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    21 views24 pages

    Woodsmith 029

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    zemihirayane

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    of 24
    NO. 29 __NOTESFROMTHE SHOP ‘8.2.50 “Woodsmith TOY CHEST FOR KIDS | OLD-FASHIONED OAK FILE CABINET Barrister’s Sawdust Design Director “Ted Kralioek Assistant Ecitors Sieve Krohmer Michael P. Scott Graphic Designers ‘David Kreyling Marcia Simmons ‘Subscript Manager ‘Sandy J. Baum ‘Subscription Assistants ‘Christel Miner Vieky Robinson Jacke Stroud ‘Shirley Fettman Computer Operations ‘Ken Miner (Creviaton Manager ett Farris Administrative Assistane Chery! Scott ‘Bulding Maintenance ‘Archie Krause WOODSMITH ((SSN 0164-4114) is published bimonthly (Waruary, Mareh, May, July, Sop- tember, November) by Woodsmitn Pubishing G0,,2200Grand Ave., Dos Moines, lowa 50312. WOODSWITH is a ropistered trademark cf he ‘Woodsmith Publishing Co. “Copyright 1983 by Weodsmith Publishing Co. A Rights Reserved. Subscriptions: One year (6 issues) $10, Two years (2issues) $18. Single copy price, $2.50 (Canada and Foreign: add $2 per yea.) ‘Change O1 Address: Prease be sure include beth your old and new address for change of ‘a0dress, Mato: Woodsmitn, 2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, lowa 50312. ‘Second class postage pald a! Des Moines, lowe. Postmaster: Send change of address rates. Frm 9579, to Woodssrith Pubkshing Co. 2200 Grand Ave, Des Moines, lowa 50312, BACK ISSUES [Alist of te contons of al back issues sppears ‘on the wrapper of this issue. W the wrapper is ‘sing, you can send fo: a booket Gescrbing the cortenis and prices ofall back issues. ‘SAMPLE COPIES Hyouhavea tend who would Ike io see 2 copy ‘of Woods, just send the nameand address, ‘and well send a sample (at no cost) During the first two years Woodsmcith was published, I didn’t have what you'd call 2 plush office. In fact, all the projects were built in my basement workshop, and the ‘writing and artwork were done in a comer of a spare bedroom at home. ‘Then, three years ago, | moved into a “real office” in the midst of the bussle of downtown Des Moines. This “office” really 3500 sq. f. of warehouse space ‘one (small) enclosed room. When friends ‘would come by “my office,” they would shake their heads, and say, “Are you ‘erazy? What in the world are you going to ‘do with all this space?” (I told them I was ‘going to open a roller diseo on the side.) ‘A-couple of months after I moved in, Ted joined me. Not only did the artwork im- prove, the projects got better, and cir culation inereased ‘Things were starting to roll, and I began to get the feeling that Woodemith would actually make it. We started hiring more people (now there are 15 of us) and the ‘open space of the warehouse started to fill ‘up with newly-built offices, a mail room, a ‘computer room, a photo studio, a lunch room, and there was even some space left ver in the back for a shop. Last winter I decided that we were quickly running out of space, Besides, | Thad my eye on a beautiful brick Colonial just three blocks away. That's the kind of Yullding for Woodsmith, Ubetiteven has a beamed ceiling. My enthusiasm for the building was greeted with more shaking heads, “Don, that building has 16,000 sq. f. Ts too big, too expensive, and no, it doesn’t have a beamed ceiling. You'd be erazy to buy it.” ‘That's when T knew it would be perfect for Woodemith. We bought it and have spent the last six months having it com- pletely remodeled. Including the additicn of. beamed ceiling in the lobby. guoss what I'm getting at (this is the long-winded version) is that wenow havea ‘new home, We're all kind of proad of it — and if you're ever inthe neighborhood, fel free to stop in, (It's eany to find — we're just two doors down from the Iowa gov- ‘ernor’s mansion. Clasey neighbors.) ‘NeW SHOP. The best part about this new fiding is the two-story brick carriage hhouse behind it. We want toconvert it into our new “old-time” woodworking. shop. Unfortunately, the carriage house is in need of extensive repair (is in older and in ‘worse shape than I am). But we hope to hhave it squared away by next summer. ‘NEW ADDRESS. With the new building ‘comes a new mailing address: Woodsrith Publishing Co. 2200 Grand Avenne Des Moines, Towa $0312 At 7 je va sain, worry. We will continue to pick upany mail delivered to the old address (for one year). And of course, oar Post Office Box Ad- ‘dress (P.O. Box 846) i still valid. [NEW FACES. Archie Krause tas joined ‘oar happy erew. Archie is in charge of ‘building maintenance — including the care and feeding of the huge old boiler (which Ihappens tobe directly under my office). He assures me everything is under control "ABOUT THIS ISSUE. With all the exeite- ment of moving, we also managed to get ‘at thisissue of Woodamith. P'vewanted to ‘build twoot these projects (the file cabinet ‘and the barrister’s bookease) for a long time. They both have a good feeling about them — a litle old-fashioned, but stable and secure. I hope you enjoy them. NEW ADDRESS: Woodsmith Publishing Co., 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, LA 54312 2 WoopsMiTH Tips & Techniques ‘Whenever I'm using a chisel to hand cut a ‘mortise (or squaring the round comers of a slot. mortise), the workpiece often slips in ‘the jaws ofthe viscas I'm chopping outthe ‘waste. And even when the vise is tight- ‘ened securely, positioning the piece so it’s level an slightly above the top edge of the vise is often a real headache. "To provent the piece from slipping, and ‘to keep it positioned above the top edge of the vise, I made a simple holding jig that hhangs from the top edge of the vise. The beauty ofthis jg is that it helps counterthe ownwant foree of chopping out the waste by supporting the bottom edge of the iorkpiece. This often eliminates having to tighten the vise to within an inch ofits life to keep the piece from slipping. ‘The clamping jig is made from ¥ ply- ‘wood and tivo small strips of hardwood. ‘One of the strips (4' x 90) is attached to the top edge ofthe plywood. Then a second strip, slighdy thinner than the thickness of the workpiece, is attached to the opposite face on the other end of the plywood as i ‘Because less time is spent fussing with the vise, I've found that cutting mortises is Jess of @ hassle. The end result is that rm uch more likey to take the time required to “do it right”, ash Redding, Cali CONSISTENT CORNERS TTve noticed that on alot of woodworking projects, the corners are often rounded to rai varying from about Yon up. In an effort to keep things consistent, 1 made a simple template out of tempered Masonite with sll four comers cut to a different radius. Now, whenever Tround a forner, I dant have to search the shop t0 {nd a makeshift template. yam William Brotherson Chicago, Htinois ROUTING DENTIL [ think I've come up with an improvement on the table saw and dado blade method of producing dentil molding (shown in Wood ‘mith No, 28). Besides producing a cleaner ‘vottomed dado, my method also uses the Woodemith router table . . . quite an ad vantage in itself ‘The jig consists of an arm (which holds ‘the indexing pin) with T-hars attached on both ends. The two T-bars are positioned so they both butt up tight against the ends of the router table top. ‘The T-bars not only guide the arm of the Jigover the bit, they als@keep the spacing between the indexing pin and the bit exactly the same for each cut. "To make the jig, | used a serap picee of '¥¢ plywood for the arm, and a piece of 2x4 for the T-bars on both ends. First, eut the plywood 2° wide, and as long as the router table is wide... plas an extra" to cover the two 14" wide T:hars. Then rip the 2x4 into two 18" squares, 10° long. ineatting dentil is be sure they're the suine size is to cut the ‘groove for the pin and the kerf for the dentil with the same bit. ‘To do this, first I glued and serewod the right T-bar at a right angle to the arm of the jig. Then to cut the groove for the indexing pin in the correct position, I used spacer block to shim the T-bar away from the edige of the router table. The width of the spacer block is equal the width of the dentil blocks, plus the diamoter of the bit. In my case, I was using a YC bit to cut the kerf, and wanted the blocks to be 4° wide. So'T used a %' wide spacer (14° bit plus 1 spacings) to chim the ‘T-bar 4° from the edge of the table top. Then 1 routed ae" deep cut through the arm, ‘producing 2 4’ wide kerf for the indexing pin, ‘After cutting the kerf for the indexing pin, T removed the spacer, and attached the second ‘T-bar on the arm s0 that both ‘Tara were snag against the cides of the ‘router table top. Finally, [cat an indexing pin to fit the kerf in the arm, and trimmed it ush with the bottom of the jig. og Bete the ruta ible dent ig, att we end of the piece being routed against the indexing pin, and slide the jig over the ‘it untl the frst cut is ce. Then slip, the first dado over the indexing pin, and ‘make the second cut, To complete the den- |, this process is repeated until the entire piece is cut James Deyer Cottage Grove, Minnesota DRILLING ON A SHOPSIITH Whenever I'm drilling near the edge of a ‘board on my Shopsmith Mark V, it seems ‘that the sawdust created by the bit always. falls between the board and the fence. And ‘thon when it comes time to drill the next piece, this sawdust Keeps the workpiece from batting up tight against the fence. An easy way to eliminate this problem is to position the fence on the table so it overhangs all but about %" of the miter gauge slot. Then I adjust the table untilthe rill bit is in proper location to drill the pre-marked holes, Tf'the sawdust produced by the bit falls between the board and the fence, it will drop into the miter gauge slot and out of the way. Kevin L. Miller Glendale, Arizona you'd hte hare a woodworking tip wahothor readers of Woodsmitn, send your idea 10: Woodsmt, Tips & Techniques, 2200 Grand ‘Ave. Des Moines, lowa 50312. ‘We pay a minimum of $10 for tps, and $15 0° ‘mow for special techniques (that are accepted {ex publication) Please givea complete explana ‘ion of your Kea. a sketch is resded, send it ‘along; well draw a new one. WoopsmiTH | 1 all started with a simple, off-the-cuff ‘comment: “Maybe we should design a nice | toy box for the next issue.” Considering the epidemic of new parents around here, 1 ‘was beginning to feel the pressure for a praject lke this. But what I wasn't pre- pared for were all the “suggestions” that followed (, the lid can't be hinged, i'l fall on | their heads." *No, you ean't put the handle there, i pinch their fingers.” “Put it on wheels.” “Add drawers.” "It has to stand ‘up to being ‘standed” on [tried te incorporate all ofthese sugies | tions into this frame and panel toy chest. | The key thing was to make sure it had a sliding lid (eather than 2 hinged lid that ‘ould slam down and burp a young head.) Talto tried to make it sturdy enough to | stand up to the most rambunctious kids. Then | got down to the practical side of | how this box would be constructed, I was, | once again, at no loss for suguestions. It had to be more than a simple box — tolook nice” and at the came time be “easy to build.” With this in mind, I decided to build the toy chest using frame and panel construction. SIDE FRAMES ‘The first step is to build the two long side frames. Each of these frames consists of twolong rails (A), two end stiles (B), and a divider stile (0). CUTRAILS AND STILES. First, rip enough stock for the two rails and two stiles to a Width of 19. Then the rails are trimmed to their final length of 40%" (whieh in chides an extra %¢ for the two %-long stub tenons). The stiles are trimmed to final length of 143, see Fig. 1 ‘CENTER DIVIDER. The frame's center divider (C) is an extra stile that holds the plywood panels in place and ads strength to support the top of the toy chest. The divider stiles on the toy box we built are 194 wide. But after we finished the chest tiles would look beter if Ta np them 24 wide (es were showing '). Then trim them toa final length rie teen 4 fr the to ‘W-long stub tenons), see Pig. 1 {CUTE ROOVES Once all the pieces fr the two side frames are cat to size, the next step is to eut grooveson theinside edges of the nals and stiles. “These grooves not only panels in the frame: “mortises” for the stub tenons, see Fig. 2 Lay out the pieces for the frames and mark 4 old the plywocd they also create the face side of each piece, and then mark the inside exge (where the grooves will be cit), (Note: On the conter divider, be sure mark and eut grooves on both edges, see Fig. 3.) ‘All of the grooves are centered on the thickness of the stock and are %° deep. Althoagh we're showing the width of the frooves as 4, this dimension should be ‘tered so it equals the aetual thickness of the plywood you're using for the panels. (For more information on centering a ‘groove, and cutting the entire stub tenor’ ‘ervove joint, see page 22.) STURTENONS. Next, cut stub tenons on the ends of the rails and center dividers to fit the grooves. These tenons are % long, and eut s0 the thickness of the tenons ‘equals the width of the groove. PANELS. Nov the frames are complete Al that’s needed are the plywood panels. ‘To get the dimensions for the panels, dry~ clamp the frames together (with the center dividers in place) and measure the inside dimensions of both openings. Then add toboth dimensions to allow for the depth of the grooves. ‘When eutting the oak plywood panels to size, Teut them so the grain was running with the long dimension, soe Fig. 1. Also, ‘one nice touch you can add to this project is Toy Chest HIDE-AWAY FOR KID‘S KLUTTER ‘to-cut and mark the panels so when they're installed in the frames the grain pattern ‘continues from one panel to the next on ‘euch frame. ‘CUT RADBETS, The last step before gh ing up the frames is to eut rabbets on the stiles, see Fig. 2. These rabbets are used later to join the side frames to the end frames. The rabbets are eut so they're ‘and as wide as the thickness of the Stock used fur the end frames. ASSEMBLE AND GLUE FRAME. Finally, ‘dry-clamp the side frames together to make sure overything fits. When they cheek out, glue the frames together (gluing the panels into the grooves). After both side frames were complete, I went towork ‘on the end frames. | END FRAMES, One of the end frames is very’ similar in construction to the side frames — a basic frame with a plywood panel. But the other end frame has two drawers, so there's no panel. Instead, there's « middle rail (P) der between the draw= END FRAME, ‘The end frame | with the panel has two rails (E) and two | stiles (D). "The rails are eut 1%" wide and MW long. The stiles are ripped only Ie" WoopsMiTH wide by 144" long, see Fig. 4 Design Note: I'd like to interrupt things ‘to make a side comment about one of the design considerations used hore. As men- tioned above, the stiles on the end frames are eut 1¥s" wide, which is Ye" narrower ‘than the stiles on’ the side frames (whieh ‘are 1" wide). The reason for the different ‘widths has to do with the visual effect these two pieces create after they are Joined together. ‘When looking at the comer where these ‘two frames moet, youl sce the fall width {G90 ofthe ste nthe side trae, referto ig. 5. Th order to make this corner visually ‘equal from both directions, the tile on the fend frame has to be trimmed down to lie" ‘wide, so when the %" edge of the rabbet is added on, this stile also looks like it's 19" wide. CUT GROVES. Now back to building the paneled end frame. After the stiles and ‘rails are eut to size, a3"deop grooveis cut ‘on the inside edge of each piese. Then 43¢-long stub tenors are eut on both ends of the rails to fit in the grooves. ‘CUT PANEL. To determine the size of the panel, dry-clamp the frame together and measure the distance between the inside ‘edges of the rails and stiles. Then add 9° to both dimensions (to allow for the two Weep grooves), and cut the plywood panel to size, see Fig. 4, DRAWER-END FRAME. The frame at the ‘other end ofthis chest has the sameoutside dimensions as the pancled frame. (In fact, the pieces for both of these frames ean be ‘ent at the same time to ensure they're equal.) ‘This drawer-end frame has two stiles (D), two rails (B), plus the extra ral (F) in this frame which serves as a divider be- ‘tyreon the drawers. Once again, the stiles are ripped to a width of 1¥ie" and the rails toa width of 1", Then eut them to final length, see Fig. 4 ‘GhoovES. Even though there's no panel ‘in this frame, 1 used the same type of joinery used on all the other frames. This means cutting: grooves in the two stiles, and stub tenons on the ends ofthe rails and center divider. ASSEMBLY. As with the other frames, dry-clamp the two end frames and check their ft before gluing them up. When as- sembling the drawer-end frame, position the divider ral (F) so there's an opening of 3¥' between it and the top rail. This should leave a 6s" opening for the bottom. drawer. See Figs. 4 and 7. RABKET FOR BOTTOM PANEL. After the two sie frames and both end frames are assembled, there's one final step. A rabbet is cut on the inside bottom edge of all four frames. These rabbets are used to join the '¥eplywoud base to the bottom edges ofthe frames, see Fig. 8. WoopsmiTH JOINING THE FRAMES At this point the two side frames and two fend frames of the chest are complete and they can be assembled to form the basic chest, However, I found it was alot easier to keep this assembly square if the plywood bottom (T) is in place while the frames are being clamped. CUT BOTTOM. To get the final dimensions for the bottom, dry-clamp the frames together, and measure the distance be- tween the rabbets (on the bottom of the frames), soe Fig. 7. Then eat the ” ply- wood bottom to size. ASSEMBLY. As the four framos are glued and clamped together, place (don't glue) the plywood bottom in the rabete to help hold the assembly square. ‘CUT Dabo, After this assembly is dey, remove the bottom and cut a dado init for the center cabinet divider, see Fig. 7. This Ye-deep dado is cut 16)" from the “Grawer” end of the plywood, see Fig. 8. ARer the dado is eut, the plywood bottom can be glued and camped to the bottom of the assembled chest. ‘ROUT EDGES, Finaly, 1 rounded off the {our corners ofthe chest (to eliminate any sharp corners) using a %° corner-round bit, see Fig. 9. DIVIDER AND FALSE TOP ‘To keep all the litte toys from getting lost, [installed adivider (Ute separatethe two halves of the chest. And to support the divider Talo added a false top (V) over the Uirawer-end of the chest, see Fig. & Me DIVIDER. The divider (U) is 6 width so it fits between the two side frames. The divider should be trimmed 20 ite top edges 11" below the top edge of the side frame, see Fig, 10, (This 195" space allows 3" for the false top, ¥° for the sliding top, and 4 for clearance.) FALSE Tor. Next cut the false top (V) to Se eee frames, and to length 30 it extends 974" beyond the divider, see Fig. & ASSEMBLY. Next, Ipartially assembled these twoppieces before placing them inthe chest. Todo this, first measure the dis- tance from the end framet.o the dadoon the plywood bottom. (This should be 16%). Then position the top soit’ tho same dis” tance (16%')from the end ofthe divider, andglucand screw the two piceestogether. ‘Next, giteand clampacieat tothe end of the false top, see Fig. 8. And finally, install this assembiy inside the chest by’ eiuing the bottom edge ofthe divider in the dado, and serewing the cleat to the drawerend frame, see Fig. 10. STOP BLOCK AND RUNNERS ‘The next phase is to add the stop blocks and runners (J) for the sliding top. STOP BLOCKS. Glue two 37+"Long blocks WoopsMiTH e tothe top ofthe false top to stop the sliding lid as it's opened, see Fig. 11. (glued felt tabs on the ond of the blocks to reduce faanging 2s the lid is opened.) ‘RUNNERS. Then to support the sliding lid, install two ranners (J). These runners are 14" x 4" with the bottom edge rounded, sec Fig. 12. To cut these rather Smal strips, frst round over twoedges ofa Dt-wide piece of stock. Then trim a ‘wide strip off each edge to form the runners. Finally, countersink holes in the runners, and screw (bat don't glue) them into place so they’re level with the top of the false top, see Fig. 11 SLIDING LID ‘The sliding lid is a piece of %' plywood with eaps on both onds. Cut the plytood to width to ft between the two side frames and 199/" long, see Fig. 11 ENDCAPS, To mount the end caps, Tused groove-and-epline joinery. Cut a Vix Me ‘groove on both edges of a Z-wide piece of ‘oak about 16" long. Then with the came ‘set-up om the save, cut 4x 46 ‘both ends ofthe plywood. (The wi ‘grooves actually equals the thickness of the splines.) Now cut the “wide end caps ‘from each edge of the 2"-wide piece, and ‘trim them to fit the width of the top. ‘ASSEMBLY. To join the caps to the ply- ‘wood, cut two 4/-wile plywood splines to fit the grooves. Then glue and clamp both fend caps to the plywood. Finally, use a ‘rounding over bit to round the edges ofthe fend caps, see Fig. 13. DRAWER PULL. The last stop is to add a handle tothe sliding id. We originally built this chest with a recessed drawer pull. But when we “child tested” the lid, we found the recessed pull was too difficult for little fingers to operate. So I'd suggest using an ‘oak drawer handle, centered 24” from the front edge, see Sources on page 24 TOP AND BASE FRAMES ‘There are two more frames to build to complete this chest for the hase, see Fig. 1. TRAILS. Tho rals (6) on both frames are tipped 2" wide and 1” longer than the Tength of the assembled chest (which means the rails will overlap ¥ beyond the fend of each end frame). STILES. There are two stiles (H) for the hase frame, two, slles (H) for the top frame, and one stile (D which isthe center divider. Allfivestilesare2ve wideand cut to length s0 the width of the assembled frames is 1" wider than the ehest (prodac- ing a W overhang on the front and bacl). BASE FRAME. At this point, the base frame can be assembled. Cut wide by M-deep grooves in the two rails for the base frame, Then cut stub tenons on the tends of the stiles to fit the grooves, and ‘glue and clamp the base frame together. efor the top and one | WoopsMiTH PRE | _ The top frame still needs a plywood panel (to cover the false top) before it ean be assert] ‘CUT PANEL. To determine the size of the plywood panel, center the divider in the top frame and dry-clamp it together. Then. ‘measure the opening and cut the plywood to this size, see Fig. 15. Grooves. To mount the panel, I used ‘groove and epline joinory. First, mark the face side ofthe plywood panel and the five pieces for the top. Then set up the saw to cut 8'

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