ASSEMBLING A GARMENT

Semester 3-Lec7
Srimala Perera
Dear Daruwane,
2
Hope you all checked the comments I gave for your individual PD stories (When you press “Grade” , you
will get your story)
Some have
It took lot of time for me to give you individual feed back, which I did very happily. done a good
Please go through the comments cautiously to understand your strong and weak areas. job. They will
see the benefit
What I wrote as comments in your story was, How I felt as soon as I read your story.
of it in their
What ever I wrote, it was to motivate you to improve, improve and improve…… careers.
Motivation can be three fold.
One can motivate you for something important IN THREE WAYS using a REWARD (gift) , a PUNISHMENT or
simply INSPIRING you towards the important goal. I believe in the latter because you all are adults now.
Therefore, I expected that,
after reading my lec. Note, participating in discussion forums, etc. you will be
INSPIRED to start writing a PD story and then….
by reading good English articles to find more about the PD process, you will be
inspired to improve your English,
SO YOU WILL TRY TO LEARN THE NEW WORDS, GOOD SENTENCE PATTERNS IN THE ARTICLES ,
AND WRITE YOUR STORY IN YOUR BEST POSSIBLE ENGLISH.
NOT JUST COPY-PASTE IT TO CONVINCE ME THAT YOU DID SOMETHING.
Federal Seam types continued …. 3

 Last week we talked about four seam types. Hope you all remember those.
 There are some other seam types which do not come under the above four categories.
 We will learn about those today.
 Before that, I want to make you all remember one thing…
 THESE ARE JUST STANDARDS. There are many standards made by different customers.
Before they start working with the manufacturing country, they usually explain their
standards to the manufacturer. Then, you have to adhere to that through out the
process.
 Federal standard and the British standard are commonly used. And the difference is the
way they name seams.
 So when you learn one standard , with that base, you can get use to your customer’s
standard quickly.
 Therefore, though I explain only one standard here, you have to understand and get use
to your customer’s requirement in your future career.
 How do you finish the edge of your skirt (HEM)?

5. Edge finishing/neatening (EF)

This seam is used to prevent the edges of the fabric from rolling or curling.
E.g. Mostly used on knitted garments and hemming

This site gives you many good information to read and LEARN
https://sewguide.com/all-about-seam-finishes/
6. Decorative/Ornamental stitching 5

 These stiches are done for the purpose of decorating (to make the garment
aesthetically pleasing)

Beauty of
PINTUCKS
Let’s finish at ornamental stitching today.
Because………
We are going to do a small activity to LEARN
more about seams today.
As a Garment Technologist in this industry, you need to know more
about seams. Really?…Why?

As I said, making a seam is the first step in assembling a garment.

You have to have a thorough knowledge to do a good JOB in assembling, matching to your
customer requirements and fitting to your manufacturing capabilities.
Further, seams add aesthetics, and give a functionality to a garment.
Depending on fabric properties, we have to select best seam for the end use.
When you add a seam to a fabric , at that seam line you can change the fabric properties (e.g.
Make the fabric stronger), induce durability to the garment..etc.
 Really?…Why?

So many problems occur in a garment factory due to seams of a garment.

It can be the technique used to make the seam, failure of the seam after finishing the garment,
seam not-matching to the fabric used etc...

And whenever a problem in this area occurs the management or the customer turns to you.
Because you all go there as Technologists. Then you should be able to solve it quickly.

Therefore, we MUST have a good knowledge as well as more importantly a FEEL about SEAMS.

To get a feel of something , what should we do?

WE SHOULD DO IT? Shouldn’t we ?

SO LET’s DO IT.
 HOW?

I will upload a set of images of SEAMs. What you should do is…..

1)Make the seams relevant to your serial number (1,2,3..) using any small fabric pieces at
home (old, un used etc).
2)Then make a one page doc.
a)With images of seams you saw and the relevant line drawing of it
b) Show at least three uses of it. You can use pictures of that seam in your garments or
check for images in web and use it.
(those who don’t have computers can draw and send as usual)
That’s what you have to do and submit…….

In addition to uploading the above, to FEEL the seam,

MOST IMPORTANTLY, when you make it
understand the technique of doing it (will be helpful to do industrial engineering in the industry)
Feel the strength of the seam by pulling it sideways.
Check the suitability of the fabric you used for that seam (you can use a transparent
fabric and see how the seam affects look, or can use a thick fabric…..)
Understand, the functionality that seam will suit for. and any other thing that you got
to know by reading more about seams.
Always note down your findings for your future use.
I made two seams for you to see. I hand stitched one using just a needle and thread. And
stitched the other using the domestic machine. You can use any method.
9
French Seam- SSae
Hand Stitched

Line
Line Drawing Drawing

End View of the seam- This view is

taken to draw the Line drawing

3D View of the seam

Flat Seam-Fsa 10

Machine stitched(zig zag)

3D View of a flat seam

Line drawing
Hope to see each one of your 11

creativity also in the said activity.

Hope to see you all soon

Stay safe and be healthy