NO. 31 NOTES FROM THE SHOP $2.50 “Woodsmith ‘ PROJECTS: © ADJUSTABLE DESK @ ROLL-AROUND CADDY @ TWO-TRAY IN/OUT BOX am A BUYER'S GUIDE: WHICH ROUTER IS BEST?Woodsmith. Sawdust Number 31 JanFeb, 1984 Ezltor Donald B. Peschke: Design Cirector Ted Kralicok Assistant Editors Steve Krohmer Michael P. Scott ‘Assistant At Director Kay Mulder Technical llusretors David Kroyling Mike Henry ‘Subscription Manager ‘Sandy J. Baum ‘Subseroton Assistants ‘Christel Miner Vicky Robinson ‘Jackle Stroud) Shirley Feltman ‘Ann Witiams: (Computer Operations: Ken Miner Circulation Manoger ott Farris ‘Adninisative Assistant Chery! Scott Buiiding Maintenance ‘Arebie Krauss WOODSMITH (ISSN 0164-4114) is published bimonthy (January, Maren, May, July, Sep- tember, November) by Woodsmith Puoishing Go, 2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, lowa50312, WOODSMITH is a egistorec trademark of tho Woodsmith Publishing Co. “Copyright 1984 by Woadsmith Publishing Co All Rights Reserved ‘Subscriptions: Ore year (6 issues) $10, Two Joes 2s) $8 Srele toy: $250 {Gasada ord foray: aa 82 por Change Of Aderess Pace ese oncude both your old and new address and a mailing label from a recentissue, Second sless postage paid ai Des Nolo, Postmaster: Send charge of adcress notice, Form 3579, to Woodsmiti Publshirg Co,, 200, Grand Ave., Des Moines, lowa 50312. BACK ISSUES Ast ofthe contenis of al back issues eppears: ‘onthe wrapper of this issue. It the wrapper is. missing. you can send fora booklet describing the contents end pices of allback issues. SANPLE COPIES Hou have a tend who would ike see's copy. of Woodsmith, justsend the rame and adoress, ‘and welll send a sample (at ro cos! ABOUP THIS ISSUB. Two of the projects in this issue were kind of exciting to build. Not because of the projects themselves, but because of the joinery technique used to build thom. ‘The joint we used is a dovetail tmgue and groove — but not your typieal dovetail tongue and groove. ‘The adjustable desk (shown on page 4) uses a sliding version of this joint in the legs. What fascinates me about thls appll- cation is that the logs (and the joint) have to be sturdy enough to support the desk top, yet the joint also has to be flexible tenouigh te slide up and down to change the height of the desk top. ‘We used another version of the dovetail tongue and groove on the in/out box (shown on page 12). This time a dovetail key took the place of the dovetail tongue. And onee again, it had to serve two pur- poses. The key was, in part, a decorative banding strip, but italso served as. corner. Joint to hold the trays together. Iesnotoften a joint has tobe so versatile — but it was fan to “put it through paces" for the projects in this issue. INDEX. You may notice tat this issue is a little thicker than usual. That's because we've included a special four-page index to all the articles, projects, and information shovin inthe first 30 issues of Woodsnith. Thope it makes finding information in the back issues alittle easier. ENVELOPE, We've also inserted an en- velope in this issue. Feel free to use it to ronew your subscription, order a gift sub- scription fora friend, or order back issues. ‘But the mest important reason for cluding this enveloye isto provide an easy ‘way 10 let us know of any problems you may have with your subscription Ifyou havent received an sue, or fits torn or damaged, or if your name is mis- spelled on the label, orf you've changed sour address ...ifthero's any problem at all, please let us know. We want to provide the best service we can. If there's a prob- Jem, just let us know and we'll fix NEW Faces. Ann Williams has just Joined the Woedsmith group to help with all ofthe problems 1just mentioned. Ifyou happen to call as, Ann’s voice is probably the first one you'll hear. PUBLISHERSSTATEMENT. Every yeer in the January/February issue of Woodenith we're required by the Post Office to print the Publisher's Statement. shown below. Last year this statement showed our ealation at about 74,000. This year we've a bit — to over 151,000. “Although numbers are nice, Talways try to keep in mind what they really mean When I'm working on a project or article for Wordsmith, 1 ike to think that I'm working for 150,000 friends who enjoy woodworking, That's the only way [ean make any sense out of the numbers that seem to grow s0 fast. NEXT MAILING, Along with the growth, we've also experienced some growing pains, Weare doing our best to et back on amore timely schedule for mailing out the ues. The next issue (Woodsmith No. 82) willbe in the mail during the week of April 10th, (Since it's mailed second lass post= age, please allow two weeks for delivery.) ‘Again, thank you for your patience. STATEMENT OF OWNERSIIP, MANAGEMENT AND CIRCULATION ‘eid Wy 39 USC 3 |. TiestPaaton Wondmihn.Penin Ns ‘Boo cect ou Desens ai owe ‘tis pen Gra Avene, Dehn, owas 8 Comite slr yar eer ont acai ee fies Df Pash 299 Grant Avene, Des ifaiaedocae 4 Tee cil te TESS hh des ce, et in Buotneptms ela ih i ‘top mpean a her Pe ie {Ofer te, nictad, pl er rng 6, Taal Sen oe Fan er orgs 2h Aap. cgie “een let = taste a 2 WoopsMITHTips & Techniques CUTTING RADIAL ARM DENTIL After reading how to cut dentil (using the table saw) for the Curio Cabinet in Wood- smith No, 2, I lecided t0 come up with a method that would also work on my radial arm saw. Using my method, the frst step is to attach a fence to the saw that's slightly hicher than the thickness of the dent itself, Thenmakea stallow cut through the fence with adado blade set to cut a 4” kerf. Finally, marka point on the fence ¥ tothe REVISED ROUTER TABLE I changed the material used for the top, surface of your router table—it may be af soine help to your readers. [used 94 eabi- net grade 7-ply exterior piywood that has two extremely thin layers of plastic ad- hered on both faces, ‘This material is commonly known as MDO (Medium Density Overlay). Using this material saved me the time and trouble of bonding # separate piece of Masonite to the surface. And since the color of the surfaco is fairly light, penciled stop lines really stand out. Bob Francis Mineola, Texos GLUING DEEP CABINETS As I was building the Tambour Stereo Cabinet in Woodsmith No. 17, everything. was going according: to plan until I dry clamped the case together to spot any problems (before it’s to0 late). careful Tam, the height is never quit right 1 think 've finally come up with the answer to my problem. I designed a qui and easy jig that uses a sliding dovet Joint. To use the jig, the floating block is Positioned on top of the blade (or bit) so it tan ride up and down the base as the depth of cutis adjusted. ‘The key to this system is to be sure that the block's free floating, soit willadjust to eventhe slightest change inthe position of the blade, TaRDERE TORT Jonas nuts left of the dado, and additional marks n'a" inerements for 4 or 5 inches along the length of the fence After adjusting the depth of cat on a serap pioeo, make the first cut on tho work. piece. Then line up the right shoulder of the dado with the first line, and make the lining up the right shoulder of each dado ‘with the penciled marks on the fence as shown, Because “lining up” the cuts with the marks is an eye-ball procedure, it ‘works best if you line up as many lines as possible for each cut. ‘Steve Crampton Wheat Ridge, Colorado DISC SANDERS FOR SHARPENING TOOLS. Tire been reading the Woodsmith back facies, and came across your article on sharpening in Woodsmit No. 20. But 1 ‘vas dsappuinted because the article didn't mention my favorite method of sharp- ening: using a vertical 8 dise sander free- hhand (with no tool rest ‘One thing that makes this metheal work sowellis that you can sight down the face of the plate to assure that the bevel is in constant contac: with the dise. And I've been partieilarly pleased with the resits achieved when using this method for Sharpening lathe tools, Eédward Rosenfeld Gurley, Alabama As in the past, [found that simply pos tioring clamps onthe front and back edges of the cabinet sides won't pull the center of the cabinet sides tight aainst the shelf (or web frame). This seems to be a problem every time I use plywood for cabinet construction. ‘The best method I've found to keep the center of the panel snug against the shelves sto use a clamping board that has a eanvex edge. By positioning the convex face ayeinst the side of the cabinet (i- rectly acrossfrom the shelf), and clamping nly the ends of the board, constant pres- sure can be applied against the center of the eabinet side, Chris Stuart Manteca, California DOVETAIL GAUGE T'vealways had a hard time trying to usea ruler to set the height of a blade on the table saw, ov the height of a bit on the router table, It seems that no matter how ‘Tomake the jig slide easily, Tused the Boseh dovetail gue joint bit ee Sour- es.on page 24). This hit is alittle different than a normal dovetal bit — it produces tquared off comers on the dovetal. This squared corner Keeps the two halves from catching as they slide backend forth. And with the addition of good ecat ofwax, the sliding block will uly "oat" ‘Tokeep the sharp edges on the top edge of he earbide-tipped rauter bits from eut- ing nto the siding block, I glued a small piece of plastic laminate (Kormica) to the bottom face of the block. ‘Tocalibrate the ig, Irabketed the edge of the base and attached brass scale off an oid Wooden folding rule. I also posi- tional therule 1" ahovethe hottom edge of the hase to make it easier to read. Then mark a pointer onthe siding block xo that it corresponds with the exact height set- tings on the brass seal. Kenneth Gyldencand Des Moines, lowa ‘SEND IN YOUR IDEAS {fyoudliketo share awoodworking tipwithother feaders ol Woodsmitn, senc your idea to: Woodsmith, Tips & Techniques, 2200 Grand ‘Aye., Des Moines, lowa 59312. We pay a minimum of $10 fortips, and $15 or imore for special techniques that are accepted ‘orpublicaton), Please give a complete exslana~ son ol your ides. Ifa sketch is needed, send it long: wall draw a new one. WoopsMiTHAdjustable Desk A DESK FOR ALL SIZES ‘Most of the time when weset out to build a piece of furniture, we try to build it to a Standard size, Tables and desks, for exam- ple, are supposed to be 29° high. But the problem with standard-size furniture is that peopledon’t come in standard sizes — especially kids We wanted to build a desk that would ‘grow’ as the person grew. The solution was to make the height of the desk adjust able. To do this, we decided touse a sliding dovetail joint on the dosk’s leg assembly (shown in the detail photo, below left. ‘This way the whole deslcop in be naised to-suit the person using it. While we were atit, we also desided to make the desk top adjustable. That is, provide a way so the top could be tilted up for coloring (or drafting woodworking plans), but also so it could be laid fat for doing, homework (or paying bills). ‘To accomplish this requirement, of the desk is hinged on a “rachet” frame that ean be raised in increments (shown in the detail photo, below right) Te became quite a design challenge toget thase two ajustablofeatares to work, and | not interfere with each other. But onee the design was worked out, the fun of building the desk could begin, T started with the desk top assembly. This consists of a web frame that supports the solid cak end caps, the tilting desk top, and the drawers. ‘THE WEB FRAME ‘The key to this whole desk top assembly is the center web frame. All the other parts are attached toit. [built the web frame by cutting twolongrails(A) and four stiles(B) tosize, see Fig. 1. First, eut the rails toa length of 48" and the stiles to a length of 174’. Then rip all si of these pieces to a ‘commen width of 24/ JOINERY, These six pieces are joined with stub tenons and grooves, see Detail in Fig. 1. To make these joints, cut a'"-wide by ie"eep groove centered on the inside | edge ofeach plece. Then eut stub tenonson | the ends ofthe four stilesto itthe grooves. (For more information on thistype of join ery, see Woodsmith No. 29.) PANELS, Next, 4° Masonite panels are added to the outside two openings in the ‘wb frame. (These outside pane’s cover the areas above the drawers, The middle ‘opening does not have a panel because it hss to ho open to allow space for the "ra- chet” frame used to tilt the desk top up.) To get the measurements for the two frame sothe two from the outside he top | (This should leave an 18” opening between the two inside stiles.) ‘Then eut 4 Masonite panels to fit the {roove-to-groove measurements in the frame, ‘After these panels are cut, glue and clamp the frame together (gluing the pan- | elsin the frame openings). END CAPS AND APRONS ‘The basie desk top is formed by adding solid oak eaps tothe ends ofthe web frame, | and aprons alongthe front and back edges, | refer to Fig. END CAPS. The two end capa (I) are eat from 5/4 stock (1¥thi long and 5%" wide. Then two ¥"-wide groaves are routed on the inside face of these caps so they ean be joined to the web frame. ROUT GROOVES. To rout the first groove, clamp ona fence toguide therouter tocuta ‘groave 1%’ from the top edge of the cap, See Fig. 3. (Note: This groove is positioned to allow for the thickness ofthe web frame plusthe thicknessof the desk top, which is added later.) Mark the start and stop points for this groove 114" from the front and back edges ff the cap. (The distance between these WOoDSMITH‘avo marks should equal the width of the web frame, plus ¥.) hen plunge the routerin atthe start point and rout to the stop mark. ‘The second groove on the end eapsstarts at the bottom edge ofthe eap and stops in the horizontal groove. However, toensure the grooves on both ap are neatly the same positcn, I damped the caps together (bottom edge to bottom edge) and routed ‘one gronve-zernss both pieces. Again, ns a fence to guile the router, see Fig. 3. FRONT AND BACK APRONS After the grooves are routed on the end ‘aps, the front and back aprons (Cand D) are cut to size. The width of the back apron is 4", and the with of the front apron is ‘1. Both aprons are cut to length to equal the length of the web frame. OUT GIOOVES. Toattach the aprons to the web frame, a 4’-wide groove isrouted fn the inside face of each apron. ‘This rvove is positioned so the distance to the ‘oitom edge of the groove is equal to the thickness ofthe web frame. see Fig. 5. (If the groove is in this position, the top of the web frame will be flush with the top edge of the apron when these pieces are assembled.) ROUT TONGUES Afier the grooves are cut in the end caps, land the aprons, rabbets are eut on all four edges of the web frame. These rabbets actually produce tongues to fit the grooves in the eaps and aprons, see Fig. 6. Lused a router (hand-held) with arabbetingbit and pilot to rout these rabbets, It’s best to sneak up on the depth of ent of the rabbets. With each successively eeper pass, check the fit of the tonguesin the grooves. They should fit snugly. ‘TONGUES ON APRON. Next, set up. the router table to rout rabbets onthe onds of the back apron (D). Again, therabbets are cut to form tonguee to fit the vertical the ends cap, se Fig. 6. 1 Longues are eat, they have to betrimmed to fit the height ofthe vertical sroove. Simply tim off the top section of the tongue above the groove, see Steps 2 and 3 in Fig. 6. INT APRON TO LENGTH. The front apron (C) does not have tongues on. the ends, Instead, it's trimmed to final length to match the shouldero-stoulder length of the web frame, refer to Fig. 4. ASSEMBLY When all the tongues fit the grooves, ‘round the four ccrers of the end caps to & 54" radius. (I did this ona disk sander.) ‘Then round over the outside edges of the end caps with a 4" rounding-over bit. assiust. Floally, the end eaps and ‘aprons can be giued and clamped to the ‘ediges of the web frame. foun ces ee eee + nouns over a eoots| TN SF eNDS wT Ye CORNER ROUND [RoOIEs WoopsmirH‘THE TRESTLE LEG ASSEMBLY ‘The desk top is mounted to a trestle leg fascembly which can bo adjusted in height by means ofa sliding dovetai UPRIGHT AND BASE, To build the legs, I started withthe uprights (K) ard the bases (Ly, See Fig. 7. Cut the uprights to Sze and locate the position for the dowel holes. (Later, pegs are inserted in these holes as stops to hold the desk at the height you want.) Drill the 14” dowel holes 94 deep, spacing them 14 apart, 2s shown in Fig, 7, [It’s best to use a Forstner bit to drill les.) jin the upright to the base, the base, see Detailin Fig 8, and then eut-amatchingtenon on the end ‘of the upright. DOVETAIL GROOVE. Belore joining the ‘upright and base together, a wide dovetail ‘groove is routed on the inside face of the Upright. (This groove will hold the sliding doretail key.) J routed this groove on the router table, starting with a 3” straight bit to clear out most ofthe waste, sec Fig. 9. Set the fence ontherouter table tocut.a groove centered on the width of the upright. The bottom (depth) ofthis groove shoald be flush with the face of the tenon. Move the fence and make passes on both sides of the center groove, until i's 2" wide, Then switch to a 12" dovetail bit to rout the half-dovetail profile onthe outside edges so the final width (fram point to point) is 3. KOUND EDGES. After the dovetail groove is routed, glue and clamp the upright and base toxether. Then cut a %” radius on all ers, and round over the eges with a W rounding-over bit, see Fig. 10. DOVETAIL KEY. Next, a large sliding dovetail key (F) is eat to fit the covet groove in the upright. Cut this key wiler than the widest dimersion of the gmvove, Then rout the half-dovetail profile ‘on both edges of the key, sneaking up on. these eate tntil the key sides smoothly in the groove, see Fig. 11. ‘The top end of this key ie attached to the end caps on the desktop assembly. To do this, eat a halflap to the depth of the dovetallat the top ofthe key. After't’scat, the shoulder of the half lap should rest firmly on the bottom edge of the end esp, and the top end should butt against the bottom of the web frame, refer to Figs, 12 and 13, DRAWER RUNNERS Before attaching thelleg assemblies to the desk top, the drawer rumers (G) have to bbeeut. These runners serve to p they support and guide the drawers, and the two outside runners also support the dovetail key. This was the biggest design problem we WoopsMITHdesk. The lange dovetail keys that ride in the uprights) had to support the entire desk top assembly. Since the ‘weight ofthe desk top is not centered on the legs, there is bound to be an undue ‘amount of racking pressure, To solve this problem, we built the érawer rinners around the keys to support them and pre- vent racking, DRAWER RUNNERS. The drawer runners fare cut 1%! wide and long enough to fit tight between the front and back apron, see Fig. 12, Then ¥"-wide grooves are cut Yi¢ from the botiom edge of each runner. (These grooves lock with grooves onthe drawer sides.) After all four runners are eat, the two ‘utsiderunners also have wide notches cut in them to mate with the half lap on the dovetail ker, sce Fig. 13. (I cut these notches on the table sav, making multiple passes to clean out the waste.) Then serew the outside two drawer runners to the end caps, countersinking and screwing through the grocves, see Fig. 13, ASSEMBLY. To mount the dovetail key, Avil two 34 eountertores 4" deep in the halElapat the ton ofthe kev. ‘Then drill x? pilot holes through the remainder of the key for pan-head serews, see Fig. 18 Mount the dovetail key in the notch in the runners and mark the position of the two plot holes inthe end cap. Remove the oy and drill 3" holee, 9" deep in the end cap for threaded inserts, (Threaded in- serts are used here so the Keys can be mounted ani removed to complete the ‘construction of the trestle leg assembly.) ‘To mount the two inside runners, dll countersink holes through the top of the web frame and into the runners, then serew the runners in place, see Fig. M4 ‘TRESTLE ASSEMBLY To complete the trestle leg assembly, a stretcher (E) is added between the two sliding dovetail keys, Measure the di tance between the keys to get thelengthot the stretcher. (Make sure the keys are exactly perpendicular when this mea- ‘surement is taken.) Then add 1%" to this ‘measurement to allow for the two '-long. ‘tenons on each end of the stretcher. JOINERY. Cut the stretcher tolength and ‘width, Then cut 9’-deep slot mortises in the keys, and cut matching tenons on the ens ofthe stretcher, see Fig. 16. Also, drilla hole in the dovetail key for the peg that’s used to aljust the height ofthe desk. (To make this peg, [chucked a ¥ dowel inthe drill press and used afile to ‘earve” a knob on the end of the peg, 840 Detail in Fig. 16.) ASSEMBLY. Finally, mount the stretcher between the dovetail keys to make sure it's the right length (so the legs don't splay in or out). If this checks out, glue and clamp thestreicher intothe mortises in the keys, YE CORNER ROUND WoopsmiTHees Seuss oe “DISTANCE 10 wenn oF 'OTTOM oF exDoveEGUAS ramet Sonne US ORAeA our >e TONGUE, ‘THE DRAWERS ALtthis point the desk is almost complete, All that’s nooded aro the drawers and the desk top. I started with the drawers, DRAWER FRONT. To get the measure- ‘ments for the drawer front (H), measure the distance between the ouside edges of the runners, see Fig. 17. Then cut the raver front to this length, and to a width. S. I used dovetal tongue and groove joints to assemble the dra Sides (P) and back (Q). (A detailed deserip- tion ofthis type of joinery is givenon pages 20 to 22.) ‘Todo this, ext stoppal dovetail grooves an the inside face of the drawer fronts to sttach the drawer sides. The dovetail srootes are positioned so when the drawer Sides are attached, the distance between the outside faces ofthe drawer siles is Ys? Jess than the distance between the botiomis af the grooves on the drawer rumers, see Fig. 17, ‘After the dovetail groovesare cut onthe drawer front, eut the drawer sides tosize, ‘Thencut 4" grooves onthe outside faces oF the drawer sides tomate with the tongues on the runners, see Fig, 17. ‘BACK AND BOTTOM. After the sides are cat, join the bask hetwweon them with éove- {ail tongue and greove joints, and cut the Mascnite bottom to size, see’ Fig. 18 DRAWERHANDLE. Before assembling the drawers, [made a notched “handle” ox the drawer fronts, see Fig. 19. Cut out the hotel and smooth the etges with a saa drum on the drill press. Then eut a radius on the four earners of the drawer front, andround overalltheedgeswitha 4’ rounding over bit. ASSEMBLY. Now the drawers can be as- sembled and mounted to the rumers. ‘THE DESK TOP After the drawers are installed, the desk top is built. The top consists of a particle board panel with Formica laminated to it, and an oak frame around the edges. PRAME. I started by building tho 5/4 oak frame. The rails (M) and stiles (N) for this, frame are ripped to a width of 214", see Fig. 21. As for the length of these pieces, they're eut to fit the desk top assembly, (This assembly consists of the web frame, fend caps, and aprons, refer to Fig. 17.) ‘The top frame’s rails (M) are eut to length so they're 4 less than the distance between the end caps (J). Then the stiles (N) are cut to length so when the frame is. assembled the size from front to back is 144 larger than the web frame and aprons, seo Fig, 21 FORMICA PANEL. Before cutting the {pints to assemble this frame, I made the Formica panel insert. To do this, laminate se of Formica (I used dark henna, 8 WoopsMiTH+985) oa piece of "particle boar that's Gut to robgh size uf 21" 3 0". ‘Appyy a coat of contact cement to both the Formica and the particle board. When the cement is dry tothe touch, lay dowel rors over the particle brard and put the Formica ontop of the dowels, see Fig. 22. ‘Then slowly pullthe dowels ot, and press the Formica in place. GnoOvES. Ths laminated pane! is used ta locate the pesition of the ¥-wie by Ye -leep grooves on the inside edges ofthe four frame members. The bottom edges of these grooves shouldalign with the bottom ofthe particle board pane, see Fig, 20, After the grooves are cut, eut stub tenons on the ends ofthe stiles CN) tot tight inthe grooves, see Fig. 21. TONGUES. Dry-assemble the frame ‘members to get the measurements for the | panel, and eut the panel to this firal size, Next, rout rabbets on the edges of the Formica panel to create tongues that fit tight inthe grooves, see Fig. 2. (Sneak up. on the depth of these rabhets so the tongues fit snugly in the grooves.) ASSEMBLY. Before final assembly of the frame, I outed a peneil groove on the face of the ack rail of the frame, see Fig. 23. ‘Then glue and clamp the framemembers to the edges of the panel. After the desk top frame is assembled, it's mounted to the web frame with 11° hinges, see Fig. 24. Fosition the front edge ‘of the desk top so it’s flush with the fronts ofthe drawers, referto Fig. 27. Then rout ‘out mortises for the hinges in the web frame, (These mortises should be as deep as the total thickness of the hinges so the top frame rests flat on the web frame.) RACHET ASSEMBLY ‘The last stop is to make the rachet as- sembly thats used to tilt the desk top up. ‘This frame consists of two notched arms (O) that fit over dowel peas, see Fig. 26 Cut the arms from mne piece of 54 stock, see Fig, 25. Drill 4" holes along the edge, band stw oit the notches, and resaw this piece to get the two arms. Then join the arms at the bottom with a ¥ dowel red, and a erosspiece (I) half-lapped at the top, see Fig, 26. ‘Then the rachet fame is hinged to the bottom side of the desk top and %' dowel pegs are mounted to the inside drawor runners, see Fig. 2 FINAL STEPS To complete the desk, I added a “pencil catcher” to the front edge of the desk topso pencils or paper don't slkle off when the desk top is tilted up, see Fig. 29. Also, 1 adited sejustable pads to the base ofthe leg assemblies, see Fig. 28, ‘The last step was to finish all the wood parts of the desk with Sutherland Welles ‘Ting Oil. Fis ROUT CENTER yim erator on wine ee u ai a a “eine ston sHobibes oF choo R00VE RUNS END ENO comeniso, Sinem aon (MATERIALS LIST CUTTING DIAGRAM M Top Frome Rails (2) 1Yie x24 477% (N Top Frame Stiles (2). Tie x 2% - 20% (© Ratchet Frame Arms Tie x 14-19, e R s a v Drawer Sides () 1x20 16 2 Drower Becks (2) 424 19% Web Frame Pores Maronite Drawer Bttoms (2) V4 Masonite Top frame Perel ax 20M «44 Formica 2014 «44%, WoopsMiTH‘There's an old-time aint that’s not used much anymore: a dovetal groove and key. This Joint was used to hold several beardstogether, edge-to-edge (as ona table top). But Ted Kralieck (our De- sign Director) has discovered a new application for this joint, The dovetail key ean be used to make a corner joint to hold the sides of a box to- gether. Maybe that’s no big deal, but building this in/out box was kind of exciting because I got to usea jointthat I'd never even seen before, We also used another vari- ation on this joint (@ sliding dovetail key) to hold the port arm on the sides of the Upper and lower trays. All in all, this in/out box turned quite an interesting project t from a woodworking standpoint. ‘entire width of the side piece, eee Detail 1 in Fig. |. After the first pa center groove by moving the fence toward the bit about 12’ and make another p Then flip the workpiece end for end and rout an equal amount off the opposite side of the enter groove. Keep moving the fenee and roating until the groove is 13 wide. Next, install a 4" dovetail bit (also set ¥6" deep) ani rout the edges of the groove ‘THE SIDES I started this projest by cating 4" eak Stock lo ese for the side pices, ‘These pirees are eit toa fal length of 14 and {with so theyre a ttle more than Able wide, see Fig 1, (Its much easier tocut the dvetal grooves onthesepieses | itthey etart ot torts him watthef 204, see Deal 2n Me poveran cnoov vetail | 1, Then the double wide side plves can fe ronves that hold the upport arm inthe | ripped ih half-— to a Bal width of 2 tiay’s side pieces are routed frst I used | the router table with a %" straight bit to SUPPORT ARIS) ‘ean ait most of the waste inthis grooe. “Adjest te rauter table sence so th straigt bits centered onthe length of he the dovetail groove in the side pieces, side, ‘Then rout a %«’ deep dado across the | ig. 2. Then, with the dovetall Bit al the In/Out Box THE INS AND OUTS OF SLIDING DOVETAILS same depth of eut as on the ‘grooves, rout the half-dovetal profile on the edges of the support arms by making shal- Jow passes on both edges, see Fig. 2. Sneak up on these euts and test the fit until the sup- pert arm slides smoothly Dut not too loosely — in the groove. PEG SUPPORTS. To complete the support arms, round over the outsideedges. And finally tokeep the top tray in postion (refer to Fig. §), mount pegs centered 26" from the top of the support arms, see Fig. FRONTIBACK Next, I worked on the front ard back pieces, This is where aidovetail key is used to make ‘a corner joint ROUT GuoovES. To make thie joint, the firet stop is to rout dovetail ‘grooves on the face of the front and back pieces. However, since dovetail bits can not be raised in inerements to rout a kroove,{ staried with a straight Ditto clean out most of the waste, see Fig. For the fst pass, set the fenee to cut Yy-wide groove centered %' from the edge. For this cut, thestraight bits depth should be slightly less than the finished depth of groove so the final pass with the dovetail bit will create a really clean Alter the straight groove is routed on ono odge, tum the piece end-for-end and rout a second straight groove on the op- posite edge, ‘Then convert the tvo straight grooves Into dovetail grooves. Leave the router table's fence in the same position, and in- stall dovetail bit set for a Ye" depth of ‘up ro FINAL ory arte ‘RCUTING GROOVE ‘Ray surpoRT Atm pourenane she |\, WoopsMiTHui, and rout the dovetail profile en both Emvoves, DOVETAIL SockeTs. With this same setup on the router tablo, rout the sockets inthe ends of thesidepieees, sce Fig. 4. To support the side pieces and prevent chip. ‘out while they're on end, use a serap 2x block behind the workpieve. DovETalL KEYS Now the dovetall keys are cut to fit the ‘gtwoves in the front/back pieces. The keys are male by routing dovetail tongues on ‘wo strips that start out 3” wide and 1" longer than the length of the front/back pieces. (This extra length is to form the “pins” that make the corner joint.) Rout the dovetail tongues on both edges of both strips, seo Fig. 5. As you're rout. ing, Keep testing the fit in the grooves in the front/back pieces — it should be anu. ‘After the tongues are routed, simply rip the keys off the sips, seeDetall in Fig. 0. Although you can to eit the Keys flush with the surface ofthe trays, Leut thema sliver thicker than necessary. Then later, the whole assembly ean be sanded flush. After the first four keys are cut off the ‘ovo strips, repeat this whale process to get four more keys. Then apply elue to the srvoves and tap the keys in place. (Tap quickly here because the keys absorb maistuie from the gle and swell. Tap the keys in place until ¥" extends on both ends, see Fig. 6. (Be sure to clean off any fexceas glue from the ends of the keys.) ‘CUT OPENINGS. Before [ assembled the trays, Teut openings in the front Drill two 1” holes 4° on eenter and 7’ from the botiom edge, see Detail in Fi | ‘Then eut out the waste ona band saw, and smooth up the opening with a small sand- ing drum on the drill press, ASSEMBLE TRAYS After the openings in the front pieses are smoothed ott, gue the to sides and the front/bsck pieces together. Then trim the ‘excoss of 0a the ends of the Kays #0 the comers ean be rounded over later. RAMRET FOR BOTTOM. Next, rout a rab- bet on the bottom of each tray for the plywood bottom, see Fix. 7. (Lid this on the router table with a rabbeting bit and pilot.) Then eut the plywood bottom to Mt the rounded corners of the rabbet. Before gluing the bottom in place, finish sand the top side of the plywood. (I's easier to sand before i's nstaled.) ROUND OVER CORNERS, Finally, 1 rounded over the four outside corners on each tray with a 34" rounding over bit on the router table. Then I switehed to a roundirg.over bit to round over all the ges of each tray. FINISH To finish the trays, I sanded ll surfaces smooth, and then applied Suther- land Welles Tung Oil Qetium Luster). Ean) Stock TARAVESIVER gp 7 sORSANNG ech bre WoopsMirH esTwo-Drawer Caddy THE BEST PARTNER A DESK CAN HAVE 7 As we were working on the design of the adjustable desk (shown on page 4), we knew there would be « problem with stor- age, Rather than try to build a lot of extra storage drawers into the desk, we thought the hest solution would be to build sep arate, rll-around storage caddy. ‘As happens with a lot of prnjects, the caddy was built for one wse(as'a companion to the desk), but it turned out to bea nice project all by itself. ‘THE CADDY’S SIDES ‘To build this caddy, 1 started with the sold-wood sites (A). Both sides are made ‘of 5/4 (1M thick) oak, ‘To make the sides, rip eight pieces of stock 5” x 17° and edge-glue the pieces t form two sides with rough dimensions of 207 wide by 17” long. After the sides are ‘elved up, plano thom flat. (Note: The *in- side” face of the sides should be as flat as, possibleso the drawers oporate smoothly.) ‘Then trim the sides to their final size of 18°x 16+, (To aveid expansion/contraction problems, the grain on the sides must run the 167 direction, which means it will be horizontal when the eaddy is assembled, see photo.) ROUT GROOVE. After both sides are trimmed to size, three Y’-wide grooves rerouted on the inside face to attach the top, botiom and back, First, I marked each plese to indieate which edge would be for the top, bottom and back. Thea I marked thestart andstoppoints ofthe grooves so I could easily see whereto begin and end the routing pase, ‘To guide the roater, clamp a fenceto the side piece, Tetarted with the groovefor the top, then moved the fence to rout the ‘grvove for the bottom, and finally, routed the groove for the back so it starts and stops in the first two grooves, see Fig. L Each time a groove is routed, make sure the direction of eat is from left to rght so the rotation of the bit forces the router against the fence, ROUND CORNERS. After the three grcoves are routed on each side piece, use ‘4 compass to mark a 36" radius at each comer, and carefully round the corners off. ‘Then round overall the edgos (on both the inside and outside faces) using a % round- ing over bit. THE END CAPS At this point, the sides are complete. The next step is to build the caddy’s top and bottom (C). Both of these pieces are made (out of 9° partie board with 5/4 (Lvs thick) oak caps (B) on the front and back edges. The top also has. piece of Formica laminated to it. CUT PARTICLE HOARD, Start by cutting two ploces of partisle boardto a ough size of 17 x 12", Then laminate a piece of For- ‘mica to the piace for the top. (used For mica brand laminate. The eolor is Dark ‘Henna #385, matte finish.) END APS. Next, the end caps are cut and added to the front and lek edges, Rip four MATERIALS LIST caps 2/4" wide by 16° long. Once again, so I could keep things straight in later steps, I marked each end eap’s position (topifront and back, bottom/front and back GRooVES IN CAPS, ‘The end caps are Joined to the particle board with tongue ‘end groove joints. To koop this joint fash, the location of the grooves in the end eaps is ertical (especially on the top). ‘The eaps on the top have to fit so they're perfectly fush with the surface ofthe Por- CUTTING DIAGRAM ‘Oyeall nemsionn 7Fw RISTaR BO Drower Bottoms (2) auddy Boek (1) Femme Ter (1) Ve ply. (cut tof) Vee 1S 16% 1x 15% A Side @) Vie 18-15. 2 End Cops (4) Max Danis © Top &Bottem(2) —Yax 11%4- 15% D Drawer Runners (0) 743 74 E Wg. DrawerFront (1) x 12% F Sm. Drawer Fort (I) 1/0 x 314-15 G Ig. DrawerSides (2) Yau 9 - 13% H ig. Drawer Bock(1) x9 13% Sm. Drawer Sides (2) vax 3 - 133% 4. Sm, Drawer Back (1) 4x 3-13% x L M 12 WoopsMITHIndex of Contents ‘This index overs all of the articlea (in- cluding projects and techniques) contained in the first 80 issues of Woodsmith. The ‘numbers following each lstingrrefer to the Issue and pages where you eas find fntor- ‘mation on the listed sabjeet. For example, 20:4-7 refers to information in Woodsmith issue No. 20 on pages 4 through 7. Angle Cutting odd 20:23 Drilling 4:10 Atigue wall minor 261819 Rand saw Blade 10:8 Cutting: duplicates 22:3 Barrister's bookcase 29:16-21,24 Bead cutting jig 16:8 Bed-side stand 18:4-7 Belt buckle 10:6 Bolt sander 15:7; Beet chee 161215 Blind dovetail 127 Bookcase 7:6-7; 29:1621,24 Boolerasle 7212 ing jig, horizontal 12:1 Fruit 2118-21 neon B24 ‘ Chisel 2420-22 End grain 1 Towels 935; 2420.22 Music 66-1; 28:4-7,24 Recipe 10:8 Routed 131 ‘Slide-top (finger jointed) 17-14-15 ‘Tissue 2:5; 19:24 Toy 20:4-9.24 Box construction 8:5; 434-5; 26:16 Box joint 2:45; 17:18-18 Drawers 17:1619 ig 2: Branding irons 10:3, ‘Bread board 20:24 Bread box, rollstop 4:6-8 Buckle, belt 10:6 Buifet table, wateley 20:14-17 Bullet cateh 19:12,17 Butior’s tray tabla 14:10-11,16; 16:3 Cabinet Barristor's bookcase 20:16-21,24 Bedside stand 18:47 aned-panel eabinct and hutch 2218-22 Cabinet, cont. Chair'side 24:14:17 Colonial dry sink 18:12-15 Colonial wall hateh 18:16-19 Contemporary huted 1:-¢ Curio 21:1 7 Dipiy a, Se-6 European cabinet and hutch 22: Frame and panel 8-11 Modular storage system 22:12:15, Raised-parel door 87 Shop storage 25:4-7 Spool 26455 Tambour stereo 173-9 ‘Pambour TV 25:14-19 ‘Pambour wall 1731011 Cabinet seraper M:12-13; 15:7 Camp stool 87 Candle stand table 116-7 Caned-panel cabinet and huteh Canistes, tamed 115; 253-12 21: 22 Car, toy race 5:12 Carbide-tipped Router bit 21:89; 23:23 Table saw blades 27:16-21,24; 28:19,23 Carpenter's triangle 16; 18:6, Cart, mierowavelerving 233-11 Contemporary 2:6-8, 15:11 Deck Oak, dining 16:8-11 Patio 278-11 ‘Seat 25:23 CChatr-side cabinet 24:14-17 Chest Blanket 1612-15, Sixcdrawer (box joint drawers) 1716-19 Sweater 9-9 Toy 204-9.24 ‘Cheval mirror 30:1-8,24 Chisels 1955; 205811 Chisel case 21:20-22 Christmas ornaments 6:10-12 Gireles, routing 20:18; 21:10-11; 30:9 Cirealar ‘Clock 80-10-11 Inlay routing 2622 Mirror frame 12:10-11 ‘Table top 19:3; 0:12-15, ‘Clamping Stops 12 ‘Table top 15:7 Clamps Hand serews 15 ‘Table top 1733 Wedge 5: Clock lar 9010-11 Desk 10 Mantel 24:81; 90:28, jock, cont Octagonal 123-9 Round s:10-11 Schoolhouse 21:47; 9 Clubs, woodworking: 27: shod ay 2A Dry sink 1812.15 Goncolreipe sol 64-5 Cooling rack 12 Comer Soint, plywood 22:8 ‘Template 293 Cove cutting 116; 20:28 Curio cabinet 2113.15; 2612.17 Cutt fig, radial arm saw 22:3 Cutting board 1:1 Dado blade, adjustable 17.26; 23:23, Danish ol finishes 8012-15 Deck Chair 38.9 Squares 8:10 Dont 26812 19,23; 29:2 Dents Desk Lap 9:6 Shaker-style wridng 12:47 Diamond stones 247 Dining table Gireular with leat 30:16-21,24 Contemporary oak 15:45 Droplet 118-10 Pienle 24-7 ‘Trestle 18-5 2822-15, Display case 9:11; Doo Caned-panel 22:18-22 Glass 12: 18-22; 24:9; 25:19; 215-1 Hinges 12:8-9; 20.19 ‘Muntins 13:89 Ralsed-panel 2:10-11; 18:4-19; 28:1417 ‘Techniques 13:8-%; 2920-2), Dovetail Blind 127 Drawers 19: Fixtures Groove 1:6 Hand: ‘Machine-cut lap Plywood 228-9 Rabbeted 21:3 Routed 22:6-9 Saws 195. ‘Through 12:7; (ssue 19) WoopsMiTHee ESE Dovetail, cont. ‘Tongue and groove 9:7; 20:20-29,24 Dowels Chamfering 10:8 Cutting 1633 Grooved 16:3 Sanding 9:12 Use 2423; 2916-21; 302 Drawer ‘Construction 4 16-19; 18: 2115; 2214-1 2945-9, 14-15,24 Plysrood 22:14-15 Routed front 21:3 Drill bits, mortising 26:20-21 Daill guide, Portalign 123,13 Drill press, Collet chuck 12:3; 26:23 Guide 1:6 ote boring jie 228 Mortises 1 Morlsing bits 262021 Pressmate table elevator 16:20 Router chuck 12: ‘Table support 19: Deilling Guide 1:6 Tig 3 Horzontal boring 12:13, Shopemith Mark V 203 ‘Template 22:12-13 Drop-leat Hinge 11:10; 14:8 Join 11310; 7-8 Pembroke table ‘Table 18-10 End grain Box 15:13) Gluing Sealing #3 File cabinet 7:8. Filler Nail hole 158 ‘Sawdust glue 17:3 Finger joint 1724.15, Finishes Nomtoxic 19:28; 95:23; 28:24 Oil 30-1241 Outdoor 27: ‘Turning 25:23 Finishing techniques 14:9; 283; 90:12:15, Fixtures Dovetail 225610; 23:3; 273 Nailing 15 Frame Gireular 12-10-11: 30:10-11 Gallery clock 80:10-11 Gluing 25:11; 30:9 Molded edge 24:8-17,20-22; OLS ‘Mortise and tenor26:7-11 ‘Qetagonal clock 12:8-9, 214-7 Octagonal, jig 21:17 Oval 5:9 2021; ‘Frame, cont Rabbet roating 26:22 Round clock 30:10-11 Web construction 8: BABB BAIA; Br 2O:12-17, 29:4 Frame and panel construction 8:6,8-11; 1G:12-15; 18:4-19; 24:14-17,20-22, 29:42 Galery clock 30:10-11 Gateleg bute table 20417 Cutting 18:16; 17:20 Door 13:8-9; 2218-22; 26:9; 25:19; B:1517; 2018-90 ‘Mounting 11:3 Sanding 13:3 Sig 25:18 Miters 212; 309 ‘Tambours 17:45, Goblets, turned 28:47; 2423 Grinder tool rest 20: Grinding wheels 2: Halfblind dovetail 224-9 lap 12 2: A511; 106-5 Hall mimor 2116 Hand-cut dovetails 22:45; 233 ‘Hand screws 15:7; 283. Hexagon 168-9; 18:3 Hinges Fuitler's tray table 14:16; 103; 20:23 Dado 183. Door 18:59 Dropleaf Il Glass door 25:19 Knife 13:89) ‘Wooden (issue #9) Hold-down jig 23:3, Holding jig, vise 29: Hole boring jig 2:3 Horizontal boring jig 12:18 Hutch Contemporary 13:4-7 European eanicd-panel eabinot and hutch 2518-22 Inlay 20.17; 26:6 22; 28:8-15,24 Jack plane 15:7 ‘Japanese water stones 24:4-6; 26:25, Jewelry box 9:5; 24:20-22 Sigs ‘Angle drilling 4:10 Bead cut 16:3 Box joint 234 Dentil molding 26:2; Dowel making 19:2 us Gluing 25:18) old-down 23:3 Hole boring 22:3, Horizontal boring 12318 Aoinery Blind dovetail 12-7 Box 254-5; 17:1213,10-19 Corner, plywood Dovetail 198-11; Dovetail tongue and groove 2020-22, 24 Drop-leal 11:10; 147-8 Finger 1721-15 Frame and panel 8:6,8-11; 16:12-16; Hand-ent dovetail 224-5; 23:3, Haunched mortise and tenon 14:10-11; 1819) Keyed mortise and tenon 1:4 Lap dovetail 22:40 Locked miter 9:10 Locked tongue and dado 12:7 Machine-cut dovetail 22:69 Miter and spline 7:11; 21:6-9,12-16. 222022; 30:2,4-11 16-22 Mitered halflap 2:11 Mitered mortise and tenon 1616-17, ‘Molded mortise and tenon 24:12-15,24 Mortise and tenon It; 83-5; 12: Open mortise and tenon 2431822 Parallel spline 99 Plywood dovetails 2:8-9 Rabbet and groove (also called rabbet! dado or rabbeted tongueldado) 6: 1039; 15:47; 181245, 1621; 214-7 15, PADI; 264-6 Rotted dovetail 22:09 Rule 1:10; 147-8 Sliding dovetail tongue and groove 2022021 Stave construction 25:84 Stopped dato 25,11 Stub tenon and groove 29:22 ‘Through davetall 12: ‘Tongue and groove MIT Sigs, cont. ‘Mitor 12:15; 2412-13 ‘Molding 2622 ‘Mortise cutting 16:18; 1829 Octagonal frame 21:1 Panel cut-off 25:13; 273; 28:3 Panel cutting 18:28; 22:11 Pin-roating 28:20-28 Radial arm saw cut-off 2:8 Radial arm saw router 20:3 Raised panel 203 Resawing 69 Ripping 25:13. Router-eut mortise 26 Routing roand blanks 2533 Shelf support 1838 ‘Taper 1:6; 5:4; 11:3 ‘Tenon 16:18; 24:18-19; 25:3 Vise holding 20:3 WoopsMITH5 aS SS EIS Toinery, cont. ‘Twin tonon 12:12 Wedzed mortise and tenon 15:8:12 Kite Hinges 13:8-9 Holder 10:7 Lamp Dovetail 22:24 te Desk 2:6 Dovetail 22: Lazy Susan 2i Tapered 1:11; 144-8; 28:12:13 ‘Turned 12: Letter opener 10:7 Light bracket, swivel 9:4 Linseed oil finish 30:12-15 Lorked miter 9:10 eT | Losked tongue and dado 13:7 ‘Machine-cut dovetail 22:6.9 Mantel clock 2:81 90:25, ‘Microwaverserving cart 23:8-11 Mirror Antique wall 25:18:19 Cheval 30:-8,24 Girewar frame 12:10-11 Hall 21:16, Vanity 1035; 2424 Miter Cutting 21:8-0,17; 23:3; 25:23; 309 Gauge, table sav 25:3, 27:23; 20229, Gluing 21:3; 309) ig 12:15; 24:12-19 Locked 9510 Mathematies 12:14-15 spine joinery: 220-2 BO LL 62S ‘Mitered half_lap 211 ‘Mitered mortise and tenon 16:16-17 Modular storage system 22:12-15 Molded edge frame 218-17, 20-2 2010-2; ih Molded mortise and tenon 24:12-13 Moldings 24:10-18; 26:12-10,99; 28:4-7; 293,17 Morlise Angled 168-11 Bits 23.2021 Cutting jig 16:18; 18:28 Double dado 167 Drill press 18:23 Router-cut, jig 26:3; 30:22 Slot 8:4; 1 2149.12.16; 9-5; 12:4-7,1%5 ABAD; 14:5; 158-12; 16:4-7,12.18; YEAS; 18:4-10,24; 2014.17; 21:12" 1b; 22:18-22; 24:9,12-13,18-92, 24, 5:22; 267-11 Frame 28:7-11 Haunchod 14:10-11; 18:41 Keyed lst ‘Molded 24:12-18,24 Open 24:1822 ‘Twin tenon 12:12 Wedged 18-12 Muntins 18:59, Musie box 6:6-7; 28:47,24 Nailing axture 153 Nestled tables 2812-15 Note board 18:24 Octagon 12:8-9; 16:10; 2134-7 Frame jig 21:17 Ol finishes 3012-15 24 Ornaments, Christmas 6:10-12 Outdoor Eumiture dssue #33; 27-13 08 24-15 Panel eu aig 1% 27; 283 Panel eiting 8:12; 11:3; 1825; 22-11 Parallel spline 9:9, Patio chair 275-11 Pembroke table 14-8 Pencil ard card holder 2:12 Pini table 27:47 Pietare frame router bit 93; 103 Picture and glass mounting 11:3 in routing 23:10-11,16-18,20-22 Pipe clamps 15:3,7: 283 Plane Aaljustments 2820-2; 5:28 Bench 23:16-22 Flattoning 2 Sack 15:7 Sharpening 25:16-19 Planer, Wagrer Safe“T- 10:10; 15:7 Planing, table top 25:21 Planter’ Cedar pillars 3:4 Hanging 3:12 Redwood tub 3:3 Taperes-sides 1 Plunge routers 2823 Plywood Buying tips 30:28 Comer join. Dovetals 223-9, Drawer construction 22:14-15 Splintering 22:11 Popeorn bowl, turned 25:24 Portalign Dail guide 12:3,13 Shaper bit 12:10-11 Presomate dell press table elevator 16:20 Rabbet and groove joint (also called abbetidao ov rabbeted tonueldado) 19 1ST 5 25; 2038 0-11 Rabbeted Dovetails 21:3 Drawer front 229 aitaime, routed 25:22 3:8 Router jig 209 ‘Techniques 15:16; 1616-18; 173; Radial arm saw tedhniques, con! 18:11,28 Raised:panel 210-11; 87; 16:4-16,29; 20:3; B28 2414-17 Rasp 26:23 Recipe box 108 Resawing 6:9; 28:47 Ripfhevel 16:8 Ripping jig 2513 Roll-top bread box 4:68 Rosan inserts 22:11,14-15; 24:3; 27:24; B24, 30:3 Routed Bor 1842-18; 2810-11 Dovetails 226-9 Drawer front 213 Snack tray 28:16-18 Router Bit, carbide tipped 21:8-9; 23:23, rmortisng 20-20-21 ture frame 9:9 103 ‘Chuck with dril press 12:3, Debris 24:23 Dovetail fixtures 22:69; 23:3, Guide, multi-purpose 17:20 ig, centered ‘ig, mortise cutting 26:2 ‘Tig, adkal arm saw 20:3 Sig, round banks 25:8 Pin 28:10-11,16-18,20.22 Plunge 28:23 ‘Techniques 10:11-12; 18:9, 20:18; 21:3, S11; 25:13; 26:22, 28:10-11,16-18, 29-23; 304-11 10-22 ‘Trammel attachment 30:48,10-11,16-21 Router table Construction 20:18-19, 22:16-17 Inserts 90:3 Pin-routing attachment 2820.22 Planingon 183 Sahre saw setup 30:3 Stand 221617 Safe-T-Planer, Wagner 10:1(; 15:7 Sander Belt 15:7 Rockwell Speed Bloc orbital 14:12; 15:7 Sander stand, belt 10:10 Sanding Cireles 11:12 Disk 18: ‘Table top 15:7 Saw, dovetail 19:5 Saw blade Band 103 Table, carbide-tipped 27:16-21,24; 23:19,28 Cleaning 17:3; 2123 Schoolhouse clock 21:4-7 Sconce, candle 6: 28 WoopsmiTHBrase 18:3, Sheet rock 18:3; 1923) Serving Cart 2838-11 ‘Tray 19:1 Shaker-style Pog rack 28 Step stand 19:20-22 ‘Tables (iseue #11) Writing desk 12:4-7 Shaper Bit 1231011 Gules 19:23) Sharpening. Aids 2 Carbile-tipped table saw blades 28:18 Chisels 208:11; 26:23 Diamond stones 24:7 Japanese water stones 24:4-6; 2623 Plane irons 23:18-19 Seraper blade 14:13 ‘Stones 20:47, 12-13) 21:28 ‘Table saw blades 28:19 Shelf Aligning brackets 11:3 Wall 20:00-21 ‘Shooting board 13:3 Shop storage Box 15:14-15. Cabinet 25:4-7 Cart 13:14-15, Side table 1: Sliding dovetail tongue and groove 2030-21 ‘Snack tray, routed 28:16-18 Spalted wood 2823 Spice box 633 Spindle turning 26:3, Spine Cutting 10:3 1 Parallel 09 Routed groove 21:8-9 Use 232 Spool display ease 26:4 Slave construction 258-9,24; 27:3; 3023 Stereo cabinet, tambour 17:69 Stones: Diamond 24:7 Japanese water 2 23 ‘Sharpening 20:4-7,12-13; 212 23 Stool Camp, Shop 4:11 Stopped dado 25,11 Starage Modular system 2512.45 Shop 15 Table saw 15:14-15 Sweater chest 98-9 Shrivel light bracket 9:4 ‘Table Bullet gate-tog 20-17 Butler's tray 14:10-11,16 Canale stand 11:67 209) Table, cout. Coffee 19:1417; 25:20-22 Contemporary oak 154-5 Dining $0:16-21,24 Double-duty 1: Droprleat 1 Gate-leg bulfet 20:14.17 Leaf 3018219) Shalkerstyle side 1115 Top 16:6-7; 178; 19:3; 20:17; 21:28; Baza ‘Trestle 1:85; 281215, TY tray 164-7; 17:20 ‘Table saw Blades, carbide-tipped 27:16-21,245 23 Dato ade, adjastable 1:20 Storage Ti: ‘Techniques 15:15; 12:16: 16:8, 10-11; 18:11,23; 20223, Tambor Rolhtop bread tox 0-8 inct 1730-6 ‘Technics deb) 1711; 2035 2514-18 ‘TY cabinet 25:14-19 : ‘Wall eabinet 1710-11 ‘Taperfbevel 16:10-11 Sig 2418-19; 2833 Mitered shoulder 1618, 10-17 Repairing, round 23:2 Stagnered-shoulder haunched 18:10-11 AMAT, 2934.22 28:24; 303, ‘Through dovetail 12:7 ‘Tie rack 1:2 ‘Tips anid techniques (issues 7-B0:paxe 3) ‘Tissue box 1824 “Tissne box cover 25 ‘Tongue and groove joint 1 TS:12-19; 2020-9224; ‘Too! rest, arinder 20:1 2433 ‘Tool storage 4:9,12 Toy ‘Chest 29:49,24 Race ca 5:12 ‘Train 510-11 ‘Tray Gin sorter 1058 Routed snack 8:16-18 Serving 19:19 Shack 2810-18 TV, tables 16 5 Te to 1720 ‘Trestle bench “Trestle table 13-5; 23:12-15 ‘Tung oil finish 3012-15, ‘Turning Bow! 2118-21; 2524 Canister 14:14-15, 25:8-12; 27:3; 90:28 Fruit bow! 21:18-21 ‘TV fray tables 16:47; 17:20 Vanity mirvor 24:21 Veneer 1410-11 Veneer tape 1738; Vise Dogs 283 Holding ig 203 Wagner Site-T-Planer 10:10 Wall shelf 20:20-21 Waste basket (5 Water stones, Japanese 24:46 Web frame construction gage sent 2447 a6az Tt Wale lamps 538 ld Btnonwons 22:28 ‘Movement 97 Outdoor use 2:11; Spalted 28:23, Storage 19:23; 303 Woocen hinges (issue #9) Woodworking clubs 27:24 24 5 BDA; 29:24; WoopsMITHmica. (Ifthe eap is too high, its difficult to sand down without rulning the Formica.) To get this perfect alignment, I didn't luse a ruler or measurement. Instead, 1 tused the actual laminated piece to set up the router table to rout the groove, Hold thelaminated piece against the fence of the router table and adjust the fenee until the ful thickness of the piece touches the on side edge of a 14" straight bit, (This same procedure can be used on a table saw.) ‘Then rout 2 "-leep groove in both cays, for the top. When completed, the botiom of the groove should meet the bottom of the Particle board, see cross section, Fig, 2. CAPS FOR BOTTOM, Althoagh the bottom piece of particle toard Is actually thinner (becauseit’s rot laminsted with Formica), used the same set-up on the roiter table to rout the grooves for the bottom caps. (These caps will be completely hidden from iew by the bottom drawer. Perfection here is not so important.) PENCIL GROOVES. The caps could be added as they are nov, but I thought it would beniceto rout peneil grooves in the caps on the top. It takes three passes on, the router table with two different bits to reate this wide groove profile, First tse & Ws straight bit to rout a ¥ir-deep groove slown the center ofthe caps, see Detail lin Fig. 3. ‘Then switch to a%" core box bit, eenter ‘t on one of the shoulders created by the straight bit, and rout the eave profile 3c" deep, see Detail 2. Then repeat this pro- ess on the other shoulder, GROOVES FOR BACK. Before the caps are joined to the top and bottom pieces, T outed the grooves used to hold the eaddy's plywood back in place. ‘These 1s'-wide Erooves are located 3’ from the back edge of the caps, seo Fig. ‘Then one last step. The bottom/tront ‘end eap isto be trimmed to a width of 172 (Gee Fig. 4) to allow space for the front of the bottom drawer. TONGUES FOR END caps After the end caps are complete, cut the ‘5€ partiele board for the top and bottom to final size of 16" x 104", see Fig. 5. RABBET TOP AND BOTTOM. Thien to join the particle board to the endl caps, rout abbets on the two long edges of both pieees to form tongues that ft the grooves 4m the end cape, Here it's best to slowly sueak up on the depth of the rabbot, until the tongue fits smugly in the grooves. SAND END CAPS, Bocause the face of the end caps vill bo butted against the For- mica top, finish sand the Uo top eaps before gluing them to the top, ATTACH END cars, Finally, glue and clamp the end eaps to the top and bottom, When the glue is dry, trim the two edges that wil be joined tothe eaddy’s sides, and aduee the total width to 151 WoopsmiTH IreuResJOINT BEA ATTACH TOP AND BOTTOM ‘To join the top and bottom to the caddy’s silos arabbotieroxtedon th egos ofthe top and bottom to proce «tongue to fit She ven nto das seoDetal a 6 The fit here should be snug. Again, fea prone ct te race nue the tongues ft the grooves ‘Alo, the bottom side of the end caps rustbe routed Mush with thebottom ofthe Pattcle board, see Fig. 6. When the thickness ofthe tongue isthe groove, trim about 3 off the front and Jack edges so the length of the tonzue fits the length of the groove, see Fig, 6. TROUND OVER EDGES, The last step is to round over the edges on the end eaps with 2 Ve rounding over bit. (Shop Note: T faved this rounding-over step until last to fomovo any ovidoneo ofchipeut that might fecur when the tongues are routed on the tclges of he tap ane bottom) ound over the edges on both eaps on the tap, but only the back cap on the bol- tom (The front eap on the bottom wl be hdden by the arawer.) THe BACK, The only other piece needed for the caddy i the plywood back. Dry clamp the top, bottom, and sides of the caddy together ani measure the greove- fo-gmove opening, Then eit the "oak iywood back about "less in both dimen ons to allow for exparsionleontractin of the solid-vod sides ofthe caddy. ‘THE DRAWERS Normally, I would assemble the eaddy at this point. But because the backs set into, grooves when the caddy is assembled, it ‘Would be difficult to getinside to mount the Grawer munners, Instead, { dry-clamped the eaddy together and started work on the drawers. ‘The caddy shown here has a small drawer on top, and a larger drawer at the bottom that’s sized to hold file folders However, this botiom drawer could easily be changed to two smaller drawers, if desired. DHAWER FRONTS. To determine the size of the drawer fronts, dry-clamp the caddy together and measure the front opening. messurement rurs from the bottom edge of the lop cap all the way to the bottom edge of the eaddy’s sies. (The bottom drawer does not end at the bottom shelf, it goes all the way tothe bottomedge of the caddy’s side.) The combined height of the drawer fronts should be a total of less than this measurement to allow a %" space at the top and ’ between the drawers. When the measurements of the drawer fronts are determined, cut the piece forthe top drawer front to size, ‘Thon gle up enough stock for the bottom drawer front fand trim it to size. 4 WoopsMITHDRAWER SIDES AND BACK. To complete the dravters, I used 4" stosk for the sides and baekof the drawers and joined them to the fronts with dovetail tongue and groove joinery, see Figs. 7 and 8. We've put all the step-by-step infor- ‘mation for making this kind of drawer ina separate article cn pages 21 to 23. But briefly, the sides are joined to the fronts by routing stopped dovetail grootes in the drawer fronts. These grooves are posi tioned so the sides are set in 4" from the edge of tho front, ece Figs, 7 and 8, Next, dovetail grooves for the drawer back are routed on the inside fice of the draver’s sides. Then dovetail tongues are ‘cut on the drawersides and the back to ft the grooves. Also, ¥/-wide grooves are routed for the drawer bottom, and ‘Wide grooves are routed in the outside face of the sides for the runners. DIAWER PRONT HANDLES, After the ddravter’s sides, back and bottomare done, went back to work on the drawer front to make the notched openings that serve as handles. To make these notches, drill two V"holes 4" apart, see detail in Fig. 7. Then cut out tho notches on a band saw. After they're roughed out, smooth the edges with a sanding drum on a dill press. ‘Then round all the corners of the drawer front to a%" radius, and usea “rounding verbit (on the router table) to round over all the edges. ASSEMBLE DRAWERS, Now the drawers tan be assembled. Apply glue to the tongues on thedraver'ssides and back and slide them into the grooves. Then glue the bottom in place and clamp the drawer together. DRAWER RUNNERS ‘Tho drawers are mounted in the caddy ‘vith wooden rinners that are serewed to the exddy’s sides. Cut these runners tosize 40 they extend into the grooves in the drayer's sides, allowing abouts" ear ace between the runner andthe bottom of the groove, see eross-seetion in Fig. 12 ‘Then tomount the runners to the ealdy, counterbore and drill slightly oversized oles for tound-head serews and washers, see Fig. 11. (These holes are over-sized 80 there’s exough flexibility to adjust the drawer runners as they're installed in the caddy.) ASSEMBLE CABINET. At last, the eaddy can be glued ard clampei together. As the {op and bettom are mounted between the sides, alao be bare to put the backin place. (Note: Donot glue the plywood baek inthe srvoves. The cady’s sides must le bee to ‘expardleoatract.) FINAL STEPS. After the caddy was as- ‘sembled, I installed 2 casters to the bot- tom, see Fig. 10, Then finished the ealdy vith vo coats of Wateo natural Danish Of Finish, WoopsMiTHTools of the Trade A BUYER'S GUIDE TO ROUTERS “You guysat Woedsmith sare do liketo use routers When you're not using it hapd- held torout grooves or eutcirles, youve got it mounted toa routertable. Now that you've got me convinced that I've got to hhave one, which one should T get?" ‘Our ove affair with routers is no secret — almost every project we show in Wood ‘gmith uses arouter in one way or another. ‘And since we use routers and the roi table so often, we reeeivea lot of requests asking which router we use, and more to the point, which we recommen a's really atough question, There are over thirty models of routers on the mar- eet to choose from — ranging from ex- pensive heavy-daty industrial motels to Inexpersive (and underpowered) toys. owe decided to buy a selection ofthese routers, andreview the merits of each, But Sine we couldn't review every model retlueed the field by setting some guide- Tinea. First ofall, we desided to review only standard (aot plunge-type) routers in a TE.P. to 1HLP. range (to provide ample over for eating’ hardwoods). Then ve put a ceiling on the retal price at $200, 1 know that seems like a lot of money for router, bu ts the upper limit we set so ‘we could inslude some of the industrial quality routers. Several routers we re- ieweel cost much less (one model retals for less than $60. THE CRITERIA. After setting these guidelines, we decided to look at four froups of features. The first group is the Controls, which includes advantages and disadvantages to the style of base and handles thetypeof switel andits lecation; the amount of starting torque (twisting force); and the ability to keep the router under control during start-up and operation. ‘The second group of features is Bit ‘Changing, and includes the method used to change bits, and the size and style of ‘wrenches provided with the router. ‘The third group is Depth Adjusting, which reviews features such as the method for adjusting the depth of ent, the mothod of securing the motor in the base, the ‘amount of clearance in the baso for bits, andthe ability to keep a biteenteredin the ‘base at different height settings. ‘The fourth cat led Router Table Compatibility, and reviews any problems with mounting the router to a router table, any problems with obstruc- tions, ard the limits on the depth of cut. ‘Then finally, we inclided a short review of the accessories offered for each router. THE RATING SYSTEN. To provide both consistency in our opinions, and to allow direct comparisons, we rated each router fon the four major areas listed above by assigning a numbered grade from 1 (poor) to & (oxcollent), For a summary of the rating, see the chart on page 19, ROUTER BASIS ‘As ve began choosing our initial gro routers, we founclourselves asking serious questions ahout the ball-handled bases that inclide on/off togele switches on the ‘motor housing, (Uhis style is shown oh the Black and Decker #3510, see photo 1.) Tt was clear that there were two safety- related problems with this style base and switeh. First, in order to turn on the router, you have to take one hand off the hhanile to engage the switch, leaving only fone hand to hold the router. This one: handed control is awkward at best, espe- cially when you've trying to hold onto a ‘small ball handle, ‘The osher problem has to do wit toggle switeh. This type of switch ean ac ‘dently be turned to the “on’ postion while therouterisun-plugged, Ifyou don'tcheck 673, PORTER-CABLE the switch before plugging in the router, the motor could start instantly. ‘That's dangerous. Because of these two safety aspects, we ‘decided toreview routers with this type of ase only if they weren't offered with a different style of base. With this alditional ction, we chose group ofeix outers to review. ‘The first four routers in the follo review are indistral quality — designed for long-term heavy-duty use. They udethe Blackand Decker #8310, Port Cable #675, Makita #86018, and the Bosch #1608. The last two routers we reviewed, Sears #9-HT-1749 and the Blackand Decker #7614, aresold for home use, and are not built for the heavy-duty use associated with industrial routers, BLACK AND DECKER #3310 ‘The Black and Decker router model 3310 is a baste, no-fills workhorse, that’s de- signed for serious fulltime routing. CoxtHoLs. Although the model 3910 ‘comes with two ball handles that are very ‘easy 1 grip, when they're combined with a toggte switch, they still present the safet problems mentioned above. In defense of the motor on the model 8310, it produces very litle starting torque, which reduces the problem of control associated with the ‘all-handied base. BIT CHANGING, We found changing bits on the 8310 to be relatively easy. Fitst of all, you ean stand the router upside down (onits “head” to ckange bits, Then tohelp simplify things, the 3810 uses two iden- ieally-sized. wrenches for loosening the collet nut from the spindle “The only rel problems with the 5-4ong stamped-steel wrenches supplied with the router. They extend less than 2” beyond ‘the base — hot enough to get a good grip. DEPTH ADJUSTING. The depth adjusting WoopsMITHsystem on the model 8810 uses a rack and pinion gear. Although this system works smoothly, making adjustments in very ‘small increments ix difficult, And the eal brated knob on the 8310 is very small, and ‘almost impossible to read accurately, depth adjustment is made, the hheld in place by: turning an ea to-grip wing nut that tightens a split-arm assembly (within the solid base). ‘This split arm tightening system works well, and probably aceounts for this router'sability tokeep bits centered in the | base at various height settings better than any other router we tested. ‘But when we tried using a 4" rounding over bit with the 810, the collet holein the plastic sub-base was so small that i pre- Vented us from using even this commonly ‘used bit, ROUTER TABLE ComPATIBILITY. When it came time to attach the 3310 to a router table, we had some problems, First, the screw holes in the base don't penetrate eompletely through the base, This memns the serews must be a specifé length to attach the router. If the screws. are just a hair too long, they can easily ‘strip out the threads in the base, However, once we got it mountedto the router table, we soon found its Achilles’ heel. When it’s mounted on a thick router table top (as on the Woodsmith version), thecollet's highest setting is still 0 below the surface of the table, This tereatos problems with some router bits, Forexample, we couldnt rout afull profile with a 44" rounding over bit, ACCESSORIES. Black and Decker offers fan edge guide and trammel point as two ‘separate accessories that are both difficult to adjust, and similar enough that they could have been designed as one (cost saving) attachment. PORTER-CABLE A couple of years ago, Rockwell sold its hhanil held power tool division to Porter- Cable, And although the name has changed, the new Porter-Cable model 675 is identical tothe old Rockwell model 675, CONTKOLS. The base of the Porter Cable | (Rodwell) 675 is a hybrid: “D” handle on ‘one side with a ball handle on the other (The on-off trigger switeh is in the D- handle.) One feature not usually found ‘with this handle arrangement is that the Dall is at 120° to the "D” handle Gnstead of 180", straight across), s0 it ean be switched for right- or left-and use, Initially this appeared as a nice feature, But as we began to use it, we found the handle position mate it difficult to keep the router fiom teetering when routing the edge of a work surface [Bit CHANGING. Another problem with this handle srangement is that it barely provides enough room to get the thin Stamped-steel wrenches in the opening of the base, let alone enough reom to tighten the collet nut, Although the model 67 can be stood upside down to change bits it's sometimes nearly impossible to get the eollet nat to release. [don't know what the problem is, butit ean be areal knuckle buster if those thin wrerehes slip, adjusted by rotating the motor within the ‘base. This system works well, and allows very small depth adjustments, However, the calibrated ring (used to gauge the Aepth of eut) is almost usele ‘Toseeure the motor in place, the model uses a split base and thumb screw. yen though the thumb serew is comfort- able and easy to tighten, the split base system does a rather poor job of Keeping the bit consistently centered at various 1g. There is one other problem. Porter Cable just plain goofed when they de- signed the router’s sub-base. The opening. in the black plsstie sub-base is too small to accept a ¥ corner-round bit ROUTER TABLE COMPATIBILITY, To con- vert the model 675 for use on a router table, first you have to remove the “D” handle. This isjusta matter of unplugging the cord from the motor and unscrewing the “D" handle. Then plug the cord into the ‘auxiliary ewitch on the router table ‘The depth of cut and range of adjust ment provided by the model 675 is excel- lent, and since the sub-base i removed for tse on the router table, there is no restric. tion on the size of router bit, ACCESSORIES. The combination edge guide and trammel point attachment offered by Porter Cable works well — i ‘you have the patience to make all the ad- Justments they've allowed for, and can “Justify ts cost ($40.20), mmaxtra In recent vears Makita has joined the ranks with many other Japanese manu- fachurers providing quality, products. at reasonable prices. Makita has also made the decision of which model to review easy one. Only the 4 K.P. model 36018 fe within our guideines costio1s. The model 3601B hes a “D" handle base that provides good eonirot hile hand routing. The secord handles a large comfortable knob that serves doubie- daty 2s the locking knob (used to secure the motor BIT CHANGING, As on several other routers, the 3601B requires wo separate ‘wrenches to loosen the collet nat. But that’s where the sinilary ends, ‘The cast iron wrenches provided with the Makitarouter area joy touse. They're Jeng enough and hefty enough to provide a 0d grip. Unfortunately, when i comes time to use them, there's a problem: The router tends to rock on its slightly domed hed. Bat ifyou can get it to stand stil, changing bits Is relalively easy, DEPTH ADJUSTING. The system for ad- Justing the depth of cu: on the Mabita consists of an adjusting ring that's threaded into the motor housing. When the ring is turned the motor moves up or down. This system works wel, and allows depth adjustments in extremely small inerements. ‘The only veal dissvantage to this ays- tem isthat when used on the router table, tho motor ean fll out of the base when the Tosking Kneis loosened. And again, the calibrations on the threaded ring are clumsy, and all in al, inefeet BLACK AND DECKER 7614 WoopsmiTHeS ES When thedepth of eat isset, the motors held in position by a very comfortable, teasy-to-operate knob (which also serves, ‘one of the handles). Initially, we liked the ease of using this knob, but later foand its, fault: It does a rather poor job of keeping the motor (and thus the bit) centered at various depth settings. ROUTER 7ARLE CoMPATIBEITY. When the Makita is mounted to the router table, the biggest probiem is thet ite “D” handle hhas to be left dangling under the table top besauce i ie direet-wired from the moter, ani can’t be disconnected completely. Another potential problem is with the ‘metal housingt on the top of the motor, ‘Wien the router Is Inverted on the router table, this housing acts asa collection point for all the sawdust floating around. If the Makita is used on the router table, this housing must be removed and cleaned repularly to prevent overheating and pos- sible damage to the motor. ACCESSORIES. Of all the accessories we il, Makita’s were the most disap- painting, The edge guide i very basie, and they don’t even offer a trammel point. ‘Although a ‘shop made” trammel point can be used, there's really no exeuse for not offering one as an accessory. BoscH ‘The last ofthe industrial routers we chose {s manufactured by Boseh (West, Ger- many), who bought out Stanley's old power tool division a couple of years ago. ‘And to be honest, it doesn't appear that ‘any improvements were made in the pro- cess, and overall, we were quite disap- pointed. CoxTROLS, The Bosch 1% H.P. model 1403 has aD" handle base with the trigger witch located in the “D” handle. This is especially advantageous on this router be- ‘cause its starting torque is stronger than. any of the other routers we reviewed. dl Withoat the two-handed control pro. by the “D” handle system, starting sta ity would tave been a probe: BIT CHANGING. The Bosch router has several things working against it, but by. far the worst is its system for changing bits. The wrenches are the worst of any router we reviewed. Not only are they too short, but they have heads at both ends. ‘This makes it very hard to grip the short, 1 length of wrench that extends beyond But without a doubt, the biggest head- ache associated with the 1608 is that you can't stand it upside down while changing. bits, For some reasen, Bosch designed the rmotorso the power cord exits at the top of the motor housing... . the worst possible place. DEPTH ADJUSTING. The depth adjusting. system on the 1603 is the simpliest system We reviewed, but its also @ good example the edge of the base when changing bits. | ‘of when simple isn't necessarily better. To raise oF lower the bit, the motoris rotated 4s it rides on top of an angled rim on the as "The problem is that the router must be either laid on its se, or held in one hand, making itrather difficult toset the depth of cut 10 & specific setting. ‘The 1608 ako uses asplit arm assembly ‘and Wing nut to secure the motor in the ani produced rather di ‘results when it came to keepit ‘contered at varioas height settings. An- other disheartening aspect is that the motor ean fallout of thebase when it's used fon the router table. ‘ROUTER TABLE COMPATIDILITY. Wo ran into more problems trying to use the 1603 fon the router table than on any other ‘router, First, the screws holding the plas tie sub-base to the router hase are metric = making it almost impossible to find the longer versions needed to attach the router to the router table. ‘As with the Porter Cable, the “D” hhanille on the Bosch has to be removed from the base. But when it eame time to plug the cord into an auxiliary switch, *t ‘was so short that the switch had to be Toeated right next to the router — making iteifficul toget to anddefeating thesafety aspect of an auxiliary switch. ‘One the router was mounted, the prob- tems with the depth adjusting system popped up again. At its highest setting, The collet is still %" below the table sur face. Ard again, depending on the bit be- ing tsed, this Iaek of hejght can be a real problem. Finally, in defense of the Bosch motor, its heavy-duty fan pushes air at a higher ‘velocity than any of the other routers we reviewed, and should be able to ward off any flying debris that comes its way. ‘AccHSSORIES, Rosch offers a c bination edge gaide and trammel point that's similar to the Porter-Cable system, but with fewer adjustments to get in the ‘way. But for some reason, the steel rods attaching the guide tothe base are nestled ‘around the ball handle, where they're con- stantly in the way. ‘SEARS ‘Who ean resist arouter when its always sale for 50% off? That seems to be Sears’ ‘way of keeping its prices inline, and one of their routers in every shop, Combine this “onsale” approach witha retailand eatalog “distribution system that fs second to none, and it's almost impossible to resist buying Sears tools. outif their routers are worth But tofin having — even at 50% off, we decided to take a doser look at ‘Sears Best” 14 H.P. malel $-HT-1749, CONTROLS. One of the nicest things ‘about this routeris the pisiol-grip handles, which provide exeellent two-handed eon- trol while starting and operating the router, For ease of use, we'd rate them a hotch above the “D" handle atyle. BIT CHANGING, Without a doubt, the ost unique feature on this router is a spindle locking system. By engaging a locking switeh on the side of the motor housing, the spindle is locked in position, and power to the motor is disconnected. ‘This locking system eliminates the need for two wrenches to change bits. Instead, all you need isthe oe cheap stamped-steel ‘wrench provided with the router. Butinall fairness, this system of changing hitsisone of the best that’s come along. beprit aniUsTiNe, When they brought ‘out this new model a couple of years ago, Sears changed the depth adjusting eyetem from the old rack-and-pinion style, to a threaded ring system (similar to the one on the Makita). I's easy to make very small adjustments in the depth of eut, but the calibrating system is not well labeled, nor is it very accurate, Once you've adjusted the router to the depth of eat yeu want, the motor is locked inplace with athumb serew that tightens a split base. Sears was scoring big. points with us until we tried to tighten that thumb serew. Not only does the thamb serew have painfully sagged edges, the split base requiresan exeessive amount of, tightening to hold the motor in place. And to top it off, the whole system does a poor {ob of keeping the bit centered inthe base. Ifthere’sa worse, more painful, more irvi- tating system, it would iakea committee of politicians to find it. ROUTER TABLE COMPATIBILITY. The ‘Seats router can be easily mounted unvder 2 router table. (They even offer their own version.) ‘But one major problem fas popped up. ‘The fan blades on the motor have a ten- dency to break off. (This is apparently the result of a faulty design that creates a stress concentration on the blades.) ‘Although the fan erestes a fairamount of air velocity, there's a strong possibilty of Significant damage if any’ dabrie docs find its way to the opening in the motor housing. ACCESSORIES, Turning toa bright spot, Sears hes done an excellent Job of prom ‘viding accessories for their routers, The Sears multi-purpose ede guide and Jn. is a very gond system t Alpes quick and accurate adjastment Without a doubt, this is the guide (and router) we reich or when we ned 9 rou 8 cirele or cut a rabbet BLACK AND DECKER #7614 Black and Decker is the only manufacturer that has routers that fall into both the industrial and home use categories. The 1% H.P, model #7614 is from Black and 1B WoopsMITHa ® ‘and retails for only $57.09, ‘This is a relatively new router and its apparent that Black and Decker has put a lot of thought into this one. CONTROLS. The model 7614 uses two slightly modified "D” handles (with a trig- ger switeh) to provide a pistol-grip feel, ‘and exeellent two handed control while routing, BIT CHANGING. The method used to change bits on the model 7614 combines. some good old ideas with some common new problenss. First of al, the Black and Decker model 7614 uses a spindle Ioeking: system similar to the one used on older Soars routers. This system incorporates a springsloaded locking lever that engages fone of six notches in the collar nut. | Decker's “consumer” line of power tools, | small formany commonly used router bits ROUTER TADLE COMPATIOILITY. There are two majorproblems with attaching the Black and Decker 7614 to a router table, First, the serew holes do not penetrate completely through the base, so precisely sized machine serews must be used. ‘The second problem has to do with the depth of eat. Like several of the industrial routers, the 1614 was plagued by the in- ability to raise the router motor and eollet high enough for practical use when mount- ed on a router table ACCESSORIES. Black and Decker offers two separate guides for edge work and trammel point work. This in itself is drawback but they added insult to injury by making both guides awkward to use, and difficult to adjust in small increments ‘we do itso often), and the ability to mount and use the router on the router table (@ necessity in our shop). With the emphasis on these two fea- tures, we had to eliminate three routers (oth Blaek and Deeker's and the Bosch) heeause of problems when they're ‘mounted to therouter table. Thisleft three routers to choose from: the Sears, Makita and Porter Cable. Among these three, thore is one major fifferencs: cost. Ifthe ehoiceis priee-dependent, { would buy the Sears router (when it's cn sale in the $50 to $60 range). Tt works well for both hand-held and router table routing, and includes many of the best features we found on any of the routers we reviewed. ‘The Sears depth adjusting system is ‘ery good (with the notable exeeption of ‘There's little doubt in my ‘mind that just like on the old Sears routers, the serew that holds this lever in place “will eventually wiggle loose, never to be found again. ‘The wrench supplied with the 7614 is, as expected, very short and made of stamped steel. What's new, however, is that the wrench is stored in the base of the roster Gis held in placo with a spring), But for me, thisis just too close to the spindle for comfort. So 1 removed this entire assembly. DEPTH ADJUSTING. Depth adjustments on the model 7614 are made using a rack and pinion system similar to Black ard Decker's industrial model ‘The depth adjusting system i also con- nected to the metor locking lever. This lever is quick and easy to use, and very comfortable, Its only drawback is that ‘when it’ tightened, ittends to change the depth of eut setting more than any other router we reviewed. The model 7614 also did rather poor job of keeping the bit centered at cifferent height settings. And just like the industrial 3810, the opening in the sub-base on the 7614 is too Although the design of the 7614 router is innovative, we were very disappointed with their accessories, our cHoIces After rating the features on each of these six routers, there's still one question to answer: Which router do we recommend? ‘The rating system we used revealed two routers that are a step ahead of the others the Makita 33018 and the Sears GHT- 1749, But to confirm this outeome, we de- cided to spend a little time with all six routers to get a feel for them under shop ‘As we used them in the shop, we all agreed that two features carry the most weight: the ease of changing bits (heeause the thumb serew), and the Bao ‘maxia] eosen ep) ; es MARTA] PREC [gettasa] SAiE)] spindle locking system asea : ne N00 SHTIZAP|_ 1814 fo changing bis is the best 2 a4 (they would only provide a ddecent-sized rene). Even Sel aos 4 | with its faults, the Sears is dificult to pase up, 3 1 3 | whenit’s on sale. If you're wiling to spend 1 Silat 1 | about $150 for a router, 1 would definitely step up to 9 | 13 7 13} the Makita 36018. Again, the Makita isnt without its faults. When it's mounted en the router tuble, the handle has to be detached and left dangling, or a trough has to be routed ‘ut to accommodate it. But over the long. haul, the industrial quality of the Makita should outlast the Sears several times To be fair, the Porter Cable model 675 is a close second in this price range. It's easier to mountto the router tablethan the Makita a600B, hut we have totip the scales in Makita’s favor because it’s constantly a hassle to change bits on the Portor Cable model 675, ‘The bottom line ic thi: Ifyou want only one, high-quality router for both the router rlcheld use, the Makita B501B is the ore T'é buy. ROUTER COMPARISON CHART rons | Nan 7 le od 14H Wane Vs AP 26 |e % % Eee ~ i « Ye ne ae ve 2 prone 2 prone 2 pr 2 prone $8.00 $1750] Combination | __ $1249 NA $9.45 $14.99 $13.00 $196.00 $179.00, $119.99, $57.99 315555. | $160.30 35099 53198 WoopsmiTH 19Drawer Construction DOVETAIL TONGUE AND GROOVE Building a drawer is no easy matter. Not only do youhave to construct it sot hangs toyether under repeated use, but it has to Fit the opening-in the cabinet, and it has to be mounted so it slides in and out easily, ‘The problem is that if only one of these requirements isn’t met, the drawer loses its usefulness. Yet, ial the requirements are met, nobody willevennotie it beeause the drawer simply dees what it's supposed todo, (Little thanks for so mach effort.) DOVETAIL TONGUE AND GROOVE ‘The key to building any drawer ts the jomery. If the joints are strong, the ‘drawer will stay together under repeated. use, One of the best joints for building a ‘raver is a dovetail joint, But it'snot the only one. ‘The drawers for the desk and the caddy ‘are corstrusted with a variation ofa dove= tail. Instead of making dovetail yins and tails, the joint wo used on those drawers is dovetail tongue and groove. The dovetail shape on the tongue and groove provides ‘good mechanical (interlocking) strength, but its much easier to cut than a “aormal"” dovetail joint. However, there are two limitations when using a dovetail tongue and groove. Fist, the drawer’s sides must be set ins" to¥ from the edgesof the drawer front to, allow room for the dovetail groove, as ‘town in Fig. 1. The problem here is that the dovetail groove must be positioned far enough from the outside edge of the ‘drawer front so that the outside shouller of the groove doesn't split out. ‘This is actually an advantage when using metal drawer slides to mount the drawer because the drawer’ sides have to set in anyway to allow space for the slides. ‘The second requirement with this joint hhas to do with the tools needed to eut the dovetail shape on the tongue and the groove. To do this, you need a dovetail ‘a router table that hhas a fence to guide the workpie (We naturally like the Woodsmith router table. If you'd like plans for ballding. this table, send $1 to Woodsmith, 2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines,1A 90312.) THE DRAWER FRONT But before the joints can be eut, each piece he drawer has to be cat to the proper sizeto fit the openingin the eabinet. [start by cutting the drawer front to size. (in what follows, Um using the dimensions of the small recessed drawer on the caddy, shown on page 12, as an example. T/CUT DRAWER FRONT TO SIZE. To get the measurements for the drawer front, ‘measure the opening in the eabinet. ‘The drawer front should be aut to length so it’s a total of M4 less thanthe width of the opening. (This allows Yis" on both sides for clearance.) "As for the height ofthe drawer front, i's bestto trim itso it's a total of 4" to Met Tess thanthe height of the opening. (Shop Note: ‘The height of the drawer front ean be ‘trimmed a litle more than the length be- cause the wood will expandicontract more in this direetion with seasonal changes in humidity), Tfmore than onedrawer is going tofit in the cabinet opening (ason the caddy), size the drawer fronts so there's at least 1° between each one, ‘THE DRAWER SIDES After the drawer fronts are cut, the “raver sides can be cut to size. Here you hayetwochoices, The height of the drawer WERONT MEN SOR TeAdSH wnt mont The dovetail groove must be pus tioned far enough from the edge ofthe draiver front so the ouside shoulder ofthe (groove doesn’t split ont. © Tosut te dovetail grooves, place a i Masonite fase top on the router table. Then cut groove so drawer side is et in | from the edge of drawer front, 3 Slenp ast block onthe fence'o eu the stopped groovein the drawer front Use.a piece of scrap plywood to guide the workpiece through ue dovetail bt 20 WoopsMiTHsides ean either be the same height as the ‘drawer front, or trimmed down a little When I'm using a dovetail tongue and groove, [like to trim down the height of the sides, and use @ sloped dovetail srvove. This Keeps the joint from showing ‘on the top edge of the drawer front, 2) CUT DEAWER SIDES TO WIDTH. For mast drawers T use ¥thick stock for the sides (@nd the back). In the case of the drawerin the eaddy, I ripped this stock to width s0 the sides are 44" narrower than the height of the drawer front. 3) CUT SIDES TO LENGTH. After the ddrawersides are ripped to width, they can beeut to length. Thetfinal length is deter- mined by four mesurements: the total depth of the cabinet (this is 157 in the caddy), less the thickness of the drawer front (240), fess a Ye allowance between the back of the drawer and the hack of the cabinet, plus the length of the dovetail tongue on the front elge ("In the case of the drawer on the caddy, the drawer is also recessed %" inio the cabinet, s0 1 subtracted an additional "to get the final length of the sides. 4) THE DRAWER BACK. As forthe drawer back, itshould be"eut to fit” after the sides are Joined tothe font, But wel got toit later. LAYING OUT THE JOINTS After the drawer's front and sides are cat tosize, the position ofthe dovetail grooves can be laid out on the drawer front. #) POSITION GROOVES. In order to de- termine the position of these grooves, you have to jump ahead a litle to how the ‘dovetail fongue is cut. The tongue is eut by taking alternate passes onboth fees ofthe sides, refer to Fig. 5. This means the ‘tongue will be centered on the thickness of the side pieses. Thus, the groove on the drawerfront must be positioned to account fora centered tongue. ‘On the drawer for the eaddly, I decided to position the drawer side so the outside face was set in JA" from the edge of the drawer front, see Fig. 2, Ifthe drawer side is set in 4, and the tongue is contored on S-thiok stock, then the groove must be centered %' from the ‘edge of the drawer front, seo Fig 2. ROUT THE DOVETAIL GROOVES In order to set up the router table toeut a dovetail groove, i's Helpful to have the ‘opening in the router table (for the bit) as ‘small as possible to provide the most supe rt for the workpiece. (This is helpful later when the dovetail tongues are cut.) On the Woodsmith router table 1 re- duced the sizeof the opening by adding a false top (a piece of Ye’ Masonite) with a2” hhole in it for the bit, see Fig. 2. (The Masonite shoald extend under the router table's fence so when the fence istightened down, it will hold the false top in place.) 8) CHOICE OF BITS, If the drawer's sides fare more than thie, Tuse a "dovetail bit to cut the grooves. Unfortunately, dovecail bits must be set at fll depth to eut the grooves because the shape does not allow fur raising it in inere= ‘ments, But a falllepth eut with a % bit ‘ean put quite a strain on the router. ‘To get around this problem, | clear out ‘most of the groove by making a ass with a 1" straight bit first. Then I switeh to the Ye dovetail it (set to full height) to the dovetail-shaped groove If the sides are 4" thick (as in the drawer on the caddy), Luse aM dovetail bit to cut the grooves. This bit is small ‘enough 0 it can be set to full height to eut the groove in one pass ADIUST PENCE. Next, adjust the fence so the bit is centered Ye from the fence. (The position of the groove mentioned above.) Since it’s difficult to judge the center of a dovetal bit, I temporary re- place it with a V-roove bit and use the point of the “V” to postion the fenee. ‘When the fence is positioned, put the dovetail bit inand et its height (for the ‘raver on the caddy), and makea trial cut ‘on & pieee of serap. Then to check the position of the groove, hold the drawer side so it's centered over the groove and see ifthe outsile face ofthe drawer sie is 4 from the edge of the drawer font (see detail in Fig. 2). #) CLAMP STOPS IN PLACE, After the fence is set ap in the right position, there's one more step. As mentioned above, I trimmed down the height of the draver's sesso they're YF less than the drawer front, This means the sreoves (for mounting the sides) must be stepped 76 from the top of the drawer front. However, there is one other eon- sideration here. I stopped the dovetail srooves another 1 less than that. so no rt of the groove shows above the top {de of drawerside. Thisis done by clamp ing-astop block tothe fence of the router {ableso the bleck is 294" trom the center of the dovetal bit, wee Fig. 3 4) HOUT GROOVES IN DRAWER FRONT. Finally, the router table ia set up to rout the grooves, Before eitting the “real” drawer front, makethecuts na trial piece to get the feel of what's going on. Place the en of the rial pieee aysinst the fence and tse a pieoe of scrap plywood particle board to guide it through the router bituntilthe kading edge ofthe trial Hece touches the stop, see Fig. 3. Then Carefilly pull it backwards, out of the dovetail bt. ‘When one groove is ext, clamp the stop tothatier endothe fence and make the secon eut, see Fig. 4 (Noteswhen ma thisea, the draverfronts being edn the nig Uinwction. ‘The rotation of the bit il tend to push the workpiece away from the fence, 20 a frm grip is needed.) Tf both groores deck out on the secap, go bead en the "real" drawer front. (Shop Note: It's best sand the inside fice ofthe drawer front beforecutting the grooves. If the sanding is done later, it will, n effect, alter the depth ofthe dovetail groove.) 10) ROUT GROVES FoR BACK. Before changing this set-upon the routertable, go shea and eut the dovetail grooves for the Grawer's back. Here, forthe sake of son- ‘venience, Tse the same settingras om the raver front. Thats, the groove is set in "Bin Stout ‘ut once aa 4 Tocut the stopped groove on the other ‘end, the drawer front must be fed i the*wrang” direction. Hold it firmly asi’s pushed through the bit. To cut the dovetail tongue, take light passes on both foves of the drawer side, Then move the fence aivay from the Dit to encak up thiekneaa of tongue. 6 Liston should fi thegrooe witha Loose friction fit. When it fits cor rectly, tri the length of the tongue to fit the length of the stopped groove. WoopsMiTH 214¢ from the end of the side piese. How- ever, there's no need for the stop blocks because the grooves are cut all the way through (from edge to edge). CUT THE TONGUES After both sets of grooves are cut, the tongues ean be cut on the front ends ofthe ‘drawer sides. 11) SET-UP FOK TONGUES. To cut the tongues, leave the bit set at, the same height, and adjust the fence so the dovetail ‘it protrudes only slightly beyond the face ‘of the fence, see Fig. 5. ‘Then make a trial cut in apiece of sera that’s exartly the same thiekness as the “real” side pieees, Hold the serap against the fence and make a eut on one face, see Fig. 5. Then flip it around and make a cut ‘nthe other face. ‘At this point, the tongue should be too thick to fit in the groove. Move the fence Just a smidgen farther away from the ‘outer bit, and make another pass on both faces, (Make very small adjustments on the fence each time. Each adjustment will remove deuble the amount of material be- cause cuts are made on both faces.) ‘When I get close to the right adjust ment, but the tongue is stil a little too tight, I stop and start cutting the “real” have room to sneak up on the eut during the final passes on the tongue. 12) THE RIGHT FT, The tongue should fit the groove with a loose frietion fit. That is, it shouldnt be so tight that it has to be Hammered into the groove. Instead, it shoul be just loose enough so when the tongue absorbs some of the moisture from the gue, it has some room to expand. ‘When the tongue is eat with this kind of fit, it may seem a little too loose — the drawer side may wag aroundin the groove a little, But that’s okay. When the tongue ‘expands from the give, it wil tighten ap in the groove, 12) TRIM TONGUES. Onee the tongues fit properly, thoy atill have to be trimmed in Fength so they it the length of the stopped ‘grooves, sce Fig. 6. [use a chisel to pare | off enaugh of the dovetsil tongue so the bottom of the drawer side is flush with the bottom of the drawer front, CUT BACK TO SIZE After the tongues are cut in the side pieces, the final measurements can be made for the drawer's back. 1 cor sack. Push the sides into place In the grooves in the drawer front. ‘Then ‘measure the distance between the inside faces of the draver sides, near the drawer front, see Fig. 7. Adil the depth ofthe two dovetail grooves (a total of ¥') and eut a piece for the back to this length. Fornow, cut the tack to with to match the width of the drawer sides. Then cut davetsil tongues on hoth ends, once again, ‘sneaking up on the fit. GROOVES FOR BOTIOM After the back is cut, you also need ‘grooves in the drawer font and sides to Hild the bottom in place. 15) GROOVESIN DRAWER FRONT, [use the roiter table to eut the grooves for the bottom. Mount a" straight bit in the router and adjust the height so the bit makes a. '-deep cut, Then adiust, the fence so it’s from the edge of the bit, ‘The grocve in the drawer front must be stoppall at the two dovetail grooves (or eke it will showon the edges ofthe drawer front) To do this, place the bottom ede of the dawer front against the force, and hold the left end up over the bit, see Fig. 8. ‘Then slowly lower the drawer front 20 the bit engages right on the dovetail iroove. Slowly feed! the drawer front through the bit to make the groove along the bottom edge, When you feel it break through the second dovetail groove, stop and lif the drawer front off of the bit, 16) GROOVES IN SIDES AND BACK. With the sameset-upon the roater able, cutthe ‘erooves along the bottom eda of the sides ‘and the back. There's noneed to stop these {grooves — make the cut along, the entire length of the sides and back. 17) RUNNER GRooVES. If the drawer is going to be mounted to the eabinet with | wooden runners (as were the drawers on. the caddy), it’s best to eut the grooves for | the rumers in the outsiie faces of the drawer aides before final assembly. 18) TRIM BACK TO WibTH. Because of the inter-lorking natare of the dovetail tongue and groove joints, the drawer cannot be assembled with the bottom in place. In- stead, the drawer's back has to be trimmed down so the bottom can be inserted later. Earlier when Icut the back to size, Teat itto thesame widthas thesides, and also cut the groove for the bottom, This w done sothe groove could be used asa guide to trim the back to final width. Cut right along the top edge of this groove so the back rests directly on the drawer bottom, see Fig. 9. FINAL ASSEMBLY [At this point ll four sides of the drawer are eut and ready for assembly. '») CUT HOrTON TO siz. As mentioned above, the bottom has to be inserted after the rest ofthe draver is assembled. How ver, ifthe lottom is eut to fit tight in the rvoves in the dravwer's sides, it can be Inserted just before the clamps are tight- ‘ened to help hold the drawer square. ‘One other thing about the drawer bot= tom. I used 4" Masonite for the drawer hhottoms because it fts snugly in the Wi" grooves. Although cal-vencer plywood may have looked nieer, i's actually a ite less than ¥ thick, which means it will rattle arounil in the grooves ‘2) ASSEMBLY. To assemble the drawer, ab a litle glue long the dovetail tongues ‘onthe dravver sides and push them into the grooves in the drawer front, Then gue the drawer back in place, Finally, put some iluein the grooves forthe pottomand side ivin pace, Glamp the drawer together with pipe clamps, checking for square as the clamos are tightened, Ater the glue is dry, put a Tittle wax in the runner grooves and it's ready to moant in the eabinet. 712,324 the measurement for the Adraiver's tack, assemble the sides and ‘front, Measure dislance between the sides ‘and eid the depth of the two grovves, G Zi the gromie for the drawer bot tom, lower the drawer front right over the dovetail groove. Then rou! until the bit breaks trough the second groove. Before assembly, cut 1" groove for drower's bottom and 4" groovefor the 9 runner in drawers sides. Then trim back so i rests on the draicer bottom. a2 WoopsMITHTalking Shop AN OPEN FORUM FOR COMMENTS AND QUESTIONS It fappens every year, ‘long about De- cember or January. We got quite a few letters from readers asking why their proj- ‘ects are cracking and splitting. ‘The problem is moisture. . . or the lacs of it, And even though wood is “dead,” it's constantly adjusting to the amount of ‘moisture (humidity) im the surrounding ‘This past winter, the entire natin ox. perieneed a quick and very rasty cold ‘nap. Asthis cold air filtors into yourhouse and is warmed (at no small expense), its relative humidity drops. (Cold air holds Jess moisture than the same volume of warm alr.) ‘This causes problems with anything made of wood. As the humidity in the air changes, the wood absorbs or releases ‘moisture which, in turn, eauses it to expand or contract . .. sometimes a lot ‘more than you'd expec. Although wood changes dimensions, it doesn't doit consistently. Wood mores to a much greater extent across the grain (in ‘width) than with the grain (in length). ‘This fact was dramatically enastod for us Justa couple of weeks go, Remember the ‘Trestle Table shown on the cover of Wood smith No. 231 ‘The top ofthat tableis made of soli oak boards glued up toa width of 80°. On both ends of the top are esp boards that run perpendicular to the grain of the top, ‘When we built that table top, the eaps were trimmed and sanded in length to match the exact width of the main body, ‘That was during the summer when the humidity was high. ‘This winter Ted (our Design Director) took that table home right about the time the cold snap hit. The air in his house was ‘quite dry, and the table top began to con- tract — even though it's finished with three costs of polyurethane, ‘The photo abovoshows how tho width of @erctasiocopcontmcted os much grater ‘extent than the length of the end cap, There's a 4’ variation on exch side, mak ing a total ce of MC, WoopsMiTH. “There's no way to stop this movement. All you can do is allow for itn the design and construction of any project. Inthecase of the trestle table, the end eap was de- signed to allow for this movement. If it hadn't been, the top would have split If you would like to know more about wood movement, Thighly recommend the book Undersianding Wood, by Bruce Hoadley. (It ean be ordered from: The ‘Taunton Press, 52 Church Hill Road, Box 255, Newtown, CT 06470, $20.00.) Th this book, Hoadley includes all kinds of charts and formulas showing direct comparisons between temperature, rela- tive humidity, pereentage of moisture in the wood, and the combined effect these factors have on expansion ard contraetion of different species of wood. Although this information tends to be a bit technical, it’s very understandable — snd well worth reading. And after spend- ing an evening or two with this book, Hoadly'sunderstanding of vod begins to rub off. SMOKING RAGS? You made it clear in your article on oil finishes (Woodsmith No. 30), that oit and cil/resin combinations “ary” (solidify) by aridation anal polynerization. Tesimportait tobe aware that this dry- ing process also generates some heat —not enough for anyone to sense on a coated surface, but enough to ecuse “spoxtancous combustion” in crumpled up rags satu- rated with these finishes, In my own workshop, I make sure that all the rags used for oil stains and clear wipe-on finishes are opened xp when they're let to dry, rather than allowing them to remain all crumpled up. An even safer practice is to put them in a bucket and submerge them in water until is con reniewt to throw them away. Fora long time, I considered this pre- caution about dispoxal of drying oit- soaked rags as just another sinicky wirn- ing. Then several years ago, I witnessed a ile of crumpled up tung oil soaked rags ignite as if someone had touched a match tothem. Although it'sless likely toveeurin a cool basement workroom in the winter than in ‘hot garage in July, isnot inporsible. So why take chances? Sidney Lauren Executive Director Coating Research Group Cleveland, Ohio KING QUESTIONS Tce purchased a King brand S-1 Japanese finishing stone that's mounted on a wooden base. I'm wondering if I immerse the stone and tase completely in wnier, will the base come unglated from the stone? L. E. Montgomery San Antonio, Teoas All King brand water stones ean be kept in water constantly without damaging the stone itself: However, when the stone is, ‘mounted to wooden base, the base itself should not be immersed, ‘The problem isn’t with the glue holding the stone to the base, i's just that the ‘wooden base, like any woolen object, shouldi’t be kept constantly in water. We keep our water stones upside-down in a closed container with only a ¥f or so of the | stone in water. This Keeps the stone aa rated, yet prevents the base from getting wot There’s another problem with soaking Jepancee water stones, If they dry out afler every use, salt deposits (left whe the water evaporates) can be a problem One answeris tokeep thestonesina closed container to prevent them from drying out. Another option is to use distilled ‘water, because it eontainsno minerals that an build up on the surface ofthe stone. ‘Speaking of Japanese water stones, the Anpentix to the 1984 Garrett Wade eat Jog (16 Ave. ofthe Americas, New York, NY. 10013) lists to. new combination ‘Japanese water stones, ‘The first is 2 250/1000 grit combination stone ($10.50); the second stone combines 1000/6000 grits ($14.85). This second com. bination is almost identical to the two indie villual stones we recommend in Wood. smith No, 24). At only $15, this 1000/6000 ‘combination stone produces the best edge for the money we've seen. According to Garrett Wade, both stones | ‘can be kept constantly immersed in water without the two halves separating. 23Sources WOODWORKING CLUBS The list of woodworking clubs continues to grow. Here are the latest additions, ‘TH COASTAL WOODCRAFTERS GUILD. This club was formed about eight months ago in Savanneh, Georgia, and already has 80 active members. The groap sometimes meets in members’ shops — something President Wayne Welch says is leaming. experience in kselt For more information contact Wayne at_ 13809 Chesterfield Drive, Savannah, GA $1419 or call 912- 125-1880, SNIKE RIVER WOODCARVERS CLUB, Ross Darnell says this cub got started about a year ago in Idaho Falls, Idaho. According: to Ross, there's alt of exellent talent in the group already. If you'd like more in- formation, write to Ross Damell, Route 3, Box 260, Idaho Falls, ID 83401 or call 208- 520.8508, THe SawpUsTERS. From Dave Cook comes word of the founding of « wood working dub in Northwest lows (in and around Sa: and Buena Vista counties)The Sawdusters' membership is around 3 and they invite any and all 0 attend. Dave says he'd lke to hear from other clubs about ideas for programs and speakers. If you're interested in joining, er if you have some information to pass along, eontaet Dave Cook, RR 1, Nemaha, TA 567 or call 712-636-4528, NEW NAMES. In the last issue of Wood smith we reported about the formation of {wo woodworking clubs whieh were ronew they hadr't had time to get themselves ame yet. That situation has been rect fied this time around and we're glal to introduce you to: HAWKEYE WOODCRAFTERS is the name the fellows in Burlington, IA, gave their club. For more information contact Dwight Mulch, President, 2536 S. Main, Burlington, IA 52601 WooDeHUCKS WoODWORKNG CLR is the name they settled on in the Portland- Vancouver area. Don M. Sehie is the per- son to contact at 6220 North Basin Ave- tue, Portland, OR 97217. Our offer to help your woodworkng club recruit members isastanding one. Ifyou'd like us to mentin your eub nan upeorsing issue of Woodsmith, send the information (Gncluing the name of the person a pros- Pective member should contact) to Steve Krohner, Assistant Editor. INISHING PRODUCTS We finished the projects in this issue with penetrating ol finishes. ‘Wateo Danish Oil finishes are generally available st woodworking stores, uniin- ished furniture stores, paint and hardware stores. Butifyou can't locate a dealer near ‘You, write or call: Watco-Dennis Cor- poration, 1956 2nd Street, Santa Monica, CA. 90404; 213-870-4781. Sutherland Welles products, on the other hand, are distributed only by Gar- Fett Wade, 161 Avenue of the Americas, ‘New York, NY 10013; Tel: 1-800-221-2042 (AK, HI, and NY call 212-907-1757). Or ‘you can order direstly from the manu- fasturer: Sutherland! Welles, Lid, 403 | ‘Weaver Street, Carboro, NC 27510; Tel: 919-967-1972. FINISHING TH “conresr’ | While Iwas working onthe article ono finishes in Woodsmith No, 30 (and thinking tout the one that’s planned for tho next {issue} it oreurred tome tat the seerets of ‘wood finishing are like the secrets of ‘woodworking, ‘The really goed ideas are those Ble things, often developed by ac- cident, that make your friends say, “Why. ditt think of ta Over the years, we've shared a lot of woodworking tips on the Tips ant Tesh- niques page, bit Til admit to not paying Gute as mich attention to finishing ips as taybe I should have So, with just a little bit of fear about setting sweinped with mal, here'san off cial invitation to share your favorite wood. finishing tps wth othor Woodemith road ‘ers —and maybe even make alittle money atthe same ms, The rules of this Fishing tps “contest” are simple: 1, Send all entries to Mike Scott, As- sistant Editor. Mike “volunteered to read, sort and evaluate all the finishing tiys that come th. 2. We'll pay s minimum of $10 for tips wwe publshy and if the idea fs unuatal, oF works especially well, or makes us say, “Why didn’t we thinkof that?” we will goto. 325 or higher. In the ease of duplicate suggestions, well tse the ones with the earliest post. marks, 4. Be as complato as you can in oxplain- {ng your tip. Ifyou mix your own nish or tain, be specific sbout brand names, ‘quantities, and mixinginsiructions, Tellus Allwell need o know te duplicate your Fecipe in our shop, Ifyou havea particular vway_you apply the nish, deserbe it in detail or incade a drawing or photo (that doesn't have to be returned) to help ex= pin it Every aspect of wood finishing sealing, filing, staining, penetrating fin- ishes, surface applications — is fair game for this “contest.” But keep in mind that were looking forthe unique tips, Mixing {Your own wood filler out of sswdust and amish almost common knowledge, and {is rot likely to be published. 6 There's no formal deadline for this “eontest.” And, finally, well print as many of Your tips as we ean, GLUING DovETalL ROUTER Bit ‘The dovetail router bit shown en the right inthe drawing below is oneofa kind. Bosch Power Tool Corparation manufactures this special dovetail bit with alittleextra fate that ereates an expansion slot for excess elu, As fat aa welve been able to determina, Bosch isthe only manufacturer that makes ‘dovetail bit with this profilo, and they're ‘only available in high speed Steel (not as carbide tipped) Every other dovetail bit ereates.a profile ‘as shown on the left in the drawing. So, what's the big deal? We like to use the Bosch bit when mak- ing dovetail tongue and groove joints be- cause normally the sharp corners of this Joint fit so tight that even a little bit of ‘sawdust in the groove makes assembling the joint difficult at best. ‘This special Bosch bit solves that problem by erestinga litte extra space, However, when routing “normal” dove- tail joints (Gecket and pin) where “every- thing shows” on the sie ofthe drawer, we still use a rogular bit (ike the one on the Jeftin the drawing). ‘The Bosch bits come in two sizes — #85182, %" ($1.65) and #85135, Ye ($7.40). if you want to locate a Bosch dis- tritutor near you, cal or write Bosch cor- porate headquarters, P.O, Box 2217, Highway 55 West, New Bern, NC 28561; or call $19-633-4158, The Bosch customer service department will give yoa thename ‘of a dealer near you. 24 WoopsMITH