Professional Documents
Culture Documents
(08.03.05)
From the above definitions, we can say that a person who involved in apparel
merchandising needs a wide range of knowledge and skills to perform his/ her job
successfully. The job itself is Technical and general as well.
15.03.05
For woven –
Before placing a “fabric purchase order”
Ans. Four basic categories of information are identified by the AAMA to purchase fabric
1. Physical characteristics of the fabric
2. Performance characteristic of the fabric
3. Visual defect characteristic of the fabric
4. Shade specification of the fabric
The grading system to be used should be specified together with the level of acceptance
Shade specification of the fabric
The colors of the purchased materials should be specified together with tolerances
between batches to batch (pantone book, swatch book)
For knit
Others –
- performs given who those to have knowledge about production, quality, machine and
its operations.
29.03.05
“Quick Response”
&
“Sample Development”
Quick Response
3. Quality Management
“Production Management”
1. Organization must now be added “ QR” ( quick response)
2. Current demand for “ QR”
- Modular Manufacturing (developed by japans Toyota com.)
- The unit production system (develop system of progressive bundle
system)
- Tailoring ( it is not essential for quick response)
Sample development
This is response of merchandiser and designer
Designer
1. The origin of style
- market research ( fashion show, fashion journal, idea from retail store)
- design concept
- proto type pattern (sample development)
Merchandiser
Merchandising chronological processes:-
-1st pattern (first sample)
- Sales man sample (for sale every chain store can take 20)
- Photo / proto type sample (original fabric & accessories are made)
- Production sample
Example:-
For a long sleeve shirt:-
Spec. sheet:-
Collar = 16"
Chest = 48"
Center back length = 31"
Sleeve length = 34.5"
Drop shoulder = 21"(yoke)
Arm hole depth (1/2) = 10.5"
Cuff = 9"
Pocket = 6" × 5.5"
Yoke is all time = 4"
[Area means- L× W]
Back part
Formula:-
(Center back length + allowance) × (½ chest + allowance) / 36
{L} {W}
44
= (31" + 2") × (24" + 2" ) /36
44
= 0.541yds
Yoke
Formula:-
(Yoke length + allowance) × (yoke width + allowance) / 36
44
= (21" + 4") × (4"+ 1") / 36
44
= 0.079 ydz
Front part
Formula:-
(Body length + allowance) × (¼ chest + allowance) × 2 /36
44
= [{31"- 1 ¼" + 1"} ×{ 12" + 2 ½" }] 2" /36
44
= 0.562 yds
Sleeve
Formula:-
(Sleeve length + allowance) × (arm hole depth full + allowance) ×2 / 36
44
= {sleeve length – (½ drop shoulder + ½") × (arm hole depth + allowance)} ×2 /36
44
= [{34 ½" - 11"} +1"] × {21" +1"} × 2 /36
44
= 0.68yds
Cuff
Formula:-
(Cuff length + allowance) × (cuff width + allowance) ×2 / 36
44
= (9" + 3") × (2 ½" + ½" ) ×2 /36
44
= 0.05yds
Collar
Formula:-
(Collar length + allowance)× (collar width + allowance) × 2 /36
44
= (collar length + allowance) × (collar width + allowance) ×4 / 36
44
= (16" + 5") × (2" +1") × 4/36
44
= 0.159yds
Pocket
Formula:-
(Pocket length + allowance) × (pocket width +allowance) / 36
44
= (6" +2") (5½" +1") /36
44
= 0.032yds
Total consumption for one garment = 0.541+0.079+0.562+0.68+0.05+0.159+0.032
= 2.100 yds/ per garment
Per dz = 2.100 ×12
= 25.20/dz (ypd) + 5%
= {25.20 ×5 / 100} + 25.20
= 1.26 + 25.20
= 26.46
19.04.05
Formula:-
Measurement:-
Length = 70 cm
½ chest = 60 cm / dia
Sleeve length = 25 cm
Arm hole width = 40 cm
GSM = 145
Find out consumption / dz in kg?
Formula:-
= {(70 +5) + (25 +5)} × 60 × 2 ×145 ×12 {B.L + S.L × chest × GSM ×12}
10000000 100 100 1000
= 2.28 kg + 7%
= 2.28 kg +0.159
= 2.439 kg [neck and sleeve are made rib so add 0.10]
All time collar in rib = (350-400)
Cost calculation
Cost is divided in to:-
1. Pre- cost------- merchandiser
2. Final costing -------- merchandiser + import section
4. A detailed cost analysis is made for each garment the final cost is plotted
on a “cost sheet”.
Ans. –
1. Materials:- total amount of material × @ ($ 1) / yd = total price
2. Trimming :- button(BTN), thread(THD), interlining(int), level & packing
3. Production pattern making, grading, marking, spreading and cutting
4. Assembly and finishing:- calculated the average time of operations
5. Over head cost :- salary, rent, utilities > (30- 40%)
6. Freigh :- air freight / sea freight
7. Quota change
Ans.
Fabric- Ging ham (Tc fabric):-
1. Fabric: - 30yds × $ 0.95 = us $ 28.50
2. Accessories: - cost / dz × = us $ 6.00 (1 piece all time $ .15)
3. Cm / dz = us $ 10.00
Sub total = $ 44.50
4. Transport cost from factory to sea or air port (.5%) = us $ 0.25
5. Clearing and fording cost (2%) = us $ 0.90
6. Over head cost (.5%) = us $ 0.20
Net cost price = us $ 45.85
7. Profit (10%) = us $ 4.50
Net FOB price = us $ 50.90
8. Freight (4%) = us $ 2.00
Net C & F price = us $ 52.90
9. Insurance (1%) = us $ 0.52
Net CIF price = us $ 53.42
For final semester
03.05.05
Documentation:-
(a) Order confirmation documentation:-
1. Copy of master L/C > or received of this documentation from the buyer, the
exporters become sure that they would obtain foreign currency after the perches
shipment.
(f) Documentation for opening L/C (for opening L/C the bank will provide the following
things:-
1. L/C application form
2. IMP form (import permission form)
3. Agreement form
4. Guarantee form
Have to fill up the forms mentioned above and after verifying and signing the following
documents should be submitted to the bank:-
1. Trade license (valid)
2. IRC (import Registration certificate)
3. Membership certificate
4. Memorandum of association
5. Income tax declaration
6. A photograph
17.05.05
For proforma making, we can follow the knitting m/c dia, knitting m/c gauge. Single m/c
gauge most of the time = 24 and 28.
M/c selection = yarn count-30s = m/c dia equal to fabric dia or more ½ ". (When
gauge=24)
M/c selection= yarn count-26s (24) =1" more than m/c dia, 26s (28) = 2"more
M/c selection, yarn count 20s (24) = 2" more than m/c dia, 24s (28) = 3"more
24.05.05
@ Material control ≤ Material control in the cutting room begins with establishing
material estimates. This will include a standard usage for a certain garment.
@ Material control ≤ Material control in the cutting room may take place in three areas
1. Fabric issue:-
* The storekeeper knows the length and width of pieces in store and issue cloth against a
copy of the cutting sheet.
* Control consists of compring expected usage (material estimate × no of garments cut)
with actual usage (issued fabric minus returned fabric)
2. Marker Making
* Control may involve checking that a copy marker is the same length as the original i.e.
master marker length = 25 yds 04"
Copy marker length = 25 yds 04"
3. Spreading
* Control of end losses, edge alignment damages which affects material utilization and
control (material width 43", fabric width 44" not allow 45")
Function:-
1. Labour cost control (pm= 40 worker, M= 35 worker)
2. Line balancing (smooth)
Line Balancing
Good line balancing increases the rate of production
Systematic work procedure is the pre-condition for smooth production
By good line balancing we can determine the exact number of machine and types
of machine required for a new style
Line balancing also helps in the determination of labour requirement
Disadvantage:-
1. Labour cost high
2. production hamper/ rate of production low
3. proper work can be hamper
Production control
Production control is concerned with production documents.
Aim: - To produce the right garment in the right quantity of the right quality and at the
eight times.
Objective: - Maximum production efficiency at minimum cost
Production control function: - will keep the cutting room and sewing room running
smooth. I.e. - organizes the flow of manufacturing process as per-production planning.
04.06.05
# Make a opining (before production) and closing (after shipment) summery for a
production style which is assigned to a merchandiser?
Ans:-
1. Buyer = JC penny
2. Style = 7153
3. Order quantity = 100000 piece (ladies blouse)
4. Delivery / shipment date = 03 / 09 / 05
Opening summery
Thread:
60/2 White =4000 cone ETA on On pipe line
Black =2000 cone Nile Fab:-
same 11/06/05
50/2 White =6000 cone Nile
Black =3000 cone
Buyer: - JC penny
Style no: - 7153
Order / quantity: - 100000 piece
Shipment date: - 03/09/05
Shipment quantity = 98,000 piece
Closing summery
Mineral (asbestos)
Man-made Regular (viscose)
Synthetic (polyamide)
Regular (single,
combed)
(2)Yarn
Dobby loom
Woven
Jacquard
(3) Fabric Knit S/j
weft
Bonded
Non-woven Rib
Felled Warp
Inter
Knotted
Purl
Preparatory
Singing
Tricot
Dyeing Scouring
4.Applied Printing mercering
Rascal
Finishing
Appearance enhance
Performance
enhance
Men’s
(5) Apparel
Ladies
Kids
processing
Roller
Screen
Block
Transfer
# Button Measurement:-
Line number:
Formula:-
1 line = 0.025"
1 line = 0.635 mm
So, 40 L = 1"
20 L = 0.5"
10 L = 0.25"
Garment washing
Washing (after wearing):- Removal of impurities (oil, stain and dust etc)
Garment wash (before wearing):- it is divided in two class:-
1. Fashion aspects
2. Functional purpose
Type of wash:-
1. Normal wash > Detergent 1% - 2% / hot wash up to 60° / time 20 min.
2. Pigment wash
3. Bleach wash
4. Stone wash with bleach or without bleach
5. Acid wash
6. Enzyme wash ( individual fiber hit & break)
7. Garment wash
8. Whitening
Stone wash:-
Stone wash – pumice stone
A light weight stone, it is lighter than water. It means when used in liquor, it is floating or
surface.
Produces from “LAVA”
When lava is cooled then it from a “stone”
This stone is perforated form
It is costly
Role of peumic stone:-
Play major roll in stone wash & acid wash
When fading effect required in jeans or denim garment it is used
Not only fashion but also to reduce “Hardness of fashion”
It changes the “out look” of garment
Help to introduce a new “Trend of fashion”
2nd step:-
Stone wash step –
Enter the garment in m/c and add water 500 liter
Start the m/c
Add bleaching agent:- 4% =kg
Punic stone :- total weight / 2 = 50 kg(half volume of total fabric)
Add soda ash:- 8% = 8kg
Continue the process for:- it depend on the sample
Remove the water
Again hot wash
3rd step:-
Neutralization:-
Water 500 liter
Acetic acid :-1% = 1 liter
Continue :- 5-10 min
Cold water
Remove water
4th step:-
Softening:-
Add 500 liter water
Add softening : 0.3% = 300gm
Whitening agent :- 0.5% = 500 gm ( it depend)
Continue 20 min
Remove water
Step 5th
Unloading
Step 6th:-
Excess water removal (hydo-extractor)
Step 7th:-
Drying, pressing and finishing.