SKIN STRUCTURE

Being familiar with the skin, its layers, and the cells within them is extremely important for all
micropigmentation specialists. Your deeper understanding of skin structure and function will help you be better
at permanent makeup and microblading. In turn, this knowledge will provide your client superior results and
safer care.

Skin Facts:
The skin is only as thick as a few sheets of paper

Keeping this in mind when performing any Permanent Makeup Procedure will help you control your depth of the needle.
Skin is not immune to the laws of gravity

Placing eyebrows on the eyebone or below it, will make your clients eyes look droopy and sad.

Collagen and elastic production slows dramatically: 65% between age 20 and 80.

When choosing a brow shape take into consideration your client’s age and skin elasticity. Choosing the right shape can
visibly lift your client’s eye.

The thickness of the skin decreases by 6% every 10 years.

Meaning that when you work on a mature skin watch the pressure of your needle. Skin is much thinner and you have a
greater chance of going deeper into the dermal layer.
EPIDERMIS
The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin and protects the body from the environment. The thickness of
the epidermis varies in different types of skin. It is only .05mm thick on the eyelids and 1.5mm thick on the
palms and soles of the feet. At the inner part of the epidermis is where you can find melanin. Melanin is a dark
brown to black pigment that infuses color into the skin and hair. There are three kinds of melanin: (a)
Eumelanin is found in the hair, skin and dark areas around the nipples and provides black and brown pigment
to the hair, skin and eyes; (b) Pheomelanin provides pink and red colors and is the main pigment found among
red-haired individuals and also found in the hair and skin; and (c) Neuromelanin is a form of melanin found in
different areas of the brain.

5 layers of the Epidermis:

Stratum corneum - is the layer we see when we look at the skin, and the layer treated by the practitioner.
These cells are made up of keratin, a fiber protein that is also the principal component of hair and nails.
Stratum lucidum - is the clear, transparent layer just under the skin surface; it consists of small cells through
which light can pass.

Stratum granulosum - these cells are almost dead and are pushed to the surface to replace cells that are
shed from the skin's surface layer.

Stratum spinosum - is in the spiny layer at the beginning of the process that causes skin cells to shed.
Stratum germinativum (basale) - is the deepest layer of epidermis which produces new epidermal skin
cells and is responsible for the growth of epidermis. It also contains melanocytes, which produce a dark skin
pigment, called melanin.

DERMIS
The dermis is located beneath the epidermis and is the thicker of the three layers of the skin. It has two parts; a
thin, upper lag known as the papillary dermis, and a thick, lower layer known as the reticular dermis. Its
thickness varies depending on the location of the skin. For example, the dermis on the eyelids is 0.6 millimeters
thick; on the back, the palms of hands and the soles of feet, it measures 3 millimeters thick.

The main function of the dermis is to regulate body temperature and to supply the epidermis with nutrient
saturated blood. The dermis stores most of the body's water and this is where you can find the sweat glands,
hair follicles, nerve endings, collagen and elastin, blood vessels and lymph vessels.

HYPODERMIS

The hypodermis is otherwise known as subcutis or the subcutaneous layer. It is the third layer of the skin and it
consists of a network of fat and collagen cells. It functions both as insulator conserving the body's heat and as a
shock absorber protecting the inner organs. It stores fat as energy reserve for the body. The blood vessels,
nerves, lymph vessels and hair follicles also cross through this layer The thickness of the hypodermis layer
varies throughout the body and from person to person.
OVERTONES
Overtone is the shade of our skin or the color of our complexion. When we talk about overtone, we refer to the
study of the Fitzpatrick scale. The Fitzpatrick scale is a numerical classification schema for human skin color. It
was developed in 1975 by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick. In short, the Fitzpatrick is a numerical scale that measures the
amount of melanin in the skin after exposure to the sun. The scale was developed to measure how skin reacts
to ultraviolet light, or sun exposure. The Fitzpatrick scale remains a recognized tool for dermatological research
into human skin pigmentation.

ABOUT UNDERTONES
The skin also called undertone is different from the complexion or the overtone which is the shade of the skin
(light, medium, dark) as referred to in the Fitzpatrick scale.
The undertone will remain the same no matter how much sun you get during summer or if you are paler during
the cold season.
Undertone comes in WARM, COOL AND NEUTRAL.
To assess the undertone, it is best to use natural light. Different light bulbs affect the skin differently. They may
give it a yellow or green cast and interfere with the appearance of the skin tone.
To determine the predominant color of the undertone, look through the skin at the inner part of the arm or the
inside of the wrist. The color of the veins will help determine the undertone.
WARM - If the veins appear to be green, it is safe to say that is has more warm undertones. Pressing your under
arm or wrist with your fingers is another way to asses undertone. If the skin tone turns yellow after pressing,
then it is also warm.
COOL - If the veins are bluish and the skin tone turns pink when pressed, then the undertone is cool.
 NEUTRAL - If there is a mixture of warm and cool hues land you cannot tell whether the veins are green or
blue) or the undertone is the same color as your actual skin color, and the undertone tums peachy when
pressed, then the undertone is neutral. When choosing you clients color, both of you have to consider Which
color is best suited for the client. Consider how light or dark the color needs to be and do not forget the color of
the undertone.
 BASIC COLOR THEORY
Color theory is both the science and art of using colors. It explains how humans perceive color and the visual
effects of how colors mix, match and contrast with each other. Color Theory also involves the messages colors
communicate and methods used to replicate color. Colors are organized on a color wheel. A color wheel is a
visual representation of colors according to their chromatic relationship.

COMPLIMENTARY COLORS

This Photo by Unknown Author is licensed under CC BY-SA

Complimentary colors are colors that are directly opposite to each other on the color wheel.

This Photo by Unknown Author is licensed under CC BY-SA

Black & white are not considered in the color theory because black is the absence of all color and white is the
presence of all color.

BLACK, WHITE & GRAY

These neutral colors can be used to darken or lighten other colors. Adding white will make a color lighter.
Adding black will make the color darker.
 ORGANIC PIGMENTS VS INORGANIC PIGMENTS

INORGANIC
 Metallic Oxides or Synthetics
 MAYBE toxic when the amount of metals exceeds requirements
 Matte, smooth, long lasting, colorless.
 Fades to warms color
 Ing: IRON OXIDE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, MANGANESE VIOLET ULTRAMARINES Iron Oxides are technically
synthetic and are synthesized for purity before using it in pigments .

ORGANIC

 Chemically synthesized
 Considered as non-toxic Transparent, glassy, bright, non-limited colour variety and fades faster
 Fades to cool color
 Insoluble: CARBON (Carbon Black is highly light and stable and has the highest opacity of all pigments
that is why it is the riskiest for migration and accidentally creating dark ashy brows)
 Soluble: RUBINE REDS, TARTRAZINE YELLOW, LITHOL REDS, HANSA YELLOW

Color choices
Color is one of the most complex and difficult things to predict in the outcome with the practice of eyebrows.
This chapter will cover the basics of color theory when it comes to implanting pigments into the skin. All skin is
like a canvas into which we implant color. Each hue, shade, undertone and the presence of melanin contribute
to the color of the pigment which we implant into the skin. Always take into consideration the overtone or the
natural skin color and undertone which will all factor into the final color that will be into implanted into our
client's eyebrows. It is very important to always remember that Microblading always heals into a cool tone.
Color is very important to as your final color selection makes your first impression. There is no margin of error
so must get you color correct.
To get your color correct, always consider the Fitzpatrick scale, the natural undertone and the chance of
hyperpigmentation. We must be very careful when mixing colors so we can achieve the perfect shade. We
strongly advice to use higher end pigments now available in the market that are already modified into cool or
warm and that are meant to correct or neutralize undertones.
In the case that the client is a naturally warm tone, choose pigment with olive based cool colored. But if your
selection contains a lot of warm color, add a drop or two of cool tone olive based color. shot case that the client
has cool tone, your pigment selection Should be based on warm colors. But if your selection are based on cool
colors, it is recommended to add a drop or two or red orange based color to be sure that it is well balanced.
MOST IMPORTANT NOTE:
 When choosing warmer colors, it does not mean it will save you from ASHY/BLUISH results. Using the
proper technique will give you the true color and will stay nice and vibrant. Implanting any color too
deep will make it look greyish or bluish Warm colors are more red and orange and cool colors contain
more olive. Yellow based pigments are neutral colors.
 You should always choose the color closest to your client's natural hair.
 You do not need to worry as much about mixing color when using the best, highest grade pigments on
the market Errors that can likely occur with mixing color such as ending up with a muddy, dull color
which is possibly too warm or too cool can be avoided. Perma Blend has amazing color choice choose
from for warm and cool skin tones.

Color Correction Chart

The color correction chart shows the unwanted colors of eyebrows, correction color options and approximate
color result after treatment. after Please note that if you decide to correct the color, most likely one treatment
will not be enough and you will need to meet your client healing which is 30 days minimum to perform another
treatment once the old pigment neutralized.

The result
in the chart will make a shade of brown after healing. It is usually light brown with the shade of previous color.
Let the client decide whether to keep this color or go ahead with a second correction procedure and cover the
corrected color with more intense pigment.
Correctors & Toners by Permablend (Toners are used to neutralize/ prevent incorrect color healing by adding
to the pigment. It can be mixed 1:1 with target color pigment.)

 Pumpkin corrector-greyish and bluish grey brows

 Olive corrector- orange brows should be corrected by olive/green based correctors
 Golden corrector- for intense purple color
 Soft yellow- for not so intense as in 50% faded
 Gourd Toner- neutralizes green/blue brows
 Grassy Toner- red/orange brows
  Yellow Belly Toner- neutralizes blue/purple brows

What is EYEBROW EMBROIDERY?

It is a technique to implant a semi-permanent pigment that's pushed into the surface of the skin with a fine
blade to mimic the growth of your already existing hair and create bolder, natural looking brows.
It is also known by a variety, of names such as Microblading, Micro-stroking feather touch and Hair like. By
adding colored pigment to the skin, this technique fills in empty spots on your brows to give them a full and
flawless look. With a feathering technique, this procedure can produce a natural look since it uses pigments
perfectly matched to your actual eyebrow color.

Where do the Eyebrow Originate?

Eyebrow Embroidery is an Emerging Beauty Trend in the world but one that has already become wildly popular
in Asia.

Is Eyebrow Embroidery safe? How?

Yes, as with any cosmetic procedure eyebrow embroidery is safe when performed by a qualified technician. Be
sure to have a consultation with your technician before selecting your colors. Discuss the potential side effect,
which typically include temporary swelling and redness.

What is the difference between Traditional Tattoo and Eyebrow Embroidery?

Eyebrow Tattooing, the first generation of its kind, generally produces a very unnatural crayoned effect similar
to the regular tattoo on any part of the skin. The process of eyebrow tattooing involves the use of a machine
operated single needle moving at high speed, where ink is deposited deep in the dermis layer. Eyebrow
Tattooing will also fade into shades of green and blue over time as well as look patchy due to the nature of the
insertion of dye into the dermis of the skin layer.

Eyebrow Embroidery is the latest technique where a semi-permanent pigment is pushed into the skin surface
using a fine blade, which mimics the growth of your existing hair strands, creating more natural looking brows.

How is the process like?

Firstly, our professional artists will draw your eyebrows using eyebrow pencil to find a shape that matches your
face & eyes. You can request for the artist to change the shape according to your preference. Once you are
happy with the shape, you will be led into another area for embroidery.

How long does it take?

The designing & embroidery process usually takes between 1.5 to 2 hours to complete.

It is painful?
Initially, there will be a slight prick that feels like a small ant bite but once the anesthetic has penetrated into
your skin, it'll be pain-free.
Are there things I should do/avoid after the process?
The area should not come in contact with water (especially swimming, sauna & facial) for 3 days following the
embroidery. Unlike tattoo, embroidery is done on the 2nd layer of skin. Contact with water will cause it to peel
faster a it will not last as long. Simply dab it dry if the area gets wet.

Help! I have uneven patches on my new eyebrow embroidery!

Some of the color may be uneven, not pigmented enough or the shape may change after a few days. This is a
very natural and normal effect.

Do I have to come back for touch ups?

The embroidery we offer is semi-permanent so customers will have to come back for a touch up after 1 month.
During this touch up, we will rectify the problems mentioned above. Any touch ups after that (within 3 years)
will be done at a discounted rate.

I have dyed my hair. Can I choose a color that matches it?

We offer different colors for eyebrow embroidery; Dark brown, light brown, golden brown & olive are the main
colors. However, we can still mix the colors to match your iris or eyebrow hair color.

How long does the embroidery last?

It usually lasts for up to 1.5 - 2 years, depending on how you care for it.

If I have oily/pimple prone skin, will it affect the embroidery?

The embroidery may fade faster on individuals with oily skin. If a pimple appears on the embroidery right after
the process, the color may not be pigmented on that area. This will be fixed during the touch up.

Is embroidery suitable for sensitive skin?

We use plant extracts and it's natural so it should not have any negative effects on sensitive skin.

SKIN DISEASES AND DISORDERS

In permanent makeup and microblading, we work with human’s skin and it is extremely important to be able to
analyze the area you are working on and make sure it is absolutely safe and healthy.
Remember: you are not giving any diagnosis to your clients, however you need to be aware of skin conditions
and if skin appears unhealthy to you it is best to refer your client to a dermatologist prior to performing any
Permanent Makeup Procedures.
Moles- Common growth on the skin that appears when the skin cells bunch up with the tissue surrounding
them. Moles must be checked regularly with dermatologists to make sure they don’t change the shape, color or
form. In permanent makeup we do not EVER go over the mole even if it appears in the area where we are going
to work. Moles cannot be touched with the needle at all, and we will learn on how to avoid them during the
microblading procedure.
Melanoma - Abnormal moles may lead to melanoma- a severe form of skin cancer.
Rosacea- Skin condition that leads to abnormal redness and acne breakouts. Patients who have Rosacea and
want to get their eyebrows done should be aware of pigment changes in their skin. Because of the severe
redness and heat in the upper layer of the skin pigment may turn grey or blue. As a technician you need to
choose the correct pigment very carefully in order to avoid bad results.
Psoriasis - Is an autoimmune disorder. Symptoms include patches of abnormal skin, dryness, redness and very
itchy. If the area you intend to work on has any of those symptoms, you are not allowed to tattoo on it. Your
job will be to advise your patient to go to a dermatologist and get it treated first before proceeding with
permanent makeup.
Eczema - Skin rash that causes redness and itchiness on the skin and usually goes away on its own. Cannot be
worked on before it is fully healed.
Acne - Skin breakouts that appear in many different forms and severances. If the area is inflamed and contains
pus, you cannot go over it with a needle to avoid spread of infection.
Hives- Hives are itchy welts that are raised up from the normal layer of the skin. They may be caused by an
allergic reaction in the body or outside factors, such as stress, illnesses, or even tight clothes. Hives are treated
with antihistamines and preventive practices. Again, this skin condition cannot undergo permanent makeup
procedure.
Cold Sore- A cold sore is a red, fluid-filled blister usually found near the mouth. The sore itself is painful or
delicate. Other symptoms include itching or burning sensations on the site before the sore is visible. Cold sores
are caused by the herpes simplex virus, and there is no known cure for the virus. The sores may return and last
for up to 2 weeks. Medical treatment includes creams and medications. No micropigmentation procedure can
be performed on cold sores or herpes. If a person has a history of cold sores, you should instruct them to take
Valtrex (preventative medication) before the lip permanent makeup procedure (We will discuss this in more
details in class).
Keloids- Abnormal scar formation that rises above the scar area and can overgrow the borders. On a medical
form every client is asked to indicate whether they are prone to keloids. If your patient has a history of keloid
scarring, you should be extremely careful when performing microblading procedures on them. In the beginning
of your career we recommend staying away from such patients due to the lack of your experience. Skin
disorders and diseases vary greatly in symptoms and severity. We have listed a few common ones that you will
be coming across, however you should always keep in mind you are not a medical practitioner and therefore
cannot provide any diagnosis just based on your knowledge. If you notice something unusual with the skin and
the appearance does not look 100% healthy and safe to work on, ask them to see a dermatologist first and
bring you a note from a doctor if he/she allows micropigmentation to be performed