Head setter session 1

Jacky Godoffe consulting

Content Goals
● Minimize useless work
● Optimize time
● Limit tiredness
● Improve communication
within the team

TOPIC Process
● Efficiency of route ● STOP AND GO
setting session
Before you start: The principle of this way of organizing setting is to alternate time ON THE WALL and Time
OFF THE WALL, INDIVIDUAL WORK and TEAM WORK.

Recommendation Planification before setting

Clock is ticking:
Time is not extensible so better to fix in
advance the duration of the global session
and adjust each step to make decisions on
time.
PAY ATTENTION TO HAVE DIFFERENT
GOALS FOR DIFFERENT BOULDERS OF
THE SAME LEVEL
● Define the number of boulders to set
during the session in total
● Define TARGET and GOALS for each
boulder (see appendix 2 & 3 for
examples)
● Prepare same number of labels as
boulder to set
● Fix the labels at the bottom of each
part of the wall (see appendix 1)
Before you start: Status of the route setting process

Draft Individual Team testing Check

testing
Process STOP & GO
Break time: 5 minutes off
2. Individual Testing
the wall and update the Duration: 1 hour
status
Each setter climbs in his own boulder to answer these 2
1. The Draft questions:
Duration: Depends on the - Have I hit the target? Yes / No, let’s tweak it
amount of boulders - Did I respect the goals? Yes / No, let’s tweak it
30min/draft
Each setter sets the number of boulders he has to
according to the goals and target without testing.
He also has to put JUGS to help the testing later
in each boulder.
STOP & GO
Break time: 5 minutes off
the wall and update the
status

3. Team testing
Duration: 2 hour
4. Screw checking, labeling...
Team climb in all boulders to check the 2 questions:
Duration: 30 minutes
- Have we hit the target? Yes / No, team suggests
Check that everything is well screwed and STOP & GO and makes adjustments
ready to climb with labels Break time: 5 minutes off
the wall and update the - Did we respect the goals? Yes / No, team suggests
status and makes adjustments
Go Further & Feedback
Before the route setting session, head setter can add other questions for goals:
○ Is it fair for all sizes (small & tall)
○ Is it aesthetic to watch?

Feedback of the session:

○ Take 10 minutes to check with your team what worked well and we could improve next time
Resources: (appendix 1)
Example of a label for a boulder:

Routesetter’s name: Jacky

Target: Red circuit

Goals: Fingery, Bad footholds

Process:
Resources: (appendix 2)
Example of goals:
Resources: (appendix 3)
Understanding the target:

● You have to set boulders for different kind of customers/climbers according to the scale you use in
the gym from the easy to hard boulders.
● It is important to understand that each level in the scale is a different target so you have to know
who you set for in each level and to learn their abilities and weaknesses.
● Then you can provide in each different level a diversity of moves to help each different climbers to
be able to climb in a higher level.
● You learn if you reach the target with feedback when they climb

Example in my gym from easiest to hardest

YELLOW GREEN BLUE RED WHITE BLACK PINK