Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Laurent Boillot
Guerlain President and CEO
Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain
place de l’étoile
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soft complexions
and evening scents complexion, was regarded as a must-have by fashionable society
and gained him immediate success. Women delicately reddened
their lips with Extrait de Roses pour
At the same time as being a talented perfumer, les lèvres, whose lasting finish was a key
Pierre‑François‑Pascal sold skincare products imported from selling point, and by Roselip, the first solid
England, like Gowland’s Lotion for whitening the skin and created make-up that came in a delightful little
sophisticated lotions, make-up and skincare products made porcelaine de Paris jar. Personal hygiene
from natural raw materials for his customers. His boutique stocked products were also in vogue, like those for
Blanc de Perles for whitening the skin, alongside a surprising refreshing the breath of habitual smokers
cream that contained liquefied bear fat. Fashionable women or preventing hair loss, or again the Baume
also flocked to his shop to buy Cold Cream of Roses, which de la Ferté, with its high tannin content
protected the skin against harsh weather conditions, Ambrosial from Bordeaux wine, which was created
Cream and the more unexpected Crème de roses aux limaçons, in 1830 to soothe the breasts of wet-nurses. This balm has
which contained snails. However, he also did not neglect the art undergone a remarkable metamorphosis over the course of
of cosmetics. The Poudre de Lys, which guaranteed an alabaster its life, because it is now sold as a remedy for dry, chapped lips.
Baume de la Ferté
small pewter pot.
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Bottom: During the XIX, the cream jars were made in porcelaine of Sèvres or Paris.
Opposite: Watercolour by Christian Bérard for the of Champs-Élysées Institute (1939).
.
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imperial
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the secret of this ancient product by an Armenian pasha who had He did not know then that, ten years later, he would use this
studied the material in Persia. The discovery of new fragrances accord in one of the finest perfumes in the world: Mitsouko.
falls within the perfume creator’s purview. Using scents found In 1851, Napoleon III was crowned Emperor of France. He wanted
deep in the heart of far-off lands, the perfumer works like an to rebuild Paris and commissioned Baron Haussmann to carry
alchemist to blend ingredients which, at first out the work, while Empress Eugénie promoted the luxury
glance, seem fairly unattractive. This was industries and took a special interest in Guerlain’s creations.
the case with oak moss, which captivated In 1853, Pierre-François-Pascal dedicated the famous
Pierre-François-Pascal. The perfumer paid Eau de Cologne Impériale to her, which is still sold today
homage to it by creating, in 1840, the first in its fine bee bottle with the green label. This homage
chypre fragrance, simply named Chypre. to the Empress’s beauty earned Guerlain’s founder
Naturally, the ingredient was presented in a the much envied title of His Majesty’s Official Perfumer.
somewhat diluted form, but its success spurred him to compose The Empress’s influence also encouraged the advent of
another scent called Cyprisime, in 1854. Jacques ventured the first couture houses. Worth was the first couturier
down this path too, creating Chypre de Paris around 1909. to use live models to show his dresses at Court.
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european scents
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age-old certainties for exciting new horizons. The people The new fragrances were perfectly in keeping with the times:
who ventured into the Moulin Rouge wore L’Eau de Cologne Mouchoir de Monsieur, Voilette de Madame, Bon Vieux Temps,
du Coq, Colette scribbled and dared to cut her hair short, Liu, Muguet, and Rue de la Paix. There were also regular new
Marguerite Long practised her scales, and Marie Curie was hard additions to the beauty catalogue. One of the most prominent
at work. In every domain, women were becoming liberated products, in 1895, was the Crème Huvé de la Providence, which
and being seen in a new light, as Jicky had predicted. claimed to have hydrating properties that protected against the
damaging effects of the sun. However, the creation of
The industrial revolution drastically changed people’s attitudes and skincare products entered the modern era with
generated incredible inventions: wireless telegraphy, the telephone, a vengeance with the cream, Secret de Bonne
the cinema. Strange flying machines began their conquest of the Femme, perhaps the first product to promise
skies; Paul Valéry wrote about dance and Bergson about laughter. complete hydration. Whipped by hand to create
its ultra-light texture, this innovative cream,
With Pierre running the business and Jacques created in 1904, remained on the shelves until the
taking care of creation, their work continued 1990s. Shortly after that, in 1906, Jacques launched Après l’Ondée,
during this frenetic creative period. a graceful, innocent fragrance. The scents of damp undergrowth
hinted at À l’ombre des Jeunes filles en fleur, published 12 years
later by Marcel Proust and which won him the Prix Goncourt.
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Different articles
published in worldwide
magazines in 1903
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The Great War was over and France had changed a great deal.
Everyone was learning to live and let live. Anything was possible
in a world where all the barriers had come down, although
boundless possibilities brought uncertainty in their wake.
Everyone wanted to live life to the full and forget the past.
The face of Paris changed. Electricity lit up the avenues, which
were dominated by cars, like the Panhard or Dedion‑Bouton;
women with gay abandon bared… their ankles and, thanks
to Paul Poiret, abandoned their corsets and laces. American advertising for L’Heure Bleue (1927)
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In no time at all, Coco Chanel became the arbiter of female In those wild years, Guerlain endeavoured to restore women’s
elegance in Paris and raised hems to above the knee. charm and appeal after they had embraced simplicity to excess
The long dress was now only worn for special occasions. and seemed to have laid down all the weapons in their armoury.
Advertising, sport and aviation were discovered. Life was The railway was ultra-fashionable. The Simplon-Orient‑Express
exciting and the parties glittered as brightly as the dresses. and the Trans-Siberian railroad fuelled dreams. Puccini had
a triumphant success with Tosca and La Bohême, but Japan became
the cultural Mecca. It was hardly surprising then that Jacques
Guerlain called his new creation Mitsouko, after the heroine
The wrapping for the soap Mitsouko.
of the novel La Bataille, by his friend, writer Claude Farrère.
Mitsouko, a magical blend of chypre and fruity notes, was a
fragrance whose concise formula, in the words of Jean‑Paul
Guerlain, “possesses the ideal secret of a woman’s skin”.
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Robert Schumann
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Tapestry designed by
Christian Bérard for
Champs-Élysées Beauty
Institut (1939). Watercolour of Pollock published in the Illustration magazine,
cocktail for the opening of the Champs-Élysées Institute (1939).
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to be or not to be?
When the last bullets had whistled over the roofs of Paris, when
the American troops had marched down the Champs-Elysées, and
when Paul Valéry had written “We civilisations know now that we
are mortal”, people began to smile again and to believe in peace.
The GIs queued up outside the Guerlain boutique on
the Champs-Elysées so that they could take a little piece
of Paris back with them to Michigan or Illinois.
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It was in this stimulating climate of new ideas that Jacques Guerlain Achieving flawless beauty became the leading subject
created Dawamesk, a perfume as stylish as the songs of Gréco in women’s magazines. The Emulsion d’Ambroisie, which
or Prévert. French fashion was still leading the way. Jacques Fath claimed to protect the skin’s elasticity and kept its promises,
and Rochas invented women as flowers, while Dior stunned came in a surprising lidded pharmacy jar-type bottle. In
the world with his new look. Women discovered nylon stockings make‑up, the powder Visage de Nuée lost no time in winning
and delighted in a femininity that was synonymous with gaiety over women who wanted a flawless complexion, especially
and a tasteful eroticism. The hydrating cream, Crémaliment, as wearing hats had gradually fallen out of fashion in favour
devised in 1940, achieved new success. Its light texture, of leaving coquettishly pin-curled hair uncovered. The slim,
combined with its extremely hydrating and nourishing properties, elongated bottle for Fleur de Feu was highly prized, while
made it very popular with women who were discovering the world was stunned by the unique voice of Maria Callas
the benefits of balneotherapy in spas. and amazed by the productions of the Ballets de Béjart.
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new wave
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Sketch of an
advertisement refillable mascara with an innovative formula. The skincare
for make up
(1960s) products also reflected this keen interest in make‑up. The Base
de Maquillage Hydratante hydrated and protected the skin,
while Matfilm provided even coverage without causing dryness.
However, perfume continued to be the company’s flagship
product. The new fragrances came thick and fast and were
highly successful. In 1965, Jean-Paul Guerlain created Habit Rouge
whose name conjured up the world of horse-riding, a favourite
pastime of the Guerlain family. They all rode, particularly Jean-Paul
Guerlain. He took part in the World Dressage Championships
in 1974 and continued to indulge his passion in Les Mesnuls.
and began to act in a way that some thought provocative. It was hardly surprising then that this second men’s fragrance
Guerlain invented its own make‑up codes in conjunction with should be closely connected with this sport. Habit Rouge
fashion trends, having never entered the world of haute couture is a perfume for men hunting for love, a masculine Shalimar
and ready-to-wear: the company had never deviated from the due to the strong vanilla content. This period saw men walking
founders’ philosophy: “We make what we know how to make, on the moon for the first time; technology was supplanting
and we sell what we make.” Every year, therefore, four collections mankind and advertising became a force to be reckoned with.
were designed and marketed. Eyeshadows were now available
as duos instead of single shades. Make-up was now changeable
and unpredictable and could be adapted to suit every woman’s
style. Eyeliner promising huge eyes became a best-seller. The
thin, precise line drawn around the contour of the eye, known
as the “doe-eye” look, became very popular with the fashion
conscious and young “debs”. Guerlain’s sophistication could
also be seen in the eyeshadows, which boasted an ultra‑light
texture, even though the shades were sometimes very bold.
Eyes were revolutionised in 1967: Guerlain rounded off its
range of eye products with the launch of Golden Cilpen, a
Advertisement for
« Habit Rouge Dry » (1969).
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liberated and more womanly than ever before. textures, subtle perfume,
The idea of freedom was also found in the skincare luxurious packaging in an attractive dark blue glass bottle with
products. The tinted creams of the Ultra-Sport a gold lid designed by Robert Granai–everything combined to
line, whose light brown packaging suggested make issima Guerlain’s premium brand. Another skincare product,
the colour of suntanned skin after a weekend aquasérum, was launched in 1987 and in the space of several
at the seaside, were a favourite among young years became Guerlain’s best-selling skincare
Bottle of women from the moment they were launched. product. Its technical performance, combined
Nahema (1979).
with elegant, practical packaging, made this
After the joyful anarchy of the 1970s, the 1980s loomed darker: moisturiser a must‑have for dry skins. In the
the oil crisis, escalating unemployment, and the appearance years that followed, its formula was continuously
of a virus that was to cause terrible losses. Refusing to give in redeveloped. Also, in 1983, Jean-Paul Guerlain
to depression, women became “fighters”, declaring loud and clear: continued his work as a perfumer with Jardins
“where there is a will, there is a way”. Women no longer wore de Bagatelle, an extraordinary bouquet of
cosmetics merely to improve their looks, they expected them white flowers, as lively as a “bagatelle”, a short
to treat and repair damage. Anything to stay young! In the new musical fantasy. It came in a beautiful bottle
factory opened in Chartres in 1973 and exclusively dedicated to draped with pleats recalling a nymph’s shoulder.
skincare products and make-up, Laboratoires Guerlain identified
free radicals, the main causes of ageing.
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For Guerlain, the 1980s were all about daring and In 1986, Rouge Bicolore overturned the concept of
make‑up. In 1984, the brand that had been in existence for the lipstick invented by Guerlain in 1870. As its name implied,
over 150 years, invented and launched the first make-up the Rouge Bicolore was two identical or complementary
that could be taken anywhere, applied in no time at all and shades in one. One was matt, the other glossy. The idea
gave a healthy sunless glow. The launch of Terracotta took was to give women a marvellous lipstick in a golden
the brand to new heights. It was not just a success, it was case that symbolised the brand’s creative daring.
a commercial landslide. Number one in the USA and in Europe,
the Terracotta line captivated and influenced other brands. But what about the men? Jean-Paul Guerlain also spared some
thought for the men who had watched women come to the fore
The 1980s were truly ground-breaking for Guerlain in the in every field over the past twenty years. To these men who
make-up sector. At the same time as Terracotta, a completely might have lost their self confidence at times, he dedicated Derby,
original “new look” powder was created by Guerlain in 1987. a “brutal yet highly civilised” fragrance with a woody, spicy leather
This was Météorites, a totally revolutionary loose powder. note over an attractive hint of carnation. Appealing to a select
A beautiful case, inspired by a powder compact belonging few, Derby is now showcased at the Guerlain boutiques.
to Catherine de Medici, contained a precise number of
small multi‑coloured beads, carefully chosen to correct or
enhance the wearer’s complexion. Pink gave a healthy glow,
green reduced redness, gold brightened the complexion, etc.
Météorites achieved worldwide success, particularly in Asia.
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As visionary as ever, Guerlain quickly realised that women’s point in the history of Guerlain, because the company, with
behaviour was about to change. The end of the decade saw a century and half of creations under its belt, left the family
the start of what was to be called “cocooning”. Women left fold and joined LVMH, the leading luxury group in the world.
the gym clubs in favour of new-age relaxation. The Orient, This ushered in a new era of committed creativity.
a source of wisdom, was in vogue. And it was in the pursuit of
spirituality that, in 1989, Jean-Paul Guerlain created Samsara In 1996, Champs-Élysées celebrated Guerlain’s roots by
for the woman in his life. This perfume had an unusual and paying homage to what has been called the most beautiful
unexpected olfactory structure whose main elements combined avenue in the world. This luminous, sparkling floral perfume,
a flower–jasmine, with a wood–sandalwood. Two precious an elegant fragrance reconciling past and future, was created
materials from India, where Jean-Paul Guerlain had built a factory by Olivier Cresp and
to distil jasmine, until then only used in religious ceremonies. Sylvaine Delacourte. It paid
“As the new millennium dawns, woman is reborn–in Guerlain”, tribute to the Parisian chic
was the advertising slogan, created by Jacques Séguéla. and radiant beauty embodied
by Sophie Marceau, its new
In 1992, which also saw the appearance of Héritage, a new man muse. Jean-Paul Guerlain
who symbolised Guerlain’s core values, the laboratories focused was now dividing his time
mainly on damaged skins and worked to restore their vulnerable between creating perfumes
balance. The Odélys line, which had six products, was developed and running his ylang‑ylang
with the best natural plant and mineral ingredients. plantation in the Comoro
Could heaven be created on earth? Joy and Islands. He created Coriolan
love could, in 1993, if it was left up to as a galaxy of fragrances
Jean‑Paul Guerlain who, a few months later, for men. Several months
celebrated being a grandfather by creating later, to bring the millennium
Petit Guerlain for his grandchildren to a fragrant close, Jean‑Paul
in the brand new perfume factory at Guerlain revealed his emotion
Orphin, near Rambouillet, which was at the blossoming of
unveiled at a large party in June 1994. the cherry trees in Japan.
This date also marked a turning
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excellence
At the same time as the issima line, Guerlain
developed a line of whitening skincare products
designed exclusively for Asian women. Some
170 years after the Blanc de Perles for whitening
the skin, Whitening Care was the fruit of many
years of research and met the needs of women who
wanted a light, exceptionally radiant complexion. This creation
assured Guerlain’s primacy in Asian countries that were
Crème Régénératrice issima designed by Robert Granai.
experiencing great economic growth, and led to considerable
brand awareness. In 1998, Guerlain consolidated its expertise
and launched Whitening Process, followed, in 2000, by a line
at the cutting‑edge of technology: Issima Perfect White.
This skincare range, boasting seven products, protected and
brightened the skin, while preserving Guerlain’s glamorous
image and know-how. Formulas, textures and
Cherry Blossom was initially exclusively targeted at packaging set their sights on the attainment
Japanese women, then sold in all Asian countries. of excellence. In 1991, make-up was golden.
Beautiful cases, lightweight powders, blushers
Skincare products still came under the aegis of the issima line. with ultra‑light textures. L’Or de Guerlain was
From 1997, Guerlain’s skincare research turned up a string in keeping with the Guerlain spirit that combined
of technological innovations. Numerous patent applications expertise with an indispensable aura of glamour.
were filed, linked to important discoveries with regard to
the structure of the skin, such as the dermoepidermic junction,
the dermomuscular junction, etc. These led to some spectacular
and daring advances in the field of skincare, a line of research
wholeheartedly supported by the LVMH research laboratories. Top: Bottle of Blanc de Perles for whitening the skin.
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The new Aqua Allegoria eaux de toilette 2008: Figue-Iris, Laurier-Réglisse. L’Instant de Guerlain created by Sylvaine Delacourte and Maurice Roucel.
Guerlain started the millennium with determination, creativity and while participating in certain projects. Talented external
faith in the future. A book called Enfance, Enfance, published for perfumers with a proven track record assisted with creation
UNICEF, ushered in the 21st century. The profits went to children under the leadership of Sylvaine Delacourte, Fragrance Creation
who were not fortunate enough to share in the hopes heralded Director. It was Maurice Roucel and Sylvaine Delacourte who,
by the new millennium. In 1999, the Aqua Allegoria perfumes, in 2003, created L’Instant de Guerlain, a radiant sensual skin
whose creation gave the brand a new lease of life, won great perfume with strong notes of magnolia. This new fragrance
popularity with young women because of their freshness and introduced a new olfactory family, that of Crystalline Ambers,
spontaneity. Every year, these natural colognes acquire two new and was inspired by those rare moments of unsettling chemistry
fragrances: Pamplelune, Herba Fresca, Grosellina, etc. The most between a man and a woman. The love story continued in
recent, Figue-Iris and Laurier-Réglisse, will appear in 2008. 2004 with the creation of L’Instant de Guerlain pour Homme.
This fragrance, which is cool and bright, yet warm and sensual,
In 2002, at his request, Jean-Paul Guerlain became the was devised by Béatrice Piquet and Sylvaine Delacourte, and
President’s consultant for the quality of natural raw materials, immediately won admirers among a younger generation of men.
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a resplendent future
In 2005, the skincare range, that had continued to grow with
Super Aqua-Serum and its new line of five face and body
products, had more surprises in store. Since its foundation,
Guerlain had always shown a special affection for nature–the
natural world that provides an abundance of raw materials
favoured by the brand’s creations: rose, iris,
hawthorn, lily, peony, cocoa bean, blue
Atlas cedar, etc. right up to the orchid
used in the marvellous Orchidée
Impériale, the flagship skincare
product resulting from Guerlain’s
research in 2006. Orchidée
Impériale was remarkable for
its use of the roots of a flower
known for its longevity and its tenacity,
Jar of Success Future designed
since it thrives where nothing else by Hélène Courtaigne
The gold ribbon designed by Maxime d’Angeac (Maison Guerlain Champs-Élysées 2005).
Delalande (2007).
will grow. This luxurious cream,
Guerlain’s most recent market leader to
date, quickly gave birth to a new line with the addition
Today there are 7 Guerlain boutiques in the world: 2 in of an eye and lip cream. A “booster” serum and other products
Canada, 1 in Tokyo, 3 in the USA, 1 in Moscow. They create with ambitious claims are already planned for 2008.
desire through limited editions of old perfumes or recent In 2007, the creation of the Success Future line again
creations, eaux de parfum whith precious raw materials, bore witness to Guerlain’s creative energy.
unique cristal bottles or bottles decorated with stones. Hélène Courtaigne Delalande, a talented goldsmith,
Entering one of the boutiques is discovering and living what was responsible for the blue and gold containers with
Baudelaire called: “Luxury, calm and sensual pleasure”. their dark blue seal embossed with the double G.
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A C
Ambrosial Cream before 1840 Candide Effluve 1922
Après l’Ondée 1906 Chamade 1969
Aqua Allegoria 1999 Champs-Elysées 1996
Aquasérum 1987 Chant d’Arômes 1962
Chypre before 1840
B Chypre de Paris 1909
Crémaliment 1940
The new mascara 2 designed by Helle Damkjaer (2008). Bain cosmétique Crème acide PH5,5 1955
Base de maquillage hydratante Crème à la fraise 1840
1960 Crème au citron 1930
spellbound. L’Instant Magic, created in 2007 by Randa Hammami Baume de le Ferté 1830 Crème Camphora 1870
and Sylvaine Delacourte, is as much a story as a floral, woody Belle France 1892 Crème de Concombres 1830
perfume. The thrill of an encounter with perfume, the feeling of Blanc de Perles before 1872 Crème de roses aux limaçons
fulfilment that comes from experiencing a moment of true magic. Bon Vieux Temps 1902 1830
Bouquet de l’Impératrice 1853 Crème Huvé de la Providence
What is in store for 2008? A wide variety of new Bouquet de Faunes 1922 before 1850
creations and innovations that will surprise and delight, Bouquet du jardin du roi Crème Supernourrissante N°2
perhaps to the extent of becoming future icons. before 1830 1952
Terracotta dons the continental colours, Le 2 de Guerlain Bouquet du roi d’Angleterre Cold cream of roses 1830
gives eyes a 3D look, Super Aqua-Sérum works even harder, 1828 Coque d’Or 1937
complexions are radiant and clear with the new Perfect White Bouquet Napoléon 1853 Cyprisine 1894
line, two new Aqua Allegoria colognes will celebrate the arrival Bouquet Princesse
of spring and a new men’s fragrance will be revealed… Amélie de Furstemberg
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D G L O
Dawanesk 1945 Golden Cilpen 1967 Lait de concombres 1830 Ode 1955
Derby 1985 Graisse d’ours liquéfiée 1828 Lait d’iris 1830 Odélys 1993
Djedi 1925 Guerlain’s Scarlet 1937 Laurier-Réglisse 2008
Guerlilas 1930 Le 2 de Guerlain 2008 P
E L’Heure Bleue 1912
H L’Instant de Guerlain 2003 Pamplelune 1999
Eau de Cologne du Coq 1894 L’Instant de Guerlain Parfum des rois before 1830
Eau de Cologne Impériale 1853 Habit Rouge 1965 pour Homme 2004 Parfum Impérial 1853
Eau de Cologne Russe Héritage 1992 Liu 1929 Parure 1975
before 1850 Huile contre le soleil et L’Or de Guerlain 1991 Pâte d’amande au miel 1834
Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat 1830 les taches de rousseur 1931 Lotion de Gowland 1828 Petit Guerlain 1994
Eau de Guerlain 1974 Huile pour brunir au soleil 1931 Lynx 1922 Poudre aux Ballons 1918
Emulsion d’Ambroisie 1951 Hydrosérum 1955 Poudre C’est Moi 1925
Esprit de fleurs 1828 M Poudre de lys 1830
Evolution 1986 J Pour Troubler 1911
Extrait de roses 1830 Matfilm 1963 Pyrommée 1840
Jardins de Bagatelle 1983 Météorites 1987
F Jasmin 1906 Mi-Mai 1914 Q
Jicky 1889 Mitsouko 1919
Figue-Iris 2008 Mouchoir de Monsieur 1904 Quand vient l’été 1910
Fleurs d’Italie av 1840 K Muguet 1840
Fleur de Feu 1948
Kisskiss 2005 N
Nahema 1979
Ne m’oubliez pas 1870
Nouveau Rouge 1934
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R V
Roselip 1840 Vague Souvenir 1912
Rose Lip Bengale 1918 Vega 1936
Rouge Automatique 1936 Vetiver 1959
Rouge Bicolore 1987 Vetiver Extrême 2007
Rouge d’enfer 1924 Visage de Nuée 1947
Rouge G 1956 Voilette de Madame 1904
Rue de la Paix 1908 Vol de Nuit 1933
S U
Samsara 1989 Ultra Sport 1982
Sapoceti 1830
Secret de Bonne Femme 1904 W
Senteur des Champs 1828
Serkis des Sultanes 1840 Whitening Care 1992
Shalimar 1925 Whitening Process 1998
Skine 1885 Perfect White 2005
Sous le Vent 1933
Success Future 2008
Super Aqua-Sérum 2005
T
Teint doré par le soleil 1931
Terracotta 1984
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Guerlain Archives
Pages : 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23,
24, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 37, 39, 40, 42, 43, 44, 45, 47, 48,
50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 57 (en bas), 58, 60, 64, 65 (en haut), 62
Air Paris : page 67
Antoine Bootz : pages 69, 70
Bruno Fabbris : page 68 (en haut)
François Kamif : page 26
Lhorens B. Sartori : pages 36, 49, 57 (en haut), 61
Patrick Paufert : pages 65, 71, 72, 73, 74
Peter Lippmann : page 66
Sølve Sunbsdø : page 68 (en bas)