Luka Kolovrat

Maja Delić Peršen

IMOTSKE MODRE VODE BLUE WATERS OF IMOTSKI
IMOTSKE MODRE VODE BLUE WATERS OF IMOTSKI

Luka Kolovrat i Maja Delić Peršen

IMPRESSUM SADRŽAJ CONTENTS

Izdavač Publisher TISKARA Franjo Kluz d.d. Omiš 6 predgovor foreword

10 uvodna riječ preface
Za izdavača For the Publisher LUKA KOLOVRAT
16 crveno jezero red lake
Urednica Editor ZLATA BABIĆ 42 modro jezero blue lake
64 rijeka vrljika the river vrljika
Fotografije Photography LUKA KOLOVRAT
68 mekousna pastrva soft-muzzled trout
Tekstovi Text MAJA DELIĆ PERŠEN, luka kolovrat 70 mlinice watermills

Uvodni tekstovi Preface and Foreword STIPE BOŽIĆ, MAJA DELIĆ PERŠEN, LUKA KOLOVRAT 71 perinuša perinuša
78 dva oka two eyes
Prijevod na engleski English translation MARKO PERŠEN 84 lokvičićka jezera lokvičići lakes

Lektorica Proofreader ZLATA BABIĆ, ana babić 92 prološko blato proložac mire
96 kanjon suvaje - badnjevice the canyon of suvaja - badnjevice
Korektorica Proofchecker MAJA DELIĆ PERŠEN
102 ričićko zeleno jezero green lake ričice
Grafičko oblikovanje Design and layout MARTINA PERKUŠIĆ 106 krenice krenice springs
110 imotska gaovica imotska gaovica
Tisak Print TISKARA Franjo Kluz d.d. Omiš, 2013.
112 novonastalo jezero bućuša new lake bućuša
Naklada Edition 500 116 brista brista
120 čatrnje THE STORY OF THE wells
130 pogovor epilogue
© Niti jedan dio ove publikacije ne može se koristiti bez prethodnog pismenog odobrenja izda- 134 autori authors
vača, osim ukoliko je riječ o osvrtima i recenzijama. Pogreške i previdi bit će ispravljeni u budućim
136 mapa imotskih modrih voda map of the blue waters of imotski
izdanjima.
140 zahvale acknowledgments
© No part of this publication may be used or reproduced in any manner without written permi-
ssion from the publisher, except in the context of reviews. Errors or omissions will be corrected in
subsequent editions.
 IMOTSKE MODRE DUBINE
Oduvijek čovjeka vuče želja za istraživanjem nepo-
znatoga. Vjekovima mnogi nastoje utažiti žeđ za
PREDGOVOR FOREWORD neviđenim pejsažima dalekih nepoznatih krajeva.
Stigao je čovjek tako do neslućenih visina svemira. A
jesmo li, na pragu 21. stoljeća, u potpunosti istražili
planet Zemlju? Znademo li što se sve krije u dubo-
kim morima ili u podzemnim šupljinama pod našim
nogama? Je li istraživanje svemira veći izazov od puta
prema središtu Zemlje? Smjeraju li oba ta puta istom
odgovoru na vječno pitanje: kako je sve to nastalo?
Nakon što sam se popeo na najviše planine svijeta i
putovao po najnepristupačnijim predjelima svih se-
dam kontinenata, odjednom spoznajem kako pred
kućnim pragom, ili bolje reći pod njim, leži jedan
novi, neistraženi svijet. Svijet dubina. Nepoznati svi-
jet tajanstvenih podzemnih prolaza kojima se, uz
obilje mašte, možda može stići i do drugoga nepo-
znatog, podmorskog svijeta. Neki još i danas vjeruju
kako mnoge pećine i jame čuvaju tajne nestalih bo-
gatstava. Često su me, dok sam za Hrvatsku televizi-
ju snimao priče o tajnama krša, pitali jesam li u dubi-
nama našao kakvo davno skriveno blago.
Jest, našao smo blago o kojemu nisam ni slutio: za-
boravljeno blago modrookih dubina, spiljskih ukrasa,
bogatstvo malo poznatih bioloških vrsta, ljepotu ne-
viđenih podzemnih prostora. Neprocjenjivo blago,
čiju vrijednost još dobro ne spoznajemo, jesu krška
jezera oko Imotskog. Svaki put kad ih ugledam, čini
mi se da sam prvopristupnik koji promatra stvaranje.
Dok ih gledam, ti jedinstveni, velebni ponori vladaju
mojim bićem ponovo me upozoravajući kako sam
malen, ništavan i prolazan u usporedbi sa stvaralač-
kom i ujedno razarajućom ljepotom prirode.
Splet oštrih kamenih pukotina, škrapa, vrtača, jezera,
kanjona i uzvisina! Kamena pustoš u kojoj su oaze
plodne zemlje što ih je čovjek uspio kultivirati. Krš!
Kamen, voda i čovjek ovdje vjekovima utječu jed-
ni na druge i mijenjaju se. Ljudi takve promjene pri-
pisuju vremenu iako je ono, kao u većini slučajeva,
samo nijemi svjedok koje gleda kako se sve mijenja,
prolazi i nestaje. Jer, što je čovjek u usporedbi s kaplji-
com vode koja, dok pada kroz atmosferu, veže dio
6 7
BLUE DEPTHS OF IMOTSKI
A desire to explore the unknown has been inspiring
mankind since the beginning of time. For ages, many
people have been trying to satisfy the hunger for the
unseen scenery of distant, unknown places. That is how
man reached the unfathomable heights of universe.
Still, standing on the doorstep of the 21st century, can
we honestly claim we have completely explored the
planet? Do we know all the secrets of its deep seas or
its underground world that lies beneath our feet? Is
the exploration of space a bigger challenge than the
journey to the centre of the Earth? Do both paths lead
to the answer to the same eternal question: How was
it all created?
After having climbed the highest mountains of the
world and travelled through inaccessible parts of all
the seven continents, I found a new unexplored world
- the world of depths - right there on my doorstep or,
more precisely, under it. There is an unknown world
of mysterious underground passages which stir one’s
imagination and lead to another unknown world - the
underwater world. Some still believe, even today, that
many of those caves and pits keep secrets of vanished
treasures. While I was working for the Croatian
Television and filming stories about the secrets of karst,
many people asked me if I had found some treasure,
hidden long ago in the depths of the ground.
Yes, I have found the treasure I never thought I would
find - the forgotten treasure of blue depths and cave
decorations, a true wealth of so little known biological
species, and the beauty of unseen underground
locations. A priceless treasure, the value of which
we do not fully recognise, are the karst lakes around
Imotski. Every time I see them I feel like the first person
to observe them in their creation. When I look at them,
those unique massive depths take my whole being,
warning me again and again how small I am, how
weak and ephemeral compared to the creative and
destructive beauty of nature.
An interplay of sharp stone openings, cracks, holes,
lakes, canyons and heights, a rocky wasteland with
fertile oases made by man - karst! Stone, water and
man have influenced and changed each other for
ugljikova dioksida, zbog čega nastaje ugljična kise-
lina što nagriza vapnenac. Kap, udružena s bezbroj
drugih kapljica, čini jednu od najsnažnijih sila na ze-
mlji. Ta je snaga, dugotrajnim kemijskim i mehanič-
kim procesom, stvorila današnju ljepotu imotskih
jezera.
Dubine su ljude oduvijek nadahnjivale svakojakim
legendama. Mogu li legende biti od pomoći spele-
olozima i znanstvenicima i nadahnuti ih za možebit-
na istraživanja? Televizijskim istraživačima, uvjeren
sam, legende pomažu. Davna predaja kaže kako su
na mjestu današnjega Crvenog jezera nekoć staja-
li bogataški, Gavanovi dvori. U tim dvorima ničega
nije nedostajalo, ali svejedno gospoda nisu bila milo-
stiva prema putnicima namjernicima pa su se dvori
profundali.
Potaknut legendom i pozivom imotskih planinara,
upustio sam se u malo televizijsko istraživanja feno-
mena dinarskog krša imotskih jezera. Koja je prava
dubina najpoznatijega, Crvenog jezera, odakle voda
dolazi i kamo odlazi, nije točno utvrđeno. Čovjeka će
te nepoznanice i dalje privlačiti, a što se dublje bude
spuštao, nailazit će na sve više tajanstvenih prolaza
što ih kriju dubine Crvenog jezera. A neki su prola-
zi toliko uski da kroz njih može proći samo kapljica
vode. Nasreću!
Stipe Božić
8 9
centuries. People blame time for the changes they see,
even though in most cases time is just a silent witness
that watches things change, pass, and vanish. For what
is a man compared to a drop of water falling through
the atmosphere and gathering carbon dioxide, thus
creating carbon acid that abrades limestone? That
drop, united with many others, is one of the mightiest
forces on Earth - the force that has created the beautiful
lakes of Imotski by long-term chemical and mechanical
processes.
Depths have always inspired many legends. Can legends
help cavers and scientists and urge them to explore?
I am sure they can help TV explorers. According to a
story passed on from generation to generation, there
used to be a rich man’s estate (called Gavan’s Estate)
where Red Lake is today. They lacked nothing there,
but the masters were not merciful to travellers in need,
so the estate collapsed into the ground and turned
into a lake.
Intrigued by that legend and accepting an invitation
from Imotski mountaineers, I participated in a small
TV exploration of a Dinaric karst phenomenon - the
lakes of Imotski. It has never been precisely determined
what the real depth of the most famous lake - Red
Lake - is, where its waters come from and where
they flow to. Those unanswered questions will keep
attracting attention and the deeper down we go, the
more mysterious passages we will find. They are hidden
in the depths of Red Lake and some of them are so
narrow that only a drop of water can pass through
them. Fortunately!
Stipe Božić
 IMOTSKE MODRE VODE
UVODNA RIJEČ PREFACE Imotski je okamenjeni san, izmaštani je grad što je
zasjeo među bijele kamene pletere. Krug je to vi-
linskoga kola na živcu kamenu okružen kolajnom
modrih jezera i oazama mekoga zelenila. Mjesto je
mitsko, arhajsko, gdje svaka duša nalazi svoj smisao i
objašnjenje. Zidom je vezen, špicom klesan i obliko-
van prema nebeskom kanonu. Njegova veličajnost
grada, Varuš, sazdan je da traje kao mjera svemu oko
sebe. Granicu mu nije moguće odrediti osim me-
trom duše, jer ondje gdje se ugnijezdio nebo je vi-
soko, a bezdan duboko. Plavetnilo mu uzlazi u visine
prema žarkom Suncu, a onda se, tutnjeći, sunovra-
ćuje u ponore, jame i pećine, teče vodama i kloko-
će podzemljem, pa žubori nadzemljem, vijuga među
jablanima, počiva na ilirskim gomilama… a potom
doseže beskraj nošen vjetrom, vodom i našom lju-
bavlju. Tko smije pred takvim čudom zatvoriti oči?!
Grad-svjetlost plamti na bijelome kamenu poput
Božjega grma, i ne da se obuzdati suhozidom ni
zemaljskim dimenzijama, već titra u vrelini ljetnog
dana i hlapi u vis nad Modrim jezerom, oglašava
se kliktanjem sokolova, uzdiže se među pahuljaste
oblake i dalje, a onda se obrušava i ponire u vode-
ne bezdane, jauče u Jauku, prijeti na Utopišću, izopa-
čuje se u Opačcu, grgolja u Dubokoj dragi, prelijeva
se iz Dva oka u kojima se vile lakonoge ogledavaju,
kolo uokolo igraju, pa snenom Vrljikom odmiče niz
polje. Objavljuje se svijetu svečanom slikom na rubu
Modroga jezera, blizu Crvenoga, zaodijeva se legen-
dama, prepoznaje se po uzdasima divljenja i nevjeri-
ci namjernika – sveobuhvatan je i skrojen vještinom
trudnih ruku ponad modrih vrutaka, u pravoj mjeri.
Kulom su ga utvrdili iznad vodene jame. Svi su ga
otimali i svi branili.
A tek jezera u Lokvičićima! Kanjon Suvaje, Badnjevice!
Svijet se ovdje čini kao privid, tlapnja. Žeđ kamena
i obilje vode utamničene u kamenu, sve je u kon-
trapunktu istovjetnom onome u ljudskom življenju
– fantazmagorična čarolija do koje se samo vjetrom
može doći jer su putovi zadračeni.
10
BLUE WATERS OF IMOTSKI
Imotski is a petrified dream, a fantasy city that lies
among wattle-like formations of white stone. It is a
circle on bare stone that fairies formed while dancing,
framed by blue lakes and soft green oases. It is a mythi-
cal, archaic place where every soul finds its meaning and
definition. It is embroidered with walls, sculptured with
a chisel and shaped according to the divine canon. The
real jewel of the town, the Old Town or Varuš, was built
to last as a reference for everything that surrounds it. Its
limits are impossible to determine unless you measure
it with your very soul because it lies where the sky is
high and the abyss is deep. Shades of blue rise towards
the bright sun and then, roaring, plummet into the
depths, pits and caves, flow with the waters and gur-
gle underground, stream on the surface, bend around
poplars, rest upon Illyrian piles … and then reach the
infinity, carried by wind, water, and our love. Who dares
to ignore such a miracle?
The town of light blazes on white stone like God’s
burning bush. It cannot be contained by dry walls
or any earthly structure: it palpitates in the heat of a
summer day and evaporates into the heights over Blue
Lake. It can be heard in a shriek of a hawk; it rises up
to fluffy clouds, or even higher, and then hurls itself
down and dives deep into watery abysses. It howls at
Jauk, threatens the world at Utopište, twists at Opačac,
gurgles in Duboka Draga, flows from Dva Oka (Two
Eyes), where swift fairies look at their own reflection
and dance their circle dance, and then descends down
the fields with the sleepy Vrljika. It reveals itself to the
world in the form of a magnificent painting at the
edges of Blue Lake, near Red Lake, all veiled in legends.
It can be traced in sighs of amazement and disbelief
of chance travellers – it is complete and shaped in
the right measure by skilful hard-working hands and
placed above blue springs. It is fortified by a tower
above a water pit. Everyone has been conquering it
and defending it.
And the lakes at Lokvićići! The canyon of River Suvaja
- Badnjevice!
11
U našem pričanju sadržan je intimni doživljaj koji
nije moguće sasvim iskazati jer stvarnost nadilazi
rječnik. Uzaludno je tragati za pravim izričajem, riječi
su nesavršeno sredstvo. Opisati Imotski nemoguće
je poslanstvo!
A okom camere obscure?! Na taj smo se medij odlu-
čili stoga jer je ljepota i u oku (ili okularu) koje gleda,
i možda je najstvarnija od svih stvarnih preslika. Na
našim je fotografijama zabilježeno ono što je sačuva-
no za današnje vrijeme; one su vjerni odraz prirode
kakvu smo zatekli pred objektivom kamere bez ikak-
ve naknadne tehničke intervencije. I dopustite, drži-
mo važnim što smo ispričali stvarnu priču, pa ako je
priroda u svojoj raznolikosti i raskoši nesavršena, mi
unaprijed pristajemo biti takvima s razlogom, pono-
sni što smo njezin mali dio.
Uljuljani smo po zasluzi rođenja u čarobnu zbilju
kao na meko uzglavlje, uvjereni da je upravo to ona
bajka u koju su utkani mnogi, a ne samo naši sno-
vi što traže potvrdu. (Geolozi nas upozoravaju na
oprez jer živimo na krhkom stupovlju iznad vodenih
jama koje samo što se nisu urušile. Jao nama, dakle
blago nama!) I usput, sasvim neobvezno, potaknuti
sportskim izazovom, želimo zanijekati upravo onaj
zakon fizike po kojemu teški kamen ne može plivati
na zrcalnoj vodi. Naprotiv, upravo je Imotski taj ka-
men na kamenu što lebdi meko i nježno iznad voda;
što više, temelji su mu iz nje izronili, bokovi su mu
oplakivani, opkopi napunjeni, čatrnje okrunjene, ka-
menice se prelile, a zvuci vodeni, tečeni, klokotani;
okolo se izvili jablani, vrbe se nagnule niz podzemne
i nadzemne rijeke, bistre, srebrne i životonosne, mo-
stovima prekoračene.
A nebo se modri jer se vode u njemu ogledavaju!
Kad u misli dozovete riječ „Imotski“, pojave se slike
maloga grada usred suroga bezvodnog krša, u zemlji
Nedođiji. Malobrojnima je znano da je Imotska kra-
jina blagoslovljena obiljem čiste pitke vode i da nje-
zina ljepota kulminira u tom neočekivanom kontra-
stu vode i kamenjara, od čega zastaje dah. Priroda
je ovdje obilato podijelila svoje darove kao očiti do-
kaz Božjeg nauma da čudesa beskrajnog svijeta ima-
ju biti. Ljepota je tako postala našom sudbinom ka-
kvu povijest osigurava svojim osobitim bićima, i mi
12
The world here seems an an illusion, a chimera. The
thirst of the stone and the mass of water imprisoned
by it, it is all in counterpoint that mirrors human life – it
is phantasmagorical magic accessible by wind alone, for
the paths are covered in thorns.
Our story tells an intimate experience impossible
to articulate completely, since the reality surpasses
our vocabulary. Searching for the right expression
is pointless - words are such an imperfect tool. To
describe Imotski is mission impossible!
What about the eye of a camera obscura? That is the
medium we have chosen because beauty is in the eye
(or the lens) of the beholder and maybe it creates the
most realistic image of all. Our photographs are a record
of all that was meant to be saved for the present; they
are a true reflection of nature as we found it in front
of a camera lens without any subsequent technical
intervention. In addition, allow me to say we believe
that telling a true story is important. If nature is not
perfect in all its diversity and glory, we agree in advance
to be imperfect as well, proud to be even a small part
of it.
We are entitled by birth to indulge in a magical reality;
we sleep on it like on a soft pillow, believing it to be, se takvima osjećamo: svečanima i odgovornima. Naš the images of a small town in the middle of cruel,
without a doubt, a fairytale made of many dreams (not skroviti kutak zemlje nije tek jedan reducirani svijet waterless karst in the never-never land. Few are aware
exclusively ours) that seek recognition. (Geologists nego mjesto susreta nas smrtnih bića s tajnama be- that the Imotski region is blessed with an abundance
call for caution because we live on fragile pillars above skraja - kamena Noina arka na posebnom kursu of clean potable water and that its beauty culminates
water pits that are about to collapse. God have mercy plovidbe. in the unexpected and breathtaking contrast of water
on us, we are blessed!) And ever so casually, driven by and stone. Mother Nature has been very generous
a sport challenge, we would like to violate the law of Tu smo odrastali slušajući prve bajkovite priče u koji- with its presents - an obvious proof of God’s intention
physics that says heavy rocks cannot float on mirror- ma su se isprepletali nebeski i zemaljski događaji, vile to create wonders in this world to which there are
like water. Imotski is precisely that solid rock that floats i vukodlaci, živi i mrtvi. Otkrivali smo zagonetnost i no limits. As a result, beauty became our destiny, a
softly and gently on water. Moreover, its foundations prividnost svega što nadilazi granice svakodnevnog privilege that history ensures to its protégés. And we
emerged from water, its sides are washed by water, iskustva. I sve svega. Tako smo i sami postali tajnim do feel that way, grand and responsible. Our hidden
its moats filled with it and its wells crowned with it; blagom koje još iščekuje svoj dobar čas. corner on Earth is not yet another reduced world; it is
water pours over the brims of its stone pools and you a place where mortal beings encounter the secrets of
can hear it flowing and gurgling. Poplars have twisted S radošću ćemo podijelit s vama priču o vodi iz gro- infinity – Noah’s Ark of stone on a special course of sail.
around water, willows bent along the underground mača i saznat ćete čime mjerimo sveti opseg doma.
and surface rivers, clear, silver, and fertile, traversed by Mi i naše zlatokose vodene vile u zajedničkoj smo We grew up here listening to our first fairytales with a
bridges. misiji uspostavljanja nježnih spona s ostatkom veli- strange interplay of heavenly and earthly events, with
kog svijeta koji nas tek treba prepoznati. Ovdje je sve fairies and werewolves, with the living and the dead.
And the sky is so very blue for those waters are moguće, i to svjedočimo na ovim stranicama. We discovered the mystery and illusion of all that
reflected in it! surpasses the boundaries of everyday experience. That
U međuvremenu, prema rasporedu utvrđenom od is how we ourselves became a secret treasure that still
When the word Imotski springs to mind, it summons starine, održavamo metriku duha, i… awaits its finest hour.
13
 …svaki se dan nadnosimo nad Modro jezero koje
se mreška u svojoj jami-kolijevci, mijenja boju, izvire,
uvire i prenosi nam poruke vilinskih bića. S njegova
oboda gledamo niz Imotsko polje i vijugavu srebrnu
Vrljiku među vrbama, dosežemo pogledom starca
Biokovo i snijeg što kopni na svetim vrhovima, sluti-
mo kaladu iznad Vrulje, osluškujemo zvono s presli-
ce sv. Luke da odredimo je li jugo u zraku…
S vama smo, skriveni iza naših riječi i fotografija, u
misiji čistog srca. I potpuno uvjereni da je stvarnost
najljepša bajka koju vam trebamo ispričati da biste
proniknuli u osebujni svijet, svijet čaroban, ali niko-
me potreban doli našemu vlastitom nadanju.
A, kada vas svladaju životne nedaće, zle misli i nepri-
jateljsko vrijeme, sjetite se da u našem kutku svijeta
što se skrio iza planine, baš ovdje među malim jezer-
skim vilama, za svakoga ima po jedna ozdravljujuća
slika. Čekamo vas!
Za kraj se utječemo pjesniku koji je o Imotskome
kazao: “Nikad se neće zaustaviti njegovo modrilo!“ (V.
Gotovac)
Autori
14
We are happy to share with you our story about water
from stone and teach you what we use to measure
the holy reach of home. With our golden-haired water
fairies, we are on a mission to establish friendly relations
with the rest of this great world that is yet to become
aware of us. Nothing is impossible here and we are
about to prove it on these pages.
In the meantime, following a schedule established a
long, long time ago, we maintain the metrics of spirit,
and… everyday we peer over Blue Lake: it ripples in its
stone cradle, changes colours, comes out of stone and
goes back in it again, passing on messages from the
fairies. From its edges we look down the Imotski Valley,
along the silvery river Vrljika that curves between
willows, and our eye reaches the old man - Biokovo
Mountain - and snow that slowly melts on its holy
peaks. We sense the mist above Vrulja and we listen to
the bell from St Luke’s peak, which helps us determine
if sirocco is in the air…
We are with you on this mission of pure hearts, hidden
behind our words and photographs. And yes, we are
indeed absolutely convinced that reality is the most
beautiful fairytale we have to share with you so you
could enter this peculiar magic world, necessary only
to our own hope.
When the troubles of the world break your spirit, when
bad thoughts and unfriendly weather bring you down,
remember that in our little corner of the world hidden
behind a mountain, right there among the little fairies
of the lake, there are healing images for everyone. We
are waiting for you!
In the end, we will refer to a poet who said the
following about Imotski: Its shades of blue shall never
be contained! (V. Gotovac)
Authors
15
 Crveno jezero je hidromorfološki fenomen i svjet-
ska rijetkost jer je oblikom, bojom i postankom je-
dinstveno u svijetu. Nalazi se 1,5 km sjeverozapadno
od Imotskog. Mlađe je tektonike na izrazito potre-
snom području. Nastalo je urušavanjem podzemnih
CRVENO JEZERO RED LAKE šupljina ispunjenih vodom. Stručnjaci ga često na-
zivaju čudom krša jer je riječ o provaliji stijenka po-
put prirodnog bunara, približnog promjera 200 m,
a dubine veće od 500 m, pri čemu na dubinu same
vode otpada polovica. Dno mu još nije posve istra-
ženo. Prvo sustavno istraživanje morfologije i hi-
drologije Crvenog jezera obavio je akademik Josip
Roglić 1937. godine, no mjerenja nisu osobito toč-
na s obzirom na tada raspoloživa tehnička sredstva.
Preciznije podatke o Crvenom jezeru dala su istra-
živanja ing. Milivoja Petrika obavljena pedesetih
godina prošloga stoljeća. Petrik je pronašao najnižu
točku dna na +4,1 m nadmorske visine, a utvrđena
je najviša kota jezerske razine na 274,5 m, te najniža
na 252,8 m. Prema morfološkoj klasifikaciji Crveno
jezero je najdublja jama Dinarskog krša koja je do
polovice ispunjena vodom, i jedna je od najdubljih
stalno potopljenih speleoloških jama u svijetu. Jezero
je zaštićeno 1964. godine, a cijelo područje sjever-
no od grada zaštićeno je 1971. godine kao značajan
krajobraz koji obuhvaća Modro i Crveno jezero kao
spomenike prirode te veći kompleks zemljišta pošu-
mljenoga crnim borom, ukupne površine 3,78 km2.
Prvi opis Crvenog jezera poslan je u svijet početkom
18. stoljeća, kad je mletački vojskovođa Ivan Zuane
Franceschi, nakon oslobođenja Imotskog od Turaka
(1717. godine), u pismu prijatelju napisao:
Mislim da sam bio još više preneražen i zadivljen kad
sam ugledao drugi bezdan (prvi je Modro jezero, nap.
aut.). Na gotovo ravnoj površini brijega, u živom ka-
menu, kao da je umjetnikova ruka uz zvuk čekića i
dlijeta urezala velik krug, te ga okomito iskopala kao
kakav nadasve dubok bunar. Grotlo ima više od pola
milje u opsegu, strmoglavo je usječeno u obujmu koje-
mu još nisu našli dna. Crven je to kamen, a nema na
njemu ni mladice ni grma da pruže utjehu tim straho-
vitim liticama. Kad vidiš te provalije, pitaš se u strahu:
a od čega potekoše? Jesu li tako načinjene od prvoga
stvaranja, ili je nekakav podzemni vulkan, sada uga-
šen, žestoko razjapio ta ždrijela rigajući lavu i podze-
mno kamenje? („La Dalmazia“, 1846. br 10)
16
Red Lake is a hydromorphological phenomenon,
a world rarity because of its unique shape, colour,
and genesis. It is located 1.5 km to the north-west of
Imotski. It was formed when underground water pits
collapsed and experts often call it a wonder of karst
because it is an abyss with slopes resembling a natural
well. It is some 200 meters in diameter and more than
500 meters deep, half of which is the depth of the water.
Its bottom has not been entirely explored yet. Josip
Roglić, a member of the Academy, carried out the first
systematic morphological and hydrological research
of Red Lake in 1937, but the data were not particularly
accurate, since technology was not particularly
advanced at the time. More accurate data on Red
Lake were provided by engineer Milivoj Petrik, who
published the results of his research in the 1950s. Petrik
found the lowest point of the bottom at 4.1 m above
sea level. He also determined the highest (274.5 m)
and the lowest (252.8 m) water level. According to the
morphological classification, Red Lake is the deepest pit
in the Dinaric karst and water fills half of it. Moreover,
it is one of the deepest speleological caves in the world
that is constantly under water. The lake was protected
in 1964 (and the whole area north of the town in 1971)
as an important landscape. It encompassed Blue Lake
and Red Lake as nature monuments, as well as a larger
forested area covered with black pine.
The first description of Red Lake dates from the
beginning of the 18th century. Ivan Zuane Franceschi,
a military officer from Venice, wrote a letter to his friend
in 1717, after the liberation of Imotski from the Turks:
I think I was even more terrified and impressed when I
saw the second abyss (the first was Blue Lake; author’s
remark). It seemed as if an artist’s hand had taken a
hammer and a chisel to carve a big circle in bare stone
on the almost flat top of the hill and cut it vertically,
like a very deep well. The crater is more than half a
mile in circumference, very steep (almost vertical), and
its bottom has not been discovered yet. The stone is
red with no bush or spring to appease those dreadful
cliffs. When you see those chasms, you ask yourself in
fear how they were created. Have they always been
like that or did some underground volcano, now
inactive, start spitting lava and underground rocks,
thus creating those wide-open mouths? (La Dalmazia,
no. 10, 1846)
17
Legenda kaže da su u jezero propali Gavanovi dvori The legend says that Gavan’s Estate (a rich man’s
kada je anđeo, prerušen u prosjaka, upozorio oholu castle) tumbled down into the lake when an angel
Gavanicu na pravednost i milosrđe, a ona mu ba- dressed as a beggar warned the lady of the house of
hato odgovorila: “Što će meni Bog tvoj, dok je meni fairness and charity and she replied arrogantly: I don’t Eto zemlja tvrda zinu, And hard ground opens,
Gavan moj!”, odbivši mu udijeliti milodar. U tom se need for your God, as long as I have my Gavan!, refusing A u zemlje utrobinu, Into the ground gut,
času zemlja potresla, a Gavan i njegovi dvori propali to give him alms. At that moment the ground trembled
su u bezdan. Provalija se ispunila vodom i legenda- and Gavan and his estate fell in the abyss. The abyss Sve uklete u tren duše In a moment all souls cursed
ma o zlim nadnaravnim bićima, čiji se jauci do dan- then filled with water and legends of evil supernatural S bijelim dvorim prosjednuše. With white castle, perish
danas čuju iz crvenoga grotla. Legendu je zabilježio beings whose howling can still be heard from the red
fra Silvestar Kutleša 1937. godine. Naknadno su je crater even today. Friar Silvestar Kutleša wrote the Niti kamen na kamenu Nor stone on stone
objavili fra I. Despot, i J.E. Tomić. U njihovim je za- legend down in 1937 and friars I. Despot and J.E. Ne osta za uspomenu. Is left for memory.
pisima prepjevana narodna pjesma o propuntavanju Tomić published it later. They also wrote down a folk
Gavanovih dvora na mjestu gdje se nalazi Crveno song which explains the fall of Gavan’s Estate into the
jezero. Pjesma je spjevana u 25 kitica, u narodnom abyss - Red Lake. The song has 25 verses written in the Sad, ko stupi do ‘vog mjesta, Now, who comes to this place,
osmercu, a stihovi vjerno dočaravaju jezovitu priču o folk meter that contains eight feet (the feature lost in
kazni zbog oholosti. translation). They vividly portray a terrifying story of a Gdje Gavana s dvorim’ nesta, Where Gavan’s castle perished,
punishment brought on by conceit, one of the greatest Jezero će naći tamo, A lake he will find there,
human flaws.
Strahovito, pusto, samo Dreadful, deserted, alone,
Radi žarka stijenja svoga For its ardent crag
Svijet Crvenim prozvao ga. The world named it Red.

Tu, po tamnoj, gluhoj noći, Here, at dark, deaf night,

Ako srca imaš proći,
Uz vilinsku čut ćeš ciku
Vukodlaka strašnu viku,
Dok nad vodom vještice se,
Ko plamteće zublje krijese.
Pass if you got a heart,
With fairies titter you will hear
Werewolf’s mighty roar,
Over water witches fly,
Like flaming teeth, they glow.

Još ćeš začut iz bezdani From abyss you will hear

Jauk duša očajani,
Čut ćeš djecu kako cvile,
Kad ih ljute muče vile.
Kosa ti se od straha ježi,
Bjež’ čovječe! Otle bježi!
Despairing howl of the souls,
Children screaming you will hear,
Tortured by angry fairies.
Your hair will shudder by fear
Run man! Run from here!

18 19
 PRVI ZARON
Zamisao o ronjenju u Crvenom jezeru rodila se šez-
desetih godina 20. stoljeća, iako još nije bilo ni nači-
na ni opreme za takav pothvat. Godine 1998. članovi
Hrvatskoga planinarskog društva “Imotski”, želeći
obilježiti 70. obljetnicu društva ronjenjem u Crvenom
jezeru, prvi put su zaronili u svibnju 1998., i to u orga-
nizaciji HPD-a i Ronilačkog kluba “Crveno jezero”.
Planinari i alpinisti spustili su ronilačku opremu niz ne-
koliko stotina metara visoke okomite litice, što je samo
po sebi bilo svojevrstan podvig.
U pomoć su pristigli speleolozi i ronioci iz Splita (S.
Božić, G. Gabrić, T. Najev, J. Bojić i J. Božić), koji su
se pridružili imotskim roniocima i planinarima (J.
Vukosavu, L. Kolovratu, S. Čelanu, B. Kukulju i G.
Karoglanu). Opremu su, do manjeg proširenja na litici
površine nekoliko kvadrata spustili članovi ekspedicije
u ruksacima. Do vode je preostalo tridesetak metara
okomite stijene koju su, pod punom ronilačkom opre-
mom, svladali uz pomoć užadi. I, konačno, zaron i prvi
dojmovi:
Jezero je izuzetno bistro, a voda nije osobito hladna.
Naša 10 mm debela ronilačka odijela odlična su zašti-
ta. Gledajući s površine vode, vidimo da su litice obra-
sle kržljavim biljkama, travom i grmljem, a jata gao-
vice plivaju oko nas. Spustili smo se do 52 m dubine,
tu zastajemo, ali Tonči Najev nastavlja; gledamo ga
kako nestaje u crnoj dubini jezera. Ipak, vraća se na-
kon nekoliko minuta. Na „Aladinu“ brojka 1,7. Prvi za-
ron u povijesti jezera, a odmah mjerim 102 m. Svaka
čast Najevu, ali meni je i ovih mojih 52 sasvim dovolj-
no. Lagano ronimo obodom uz same litice zbog sigur-
nosne dekompresije, pa nas evo opet na površini. Vani
sunce i vedar dan! Srećom, sve je snimljeno kamera-
ma HRT-a (i prikazano u sklopu serijala “Dubine”).
Veliko, sjajno iskustvo!
Luka Kolovrat, www.imotski.hr
20
FIRST DIVE
It was in the 1960s when people first came up with the
idea of diving in Red Lake, even though the equipment
and techniques for it were still inadequate. Members of
the Croatian Mountaineering Society Imotski took
the first dive in May 1998, wanting to mark the 70th
anniversary of the Society. The event was organised
by the Red Lake Diving Club. The mountaineers and
the alpinists lowered their diving equipment several
hundred meters down the steep cliffs, which was an
achievement by itself.
Speleologists and divers from Split (S. Božić, G. Gabrić,
T. Najev, J. Bojić and J. Božić) came to help divers
and the mountaineers from Imotski (J. Vukosav, L.
Kolovrat, S. Čelan, B. Kukulj and G. Karoglan). The
members of the expedition lowered the equipment
in their backpacks down to a tiny plateau on a cliff,
only several square meters large. They had some 30
meters of vertical cliff left above the water, which
they climbed down using ropes and in full diving gear.
Finally, the first dive and the first impressions:
The lake is very clear and the water was not especially
cold. Our 10-millimeter-thick diving suits were a great
protection. Looking up from the surface, we could
see poorly developed plants, grass and bushes on
the cliffs and flocks of the endemic spotted minnow
were swimming around us. We dived to a depth of
52 meters and stopped there, but Tonči Najev kept
going lower. We watched him disappear in the black
depths of the lake. After a few minutes, he came
back. We read 1.7 on “Aladdin”. It was the first dive
in the history of the lake and I could already read 102
meters. Well done, Najev, but those 52 meters are
quite enough for me. We dived along the edge of the
lake, near the cliffs because of safety decompression
and we emerged to the surface again. It was a
sunny and clear day outside! Luckily, everything was
recorded by the cameras of the Croatian Television
(and shown as a part of the serial “Depths”).
A great, fantastic experience!
Luka Kolovrat, wwvw.imotski.hr
21
22 23
 VELIKA EKSPEDICIJA
JESEN 1998.
U jesen iste godine međunarodna ekspedicija pod
vodstvom dr. sc. Mladena Garašića, u kojoj su sudje-
lovala čak 43 člana, istražuje dubine Crvenoga jezera.
Svesrdno im pomažu imotski planinari i ronioci. Na
površini vode sastavljena je splav koja služi kao plat-
forma, a do nje su tone opreme transportirane priruč-
nom žičarom. Svakodnevno je ronilo po desetak ro-
nilaca. Ralph Haslinger uspio je, uz pomoć trimiksa,
zaroniti na 154 m, a Thomas Behrend na čak 181 m
dubine, što je jedan od najdubljih zarona ostvarenih
u Hrvatskoj. Samohodna ronilica „Sea lion“ spustila
se na 280 m dubine i, konačno, prvi put snimila dno.
Istraživanja su potvrdila da je Crveno jezero duboko
više od 300 m.
U ekspediciji “Crveno jezero 98“ nije potpuno istra-
ženo dno jezera koje se nastavlja u dubinu, no ipak je
ustanovljeno da je jezero bitno dublje i šire od dosa-
dašnjih spoznaja, pa je tako izmjerena najniža točka
na 6 m ispod razine mora. Pronađeni su suhi i poto-
pljeni špiljski kanali, proširenja, kanali koji dovode i od-
vode vodu u jezero i iz njega. Prema približnoj procjeni,
jezero je golemi spremnik s najmanje 16 milijuna ku-
bičnih metara pitke vode. Geodetska snimka koja je
tom prilikom napravljena treba se u budućnosti upot-
puniti rezultatima novih istraživanja.
S obzirom na zanimljivost i ljepotu, ronjenje u još uvi-
jek tajnovitome Crvenom jezeru i dalje će ostati osobit
izazov za buduće istraživače.
Luka Kolovrat, www.imotski.hr
24
GREAT EXPEDITION
AUTUMN 1998
The same year in autumn an international expedition
of 43 members led by Mladen Garašić, Ph. D. explored
the depths of Red Lake with unselfish help from the
mountaineers and divers of Imotski. There was a raft
on the surface that served as a platform. Tones of
equipment were lowered to it by an improvised cable
car. Ten divers went under every day. Ralph Haslinger
managed to dive 154 meters using Trimix (a mixture
of gases for deep diving) and Thomas Behrend went
down 181 meters, which is still one of the deepest
dives in Croatia. Self-propelled remote controlled
submersible Sea Lion went down to 280 meters
and, finally, the first photographs of the bottom were
taken. The research confirmed that Red Lake was
deeper than 300 meters.
The Red Lake 98 expedition did not explore the
bottom of the lake completely, but it discovered that
it was much deeper and wider than it had originally
been thought: the lowest point measured was at 6
meters under sea level. The expedition also discovered
dry and submerged cave canals, widenings, and
canals for filling and draining of the lake. The lake is a
large water tank that is estimated to contain at least
16 million cubic meters of potable water. The geodetic
footage made in 1998 is yet to be completed with the
results of future research.
Considering the beauty and the intriguing character
of the mystery lake, diving in it will remain a special
challenge for future explorers.
Luka Kolovrat, wwvw.imotski.hr
25
26 27
BASE-JUMPING 2007
Provaliju od nekoliko stotina metara stijena i vode, str-
mo obrušenih u dubinu, novovjeki adrenalinski ovisnici
odabrali su za svoje smione skokove s padobranskim
krilom, popularni base-jumping. Oko tisuću gledate-
lja razmještenih na vidilici i po liticama Crvenog jeze-
ra bili su svjedoci uistinu velikog spektakla. Sedmoricu
skakača iz Hrvatske, Rusije i Slovenije osiguravalo je
dvanaest pripadnika Gorske službe spašavanja, uz
logistiku Turističke zajednice Imotski. Događaj su
zabilježile kamere snimateljske ekipe Stipe Božića te
svih nacionalnih TV kuća, Reutersa i mnogih drugih.
A nije počelo baš bajkovito. Ujutro je padala kiša, a
u takvim vremenskim uvjetima skakanje i spuštanje
ljude u grotlo jezera bila bi opasna, gotovo nemogu-
ća misija. Oko devet sati vrijeme se poboljšalo i pri-
preme su započele. Spuštanje čamca u vodu trajalo je
dosta dugo. Istodobno, pripadnici GSS-a na sjevernoj
litici osiguravali su novinare i snimatelje, kao i mjesto
za odraz skakača.
Nešto poslije 13 sati čamac je bio u vodi, u njemu
djelatnik TZ-a Imotski Stipe Čelan. Nekoliko trenuta-
ka nakon toga sve je bilo spremno za prvi skok, koji
je izveo Robert Pečnik. Nakon njega, svakih desetak
minuta, novi se skakač odražavao u avanturu „du-
boku“ 280 metara, a gledateljima je zastajao dah.
Prema staroj izreci da šećer dolazi na kraju, ruski ska-
kač Jurij Kuznetzov skočio je posljednji i otvorio pa-
dobran tek osamdesetak metara od površine vode.
Erupcija oduševljenja i pljesak prestravljenih gledate-
lja bila je nagrada hrabrom Rusu. Zahvaljujući izu-
zetno atraktivnim snimkama base-jumpinga koje su
obišle Hrvatsku i svijet, Imotski i Crveno jezero dobili
su neviđen publicitet.
Luka Kolovrat, www.imotski.hr
28
BASE-JUMPING 2007
A several hundred meter deep abyss of rock and
water, steeply swooping into the depth, is particularly
attractive to modern adrenaline junkies: it is perfect
for their daring jumps with parachutes, popularly
called BASE jumping. Thousands of spectators found
a nice spot on the lookout of Red Lake and on the
surrounding cliffs to witness a truly grand spectacle.
Twelve members of the Mountain Rescue Service
(MRS), logistical supported by the Tourist Board of
Imotski, were there to protect seven base jumpers
from Croatia, Russia, and Slovenia. Stipe Božić’s
camera crew, all national TV companies, Reuters, and
many others filmed the whole event.
It did not start too well, though. It was raining in the
morning and jumping or descending into the lake in
those weather conditions would be very dangerous,
almost impossible. Around 9 o’clock the sky cleared
up and preparations started. Lowering a boat into the
lake took a long time. During that time, the members
of the MRS secured the reporters and the visitors on
the northern cliff, as well as the jumping point.
After 1 p.m. the boat was in the water together with
Stipe Čelan, an employee of the Tourist Board of
Imotski. A few moments later, everything was ready
for the first jump, done by Robert Pečnik. After that, a
jumper would leap into a 280-meter-deep adventure
every ten minutes and the spectators would be
left breathless. And, to round it all up, the Russian
jumper Jurij Kuznetzov jumped last and opened
his parachute only 80 meters above the water level.
Standing ovations and a rapturous applause of the
thrilled and terrified crowd was a reward to the brave
Russian. Thanks to fantastic photographs of the event,
published in Croatia and around the world, Imotski
and Red Lake got unexpected publicity.
Luka Kolovrat, wwvw.imotski.hr
29
POŠTANSKA MARKA
Poštanske su marke jedinstveni atribut državnosti
svake zemlje. Hrvatske poštanske marke već seda-
mnaestu godinu promiču hrvatske vrijednosti koje
su duboko ukorijenjene u europsku kulturu i tradici-
ju. Marke su stoga najmanji, ali i najučinkovitiji pro-
motori Hrvatske, čija baština na poštanskim pošiljka-
ma stiže u najudaljenije kutke našeg planeta. Tako i
Crveno jezero, najpoznatiji prirodni fenomen koji su
prepoznali filatelisti i ljubitelji maraka, putuje diljem
Hrvatske i svijeta.
Od 35 maraka izdanih u 2007. godini, najveći broj
glasova osvojila je prigodna poštanska marka u blo-
ku Crveno jezero, nominalne vrijednosti 10 kuna.
Time je proglašena najljepšom poštanskom mar-
kom, a autorsko je djelo renomiranih zagrebačkih di-
zajnera Orsata Frankovića i Ivane Vučić, dok je kao
predložak korištena fotografija Luke Kolovrata, sni-
mljena iz zraka. Inicijativu za tu marku pokrenula je
Turistička zajednica Imotski.
Budući da je Hrvoje Lončar, Imoćanin, u to vrijeme
bio direktor marketinga u Hrvatskoj pošti, posebno
je ponosan na to što je upravo pod njegovom in-
gerencijom marka Crveno jezero izdana i proglaše-
na najljepšom markom u Hrvatskoj za 2007. godinu.
30
a red lake STAMP
Stamps are a unique tribute to a country’s
independence. Croatian stamps have been promoting
Croatian values, rooted in European culture and
tradition, for seventeen years. Therefore, stamps are the
smallest but the most efficient promoters of Croatia:
Croatian heritage reaches remote parts of our planet
through stamps on parcels and mail. That is how Red
Lake, a well-known natural phenomenon recognized
by philatelists and stamp lovers, travels all over Croatia
and the world. Last year the Croatian Post organised
the contest for the most beautiful stamp of the year
for the 11th time.
Out of 35 stamps published in 2007, the block stamp
Red Lake of the nominal value of 10kn won most votes
and became the stamp of the year. Its authors are Orsat
Franković and Ivana Vučić, renowned designers from
Zagreb. An aerial photo of Red Lake by Luka Kolovrat
was used as a template. The Tourist Board of Imotski
started the initiative to print the stamp.
At that time, marketing director of the Croatian Post
was Hrvoje Lončar, originally from Imotski. He is
especially proud of having supervised the publishing of
the Red Lake stamp which was then declared Croatian
stamp of the year 2007.
31
PROSINAC 2011.
Zbog iznimno niskog vodostaja Crvenog jezera na nje-
govoj zapadnoj strani pokazale su se dvije pećine koje
dotad nisu bile vidljive.
Sedam članova HPD-a Imotski i Ronilačkog kluba
Crveno jezero (Luka Kolovrat, Ante Fedor Kukavica,
Branimir Jukić, Davor Markota, Ante Karin, Milan
Gudelj i Ante Đerek) organizirali su ekspediciju radi
premijernog ulaska u pećine. S obzirom na to da je
prethodnih nekoliko dana vodostaj Crvenog jezera po-
čeo postupno rasti, prijetila je opasnost da voda opet
prekrije pećine. Stoga smo odlučili što prije otkriti taj-
nu tih dotad neviđenih otvora na liticama.
Prepuni dojmova, Fedor i Brane ustanovili su da se
nakon stotinjak metara pećina račva na tri strane.
Jedan prolaz vodi u vis i povezan je s pećinom koja je
sedamdesetak metara iznad njih, a u koju su ronioci
ušli još 1998., u sklopu velike međunarodne ekspedici-
je. Drugi se odvojak obrušava u dubinu, a treći skreće
prema jugu.
Krenuli smo prema zapadu, te naišli na kamene dvo-
rane promjera 10x8 metara, visoke desetak metara, u
kojima nema ničega osim mulja i blata. Od njih dalje
vodi uski prolaz izbrazdan vodom u čvrstim stijena-
ma, kojim smo prehodali tristotinjak metara u dubi-
nu, ali oprema nam nije dopuštala da se upuštamo
u daljnje istraživanje. Nakon toga prolaz se potpuno
sužava, sve je blatno i mokro.
Ovo je prvi put u povijesti Imotskoga i njegova Crvenog
jezera da je ljudska noga kročila u tu pećinu, a tko zna
kada će opet razina vode biti tako niska da će to po-
novno biti moguće - glasilo je izvješće sretnog dvojca.
Cijeli je događaj sa sigurnih visokih litica pratilo mnoš-
tvo znatiželjnika.
Luka Kolovrat, www.gorgonija.com
32
DECEMBER 2011
Due to a very low water level in Red Lake, on the
western banks of it, two caves immerged that were
never visible until now.
Seven members of Divers Club Red Lake Imotski
and Croatian Mountaineers Society of Imotski (Luka
Kolovrat, Ante Fedor Kukavica, Branimir Jukić,
Davor Markota, Ante Karin, Milan Gudelj and Ante
Đerek), organized an expedition to enter these caves
for the first time ever. As the water level slowly started
to rise up again, there was a chance that water covers
the caves again, they decided to explore the secrets of
these caves on the cliffs.
Full of impressions, Fedor and Brane witnessed that
after couple of hundreds of meters the cave is splitting
into three directions. One passage leads up and is
connected with the cave above that was explored
in 1998 as a part of great international expedition.
Second passage sinks into the deep, while the third
one bends towards the south.
We started moving westwards and came upon two
chambers 10x8 meters and 10 meters in height, with
nothing but mud and sludge in them. Narrow passage,
carved by water leads on 300 meters in length, but the
equipment did not allow us to go any further. After
that the passage narrows down and is also covered in
mud and sludge, and is very damp.
This is the first time in history of Imotski and Red Lake
that human foot steped into that cave. Who knows
when water will be this low again. – happy duo
reported after coming out.
This event was followed by many people watching it
from safe cliffs high up above the water.
Luka Kolovrat, www.gorgonija.com
33
34 35
TRAVANJ 2012.
Obilne kiše koje su padale proteklih tjedana značaj-
no su povećali vodostaje u imotskim jezerima. Modro
je tako naraslo za nekih dvadesetak metara i sada je
vodostaj nešto iznad 40 metara. Povećanje vodostaja
u Crvenom je još i veće, gotovo 40 metara i Crveno je
sada duboko oko 300 metara.
Upravo je taj visok vodostaj bio izazov i motiv člano-
vima speleološkog odsjeka HPD Imotski Anti Fedoru
Kukavici i Luki Kolovratu te splitskim speleolozima
Branimiru Jukiću, Filku Kapetanoviću i Danijelu
Krstuloviću Opari za silazak u Crveno i posjet dvje-
ma manjim špiljama.
Špilje koje su istraživane prije pet mjeseci sada su pe-
desetak metara pod vodom, a ove današnje su osjet-
no manje, svega petnaestak metara duge, ali zato ni-
šta manje zanimljive.
Jedna je djelomično pod vodom i u njoj je moguće do-
živjeti predivnu igru svjetlosti, a u drugoj je nađen ko-
mad oplate sa srušenog američkog bombardera iz II.
svjetskog rata.
Također, primijećena su i velika jata endemske gaovi-
ce što je podatak koji će zasigurno veseliti sve ljubitelje
ovih malih ali čudesnih riba.
Luka Kolovrat, www.gorgonija.com
36
APRIL 2012
Heavy rains in April have risen the water levels of lakes
around Imotski. Blue lake water level went up for 20
meters. Rising of water level in Red Lake is even bigger
for about 40 meters, so depth of it is now around 300
meters.
This rising of water level in all the lakes was motive
for members of speleological section of Croatian
Mountaineers Society of Imotski (HPD), Luka
Kolovrat, Ante Fedor Kukavica, and speleologists
from Split Branimir Jukić, Filko Kapetanović and
Danijel Krstulović Opara, to go down into the Red
Lake and explore two smaller caves.
One cave was partially under the water and inside it
a mystical game of light was visible. Inside the second
cave, a part of downed WWII American bomber
fuselage was found.
Also, some flocks of endemic fish Imotska Gaovica
were seen. This sighting will make all ichthyologists
very happy.
Luka Kolovrat, www.gorgonija.com
37
38 39
40 41
 Modro jezero nalazi se na rubu grada, u grotlu du-
bokom od 300 do 500 m. Najveća mu je dužina 800
m, a širina 500 m, ali te dimenzije znatno variraju
ovisno o vodostaju, pa jezero katkad tijekom ljeta i
presušiti. Dubina vode oscilira, a često dosegne i 100
MODRO JEZERO BLUE LAKE m. Najviši vodostaj od 147 m voda je dosegla davne
1914. godine. Razlog takvog kolebanja vodostaja su
estavele na njegovu dnu, koje se u kišnom razdoblju
ponašaju kao izvori, a u sušnim razdobljima postaju
uviri koji gutaju vodu.
Voda je lijepe modre boje, zbog čega se jezero i zove
Modro. Do vode postoji pristupni put koji vodi go-
tovo do samog dna. Jezero je ljeti omiljeno kupalište
Imoćana, a kad presuši, djeca na dnu igraju nogo-
met, što je također svojevrsna atrakcija.
Nažalost, u Modrom jezeru je započeo pro-
ces zatrpavanja, osobito vidljiv sa sjeverne strane.
Presušivanja su sve češća, pa se nadolaženje vode
nakon presušivanja iščekuje s velikom pozornošću i
određenom zabrinutošću.
O Modrom jezeru napisano je bezbroj tekstova,
ispjevano stotine pjesama, ali do danas nisu prona-
đene prave riječi kojima bi se opisala njegova ljepota.
Svakome tko je odrastao uz njegove obale Imotski
i Modro jezero dio su iste paradigme o postojanju
Imoćana. Provodeći ljeta uz njegovu vodu, ljudi su
se naučili odgovornosti čuvajući prirodu ili nadzirući
djecu neplivače, u koje su uvijek uprte oči odraslih,
bez obzira na to o čijoj je djeci riječ. Svako je jezer-
sko iskustvo dobra investicija u budućnost, djeca se
na njegovim obalama ničemu lošem ne mogu nau-
čiti, a kad odrastu, jezero ih vraća u mladost, krijepi
i obnavlja.
Svakoga ljeta ponovno nalazimo onu istu bezvreme-
nu ljepotu koju smo prošlog ljeta ostavili. Boja jezer-
ske vode varira od modrozelene do tirkizne, ovisno
o visini vodostaja i vremenskim uvjetima. Namjernici
toliko lijepoga izgovore o jezeru, a Imoćanima je po-
sve prirodno da im takva ljepota po rođenju pripada.
Zaplivate li blještavom površinom u ljetno podne, di-
gnete li pogled prema modrom nebu, vidite oko sebe
litice, sipine, stijene i skakala što ih samo volja nebeska
sprječava da se ne obruše. Po obzoru se splela kolajna
42
Blue Lake is located at the end of the town, in a 300
to 500 meter deep crater. Its maximum length is 800
meters and the width 500 meters, but those dimensions
change considerably, depending on the water level -
the lake sometimes goes completely dry in summer.
The water level oscillates, often reaching 100 meters.
The highest, measured in 1914, reached 147 meters.
The oscillations are due to estavels at the bottom of
the lake, which act as springs during the rainy season
and as drains during the dry season. The water is of a
nice blue colour, which gave it its name. The access
road leads almost to the bottom. In summer, the lake
is the local population’s favourite swimming pool and
children play football at the bottom when it dries out,
which is a special attraction.
Unfortunately, the process of backfilling is well under
way, especially obvious from the north side. The lake
dries up more and more often, and it is with great
attention and certain apprehension that the locals wait
for the water to come back after the dry season.
Many articles have been written about the lake and
many songs have been sung, but to this day the words
that would do justice to its beauty have not been
found. For those who were growing up by the lake’s
shores, Imotski and Blue Lake are parts of the same
existential paradigm. Spending summers by its waters,
people have learned how to take responsibility: they
protect the nature there or keep a wakeful eye on all
children who cannot swim, even though they are not
necessarily their own. Every lake-related experience is a
good investment in the future. Children cannot learn
anything wrong by its shores and when they grow up
the lake brings them back to their childhood, refreshes
them and renews them. Every summer we rediscover
that same timeless beauty we left there the previous
summer. The colour of the water varies from blue-
green to turquoise, depending on the water level and
weather conditions. Chance travellers speak so nicely
of the lake and those living in Imotski find it so natural
that such a beauty befalls them by their very birthright.
If you go for a swim over the shiny surface on a
summer afternoon, look up towards the blue sky
and all around you will see cliffs, rockslides, boulders,
and protrusions convenient to jump from that only
a divine force stops from swooping down. A ring of
43
mrke borovine što odvaja ovu oaze vode od vanjskog
svijeta, usred usijanoga kamenjara. Jezero je toliko doj-
mljivo da je teško izreći kakvi se osjećaji bude kad opu-
šteni zauzmete mjesto na nekoj stijeni, i s užitkom blu-
dite po namreškanoj modroj vodi.
Maja Delić Peršen, Slobodna Dalmacija, 2005.
44
black pines on the horizon separates this water oasis NATURAE CONVENINTER VIVE
in the middle of a boiling rocky ground from the
outside world. The lake is so impressive that it is hard (Živi u skladu s prirodom)
to articulate all the feelings that overwhelm you when
you take your place on a rock and relax, your eyes
erring with joy over the blue rippled water.
Ekološko društvo LIPA
Maja Delić Peršen, Slobodna Dalmacija, 2005
Sustavna briga o imotskim jezerima datira u dale-
ku 1904. godinu, kada je na inicijativu Šoltanina, dr.
Josipa Mladinova, osnovano „Društvo za poljep-
šanje Imotskoga - Jezero“. Dr. Mladinov se oduše-
vio netaknutim prirodnim ljepotama Imotskoga,
osobito Modrim jezerom na čijem je obodu sagra-
dio malu bolnicu i vilu za stanovanje. Uz pomoć
uglednika iz društvenog i političkog života, vlasti-
tim je novcem izgradio 1100 m duge serpentine u
Modrom jezeru, a društvo je širilo ekološku kulturu
i bavilo se pošumljavanjem krške goleti. Preranom
smrću dr Mladinova (1916.), društvo se ugasilo.
Nakon punih 15 godina mirovanja, točnije 1931.,
imotski intelektualci osnovali su novo „Društvo
za poljepšavanje mjesta i unaprjeđenje turizma -
Lipa“ koje se, između ostaloga, brinulo za održavanje
putova u Modrom jezeru, a širili su i ekološku svijest
održavajući predavanja po školama diljem Imotske
krajine.
„LIPA“ je obnovila rad 1989. godine; danas osobitu
pozornost pridaje zaštiti voda i okoliša Modroga
i Crvenog jezera, te izvorištima rijeke Vrljike.
Trenutačno se tim područjima nastoji osigurati viša
razina zaštite, tj. proglasiti ih parkom prirode ili na-
cionalnim parkom, kako bi se zaustavila devastacija,
sačuvale endemske i autohtone bilje i životinjske vr-
ste te smanjilo onečišćenje tla i voda.
NATURAE CONVENINTER VIVE
(Live in harmony with nature)
Ecological Society LIPA
Systematic improvement of the lakes of Imotski dates
back to 1904, when the Society for Improving
Imotski – Jezero (The Lake) was founded, following
an initiative of Josip Mladinov, Ph.D. from the island
of Šolta. Mladinov was thrilled by the untouched
natural beauties of Imotski, especially by Blue Lake
- he built a small hospital and a villa to live in on the
edge of it. Aided by socially and politically prominent
members of the community, he financed the
building of 1100-meter-long serpentines in Blue Lake
and, meanwhile, the Society was raising ecological
awareness and planting trees on the barren slopes of
the lake. Following Miladinov’s premature death (in
1916), the Society ceased to exist. After 15 years of
inactivity, in 1931 to be exact, intellectuals from Imotski
founded a new Society for Improving the Town
and Promoting Tourism – LIPA. Among many other
activities, the society was in charge of maintaining the
paths in Blue Lake and increasing ecological awareness
through lectures given in schools all over the Imotski
region.
LIPA renewed its activities in 1989. Today they focus
on the protection of waters and the area surrounding
Blue and Red Lake, as well as on the springs of the river
Vrljika. Currently, they intend to raise the preservation
level of those areas, i.e. to make them nature parks or
national parks in order to stop devastation, protect
endemic and autochthonic plants and animals, and
minimize soil and water pollution.t
45
46 47
ASANAGINICA
Proslavio se Imotski po “Žalosnoj pjesanci plemeni-
te Asanaginice” koju je opat Fortis zapisao 1774. na
svom putu po surovoj zemlji Morlaka, iza Biokova,
velike majke Sredozemlja, medju stočarima i ratnici-
ma priprostih i plemenitih osjećaja, što su nepisme-
ni, svoju poeziju i povijest znali naizust. Pjesma je to
u kojoj nema krivca, majka umire od osobne boli.
Ukraj Modrog jezera u borovu gaju, imoćani joj sr-
cem odredili grob. Pjesma je do danas naprevođeniji
književni tekst preveden na više od pedeset jezika.
48
ASANAGINICA
Imotski became famous by “Sad song of noble
Asanaginica“ which abbot Fortis has written in 1774,
on his journey through rugged lands of Morlacs behind
Biokovo mountain, the great mother of Mediterranean,
among cattlemen and warriors of unsophisticated and
noble emotions, which knew their poetry and history
by rote, despite of their inability to write. It is a song
where no one is to blame, mother dies by inner pain.
Just near the Blue Lake, in a pine grove, souls of Imotski
set her grave to be with their hearts. The song has been
translated to more than fifty languages.
49
50 51

VILINSKO POČIVALO
(...) Mladići su gledali vilinsko kolo, potpuno zanese-
ni ljepotom devet dugokosih vila oko čijih su maga-
rećih papaka lelujali svileni skuti. Suspregnuli su uz-
dahe divljenja da ne odaju svoju prisutnost. Ljudska
bića nisu mogla zamisliti, a kamoli vidjeti ovakav pri-
zor. Do sada.
Taj ljupki ples potrajao je neko vrijeme, a onda se vile
spuste do vode i pokupe osušeno rublje razastrto po
stijenama. Zasjednu ponovo na zaravan gdje su do
maločas igrale kolo, držeći svaka svoj zavežljaj pod
rukom.
52
FAIRIES RESTING PLACE
(…) Young men were looking at fairies dancing their
circle dance, completely breathless from the beauty
of nine long-haired fairies with silk skirts floating
around their donkey hoofs. They held back their sighs
of admiration, not to reveal their presence. Until then,
humans could not have imagined (let alone see) a
spectacle like that.
The lovely dance lasted for a while and then the fairies
went down to the water to pick up their dry clothes
spread on the rocks. They sat down on the ledge where
they had danced in a circle a minute ago, each holding
her swag under her arm.
- Da nam je, posestrime, da ovo počivalo bude samo
naše! Za naše kolo! – reče jedna.
- I da se zna da je vilinsko!
- Kad bi bilo okruglo i veliko koliko i naše kolo kad ga
razvijemo!
- … pa da ga puni Mjesec o ponoći obasja srebrom!
- Nikada ovdje ne bi bilo zla i nevremena! – prva će
opet.
- Iz svoje bismo pećine čuvale grad i jezero, sokoliće,
sove i divlje golubove, a slatko divlje grožđe, kupine i
maline zrele bi djeci za okrepu. Svi koji bi se došli ras-
hladiti u modroj vodi za vrelih ljetnih popodneva uži-
vali bi našu zaštitu.
Odu vile sa svog noćnog sastajališta prema Vilinskoj
pećini, pa iako ih više nisu mogli vidjeti, mladići su još
osluškivali njihove zvonke glasove kako se udaljavaju.
Pod dojmom noćnog prizora i razgovora malih jezer-
skih vila, odluče udovoljiti vilinskoj želji.
Sutradan u tajnosti uzmu čekiće, špice i ostali zidarski
alat, spuste se u jezero te kamenim zidom obzidaju
počivalo da bude okruglo, upravo onakvo kakvo je vi-
linsko kolo, i da ga puni Mjesec može obuhvatiti svo-
jim sjajnim krugom. Na stijeni iznad počivala počeše
klesati natpis: VILINSKO POČIVALO
Kad su završavali zadnje slovo, začuju posve osobit
zvuk, kao da voda lagano vrije na vatri; ispod svakog
kamena oživjeli su mali izvori, kako se to događalo već
tisućama godina.
Otada traje neraskidiva veza ljudi iz grada i vila jezer-
kinja, a mirisni vrijesak i kadulja kite malu vidilicu na
kuku, iznad modre vode (…)
(Iz priča „U vilinskom kolu“ Maje Delić Peršen)
- Oh, my sisters, if it only this resting place could be
ours alone! For our dance! - said one of them - And I
wish people would leave it only to us!
- If it could be round and big, just like our circle is when
we dance!
- … and if the full moon could light it up at midnight
with its silvery light!
- Evil and bad times would never come here! – The
first fairy said again. – We would protect the town,
and the lake, and hawks, and owls, and wild pigeons
from our cave. Sweet grapes, blackberries and
raspberries would grow and children would eat them
for refreshment. All those that would come to cool off
in the blue water during scorching summer afternoons
would enjoy our protection.
The fairies left their nocturnal meeting place and went
towards the Fairies’ Cave. Even though the young men
could not see them any more, they could still hear
their voices echo in the distance.
Impressed by that nocturnal scene and the
conversation between the little lake fairies, they
decided to fulfil the fairies’ wish.
The next day they secretly took hammers, chisels and
other stonemason’s tools and went down to the lake.
They enclosed the place with a stone wall, creating a
big, round surface that resembled the fairies dancing
and the moon shone down on it with its bright silvery
light. They carved in a sign into a rock above it:
FAIRIES’ RESTING PLACE
When they carved the last letter, they heard a very
peculiar sound, like water slowly boiling above a fire.
Small springs came to life under each stone, as it had
been happening for thousands of years.
Since then, there has been an unbreakable bond
between the locals and the fairies of the lake. Heather
and sage decorate the little lookout on a ledge above
the blue water, bathing it in their scent.
(From the stories “In the Fairies circle” by Maja Delić
Peršen)
53
RONJENJE U MODROM JEZERU
Potraga za Gavanovim blagom
Stoljetna legenda o postanku Crvenog jezera zorno
je prenesena i predstavljena u Modrom jezeru. Priča
kaže da je bahatoga, prebogatog Gavana, anđeo ka-
znio zbog oholosti, a njegovi su se dvori propuntali
u utrobu zemlje, na mjestu gdje se stvorilo Crveno
jezero. Od siline trešnje Gavanovo se blago rasulo
Imotskom krajinom. Tako su tri škrinjice sa zlatom
upale u Modro jezero, udaljeno samo kilometar od
Crvenoga.
Turistička zajednica Imotski organizirala je neviđeni
spektaklu u Modrom jezeru. Dvadeset petorica roni-
laca iz šest gradova, tražili su Gavanovo blago poto-
pljeno u bakrenim škrinjama. I imali su sreću!
U prvoj škrinjici, na dubini od dvadeset metara, pro-
nađen je zlatni grb grada Imotskoga, te dosta sitnog
novca: lipa i kuna. Pola sata kasnije druga je škrinjica
pronađena na istoj dubini, a treća je ostala zakopana
u mulju, u blizini velikih jezerskih stijena, i ostala je
ondje čekati neke nove, buduće ronioce.
- Ovo je fantastičan doživljaj, prelijepo jezero i ideja o
pronalaženju potopljenog blaga! Sretan sam što sam
sudjelovao, a doći ću i dogodine! – rekao je jedan od
ronilaca.
Traženje Gavanova blaga jedna je u nizu aktivnosti
koje TZ Imotski organizira s ciljem promoviranja lje-
pota imotskih jezera. Za kraj, roniocima je ostao i
dodatni trening: teške boce za ronjenje i ostalu opre-
mu morali su po suncu i vrućini izvući iz jezerskoga
grotla. No kako kažu ljudi, sve se loše brzo zaboravi,
a ostaju samo dobra sjećanja. Za to je dovoljan samo
jedan pogled na predivno Modro jezero.
54
DIVING IN THE BLUE LAKE
A search for Gavan’s treasure
The hundreds of years old legend about the origin of
Red Lake was relocated and presented in Blue Lake. The
story says that an arrogant, rich Gavan was punished
by an angel for his insolence and his estate fell into the
ground where Red Lake is today. Due to the resulting
violent tremble, Gavan’s treasure was scattered all over
the Imotski region and three chests of gold fell into
Blue Lake, only a kilometer away.
The Tourist Board of Imotski organized an
unprecedented spectacle in Blue Lake: twenty-five
young divers from six towns tried to find Gavan’s
treasure sunk in copper chests. They were lucky!
The first chest, found at a depth of 20 meters, contained
a golden crest of the town of Imotski and some coins.
Half an hour later, the second chest was found at the
same depth and the third one remained buried in the
mud by the high lake cliffs, waiting for some future
divers.
- This is a fantastic experience, a beautiful lake and the
idea of seeking a sunken treasure …! I am happy to be a
part of it all and I’m coming back next year! – said one
of the divers.
The search for Gavan’s treasure was one of many
activities organized by the Tourist Board of Imotski
with the aim of promoting the beauty of the lakes of
Imotski. The event ended with one last challenge for
the divers: they had to bring the heavy air tanks and
other gear out of the crater in the sun and the heat.
Nevertheless, people say that all bad things are quickly
forgotten and only good memories remain. One look
at the beautiful Blue Lake is enough to prove it.t
55
JEZERSKE PTICE
skokovi
Turistička zajednica grada Imotskog svakoga ljeta
organizira manifestaciju Jezerske ptice – natjecanje
skakača u vodu sa strmih litica Modrog jezera – ne-
svakidašnju atrakciju onih kojima je izazov sastavni
dio svakodnevice. 2007. su godine, unatoč stogodiš-
njoj tradiciji prema kojoj su skokovi rezervirani samo
za domaće znalce, skakali i gosti, tj. poznati skakači sa
Staroga mosta u Mostaru. Odlukom Ocjenjivačkog
suda, mostarski je predstavnik pobijedio domaće
skakače. Bio je to vrhunski skok s visine od 14 m, a
domaći predstavnik, iako nije odnio pobjedu, skočio
je lastu s 20 m, baš kako dolikuje imotskoj tradiciji
odličnih skakača, o kojima se dugo pričaju priče, a
njihova slava traje generacijama. Toga je dana ska-
kalo petnaest odvažnih mladića, što na glavu, što na
noge, a uzbuđenje među gledateljima bilo je gotovo
opipljivo.
Organizirana je i prezentacija jezerskih „domaćih ži-
votinja“, tj. bezopasnih zmija bjelouški koje kupači
oduvijek love, a potom ih brižno puštaju na slobodu
jer su one čistači jezera. Cijelu atrakciju u Modrom
jezeru na poseban su način oplemenile članice
Splitskog kluba sinkroniziranog plivanja “Dolfine“,
koje su izvele nekoliko lijepih i atraktivnih točaka.
56
BIRDS OF THE LAKE -
JUMPS
Every summer the Tourist Board of Imotski organizes
a happening called The Birds of the Lake – a
competition for jumpers who dive into Blue Lake
from the steep surrounding cliffs, which is an unusual
attraction for all those who strive to make challenges
part of their daily routine. According to a hundred-
year old tradition, the jumps are the privilege of the
local population only. However, this year (in 2007),
there were guest jumpers - well-known jumpers from
the Old Bridge of Mostar (the name Mostar in fact
means an old bridge). The Panel of Judges decided that
a representative from Mostar won the competition. It
was a perfect jump from a 14 meter high cliff, whereas
a local jumper did a swallow dive from 20 meters, in
accordance with the tradition of Imotski. Stories are
told about the jumpers long after the event and their
glory lasts for generations. Fifteen daring young men
jumped that day, there were feet dives and head dives,
and the excitement of the crowd became almost
tangible.
There was a presentation about the domestic animals
living in the lake, non-poisonous ring-snakes that
swimmers hunt in summer and then set free, for
they are the cleaners of the lake. The whole event
ended in a very special way - Dolfine, members of
the Synchronized Swimming Club from Split, gave
several beautiful and attractive performances.
57
 Visina, modrina, Heights, azure,
Stine pune dice, Cliffs full of children,
Jata imotske lipote, Flocks of the beauty of Imotski,
Jezerske tice. The birds of the Lake.

Veru se lito cilo, Climbing throughout the summer,

Penju, puzu uz strminu. Reaching the top, crawling up the slope,
Onda polete ko iz gnjizda, Then flying down from the nest
u modrinu, u dubinu. Into the blue, into the deep.

U njima nema straja, They know no fear,

Jedan drugom puno sliči, They are all alike,
junaci mali, Little heroes,
Imotski sokolići. Little falcons of Imotski.

Velimir Braco Ćosić Velimir Braco Ćosić

58 59
travanj 2013.
Rekordno visok vodostaj Modrog jezera bio je pra-
vi mamac za članove RK Crveno jezero koji su že-
ljeli podvodnim fotografijama ovjekovječiti ovogo-
dišnji fenomen. Uz domaće ronioce Ivicu Ćosića,
Tonćija Petričevića, Antu Fedora Kukavicu i Luku
Kolovrata, pojačanje nam je stiglo i iz Splita u vidu
Vedrane Vidović i Tome Vrdoljaka.
Temperatura vode na površini bila je 13 stupnjeva, a
na 25 metara dubine temperatura je bila 10 stupnje-
va. Tom prigodom izmjerena je i dubina vode, a ona
iznosi točno 103 metra.
Unatoč tome što svi oni koji su bili pod vodom iza
sebe imaju stotine zarona, roniti među borovima, br-
šljanom, rascvjetanim rašeljkama i grmovima bilo
je uistinu svima jedinstveno i neponovljivo iskustvo.
Poseban doživljaj bilo je ronjenje oko poznatog otoči-
ća s čempresom gdje je voda bila neuobičajeno bistra,
a ugođaj je bio sličan morskom zaronu niz liticu.
Cijelu sliku upotpunili su i kajaci na površini jezera kao
i stotine posjetitelja koji su na ovaj način iskoristili to-
pao proljetni dan.
Luka Kolovrat, www.gorgonija.com
60
april 2013
One of the all-time highs of water level in the Blue Lake
was a true magnet for underwater photographers of
Diving Club “Red Lake”. Alongside our local divers
Ivica Ćosić, Tonći Petričević, Ante Fedor Kukavica
and Luka Kolovrat, the expedition was completed
with colleagues from Split Vedrana Vidović and
Tomo Vrdoljak.
Surface temperature of the lake was 13 degrees
centigrade, while temperature at 25 meters below
surface was 10 degrees. The divers measured the exact
depth of the lake at 103 meters.
Even though the divers partook in hundreds of
expeditions before this one, everyone was impressed
by the unique opportunity to dive among cypresses
and bushes in bloom. The divers likened the experience
of diving around the famous cypress inlet in the
unusually clear waters as very similar to a deep-sea
dive.
The picture was made complete by hundreds of
visitors enjoying the warm spring day and a few
kayaks on the lake.
Luka Kolovrat, www.gorgonija.com
61
62 63
 Slijev Imotskog polja i rijeke Vrljike pripada sre-
dišnjem pojasu dinarskog krša. To se područje
vanjskih Dinarida u hidrogeološkom smislu odli-
kuje nerazmjerom između morfoloških i hidroge-
oloških razvodnica. Površinski tokovi završavaju
RIJEKA VRLJIKA THE RIVER VRLJIKA u ponorima i dalje napajaju slijev rijeke Tihaljne, u
Bosni i Hercegovini, ili izlaze u podmorskim izvori-
ma u Vrulju na Dubcima i u Klokunu kod Drašnica.
Hidrogeološka obilježja stijena, tektonska oštećenja,
prostorni i visinski položaj geoloških struktura, mor-
fologija terena i količine padalina uvjetuju hidrogeo-
lošku funkciju terena. Tako razlikujemo teren u ko-
jemu slabo propusne naslage stvaraju kompaktnu
prepreku protoku podzemnih voda, a polupropusne
barijere ipak omogućuju protok te reguliraju i usmje-
ravaju otjecanje voda. Najveće prostranstvo vapne-
njačkih stijena izmjenjuje se s dolomitima, koji nisu
značajnija smetnja vodotocima. Podzemne barijere
čine donjokredni dolomiti i pločasti vapnenci s ro-
žnjacima na području Imotski – Grude. Djelomične
(viseće) barijere izgrađene su od neogenskih lapo-
rastih naslaga i kvartarnih sedimenata izmiješanih s
glinom.
U POČETKU BIJAŠE VRLJIKA!
Vrljika je po mnogočemu jedinstvena krška rijeka
koja protječe cijelom dužinom Imotskog polja. Nije
ju moguće uklopiti u standardnu klasifikaciju jer je
po svojim hidrološkim i geološkim značajkama od
izvora do ponora jednaka, pa se ne može govoriti o
gornjemu, srednjemu i donjem toku. Od izvora do
uvira duga je 23 km, a cijelim tokom vijuga poljem
poput drugih ravničarskih rijeka. Na izvorištu je pet
vrela: Jauk, Opačac, Utopišće, Duboka draga i Dva
oka (ili Jezerine), koje su poseban fenomen jer voda
izvire iz dva potpuno okrugla vrela udaljena jedno
od drugoga nepun metar. Uz izvore se vežu razne
priče i legende koje su ljude ispunjavale strahopošto-
vanjem prema vodi od koje smo svi sazdani.
Vrljika u svom toku mijenja ime pa se tako od
Kamenmosta naziva Matica. Konačno, rijeka ponire
u dnu polja pa izvire u susjednoj Bosni i Hercegovini
pod imenima Tihaljina.
64
The river basin of the Imotski Valley and the river Vrljika
belongs to the middle zone of the Dinaric karst. What
is typical of that part of the outer Dinaric Alps in the
hydrological and geological sense is a disproportion
between morphological and hydrological / geological
features. Surface flows end up in sinkholes and
continue to water the river basin of the river Tihaljna
in Bosnia and Herzegovina or they flow into the sea,
forming underwater fresh springs at Dubci (Croatia)
and Klokun near Drašince. Hydrological and geological
features of rocks, tectonic damage, areal position
and altitude of geological structures, morphology
of the terrain and the amount of rainfall determine
hydrological and geological functions of a terrain.
Taking all that into consideration, we differentiate
between a terrain where poorly permeable alluvium
creates compact barriers for underground waters and
a terrain where semi-permeable barriers allow water to
flow and regulate or channel its draining. A large stretch
of lime rocks is intersected by dolomites, which are not
a strong barrier to water flows. Underground barriers
made of lower cretaceous dolomites and laminated
limestone with hornstone stretch between Imotski and
Grude. Partial (hanging) barriers are made of Neogene
marl layers and Quaternary sediments mixed with clay.
IN THE BEGINNING, THERE WAS VRLJIKA!
By all standards, the Vrljika is a unique karst river,
which flows all the way through the Imotski Valley. It is
impossible to include it into any standard classification
because its hydrological and geological features are
the same from the spring to the estuary. In other
words, there is no upper, middle or lower flow. It is 23
kilometers long from the spring to the estuary and
the whole of its course remains in a valley, just like the
course of any other river in a plain. There are five wells
at its spring, Jauk, Opačac, Utopišće, Duboka Draga and
Dva Oka (or Jezerine), which is a unique phenomenon
because the river starts flowing from two completely
circular springs not a meter apart. Many legends and
stories about the springs fill people with awe for water,
which all of us are made of.
The Vrljika changes its name along its course: it is called
the Matica from Kamenmost on. Finally, the river sinks
65
O Vrljici je ovisio urod u Imotskom polju, ali i sveko-
liki život. Još donedavno voda Vrljike bila je pitka na
svakom njezinom dijelu, u njoj su plivale endemske
mekouste pastrve i imotske gaovice, obitavao bje-
lonogi rak. Čovjek se po zlu umiješao u život rije-
ke uvjeren da mu je sve dopušteno. Bogata i plodna
snaga rijeke polako posustaje pred najezdom novo-
ga nesmiljenog vremena.
Područje oko izvorišta i okolno zemljište (do mosta
na Perinuši), zakonom je zaštićeno 1971. godine kao
poseban ihtiološki rezervat. Rijeka osigurava pitku
vodu stanovništvu Imotske krajine, a stanište je ne-
kih endemskih vrsta i drugih različitih vrsta ribe, te
je zanimljiva i poznata čak i europskim ihtiolozima.
Iako je rezervat površinom malen, odlikuje se viso-
kom kvalitetom vode, s obiljem riblje hrane. Vrljika
pripada jadranskom slijevu u kojemu je otkriveno
ukupno 28 endema (za razliku od dunavskoga, koji
ima samo dva).
U Vrljici žive, iako ne i jedini endemi, dva poznata
roda koja još nisu dovoljno proučena: mekousta pa-
strva (Salmothymus obtusirostris), koju je pručavao
dr.sc. Krešimir Pažur s Poljoprivrednog fakulteta u
Zagrebu, i bjelonogi rak (Austropotamobius palli-
pes), čiju populaciju prati dr.sc. Goran Klobučar s
PMF-a u Zagrebu.
Iz iskustva je poznato da se bjelonogi rak i imotska
gaovica, duboko zamrznuti i potom odmrznuti, ne-
koliko sati ponašaju kao tek ulovljeni tj. živi. Iako ko-
načna riječ o tim endemima još nije rečena, prou-
čavanje usporava kroničan nedostatak sredstva za
istraživanje i zaštitu. Formalna i deklarativna zaštita
nije spomenutim vrstama osigurala preživljavanje,
pa se one i dalje svrstavaju među najugroženije.
66
at the bottom of the valley and reappears in Bosnia and
Herzegovina, known as the Tihaljina.
The harvest in the Imotski Valley, as well as life itself,
depends on the Vrljika. Not long ago the river water was
potable throughout its course and endemic species
like soft-muzzled trout, spotted minnow and white-
clawed crayfish were swimming in it. Unfortunately,
man interfered with the life of the river, convinced that
everything is allowed. The rich and fertile strength of
the river slowly gives way to the new and cruel times.
The area around the spring (and all the way down to
the bridge on the river Perinuša) has been protected
since 1971 as a special ichthyologic reserve. The river
provides the whole Imotski region with fresh water. It is
also known to be the habitat for some endemic species
of fish, as well as for other fish, which is interesting for
European ichthyologists. Although the surface of the
reserve is small, the water is of high quality with an
abundance of food for the fish.
The Vrljika belongs to the Adriatic river basin, the home
of 28 endemic species (as opposed to the Danube
basin, where there are only two).
Two endemic species in the Vrljika have not
been studied in full detail yet: soft-muzzled trout
(Salmothymus obtusirostris), studied by Krešimir
Pažur, Ph.D. from the Faculty of Agriculture in Zagreb,
and white-clawed crayfish (Austropotamobius
pallipes), whose population is monitored by Goran
Klobučar, Ph.D. from the Faculty of Science in Zagreb.
It is widely known that white-clawed crayfish and
spotted minnow (gaovica) behave as if they were alive
(i.e. as if they had just been caught) for several hours
after being frozen and defrosted. Although the final
conclusion about those endemic species has not been
reached yet, the research has been slowed down due
to a constant lack of means and protection. Formal and
declarative protection has not ensured the survival of
the above mentioned animals, so they are still on the
list of highly endangered species.
67
MEKOUSTA PASTRVA
Dr. sc. Krešimir Pažur, znanstveni suradnik Instituta
za slatkovodno ribarstvo u Zagrebu i profesor na
Poljoprivrednom fakultetu Sveučilišta u Zagrebu,
zajedno sa suradnicima (ing. Ivo Sabioncello,
prof. Sibila Marko), istražujući pastrvske vode u
Hrvatskoj, šezdesetih je godina prošlog stoljeća pro-
učavao vodu Vrljike. Tom je prilikom ustanovljeno
da Vrljika ima najbolje prirodne uvjete za život me-
kouste endemske pastrve, jer se temperatura vode
kreće oko biološkog optimuma, a vanjski su klimat-
ski uvjeti povoljni, pa cijele godine ima kukaca koji
padaju u vodu kao i obilje riječnoga račića “žmurka”
s kojim se hrane. Dakle, nema razdoblja zimskog gla-
dovanja pastrva (kao npr. na Gackoj). Takvi povoljni
uvjeti u kojima je endemska pastrva mogla dosegnu-
ti dosegnuti težinu i do 5 kg, promijenjeni su ljud-
skom intervencijom, osobito krivolovom za vrijeme
mrijesta, a koji je svojedobno bio uzeo velikog maha.
Pastrva se nerijetko se izlovljavala i dinamitom.
Drugi veliki problem nastao je melioracijom
Imotskog polja, kad je zbog natapanja razina vode
u rijeci za ljetnih mjeseci bila izrazito niska. I, konač-
no, PK Vino-duhan-voće sedamdesetih je godina 20.
stoljeća u tri vala izazvao katastrofalni pomor ribe i
bjelonogog raka, jer je ispustio toksični otpad pre-
ostao iz proizvodnje alkohola od datulja uvezenih
iz Afrike. Od toga se Vrljika do danas nije oporavi-
la. Nažalost, i dalje se nastavlja nesavjesno onečišći-
vanje rijeke kanalizacijskim ispustima, ali i ispiranjem
fosfatnih gnojiva i drugih agro-kemikalija s obradivih
površina.
Podsjećamo da je mekousta pastrva najstarija eu-
ropska riba, endem koji živi samo u Vrljici i Jadru, a
preživjela je nekoliko valova ledenog doba, i još uvi-
jek nije sasvim proučena. Lako se može dogoditi da
prije nego budu dokraja znanstveno istražene, nesta-
nu i posljednji primjerci. A mi ćemo tada, umjesto
uz modru rijeku, živjeti uz mrtvi kanal. Zahvaljujući
sebi samima!
68
SOFT-muzzled TROUT
While doing research on trout waters in Croatia,
Krešimir Pažur, Ph.D., a scientific associate of the
Institute for Freshwater Fisheries in Zagreb and a
professor at the Faculty of Agriculture in Zagreb, and
his associates (Engineer Ivo Sabioncello and Professor
Sibila Marko) studied the water of the Vrljika in the
1960s. They established that natural living conditions
for the endemic soft-muzzled trout were the best in
the Vrljika because the water temperature ranged
around the biological optimum and the climate
outside the water was suitable for insects that fell into
the water throughout the year. Also, the water was rich
with the small crawfish žmurko, on which the trout
feeds. Therefore, the trout did not have to go through
the winter period of starvation (like, for example, in
the river Gacka). Such conditions were suitable for
the endemic trout, which would grow up to weigh
5 kilos, but they have been changed by human
intervention: poaching during the spawn season was
really cruel at some points (poachers would even use
dynamite to kill trout, which was also very dangerous).
Another problem was the amelioration of the Imotski
Valley because the irrigation of the soil lowered the
water level drastically. And, finally, in the 1970s the
Agricultural Collective Wine-Tobacco-Fruits released
toxic waste (generated by the production of alcohol
from dates imported from Africa) in the river, causing
three disastrous fish and crawfish kills. The Vrljika has
never recovered from it. Unfortunately, people keep
polluting the river with sewage or phosphate fertilizers
and other agricultural chemicals which are washed into
the river from the surrounding cultivated areas.
We would again like to point out that soft-muzzled
trout is the oldest European fish, an endemic fish living
only in the Vrljika and the Jadro rivers. It has survived
several ice ages and it has not yet been researched in
full detail. The last specimens could disappear well
before the research is completed. We will then live by a
dead canal, not by a living river. And we will have only
ourselves to blame.
69
MLINICE
Život uz rijeku nije se mogao zamisliti bez mlinica
gdje su se ljudi okupljali čekajući na red za mljeve-
nje žita. U tom su čekanju viđali i upoznavali ljude
iz drugih sela, izmjenjivali iskustva i vijesti, ljudika-
li. Odlazak u mlin bio je važan i poseban doživljaj,
a mlinari su u narodu uživali osobiti ugled. U mli-
nu bi se okupilo mnoštvo svijeta, noćilo se i čekalo
red. Najprije se mljelo onima koji su došli iz dalje-
ga. U dvorištima i štalama vezali bi se konji i maga-
rad, isprezala se zaprežna kola. Bez mlinica se nije
mogao zamisliti život, a ovakvih nije bilo nadaleko.
Stanovnici okolice Livna i Tomislavgrada dolazili su
na meljavu u ovdašnje mlinice.
Uz Vrljiku je, sve do Drugog svjetskog rata bilo mno-
go mlinica, među njima Pijanovića/Dujaševa mlinica,
Markićuša, Patrljeva, Padića, Đogića, Bublin, Jelavića,
Rudića, Bežovanova, Šarčevića, Ćukova, Vrandelića,
Lešinova… pa napoznatija Perinuša s 14 žrvnjeva, iz-
građena još za vrijeme turske vladavine. Mnoge su
mlinice podlegle zubu vremena, a samo im je ime
ostalo u sjećanju stanovnika ovog kraja.
70
WATERMILLS
Life by the river was unimaginable without watermills.
People would gather around them, waiting for their
turn to mill the grain. While waiting, they would see
and meet people from other villages, talk, exchange
news, briefly - socialize. Going to the mill was an
important and special event and millers enjoyed a great
reputation among people. Many people would gather
in watermills and even spend the night there, waiting
for their turn. Those coming from remote villages
would go first. Horses and donkeys used to be tied
in yards and barns, wagons used to be unharnessed.
Life was impossible without watermills and ours were
really well-known. Even the inhabitants of Livno and
Tomislavgrad would come to mill their grain in them.
Before the Second World War there were many
watermills along the Vrljika, among them Pijanović-
Dujašev, Markićuš, Patrljev, Padić, Đogić, Buble, Jelavić,
Rudić, Bežovanov, Šarčević, Ćukov, Vrandelić and
Lešinov mills. The most famous of all was Perinuša mill
with 14 millstones, built during the Ottoman Empire.
Many watermills have been destroyed by time. Only
their names remained in the memory of the local
population.
PERINUŠA
Na Perinuši još uvijek melje Gadžina mlinica, u kojoj
rade dva žrvnja. Za vrijeme turske vlasti izgrađeno je
nekoliko mlinica, nasipi i brane od kaldarmane ze-
mlje. Obitelj Franceschi ih je u 18. stoljeću dogradila
još nekoliko, pa je ukupno bilo 14 žrvnjeva. Austrija
je zemljane brane i nasipe zamijenila kamenima koji
do danas traju i odolijevaju vodi i zubu vremena. U
sjećanju zadnjeg mlinara još uvijek žive slike minulog
vremena, u zvuku žrvnja, mirisu bijelog brašna, slat-
ke pure od kukuruza brzovoda…U posljednjoj preo-
staloj mlinici, samelje se ono malo pšenice, ječma i
kukuruza koliko se još sije u ovim krajevima – više iz
želje za poznatim okusom nego radi koristi.
I nadalje se u mlinu i starim ljetnikovcima uz most
na Prinuši gnijezde lastavice, kao inače na mjestima
gdje žive dobri ljudi. Obilje kukaca uz vodu osigura-
va hranu za ptiće – prizor je jednak onomu od prije
stotinu i više godina: baršunaste lastavice u niskom
letu, vilinski konjici brokatnih boja lebde nad vo-
dom, šum vode što se ruši kroz jažve i zvuk žrvnjeva
prizivaju sretnija i sjetnija sjećanja. Život vode i život
uz vodu!
PERINUŠA
Gadžo mill with its two millstones still works on the river
Perinuša. During the Ottoman rule, several watermills
were built and embankments and dams were made
of gravel soil. The Franceschi family built several more
mills in the 18th century and there were 14 millstones in
total. Austria replaced the soil embankments and dams
with stone ones, which still resist the destructive forces
of water and time. The last miller still vividly remembers
the old times, the sound of a millstone, the smell of
white flour, the sweet corn mush … From time to time
people still mill some wheat, barley, or corn in the last
remaining watermill. Not many crops are cultivated in
the region any more, but the local population likes to
mill them, more for the well-known taste than for any
real economic benefit.
Swallows still nest in the watermill and in the old villas
by the bridge on the Perinuša. It is thought they nest
only in places where good people live. Lot of insects
ensure enough food for the nestlings and the sight
is identical to that of hundreds of years ago: velvety
swallows fly low, dragonflies of brocade colours float
over the water and the sound of millstones and water
rushing down the canals evokes happier times when
life was concentrated around the mills on the Vrljika.
71
72 73
74 75
76 77

DVA OKA
(… ) Proljeće se tek slutilo u zraku kada je otac usnuo
čudan san: sin će ga sutra čekati kod Grbavčevih
kostela. Ne rekavši ženi ni riječi, zaputi se još za mraka
u udaljeni kutak polja, s nadom i strahom u srcu.
Pješačio je žustro pola dana, a kad je ugledao gusti
kostelov gaj što se, mračan i prijeteći, zbio pod strmim
polama, zastane i bolno uzdahne. Teška koraka
približavao se golemim stablima obraslima vlažnom
mahovinom; zađe među njih i sjedne na kamen.
Pognute glave utone u crne misli.
78
Uto zapjeva slavuj i oglase se druge ptice. Kroz ispre-
pletene grane probije se zlatna zraka sunca, a niz nju,
kao niz paukovu nit, spusti se vila. Uze začuđenog
starca za ruku i povede ga dublje među stabla, a on
se nevoljko prepusti već unaprijed pripravan na sva-
ko zlo. Na proplanku zaklonjenom visokim stablima
starac vidje sina Lovru gdje sjedi na panju i prebire po
svirali. Mladić podigne pogled, a lice mu ozari osmijeh.
- Ćaća, sutra ću vaditi kumpir. San me danas prevario.
Otac u trenu shvati da se Lovre ne sjeća gdje je bio ci-
jele zime. Vila se nagne prema starcu, a on osjeti njezin
šapat poput lagana daška:
- A, ovo je Lovrina plaća! Dobro nam je zimus služio!
Pljesne nato dlanom o dlan, kostele muklo zastenju u
svojim deblim, i u trenu se pretvore u vitke jablane za-
odjenute treperavim lišćem. Zatutnji zemljina utroba,
i uruši se posred čistine. Ukažu se dva okrugla jezerca
izvor-vode, a iz njih namah provre srebrna nit tek na-
stale rijeke.
- Dva Lovrina modra oka! Dva oka! – zvonko se na-
smije vila i netragom nestade.
Kao čudom, okiti se Imotsko polje. Visibabe i šareni
kaćuni otvoriše svoje krunice pčelama i suncu, a mali
svijet kukaca užurba se među travom. Zasjele vile na
litice Badnjevica i promatrale kako niz polje, uz ljeska-
vo korito mlade rijeke, izrastaju jablani i vrbe, a priro-
da buja životom. Ljepota se prosu krajolikom.
TWO EYES
- Seke moje! Nema ljepšeg kraja pod žarkim suncem!
(Iz priča „U vilinskom kolu“ Maje Delić Peršen)
(…) Around the time when spring could already be
felt in the air, father dreamt a strange dream: his son
would wait for him tomorrow near Grbavac mulberry
trees. He did not say anything to his wife, but the next
morning he got up before dawn and went to that
distant corner of the valley, hope and fear in his heart.
He walked quickly for half a day and when he saw
the dense hackberry grove, dark and threatening
under the almost vertical cliffs, he stopped and sighed
painfully. Walking heavily, he came to the large trees
overgrown with damp moss, went in between them
and sat on a rock. He hung his head and got lost in
gloomy thoughts.
At that moment a nightingale sang and so did other
birds. A golden ray of light broke through entangled
branches and a fairy slid down it, like down a spider’s
thread. She took the astonished old man by the
hand and led him deeper in, between the trees. He
unwillingly let himself go, expecting the worst.
On a glade covered with tall trees, the old man saw
his son Lovro sitting on a log and playing his flute. The
young man looked up and a smile lit up his face.
- Father, I will dig up the potatoes tomorrow. I overslept
today. I’m sorry.
His father immediately realized that Lovro could not
remember where he had been all winter. The fairy
leaned towards the old man and he felt her whispering
voice like a soft breeze:
- And this is Lovro’s reward! He served us well this
winter!
She clapped her hands, the hackberries moaned
heavily from their trunks and in a second they turned
into poplars with shivering leaves. The ground shook
from within and crumbled in the middle of the glade.
Two round lakes appeared, two springs, and a silver
line of a new river started to flow from them.
- Lovro’s two blue eyes! Two eyes! – The fairy giggled
loudly and vanished without a trace.
Beautiful flowers appeared in the Imotski Valley, as by
a miracle: snowdrops and colourful orchids opened
their crowns to bees and the sun, while the small
world of insects started moving hurriedly through
the grass.Fairies sat on the cliffs of Badnjevice and
watched poplars and willows rise up in the valley,
along the shiny river bed of the new river: nature was
vibrant with a new life.
- My sisters, no place under the sun is more beautiful
than this valley!
(From stories “In Fairies Circle” by Maja Delić Peršen)
79
80 81
dva oka - Prvi zaron
lipanj 2012.
Dva oka, Jezerine, Grbavčeva i Zdilarova jezera nazivi
su za dva kružna jezerca koja su zapravo izvor rijeke
Vrljike (jedan od pet), a nikad ne presušuju. Sjeverno
jezerce ima promjer 42 m i duboko je 14 metara, a
promjer južnoga je 44, uz dubinu oko 6 m. Kao i ostala
četiri izvora, ta su jezerca poseban ihtiološki rezervat,
odnosno zaštićeni spomenik prirode.
Ronilo se samo u sjevernom jezeru, koje je nešto bistri-
je, a na njegovu je dnu izvor iz kojega se, preko sedre-
ne barijere, voda prelijeva u donje jezero. Temperatura
vode na površini je 20 °C, a na dnu samo 12 °C. Dno
jezerca uglavnom je prekriveno debelim naslagama
mulja, osim na mjestu gdje voda izvire, koje je čisto
i kamenito. Uz samo dno, pokraj izvora, opaženo je
jato endemske imotske gaovice koja se krila u korije-
njima panjeva.
Tim zaronom ronioci RK Crveno jezero istražili su sve
imotske modre vode i prikupili vrijedne hidrogeološke
podatke; istraživanja su prijelaz iz mitskoga i vilinskog
vremena u novo, današnje vrijeme egzaktne znanosti,
kada se razotkrivaju tajne prirode. Unatoč tome, im-
presivni svijet krša i vode golica ljudsku maštu i nitko
ne zna hoće li nas u budućnosti iznenaditi nekim no-
vim čudima.
Luka Kolovrat, www.gorgonija.com
(članovi RK Crveno jezero Imotski: Luka Kolovrat,
Ivica Ćosić, Ante Kukavica Fedor)
82
two eyes - First dive
June 2012.
Two Eyes, Jezerine, Grbačeva, Zdilar’s Lakes are the
names for two little circular lakes which are one of
five springs for river Vrljika and it never dries out.
North lake has diameter of 42 meters and depth of
14 meters, where the south lake 44 meters in diameter
and 6 meters in depth. Just like other four springs,
Two Eyes are special ichthyologic reservation, and
protected monument of nature.
Dive was completed only in the northern lake which
is somewhat clearer. At the bottom of it is a spring.
Water flows over calcareous sinter barier into the
southern lake. Water temperature on surface was 20
degrees centigrade, and at the bottom it went down
to 12 degrees. The bottom of the lake is coverd with
mire, except the spring it self which is clear and rocky.
A flock of Imotska Gaovica (endemic fish) was seen
hiding within the roots of the trees growing on top.
With this dive, divers explored all of lakes around
Imotski, and made valuable hydro-geological records.
Explorations made a pass between mythical fairy
times into present, the age of exact science when
wonders and mysteries of nature are revealed. Despite
all that, impressive world of carst and water wakens
human imagination, and there is way to know for sure
that nature will surprise us with new wonders.
Luka Kolovrat, www.gorgonija.com
(Divers Club Red Lake members – Luka Kolovrat,
Ivica Ćosić, Ante Fedor Kukavica)
83
 LOKVIČIĆKA JEZERA LOKVIČIĆI LAKES Imotska krajina obiluju jezerima i vrtačama.
Međutim, dok su Modro i Crveno svjetski poznata
jezera, mnoga druga do kojih nema ni prometnica,
iako jednako atraktivna, gotovo su nepoznata.
U općini Lokvičići, koju čini pet sela, nalaze se čak
tri takva jezerska pastorka – Lokvičićko (ili Mamića
jezero), Knezovića jezero i Galipovac. Ljepote tih
jezera jedva su poznate i stanovnicima obližnjega
Imotskog. Ta tri jezera, zajedno s Prološkim, koje im
je nasuprot, i Imotskim poljem koje je na tom po-
dručju veći dio godine pod vodom, zbog čega se i
zove Blato, tvore jedinstvenu cjelinu.
Tijekom zimskih mjeseci i početkom proljeća vrela
s platoa Studenaca i Ričica povećavaju svoj kapaci-
tet te, zajedno s kišnicom, donose goleme količine
vode koje se ulijevaju u zapadni dio Imotskog polja,
povećavajući tako površinu Prološkog jezera, koje se
razlije u Blato i poplavi 3 – 4 km2. Dubina vode Blata
je 1 – 6 m.
Nasuprot Prološkom jezeru nalaze se Galipovac,
Knezovića jezero i Lokvičićko jezero, od kojih je naj-
poznatije i najveće Galipovac, smješten uz najsjever-
niju točku Imotskog polja. Stijene su mu izuzetno
strme. Do vode se lakše može doći najnižim prije-
vojem sedla uz samo polje. Dimenzije jezera su 170
x 115 m, a dubina mu je veća od 60 m, tj. varira do
desetak metara, ovisno o godišnjem dobu i priljevu
vode. Dno jezera je muljevito, a voda je relativno bi-
stra, osim u vrijeme pojačanog dotoka. Uz jezero su
uređeni vidikovci i odmorišta.
Jugozapadno od Galipovca, na maloj udaljenosti,
nalazi se Knezovića jezero, izuzetno strma i nepri-
stupačna ponikva, koja se po nepristupačnosti, ali i
sličnosti, može mjeriti s Crvenim jezerom, premda je
Knezovića jezero znatno manje. Voda u jezeru izu-
zetno je bistra, a duboka je 40-ak metara.
Voda u ta tri jezera oscilira i po desetak metara, ali
jezera nikada ne presuše zbog čega se pretpostavlja
84
The Imotski region is rich in lakes and karst holes.
However, while Blue Lake and Red Lake are well-known
in the world, many others, equally attractive but
inaccessible by road, remain unknown.
In the municipality of Lokvičići, which consists of five
villages, there are three such lakes – Lokvičići (or Mamić
Lake), Knezović Lake and Galipovac. The inhabitants
of Imotski are well aware of their beauty. The three
lakes form a unique whole with Proložac Lake on the
opposite side and the part of the Imotski Valley called
the Proložac Mire, flooded most of the year.
During the winter months and in the early spring,
springs from the Studenci and Ričice plateaus become
richer in water and rains are abundant, so a huge
amount of water flows into the west part of the
Imotski Valley, increasing the surface of Proložac Lake,
which pours into the Mire and floods 3 to 4 square
kilometers. The depth of the Mire is 1 to 6 meters.
Opposite Prološko Lake are Galipovac, Knezović, and
Lokvičići lakes. The biggest and the most famous of
them is Galipovac, located at the furthest northern
point of the Imotski Valley. Its cliffs are extremely steep
and it is easier to approach it through the lowest saddle
on the edge of the Valley. Its dimensions are 170 by 115
meters and its depth over 60 meters, although it varies
by 10 meters, depending on the season and the water
inflow. The bottom of the lake is silty, but the water is
relatively clear, except when the inflow is abundant.
There are lookouts and resting places by the lake.
To the south-west of Galipovac is Knezović Lake, a very
steep and inaccessible hole. It is as hard to access as Red
Lake and there are other similarities between the two,
but Knezović Lake is smaller. The water in the lake is
very clear and some 40 meters deep.
The water level varies by ten meters in those three
lakes, but they never go dry, so it seems that there is
constant water inflow. All of them are at the edges of
the Imotski Valley or the Mire and they are believed to
85
da imaju siguran dotok vode. Sva tri jezera graniče
s Imotskim poljem ili Blatom, a s velikom se vjero-
jatnošću može tvrditi da su s njim povezani podze-
mnim vodotokovima.
Ni sama okolica jezera ne oskudijeva zanimljivosti-
ma. Sva četiri jezera i Blato isprepleteni su vrtačama,
suhim jezerima i brežuljcima po kojima su rasuti vr-
tovi, kaskadni vinogradi, gradine i mnoga arheološka
nalazišta.
86
be connected to it by underground waters.
There are interesting sites around the lakes as well. All of
the four lakes and the Mire are intertwined with holes,
dry lakes, and the surrounding hills with scattered
gardens, cascading vineyards, stone constructions and
many archaeological sites..
RONJENJE U LOKVIČIĆKOM JEZERU
Lokvičićko ili Mamića jezero krajnje u nizu jezera.
Smješteno je na rubu Imotskog polja, u njemu ljeti
uživaju kupači. Ostali dio godine oaza je za ribiče koji
pokušavaju uhvatiti pokojeg šarana. Voda je relativ-
no bistra, a ovismo o dobu godine i mjestu mjerenja,
duboka je od 35 do 40 m. Jezero je muljevito, mjesti-
mično s velikim kamenjem.
Članovima RK „Crveno jezero“ iz Imotskog upravo
je ljepota tog niza jezera na rubu polja bila izazov, te
su nakon Crvenog i Modrog odlučili zaroniti i u nji-
ma. Prvo je po redu bilo upravo Mamića jezero, i u
njemu su, uz pomoć nekolicine mještana Lokvičića,
ostvarili prvi zaron.
Članovi kluba su do vode došli teškom mukom, s
ronilačkom opremom na leđima, nakon gotovo sat
vremena spuštanja niz strme litice. Mali predah, pa
oblačenje ronilaca Berislava Šanića i Luke Kolovrata,
dok se ostatak ekipe uvelike kupao.
Na površini je temperatura vode bila 22 oC, na du-
bini deset metara pala je na 9,5 oC, a na 25 m dubi-
ne ustalila se na nešto više od 8 oC, što je popriličan
izazov za 5 mm debela mokra odijela u kojima se
ronilo (bez čarapa i rukavica). Nakon prvih nekoliko
metara mutne vode, na dubini između 5 i 19 m voda
je zamjetno bistrija, zahvaljujući prije svega stjenovi-
tim liticama koje se naglo, skoro okomito ruše pre-
ma dnu, gotovo 50 m duboko. Zbog hladnoće zaron
je trajao samo pola sata
DIVING IN LOKVIČIći LAKE
Lokvičići or Mamić Lake is the last lake in a string of
lakes. Located at the edge of the Imotski Valley, it is
attractive to swimmers during the summer. The rest of
the year, it is an oasis for fishermen who try to catch a
carp or two. The water is relatively clear and 35 to 40
meters deep, depending on the season and location.
The bottom is covered in silt, with a few large rocks
here and there.
It was the beauty of that string of lakes at the edge of
the Valley that was a great challenge to the members of
the Red Lake Diving Club, who, after diving in Red Lake
and Blue Lake, decided to go into Mamić Lake. With
a little help from some of the inhabitants of Lokvičići,
they took their first dive.
It was hard for the divers to descend to the water with
the diving gear on their backs. It took them almost an
hour to climb down the steep cliffs. They took a short
break and then the divers Berislav Šanić and Luka
Kolovrat put on their suits. The rest of the team was
having a swim.
The temperature on the surface was 22 oC, but it was
9.5 oC at 10 meters and 8 oC at 25 meters, which was
quite a challenge for our 5-milimeter-thick wet suits
with no socks or gloves. For the first few meters the
water was rather muddy, but at a depth of between 5
and 19 meters it became visibly clearer, thanks to the
steep rocky cliffs that reach the bottom at a depth of
almost 50 meters. It was very cold, so the dive lasted for
only half an hour.
87
Zaron u Galipovac
Članovi RK Crveno jezero u svojoj želji da zarone u sva
jezera Imotske krajine odradili su i dva zarona u jezero
Galipovac i to 2009. i 2011. godine.
Osim sto je voda izrazito hladna, specifičnost ronje-
nja u većini jezera Imotske krajine, pa tako i u ovom,
jest problematično spuštanje ljudi i opreme do razine
vode sto uključuje i spuštanje niz strme stijene, sipar
koji se odronjava pod nogama, a sve s 20 – 30 kg opre-
me na leđima.
Maksimalna dubina ronjenja bila je 42 metra. Prvih
dvadeset metara voda je izrazito mutna, temperatura
11-12 °C. Dublje, temperatura pada na 7 °C, a vidlji-
vost postaje sve bolja. Tamno je i bistro, pa su uvjeti
slični noćnom zaronu u moru. Oko stijena ima dosta
ribe, a šarani se posve umire pod svijetlom te ih je mo-
guće uloviti rukom.
Na prvom zaronu u ekipi bili su Marko Kavelj,
Ivica i Marko Ćosić, Ðoka Grbić, Ante Rebić, Joško
Vukosav, Luka Kolovrat, Dino Matković i Ante
Perkušić, dok su drugi put sudjelovali Luka Kolovrat,
Ivica Ćosić, Željko Čuljak, Joško Vukosav, Ante
Kukavica, Davor Markota te gosti Vlado Stipčević,
Lidija Lijić, Božo Vukičević, Matko Vojković, i Alina
Danet.
Dakako, nakon zarona koji traje tek pola posla, treba
jos izvuci i opremu, prvo do oboda Galipovca, a po-
tom i do automobila. Taj posao posebno teško pada
roniocima koji preko ronilačkih čarapa oblače tenisice
i uz pomoć užeta izvlače sebe i opremu uz ono nei-
zbježno: “Što je meni danas ovo trebalo!”.
Luka Kolovrat, www.gorgonija.com
88
Dive into Lake Galipovac
In their wish to dive into all of Imotski lakes, members
of Divers Club Red Lake Imotski conducted two dives
into Lake Galipovac, one in 2009 and second one in
2011.
Besides water being very cold, diving into lakes around
Imotski is accompanied by problematical descend for
divers and carrying equipment down to the water.
Going down the cliffs and slopes which can result in a
rock slides, and all that with 20 – 30kg of equipment
on your can be extremely difficult and dangerous.
Maximum deft of this dive was 42 meters. For the first
20 meters water is very blurry with temperatures of 11
to12 degrees centigrade. Deeper they went it dropped
down to 7 degrees. It’s dark but clear, so conditions are
similar to night sea diving. There is a lot of fish around
the rocks, and under the diving lights some get so still
that you can catch them with your hands.
On first dive in 2009 crew was made of Marko Kavelj,
Ivica and Marko Ćosić, Ðoka Grbić, Ante Rebić,
Joško Vukosav, Luka Kolovrat, Dino Matković and
Ante Perkušić. The second dive had a little different
rooster, Luka Kolovrat, Ivica Ćosić, Željko Čuljak,
Joško Vukosav, Ante Kukavica, Davor Markota, and
guests Vlado Stipčević, Lidija Lijić, Božo Vukičević,
Matko Vojković, and Alina Danet.
Off course, after the dive which lasts for about half
an hour, all the equipment has to be brought up
from the lake itself, over the Galipovac hill, and a bit
more to the cars. All of this is especially being hard
on divers. Walking in shoes put on diving socks, and
pulling them self out with the gear by the rope is just
something that has to be done, and all of them said
the same thing: “What was I thinking!”
Luka Kolovrat, www.gorgonija.com
89
90 91

PROLOŠKO BLATO PROLOŽAC MIRE
Prološko je blato močvarna regija Imotskog po-
lja koje se prostire na površini od 10,24 km2. To je
prostrano poplavno područje u zapadnom dije-
lu Imotskog polja, koje je dio godine pod vodom,
a samo je mali dio tog područja pod vodom cije-
le godine (Prološko jezero). Blato je tipičan primjer
poplavnih krških polja u Dalmaciji, kakva su danas
uglavnom uništena odvodnjom, radi proširenja po-
ljoprivrednih površina. Nesumnjiva je i njegova eko-
loška uloga kao staništa ptica močvarica, uglavnom
na zimovanju i za vrijeme preleta. U krajobraznom
smislu područje je do sada sačuvano, a zaštićeno
je 1971. godine. Prološko je jezero duboko 35 m.
Njegov je sjeverni kameniti dio sačuvan, a južni je
rub potpuno nestao, i ono se stopilo se s Blatom u
jedinstvenu vodenu površinu.
The Proložac Mire is a swampy part of the Imotski Valley
that covers the surface of 10.24 kilometers square. It is
a vast area susceptible to flooding in the western part
of the Valley. It is flooded during a part of the year, but
only a small portion of it is under water throughout
the year (Prološko Lake). The Mire is a typical example
of flood-susceptible karst valleys in Dalmatia, which
have mostly been destroyed by drainage aimed to
expand arable land. It undoubtedly has an important
ecological role as a habitat for swamp birds during the
wintertime and the time of their transit. The area is well-
preserved and has been protected since 1971. Prološko
Lake is 35 meters deep. The northern rocky part has
been preserved, but its southern part has disappeared
completely and merged with the Mire into a unique
water surface.

Za takvih poplava brežuljak Manastir u Imotskom
polju postaje otok na kojemu su se od 1493. godine
franjevci skrivali od Turaka (otuda mu ime). Prema
narodnim pričama, želeći se zaštititi od čestih i bru-
talnih upada Turaka, fratri su zatrpavali ponore ži-
votinjskim kožama kako bi se voda oko otočića što
dulje zadržala. Vjeruje se da je to razlogom kasnijim
čestim poplavama istočnog dijela Imotskog polja.
During the flooding season, Manastir (Monastery) Hill
in the Imotski Valley becomes an island. Franciscans
were hiding on it from the Turks starting from 1493.
According to folk tales, since the surrounding water
protected them from frequent and brutal Turkish
attacks, friars would pile up animal skins in the holes
to stop the water from flowing out. That is believed to
be the reason for later frequent flooding of the eastern
part of the Imotski Valley.

92 93
94 95
 Kanjon Badnjevice spaja Ričice i Proložac i jedna je u
nizu prirodnih zanimljivosti Imotske krajine o kojima
se malo zna. Prema nalazima, nekad su se davno u
KANJON SUVAJE THE CANYON OF SUVAJA prapovijesno vrijeme u kanjonu nalazile mnoge pri-
rodne brane koje su stalno zadržavale vodu u pre-
BADNJEVICE BADNJEVICE djelu Ričica i tako stvarale manje jezero.
Postupno je snaga vode koja se slijevala kroz kanjon
Badnjevice srušila prirodne brane i voda Ričičkog je-
zera otjecala je u Imotsko polje. To se događalo ot-
prilike prije dolaska Rimljana na ovo područje.
Za Austro-Ugarske Monarhije tj. do 1918. godine,
uređen je donji dio kanjona i izgrađeno pet kame-
nih pregrada, za što je utrošeno tadašnjih 328 zlatnih
kruna. Nakon tih zahvata, smanjile su se bujice koje
su nadirale iz kanjona i nanosile znatne štete poljo-
privredi, poplavljujući zapadni dio Imotskog polja.
Izgradnjom brane Ričice i akumulacijskog jezera za-
ustavljeni su nagli prodori vode. Brana je sagrađena
u sklopu sustava za natapanje Imotskog polja, ali za
njegovo potpuno uređenje potrebno je obaviti broj-
ne opsežne radove.
Donji dio kanjona omiljeno je kupalište Proložana, a
kada se od Prološca krene uzvodno prema Ričicama,
kanjon i rijeka Suvaja koja njime protječe vrlo brzo
pokažu sve svoje draži. Stalno se izmjenjuju niska
voda koja se može pregaziti i vodeni džepovi duboki
i po nekoliko metara, koje treba preplivati ili se mo-
raju zaobići po kamenjaru i šikari.
Rječica Suvaja bogata je ribom, rakovima i žabama,
a u vodi se često vide neotrovne zmije bjelouške.
Kamenjar obrastao mediteranskom vegetacijom
stanište je poskoka, najotrovnije europske zmije.
Na nekoliko su mjesta gusto šiblje i oborena stabla
premostili vodu. Što više odmičemo uzvodno i pri-
bližavamo se Ričicama, stijene kanjona postaju sve
strmije i nepristupačnije. Na klisurama se vide osta-
ci nekadašnjih četiriju utvrda kojima su se koristili
Rimljani, a kasnije i Turci. Blizu kraja kanjona, u pre-
djelu zvanom Skakala, obilazak nije moguć. Strme i
glatke litice na nekim mjestima sužavaju kanjon na
nekoliko desetaka centimetara, a za vrijeme višeg
vodostaja potrebno je preroniti ispod uglavljenog
96
The Badnjevice Canyon connects Ričice and Proložac
and is one of the many unexplored natural phenomena
of the Imotski region. Certain findings support the
theory that a long time ago the canyon contained
many natural dams which kept water restricted to the
Ričice area, thus forming a little lake.
Gradually, the force of water flowing down the
Badnjevice Canyon broke through the natural dams
and the water from Ričice Lake poured into the Imotski
Valley.
Under the rule of Austria-Hungary, i.e. until 1918, some
works were done in the lower part of the canyon
and five stone dams were built. They cost 328 gold
crowns, but after their construction fewer torrents
from the canyon would do severe damage to the local
agricultural production and flood the western part of
the Imotski Valley.
The dam of Ričice and an accumulative lake stopped
sudden breaches of water. The dam was built as a
part of the irrigation system for the Imotski Valley, but
much work remains to be done in order to finish the
whole project.
The people of Proložac love swimming in the lower
part of the canyon. The canyon and the river Suvaja
really show their charms upstream from Proložac,
towards Ričice, where the water runs fast. Low water,
which you can walk over, constantly alternates with
water basins several meters deep, which you must
either swim across or walk around through shrubbery
and rocks.
The river Suvaja is rich in fish, crabs, and frogs and it
is very common to see non-poisonous ring-snakes
in it. The surrounding rocky ground covered in
Mediterranean vegetation is the habitat for Europe’s
most poisonous snake, horned viper.
At a few places thick shrubbery and fallen trees bridge
the river. The more upstream we go, towards Ričice, the
steeper and the more inaccessible become the canyon
cliffs. Remains of four Roman towers, later used by the
Turks, are clearly visible on the cliffs. The part called
Skakala (the jumping place) near the end of the canyon
is rather inaccessible. Smooth steep cliffs narrow the
97
kamena. Roneći ispod tog kamena mnogi mladići
prolaze svojevrsnu inicijaciju time dokazujući zrelost
i muževnost.
Uzvodno se dolazi do kraja kanjona koji je ujedno i
najatraktivniji. Ulazite u tamu i labirint pećina, vode
i smeđkastih stijena, koje u određeno doba dana, u
igri Sunčevih zraka, tvore jedinstveni prizor. Izlaz iz
tog labirinta i samog kanjona moguć je samo pe-
njanjem uz dvadesetak metara visok zid, za što je
potrebna alpinistička oprema. U kanjonu obitavaju
jata divljih golubova koji, preplašeni ljudskom pri-
sutnošću, uzlijeću iz svojih pećina, a lepet njihovih
krila, nošen jekom, dugo odzvanja među liticama.
Doživljaj je jedinstven i vrlo dojmljiv.
98
canyon down to a dozen of centimeters and when the
water level is higher, you must dive under a jammed
rock if you want to cross it. Diving under the rock is a
sort of initiation for many young men who prove their
maturity and manhood that way.
Upstream is the end of the canyon, which is the most
attractive part of it. You enter a dark labyrinth of caves,
water, and brownish rocks, which make a unique
spectacle at a certain time of day, when sunrays play
upon them. It is possible to exit the labyrinth and the
canyon itself only if you climb the twenty-meter high
wall, a challenge that requires the use of the alpinist gear.
The canyon is home for many flocks of wild pigeons,
which, frightened by the presence of man, fly up from
the caves while the flapping of their wings, carried by
an echo, resounds among the cliffs. It is a unique and a
very impressive experience.
99
100 101
 RIČIĆKO ZELENO JEZERO GREEN LAKE RIČICE U cestovnoj i svekolikoj izolaciji, na sjeverozapad-
nom rubu Imotske krajine, uz samo granicu sa su-
sjednom Bosnom i Hercegovinom, smjestilo se aku-
mulacijsko jezero prozvano zelenim, čudo vode što
su je pitomi brežuljci stisnuli u modre meandre:
umjetno jezero, nimalo nalik na ovdašnje krške pro-
punte iz kojih izlijeću divlji golubovi. Krajolik je neo-
bičan i posve nalik jezerima sa švicarskih razglednica.
Uz osam kilometara jezerske obale rasuti su ljupki
zaseoci sela Ričice.
Akumulaciju napajaju dvije rječice, Ričina i Vrbica.
Brana je izgrađena 1985. godine s namjerom da
obuzda iznenadne prodore vode i povodnje u po-
lju, a voda iz akumulacije trebala je služiti natapanju.
Melioracijski sustav koji bi odvodio vodu iz akumu-
lacije, na žalost nikada nije izgrađen, pa je branom
zaustavljena voda stvorila novo jezero.
Takozvano Zeleno ričićko jezero, koje je potopilo
kuće i polja izmijenilo je krajolik, a ljudi su se ma-
hom iselili u potrazi za boljim životom. Onima koji
su ostali uz vodu, život je poprimio drugačiji sadržaj,
ustvari, nastala je nova kvaliteta življenja s vodom i
oko nje, pa se nerijetko nailazi na čamce, jedrilice,
ribiče i kupače što ovom skrovitom kutku Imotske
krajine otvara nadu u povratak iseljenih žitelja.
Govori se da u selu ima 66 izvora pitke vode, iako
njihov broj varira jer neki izvori periodično presušu-
ju, a drugi se otvaraju. Čini se da je u prapovijesti ov-
dje bilo jezero s razinom vode višom od današnje o
čemu svjedoče brojni fosili morske faune pronađe-
ni u okolnim stijenama, a u strukturi kamena vidlji-
vi su obluci nalik morskima. Sustavnog istraživanja
nije bilo. Jedino što se pouzdano zna da je predio bio
naseljen od prapovijesti, a mnogi arheološki nalazi
iz rimske i kasnijih kultura svjedoče o geostrateškoj
važnosti ovog područja.
102
There is an accumulative lake at the north-west end
of the Imotski region, by the border with Bosnia and
Herzegovina. It is isolated in every way and the local
population calls it Green Lake. It is a miracle - water
squeezed by tame hills into a blue meander, an artificial
lake nothing like other karst holes where wild pigeons
fly up into the sky. The landscape is unusual and looks
very much like a postcard of Swiss lakes. Parts of the
lovely village of Ričice are scattered along the eight
kilometers of the lake’s shore.
Two small rivers, the Ričina and the Vrbica, provide
the lake with water. A dam was built in 1985 to
prevent sudden breaches of water into the valley and
the water from the lake was to be used for irrigation.
Unfortunately, the land-improvement system, which
would bring water from the accumulative lake to the
valley, has never been built and the water stopped by
the dam formed a new lake.
Green Lake Ričice flooded the houses and the fields
and changed the landscape. The population soon
emigrated, looking for a better life. Life changed for
those who stayed by the water and became focused
on other things. Actually, people have learned to live
with the water and around it, so boats, sailing boats,
fishermen, and swimmers are a common sight and
the inhabitants of that secluded corner of the Imotski
region have started hoping that the emigrants will
return some day.
It is said there are 66 water springs in the village, but
their number varies because some springs dry out
and others become active only periodically. Fossils of
sea fauna found in the surrounding rocks and pebbles
in the rock structure which resemble those in the sea
lead us to believe that there was a lake there once
before, with a higher water level than today. Systematic
research has never been done. The only thing that is
known for sure is that the area has been populated
since the prehistoric times and many archaeological
sites from the Roman and other subsequent periods
testify to the geostrategic importance of the area.
103
104 105
 Dužinom obronaka što sa sjevera tonu u polje, od
Grančića do Rebića kuća i dalje prema istoku, do-
slovce ispod svakog kamena izvire voda i poplavlju-
je tlo. Kvrgave stare vrbe obrubljuju vodene posjede
starosjedilaca što za ljetnih vrućina presuše i postaju
KRENICE KRENICE SPRINGS zeleni pašnjaci. Izvor-vode se povuku u dubinu da
sačuvaju snagu, krajolik prelazi iz plavog u zeleno, a
endemska imotska gaovica (Phoxinellus adsperus), s
vodom se povlači u podzemna jezera, rijeke i vrela
da bi, kad kiše dođu, izbila na površinu u jatima za-
jedno s novom vodom. Kreketanje žaba, patke, šaš,
mali svijet kukaca, biljno i životinjsko bogatstvo i mi-
ris vode, stvaraju osobit ugođaj, potpuno netipičan
za „bezvodni“ krš.
Krenice zauzimaju prostor polja dug približno je-
dan kilometar i dubok oko 200 m. Voda je na vre-
lima duboka i do 8 m, a kad presuši, ostaju duboke
jame. Stanovnici drže da se na dubini od petnaestak
metara ispod Krenica nalazi veliko podzemno jezero.
Kad su rađena geološka bušenja na izvorištima, voda
je katkad izbijala pod velikim tlakom poput gejzira,
iako je na površini već bila presahnula.
Legedna o propuntavanju Gavanovih dvora povezu-
je to mjesto s utapanjem jednog od Gavanove djece,
koje se survalo u dubinu vrela. Veza između jezerske
vode i izvorâ na Krenicama postoji u narodnoj pre-
daji, ali i pamćenju, jer se po vodostaju u Modrom
jezeru može odrediti približno vrijeme kada će izvo-
ri provreti. Voda je hladna i ukusna, odlična za piće.
Nažalost, mnoga su vrela zbog ljudskog nemara za-
trpana, ali još uvijek postoje Čančića vrilo, Vileničino
i Kupinjak, na kojemu je za vrijeme Turaka izgrađe-
na mala akumulacija i vodenica. To je ujedno jedino
vrelo na kojemu nikada nema ribe.
Prema legendi, na ovom osobitom predjelu, koji je
svojevrstan kontrapunkt kamenjaru okolnih brda,
žive vile koje noću silaze iz Vinjana Gornjih, preko
Grede niz Vrbanj, i na rosnim livadama igraju kolo,
čiji krug uvijek mora ostati otvoren. Tim bajkovitim
noćnim bićima nikada nije dana moć da postanu sa-
vršena, kao što je puni krug savršeni oblik, nego žive
kao nesavršena i tajanstvena bića uz ljudska naselja,
ispredaju svoje čarolije i ostavljaju ugažene polumje-
sečaste tragove na rosnoj travi Krenica, da podsjete
ljude na svoju prisutnost. Za svaki slučaj!
106
Along the slopes which sink into the valley in the north,
there is water that floods the ground literally under
every rock from Grančić’s to Rebić’s house and further
to the east. Lumpy old willows surround watery estates
of the local population, which dry out in the summer
heat and become green pastures. Springs retreat deep
underground to keep their strength, the landscape
changes from blue to green, and the endemic spotted
minnow (Phoxinellus adsperus) follows the water into
underground lakes, rivers, and springs, but emerges
back to the surface in flocks with the new water when
rains return. The croaking of frogs, ducks, reed, the
tiny world of insects, the richness of flora and fauna,
and the scent of water create a special effect, totally
atypical for waterless karst. Krenice occupy an area
one kilometer long and 200 meters deep. Springs water
is up to 8 meters and when the springs dry out, only
scary deep pits remain. The locals believe that there is
an underground lake some 15 meters under Krenice.
When geological research was conducted around the
springs, water would sometimes gush up under high
pressure, just like in geysers, even though the springs
had already dried out.
The legend about the sinking of Gavan’s Estate says
that one of their children was drowned there: he fell
into a deep spring. There is a bond between the lake
water and the springs of Krenice in folk tales, as well
as in the memory of the people there: you can tell
when the springs will come to life by the water level
in Blue Lake. The water is cold and tasty, excellent to
drink. Unfortunately, many springs have been buried
due to human negligence, but Čančić, Vileničko, and
Kupinjak springs are still there. During the Turkish rule,
a small accumulative lake and a water mill were built on
Kupinjak. That is the only spring where fish never come
to the surface.
According to a legend, fairies live in that special
part of the valley which is a counterpoint to the
surrounding rocky hills. They come down at night to
dewy meadows where they dance in a circle that must
always remain open. Those fantasy nocturnal creatures
have never been given the power to be perfect, like a
full circle – they are imperfect and mysterious creatures
that live by human settlements, do their magic and
leave crescent-like tracks on the dewy grass of Krenice
to remind people of their presence. Just in case!
107
108 109
Imotska gaovica
Endemska vrsta
Slovenska znanstvenica Anja Palandačić je, nakon
višegodisnjih istraživanja, u travnju 2011. obrani-
la doktorsku tezu “Molekularna ekologija imotske
gaovice”. Istražujuci genetsko miješanje gaovica ko-
jih osim imotske ima još 6 srodnih vrsta (porodica
cyprinida), došla je do vrijednih saznanja, između
ostalih i da je, unatoč jakoj povezanosti nadzemnih i
podzemnih vodotokova u kršu i sposobnosti migri-
ranja gaovice od nekoliko kilometara u podzemnim
vodotokovima, imotska gaovica, s molekularnog as-
pekta, ostala je samosvojna riba koja je kao takva ži-
vjela još u srednjem miocenu tj. prije 13 milijuna go-
dina. Gaovica je međunarodno zaštićena Bernskom
konvencijom i Europskom direktivom, a u cilju podi-
zanja svijesti o vrijednosti vrste među lokalnim sta-
novništvom, Anja Palandačić održala je predavanje
u Imotskom i distribuirala letke s osnovnim podaci-
ma o ovoj, vjerojatno najstarijoj ribljoj vrsti na svijetu.
110
Imotska Gaovica
Endemic fish
Anja Palandačić, scientist from Slovenia, after years
of research, in April of 2011, dissertate her thesis
– Molecular ecology of Imotska Gaovica. By
researching the gene cross breading of gaovica types
(there are six more types of this species – family
of cyprinida), she came to valuable discovery that
Imotska gaovica is still pure in molecular aspect, even
it is capable to migrate through carst channels both
on and below ground for miles, and that it lived in
middle Miocene, some 13 million years ago. Gaovica is
internationally protected species by Bern Convention
and European directive, all for the sake of raising the
consciousness of local population on importance
of it. Anja Palandačić, held a seminar in Imotski and
distributed large number of pamphlets with some
basic information on this, most probably oldest fish
species in the world.
111
 2007. godine svjedočili smo nastanku novog jezera
u jugozapadnom dijelu Imotskog polja. Zemlja se
iznenada urušila u promjeru 70 x 50 m, a utonuće se
NOVONASTALO JEZERO BUĆUŠA NEW LAKE BUĆUŠA ispunilo vodom.
Okolni stanovnici jezeru su dali naziv Bućuša, a nje-
govo je nastajanje izazvalo nemalu bojazan jer se po-
lako širi, a vjerojatno i produbljuje. Geolozi o ovoj
pojavi još nisu izrekli svoj sud, ali je ona očit dokaz
kako nas priroda uvijek može iznenaditi. Stanovnici
Imotske krajine, navikli živjeti uz suha i vodena jezera
i jame, nisu se previše začudili ovoj pojavi.
112
Last year, in 2007, we witnessed the making of a new
lake in the south-west part of the Imotski Valley. The
ground suddenly collapsed and the 50 to 70 meter
wide hole filled with water.
People from the area named the lake Bućuša (Splash)
and its creation caused great concern because it is
slowly spreading and probably getting deeper as well.
Geologists have not commented on the event, but it
is a convincing proof that nature can always surprise
us. The people of the region, used to living by dry
lakes, freshwater lakes, and pits, were not particularly
surprised.
113
114 115
 Krš je osobito određen posebnim površinskim ob-
licima i podzemnom dreniranjem. Različiti utjecaji
vode rezultiraju varijacijama nadzemnih i podzemnih
krških oblika, također su zaslužni za nastajanje razno-
likih geološko-morfoloskih oblika, i jos više, osobite flo-
BRISTA BRISTA re i faune. Hidrologija kao znanstvena disciplina, iako
kroz dugo etabliranu znanost, ne može se lako primi-
jeniti na krške krajeve koji imaju jako složen drenažni
sustav. Osobit pristup je međutim potreban kako bi
se shvatilo i predvidjelo kruženje vode u tim podrućji-
ma. (...) Ujedno je istina da se prva teorija o kruženju
vode u kršu razvila sukladno iskustvima stečenim u
području dinarskog krša. To se lako može i objasniti
činjenicom da stanovnici tih područja nemaju mjesta
za bijeg kao što je slučaj u drugim zemljama.
Prof Ognjen Bonacci, Karst Hydrology, Spring-Verlag,
Berlin / Heidelberg 1987
U jedinoj naseljenoj vrtači Bristi koju voda povreme-
no plavi sve do ruba kuća naselja Vilenice, ljudi još
uvijek žive između suše i povodnja. Mišljenje isku-
snog stručnjaka više je nego primjenjivo na neistra-
ženu kršku vrtaču. Prije svih budućih znanstvenih
istraživanja, vile iz Briste stanovat će i dalje u dječjim
pričama.
116
Karst is characterized particulary by special landforms
and subsurface drainage. The various action of water
result in numerous variation of surface and sub-
surface karst forms. They also bring about distinctive
geologic-morfologic forms, and more strikingly, specific
flora and fauna. The scientific discipline of hydrology,
altrough a long-established science, cannot easiliy
be applied to karst region with their very complex
drainage system. A special approach is therefore
necessary to understand and predict water circulation
in these areas. (...) It is equally true that the first
theories on water circulation in karst were developed
according to experiences in Dinaric karst. This can
easily be explained. Inhabitants in those areas had
no place to which to escape, as was the case in other
countries.
Prof Ognjen Bonacci, Karst Hydrology, Spring-Verlag,
Berlin / Heidelberg 1987
In a unique settle circ Brista which is temporary under
water untill the edge of a small village named Vilenice,
the people still live between drought and flooding
periods. Opinion of prestigious expert is more than
applicable to this noninvestigated karstic landform.
Untill the time of future scientific researches, fairies
from Brista will live in children-tales.
117
118 119
 Oduvijek smo prijateljevali s čatrnjama u našim dvo-
rištima, avlijama, vrtlima. Iz tajanstvene hladne dubi-
ne grabili smo sićom vodu dok bi lanac veselo zvec-
kao o krunu. Duboko dolje, na uznemirenoj površini,
zrcalio se odraz naših lica kojega smo upamtili i nosili
ČATRNJE THE STORY OF THE WELLS kroz život kao vlastitu mjeru.
Prvi pisani spomen cisterni nalazimo kod Moabljana
(8.st.prije Krista), ali i tisućljećima ranije, kao npr. u
Mikeni gdje je pronađena cisterna ispod same kra-
ljevske palače. Cisterne su također građene u rim-
skim logorima (castrumima), čiji je položaj bio uvje-
tovan vojno-strateškim razlozima, a u blizini nije bilo
izvora ili rijeka.
Ljudi u kršu odavno su znali kako sačuvati vodu.
Zalihe kišnice sakupljene u kratkoj kišnoj sezo-
ni trebale su potrajati do slijedećih obilnijih kiša.
Prvobitno su čatrnje dubljene u živcu kamenu i to
na mjestima gdje je bilo moguće sabirati vodu ili je
tlo bilo nepropusno.
Pojavom suvremenijih građevinskih materijala, malo
pomalo, počele su se graditi i javne čatrnje veće za-
premine. Stoga je naplav ili perimetar (sabirna kosina
međusobno povezanih glatkih kamenih ploča ogra-
đena zidom) zauzimao veliku površinu, često znatan
dio brda, kao npr. u Krstaticama.
Naknadno se čatrnje sve više približavaju kući, a
voda se žljebovima slijeva s krovova. Gornja ravna
površina nad čatrnjom nerijetko se pretvarala u tera-
cu natkrivenu odrnom, koja je pružala dodatnu za-
štitu od sunca. Ograđeni otvor čatrnje zove se kruna,
zidana klesanim kamenom ili je monolitna, a iznad
krune visio je metalni sić. U svojoj krutoj rustici takva
kruna po ljepoti jedva zaostaje za krunama u starim
gradskim palačama u kojima su najčešće umjetnički
izrađene primjenom arhitektonskih i kiparskih deko-
rativnih elemenata. Ipak, svaka je kruna nemjerljivo
vrijedna u svojoj funkciji i simbolici, stoga joj i na-
ziv potječe od kraljevskog simbola i najskupocjeni-
jeg uresa.
Na našoj fotografiji snimljena je stara fratarska čatrnja
koju je prvi gvardijan vojne župe Gospe od anđela,
fra Stipan Vrljić, nakon izgona Turaka iz Imotskoga
(1717.), gradio istodobno sa samostanom, i završio
120
We have always liked wells in our backyards, courts, and
gardens. We would get water from their mysterious
cold depths, while the chains on the buckets would
rattle gaily against the crowns of the wells. Deep down,
in the rippled water, we could see a mirror image of our
faces. We remembered it and carried it through life as
our personal standard.
People living in karst learned how to preserve water a
long time ago. Supplies of rainwater, collected during
the short rainy season, were supposed to last until the
next abundant rain. Initially, wells were cut in stone
where water was easy to collect or where the ground
was watertight. Little by little, thanks to modern
construction materials, public wells of a larger capacity
started to be built. Therefore, the deposit or perimeter
(an inclined surface for collecting water made of
interlocking smooth stone plates and enclosed by
a wall) occupied a large area, often a large portion of
a hill, like in Krstatice. Later, wells were built closer to
houses and the water collected from the roofs was
channelled into them by flutes. The upper flat surface
of a well would often become a terrace protected
from the sun by an awning of grapevines. The enclosed
opening of a well is called a crown. It is built of carved
stone or monolith and a metal bucket is placed above
it. Its ruff rustic beauty is a perfect counterpart to a
crown in an old town palace, decorated with artistic
and architectural motifs. However, every crown is
immensely valuable because of its function and
symbolism. That is how a crown of a well got its name:
it is a royal symbol and the most precious ornament.
The well in our photograph is an old friars’ well built
by Friar Stipan Vrljić, the first guardian of the military
parish Our Lady of Angels, after the Turks were forced to
leave Imotski (in 1717). It was built with the monastery
and finished in 1774. The well was meant to be for
public use, while the friars used an older well inside the
monastery, which remained from the Turkish period.
Even today the water in the well is kept crystal clear,
just in case of an emergency, and Franciscans attire its
crown with red geraniums instead of crown jewels.
The lack of fresh water became a global issue. Millions
of people in undeveloped countries cannot have even
a glass of water a day and the problem affects children
and the disabled most. Today, when we champion
121
1774.godine. Čatrnja je bila namijenjena javnoj upo-
trebi, dok su fratri za svoje potrebe koristili još stariju
unutrašnju čatrnju zaostalu iz turskog doba. Danas
u njoj miruje kristalna voda, zlu ne trebalo, a imotski
fratri ovjenčaju joj krunu crvenim điranima za ugo-
du oku.
Nedostatak pitke vode postao je prvorazredni svjet-
ski problem. Milijuni ljudi u siromašnim zemljama
Azije i Afrike nemaju niti jednu čašu vode dnevno,
a najugroženija su djeca i nemoćni.
U današnje vrijeme, kada zagovaramo održivi razvi-
tak i razumno gospodarenje prirodnim resursima,
zanemarili smo drevna znanja čuvanja pitke vode
poznata civilizaciji već više tisućljeća.
Nažalost, i u našem kraju, perimetri mnogih javnih
čatrnja obrasli su korovom, a spremnici su oštećeni
ili čak zatrpani. Ne bismo li konačno trebali razmisliti
o ponovnom osposobljavanju mnogih naših čatrnja,
i to ne samo zbog kulturno-povijesnih razloga, nego
zbog dragocjene vode koja, očuvana u hladnoj du-
bini, znači sam život.
Oduvijek se znao krški ritam voda, zimi su tekle ne-
bom, zemljom i podzemljem, a ljeti samo pod ze-
mljom. Kako reče pjesnik “čatrnja je kocka kućne
vode”, mjesto gdje se, čudom, voda pretvarala u krv.
Voda iz brojnih imotskih čatrnja više nikomu ne tre-
ba jer stiže u kuće vodovodom, cijevima, no već se
sluti zlo vrijeme kada ćemo zahvalno hodočastiti na
čatrnje što su preostale; nama novovjekim žednim
putnicima samo će vile pokazivati put što je dračom
zarastao.
122
sustainable development and reasonable use of natural
resources, we keep forgetting the ancient skill of water
preservation, known to civilizations for thousands of
years.
The Moabs were the first to write about water tanks in
the 8th century B.C., but remains of water tanks date
from much earlier periods - a tank was found under the
royal palace in Mycenae. Cisterns were built in Roman
camps (castra) because sometimes there would be no
springs or rivers near them, since their location was
determined by military and strategic goals.
Unfortunately, even in our region perimeters of many
public wells are overgrown with weeds and tanks are
damaged or even buried. Maybe we should finally
consider the possibility to restore many of our wells,
not just for cultural and historical reasons, but also
because water preserved in their cold depths is very
valuable - it means life!
The rhythm of karst waters was always known. They
flew in the sky, earth and underworld over winter, and
during the summer only under the ground. Like one
poet said, “Well is a cube of house water”, a place where
it was stored by magic and turned into blood.
Water from numerous house wells of Imotski is no
longer needed for anyone, for the water comes through
water supply, pipes, but hard times are sensed to come,
when we will make pilgrimage to house wells that are
left to live; to us, new age humans, only fairies will show
the way that is overgrown with thorns and bush.
123
124 125
126 127
128 129
 Kad sam pozvana da napišem kratki osvrt o ovoj
knjizi, željela sam vjerovati da razlog tome nije moje
zanimanje i moj dugogodišnji rad u uglednoj izda-
vačkoj kući, nego činjenica da sam Imoćanka. A mi
Imoćani, ma gdje bili, uvijek ostajemo braća po ka-
POGOVOR EPILOGUE menu. A kako sam usto Bazaranka na „privremenom
radu u Zagrebu“ (i tako, evo, već gotovo 40 godi-
na), bojim se da moj tekst ne bude previše emoti-
van. Naime, ja još duboko vjerujem da nebo nigdje
nije tako modro kao u mome Imotskom, da kamen
nigdje nije toliko bijel i topao kao na pročeljima dra-
gih kuća moga grada, ni da vode nigdje nisu tako
božanstveno bistre. Znanost kaže da je čovjek iskon-
ski i neraskidivo povezan s vodom. I ja istinski vjeru-
jem u to. Prisjećajući se svog djetinjstva, prisjećam
se prozirne i hladne Vrljike, koja nam je doslovce ži-
vot značila. Vraćaju mi se i slike mojih prvih nespret-
nih i bojažljivih zaveslaja rukama u Modrom jezeru
dok sam pokušavala naučiti plivati, kad mi se činilo
da je znati plivati jednako važno kao i znati hodati.
Sjećam se koliko sam se divila Modrome i Crvenom
jezeru i istodobno ih se bojala. Često sam ostajala
nijema pred zastrašujućom ljepotom i tajanstveno-
šću njihovih strmih litica. No kad danas držim u ruci
ovu prelijepu malu zavičajnu monografiju, postajem
svjesna da sam živjela djetinjstvo u čudesno pito-
mom skladu krša i vode koji sam ponijela sa sobom
u život kao neizmjerno drag zavežljaj.
Ja za ovakve knjige znam reći da su poslastica za
dušu, da su bonbončić - monografije. Samo su vr-
hunski majstori fotografije i zaljubljenici u prirodu
znali odabrati prave motive, ponukati izvore i Vrljiku
da se pokažu u svoj svojoj raskošnoj ljepoti, zaro-
niti u mračnu, hladnu i prijeteću dubinu Crvenog
jezera ili nam objektivom dočarati bistrinu krških
vodotoka.
Iskreno me veseli da smo bogatiji za još jednu zavi-
čajnu knjigu. Njoj će se razveseliti svi oni kojima je
Imotski u srcu, a nadam se da će pronaći put do onih
koji su otvoreni za ljepotu sačuvane, gotovo neta-
knute prirode. A upravo nam se takva nudi na stra-
nicama ove knjige. Imotska ljepota kamena i vode,
koju i ja osjećam svojom. I znam tako će biti uvijek.
Zlata (Marinović) Babić
130
When I was asked to write a review of this book, I
wanted to believe that the reason for it was not my job
and many years of service in a respectable publishing
house, but the fact that I am from Imotski. And people
from Imotski, wherever they might be, remain brothers
in stone for life. Since I am from Bazana and temporary
working in Zagreb (for some 40 years now), I am afraid
that my text will be overly emotional. Namely, I still
deeply believe that there is no other place on earth
where the sky is that blue, stone on the facades of
town houses that white and warm, and water that
divinely clear. Science says that the bond between man
and water is primal and unbreakable. I truly believe it.
Remembering my childhood, I can see the images of
the clear and cold Vrljika, which literary meant life for
us and my first awkward and insecure strokes in Blue
Lake while I was learning how to swim. It seemed to
me then that swimming was as important as walking.
I remember how I admired Blue and Red Lake and
how afraid I was of them at the same time. I often
stood speechless in front of their terrifying beauty and
mystery of their steep cliffs. But today, when I hold this
beautiful monograph of my home, I am aware that I
lived my childhood in a miraculously tame harmony of
karst and water, which I carry with me through life as a
priceless gift.
I like to say that books like this are food for the
soul, candy-monographs. Only the top masters of
photography and nature lovers knew how to pick the
right motifs, how to make springs and the Vrljika unveil
their glamorous beauty, how to dive into the dark, cold,
threatening depths of Red Lake or to make us see the
clearness of karst streams through a lens.
I am honestly thrilled that we are richer for yet another
book about the land of my childhood. All those who
keep Imotski in their hearts will be exhilarated and I
hope the book will find its way to all the hearts open to
the beauty of the preserved, almost untouched nature
presented on the pages of this book. It is the beauty
of Imotski, the beauty of rock and water that I call my
own. And I know I will always feel that way.
Zlata (Marinović) Babić
131
 AUTORI AUTHORS

132 133

Rođena 1947. Gimnaziju završila u Imotskom, stu-
dirala romanske jezike na Filozofskom fakultetu u
Zagrebu. Bavila se prevođenjem za više redakci-
ja NIPa Vjesnik, objavljivala reportaže i intervjue u
Vjesniku i Slobodnoj Dalmaciji, književne i likov-
ne kritike u Imotskim novinama, priče za djecu u
Modroj lasti, reportaže u glasilu Franjevačkog sa-
mostana Imotski Grad na gori. Godinama pisala
uvodne teme za međunarodni festival mandolinista
Mandolina Imota. Bila je uvodničarka i recenzentica
većeg broja knjiga (osobito poezije), s autorskim tek-
stovima sudjelovala u vise zavičajnih monografija (U
kamenu čvor i Glumci u Zagvozdu).
Godine 2006. objavila je zapaženu radio-dramu
Oslobođenje Imotskog od Turaka AD 1717.
2007. (u suautorstvu) objavljuje zavičajnu monogra-
fiju Imotski u razglednici.
2008. s Lukom Kolovratom objavljuje prvo izdanje
knjige Imotske modre vode, a suautori pripremaju i
dvije preostale knjige zavičajne trilogije.
2009. objavljuje godine zbirku priča zasnovanih na
imotskoj etnološkoj baštini U vilinskom kolu.
Pod dobrim imotskim suncem diše i piše.
134
MAJA DELIĆ PERŠEN
Born in 1947. After graduating from Imotski high
school studied romance languages at the University
of Zagreb. Former translator for Vjesnik newspaper
group and former journalist in Vjesnik and Slobodna
Dalmacija dailies. Wrote literary and art reviews for
the local newspaper Imotske novine, children stories
for Modra lasta and texts for Franciscan monastery’s
bulletin “Imotski Grad na gori”. Long-time collaborator
of international mandolin festival Mandolina Imota.
Wrote prefaces and reviews for numerous books
(especially poetry collections) and monographs
dedicated to her native region (“U kamenu čvor”,
“Glumci u Zagvozdu”).
Author of radio drama “1717 - Liberation of Imotski
from the Turks”, 2006.
Co-author of monograph “Imotski on postcards”, 2007.
Co-author of monograph “Blue Waters of Imotski”
(with Luka Kolovrat), 2008.
Author of a short story collection “U vilinskom kolu”,
based on folk-lore, 2009.
Lives and works under the kind sun of Imotski.
rođen je 1971. godine. Osnovnu i srednju školu za-
vršio je u Imotskom, potom Fakultet organizacije i
informatike u Varaždinu. Pisao je i fotografirao za
Slobodnu Dalmaciju, Imotske novine, Imotsku kra-
jinu, Makarsku kroniku, Hrvatske vode, Otvoreno
more, a trenutno je urednik ronjenja u časopisu
Navigator i glavni urednik portala o ronjenju www.
gorgonija.com i gradskog portala www.imotski.hr.
Ronjenjem se aktivno se bavi od 1989. godine, a do
sada je održao dvije samostalne izložbe na temu
podvodne fotografije kojom se također godinama
bavi.
2008. s Majom Delić Peršen objavljuje prvo izdanje
knjige Imotske modre vode, a suautori pripremaju i
dvije preostale knjige zavičajne trilogije.
Živi u Imotskom, radi kao direktor ureda Turističke
zajednice.
luka kolovrat
Born in 1971. Graduated from Imotski high school and
Varaždin School of Organization and Informatics of
the University of Zagreb. Journalist and photographer
in various dailies and periodicals: Slobodna Dalmacija,
Imotske novine, Imotska krajina, Makarska kronika,
Hrvatske vode, Otvoreno more. In Navigator magazine
edits diving section. Editor-in-chief of www.gorgonija.
com (diving web-site) and www.imotski.hr (official
municipality web-site).
Since 1989, active diver and underwater photographer
with two realized individual exhibitions.
Co-author of monograph “Blue Waters of Imotski”
(with Maja Delić Peršen), 2008.
Head of Tourist Board of Imotski..
135
 BO
SN
AI
HE
RC
EG
OV
IN
A

Manastir

IMOTSKI
ZAHVALE ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

www.tz-imotski.hr

www.imotski.hr

www.radioimotski.hr

www.gorgonija.com

www.hpd-imotski.hr