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NO. 23 NOTES FROM THE SHOP $2.50 “Woodsmith LATHE TURNING: STEP-BY-STEP TO TURNING GOBLETS BENCH PLANES: HOW TO USE THEM TO PLANE A TABLE TOP MICROWAVE CART: A VERSATILE SERVING CART Woodsmith. Sawdust Number 23 ‘September, 1962 Edtor Donald B. Peschie Design Drector ‘Ted Kralicek ‘An Director ‘Jon Snyder ‘Ascisiant Editor ‘Steve Krohmer Graphic Designers David Kreyling Marcia Simmons Subscrition Manager ‘Sandy J. Baum ‘Subscription Assistants ‘Chvistel Miner Vieky Robinson ‘Kim Malton ackie Stroud ‘Shirley Renz ‘Computer Operations ‘Kon Miner Adminitrative Assetant Chery! Scot ISSN: o16t-4114 Copyright Company. Al Rights Reserved. ‘Subscriptions: Ono year (6 issues) $10, Two years (12 issues) $18, Single copy price, $250, (Canada and Foreign: ad $2 per year) ‘Change OF Address: Please be sure to include ath your old and new address for change of ‘acdess. Nal to: Woodsmith, 1812 Grand Ave. Des Moines, lowa 50300, ecard Cat pong pat De tag: Postmaster: Sond change of address notice, ‘Form 9579, t Woodsmitn Publishing Co., 1812 Grand Ave., Des Moines, lowa 50308. BACK ISSUES Als of the contents ofall back issues appears ‘on the wrapper of this issue. Ifthe wrapper is ‘missing, ou can sand fora bookie! cesciting ‘the conterts and pices of all back issues. ‘SAMPLE COPIES: Ifyou have aftiond who would ike to se 2copy of Woodsmith, just send the name and acess, and we'l send a sample (at ro cos!) ASOUT TiS ISSUE. Whenever we get visitors here at Woodsmith, ane question that always seems to come ups, “How do you decide what projects to buld for each ‘What we usually dois try to decide on a technique before we ever get to the projects. For this issue, we thought it was time todo an article on using bench planes. ‘That naturally led to using 2 plane to smooth a table top. Which inturn led to the ‘Trestle Table. At least that’s the story 1d like to tel, What really happened is that everybody kept teasing me about the original design ofthe Trestle Table shown in the first issue ‘of Woodsmith. Pi admit that first table is notte greatest design in the world. And it has some construction faults (whichis why ‘wo're no longer offering Tesuie No. 1 with the other Back Issues). ‘But {finally got tired ofall this harass- ment and said okay, if Ted can design a new one, we'll build it and use tas a inch table here at work, ‘Now the pressure was on. Fist, we had to design a table to meet the approval af exeryone in this crazy bunch, (Ted said, “No problom.”) And ifwe were going ost at this table for lunch everyday, it also meant that the top had to be flawless. L couldn't ve with another fear years of harassment.) Needless to say, I spent a litte extra time getting the planes adjusted and sharpened. It paid off. The tabletop is Mat fand smooth, And it was all done by hand. Now everytime I walk by this table and runmy fingersacross it, Tfeelentitied toa little grin of accomplishment. Yet, | didn't always fel this way sbout using hand planes. In fact, my initial reac- tionto ahand plane was, “How inthe world ddo-you get this thing to work?” My first plane was an inexpensive (cheap) smocth plane, « Christmas gif, given to me (I was sare) to test my pz. ence and drive me up the wall. ‘Ofcourse, when I frst took it out ofthe box, was delighted. There were instant Visions of an old-time woodworking shop «. « paper-thin shavings seattered over ite ocr; hand-planing exotie hardwoods to reveal beautfal grain; and the peaceful solitude of woodworking done the old- fahioned way ‘But.as soon as tried to use it, my dream was shattered. I quickly came to realize that s plane is just an expensive piece of iron that doesa’t work. The dumb thing hops and chatters all over the wood, it tears out scetions that have to be sanded smooth later i's impossible to adjust, and it ruins good wood. In general, it causes more frustration than its worth. It took some time, but I eventually learned how toconguer this tool. Now, one ‘of my favorite pastimes isto head hack to the shop and fill the floor ‘with all those paper-thin shavings I firs. dreamed of. ‘There are times, of coarse, when I'mnot ‘off on one of these romantic ings. There's work to be done — like smooth the top of ‘Trestle Table. Then that once-dreaded hand plane becomes an invaluable tool ‘What kind of plane would you recom- mend for someone just starting out? I think the best plane isthe onethat gets the most use. In oar shop that means a Record “05" jack plane with 1 corrugated ‘bottom. This one plane has smoothed al- most every table top, cabinet side and panel shown in Woedsmith. (This plane is available through several catalogs, but the ‘one with the best price ($49) is Garre:t Wade, catalog $8, 161 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10013.) Although the Record jack plane is areal ‘workhorse, one of my favorite planes to work with is a Primus Reform-Type smooth plane, This is a wooden-bodied plane that feeis good in your hands, and has one of the best depth-adjusting systems of any plane made. (It's also avai able from Garrett Wade for $99.) NEW FACES. Lately it seems when T'm ‘not baek in the shop working with planes, Tm trying to lower the unemployment rate. Shirley Renz has signed on to heip eater new subscriptions and back issue Since Shirley is the “new kid on the block,” everyone here agrees that if there are any whatsoever with any ‘order, it must be Shirley's fault. ust kid- ding, she's doing a terific ob.) ITSA HOY. As of 5:30 AM on the day I'm writing this, Steve (our assistant editor) and his wife Janet have just added a new face of their own: Baby Boy (no rame yet) Krohmer, 7 Is. 1 oz, Congratulations. Steve turned the two goblets shown in this issue the ealls them Wooderford ‘crystal It won't belong before both Steve and Ted start dreaming up all sorts ofplans and projects for children's furnitare. (Ted and Mindy’s baby girl, Katie, just took her first steps today. She'll be one year young ‘on Thanksgiving day.) ‘THE SCHEDULE. We are still trying toget ‘back on our intended schedule for maiinse issues of Woodemith. We're makin progress, but the next issue (Number 24) Will stil bea litte late. We hope to have it in the mail during the first week in December. 2 WoopsMITH Tips & Techniques ‘OUCHLESS KNOBS In your article on comparing router do- veiail fixtures (Woodemith No.22), you ‘mentioned that the knobs on the Sears fixture gave you sore fingers. | eliminated that problem on my Sears dovetail fixture slong ime ago, AIT did was oreplace the bir pereg euarpeer erg rat, [ use a holesaw to drill « 2° diameter (realy any size wll work) “plug” tat of a pee of #4 poplar. Although this roices a perfect crete, the outside edge 58 too rough to be used sa handwheel To smooth the oatsbe diameter ofthe “phag’ [insert a 20 bolt through the ‘hole left by the holesaw, andattach a nut to secure it on the bolt. Then T chuck the “pug” in a dnll press (a lthe oF oven an clectrc dl wil lso work), aed round the edges so that they're smooth. Finally, enlarge the holo to insert 1'V¢ inside diameter tee-aut Simply hesure the tee-nat ison te outside fnce ofthe handwheel so thatthe tighter you turn the handwheel, the tighter the Toon ceats itself and Jules Fritts Enaton, Pennaylvania DUPLICATE CUTTINGS U've always had trouble eutting duplicate parts on the band saw until I came across {his easy solution. I sandwich a high qual- ‘ty double-faced tape between the dupli- cate parts being eut. The tape firmly holds the pieces together throughout the cutting process. It ean also be left in place while sanding the pieces to ensure exact duplicates. always keep the tape within the rat- tee to prevent it from being smeared into the edges as the parts are being sanded. ‘Before the pieces are finished, be sure to sand off any of the giue residue lefton the surface by the tape. Cart R. Mascia Greensburg, Pennsyliania NCH HOLD-DOWN, havea suggestion for wood- butchers like myself hat need a hold-dowa jg for large ‘ awkovard-sized boards. T purchase shoot of sandpaper that's sed for sataling hardwood lors and ghie ion th surace of my worktench. 1 tonally use a plece of SOgrit sandpaper thats wide wo lng, Thervugh aurface SO-grit sandpaper wil hold almost any workpiece tteady while dadoing oF planing. Thomes M. Olsen Plugervtte, Texas 90° BEVELS ON THE TABLE SAW Whenever I'm setting the saw blade at 90° ‘on the table saw, I've found that it’s more ‘accurate to use’the arbor flange rather than the saw blade as the reference point. First, [remove the saw blade from the arbor. Then I use a straight-odge held against the arbor flange, extending about —— | above the saw able ryt check te fetialsigmat emt Ceara Erarthe gia See et 90 show up when using the full length of the try-square for reference, ereesquant Richard Barron Jackson, Mivsissippi ‘THE ABRASIVE MITER In Woodsmith No. 21, the artiste on eut- ting miters mentioned that the wood tends to ereep as it’s being cut ‘What I do to overcome this is to glue a piece of medium sandpaper to the plywood fence on the miter gauge ot cut off jg. The sandpaper prips the piece being eut just enough to keep it from eing pulled into the bade Adjusting the position of the piece (egainst the sandpaper) takes little get- ting used to, bat otherwise, it works well. Dom Klett Portland, Oregon STARTING A DOVETAIL After reading about hand-cut dovetails in Woodsmith No. 19, 1 thought 1'd share a ‘ip that I use when starting a dovetail cut, TPve found that when 1 try to start a saw- cut, i's helpful to cut a small channel next to the scribed line. The channel keeps the Sav fom wandering uni ft can follow ie T use a small chisel to cut the channel, keeping all but the very edge on the waste de of the seribed line. Stan Spence Monrovia, California REPAIRING ROUND TENONS I'm in the furniture repair business, and have come across a little idea 1 like to pass on to your readers. ‘On chairs that have boon repaired re- telly, the round tenons have usually cleaned up so many times that they're smaller than thoy were originally. To build up their diameters again, T take a curled shaving from a hand plane and glue it ‘around the undersized tenon, Hold the shaving in place with masking | tape until the glue cures, then rasp the tenon down to a correct fit. ‘The shaving works well because it has & natural curl that wraps-around the round tenons. This works far better for me than trying to use a veneer for shirming, Robert G. Peterson Knorrille, Iinois Htyoutd Ike to share a woodworking tip with thor ‘eaders of Woodsmith, send your idea to: Woodemith, Tips & Techniquos, 1012 Grand ‘Ave., Des Noines, lowa 50908. ‘We pay amnmum of $10 or tps, and $15 or WoopsMiTH Turning A Goblet _—_» OR, TURNING TO DRINK a When we decided to do an article ont a few examples heliked. Prodietab problem. | rything 1 for some reason, Don ud, Te wanted toshow. Bi show how to tur only different require diff The two differen to the stem. Then the bow! is separate¢ ‘The bowl of the just slightly) fr “waist” the bowl. Then the bow! forms a gentl ‘curve that flows directly into the stem and Il the way to the base withou interruption Even with their dit lets are similar in the sense that they're tured from « fairly large block of wood. LAMINATING THE BLANK The first step enough to turn square, $"long to turn both goblets: cherry he ge the right, and Don's per sonal stock of koa (which about cost me m; ib) for the goblet on the left 3 laminated five Th cof wood large Tused blocks 4 epoxy are the two most common kinds) must be used. decided to use a tw Chem Tech T-88, because it hi jor advantages over penol flues. First, it will eure at te own tod(?, abig advantage ifyour shop is he basoment or the garage. Second, i doesnt require high clamping pressure as mest penol-resoreinol glues do. And third it leaves a elear glue line. (The glue line from pe K SOURCES. Chem Tech 7°88 is available from Chem Tech, 4569 Lander Road, Cha- | erin Falls, OH 44022. Ail orc T.88 | are chipped C.0.D., via United Parcel Service. T-88 costs $9.68 per pint TURNING SQUARES. There i | option. A solid turning square if you can get one big enough. Lange turn epoxy called J-resoreinol glues Is. usually 4 WoopsMiTH, ing squares (cither 3°<2" or 4°x1") can be ordered from: Constantine, 2050 East chester Road, Bronx, NY 16451. (MOUNTING THE BLANK Once you have the right size blank for the ob, the next step isto decide how to mount it to the faceplate. There seem to be as many different mounting methods as there are turners. But the thing to remember is that the sole ‘of any mounting sys- tem is to hold the blank securely in place. In Woodsmith No. 20, I glued the fruit bowl directly to a piece of plywood mounted to the faceplate, This system ‘worked fine because the long grain of the bow! blank was being glued to the plywood, The goblet blank is a different story. Because the end-grain of the goblet biank must be glued to the plywood, it just doesn't produce a strong enough joint. The best way I've found to secure a goblet blank to the faceplate is the method ‘mentioned in Dale Nish's book, Creotive Woodterning. This method calls for tum- ing a round tenon on the end of the goblet | blank. Then the tenon is glued into a hole that’s been drilled in a plywood dise, which inturn, is serewed toa faceplate, see A. ‘Tomount the goblets, { started by band. sawing a 5'-diameter dise from a piece of W plywood. Then I screwed the plywood dise to a'-diameter faceplate, and turned the ‘edge true with the lathe. After the dise is tured true, the next step is to drill a 1” hole, %° deep in the ‘enter ofthe plywood dise. A forstner bit is, really the best bit to use to drill this hole, ‘but if you're like me, these bits are just too, ‘expensive for as seldom as they're used. Instead of the forstner bit, Ijust used a Y spade bit, with the center point ground down to about TURNING THE TENON. Next, the blank is mounted between centers, and turnedtrue tsing the 3" gouge. Then Luse a parting tool to cut a round tenon that fits snugly in ‘the hole ofthe plywood dise. The length of thistenon should be about Vc" shorter than ‘the depth of the lnla to envure that the: boctot ofthe Luring bank its det on the plywood dis MUA oe oth ts tien auto bottom ofthe Bank, and mount i to the plrwond ise, Then {use the tall tock of Dea deere pie Daring the campo press, the Hank stay i sg uo tue So ater letting it dry overnight, I turn the blank true vith te lathe tes again, NOLLOWiNG OUT THE GOBLET ROW. Nov i's time to start. the Inside of the goblet bowl. I think it’s best to turn the Ee crac bendetec rug hoon side profile, for a couple of reasons, First, the process of hollowing out the inside of the bowl isn't what I consider a gentle procedure. If the outside profile of the bowl were turned first, there just wouldn't be enough “meat” on the bow! to withstand the vibration caused by hollow= ing out the inside. ‘Second, it's a lot easier to turn the thin walls on the goblet’s bowl by using the gentle cutting action of a skew (on the outside of the bow), rather than trying to luce a seraper on the inside of the bowl. start this process of hollowing out the inside of the bow! by drilling a hole as close to the finish diameter as possible. Un- fortunately, the cost of a bit anywhere near the diameter of these goblets costs about as much as the lathe itself. So rather than going broke, [just use aninexpensive 1" spade bit. (My wife calls this being cheap; 1 Just tell her Its the result of « thorough cost-effective analysis.) DRILLING THE HOLE. Before driling the hole, wrap a piece of masking tape on the bit fo mark the depth of eut — about 4 shorter than the inside depth of the bow, Note: Be sure to include the length of the center point of the bit. After the depth of cut is marked, insert the bit (and a chuck) in the tail stock of the lathe, see Fig. 1. Then turn onthe lathe (at the slowest speed), and use the tail stock crank wheel to advance the bit into the ‘oblet blank. Periodically clean out the shavings to help keep the bit cool. ENLARGING THE HOLE. To enlarge this initial hole, some turmers like to use a parting tool or a round-nose seraper. T've found that it's both faster and cleaner to lise a square-nosed scraper. The problem With this method is that most standard turning sets don't indlude a square-nose seraper. But they dohave a diamond point seraper (which [rarely use anyway), £0 1 regrind it to a square-nose profile. Before I hegin to enlarge the hele, 1 mark the diameter ofthe finished goblet on the end of the blank. This keeps me from zoing too far during all of the excitement. ‘Then 1 position the tool rest at dead center, and use the square-nose chisel to ‘make very light cuts into the side of the hhole — penetrating only about *" deep ‘with each cut, see Fig. 2. (The width of each cut is actually determined by the ‘amount of vibration that's created.) There will be some vibration no matter how light the euts are, but it shouldn't be exeossive. Leontinue to make 4" euta, from the hole outward, until the width of the en- larged hole is within "of the finished size of the goblet. Then I start at the center again, and deepen the hole with another series of deep cuts, For the straight sided bowl, I stair-step ‘each new row af ¥£"

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