual yarn
tension.

WARPING MACHINE:
After the yarn passes through the guide it is the passed through the comb. Single end is passed through
the dents of the comb. For example, 350 cones were placed on the creel, so 350 ends are passed
individually from the comb. A red lease thread of polyester is used at the beginning and end and after
every specific length wound white leases are inserted in between. The ends were passed from 2 pulleys to
form a yarn rope. This rope contains equal no of ends as in the creel. The rope is then cross wound onto
ball. The length of the rope wound is 11430m. The ball is revolving by the contact with the 2-roller
connected to a motor. A guide is used to cross wound the rope on the ball.

Machine speed range: 300m/min to 700m/min

ROPE DYEING:
After ball warping, these balls are sent for rope dyeing. in this process the yarns in the form of rope is
dyed with the suitable dye (for e.g. indigo dye).

THE CREEL: The creel capacity is of 48 balls. It can be used as 24, 36 or 48 depending upon the lot. At
the time of observation there were 24 balls were in progress. The balls are free driven. 24 ropes were
simultaneously passed through the machine for dyeing.

DYEING MACHINE:
Pre-treatment
Dye
Box
Boxes
(3 Boxes,one For Drying
(9 Baths Post- Cylinders
Ropes Fingers Padder Bottoming, For Padder
of 3785 washers
Mercerization (36 Cans)
ltrs
And For Pre
capacity)
Wet)

Dye Fixation: The lava fix chemical.

Tension Control: Hanged weights.
Padder pressure: Air loading box

The main advantage of rope dyeing is that more yarns are dyed in lesser time as compared to slasher
hence productivity increases but it is more costly. After the completion of rope dyeing and drying, the
ropes are laid in the huge blue cans which are then transported for rebeaming process.

REBEAMING
DEFINATION: In this process the rope is converted into a yarn sheet, wound on a beam. A yarn sheet is
formed to facilitate the post process of sizing. a single beam is created from a single rope.

PROCESS FLOW: There were 2 such machine which had a dancing roller but the other rebeaming
machines were not equipped with the dancing roller.
Pulley Beam
Back roller Comb
Ring (Dancer (Yarn
Ropes(cans) (forward (Seperation
guide roller for sheet
movement) of ends)
tension) winding)

MACHINE MANUFACTURER: West Point Company

 SIZING
DEFINATION: the purpose of sizing is to provide the necessary yarn strength to withstand the cyclic
load on weaving and prevent the end breakages.

PROCESS FLOW: The beams from rebeaming are place on the sizing creel. 12 beams were placed.
Two size baths were used. The yarn sheets were combined, 6 sheets were passed through the first bath and
remaining 6 were passed through the second. All 12 sheets were combined and passed through the drying
cans and dried. The dried yarn sheet having 4000 ends was wound onto a beam.

METHOD:2
SLASHER WARPING
V-CREEL: The yarn packages were placed on the holders. the yarn is drawn from each package.
Creel Capacity:460 holders

WARPING MACHINE: The ends drawn from the creel were passed through the dents of comb (1 end
per dent) and is wound on the beam.

Machine Speed: 570rpm

Beam Length: 12250cm
SLASHER
(DYEING AND SIZING)
“Slasher is although cost saving but its production is lesser than rope dyeing”.

CREEL: Overhead creel is used. The beams can be arranged in groups of 10,12,14 beams depending on
the lot required. 14 beams were placed. Yarn sheet from all 14 beams were combine and enters the dyeing
and sizing machine.

PROCESS FLOW:

Pre- Pre- Pre- Dye

Creel Treatme drying washers Baths(10
Section nt zone section dye boxes)
(3 boxes)

Size Box Accumulator

Dry Dry Post-
cans (wax+binder+ Cans ( To store washers
starch) material)

A rapid sky is used after every dye bath which provides more for airing so that the dye oxides to give a
post bluer hue. As the bath is Alkaline, acetic acid or formic acid is used to neutralize the pH before post
washers. During sizing Refraction index and Viscosity of the sizing liquor is checked. The dried sized yarn
then wind on the beam called weavers’ beam. 6-7 ends are passed through single comb dents. The speed
of the machine is kept constant. At the sizing the padder pressure is varied to maintain a uniform pickup.

PRESSURE TEMPERATURE

• PRE-TREATMENT BOX :80PSI • Pre-Washer: 70-80'c

• PRE-WASHERS :70PSI • Post Washer: Hot-Cold Hot

DYES:
• Sulphur Dyes
• Indigo Dyes (Green Hue-Airing-Blue Hue); pH: 11.5-12.7
• Reactive Dyes
• Pigments
•
Three dyeing methods can be adopted depending on the customer requirement.

BOTTOMIN: Sulphur dyed -indigo dyed

TOPPIN SHADE: Indigo dyed-Sulphur dyed at post washers
SANDWITCH: Sulphur dye-indigo dye-Sulphur dye

SPECIFICATIONS:
Count Range: 30/s -6/s
Dye Box Capacity: 850ltrs

WEAVING
The final beams either from slasher or sizing (the rope method) are sent to the weaving department.
DEFINATION: Weaving is the interlacement of yarns.

TYPE OF WEAVE: For denim fabric different twill weave are used depending on the customer
requirement. twill can be left or right-handed.
Twills: 3/1, 2/1, 2/2, 4/1

TYPE OF LOOM: Rapier Loom

Machine Manufacturers:
1) ITEMA
2) PIC a NOL
ITEMA has a maximum working speed of about 650 rpm with the machine width of 220cm.

Running Looms:50

PROCESS TERMINOLOGIES:

Sarning: It is the process of entering the ends through the dents of the read. Multiple ends are passed
through the dents. According to the current loom card 4 ends were passed through one dent. It is done in
30min.
Full Sarning: It is done when there is a change in the weave design as the harness’s frames are changed.
Knotting: It is the process of knotting or joining the last ends of the empty beam to the ends of a full
beam. It requires 1-1.5 hrs. To complete.
Pick Ratio: It shows no of different weft yarns to be inserted. for e.g., 1:1, it shows that 2 different wefts
are used and are inserted alternatively 1 by 1.
Shedding: It is the lifting of warp yarns into groups and to provide a passage for weft insertion. Two types
of shedding are performed.

Taped shedding Dobby shedding

Manually operated Automatic and changesets can be made easily for
different weave designs

FINISHING PROCESSES

SEINGING:
In a singeing machine, the fabrics are exposed to direct flames or to the heated plates to burn the
protruding fibers. It is a mechanical treatment or finish to obtain a neat surface of the fabric which
facilitates uniform dyeing. There are two singeing machines here:

SEINGING MACHINE: 1
Input: Fabric from batcher
Output: Cloth collected on pallet
This machine includes both singeing and sanforizing process. In this machine, the fabric is heated by the
flames only from one side and the flame pressure is 10-15 mega bar. The machine works on the speed of
40-50 m/min. This machine consists of an over dye bath after singeing step, which is then steamed then
passed from 6 washers, the last one consists of softener, this is done to darken or deepen the depth of
shade which is required. It is then passed through Mahlo which has bow and inclined rollers which
straighten the fabric from weft direction and gives it width wise alignment.

SEINGING MACHINE: 2
Input: Greige fabric from weaving
Output: Fabric wound on batcher
This machine performs only singeing. Here the fabric is heated by the flames directed on both the sides of
the fabric. The intensity of the flame depends on the weight of fabric here which ranges from 8-13 oz. the
machine works on the speed of 60 m/min. the fabric and flame distance set here is the standard i.e., 20
mm.

MERCERIZATION:
Input: Fabric from batcher
Output: Fabric on batcher
Mercerization is a process in which fabric is treated with caustic solution (NaOH) to improve/increase the
properties of fabric that are absorption of dye (dye affinity), luster and here the fabric can also be desized
or neutralized. The caustic actually rearranges the cellulose molecules in the fiber to produce these
changes.
Fabric from the batcher is first steamed by the rollers, passed over a tank for over dye, then into the
caustic baths where it is treated with NaOH, then the fabric is washed by 6 washers among which the last
box contains formic acid or acetic acid (for white fabric) for neutralization. The capacity of the wash
boxes is 800L, here cold wash is done at 30°C and hot wash at 60°C. The mercerized and neutralized
fabric is then dried by the drying cans and then wound on the batcher to be transferred to the next
subsequent process.

STENTER MACHINE:
The tasks of the stenter are that it heats sets the fabric, sets the fabric width by weft control and dries the
fabric completely.
No. of chambers: 6, 8, or 10
No. of Circulation fans:16
No. of burners:8
The temperature of all the chambers is mostly same (150°C) and can be go high up to 185°C. The fabric
is first wet before entering the chambers in the padder which consists of either just water or some
chemicals too. Before the chambers a chain of clips is present from which the fabric is passed which grips
the fabric from the selvedges. The chambers consist of 2 spindles (it pulls the fabric), 2 burners and 4
circulation fans. 2 circulation fans each on one side i.e., left or right circulate the heat provided by the
burner placed at its opposite side and vice versa. The circulation is kept 90% and the width of the finished
fabric here has width less than the width set on the machine. Width is set here in cm.
Stenter also provides two types of coating on the fabric which gives the fabric a new look. These are as
follows:

Gaston coating Knife coating

It is an automatic machine here. It has two panels
and its chemical has air mixed in it. Here the coat is
applied in the form of foam which absorbs into the
fabric. It can coat both sides of the fabric at a time
or just one too.
It is a manual machine here. This is more expensive
and sustainable. It has plates which coat a layer of
paste on the fabric. This coating allows air passage
through the fabric. It can coat only one side of the
fabric at a time

PANTEK MACHINE:
Here the fabric is softened by smashing in the fabric. Here width of the fabric cannot be controlled. After
passing through it, it goes to the last finishing step.

SANFORIZATION:
Input: Fabric from batcher
Output: Fabric on the pallet
This is the last step of the finishing process and is done in the singeing machine 1. Sanforizing is the
process which increases the dimensional stability of the fabric when washing, or to prevent the fabrics
from shrinking during washing. Basically, warp wise shrinkage of the fabric is controlled here using a
rubber roller. After sanforization, the fabric is sent for inspection.

INSPECTION:
Inspection is essential to confirming that the fabric satisfies quality standards and specifications after the
finishing process. This is an explanation of the inspection procedure that follows the finishing procedure:
• Once the finishing process is complete, check the shade here first using the lab's dimensional
stability data to ensure it meets buyer standards.
• Secondly check the diameter with a white fabric weight or GSM.
• Third, examine the fabric's surface or appearance in relation to the buyer's STD.
 • Each length of fabric is checked and any fault occurring is marked using a 4-point system.
• Make a report.
• Ready for delivery if all goes well.
• If not, determine the issue.
• In the event that there is a weaving defect, notify the weaving department via mail or job card and
request a replacement piece of cloth.
• If the fabric is defective in dyeing and we confirm that it can be reprocessed, we send the job card
to the dyeing department for correction. If not, we reject the fabric and notify the dyeing
department to replace the rejected quantity.

TYPES OF FAULTS

WEAVING FAULTS:
ELECTRICAL
YARN FAULTS SIZING FAULTS MACHINE FAULTS
FAULTS

 Short slub
 Stop marks
 Thick warp
 Loose warp  White mark
 Yarn mark
 Tight warp  Cut pick
 Yarn batta  Let off
 Hard size  Weft loose
 Thick weft
 Fiber ball  Wrapping mark
 Neps
 Let off
 Splice

PRODUCTION FAULTS:

 Short warp
 Double warp
 Wrong warp
 Wrong drawing
 Rubbing end
 Miss pick
 Double pick