NO. 23 NOTES FROM THE SHOP $2.50
“Woodsmith
LATHE TURNING: STEP-BY-STEP TO TURNING GOBLETS
BENCH PLANES: HOW TO USE THEM TO PLANE A TABLE TOP
MICROWAVE CART: A VERSATILE SERVING CARTWoodsmith.
Sawdust
Number 23 ‘September, 1962
Edtor
Donald B. Peschie
Design Drector
‘Ted Kralicek
‘An Director
‘Jon Snyder
‘Ascisiant Editor
‘Steve Krohmer
Graphic Designers
David Kreyling
Marcia Simmons
Subscrition Manager
‘Sandy J. Baum
‘Subscription Assistants
‘Chvistel Miner
Vieky Robinson
‘Kim Malton
ackie Stroud
‘Shirley Renz
‘Computer Operations
‘Kon Miner
Adminitrative Assetant
Chery! Scot
ISSN: o16t-4114
Copyright
Company. Al Rights Reserved.
‘Subscriptions: Ono year (6 issues) $10, Two
years (12 issues) $18, Single copy price, $250,
(Canada and Foreign: ad $2 per year)
‘Change OF Address: Please be sure to include
ath your old and new address for change of
‘acdess. Nal to: Woodsmith, 1812 Grand Ave.
Des Moines, lowa 50300,
ecard Cat pong pat De tag:
Postmaster: Sond change of address notice,
‘Form 9579, t Woodsmitn Publishing Co., 1812
Grand Ave., Des Moines, lowa 50308.
BACK ISSUES
Als of the contents ofall back issues appears
‘on the wrapper of this issue. Ifthe wrapper is
‘missing, ou can sand fora bookie! cesciting
‘the conterts and pices of all back issues.
‘SAMPLE COPIES:
Ifyou have aftiond who would ike to se 2copy
of Woodsmith, just send the name and acess,
and we'l send a sample (at ro cos!)
ASOUT TiS ISSUE. Whenever we get
visitors here at Woodsmith, ane question
that always seems to come ups, “How do
you decide what projects to buld for each
‘What we usually dois try to decide on a
technique before we ever get to the
projects. For this issue, we thought it was
time todo an article on using bench planes.
‘That naturally led to using 2 plane to
smooth a table top. Which inturn led to the
‘Trestle Table.
At least that’s the story 1d like to tel,
What really happened is that everybody
kept teasing me about the original design
ofthe Trestle Table shown in the first issue
‘of Woodsmith. Pi admit that first table is
notte greatest design in the world. And it
has some construction faults (whichis why
‘wo're no longer offering Tesuie No. 1 with
the other Back Issues).
‘But {finally got tired ofall this harass-
ment and said okay, if Ted can design a
new one, we'll build it and use tas a inch
table here at work,
‘Now the pressure was on. Fist, we had
to design a table to meet the approval af
exeryone in this crazy bunch, (Ted said,
“No problom.”) And ifwe were going ost
at this table for lunch everyday, it also
meant that the top had to be flawless. L
couldn't ve with another fear years of
harassment.)
Needless to say, I spent a litte extra
time getting the planes adjusted and
sharpened. It paid off. The tabletop is Mat
fand smooth, And it was all done by hand.
Now everytime I walk by this table and
runmy fingersacross it, Tfeelentitied toa
little grin of accomplishment.
Yet, | didn't always fel this way sbout
using hand planes. In fact, my initial reac-
tionto ahand plane was, “How inthe world
ddo-you get this thing to work?”
My first plane was an inexpensive
(cheap) smocth plane, « Christmas gif,
given to me (I was sare) to test my pz.
ence and drive me up the wall.
‘Ofcourse, when I frst took it out ofthe
box, was delighted. There were instant
Visions of an old-time woodworking shop
«. « paper-thin shavings seattered over
ite ocr; hand-planing exotie hardwoods
to reveal beautfal grain; and the peaceful
solitude of woodworking done the old-
fahioned way
‘But.as soon as tried to use it, my dream
was shattered. I quickly came to realize
that s plane is just an expensive piece of
iron that doesa’t work. The dumb thing
hops and chatters all over the wood, it
tears out scetions that have to be sanded
smooth later i's impossible to adjust, and
it ruins good wood. In general, it causes
more frustration than its worth.
It took some time, but I eventually
learned how toconguer this tool. Now, one
‘of my favorite pastimes isto head hack to
the shop and fill the floor ‘with all those
paper-thin shavings I firs. dreamed of.
‘There are times, of coarse, when I'mnot
‘off on one of these romantic ings. There's
work to be done — like smooth the top of
‘Trestle Table. Then that once-dreaded
hand plane becomes an invaluable tool
‘What kind of plane would you recom-
mend for someone just starting out?
I think the best plane isthe onethat gets
the most use. In oar shop that means a
Record “05" jack plane with 1 corrugated
‘bottom. This one plane has smoothed al-
most every table top, cabinet side and
panel shown in Woedsmith. (This plane is
available through several catalogs, but the
‘one with the best price ($49) is Garre:t
Wade, catalog $8, 161 Avenue of the
Americas, New York, NY 10013.)
Although the Record jack plane is areal
‘workhorse, one of my favorite planes to
work with is a Primus Reform-Type
smooth plane, This is a wooden-bodied
plane that feeis good in your hands, and
has one of the best depth-adjusting
systems of any plane made. (It's also avai
able from Garrett Wade for $99.)
NEW FACES. Lately it seems when T'm
‘not baek in the shop working with planes,
Tm trying to lower the unemployment
rate. Shirley Renz has signed on to heip
eater new subscriptions and back issue
Since Shirley is the “new kid on the
block,” everyone here agrees that if there
are any whatsoever with any
‘order, it must be Shirley's fault. ust kid-
ding, she's doing a terific ob.)
ITSA HOY. As of 5:30 AM on the day I'm
writing this, Steve (our assistant editor)
and his wife Janet have just added a new
face of their own: Baby Boy (no rame yet)
Krohmer, 7 Is. 1 oz, Congratulations.
Steve turned the two goblets shown in
this issue the ealls them Wooderford
‘crystal It won't belong before both Steve
and Ted start dreaming up all sorts ofplans
and projects for children's furnitare. (Ted
and Mindy’s baby girl, Katie, just took her
first steps today. She'll be one year young
‘on Thanksgiving day.)
‘THE SCHEDULE. We are still trying toget
‘back on our intended schedule for maiinse
issues of Woodemith. We're makin
progress, but the next issue (Number 24)
Will stil bea litte late. We hope to have it
in the mail during the first week in
December.
2
WoopsMITHTips & Techniques
‘OUCHLESS KNOBS
In your article on comparing router do-
veiail fixtures (Woodemith No.22), you
‘mentioned that the knobs on the Sears
fixture gave you sore fingers. | eliminated
that problem on my Sears dovetail fixture
slong ime ago, AIT did was oreplace the
bir pereg euarpeer erg
rat, [ use a holesaw to drill « 2°
diameter (realy any size wll work) “plug”
tat of a pee of #4 poplar. Although this
roices a perfect crete, the outside edge
58 too rough to be used sa handwheel
To smooth the oatsbe diameter ofthe
“phag’ [insert a 20 bolt through the
‘hole left by the holesaw, andattach a nut
to secure it on the bolt. Then T chuck the
“pug” in a dnll press (a lthe oF oven an
clectrc dl wil lso work), aed round the
edges so that they're smooth.
Finally, enlarge the holo to
insert 1'V¢ inside diameter tee-aut
Simply hesure the tee-nat ison te outside
fnce ofthe handwheel so thatthe tighter
you turn the handwheel, the tighter the
Toon ceats itself
and
Jules Fritts
Enaton, Pennaylvania
DUPLICATE CUTTINGS
U've always had trouble eutting duplicate
parts on the band saw until I came across
{his easy solution. I sandwich a high qual-
‘ty double-faced tape between the dupli-
cate parts being eut. The tape firmly holds
the pieces together throughout the cutting
process. It ean also be left in place while
sanding the pieces to ensure exact
duplicates.
always keep the tape within the rat-
tee to prevent it from being smeared into
the edges as the parts are being sanded.
‘Before the pieces are finished, be sure to
sand off any of the giue residue lefton the
surface by the tape.
Cart R. Mascia
Greensburg, Pennsyliania
NCH HOLD-DOWN,
havea suggestion for wood- butchers like
myself hat need a hold-dowa jg for large
‘ awkovard-sized boards.
T purchase shoot of sandpaper that's
sed for sataling hardwood lors and ghie
ion th surace of my worktench. 1
tonally use a plece of SOgrit sandpaper
thats wide wo lng, Thervugh aurface
SO-grit sandpaper wil hold almost any
workpiece tteady while dadoing oF
planing.
Thomes M. Olsen
Plugervtte, Texas
90° BEVELS ON THE TABLE SAW
Whenever I'm setting the saw blade at 90°
‘on the table saw, I've found that it’s more
‘accurate to use’the arbor flange rather
than the saw blade as the reference point.
First, [remove the saw blade from the
arbor. Then I use a straight-odge held
against the arbor flange, extending about
——
|
above the saw able ryt check te
fetialsigmat emt Ceara
Erarthe gia See et 90
show up when using the full length of the
try-square for reference,
ereesquant
Richard Barron
Jackson, Mivsissippi
‘THE ABRASIVE MITER
In Woodsmith No. 21, the artiste on eut-
ting miters mentioned that the wood tends
to ereep as it’s being cut
‘What I do to overcome this is to glue a
piece of medium sandpaper to the plywood
fence on the miter gauge ot cut off jg. The
sandpaper prips the piece being eut just
enough to keep it from eing pulled into
the bade
Adjusting the position of the piece
(egainst the sandpaper) takes little get-
ting used to, bat otherwise, it works well.
Dom Klett
Portland, Oregon
STARTING A DOVETAIL
After reading about hand-cut dovetails in
Woodsmith No. 19, 1 thought 1'd share a
‘ip that I use when starting a dovetail cut,
TPve found that when 1 try to start a saw-
cut, i's helpful to cut a small channel next
to the scribed line. The channel keeps the
Sav fom wandering uni ft can follow ie
T use a small chisel to cut the channel,
keeping all but the very edge on the waste
de of the seribed line.
Stan Spence
Monrovia, California
REPAIRING ROUND TENONS
I'm in the furniture repair business, and
have come across a little idea 1 like to
pass on to your readers.
‘On chairs that have boon repaired re-
telly, the round tenons have usually
cleaned up so many times that they're
smaller than thoy were originally. To build
up their diameters again, T take a curled
shaving from a hand plane and glue it
‘around the undersized tenon,
Hold the shaving in place with masking |
tape until the glue cures, then rasp the
tenon down to a correct fit.
‘The shaving works well because it has &
natural curl that wraps-around the round
tenons. This works far better for me than
trying to use a veneer for shirming,
Robert G. Peterson
Knorrille, Iinois
Htyoutd Ike to share a woodworking tip with thor
‘eaders of Woodsmith, send your idea to:
Woodemith, Tips & Techniquos, 1012 Grand
‘Ave., Des Noines, lowa 50908.
‘We pay amnmum of $10 or tps, and $15 or
WoopsMiTHTurning A Goblet _—_»
OR, TURNING TO DRINK a
When we decided to do an article ont
a few examples
heliked. Prodietab
problem. |
rything 1
for some reason, Don
ud, Te
wanted toshow. Bi
show how to tur
only different
require diff
The two
differen
to the stem. Then the bow! is separate¢
‘The bowl of the
just slightly) fr “waist”
the bowl. Then the bow! forms a gentl
‘curve that flows directly into the stem and
Il the way to the base withou
interruption
Even with their dit
lets are similar in the sense that they're
tured from « fairly large block of wood.
LAMINATING THE BLANK
The first step
enough to turn
square, $"long to turn both goblets: cherry
he ge the right, and Don's per
sonal stock of koa (which about cost me m;
ib) for the goblet on the left
3 laminated five
Th
cof wood large
Tused blocks 4
epoxy are the two most common kinds)
must be used.
decided to use a tw
Chem Tech T-88, because it hi
jor advantages over penol
flues. First, it will eure at te
own tod(?, abig advantage ifyour shop is
he basoment or the garage. Second, i
doesnt require high clamping pressure as
mest penol-resoreinol glues do. And third
it leaves a elear glue line. (The glue line
from pe
K
SOURCES. Chem Tech 7°88 is available
from Chem Tech, 4569 Lander Road, Cha-
| erin Falls, OH 44022. Ail orc T.88
| are chipped C.0.D., via United Parcel
Service. T-88 costs $9.68 per pint
TURNING SQUARES. There i
| option. A solid turning square
if you can get one big enough. Lange turn
epoxy called
J-resoreinol glues Is. usually
4 WoopsMiTH,ing squares (cither 3°<2" or 4°x1") can be
ordered from: Constantine, 2050 East
chester Road, Bronx, NY 16451.
(MOUNTING THE BLANK
Once you have the right size blank for the
ob, the next step isto decide how to mount
it to the faceplate. There seem to be as
many different mounting methods as there
are turners. But the thing to remember is
that the sole ‘of any mounting sys-
tem is to hold the blank securely in place.
In Woodsmith No. 20, I glued the fruit
bowl directly to a piece of plywood
mounted to the faceplate, This system
‘worked fine because the long grain of the
bow! blank was being glued to the
plywood,
The goblet blank is a different story.
Because the end-grain of the goblet biank
must be glued to the plywood, it just
doesn't produce a strong enough joint.
The best way I've found to secure a
goblet blank to the faceplate is the method
‘mentioned in Dale Nish's book, Creotive
Woodterning. This method calls for tum-
ing a round tenon on the end of the goblet
| blank. Then the tenon is glued into a
hole that’s been drilled in a plywood dise,
which inturn, is serewed toa faceplate, see
A.
‘Tomount the goblets, { started by band.
sawing a 5'-diameter dise from a piece of
W plywood. Then I screwed the plywood
dise to a'-diameter faceplate, and turned
the ‘edge true with the lathe.
After the dise is tured true, the next
step is to drill a 1” hole, %° deep in the
‘enter ofthe plywood dise. A forstner bit is,
really the best bit to use to drill this hole,
‘but if you're like me, these bits are just too,
‘expensive for as seldom as they're used.
Instead of the forstner bit, Ijust used a Y
spade bit, with the center point ground
down to about
TURNING THE TENON. Next, the blank is
mounted between centers, and turnedtrue
tsing the 3" gouge. Then Luse a parting
tool to cut a round tenon that fits snugly in
‘the hole ofthe plywood dise. The length of
thistenon should be about Vc" shorter than
‘the depth of the lnla to envure that the:
boctot ofthe Luring bank its det on
the plywood dis
MUA oe oth ts tien auto
bottom ofthe Bank, and mount i to the
plrwond ise, Then {use the tall tock of
Dea deere pie
Daring the campo press, the Hank
stay i sg uo tue So ater
letting it dry overnight, I turn the blank
true vith te lathe tes again,
NOLLOWiNG OUT THE GOBLET ROW.
Nov i's time to start. the Inside of the
goblet bowl. I think it’s best to turn the
Ee crac bendetec rug hoon
side profile, for a couple of reasons,
First, the process of hollowing out the
inside of the bowl isn't what I consider a
gentle procedure. If the outside profile of
the bowl were turned first, there just
wouldn't be enough “meat” on the bow! to
withstand the vibration caused by hollow=
ing out the inside.
‘Second, it's a lot easier to turn the thin
walls on the goblet’s bowl by using the
gentle cutting action of a skew (on the
outside of the bow), rather than trying to
luce a seraper on the inside of the bowl.
start this process of hollowing out the
inside of the bow! by drilling a hole as close
to the finish diameter as possible. Un-
fortunately, the cost of a bit anywhere
near the diameter of these goblets costs
about as much as the lathe itself. So rather
than going broke, [just use aninexpensive
1" spade bit. (My wife calls this being
cheap; 1 Just tell her Its the result of «
thorough cost-effective analysis.)
DRILLING THE HOLE. Before driling the
hole, wrap a piece of masking tape on the
bit fo mark the depth of eut — about 4
shorter than the inside depth of the bow,
Note: Be sure to include the length of the
center point of the bit.
After the depth of cut is marked, insert
the bit (and a chuck) in the tail stock of the
lathe, see Fig. 1. Then turn onthe lathe (at
the slowest speed), and use the tail stock
crank wheel to advance the bit into the
‘oblet blank. Periodically clean out the
shavings to help keep the bit cool.
ENLARGING THE HOLE. To enlarge this
initial hole, some turmers like to use a
parting tool or a round-nose seraper. T've
found that it's both faster and cleaner to
lise a square-nosed scraper. The problem
With this method is that most standard
turning sets don't indlude a square-nose
seraper. But they dohave a diamond point
seraper (which [rarely use anyway), £0 1
regrind it to a square-nose profile.
Before I hegin to enlarge the hele, 1
mark the diameter ofthe finished goblet on
the end of the blank. This keeps me from
zoing too far during all of the excitement.
‘Then 1 position the tool rest at dead
center, and use the square-nose chisel to
‘make very light cuts into the side of the
hhole — penetrating only about *" deep
‘with each cut, see Fig. 2. (The width of
each cut is actually determined by the
‘amount of vibration that's created.) There
will be some vibration no matter how light
the euts are, but it shouldn't be exeossive.
Leontinue to make 4" euta, from the
hole outward, until the width of the en-
larged hole is within "of the finished size
of the goblet. Then I start at the center
again, and deepen the hole with another
series of deep cuts,
For the straight sided bowl, I stair-step
‘each new row af ¥£"