CREATING TOMORROW`S SOLUTIONS

BELSIL® Phenyl-modified silicones

2014 NY SCC Supplier’s Day

Phenyl modified Silicones 0

Multiple benefits of phenyl-modified silicones in color cosmetic,
hair and skin care

The use of phenyl-modified silicones can improve the performance in many

aspects:
 Improved gloss

 Silky, non-sticky skin feel

 Improved depth of color

 Reduced agglomeration of powders

 Increase of pigment distribution

 Reduced combing forces

 Improved humidity resistance

Phenyl modified Silicones 1

The attribute “gloss” is found predominately in products for lips

GNPD search for the term “gloss” ranked according to applications

Lip Colour Cosmetics - Lip

Colour
Nail Colour Cosmetics

Multi-Use

Hair Colourants

Eye Colour Cosmetics - Eye

Shadow
Hair Styling

Lip Care

Hair Treatments

Source: Mintel GNPD

Phenyl modified Silicones 2

BELSIL® - Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone

CH3

H3C Si CH3

CH3 CH3 O CH3

H3C Si O Si O n
Si O m
Si CH3

CH3 CH3 CH3

INCI: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone

Phenyl modified Silicones 3

BELSIL® - Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone

BELSIL® PDM 20 BELSIL® PDM 1000

Viscosity at 25°C [cst] 20 1000

Refractive Index nD 25°C 1,440 1,461

Phenyl Content [mol %] 14 25

Average MW [g/mol] 1000 3000

Melting Point [°C] -65 -20

Phenyl modified Silicones 4

Solubility of BELSIL® PDM 20

Synthetic Oils S* Silicone Oils S* Alcohols S*

Mineral Oil  Cyclopentasiloxane  Oleyl Alcohol 
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate  BELSIL® DM 0.65  Octyldodecanol 
Isopropylmyristate  BELSIL® DM 1 plus  Glycerol N
Isopropylpalmitate  BELSIL® DM 10  Propylenglycol N
Decyl Oleate  BELSIL® DM 100  Isopropanol 
Caprylyl/CapricTriglyceride  BELSIL® PDM 20  Ethanol 
PEG 7- Glyceryl Cocoate  BELSIL® PDM 1000 
Ethylhexylsalicylate  Natural Oils S*
Castor oil p
Olive oil 
Jojoba oil 
* SOLUBLE

Phenyl modified Silicones 5

Comparison of Phenyl modified silicone fluids products against
products with INCI: Phenyltrimethicone (e.g. DC 556)

Standard Silicone Fluid for Shine BELSIL® PDM fluids

CH3

CH3 Si CH3
CH3 CH3

CH3 CH3 O CH3

H3C Si O Si O Si CH3

CH3 O CH3 CH3 Si O Si O Si O Si CH3

n m

H3C Si CH3 CH3 CH3 CH3

n = 1-3
CH3 n

INCI: INCI:
Phenyltrimethicone Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone
 Refractive index: 1.46  Refractive index: 1.44 - 1.46

 Viscosity: 22.5 m2s  Viscosity: 20 or 1000 m2s

 High shine plus feel and spreadability

Phenyl modified Silicones 6

Product launches containing BELSIL® PDM 20 or PDM 1000
(data until January 2014)

GNPD lists 261 product launches with INCI “Trimethylsiloxyphenyl

Dimethicone”

Lip Colour
Hair Treatments
Concealer
Shampoo
Blush
Hair Styling
Foundations / Fluid Illuminators
Multi-Use
Conditioner
Lip Care

Source: Mintel GNPD

Phenyl modified Silicones 7

Gloss and long-lasting are most important performance claims
for lip care products

Most Popular Product Claims for Lip Care products

70.00%
60.00%
50.00%
40.00%
30.00%
20.00%
10.00%
0.00%

Moisturising / Hydrating Botanical/Herbal

Brightening / Illuminating*
Long-Lasting*
UV Protection
Dermatologically Tested
Vitamin/Mineral Fortified
Ethical - Animal
Paraben Free
Ethical - Environmentally Friendly Package
Source: Mintel GNPD

Phenyl modified Silicones 8

BELSIL® - Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone
in Color Cosmetics

Performance benefits formulating

with BELSIL® PDM additives
 Improve of the depth of color

 Reduction of powder agglomeration

 Increase of pigment distribution

 Increase of gloss and shine

 Smooth and soft feel

 Typical use level: 1- 50%

Phenyl modified Silicones 9

BELSIL® - Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone
in Color Cosmetics – lipstick formulations

Phase Trade Name INCI-name 25CC13 26CC13 28CC13 29CC13

A BELSIL® DM 1000 Dimethicone 9,00
A BELSIL® DM 20 Dimethicone 9,00
A BELSIL® PDM 1000 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone 9,00
A BELSIL® PDM 20 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone 9,00
A HDK® N20 Silica 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00
A Isopropylmyristat Isopropyl Myristate 23,00 23,00 23,00 23,00
A Prisorine 3515 Isostearyl Alcohol 13,00 13,00 13,00 13,00
A Tegosoft DEC Diethylhexyl Carbonate 15,00 15,00 15,00 15,00
B Beeswax bleached Beeswax 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00
B BELSIL® CDM 3526 VP C26-28 Alkyl Dimethicone 6,00 6,00 6,00 6,00
B BELSIL® CM 7026 VP C26-28 Alkyl Methicone 7,00 7,00 7,00 7,00
B Candelillawachs Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00
B Carnaubawachs Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00
B Ozokerit 6001 Ozokerite 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00
B Paracera M Microcrystalline Wax 2,00 2,00 2,00 2,00
C Antaron V-220 VP/Eicosene Copolymer 0,24 0,24 0,24 0,24
PEG-8, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic
C Oxynex K 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01
Acid, Citric Acid
C Paracera M Microcrystalline Wax 0,58 0,58 0,58 0,58
C Rizinusöl Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil 7,58 7,58 7,58 7,58
C Pigment Mix 3,59 3,59 3,59 3,59

Phenyl modified Silicones 10

BELSIL® - Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone
in Color Cosmetics – gloss test protocol

Samples preparation and test

protocol
 The lipstick composition was heated
up to 90°C and applied on the Q-
panel steel plates using a doctor
blade. The wet film thickness was
350 µm. The film was dried at room
temperature for 30 min.
 Gloss was measured with a
Spectromaster 565 -45 from
Erichsen on 5 different spots each
plate.

Phenyl modified Silicones 11

BELSIL ® - Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone
measured gloss with Spectromaster (Erichsen)

Gloss measurement according to DIN 67530 ISO 2813 / 7668 with a

Spectromaster 565 -45 from Erichsen at a reflective angle of 60°
3

0
9 % Belsil ® PDM 20 9 % Belsil ® PDM 1000 9 % Belsil ® DM 20 9% Belsil ® DM 1000

Phenyl modified Silicones 12

BELSIL® PDM 20 adds a visible gloss to lipstick formulations

Lipstick Shine Panel

30

25

20

15

10

BELSIL® PDM 20 BELSIL® DM 20

0
9% BELSIL ® PDM 20
9% BELSIL ® DM 20
Panelists were looking at the lipstick formulations in small jars. Proceed in a shine box at daylight.

Phenyl modified Silicones 13

BELSIL® PDM 1000 adds a visible gloss to lipstick formulations

Lipstick Shine Panel

9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
BELSIL® PDM 1000 BELSIL® DM 1000
0
9% BELSIL ® PDM 1000
9% BELSIL ® DM 1000
Panelists were looking at the lipstick formulations in small jars. Proceed in a shine box at daylight.

Phenyl modified Silicones 14

BELSIL® - Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone
in Hair Care applications

Performance benefits formulating

with BELSIL® PDM additives
 Increase of luster and shine

 Reduction of combing forces

 Improve of humidity resistance

 typical use level 0.5%- 30%

Phenyl modified Silicones 15

BELSIL® - Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone
shine spray tested by a panel test in shine box

BELSIL® PDM 20 BELSIL® PDM 1000

 shine evaluation by test persons in [%]  shine evaluation by test persons in [%]

32
44

56
68

BELSIL PDM Phenyl Trimethicone BELSIL PDM Phenyl Trimethicone

Phenyl modified Silicones 16

Shiny hair wax with BELSIL® PDM 20

Trade Name INCI name Conc (%)

Isopropylmyristat Isopropyl Myristate 5,00

Wollwachsalkohol Lanolin Alcohol 25,00

Paraffinöl dünnfl Mineral Oil 25,00

Paraffinwachs Paraffin 12,00

Vaseline Petrolatum 25,00

BELSIL® PDM 20 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone 8,00

Fragrance Fragrance q.s.

Phenyl modified Silicones 17

BELSIL® - Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone
in Skin Care

Performance benefits formulating

with BELSIL® PDM additives
 Improved feel of skin and sun care
products
 PDM additives are detackifier -
particularly for acrylic acid thickened
systems
 prevent sand from sticking to the
skin
 Typical use level: 0.5%- 5%

Phenyl modified Silicones 18

BELSIL® Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone
in Skin Care creams

Phase Trade Name INCI-name 22SC13 23SC13 24SC13 31SC13 32SC13

A Arlacel 165 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00

A Arlamol HD Isohexadecane 1,95 1,95 1,95 1,95 1,95

A BELSIL® DM 1000 Dimethicone 5,00

A BELSIL® DM 20 Dimethicone 5,00

A BELSIL® DM 5 Dimethicone 5,00

A BELSIL® PDM 1000 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone 5,00

A BELSIL® PDM 20 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone 5,00

A Cutina MD Glyceryl Stearate 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50

A Isopropylmyristat Isopropyl Myristate 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00

A Tegosoft TN C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 1,95 1,95 1,95 1,95 1,95

B Carbopol Ultrez 10 Carbomer 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30 0,30

B Glycerin 100% waterless Glycerin 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00

B Water Aqua (DI Water) 76,71 76,71 76,71 76,71 76,71

Natriumhydroxid (25%
C Sodium Hydroxide 0,69 0,69 0,69 0,69 0,69
solution)
C Parfum Waterlily 19 180 Parfum 0,40 0,40 0,40 0,40 0,40
Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben,
C Phenonip 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50
Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben

Phenyl modified Silicones 19

BELSIL® Silicones at 5% addition in SKIN CARE creams – PDM
Fluids allow less sticky formulations

Panel Test - criteria stickiness performed on a 20 cm² area on the forearm were
0,05g of each sample was applied and rubbed in
3

22SC13 BELSIL ® PDM 20 24SC13 BELSIL ® DM 5 32SC13 BELSIL ® DM 20

More Points in the panel test means the formulation is more sticky

Phenyl modified Silicones 20

BELSIL® Silicones at 5% addition in SKIN CARE creams – PDM
Fluids allow less sticky formulations

Panel Test - criteria stickiness performed on a 20 cm² area on the forearm were
0,05g of each sample was applied and rubbed in
3

23SC13 BELSIL ® PDM 1000 24SC13 BELSIL ® DM 5 32SC13 BELSIL ® DM1000

More Points in the panel test means the formulation is more sticky

Phenyl modified Silicones 21

Multiple benefits of Phenyl-modified silicones in Color
Cosmetics, Hair Care and Skin Care

The use of phenyl-modified silicones can improve performance in many

aspects:
 Improved gloss

 Silky, non-sticky skin feel

 Improved depth of color

 Reduced agglomeration of powders

 Increase of pigment distribution

 Reduced combing forces

 Improved humidity resistance

 The main benefit for BELSIL® PDM fluids is their ability to add gloss

Phenyl modified Silicones 22

Product launches containing BELSIL® PDM 20 or PDM 1000
(data until December 2013)

Number of product launches with INCI “Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone”

80

70

60

50

40

30

20

10

0
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013

Phenyl modified Silicones 23

Thank you for your attention

Phenyl modified Silicones 24