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#stashbusterchums - 42 Ladybug

This Pattern uses


UK Crochet Terms

Yarn
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g

MC: 30g approx of Jet Black (110) for Body, Legs, Antennae, Head Cap and Spots.
CC1: 20g approx of Hot Red (115) for Wings and Mouth.
CC2: 10g approx of Linen (505) for Head.
CC3: Small amount of Bridal White (105) for Eye Highlights.

A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch de nition and creates a rm structure so
body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a
DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of meters per 50g.

Hook
3 mm

Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stu ng, stitch marker/waste yarn.

Tension
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.

Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stu ng showing
through.

© Pia Simpson 2021 1 mycrochetchums.com


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Size
Approx 14cm (5.5n) from nose to tail.

Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise speci ed this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral
without slip stitching or turning chains.

Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the rst stitch of each round.

If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then
work the rst round into the second chain from the hook.

If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can nd a Photo Tutorial at:
https://www.mycrochetchums.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html

The Ladybug is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, nish
each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails
at the end can be easily woven in.

UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations

This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please
familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!

The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch
in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet
everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the nished
item will be elongated and the stu ng will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble - the equivalent stitch in US terms is hdc - half
double.

If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can nd a conversion chart at: https://
www.mycrochetchums.com/ukus-crochet-terms.html

If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can nd a chart of the UK
Crochet terms used at: https://www.mycrochetchums.com/uk-abbreviations.html

Increasing and decreasing

The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat nish:

Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.

Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both
front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.

© Pia Simpson 2021 2 mycrochetchums.com


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Body
Worked from the underside upwards. Stu as you go.

With MC, chain 7.


Rnd 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the
chain, 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6dc, [2dc in next st] 3 times**; rep from * to ** once more. 24 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 6: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 7: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 8: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 9: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Rnd 10: Working in the BLO, dc around.
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 13: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 14: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 16: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 19: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 20: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts

Fasten o . Weave in end.

© Pia Simpson 2021 3 mycrochetchums.com


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Wings - make 2
The Wings are made as at circles which are then folded in half and the outer edge stitched closed
to form a semi-circle.

Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 10: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Rnds 11-14: Dc around.

Fasten o , leaving a long yarn tail. Fold the circle in half and use the tail with a tapestry needle to
sew the outer edge closed creating a double thickness semi-circle.

Head
Made from front to back. Stu as you go.

Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 12: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 14: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts

Fasten o .

Head Cap
Worked from back to front. Fits over the Head.

Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts


Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 12 dc, [2 htr in next st] 4 times, 14 dc. 34 sts
Rnd 10: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice, 3 dc, [2 htr in next st] twice, 3 dc, [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog.
31 sts

Fasten o .

© Pia Simpson 2021 4 mycrochetchums.com


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Legs - make 6
Worked from bottom upwards. Stu as you go.

Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts


Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.

Fasten o .

Antennae - make 2
Worked from the top downwards. Stu Rnds 1-3 lightly, no need to stu rest.

Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts


Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 5-7: Dc around.

Fasten o .

Spots - make 8
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, sl st in beg dc to join. 12 sts

Fasten o .

Pupils - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in rst dc to join.. 6 sts

Fasten o .

© Pia Simpson 2021 5 mycrochetchums.com


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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together rst, checking from all angles to make
sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn
needle to stitch the pieces together.

Sew the Wings onto the back of the Body - attach both at the same end - this will be the "neck".

Insert the Head into the Head cap and stitch all the way round the outer edge of the Head Cap to
give a neat nish. Sew this onto the Body, over the top of where the Wings join onto it. The point of
the Head cap sits at the top of the face.

Sew the Legs in place on the underside of the Body sitting roughly in line with Rnd 7, with two Legs
positioned towards the front, two towards the Ladybug's bottom and the last two between the front
and back pairs.

Sew the Spots onto the Wings.

Sew the Antennae to the top of the Head, roughly 3 sts apart.

Sew the Eyes onto the face, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Head.

Embroidered Details

Using the photo above as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following details:

Single stitch highlight on each Pupil using CC3.


Nose over Rnd 1 of the Head using CC2.
Mouth below Nose using CC1.

All done!

© Pia Simpson 2021 6 mycrochetchums.com


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Terms of Use

I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an
individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.

If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the nished
item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.

Please be sure to use toy grade stu ng and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be
a danger to small children.

The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold,
transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create
the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!

About mycrochetchums

I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown
and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was
feeling guilty about!

I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I
wrangle with managing a website and social media.

Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any
feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.

You can also nd me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.

If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on)
please email me at: pia@mycrochetchums.com - I’ll do my best to help!

Happy Crocheting!

Pia x

© Pia Simpson 2021 7 mycrochetchums.com


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