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    6 views24 pages

    Woodsmith 019

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    zemihirayane

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    of 24
    NOTES FROM THE SHOP Sawdust ‘Sancy J. Baurn ‘Connie L. Lowe ‘Adolph E. Peschke WOODSMITH (ISSN 0164-4114) s published bimonthly (January, March, May, July, Sop: tember, November) by Woodsmith Publishing ‘Co,.2200 Grand Ave . Des Moines. iowa 50312. WOODEAETH ie a replred tae oft Woodsmith Puotsing Co. “Copyright 1982 by Woodsmith Publishing Co. Al Rights Reserved, Subscriptions: One year (6 issues) $10, Two ‘years (12 ssues) $18. Single copy pice, $2.50 (Canada anc Foreign: add $2 per year) ‘Change Of Address: Please be sure to include Doth your olf and new adress and a mailing label fom a recent v0. Postmaster: Send change of addiess notce, Form 3578, i Woedsmrith Publishing Co..2200 Grand Ave., Dos Noines, lowa 50312. ABOUT THIS ISSUE, Two years ago we de- ed an entire issue of Woodamith tomor- tise and tenon joinery. At the time I was somewhat hesitant to have only one sub- Ject in an issue, But now we're at it again. ‘This time with dovetail realize that a lot of woodworkers tend to avoid this joint. [ think that’s because dovetail joinery also has that image of be- ing reserved for only an elite group of master T understand that feeling, But 1 also know the feeling of being in the shop, all alone, working quietly with hand tools, and cutting a joint that’s a bit of a chal lenge. True, it takes concentration, but it must be relaxed concentration. Being thoroughly involved in your work, yet calm and relaxed . . . and havinga bundle of fun doing it. I's rewarding work. COFFEE TABLE. My favorite project in this issue is the Contemporary Coffee Table. It looks co simple. Just a top, two sides, and three drawers. But simpl In fact, it requires a certain measure of courage to undertake this project. T wish I could take credit fOr designing and building it, but I cant. Ted Kralicek (our Art Director) is the one who had the patience and the guts required to cut all those dovetails. ‘Ted might get mad at me for what I'm about to say, but... before building this table, Ted made only three practice runs at cutting dovetaile. The first two were com- plete disasters. By the third try he was feting pretty guol sohe decided tego for broke on this table. ‘The best part of this story is the tools he used. We were down at a local store that sells woodworking toole. The store man STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP. MA sage handled us a mangled Japanese dave- tall saw (lf the teeth were missing). The saw had been purchased and mangled by an irate eustomer who proclaimed, “The dam thing doesnt work." “Ted used the saw om his third practice ran, and produced a set of perfectly matched dovetails Ifthere's a leson here, Tguess i's that ifyou want to dosomething all you have to dois doit. PUBLISHES STATEMENT Every year in the January issue we're required by the Post Office to run the statement shown below. Although Itry not tothinkof Wood ‘smith in terms of the number of people sabserbing, it's fun to see the growth. ‘We've almost tripled our cizeulation in year. But mare important, we've Cbubil dhe numberof pages in each asus. ‘Ana I'd like tothinkethat we've made some Prins hag joined ws to help with o the mail and getting everyone's sub- seriptions entered in our eompater. ‘Cheryl Scott has taken on the challenge ‘ofkeeping the computerin line. Cheryl wil also be helping out with alot of the admin istrative functions She's also volunteered to correct my spelling. INDEX OF CONTENTS I'd like to thane Chris Kezakiewicz for making possible the Index of Contents inthis issue. Chris (one of our subscribers in Now Jersey) took: it Upon herself to get this project starved. INDER. We've had numerous requests for a three-ring binder to hold all the back. issues of Woodsmith. It's finally here! See the special offer on the back page. [NEXT MAILING: Mare, 1982. \AGEMENT AND CIRCULATION (Reroute, tl uber met he prot mae fal st Wn ecg eer Nene (Gove wel ew and tue erin ‘ent so coer us ‘Taal am EP ar aha pl pos rin den epltn oes reeeeee ‘ohtioe Sefag yall ware preming mote "ts tg tte mane ag am 11 Tew a ho ements ade Eft ae ar edited) Der 8 Pa, Paar 2 WoopsMiTH ‘CUSTOM MADE DOWELS During the process of making repro- ductions of tum-of-the-centary fretworks, discovered Inceded several 2’ white osk dowels for spindlea. After trying several ‘methods to make my’ own ‘custom made’ dowels (without much success), 1 finally ‘ame up withthe folowing set-up using my router and electric dil, ‘As shown inthe diggram, the basic st- up consiats of three blocks attached to a fence, which in turn isbolted tothe base of porlabie router. Before gluing the blocks to the fence, I dried a is" hole in one biock, and holes in the ther two. ‘The infeed block (with the %e" hole) is sued 1% from the end of the fence. The setteod block (1 hol) i ped ren the first block. These two blocks support the square blanks as they pass by the 14° Straight router bit. The third block (also ‘with a 14° hole) supports the end of the dowel to prevent whipping. To attach the fenee to the base of the router, I drilled one hole in the fence the exact size of a No. 1092, 11%" pan head bolt. The other hole was drilled twice, form- ing @ slot to allow for fine adjustments. ‘To make the dowels, I cut a “blank” ¥" ‘square, The end of the blank is pointed to help guide it into the outfeed hole. The blanks then chucked ina portable drill and slowly advanced past the router bit. usually make the dowels a little over- sized and sand them to their finish size. Lloyd R. Dickinson Glendale, California Atfiret, I 0a litle skeptical about Mr. Dickinson's dowel-making jig, but we de- ied to ud tand try tod in the shop. ‘After trying the jig, eos amazed how wel _ Tips & Techniques it works. We found thatthe tighter the dowel fits into the outfeed holes ofthe last two blocks, the better finish you'l get. Any sloppiness here will cause an uneven doncel (a sort of ‘spiral effect). Thesize ofthe finished devel can be adjusted by moving the fence. An easy way ta come close to an exact fi isto sight through the infeed (7") hole in the first Block and adjust the fence so the bit lines up with the edge of the hole in the cutfeed (second) block. ‘One problem we had wos trying to insert the Yc square blank into the 7s round hole of the frat block. It docan'¢ fit. Then ave tried inserting the blank into the Ze hole ax the drill was running. Although Jour corners were worn down os the blank ‘wos pushed into the hole. We also ward Hard Maple for the jig to help eliminate ‘wear on the block. — S.K. DRILL PRESS TABLE SUPPORT In our cabinet shop, we use a counter. ‘weight on our drill press to take the strain off raising and lowering the table. An old window weight (acylindrical chunk of lead) table when we adjust the height. And it docen't cost $75 like some models do. We attach a wire to an old window ‘weight and slip it down the hollow support shaft of the drillpress. The wire is then run throagh a window weight pulley and ccn- nected to the table. The pulley is mounted toa small piece of wood which rests on the top of the hollow column and is positioned so the weight hangs free in the column, ‘The wire runs down the front of the sup- ‘ort column and is bolted to the table near the column. Dificrent size weights are available so ‘you can size them to the weight of the table. With the proper amount of weight, ‘the height ofthe table can be adjusted with 4 touch of the fingers. Ray Stuart Ray's Cabinet Shop Ankeny, lowe CUTTING CIRCULAR TABLE TOPS 1 solved the problem of cutting a cireular table top out ofa square blank of glued-up_ lumber by using a router and a tramme! point attachment. T purchased two 96" long steel reds from a local hardware store to replace the rods ‘that came with the trammel point attaeh- ment kit. They're inserted between the tramme! point and the router. ‘Then I drilled « hole in the center of the ‘bottom of the table top for the trammel ‘point topivot. Next I adjusted the distance between the trammel point and the router bit so that It would cut a 38° diameter rele. The table top is then eutby lowering the bit in Va" increments for each pass. Frank J. Romeo Mahapac, New York ELUPSE LAYOUT When Ieut an ellipse, [use a steel square todetermine how to draw the elipse to fit the finish dimensions I need. The width of the ellipse I need, marked AB, is laid out onone leg of a steel square, and the length of the ellipse (BC) is then laid out as shown. ‘The distance between the two focal points is found by measuring the distance between points A and C. To find the length ofthe tring, add thedistanee between AC 0.C. Carlson ‘Scottsdale, Arizona ‘SEND IN YOUR IDEAS We invite you to share your woodwerking tps suited becomes the property of Woodsmit ubishing Co. Unon payment. you give Wood- {mith the night to uso tho material n ary manner {or as long as we wish. It your idea involves & drawing or photo to ‘xplain it, do your beet and, f neceeeary, well ‘make a new drawing, or buié the project oF fy and photograph i. (Any drawings or polos sub- mitted cannot be returned.) ‘Send your kieas to: Weodsmith, Tips 8 Tech- sigue, 2200 Grand hv. Das Manes, twa 50a WoopsMiTH Dovetails: The Tools THE RIGHT TOOLS MAKE ALL THE DIFFERENCE ‘You really car't talk about dovetails (or even begin to ut them) without getting over two obstacles: fear and joy. The first obstacle (fear) raises its ugly head just ‘when you've taken saw and chisel in hand. It's the moment of truth. And now you actually have to eut this joint that's been a hallmark of excellence fer centuries... .no small undertaking. ‘Then after cutting one, or two, or a dozen dovetails, it gets in your blood. ‘There's the thril of feeling the Joint go together, of seeing the ‘near perfection of every joint line, of knowing every saw cut Was made right on the money, and knowing that, at last, you have joined the ranks of the master craftsmen, Don’ lt it get to your head. 1 ‘think the real satisfaction in ceutting dovetails is the actual doing —not the result. Yes, it ‘rue that a dovetail isa beautiful Joint, 2 mark of craftsmanship. ‘And indeod, itis a strong joint nice for drawers and special applications of case work. But the thing I like most about dovetails is the actual ceutting. So many things in our lives are done at breakneck Do it. Get it done. And jen move on to the next task. Not 0 with dovetails. This is hhandwork, done the old-fashioned way. It takes concentration. Yet you must be calm and relaxed to get the job done. It's not a task to be undertaken atera hectic day at ‘work. It should bedone when there's time. Hopefully a quiet time when you can get absorbed in your work. That's wood- ‘working at its finest. Granted there are ways to speed up the process. Many of the initial cuts can be made on a table saw or hand saw. But ‘wihy? Dovetaile, when done with concon- ‘tration and thought, produce more than a \eeedworking jit. The resis personal satiafaction. T almost forgot the third obstacle: the tendeney to become long-winded. romantic, and almost poetic about doveiails, So, ought to come back downto earth and get on withthe details of ccatting a dovetail joint. ‘Since I've embraced this rather roman- tie (translated, that means slow) approach to cutting dovetails, I'd like to mention some of the tools used to undertake this Indeed, the proper tools and a ‘comfortable environment make all the difference in the world. Although dovetails can be cut almost anywhere, it's nice to set up a little work area — a place where the work goes smoothly. In our shop I tend to work best fon the corner of our large workbench. The bench is heavy and solid so I don't have to worry about things jiggling around. ‘On this workbench I have set up three aids that help when eutting dovetails. First there's a woodworker's vice (ours happens to be a Recon viee, purchased from Wonderaft Supply catalog, adress blow). Any’ vice will work ae long at it holds the board in & vertical position. Second, I attached an adjustable light to the bench. The one I use was purchased at an art supply store, but any kind of lamp that moves where you want it will work. (Oneof hove mechanic's lights with a hook on the end would be nice.) ‘One other thing that helps is to elamp a small piece of Masonite to the workbench. ‘Telamped it on with the rough (back) side up to protect the beneh daring the chiseling phase and also to provide some friction to keep the boards in place. LATING OUT AND MARKING TOOLS [Next come the tools. There are actually {ovo sets of taals used in making dovetails ‘The first group isuoed to lay out and mark theeats. The second group is used todo the actual cutting and fitting ‘To layout the eats for a dovetail youl need five tools sn afjustable bevel gruge, aasinall try square, a steclruler, a marking ‘gauge, and a seribe or a sharp pencil ‘SLIDING REVEL. Sliding bevels (K in Fig 1.are availabe at almost every hardware store. The ‘arm’ can be adjusted to any ‘angle and tightened in place witha thumb screw. The sliding bevel is used to make the initial marks for the dovetail. ‘Re SQUARE. Most of us have a 6” or 8" try square in the shop, (FP in Fig. 1). Its also nice (but not necessary) to have a smaller 3° try square to mark the siraight- line eats on the end and face of the boards STEEL RULER. A good 12° steel ruler is almost indispensable in any woedworie ing shop, (Cin Fig. 1). It’s much easier (and usually mich more accurate) to work with a steel ruler than fumbling with a tape ra vooun tiaras. MARKING GAUGE. On page 12 in this issue we've shown the plans for a marking gauge, (Din Fig. D. We used this one to ‘mark ofthe base ines for the dovetails im this issue. If you buy a marking gauge, the point should be reshaped as men- tioned on page 12. SCRIE WS. PENCIL. ‘The last item you need is up to some debate. The ‘ratifional tool used to mark the eutlinesis, ‘a charppointed seribe, which is just. a lightiveight version ofan awl, in Fig. 1. prefer a sharp No. 8 pencil. Ted uses a ine-pointfelt-tip pen. ‘Among traditional woodworkers the mere mention of using a peneil ora pen ‘enough to make them ahiver with disgu A seribe, they would say, is the only ‘acceptable todl for marking. Jf you use & setibe, it ehould he to along slender point to mark. (Gerth) «fine asarat ine, Of course, this line is almost impossible to see, s0 i to sprinkle some penei-iead dust a ieemoven retea Gor dark woods) in the seratch line. But when you get down to it, the line fs ‘only there as a guide for eutting. If T can't seeit, it doesn't do much good. So, I profer to use a sharp No. 3lead pencil. Most have a rather soft No. 2 lead that's nice for writing. The No. 3 (or even No.4) lead penel mars fire, eisp much easier to see than the WoopsMiTH ‘scratch line ofa seribe. Infact these harder pene leads almost serateh the wood just ‘as ascribe does, yet the hard lead leaves a visible line, ‘The key things thatthe pencil fs sharp. Most pencil sharpeners go only 0 far After sharpening to get the point, I hone the point on a piece of seratch paper (rub- bing and twirling to sharpen the point). ‘Ted prefers to use a fine-point felttip pen. (Here's where the traditionalists seream, “Blasphemy!") There's no doubt that you can see the line when it's marked with a felt-tip pen. And since Ted's dovetails are much better than mine, he ‘must be doing something right. (Ted also uses a Japanese saw and chisel to cut dovetails, and likens the felt-tip pon to the traditional Japanese of using a ‘quill and ink to mark their cuts.) DOVETAIL saws After you've layed out and marked the dovetail, you need only two tools to cut ‘them: a Saw and a chisel. The choice ofthe type of saw and chisel is, once again, fraught with debate. But what it boils down to isa matter of personal preference. DOVETAIL SAWS. There are several types ‘of saws designed for cutting dovetails. Although they differ in appearance, they do (or should) have a few things in hhigh number of teeth per inch First, ‘ofteeth per inch — usually these saws have 16 to 21 teeth per inch ( the more the better). Second, a fine ‘or narrow set to the teeth. The finer the set, the less chance of skipping or hopping ‘as the initial cut is made. Third, the saw Diade itself is made of thingauge steel. ‘This allows for a narrow kerf (ifthe teeth. ‘are sot properly), And fourth, since the ‘Dail is thin, these saws have a ‘back’ of thicker metal to keep the blade rigid (hence the name, back saw). ‘With these things in common, the only real difference between one dovetail saw and another isthe handle. A Tyzack dove- tail saw, for example, has a normal saw handle grip. The Gent's saw (presumably for ) has a turned handle (much like-a chisel) that extends straight back from the saw’s hack.’ And finally, there's the Japanese dovetail caw with a long handle extending at a slight downward angle from the saw's back (surprisingly similar to the Gent's saw.) ‘TYZACK DOVETAIL SAW. So, What saw de you use? My favorite saw for cutting ‘dovetail is the Tyzack dovetail saw, (Ain Fig. 1D). The blade of this saw is only about (121° thick, it comes with a very fine set on the teeth (the way it's supposed to be), there are 21 teeth per inch, and just plain does a nice job. ‘Besides the fact that it cuts with case, ‘makes an superfine kerf, and has an easy sure grip... besides all that, it's quite 2 Thandsome saw. The solid brass back and nicely proportioned handle make it a treasured addition to any tool collection. (Available from Leichtung, Fine Toot ‘Shop, and Wooderaft Catalogs.) JAPANESE DOVERAIL SAW. Tod has a yen for the Japanese dovetail saw (called a dozuki) (Lin Fig. 1). The one we have was. purchased at a local store, but several ‘are now carrying Japanese saws (the best is the Woodline Catalog.) ‘These Japanese saws are made of very thin steel (ours is 0.12" thick, or about the thickness of 2 pages of Woodsmith!). The teeth are long and narrow (about 24 teeth per inch). The major difference is that all Japanese saws cut on the pull stroke (the teeth point toward the handle), as opposed to the push stroke on all Western saws. ‘This actually makes a lot of sense. As the saw is making the eat, pressure on the blade pulls it taught. This allows the steel forthe blade tobe very tin (fr avery 1arartst OOVETAN 3AM (Pt) vivivy STERN DOVETAIL SAW (PUSH) If you want to try out the Japanese, I night offer one note of eaution, This i a very delicate saw to be used with a very Tight touch, Lee the saw do the work, dont forveit. Many Japanese saws wind up with ‘bent and mangled teoth bocause they're ‘man-handled beyond their limits. ‘GENTS SAW. As for the Gent's saw: I'm not particularly fond of these saws (although they're probably the cheapest and mest available of the bunch), (Ein Fig. 1), However, ater trying out the Japanese ‘saw, I did some experimenting on a Gea ‘saw. [removed the blade from the ‘hack’ flipped it aroand (so the tecth pointed toward the handle), Then I presi the teeth together in a machinist’ eeeie er Sele ee ese, ey opinion, a dramatic improvement in the saw's action, SELECTION OF CHISELS ‘The only other tools you need is a goad set ‘of sharp chisels, and Uhe mallet or hammer ‘to go with them. And here the selection process is much easior. Any chisel that ean be struck with a hammer or mallet will get the job done. Garrett Wade, Fine Tool Shop, and Woorderafi Supply all have a ‘good selection of chisels.) ‘We have six or seven sets of chisels around the shop. I generally choose the ‘ones that are closest to me at the time — provided, that is, they are sharp. However, in all fairness, there is one other factor that may influence the ‘decision of which chisel to use. Most bench chisels (including paring chisels and butt chisels) have beveled edges. (This refers to ‘the bevel along the length ofthe “back,’not the beveled catting edge.) This beveled ‘edge makes it much easier to chop out the ‘vaste in the angied corners of the dovetail. ‘Also, some chisels are thinner than thers, s0it'seasierto got the chisel where {you want it. For example, wehaveaset of Uimia paring chisels which are somewhat thin and nice for cutting dovetails. “Tedlikestouse thespecialJapanesedove- tail chisels. These have steeply beveled ‘backs specially designed forcuttingdove- tals. Also, the steel used for these chisels is excelent (see Woodline Catalog). ‘One ast point: I tend tolike short chisels (ike but chisels) because I hold the chisel by the blade (not the handle) to position it to chop out the waste. Short chisels don't ‘wag’ around as much, making them easier to put them exactly where I want them. ‘When it gets down tot, it'snot what the chisel looks like, it’s the very tip, the ‘atting edge, that does the work. Above al, the ehisels mast be sharp. lof the Chisel work on dovetails is done with the chisel set across the grain and chopping Straight down. The only way to do this is with sharp chisel. HAMMER OW MALLET: For a long time 1 used a wooden mallet to drive the chisel into the wood. It seemed only proper. But the turned type of mallet (the kind wood carvers dee) has a tendency to rol of the bench and find its way to one of my toes. Recently, I've come to use the Stanley Noor haramer, (H in Fig- 1). This is @ light-weight hammer (14 oz), yet has ‘enough heft to drive the chisel as far as | ‘want it to go. It’s made of some kind of tack plastic material and the head is filled ‘with lead pellets and ol. Past or not, i's ‘anico hammer and quite nice for pounding the joint together during the final iting (it wort dent or mar the wood). ‘SOURCES: If you cant find some of the tools listed above ata local store, you may want to send for the following: catalogs The Fine Tool Shop (Catalog $5), 20 Backus Ave., Danbury CT 06810. Garrett Wade (Catalog $8), 161 Avenue of the Americas, New York NY 10013. Leiohting (Catalog $1), 4944 Commerce Parkway, Cleveland OH 44128. Wooderajt Supply (Catalog $2.50), 313 Montvale Ave., Wo- ‘burn MA O1888, Wondline (Catalog $1.0), 1718 Clement Ave., Alameda CA 94501. WoopsmirH, Dovetail Joinery AN OVERVIEW OF HOW TO LAY OUT THE CUTS Once you've collected the tools to do the Job, i's time to start laying out the cuts. ‘There are three basic variations on the dovetail joint: through dovetail, half blind, and mitered (or fal-bind). Although much of the process is very similar fr al three variations, we're limit ing this article to through dovetails. Half ‘ind dovetsils (which are used mainly in drawer construction) willbe coveredin the next issue. And mitered dovetails won't be coveredat all bezuse they have extremely limited application (and they're relly kind of a waste of time) ‘ukoUGH DOVETALS. The method des ctibed here for cutting through dovetails may not be the best. It's certainly not the fastest. But itis satisfying work. done with hand tools ‘A through dovetal joint consists of two halves: the pins and the tals. The worst partabout laying out a dovetail is geting a ‘lear pictare in your mind of what these two halves look like and how they fit together. This just takes a litle getting sed to. ‘When viewod from the face ses of the bards, the pins of the dovetail the board nthe Fightin the photo) look just like the ar pins oft box joint. The fails {the board on the lft inthe photo look ike 4 dove’ tal (hence the name of the joint). ust to keep you on your toes, when viewed from the ends uf the boards the pins look like tails, and the tals look like pins. But this confision will lear up after youTve cut one oF two dovetal joints, DIRECTION OF STRENGTH Now the question arises: Which bourd gets the pins, and which board gets the tas? ‘And docs it makeany difference? Although ‘dovetail is commonly considered a very strong joint, itis only strong in one di- rection. (Here I mean the mechanical or interlocking strength of the joint. Once it’s ‘lued up it’s nearly impossible to get apart ‘in any direction.) ‘The direction of strength is toward the pins, To illustrate, refer to the drawing at ‘ight. Dovetails are normally used to join four boardsat right angles to formaivox. If this joint were on a drawer, for example, the pins would be eut on the drawer front where the mechanical strength of the Joint holds the drawer together as it’s pulled open. If the joint were on a wall. hung cabinet the pins would be cut on the bottom which is the direction ofthe weight of the contents. However, the direction of mechanical strength of the joint may not be the pri mary consideration. Ifthe box is meant to ‘support weight from the outside (as with the Shaker Step Stool in this iseue), the direction of pressure (or weight) is more important. This has toda with thesize and placement of the tails. The tails, in this fase must be wide enough to support the weight (downward pressure) on the face of the beard, and positioned so they take the brunt of the weight. In some cases both direction of strength and direction of pressure must be con- ‘sidered — as with the coffee table in this issue. The pinsare on the legs tokeep them from splaying out, which works out nicely ‘because the tails must be on the top to support the weight. ‘THE FIRST THREE STEPS What's the first step in laying out a dove- tall At this point I'm supposed to launch Into a discussion about pins and tails, and angles, and such. But the first step (in- eed, the fire three steps) have nothing to do with pins, tails, or angles. 1. TRUING THE BOARDS. The first (and often neglected) step is to truc up the boards you'll be working with. 1 rip the boards to width, making sure both edges are ripped square. (The edges ean be ‘smoothed on ajointer or with a hand plane, ‘but I usually wait until after the dovetails are cut for the final smoothing) Next, both fuees of the boards should be planed or sanded to remove any defects (each as ‘ripples’ left by a surface planer), or to remove any ‘cup’ or twist in the boards, Also, make sure the thickness (particularly at the ends of the boards) = ‘equal from one edge to the other. ‘nother words, the boards should be fat ‘and smooth — to the point that all they need is a little finish sanding. This will ‘ensure things don't get géofed up during the layout phase. 2. CUTTOLENGTH. Now the boards ean be the final length of in part on step three (which deals with marking the base line, or shoulders of the joint). But for now, let's assume the boards are eut to length for a box. The key thing here is tomake sure the tends ofthe boards are cat square with the edges. If neither the inside or outside dimen- sions of the box is absolutely eritieal, then the boards can be cut to length without ‘much concern ifthe actual final dimensions drawer work, especially when the drawer must ft in a specific ‘opening, the procedure followed in Step 3 must be taken into consideration first. If allof this is too much, the real paint of ‘Step2is tomakesure the ends of all baards are square with the edges. |3. MARK THE SHOULDERS. The boards are true, the ends are eat off square. Now all that remains is marking the base line (the shoulders) of the pins and tails. This base line is actually the bottom of the ext on both pieces, and in effect dictates the final dimensions of the box. ‘The baseline also dictates the amount of work you must do during the final cleaning. ‘up stage. Without getting bogged down in too much detail, you have three choices. ‘The base lines can be marked exactly at WoopsMiTH the thickness ofthe boards, ora tiny stnid- igen more than the thickness, or a tiny ‘smidgen less, How the base lines are marked is im portant for two reasons. The base lines determine the final measurements (the final length) of the boards you're joining together. If you're building a drawer, for ‘example, this measurement becomes crit- ‘eal because the distance between the base the final width of ‘The second reason has to do with the amount of work you have to go through to clean up the finished joint. Let's say, for example, that you're going to build a ‘drawer. All four earners are joined with ‘through dovetails, The pins are eut on the

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