UNIT 5 Instructor’s Guide to Accompany Carpentry, Third Canadian Edition

CARPENTRY CANADIAN 3RD

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Unit 5 Hand Tools

Unit Objectives

After completing this unit, the student should be able to:

 Identify and describe the hand tools that are commonly used by the carpenter.
 Use each of the hand tools in a safe and appropriate manner.
 Sharpen and maintain hand tools in suitable working condition.

Key Terms
Bevel—The sloping edge or side of a piece for which the angle formed by the slope is not
a right angle.
Counterbore—Boring a larger hole partway through the stock so that the head of a
fastener can be recessed.
Dado—A cut partway through and across the grain of lumber.
Groove—A cut partway through and running with the grain of lumber.
Heel—The back end of objects, such as a handsaw or hand plane.
Keen—The quality of a sharpened edge.
Level—Perfectly horizontal or perpendicular to the force of gravity.
Mitre—The cutting of the end of a piece at any angle other than a right angle.
Mitre joint—A corner joint formed between two pieces of material, by cutting bevels of
equal angles at the ends of each piece.
Plumb— Perfectly vertical; at right angles to level.
Rabbet—A cutout along the edge or end of lumber.

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Scribe—Mark or score wood with a pointed instrument as a guide to cut and fit against
an irregular surface.
Toe—The forward end of tools, such as a handsaw and hand plane.
Whet—The sharpening of a tool on a sharpening stone by rubbing the tool on the stone.

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 Instructor’s Guide to Accompany Carpentry, Third Canadian Edition

Chapter 11 Layout Tools

*Teaching Throughout this chapter, make sure students understand the

Tip importance of following all safety procedures. Have students explain
what could happen if safety procedures are not followed. Tools on
hand to pass around the class is imperative.

A. Measuring Tools
1. Pocket tapes are painted steel ribbons wound around a spool
with a spring inside.
Slides 11-2 to
11-6 2. Imperial pocket tapes are divided into feet, inches, and sixteenths
of an inch and come in a variety of lengths. Common
graduations and markings are shared by most pocket tape
manufacturers.
3. Metric pocket tapes are divided into metres, centimetres, and
millimetres and come in lengths up to 10 m.
4. Steel tapes have quick markings to indicate 12, 16, 19.2 and 24
inch for framing layouts.
5. Steel tapes of 50 and 100 foot (15 and 30 m) lengths are used to
lay out longer measurements. Look at the back of long tapes for
accuracy adjustments required for use on hot and cold days.

*Teaching Using a tape measure, make sure students know how to divide an inch
Tip into sixteenths of an inch. This is a great time to practise fractions and
reducing to the common denominator.

B. Squares
1. Combination squares have a movable blade, 1″ wide and 12″
long, which slides along the body of the square.
Slides 11-7 to
11-14 2. Combination squares are used to lay out 45- and 90-degree
angles as well as being used as marking gauges to lay out lines
parallel to the materials edge. Handy for layout like trim reveal
and backsets.
3. A speed square is a triangular square used to lay out 90-degree
and 45-degree angles.
4. The speed squares degree scale allows for angle layout as well as
the scales for common and hip/valley rafter layout.
5. The try square has a steel blade fastened to a solid handle at 90
degrees; it is used to confirm “squareness” of members and
joints and used to align blades on portable and stationary power
tools.
6. A framing square, often called the steel or rafter square, is an L-
shaped tool made of thin steel or aluminum.
7. The framing square has two legs, the longer leg is 2 inches wide
and 24 inches long and is called the blade or body; the shorter

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leg is 1½ inches wide and 16 inches long and is called the

tongue. There is typically one table on each side of the tongue
and body (4 tables).
8. The outer corner of the framing square is called the heel.
9. Most framing squares have rafter, board feet, brace, and octagon
(eight-sided) scales stamped into the square faces.
10. On one side of the framing square, the inner side is graduated in
1/8ths and the outer side into 1/16ths; on the opposite side, the
outer side is graduated in 1/12ths, one inner side graduates in
1/16ths, and the other inner side graduates in 1/10ths.
11. The sliding T-bevel is sometimes called a bevel square or a
bevel. It consists of a body and a sliding blade.
12. The sliding T-bevel can be turned and locked to any angle to
transfer layout lines onto stock or for setting the angles on saws.

*Teaching Using one or more of the squares, make sure students understand how
Tip to read the information on the various squares. Although the calculator
has made the tables on the framing square less of a necessity, knowing
how to use them will make for faster on-site calculations.

C. Straightedges
1. Can be made of metal or wood, and can have any thickness,
width, or length.
Slides 11-15 to
11-16 2. Useful for laying out straight lines from two given points.

D. Trammel Points
1. Used to draw circles or parts of a circle called arcs that may be
too large for a compass.
Slides 11-17 to
11-18 2. Can be clamped to a strip of wood any distance apart according
to the desired radius of the circle or arc to be laid out.

*Teaching Levels used to be referred to as spirit levels. Watch for compounding

Tip errors when using levels. If a 4-foot level is indicating an 8-foot wall is
¼ inch out of plumb, the wall is actually out of plumb by ½ inch.
Dropping a plumb bob into a bucket of water will speed up operation
and help on windy days.

E. Levels
1. In construction, the term level indicates that which is horizontal,
and plumb indicates that which is vertical.
Slides 11-20 to
11-24 2. A carpenter’s level is used to test level and plumb surfaces.
3. The air bubble in a slightly crowned tube must be exactly
centred between the lines marked on the tube.
4. Levels are made of wood, plastic, and metal (usually aluminum).
5. Box and I-beam are the common types of body construction.
6. Levels come in various lengths; 2-, 4-, and 6-foot levels are
most common.

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7. Torpedo levels are 6 inches (150 mm) in length and used for
tight places.
8. To check a level, first place it level and mark a line; then rotate
the level 180 degrees and position on the marked line to ensure
the bubble is in the same location as the first reading.
9. A line level consists of one glass tube encased in a metal sleeve
with hooks on each end and hung from a line stretched from
point to point in which a level line is required.
10. Plumb bobs are very accurate and used frequently for testing and
establishing plumb lines.
11. Plumb bobs are available in different weights.
12. Plumb bobs are attached to a line and suspended vertically to
transfer a point up or down; limited only by the length of line.

F. Chalk Lines
1. A line coated with chalk dust is stretched tightly between two
points and snapped against the surface.
Slides 11-25 to
11-26 2. The chalk comes in a variety of colours; the colours are
determined according to staining.
3. When the line is snapped, the dust leaves a mark on the surface.
4. Ensure the line is taut before snapping it; press down on the
centre of the line for long distances and snap both sides.

G. Wing Dividers
1. Can be used as a compass to lay out circles and arcs and as
dividers to space off equal distance.
Slides 11-27 to
11-28 2. This tool is often called a compass or scriber.

H. Butt Markers
1. Available in three sizes.
2. Often used to mark hinge gains.
Slide 11-29
3. The marker is positioned and struck with a hammer to outline
the cutout of the gain.

*Teaching The more hand tools you can demonstrate, and that your students can
Tip handle, the better their understanding will be. Shoot a variety of short
videos for your class to review in their spare time.

Summary
Layout tools include tools for measuring; levelling; achieving plumb;
drawing straight edges, circles, and arcs; and marking off areas.
Slide 11-30
Measuring tapes require the carpenter to read a measurement in feet
and inches. Squares can be useful for making straightedges and angles.
Levels are used to make sure horizontal surfaces are level. Chalk lines
can be used to mark straight lines against surfaces. Wing dividers can
serve as a compass. Butt markers are often used to mark hinge gains.

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Chapter 12 Boring and Cutting Tools

*Teaching Any boring tools and bits that students can see and handle will aid in
Tip their understanding.

Slide 12-2 A. Boring Tools

1. Boring denotes cutting large holes in wood.
2. Bit braces used to be used to hold and turn auger bits to bore holes
in wood.

*Teaching Reinforce all safety procedures as you go through this chapter. Reinforce
Tip the importance of keeping all tools sharp and in good working condition.

B. Bit Braces
1. Auger bits are available with coarse- or fine-feed screws.
2. Bits with coarse-feed screws are for fast boring in rough work.
Slides 12-3 to
12-4 3. Fine-feed bits are for slower boring in finish work.
4. As the bit turns, the feed’s screw pulls the bit through the wood,
the spurs score the outer circle of the hole, and the cutting lips lift
the chips up through the twist bit.
5. A set of auger bits ranges in size from ¼ to 1 inch (6 to 25 mm)
and is graduated in 1/16-inch (2 mm) increments.
6. The bit size is designated by a number; the #12 bit has 12
sixteenths, it will bore a ¾ inch (19 mm) diameter hole.
7. Expansive bits are over 1 inch (25 mm) in diameter, with two
interchangeable and adjustable cutters for boring large holes.
8. To avoid splintering, stop once the centre drill passes through the
surface and finish the boring process from the opposite side.

*Teaching Demonstrating these tools, or allowing students to practise with them,

Tip will bring a higher level of understanding of the information covered.
Have the class pay attention to the entrance and exit holes in wood metal
and masonry when drilling, noting what precautions need to be taken for
safety and project appearance.

C. Drills
1. Twist drills range in sizes from 1/16 to ½ inch (1 to 13 mm) in
diameter and graduate in increments of 1/64 inch (1 mm).
Slides 12-5 to
12-8 2. High-speed twist bits are made of hardened steel to drill into
various metals.
3. High speeds are used when drilling in wood, and low speeds are
used when drilling into steel; cutting oils can be used to cool the
bit and keep it sharper for a longer period. HHS bits are durable,
cost less, and are able to be sharpened.

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4. Brad point bits are used for greater precision when drilling into
wood products.
5. The countersink may be turned in a power drill; it forms a recess
for the screw head so it sits flush with the surface.
6. Combination drills are used to drill shank and pilot holes for
screws and countersink in one operation.

D. Cutting Tools
1. A wood chisel is used to cut recesses in wood.
2. Chisels are sized according to the width of the blade, and are
Slides 12-9 to
12-15 available in widths of 1/8 to 2 inches (3 to 51 mm)
3. Firmer chisels have long, thick blades and are used on heavy
framing.
4. Butt chisels are short, with a thinner blade, and are preferred for
finish work, perfect for door hinges and hardware.
5. When using chisels, always ensure both hands are behind the
cutting edge.
6. Always shield the chisels when not in use, or ensure the cutting
edge is pointing upward when placed down on a surface so you
don’t knock off the sharp edge.
7. Bench planes are used for smoothing rough services and bringing
work down to the desired size.
8. Bench planes are given names according to their lengths; starting
from the longest to the shortest is the #7 jointer plane, #6 fore
plane, #5 jack plane, and the #4 smooth plane.
9. Other less commonly used bench planes are the rabbet/bullnose
plane and the compass plane.
10. Block planes are small hand-held planes used to smooth the edges
of short pieces and end grain for making fine joints.
11. Block planes are designed as low-angle, general-purpose block
planes, and high-angle block planes for cutting end grain.
12. Block planes do not have a double iron like bench planes.
13. Always plane with the grain, and have the stock securely held
against a stop.
14. When starting, push forward and apply pressure downward on the
toe (front). When the heel (back) clears the end, apply pressure
downward on both ends. When the opposite end is approached,
relax pressure on the toe and continue pressure on the heel until
the cut is complete.

E. Sharpening Chisels and Plane Irons

1. Sharpen (called whetting) using an oilstone or waterstone.
2. Grinding is necessary only when the bevel has lost its concave
Slides 12-16 to
12-18 shape (called hollow grind) by repeated whettings.
3. The width of the bevel is twice the thickness of the blade
(approximately 25 degrees).
4. Only re-grind when absolutely necessary due to major damage.

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5. When grinding, prevent overheating the end of the chisel and

turning the steel blue/purple. This will soften the steel.
6. Using water or oil stones to maintain your chisels is a skill that
should be mastered. Remember to remove any shipping oils or
coatings from new chisels prior to stone whetting.

F. Snips
1. Used to cut straight lines on thin metal.
2. Aviation snips have three colours to identify their cuts: the yellow
Slide 12-19
handle is for straight cuts, the green handle is for curves to the
right, and the red handle is for cutting to the left.

G. Knives
1. An OLFA or utility knife is used for sharpening pencils and
performing laying out, as well as cutting gypsum board and
Slides 12-20 to
12-21 softboards.
2. Special hook blades can be purchased for cutting shingles.

H. Scrapers
1. Used for removing paint, dried glue, pencil, crayon, and other
marks.
Slides 12-22
2. Small pieces of spring steel called cabinet scrapers are used to
smooth face end or edge grains.
3. Cabinet scrapers are given a burnished edge, via a burnisher (see
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32642&cat=1,3
10,41070).
4. Blades are reversible, removable, and replaceable; they can be
easily sharpened by passing a file on the bevelled edge against the
cutting edge.

*Teaching Demonstrating the various saws in action and passing the various saws
Tip around the class will aid in student understanding.

I. Hand Saws
1. Each saw a carpenter uses is designed for a specific purpose.
2. Handsaws used to cut across the grain are called crosscut saws;
Slides 12-23 to
12-25 they have teeth shaped like knives (more teeth than a ripsaw).
3. Handsaws used to cut with the grain are called ripsaws; they have
teeth shaped like rows of tiny chisels (less teeth than a crosscut
saw).
4. A shark tooth saw has longer teeth and is able to cut in both
directions of blade travel (aka Japanese teeth).
5. The teeth are set (bent) to make the saw kerf wide enough to give
clearance for the saw body.
6. The saws are determined by the number of points per inch; a
greater number of points gives a finer cut.

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7. Stock is sawed with the face side up because the back side
splinters out.
8. Saw cut is made on the waste side of the layout line.

J. Special-Purpose Saws
1. Compass saws are used to make circular cuts in wood.
2. Keyhole saws are similar to the compass saw except that the blade
Slides 12-26 to
12-31 is narrower for making curved cuts of smaller diameter.
3. A coping saw is used to cut moulding to make coped joints, and to
make any small or irregular curved cuts in wood or other soft
materials.
4. A hacksaw is used to saw metal; the blades are available with 18,
24, and 32 points per inch (25 mm).
5. Hacksaw blades should be installed with the teeth facing away
from the handle.
6. The wallboard saw is similar to the compass saw but is designed
for gypsum board; the point is sharpened to make self-starting
cuts.
7. The Japanese-style pullsaw cuts on the up (pull) stroke instead of
the down stroke; some models cut in both directions.
8. The pullsaw cuts fast and smooth with a thin kerf; the pulling
action draws the blade straight, allowing for much straighter cuts.
9. A backsaw is any handsaw that has a stiffening rib on the edge
opposite the cutting edge, allowing for better control and more
precise cutting than with other types of saws.
10. Backsaws are normally 20 to 30 inches (600 to 900 mm) in length
and used for precise work, such as cutting dovetails, mitres, or
tenons.
11. The mitre box is used to cut angles of various degrees on finish
lumber, by swinging the saw to the desired angle.

*Teaching As you finish this chapter, have students explain to you which cutting tool
Tip they would use for particular applications.

Summary
Boring tools, bits, and drills are used to make holes and fasten screws.
Slide 12-32 Several cutting tools are available to the carpenter. These tools include
planers, chisels, snips, knives, hatchets, scrapers, and saws. Each job requires
a specific tool, and each tool must be used with safety in mind.

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 Instructor’s Guide to Accompany Carpentry, Third Canadian Edition

Chapter 13 Fastening and Dismantling Tools

*Teaching Demonstrate how to use a hammer correctly and emphasize why

Tip goggles are important. The key to using a hammer effectively is
practice. Set up a station where the students can comfortably practise
driving nails.

A. Hammers
1. A claw hammer is available in a number of styles and weights.
2. The claw may be straight or curved.
Slides 13-2 to
13-4 3. Head weights range from 7 to 32 ounces (198 to 907 g).
4. The hammer heads are smooth or serrated into a waffle surface;
the waffle surface keeps the head from slipping off the nail.
5. Hammer handles vary in styles, material, and lengths; they may
be made of wood, various metals (e.g., steel, titanium), or
fibreglass.
6. Framing hammers are used for rough work; heads weigh from
20 to 32 ounces (567 to 907 g) have a straight claw, and
generally have longer handles.
7. New to the industry are titanium and mig-welded steel
hammers. These hammers weigh between 14 and 15 ounces
(397 to 425 g) and are quickly replacing the 20- to 24-ounce
(567 to 680 g) hammer commonly associated with rough
carpentry (see www.finehomebuilding.com/Tool-
Guide/Product-Finder/Hammers-and-
Nailsets/65426.aspx?channel=1).
8. Finishing hammers are used for fine work; heads weigh from 7
to 20 ounces (198 to 567 g) and generally have short handles.

B. Nail Sets
1. Used to set nails below the surface.
2. Common sizes are 1⁄32, 2⁄32, and 3⁄32 inch (0.8, 1.6, and 2.4 mm).
Slide 13-5
3. The ¼-inch (6.4 mm) set is used to drive large-head nails.
4. The surface of the set is concave to prevent it from slipping off
the nail head.

C. Nailing Techniques
1. Hold the hammer firmly, close to the end of the handle, and hit
the nail squarely.
Slides 13-6 to
13-11 2. The entire arm and shoulder are used to swing the hammer.
3. End-nailing is driving the nails at the end of the stock.
4. Toe-nailing is driving nails at a 30-degree angle.
5. Face-nailing is driving a nail into the surface.

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6. Hold the nail tightly with the thumb and as many fingers as
possible while driving the nail into hardwood; it helps to
prevent the nail from bending.
7. Blunting or cutting off the end of the nail helps prevent
splitting; the blunt end of the nail rips its way through the stock
instead of spreading the fibres apart.
8. Pre-drill. Cut the head of the nail off. Insert the cut nail into a
drill and use the cut nail as a drill bit. This bit won’t break and
will always be the perfect pilot-hole size.
9. Stagger nails from end to end to prevent splitting and increase
holding power (see NBCC 9.23.3.3, Prevention of Splitting).

D. Hatchets
1. Hatchets have a head, a straight blade, and a nail-pulling slot on
one end.
Slide 13-12
2. The half-hatchet is used for sharpening stakes, concrete form
work, and rough framing.
3. The wallboard hatchet, which has a convex head and ringed
face, is for nailing and dimpling drywall.
4. The shingle hatchet is for splitting and nailing wood shingles
and shakes.

E. Staplers
1. The heavy-duty staple gun is used for fastening building paper,
housewrap, and vapour barrier.
Slide 13-13
2. The strike tacker is used to fasten floor underlayment to the
subfloor using divergent (legs flare out) staples.

F. Screwdrivers
1. Manufactured to fit specific types and sizes of the recesses
found in screw heads.
Slides 13-14 to
13-20 2. The length of the blade and handle together range from 3 to 12
inches (76 to 305 mm).
3. Today’s handles have ergonomic shapes and a cushioned feel to
help reduce fatigue.
4. The drivers are coded by number and colour.
5. Common screwdrivers are the Robertson and the Phillips.
6. Others include the slotted screwdriver and the Torx.

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 Instructor’s Guide to Accompany Carpentry, Third Canadian Edition

Robertson® Screwdriver and Colour-Coded Screw Table

Colour Screwdriver # Screw Number Screw

Lengths
Orange 00 1,2 ¼″–7/8″ (6–22
mm)
Yellow 0 3,4 ¼″–1½″ (6–38
mm)
3
Green 1 5,6,7 /8″–3″ (9.5–76
mm)
3
Red 2 8,9,10 /8″ –4″ (9.5–
102 mm)
Black 3 12,14 ½″–6″ (12–
152 mm)
Black 4 16,18,20,24 ¾″–6″ (19–
152 mm)
H. Screwdriver Bits
1. Screwdriver bits are available in all the different shapes and
sizes required to fit any screw on the market.
2. Designed to drive a screw using a drill or screw gun.

I. Screwdriving Techniques
1. Select screws so that two-thirds of their length penetrates the
piece they are gripping.
Slides 13-21 to
13-23 2. A pilot hole and a shank hole should be drilled prior to driving
the screw.
3. If the material to be fastened is thick, the screw may be set
below the surface by counterboring.

J. Dismantling Tools
1. Used to take down scaffolding, concrete forms, and other
temporary structures.
Slides 13-24 to
13-28 2. Also used for tearing out sections of a building when
remodelling.
3. Hammers are used for pulling nails to dismantle parts; place a
small block of wood under the hammer head to increase
leverage.
4. The wrecking bar is used to withdraw spikes and to pry when
dismantling parts of a structure.
5. Wrecking bars are available in lengths from 12 to 36 inches
(300 to 900 mm).
6. Small flat bars are used to pry small work and pull small nails.
7. A nail claw (cat’s paw) is used to extract nails that have been
driven flush with the wood surface.

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 Instructor’s Guide to Accompany Carpentry, Third Canadian Edition

K. Holding Tools
1. The adjustable wrench is used to turn nuts, lag screws, bolts,
and other objects.
Slides 13-29 to
13-31 2. For extracting, turning and holding objects, a pair of pliers or
the combination pliers (channel locks) is used.
3. Clamps come in a variety of styles and sizes, and are used to
hold objects temporarily in place while fastening.
4. Spring clamps are quick and easy to set; they have spring-
loaded jaws.
5. C-clamps are named for their shape; the size is designated by
the throat opening.
6. Quick clamps are named for their speed; one side is stationary
and the other side slides on the bar.
7. The wood screw (parallel clamp) is made of wood blocks and
large screws; it is primarily used for gluing up wood pieces.

*Teaching Tell the class to use wrecking bars rather than hammers to remove
Tip lumber and nails. The wrecking bar has a longer handle that will
require much less effort to use. This will save their hammers and
backs!

This is a perfect time to re-introduce the class to the seven simple

machines and why they work. The seven simple machines usually
include the lever, wheel and axle, pulley (or block and tackle), inclined
plane, wedge, and screw. Work smarter! Not harder! Remind the
students that leverage is their friend!

“Give me a place to stand and with a lever I will move the whole
world.” –Archimedes

Summary
Fastening and dismantling tools include a variety of hammers and
screwdrivers. For dismantling, the wrecking bar, adjustable wrench,
Slide 13-32
combination pliers, and clamps are also used.

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