Submitted to: Submitted by:

Dr. Ashvani Goyal Chaitanya Chaudhary

Assistant Professor (12TT016)
Kunal Bansal
(12TT036)
 Worsted refers to a yarn spun from parallel fibers that have been combed to
remove shorter bits and spun with a short draw to keep the fibers in their
parallel alignment.
 Worsted yarns have more twist inserted which makes them a firmer,
stronger yarn. This in turn makes worsted fabrics stronger than woollens
These Worsted Spin Yarns have some Special Characteristics from
Woolen yarns

Woolen Yarn Worsted Yarn

• Have a short staple (1 - 4 inch long • Have a long staple length (4 inch
fibers) fibers and longer only)
• Are carded • Are carded and combed
• Have a slack twist • Have a tight twist in spinning
• Are weaker • Are stronger
• Are coarser • Are finer, smoother
• Are bulkier • have more even fibers
• Are softer • Are harder
The scouring process of greasy wool includes the following stages
 Pre-opening, by means of a bale plucker.
 Fore baled material, or rough opening, by means of an automatic
feeder, when fleeces have already been opened or when fibres are
loosened, rough blending of fibres in special blending boxes.
 Opening and beating.
 Scouring, in special scouring vats
 Pre-drying in the drier
 Opening and reblending,
 Final drying,
 Opening and final reblending
 The water is homogeneously eliminated from the fibre mass (Figure
106) starting with a first drying (pre-drying) stage .The partially dried
mass is then conveyed to a conveyor belt and exposed to the action of
automatic feeder, which blends again the layer of fibres fed. The wool is
then further dried (final drying) in the second dryer.

Wool is not allowed to dry completely,12-16% moisture left over.

Pre-drying
In a three-module dryer, the temperatures in the three
different zones can be the following:
• approx. 80 °C in the first module,
• approx. 120 °C in the second module
• approx. 70 °C in the third module,
and the dwelling time of the wool inside the dryer should be about 90
seconds

Final Drying
The final dryer is similar to the previous one but includes two modules
where temperatures can
be:
• approx. 45 °C in the first module,
• approx. 65 °C in the second one.
The dwelling time of the wool inside the dryer can be approx. 80 seconds
 The wool leaving the opener-beater undergoes the so-called oiling.
process, which lubricates the fibres by spraying on them an oily
emulsion soluble in cold water.
 The oil can be used alone or combined with another liquid featuring
anti-static characteristics; in this case, the emulsion could be the
following:
• 20 - 25 % oil,
• 10 - 15 % anti-static product,
• 70 - 60 % water
to be sprayed on the wool (2- 3 % of the weight of the material to be
oiled).
 Operation is intended to disentangle the fibers and lay them as parallel
as possible.
 The fibres are passed between rollers covered with fine wire teeth.
Since worsted yarns should be smooth, the fibers are made to lie as
parallel as this process will permit
Functions of Carding
 opening of individual fibre
 elimination of impurities & dust
 removing of neps
 fiber orientation
 sliver formation
 The gilling process removes the shorter staple and straightens the
longer fibers.
 Gilling is carried out before (preparative gilling) and after (finisher
gilling) combing.
 The preparative gilling is mainly to align the fibers in a parallel
direction, further blend the wool through doubling and to add
moisture and lubricants.
 Finisher gilling is mainly aimed to remove the mild entanglement
introduced to the combed sliver.
Combing operation :
 Removes the shorter fibers of 1 to 4 inch (25 – 100 mm) lengths (called
combing noils).
 Places the longer fibers (called tops) as parallel as possible.
 Further cleans the fibers by removing any remaining loose impurities.

Combing noils are futher used for

ordinary & less expensive fabrics and
tops (longer Fibres) for manufacturing
owrsted fabrics as gabardine, whip
cord & convey & produce fabrics with
good color ,feel and strength.
 Roving is actually a light twisting
operation to hold the thin
slubbers intact.
 The fiber passes between the
roller, over the coarse wire teeth
of the first card clothing & over
progressively finer toothed card
clothing.
 The fibre that leaves the machine
are in the form of untwisted
ropes called “ROVING”.
 In the spinning operation, the wool roving is drawn out and twisted
into yarn. There are two main methods used to produce woolen-spun
yarns. These are:
 Ring spinning
 Mule spinning

Mule-spun yarns generally are superior to ring-spun yarns but they

tend to be much more expensive due to the slow production rates
and high labor input.

Worsted yarns are spun on any kind of spinning machine – mule,

ring, cap, or flyer.
The two principle systems of spinning worsted yarns are the English system
and the French system :

 In the English system (Bradford), the fiber is oiled before combing, and a
tight twist is inserted. This produces smoother and finer yarns. The more
tightly twisted yarn makes stronger, more durable fabrics.
 In the French system, no oil is used. The yarn is given no twist; it is
fuzzier, and therefore suitable for soft worsted yarns.