CLASSIFICATION OF TOOLS
Is used to designed to
Different Marking Tools:
1. Chalk or Charcoal Line - are used to
impart long, straight lines onto the
surface of an object to provide accurate
guides prior to cutting of plywood and
lumber, laying tiles, leveling posts, and
many other tasks.
2. Scratch Awl - is a woodworking or
general shop working hand tool that is
used to scribe or “scratch” marks or lines
into various surfaces. It’s also used to
start or punch and pierce holes (such as
before drilling) into materials. The line it
makes, creates a groove or track mark for
larger tools to follow. The tool itself is
usually about 6″-7″ in length.
3. Round Pencil Head - used for marking
rough works.
4. Scriber - is used in marking fine work. It
is hardened steel with a sharp point
designed to mark fine line.
5. Compass - an instrument used to draw
circles, or the parts of circles called arcs.
It consists of two movable arms hinged
together where one arm has a pointed
end, and the other arm holds a pencil.
6. Divider - used to transfer
measurements, to step off a series of
equal distances, and to divide lines into
several equal parts. Dividers are
manipulated with one hand.
Different Testing and Guiding Tools:
1. Level (for Carpentry the widely used is
Spirit Level) - These levels come in
many sizes, as two-, four-, six-, and eight-
foot models are commonly available. For
the tasks most of us address, one each
of the two-foot and four-foot varieties will
be sufficient.
indicate whether a surface is level on the
horizontal or vertical planes, and there
are a variety of sizes and designs for
every project.
2. . Level Hose - is a simple device that can
provide an accurate elevation
comparison between multiple points that
rival each other to be a county high point,
or to be the highest summit of a major
peak (and therefore the summit that
takes its prominence). It is based on the
principle that if you fill a hose with water
and let it come to rest, the water level at
both ends will be the same.
3. Plumb Bob - is a simple tool that is used
to establish whether something is
“plumb” (exactly vertical). When the
string is attached to a static object and
the plumb-bob weight is suspended
below, the laws of gravity will ensure that
the string is both vertical and
perpendicular to any horizontal plane
through which it passes.
4. Miter Box – Miter is a union between two
pieces, each cut at an angle, at a corner.
Commonly, as for painting and picture
frames, the two ends of the two boards
are cut at a 45-degree angle and placed
next to one another to form a corner of
the frame. However, the angles can and
do vary. is consists of two components
—a hand saw whose teeth are set for
crosscutting (cutting against the grain of
the wood) and a “box” that is pre-
fashioned with slots on both sides to help
the woodworker make accurate angled
cuts (typically 90° and 45°).
5. Miter Shooting Board - the special
purpose of the tool is to enable you to
plane a miter in an accurate and
controlled manner.
 6. Sliding T-bevel – Bevel: a slope from the
horizontal or vertical in carpentry and
stonework 5. Miter Shooting Board - the
special purpose of the tool is to enable
you to plane a miter in an accurate and
controlled manner.
- is an instrument that is used for both
laying out and transferring angles. These
tools are pivotal for many kinds of
construction jobs, especially for those in
which the ideal 90° angles are not
possible. With the sliding T-bevel, one
can conform his/her projects to less than
ideal angle measurements.
7. Angle Divider - is a double bevel used to
Parts of a Framing Steel Square:
divide an angle of a complicated work.
This tool could divide an angle in one.
8. Square - is called a “Trying Square”.
Square is a right-angle standard at 90
degrees used in marking or testing work.
There are many different types of
Square.
Different Types of Square:
1. Try Square - is special purpose square
in wood- and metalworking used to mark
Different Fastening Tools:
or measure material. The name ‘try
square’ comes from the concepts of
‘trying a surface’ (to check a surface’s
straightness or correspondence to an
adjacent surface) and ‘square’ (a 90° , or
right, angle).Try squares generally
consist of two parts. The ‘blade’ is the
longer portion, usually made of metal.
The ‘handle’ (or ‘stock’) is usually made
of wood, plastic or metal.
2. Miter Square - is a tool used to mark out
angles for miter joints, with two blades set
at a 45° angle or adjustable to any angle.
3. Combined Try and Miter Square - Try
and miter squares are marking and
checking tools used to assess angles
and mark straight cuts. They consist of
two straight pieces, the stock and the
blade, which intersect one other at either
90° or 45°.
4. Framing or Steel Square - it is also
called as “steel square” and is a handy
tool for carpentry. Its uses extend into
framing and laying rafters and stairs. It
can also be used as a straight edge,
finding and establishing right angles and
marking cut-off work on wide stock.
a. Body – the longer and wider part.
b. Tongue – the shorter and the narrower
part.
c. Face – the side visible when the square
is held by the tongue in the right hand, the
body pointing to the left.
d. Back – the side visible when the square
is held by the tongue in the left hand, the
body pointing to the right.
1. Claw Hammer - is a type of hammer
used mainly for pounding nails into, or
extracting nails from, wood. Its sizes
varies from 140 to 560 grams.
a. 400 – 450 grams is recommended
for finishing work.
b. 450 – 560 grams is recommended
for framing work.
2. Wrench - A hand tool with a handle and
a jaw which may be fitted to the head of
a nut used to tighten or loosen bolts. The
three general classes of wrenches are:
(a) Plain (b) Socket (c) Adjustable
 3. Screwdriver - a hand tool with a head
and a shank used for turning screw,
classified either as: (a) Plain
Automatic Plain Screwdriver Philipps
Screwdriver
- It may also be classified according to
the shape of the tip of the shank, such as:
(a) Ordinary (b) Philipps
Different Rough Facing or Striking Tools:
1. Hatchet - is generally a utility tool used
for sharpening stakes and cutting down
timber to rough sizes.
a. Shingling Hatchet - a hatchet
usually with a notch in the blade
for extracting nails and
hammerhead opposite the cutting
edge.
b. Claw Hatchet- a hatchet that has
a cleft for pulling nails.
2. Axe - a tool used for splitting wood or
hewing timber.
3. Adze - roughly, an adze is a hatchet in
which the blade is at right angle with the
handle.
Different Toothed Cutting Tools:
1. Rake/Hook Angle – Rake is the angle
that the front of the tooth makes with a
line drawn perpendicular to the point line
and lying in the plane of the saw plate.
The main role that rake plays is
controlling the aggressiveness of the
saw. All other things equal, a saw will cut
more aggressively as its rake
decreased.
2. Pitch – is a measure of the number of
points or teeth that fall within one inch, as
measured along the point line. It is
expressed as either points per inch (ppi)
or teeth per inch (tpi). While most
(b) American saws were (and are) described
in ppi, rumor has it that British saws are
traditionally described in tpi. Not to worry,
though - converting between the two is
simple:
ppi = tpi + 1
tpi = ppi – 1
3. Set – is created by bending the tips of the
teeth in alternating directions. This
creates clearance in the cut for the saw
plate, reducing friction and binding.
4. Saws - Relevant parts of a saw, the
nomenclature used in this presentation is
identical to handsaws.
a • Kind of cut
a. Crosscut Saws - this saw is used
for making rough cuts of wood, for
example, trimming branches or
cutting lumber, and is designed to
cut across the grain of the wood
(i.e., perpendicular to the grain).
These saws have large teeth and
a relatively thick blade to make it
sturdy against rough wood.
Crosscut saws can be for use by
one person, or for two people
simultaneously
b. Rip Cut Saw - is one of the most
common types of saws that
anyone who works with wood will
own, and probably the saw that
gets used the most often as it is
versatile and suitable for several
jobs. A rip cut saw is designed to
is cut wood parallel to the grain. It
has few teeth per inch compared
to most other hand saws, though
each tooth is very sharp to remove
chips of wood as it works, almost
 like a collection of chisels working
together all at once.
• Shape of the blades
a. Thin Back Rip Saw
b. Skew Back Rip Saw
• According to its use
a. Coping Saw - has a blade that is
secured in place by tension. It is
used for making curved cuts on
wood, and in fact, this is where it
gets its name from, as it is ideally
used to create coping joints rather
than miter joints. The blades of
these saws are narrow, with
between 15 and 17 teeth per inch
of the blade. These saws are
lightweight and typically measure
around 6 inches across.
b. Bow Cut Saw - is a modern type
of crosscut saw. It is a medium-
sized hand tool that is most used
outdoors for pruning trees and
cutting logs. A bow cut saw has
crosscut teeth that are able to
remove sawdust while being
pushed in and out. Their blades
are long and narrow, making them
suitable for cutting thick sections
of wood. They can also be used to
make curved cuts.
c. Fret Saw - These saws are
designed to complete much more
intricate woodwork. The name of
‘fret’ comes from the French word
‘freter,’ which translates in English
to ‘lattice,’ as this saw was made
for use on latticework. Its blades
have around 32 teeth per inch,
which makes them very precise
and able to produce accurate
work; however, it also makes them
fragile. Fret saws can produce
curved cuts, like a coping saw, but
the coping saw offers much less
accuracy than a fret saw
d. Keyhole Saw - These saws take
the shape of a dagger, with a blade
that comes to a point at the
opposite end of a single handle.
They are also known as ‘jab saws’
because the sharp point allows
them to jab through materials such
as drywall, and then saw through.
Their thin blade makes them ideal
for making awkward cutting
maneuvers or making small holes.
They are also used for cutting
rough patterns out. These types of
saws typically come in two
varieties: with a fixed blade or with
a retractable blade
e. Back Saw - These saws are also
known as dovetail saws, as they
are ideal for making dovetail joints
that require precision and
accuracy. These saws have fine
teeth and narrow blades, making
them suitable for making exact
cuts. Back saws benefit from a stiff
piece of metal such as brass or
steel attached to the opposite side
of the cutting edge. This helps to
give them greater control and
means they can cut with less
applied force.
f. Veneer Saw - These saws are
designed for cutting hardwood
veneers, laminates, and plastics.
They are a double-edged saw with
a small, curved blade, usually
measuring just 3 or 4 inches long.
Their size means they are only
useful for working on small areas,
 but they offer fast and smooth
results. Typically, these saws have
around 13 teeth per inch of blade.
When teamed with a straight edge,
the veneer saw can cut square-
edged materials perfectly to
achieve butt-joints for matching
veneers.
g. Wallboard Saw - Also known as
drywall saws, these saws look
very similar to keyhole saws. The
difference is that wallboard saws
usually have shorter and wider
blades. Their blades are also often
double-edged, with sharp teeth
running along both the top and
bottom sides of the blade. These
saws have a pointed nose and are
used for punching holes into
drywall or paneling. They tend to
have fewer teeth per inch than a
keyhole saw and are ideal for
making rough cuts
• Power Saws - are saws that are
powered by rechargeable
batteries, electricity, or gas motors
to make cuts. These can be
stationary or portable tools. They
are great for efficiency and
precision and help to complete
cutting jobs much more quickly
than hand saw equivalents
a. Circular Saw - This saw is so
named because of its blade, which
is a circle shape. The circular
blade spins at high speed and is
guided down by the user to cut the
material which needs to be held
firmly in place underneath it.
These saws are hugely popular
because of their versatility and
portability. Unlike a table saw,
these saws are reasonably
lightweight and so can be
transported to construction sites or
used in different locations with
ease. They are also compatible
with several different blade types,
enabling them to cut through
various materials, including stone,
metal, wood, plastic, and ceramics
b. Miter Saw - These saws operate
similarly to circular saws in that
they have a round blade which is
pulled downwards to cut the
material. However, a miter saw is
specifically designed for making
precise angled cuts, notable for
miter joints, which are when two
pieces of wood are seamlessly
joined at an angle. Miter saws
allow you to custom set the tool to
make any angle of cut you need,
and they are indispensable if you
are cutting trim or molding.
c. Compound Miter Saw - is like a
hyped-up miter saw. It has the
same blade which operates on an
arm instead of on a pivoting lever,
giving the user greater scope for
adjustment on more complex
cutting. These saws can produce
miter, straight, and compound
cuts, and are great for efficiency
and precision.
d. Jigsaw - Is a handheld power tool
that can make both straight and
curved cuts. It has a downward
pointing blade that is guided along
by an upper handle and can come
in both corded and cordless
varieties. They are lightweight and
easy to handle, as well as being
quiet, and are most suitable for
 cutting out patterns in thin swapped out for masonry or metal
materials such as plywood. blades so that you can cut different
Thicker blades are available to be types of materials. These types of
purchased for jigsaws to allow saws are ideal for making exact
them to cut through metal, tile, or straight cuts but require training
ceramic, but these are not typically before use as they can be
included as standard. Jigsaws are dangerous to operate.
a versatile tool that will see heavy 5. Files - A metal tool of different shapes
use in home woodworking and sizes used for abrading, reducing or
households. smooth cutting metal, wood or other
e. Chainsaw - Chainsaws operate materials.
with the use of a linked chain that • Tang - is the part of the file that fits
rotates around a piece of steel, inside the handle. However, files
with specially designed teeth with tangs are quite often sold
attached, which cut through wood without handles.
at high speed. It is most used to • Heel - also called the shoulder, is
cut through lumber and fell or trim the part of the file closest to the
trees. Chainsaws come with tang where the actual body of the
various power sources, including file begins. No teeth are cut into
gas engines, battery-powered the heel.
motors, or corded electric • Face - is the term used to describe
powered motors. Chainsaws with the wide, flat area of the file that
gas engines have the most power; usually does all the work. It may
however, they can also be more also be referred to as the belly, or
difficult to use because they the side.
vibrate the most. Chainsaws • Edge - the thin surfaces between
powered by battery or electric the faces on a file. These may or
cables are better for longer jobs as may not be cut with teeth
they will induce less fatigue on the depending on the intended
user. purpose of the file.
f. Table saw - Table saws have • Point - The end of the file opposite
circular rotating blades that to the tang.
emerge upwards from out of a a. Mill Files - we use this type of file to
table to cut the chosen material. sharpen flat-bladed tools. We can
These work almost in the opposite also level the teeth on saw blades
way to a circular saw, in which you with these files.
pull the blade down onto your b. Taper Saw Files - this is a classic file
material. With a table saw, instead, which we use to sharpen wood saw
you push your material onto the teeth. It is triangular in cross-section,
blade. The blade depth can be and the angle of the triangle
adjusted to suit your cutting needs,
and the blade itself can be
 corresponds to the angle of teeth in
the saw.
c. Double Ended Saw Files - we use a
double-ended saw file to sharpen
saw blades. It is characterized by its
high durability.
d. Chainsaw Files - these files are
round in cross-section, but we get
them in different shapes as well. The
specialty of chainsaw files is that they
fit into the cleft of a chainsaw blade to
Chisels are classified according to:
sharpen it.
e. Flat Files - you get a variety of
different sizes of flat files. These files
are indispensable for smoothing out
rough edges and corners, to avoid
forming splinters that could injure you
while handling wood.
f. Slotting Files - helps to cut or clear
slots in a screw. This proves to be
quite handy if you need to use a wood
screw that has a poorly made slot.
g. Needle Files - these files help us to
work with extremely fine detail.
Needle files again are incredibly
versatile. You can use them to finish
off roughly shaped wood or to clean
dog holes and bores.
h. Augur Bit Files - we use augur bit
files to sharpen augur bits. An augur
bit is a helically shaped drill bit with
which you can make holes in wood.
i. Knife Files - if you have wood with
fine grooves or tight internal angles,
you will do well to use a knife file. As
the name suggests, this file has a
knife-like shape with a narrow blade.
Different Sharp-Edged Cutting Tools:
1. Chisel - Is an indispensable tool in
carpentry which is also considered as the
most mishandled tool often used for
prying, can opener, open cases, or as
screwdriver, etc. It is used for cutting or
carving hard materials such as metal,
stone or wood. A chisel tool has a shaped
cutting edge of a blade on its end, with a
handle that is characteristically made of
wood or metal
a. Service
• Paring Chisel - has a thin
blade, with the cutting edge
formed by a bevel ground at an
angle of 15o. It is used for light,
fine work and should be used
without the aid of a mallet or
other heavy driving tool.
• Firming Chisel - has a heavier
blade than a paring chisel, and
its angle is 20o. This chisel is
used for both heavy and light
work; and a mallet may be
used to drive it.
• Framing Chisel - has a thicker
blade than the firmer chisel. Its
bevel is ground at an angle of
25o, and it is used for rough
carpentry work and meant for
the heaviest woodworking (cut
notches, gouge wood, and
carve mortises and tenons), so
they’re built extra-durable with
reinforced handles that can
take repeated heavy blows
without mushrooming or
splitting.
b. Length
• Butt Chisel - are typically less
than 4 inches in length. They
 usually come in lengths of 2-
3.5 inches. Their shape makes
them useful for cutting into
tight corners and small edges.
For this reason, they work best
on complicated furniture
projects such as cabinets and
desks.
• Pocket Chisel - a chisel with a
length of 8” and has blade
width of 1” or ¾” or ½” or ¼”.
• Mill Chisel - a woodworking
chisel having a blade more
than 8 inches long.
c. . Blade Edges
• Square/Straight Edge - other
types of wood chisel have
straight edges. Chisels with
straight edges are particularly
good for paring jobs and
finishing joints with 90-degree
angles because of
rectangular cross-section. A
disadvantage of having
chisel with square edges is
that you cannot get into the
corners of acute angled joints
such as a dovetail joint.
• Bevel Edge - the edges of
some wood chisel blades are
beveled. This means that the
edges have been ground down
to a specific angle to allow
them access into certain
carpentry joints such as a
dovetail joint. The
advantage of chisels
bevel edges is that they can be
worked into the corners of
dovetail joints and other joints
with acute angles
d. Handle Attachment
• Tang - is the part of the blade
that is slotted into the handle.
Chisels with a tang are
typically manipulated by hand.
• Socket - is the part of the
blade the handle is slotted into.
Chisels with a socket are
typically struck with a mallet.
e. Blade Faces
• Flat Face - chisel blades with
flat faces are most often used
for chopping tasks and for
cleaning up 90-degree angles
and square edges.
• Bevel Face - chisels with
beveled faces are frequently
used to cut and pare joints that
have sharp internal angles.
Note that these are slightly
different from chisels with
its beveled edges – the bevels
here meet in the middle, but
a beveled edges (image from
past slide) are not so wide,
leaving a flat section in the
middle of the blade (image
from past slide).
• Oval Face - chisel blades with
oval (or “rounded”) faces are
the least common and are
found mostly on chisels
designed for paring and
carving
chief
with Different Smooth Facing Tools:
1. Spoke Shave - a modified kind of draw
knife with an adjustable blade like a plane
to limit the thickness of the cut.
2. Plane - is used in smoothing boards or
other surfaces for framing and molding.
Plane is also used to make wood
surfaces into uniform thickness
• Jack Plane - used for heavy
rough works (flattening
smoothing of boards). Usually has
a length of about 350mm long,
making it typically longer than
smoothing planes and relatively
heavier.
• Fore Plane - used for smoothing
and straightening the rough or
irregular cut of the jack plane.
Measuring about 460 mm in
length, we use a fore plane to
flatten boards.
• Trying Plane - is used to obtain
the smoothest finishing.
Measuring about 460mm
length. Works very well when
used on a shooting
Especially good on difficult or
reversing grain.
• Jointer - measures about 600 mm
in length. We use this plane to trim
the sides of boards just before we
join them. It helps to achieve a
finer joint.
• Smooth Plane - measuring about
175 mm in length, the smoothing
plane is still among the shorter
members of the plane family. It is
used for final finishing
flattening and smoothing boards
(ideally for flat boards).
sharpened and used
adequate skill, a smoothing plane
can create a finish on wood finer
than that of sanding.
3. Molding and Special Planes - are
planes used in making various shapes of
molding and cuts. The different types of
molding planes are:
• Rabbet Plane - also called as
and “rebate plane” and it is used to
create rabbets in planks of wood.
It keeps the cut perfectly parallel
to the edge of the workpiece. The
plane also has a depth stop which
prevents the depth of the cut from
being exceeded
• Fillister Plane - Similar in use as
the rabbet plane but is preferable
because it cuts more accurately
than the former.
• Grooving Plane - is a plane used
in woodworking to make grooves
or used in cutting across the wood
in grain.
• Round and Hollow Molding
board. Plane - is a plane used in
woodworking to make grooves or
used in cutting across the wood
grain.
4. Electric Planer/Power Hand Planer -a
power planer's primary function is to
smooth the surface of wood, but it can
also be used to smooth wood's rough end
grain. It's also used for tapering wood.
Different Boring or Drilling Tools:
for 1. Brad Awls - a small tool used for
punching or piercing small holes. It is
If generally used in starting a nail or screw
with into hardwood. Blade length of 2” and
with an overall length of just under 4”.
2. Gimlets - tools used for boring small
holes by hand pressure classified as: (a)
Twist (b) Plain; length is from 10” to 13”
 3. Augers - is used for boring holes with a
diameter from ½” to 2”. Augers provided
with shanks are commonly called “bits”
4. Twist Drills - used for drilling small holes.
Twist drills are preferably used in cases
where the gimlets or the auger may
cause splitting of the wood grain. These
tools have lesser tendency to split the
wood grain because they are not
provided with a cutting lip
5. Spoke Pointer - cuts conical holes. It is
like the auger only that the cutter is
lengthwise
6. Reamer - is used chiefly by machinist in
enlarging metal holes. It is also used in
carpentry work for enlarging holes on
wood when made too small for the screw
or its head.
7. Electric Drill - Used primarily for boring
holes in nearly all materials, the electric
drill can also be used for a variety of other
tasks, facilitated by several accessories
and attachments. These include sanding,
screwdriving, grinding, and mixing paint
to name but a few
Different Holding Tools:
1. Sawhorse or Trestle - carpentry work
such as chiseling, planning, and the like,
needs support to amply sustain the
operation. The Horse or Trestle is the
right tool for the purpose
2. Retaining - Under this category, there
are several kinds of holding tools
considered as rigid and strong enough in
tightly pressing the materials together
a. Clamp - is effective in tightly pressing
pieces of wood together in making
tenon, mortise and other joints.
Clamps may be classified into:
• Single Screw Jaw
• Double Screw
• Chain
• Miter
• Beam
b. Vises - a tool used to hold a piece of
material rigidly secured in place to
absorb sever blows. The available
types are:
• Screw
• Quick Acting Screw
• Parallel Jaw
• Swivel Base
Different Sharpening Tools:
- experienced carpenters realize the importance
of sharpening tools in carpentry operation.
Sharp tools assure the worker in accomplishing
a quality work and is faster than using dull tools.
1. Grindstone - a flat disc solid stone
usually of sandstone mounted on a shaft
used for sharpening, shaping, or
polishing metal by turning
2. Oil Stone - used after the grinding
operation to achieve a smooth and keen
edge of the tools. Oil is used as a
lubricating medium and that is why they
are called oil stone. Oil stone are of two
types:
a. Natural – found in the natural state
b. Artificial – are ordinary abrasives
such as carborundum and emery.
Work Bench
➢ is also an important tool in carpentry
operation considering the various tools
attached to it. Work bench is considered
as a shop tool and is needed for the
different kinds of on-site or offsite
preparation of wood parts in all
construction projects.