INTRODUCTION TO GARMENT INDUSTRY

The Indian clothing or apparel industry had its origin during the Second World War mainly for mass
production of military uniforms. Over the years, its profile has undergone significant changes. Technology
has been gradually upgraded and there is qualitative and quantitative improvement in apparel industry in
India. Now India is well known for its fine textile products and emerged as strong destination of all types of
high end textile products. India’s garments are exported to almost all parts of developed world. Most of the
leading fashion brands are sourcing substantial quantities from India now.

Garments Production Flow Process:

Stepwise garments manufacturing sequence on industrial basis is given below:

Design / Sketch
↓
Pattern Design
↓
Sample Making
↓
Production Pattern
↓
Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓
Sorting/Bundling
↓
Sewing/Assembling
↓
Inspection
↓
Pressing/ Finishing
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Despatch
 Operation of Garments manufacturing are given below in details:
SL
No. Operation Job Method

It is given by buyers to manufacturers

Design/ containing sketches including measurements of
01 Sketch particular styles Manual/Computerized
Basic block is an individual component of
garments without any style of design (without
02 Basic Block Allowance, Style, Design) Manual/Computerized
When a pattern is made for a particular style
with net dimension regarding the basic block
Working along with allowance then it is called working
03 Pattern pattern. Manual/Computerized
To make a sample, this will be approved by
Sample buyer. After making a sample, it is sent to
04 Garments buyer for approval to rectify the faults Manual
After rectify the faults, sample is again sent to
Approved buyers. If it is ok then , then it is called
05 Sample approved sample Manual
 Fabric Costing
 Making Charged
 Trimmings
06 Costing  Profit Manual
Production Making allowance with net dimension for bulk
07 Pattern production Manual/Computerized
If the buyer requires different sizes, so should
08 Grading be grade as S, M, L, XL, XXL Manual/Computerized
Marker is a thin paper which contains all the
Marker components for different sizes for a particular
09 Making style of garments Manual/Computerized
Fabric To spread the fabrics on table properly for
10 Spreading cutting Manual/Computerized
11 Cutting To cut fabric according to marker dimension Manual/Computerized
Sorting & Sort out the fabric according to size and for
12 Bundling each size make in individual bundles Manual
13 Sewing To assemble a full garments Manual
After sewing we will get a complete garment
which is treated with steam ironing & also
Ironing & several finishing processes are done for
14 Finishing example extra loose thread cutting Manual
15 Inspection Should be approved as initial sample Manual
16 Packing Treated by Polyethylene bag Manual
17 Cartooning After packing, it should be placed In cartooning Manual
 for export
18 Despatching Ready for export Manual

SPREADING

Spreading is a preparatory operation for cutting. The main aim of the spreading process is to lay the
several fabric plies essential for the production process to the marker length without any tension on the
fabric. The lay height depends on order size, fabric characteristic, capacity of the spreader, cutting method
and equipment used. The preference of mode of spreading will influence the cost of spreading as well as
finished garment quality.

Number of plies depends on:

1. Capacity of the cutting machine

2. Volume of production
3. Type of fabric itself (rough or slippery)
4. Thickness of fabric

Types of Fabric Spreads:

The spreads can be categorised into two basic types, namely, flat spread and stepped spread.

 Flat spreads (scrambled spread) – It is the economical method of spreading where a single
section maker comprises patterns in the ratio that the style is ordered. Fabric is normally spread in
multiples of the ratio of the marker. In this type of spread, all plies are of the same length.
 Stepped spreads (section spreads) – In this method, the spread is normally built like small steps,
with all the fabric plies in a step having the same length. It is commonly used when the order needs to
cut the imbalance between the quantities to be cut, which prevents the use of the flat spread. In most
circumstances, the marker section with the need for the greatest number of plies is situated closest to the
left of the spread. Then each section in the order of decreasing numbers of plies is located after the first
going down the table.
Objectives or Requirements of fabric Spreading Process:

1. Shade sorting of fabric rolls:

Generally one spread requires more than one fabric roll; several rolls are necessary to produce the required
order quantity. Hence there is a chance for roll-to-roll shade variation. A garment assembled from
components cut from these different fabric rolls could exhibit a shade variation between its different panels.
While spreading fabrics of more than one roll in a spread, they have to be separated by means of
interleaving paper, which aids in easy identification and separation of the plies for bundling.

2. Ply direction and lay stability:

It is influenced by the type of fabric, shape of the pattern and the spreading equipment. For example, the
fabric could be spread either face up or face-to-face manner for symmetrical patterns. On the other hand, the
fabric can be spread only in face-up or face-down manner for asymmetrical patterns.

3. Alignment of plies:
Each ply of the spread must have the length and width of the marker and also the minimum possible extra
outside those measurements especially in width due to the possibilities of width variation between fabric
rolls as well as within the roll to a lesser extent. By considering this, generally the marker plan is created to
the narrowest width of fabric. The excess fabric width could be dispersed outside the marker plan at the
opposite end of an operator by aligning the fabric edges at the end or the fabric could be aligned centrally by
distributing the extra width equally on both sides.

4. Correct ply tension:

It is very crucial to spread the fabrics with adequate tension during spreading. Suppose if the fabric is spread
with low tension, then the fabric will form ridges with irregular fullness. Conversely, if the fabric is spread
with high tension, they will maintain their tension while held in the lay, however, it will contract after
cutting or during sewing, leading to a smaller size of the garment component. The normally recommended
methods for removing tension in the lay are relaxing the fabric overnight, beating the lay and positive fabric
feed.

5. Elimination of fabric faults:

A plastic tag is normally pasted on the fabric edge in line with the fault during fabric inspection. The
fundamental ways of taking action to localised faults are make-through system, cut out at the lay and the
sort and recut system.

 In the make-through system, the fabric faults are left in the garment as it is and it is inspected at
the final stage of manufacturing. This option can be utilised when fabric faults are relatively lower and
the market is available for ‘seconds’.
 Cutting out at the lay uses ‘splicing’ during spreading. In this method, the fabric is cut across the
fabric ply at the point where the fault is located and overlays it as far back as the next splice mark,
which is adequate to allow a complete garment panel rather than sections only to be cut.
 In the case of the sort and recut method, the fabric faults are marked with a strip of contrasting
fabric; however, no action is taken at the spreading stage. After the cutting process is completed, the cut
components are inspected for faults and the defective panels are recut from the remnant fabric. This is a
 cost-effective method and is particularly used when the cost of fabric is high, the garment pieces are
large and the fault rate is high.

6. Elimination of static electricity, fusion and tight selvedge in cutting:

 Static electricity can build up within a lay in the case of synthetic fibres particularly on dry days.
In such circumstances, the spreading process will be more difficult.
 Cut edges of thermoplastic fibre fabrics could fuse together during cutting due to heat generation
in the knife blade. Generally, anti-fusion paper comprising a lubricant could be used that lubricates the
knife blade, therefore reducing the heat generation in the cutting knife.
 Tight selvedges generally lead to fullness in the central area of the spread. They can be corrected
by cutting into the selvedge to release the tightness.

7. Fabric control during spreading:

Preferably, each ply in the lay should be spread by superimposing the fabrics one above another with their
ends aligned.
 Smoothing fabric – During spreading it is important to open out any unnecessary folds, and to
avoid ‘bubbles’ caused by uneven tension in softer fabrics.
 Skewing – Skewing is a condition where the fabric is angled across the course.
 Bowing – Bowing is created when the cross-grain weft bends additionally down the table in the
centre of the fabric which is difficult to minimize.

8. Avoidance of distortion in the spread:

Spreaders are vital to lay up the fabric without any tension. Therefore, the garment panels do not
shrink after cutting. Normally, a glazed paper with its glossy side kept down is put at the top of the
spreading table before spreading to avoid disturbance of lower plies of fabric while the base plate of a
straight knife cutting equipment passes beneath it.

Method of Spreading:

There are mainly two methods for spreading the fabric on the cutting table.

1. Manual method
2. Mechanical method

1. Manual method:

It does not fulfill the basic requirements.

 Fabric is laid completely by hand.
 With the help of mechanical assistance as roll cutter.
 With the help of manually operated spread truck.
 This is the most extensively used for small production because of cheap labor cost and availability
of workers.
Advantages and disadvantages of manual spreading machine:
 1. Can be used for low quantity, the capital cost is less
2. While spreading strips and checked, the lines can be matched
3. Low productivity
4. Speed of the spreading depends up on the operator skill
5. The ply tension control varies at different place since more than onepeople do the spreading at the
same time

2. Mechanical method:

It is possible to fulfill the basic requirements with mechanical method.

 Semi Automatic spreading: Semi automatic machine is working almost similar to Hand process
with spreading track process because this methods working technique and working prouder are same but
this process are working by electric motor.
 Fully Automatic spreading: Fully automatic machine is upgrade version of Semi Automatic.
This machine has the all of quality which is included in Semi Automatic.

Automatic Programmable Spreading Machines:

All the requirements of spreading process can be fulfilled by fully automatic spreading machines. Their
features include:
1. Automatic loading/unloading and threading/rewinding device for fabric rolls.
2. Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back lay.
3. Automatic leveling device for fabric edge alignment.
4. Automatic cutting device (one way or two way cutoff) at the end of a run.
5. Automatic tensioning device to control fabric tension.
6. Automatic lay height sensing elevator.
7. Programmable lay length, ply height and step-laying.
8. Spreading seeds up to 140 m/min.
 CUTTING

Cutting is the process of separating a spread into garment components as a replica of pattern pieces on a
marker. It also involves transferring marks and notches from the marker to garment components to facilitate
sewing. The cutting process is frequently done in two stages: rough cutting and the final accurate cutting.

OBJECTIVES OF CUTTING:

The main purpose of cutting is to separate fabric plies as replicas of the patterns in the marker plan. In
attaining this objective, certain requirements must be fulfilled.

1. Accuracy of cut:
The garment components have to be cut accurately and precisely as per the shape of the pattern to
facilitate assembling process and for better fitting of garments. The effortlessness in achieving this accuracy
is based on the cutting method engaged and on the marker.

2. Clean edges:
The fabric edges after cutting should not show fraying or snagging. These defects are due to an imperfectly
sharpened knife, which could result in heat generation due to friction with fabric which leads to fabric
damage. The heat generation during cutting with knives could be reduced by means of using sharpened
knife blades, serrated or wavy edge knife, utilisation of anti-fusion paper between fabric, spraying of
lubricant over the blades and reducing the lay height and blade.

3. Support of the lay:

The cutting method should provide the support for the fabric in addition to allow the blade to pierce the
lowest ply of a spread and separate all the plies.

4. Consistent cutting:
Based on the method of cutting employed, the lay height will vary. To get a consistent quality of cutting, the
lay height should be as low as possible without affecting the production planning and quality of cutting.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF CUTTING MACHINES

Cutting machine and equipment can be categorized as following

1. Manual cutting
2. Semi-automatic cutting machine
3. Fully automatic cutting machine

1. Manual cutting

Hand scissors are used for cutting fabric plies manually. Hand scissors are not machines but very useful
cutting equipment. Factories may have semi-automatic and fully automatic machines for fabric cutting, but
can’t avoid use of hand scissors in cutting section. Scissors are common tool in cutting process and hand
scissors ha many use in cutting room.

2. SEMI-AUTOMATIC CUTTING MACHINES

1. Straight Knife cutting machine:

The straight knife is a common means of cutting lays in conventional cutting rooms because it is
versatile, portable, cheaper than a band knife, more accurate on curves than a round knife and relatively
reliable and easy to maintain. Even if a band knife is used for the main cutting operation, a straight knife
would be used to separate the lay into sections for easier handling.

Features of Straight Knife Cutting M/C:

 Here, knife is driven by using electric power.
 Straight edge is mostly used in straight knife.
 Here, blade stroke varies from 2.5 to 4.5 cm.
 During cutting, grinding wheel helps to sharp the cutting knife.
 Blade edge: straight edge, wave edge, saw edge, serrated edge
 This type of knife can cut heavy fabric i.e. canvas and denim fabric.

Advantages of Straight Knife Cutting Machine:

1. This types of cutting machine is used in readymade garments sector in more than 99% cutting cases.
2. It can be easily transferred from one place to another.
3. Straight knife cutting m/c is comparatively cheaper than others.
4. Higher lay of fabric can be cut easily by using straight knife cutting m/c.
5. Automatic grinding.
6. Excellent efficiency in cutting high curve line than round knife.
7. By using this types of machine, round corners can be cut more precisely than even round knife cutting
m/c.
8. Fabric can be cut from any angle by using straight knife cutting machine.
9. Production speed is very good by using this types of cutting machine as up to 10 heights can be cut at a
time.
10. It also suitable for straight line and curve line.
11. Here, garment or apparel or clothing components can directly be separated from fabric lays.

Disadvantages of Straight Knife Cutting Machine:

1. After definite period, knife needed to replace.
2. Knife deflection is in high risk here when lay height is too high.
3. Faulty knife can damage the fabric layer.
4. Operator is in high risk here for physical damage.
2. Band Knife Cutting Machine:
It is normally engaged for accurate cutting of garment components. It consists of an electrically powered
motor and a constantly rotating steel blade mounted over it . In this cutting system, the knife is stationary
which moves through a small slot provided in the table and the fabric has to be moved manually to the blade
area for accurate cutting.

Features of Band Knife Cutting M/C:

 This type of knife consists of a series of three or more pulleys which are powered by electric motor.
 Band knife blade is normally narrower than straight knife.
 Here, cutting knife is endless in shape and also flexible.

Advantages of Band Knife Cutting Machine:

1. Band knife cutting machine is suitable for any types of line.
2. It has higher productivity for limited products.
3. It is also suitable for cutting small parts of fabrics.
4. In band knife cutting machine, automatic grinder grinds the knife instantly.
5. It is used specially.
6. It is suitable to cut very sharp curves.
7. Band knife cutting machine cuts the fabric at 90° angle of the lay.
8. Accident possibly is very low here.
9. Here, air blower helps to decrease the fabric weight which ultimately increases the smooth
movement of fabrics.

Disadvantages of Band Knife Cutting Machine:

1. Band Knife cutting machine is comprised with a fixed space.
2. Work load is higher.
3. Here, it’s not possible to cut the fabric directly from fabric lay.
4. Running cost is higher.
5. Fabric wastage is higher here.
6. Band knife cutting machine is not suitable for large fabric components due to the shortage
length of the table.
3. Round knife cutting machine:

The basic elements of a round knife are analogous to a straight knife except it has a round blade. The blade
diameter varies from 6 to 20 cm. Round knives are not appropriate for cutting curved lines especially in
high lays as the circular blade could not cut all the plies at the same point as well as the same time as in a
vertical blade. Hence, it could be utilized only for cutting straight lines rather than curved ones.

Features of Round Knife Cutting M/C:

 Some key elements of round knife fabric cutting machines are base plate, electric motor, circular
blade etc.
 Band knife blade is circular.
 Band knife blade diameter ranges from 6 to 20cm.
 This type of blade is driven by electric power.

Advantage of Round Knife Cutting Machine:

1. Suitable for cutting single ply as well as multilayer (say 20-30layers).
2. Easy to handle & operate.
3. Suitable for small scale cutting.
4. Suitable for gentle curve line cutting.
5. To cut the larger part of the garments.
6. With a same r.p.m. its efficiency is 10 times greater than the straight knife.

Disadvantage of Round Knife Cutting Machine:

1. Very low r.p.m. & knife height.
2. Manual grinder is used.
3. Low productivity since few number of lay can be cut.
4. Difficult to cut small components & high curve line.
5. Not suitable for large production.
6. Lubrication is manually done.

4. Fabric die cutting machine:

The die is a knife blade in the profile/shape of a pattern margin, including notches. It involves
forcing a firm blade through a fabric lay. Free-standing dies normally have two categories. One kind is a
strip steel, which cannot be sharpened and must be replaced when worn and another one is forged dies,
which can be re sharpened but the cost is five times higher than strip steel. The position of the tie bars,
which hold the die, determines the depth of the cut. Free-standing gives higher accuracy of cutting and is
used for cutting the small components of larger garments like collars and pockets.

Features of Die Cutting M/C:

 Pressers and clickers are mainly two types of die cuttings are available.
 To cut sharp and small parts it is mostly used in apparel industry.
 Important parts of this fabric cutting machines are blade, motor, ram head etc.
 Die is made by metallic strip.
5. Notcher Cutting Machine:

Notchers are machines used to create notches in the edge of cut components.

 Cold notcher – The cold notcher is a spring-loaded device with a small blade fitted on a plunger.
For making a notch in the fabric panels, it is kept at the edge of the panel where the notch has to be
produced and by a single downward stroke the notch is cut into the edge of fabric plies.
 Hot notcher – In loosely constructed woven or knitted fabrics, the cut notch will vanish in the
edge fraying during handling each component. To make a permanent notch, a hot notcher (Figure-6) is
utilised. It uses a vertical heated edge to burn a notch without the danger of melting or scorching into the
edge of the bundle.
 Ink notcher – It is analogous to the hot notcher except after burning a notch it leaves a drop of
UV marking ink that is visible under UV light.

Features of Notcher Cutting M/C:

 It is special type of cutting machine.

 It is used in special cases.
 The notch can be made in V-shape or U-shape.
 It is used to cut notch in the edge of some important components.

Advantages of Notcher Machine:

1. It is a special type of cutting machine & use in special case.
2. Useful to cut small notch to the fabric.
3. It is most useful to make consistency in notching.

Dis-advantages of Notcher Machine:

1. Only use to make notch to the fabric.
2. Thermoplastic fibre can’t cut by this machine.
3. The use of machine is limited.
6. Drill Cutting Machine:
Where reference marks are needed away from the edge of a garment Part, such as for the position of
pockets, button hole, darts and similar features, a hole is often drilled through all the plies of fabric in the
lay.

Features of Drill Cutting M/C:

 The main components of this fabric cutting machines are motor, base plate, drill and spirit level.
 In hypodermic drill some color is sprayed along with the hole. So that it can easy to find the marked
place.
 In case of tightly woven fabric, drill is permanent for long to making hole.

Advantage of Drill Machine:

1. This machine is needed to mark on the end of components of dresses specially for setting pocket, dart
& so on.
2. It can make the hole permanently for a long.

Dis-advantage of Drill Machine:

1. The use of machine is limited.

3. FULLY - AUTOMATIC CUTTING MACHINES

1. Computer controlled knife cutting:

This method gives the most precise and accurate cutting at high speed. A characteristic computerized
cutting system has nylon bristles at the top of the cutting table to support the fabric lay, which is flexible
enough to allow penetration and movement of the blade through it. It also allows passage of air through the
table to produce a vacuum for decreasing the lay height.
The frame/carriage supporting the cutting head has two synchronized servo-motors, which drive it
on tracks on the edges of the table. A third servo-motor keeps the cutting head at an accurate position on a
beam through the width of the carriage. The cutting head includes a knife, sharpener and a servo-motor to
rotate the knife to position it at a tangent to the line of the cut on curves. An airtight polyethylene sheet
could be spread over the top of the lay to facilitate vacuum creation in the lay to reduce the lay height. A
control cabinet houses the computer and the electrical components required to drive the cutter, its carriage
and the vacuum motor.

Features of Computer Controlled Knife Cutting M/C:

 Computer controlled knife cutting method provides the most accurate possible cutting at high speed.
 Here, cutting knife is very hard and oval shaped.
 During cutting, marker is not needed to put over the fabric lay.
 Cutting blade is made of stainless steel.
 Sharpness of knife is also high here.
 This type of fabric cutting machines followed the CAD (computer aided design) system.
 Cutting knife itself moves according to the direction of computer programme.

An operator spreads the fabric lay on a conventional cutting table or cutting table equipped with air flotation
or conveyorised cutting table. Perforated paper is spread below the bottom fabric ply to support it during
cutting as well to avoid distortion during moving to the cutting table. After loading the disc having the
marker plan into the computer, the operator positions the cutting head’s origin light over the corner of the
spread (reference point). A motorised drill at the back of the cutting head provides drill holes as required
and facilities are available to cut the notches as well. The maximum height is usually 7.5 cm when
compressed, with the height before compression, and hence the number of plies, being based on the nature
of the fabric.

As the computerised cutting system works on the predetermined instructions from the computer/disc,
markers are not compulsory for this type of system. However, to identify the cut garment panels for sorting
and bundling, labelling of garment components that are to be cut is required.

Advantages:
1. Very fast fabric cutting;
2. Very accurate cutting;
3. Cutting speed could be varied;
4. Cutting knife could be rotated and moved at any angle;
5. Suitable for large scale production;
6. Can be connected with computerized marker making;
7. Fabric is compressed by vacuum facilitates cutting;
8. Cutting defect is negligible;
9. No possibility of blade deflection;
10. Blade sharpening is attached;
11. Possibility of accident is lower;
12. No need of marker;
13. Lower labor cost;
14. 6 to 8 times faster cutting.

Disadvantages:
1. Initial investment cost is very high;
2. Maintenance cost is also very high;

2. Fabric laser cutting machine:

A laser produces a beam of light that could be focused into a very small point (0.25 mm) to produce
high energy density and result in localised increase in temperature. In this system, cutting takes place by
way of burning, melting and vaporisation. The limited depth of fabric cutting (single or two plies) is the
major drawback of this system.

The cutting system comprises a stationary gas laser, a cutting head carrying a system of mirrors to reflect
the laser beam to the cutting line, a computer which operates the entire system and a system for removing
cut parts from the conveyor carrying the single ply of fabric

Features of Laser Beam Cutting M/C:

 In case of laser beam fabric cutting machines, cutting head is controlled by computer.
 Here, fabric is cut at a speed of 13m per minute.
 In case of this cutting process, fabric is cut by a ray of light in a very fine spot using laser.
 When the ray falls on a material, it generates heat on the material and cutting process is done by
vaporization.
 Radius of spot of light is 0.25 mm which is high powerful.
3. Fabric plasma cutting machine:
The plasma cutting process was developed to satisfy a demand for high quality accurate cutting on
stainless steel and aluminium; however, it could also be utilised to cut textile materials. In this system,
cutting is accomplished through a high velocity jet of high temperature ionised gas (argon). This method has
the potential to become the faster cutter of single plies, but the cutting method has similar issues as in laser
cutting related to quality of cutting.

Features of Plasma Torch Cutting M/C:

 By using these fabric cutting machines, one or more fabric plies can be cut.
 Here, fabrics are cut by a thin through the nozzle which is made by argon gas.
 To cut single ply of fabric it is most used.

4. Water jet fabric cutting machine:

A high velocity, small diameter stream of water is generated by applying high pressure water to a
nozzle (Figure-5). The high pressure water jet acts as a means to cut the fabric, tearing the fibers on impact.
As the water jet penetrates succeeding plies in a spread, the energy decreases and cutting capability is also
reduced. The water jet spreads out and the cutting point becomes wider at the bottom of the lay. There is a
problem of water spotting, wet edges and inconsistent cutting quality.

Features of Water Jet Cutting M/C:

 In this machine, a catcher in the bottom of fabric lays which is used with the same speed and the same
direction of water jet machine.
 Here, pressure of water is 60,000 pounds per square inch.
 Here, a thin jet of water is passed through a nozzle in a very momentum.
 Water is worked as like as hard and sharp knife which helps to cut the fabric easily.
5. Ultrasonic fabric cutting:
In this cutting system, vibration frequencies in the 20 kHz range are used to produce 1/20 mm
movement in the blade, small enough to remove the need for a bristle base to the cutting table. Disposable
knife blades save sharpening time and last for 10–14 days. Single ply and very low lays can be cut and low
vacuum only is needed.