Ibisco

IBISCO
EXPRESSION1 FIBER ARTS Expression Fiber Arts
 -Ibisco-

Ibisco is the Italian word for “hibiscus,” which is a ower that comes in many colors, each with its own symbolism and
meaning. Yellow hibiscus is often associated with happiness, sunshine, and good luck, while red hibiscus is a symbol
of love and passion. Pink hibiscus symbolizes friendship and all different kinds of love – not just romantic, while
purple hibiscus is associated with mystery, knowledge, and the upper class.

Similar in style to the Malvarosa and Mille ori sweaters, the Ibisco cardigan is knitted top down with front bands with
button closures that are added later and bishop style sleeves. With positive ease that allows for layering, the Ibisco
cardigan lays gracefully on your shoulders and down your body, and the length can be adjusted, if desired. Ibisco is
knitted with Dewy DK yarn and is so warm! Choose a color you love, and Ibisco will be a favorite for years to come!

CHANDI AGEE
CA N DY K E Y
Expression Fiber Arts
Designer
www.etcknittingstudio.net www.expression berarts.com

We appreciate you downloading our pattern! We pour tons of time and love into each one and hope you enjoy it.
Should you have any questions, please contact info@expressionfiberarts.com for assistance.

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 - DETAILS-
SIZES: Based on actual bust measurements.
XS: 32-34” (81-86 cm), S: 36-38” (91-97 cm), M: 40-42” (102-107 cm), L: 44-46”
(112-117 cm), XL: 48-50” (122-127 cm), 2XL: 52-54” (132-137 cm), 3XL:
56-58” (142-147 cm), and 4XL: 60-62” (152-157 cm)
Designed to be worn with 3” (7.5 cm) of positive ease. The sample is shown in size DIMENSIONS

Small and is modeled on a 34” (86 cm) bust.

Expression Fiber Arts Dewy DK

Shown in color: Shadow Cat Dahlia
Skeins needed: 5 (5, 5, 6) (6, 7, 7) 8; (Yardage per size is located on page 10.)
If that color isn’t available, any from this category will work. MATERIALS

US size 6 (4.0 mm) circular needles with 32” (81 cm) cable for the body of
sweater and 16” (41 cm) cable for neck and sleeves, or size(s) needed to
obtain gauge; US size 6 (4.0 mm) double pointed needles for cuffs NEEDLE

Tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers, straight pins, safety
pin, crochet hook, and odd number of buttons (i.e., 7, 9, 11)

The sample used 7 black 3/4” (19 mm) round Katrinkles Acrylic Buttons.
TOOLS

24 sts and 32 rows = 4” (10 cm) in Stockinette Stitch, unblocked

GAUGE

Intermediate to Advanced: This pattern is for those who feel comfortable with
knitting and have made a few projects, using various skills and techniques. Skills/
concepts include garment construction, buttonholes, German short rows, and
adding stitches throughout a garment. SKILL LEVEL

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 - ABBREVIATIONS-

Beg beginning

BO bind off

CO cast on

DS German Row double stitch or double knit stitch

K knit

Kfb knit front back; knit in front and back of next stitch (single increase)

K2tog knit 2 stitches together (single decrease)

P purl

Rem remaining

Rep repeat

RS right/front side of work

SM stitch marker

St(s) stitch(es)

WS wrong/back side of work

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 - PATTERN-
NOTES

• This cardigan is knitted back and forth. The front bands are added after the body is complete.
• The pattern has two short row sections for shaping the bust and shoulders. The German Short
Row method is recommended. Watch this video to learn how to work them.
• The sweater has bishop sleeves with cuffs. The Stockinette section on the sleeves is worked to the
bend of the wrist or your desired length before the ribbed cuff is added, which “puffs” the
sleeves. Try on the sleeves occasionally to get the correct length for your body.
• Try on the cardigan as you go, and modify as needed. You can add increase or decrease rows
between the sections for a better t.
• Check the table on page 10 for the stitch count at each increase.
• A kfb is used to increase the yoke; however, you can use a M1 instead, if you prefer.
• VERY IMPORTANT: If you wonder what row you are on, count the rows on the middle front of the
sweater. The back has extra rows for the short-row sections. Count the rows on the front of the
yoke all the way down to the BO.
• I suggest keeping a safety pin or removable stitch marker handy and moving it down the body in
the front as you reach every 10th row. Use this method to track your count on each sleeve, too.
• Click here to watch a video showcasing three related sweater patterns: Malvarosa, Mille ori, and
Ibisco.

PATTERN

CO 110 (116, 120, 126) (140, 146, 156) 166
sts.
Rows 1–4: K1, p1 across.
Row 5: For sizes XS, M, and XL, continue in the
established ribbing pattern. For sizes S, L, 2XL,
3XL, and 4XL, work k1, p1 until the last 2 sts,
then k2tog. Your stitch count should match the
Stitch Count Table on page 10.
Rows 6–10: Work in stockinette stitch beg with
a purl row.
Row 11: *K4, kfb* across. (See Stitch Count
Table).
Rows 12–16: Work in stockinette stitch beg
with a purl row.
Row 17: *K5, kfb* across. (See Stitch Count
Table).
Row 18: P across.
Row 19: This row adds a short row section to
help with the t. Secure a removable sm to the
middle of the row. (For example, 154 sts/2 = 77
sts. Place the sm between the 77th and 78th
sts).
K to sm, and then k50 (54, 56, 58) (61, 63, 65)
68 past the sm, turn (DS made). P to sm, and
then p50 (54, 56, 58) (61,63, 65) 68 past the
sm, turn (DS made). K to end of row. As you
reach the two “turn” sts, pick those up, and k
them also.
Leave the sm in place for the next short row
section found later in the pattern.
Rows 20–24: Work in stockinette stitch beg
with a purl row.
Row 25: *K6, kfb* across. (See Stitch Count
Table).

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 Rows 26–30: Work in stockinette stitch beg
with a purl row.
Row 31: *K7, kfb* across. (See Stitch Count
Table).
Rows 32–36: Work in stockinette stitch beg
with a purl row.
Row 37: *K8, kfb* across. (See Stitch Count
Table).
Rows 38–42: Work in stockinette stitch beg
with a purl row.
Row 43: This row adds a short row section to
help with the t. K to sm. K68 (71, 75, 77) (80,
83, 86) 89 past the sm, turn (DS made). P to the
sm, and then p68 (71, 75, 77) (80, 83, 86) 89
past the sm, turn (DS made). K to end of row.
As you reach the two “turn” sts, pick those up,
and k them also.
Row 44: P the row, removing the sm as you
come to it.
Row 45: *K9, kfb* across. (See Stitch Count
Table).
Rows 46–50: Work in stockinette stitch beg
with a purl row.
Row 51: *K10, kfb* across. (See Stitch Count
Table).
Rows 52–56: Work in stockinette stitch beg
with a purl row.
Row 57: *K11, kfb* across. (See Stitch Count
Table).
Rows 58–62: Work in stockinette stitch beg
with a purl row.
Rows 63: Sizes XS and S, go to Row 70.
For sizes M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, and 4XL,
*K12, kfb* across. (See Stitch Count Table).
Rows 64–68: Work in stockinette stitch beg
with a purl row.
Sizes M, L, and XL, go to Row 70.
Row 68:
Size 2XL: *K28, kfb* across, k rem sts.
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Size 3XL: *K30, kfb* across, k rem sts.
Size 4XL: *K32, kfb* across, k rem sts.
Remember to check the Stitch Count Table
after this increase.
Row 69: P across.
Row 70: This row is for splitting the sleeves,
uniting the front and back to form the body,
and adding new stitches to form the armholes.
Find your size below, and complete this row:
Size XS: K46, put 50 sts on a stitch holder for
the rst sleeve, CO 16 sts, k94, put 50 sts on
another stitch holder for the second sleeve, CO
16 sts, k46. The sleeves are 12” (30.5 cm) in
diameter, and the body is 36” (91.5 cm) in
diameter.
Size S: K48, put 52 sts on a stitch holder for the
rst sleeve, CO 20 sts, k99, put 52 sts on
another stitch holder for the second sleeve, CO
20 sts, k48. The sleeves are 13” (33 cm) in
diameter, and the body is 39” (99 cm) in
diameter.
Size M: K55, put 58 sts on a stitch holder for
the rst sleeve, CO 20 sts , k110, put 58 sts on
another stitch holder for the second sleeve, CO
20 sts, k55. The sleeves are 14” (36 cm) in
diameter, and the body is 43” (109 cm) in
diameter.
Size L: K58, put 59 sts on a stitch holder for the
rst sleeve, CO 25 sts , k116, put 59 sts on
another stitch holder for the second sleeve, CO
25 sts, k58. The sleeves are 15” (38 cm) in
diameter, and the body is 47” (119.5 cm) in
diameter.
Size XL: K63, put 69 sts on a stitch holder for
the rst sleeve, CO 25 sts, k128, put 69 sts on
another stitch holder for the second sleeve, CO
25 sts, k63. The sleeves are 16.5” (42 cm) in
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 diameter, and the body is 51” (139.5 cm) in
diameter.
Size 2XL: K69, put 74 sts on a stitch holder for
the rst sleeve, CO 28 sts, k134, put 74 sts on
another stitch holder for the second sleeve, CO
28 sts, k69. The sleeves are 18” (45.5 cm) in
diameter, and the body is 55” (139.5 cm) in
diameter.
Size 3XL: K73, put 78 sts on a stitch holder for
the rst sleeve, CO 30 sts, k146, put 78 sts on
another stitch holder for the second sleeve, CO
30 sts, k73. The sleeves are 19” (48.5 cm) in
diameter, and the body is 59” (150 cm) in
diameter.
Size 4XL: K78, put 82 sts on a stitch holder for
the rst sleeve, CO 32 sts, k156, put 82 sts on
another stitch holder for the second sleeve, CO
32 sts, k78. The sleeves are 20” (51 cm) in
diameter, and the body is 63” (160 cm) in
diameter.
The yoke is now complete, and you are ready
to knit the body and the arms.
BODY
Work in stockinette stitch beginning with a purl
row. Be sure and watch your row count by
counting the rows on the front of the sweater.
The front rows are the accurate number from
the stitch count in the table. See Notes for tips
on how to count your rows.
Once you have knit to 1” (2.5 cm) short of your
desired length, begin the k1, p1 ribbing on the
RS rows. Knit the WS rows.
Follow this pattern for 6 rows, and then BO. As
you BO, knit the knit stitches, and purl the purl
stitches.
[Be sure to leave a 6” (15 cm) tail when you cut
the yarn, and pull this tail through the last loop
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of BO. Clean up the gap from the tail loop and
your rst BO stitch by following these steps:
1. Thread the tail through a tapestry needle.
2. Insert the needle from the front to the back
of the rst BO stitch (the left stitch), and pull
the needle through.
3. Then insert the needle from the front to the
back on the part of the stitch remaining
behind where the tail comes through the
loop. Pull the needle through.
4. Pull tight enough until you get the “non-
stop” stitch run that nishes off the body of
the sweater. Watch this video for a
demonstration.]
SLEEVES
Now it is time to knit the sleeves one at a time.
1. Put the stitches from one of your stitch
holders onto your short circular needle or
double pointed needle. Circular needles
are recommended.
2. When you come to the space between the
stitches from the stitch holder and the
stitches you cast on for the body of the
sweater, you do not want a gap. Watch the
linked video above to see how to close that
gap.
Once you close the rst gap, pick up all of the
stitches you cast on under the sleeve as part of
the body. Then close the second gap, and
place a marker. You now have all of the sleeve
stitches on your needles. You should have:
Size XS: 72 sts
Size S: 78 sts
Size M: 84 sts
Size L: 90 sts
Size XL: 100 sts
Size 2XL: 108 sts
Size 3XL: 114 sts
Size 4XL: 120 sts
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Knit the sleeves in the round until you reach If this is the right band, buttonholes need to be
your wrist bone. See the Notes for more added. Knit the left band rst to help with
information about the sleeve length. button placement.

RIBBING Lay your left band down on a at surface, and

Round 1: Sizes XS, M, XL, 2XL, 4XL: K2tog place your buttons where you would like them
around. to be positioned. Move each button, and mark
the button’s location with a straight pin. Pin
For sizes S, L, and 3XL: K2tog around until the directly on top of a stitch, not between stitches.
last 3 sts, k3. (You may wish to change to
double pointed needles at this point.). Count the number of stitches between each
Round 2: K around. pin and how many stitches are from the top
edge to the top button and the bottom edge
At this point, the ribbing circumference to the bottom button. Write those numbers
measures: down. Adjust your numbers so that you BO 3
Size XS: 6” (15 cm) stitches for each buttonhole.
Size S: 6.5” (16.5 cm)
Size M: 7” (18 cm) Rows 1–4: Knit
Size L: 7.5” (19 cm) Row 5: Using the stitch count you calculated,
Size XL: 8.5” (21.5 cm) knit and BO for the buttonhole stitches, and
Size 2XL: 9” (23 cm) complete the row.
Size 3XL: 9.5” (24 cm) Row 6: Rep Row 5, but CO 3 sts at each of the
Size 4XL: 10” (25.5 cm) BO from the previous row. You should have the
Remember, the ribbing is stretchy to t your same number of stitches that you started with.
wrist. Rows 7–10: Knit across.

Rounds 3–18: *K1, p1* rep around. BO using your preferred BO method.

Close the edge of the BO, as you did for the

BO on the body. The instructions to do so are
included within the [ ] brackets above.

Front Bands
With the RS of the sweater facing you, use the
needle you used to knit the body of the
sweater and a crochet hook to pick up all
stitches along the edge of the rst band to
your right. Then repeat across the edge of the
body: *pick up 3 sts and skip a st*. Then pick
up all stitches on the edge of the remaining
band. The number of stitches picked up will
vary depending on cardigan length.

If this is the left band when you are wearing it,

k 10 rows, and BO on the RS.
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 FINISHING
Clean up all your ends with a tapestry needle
or crochet hook. Refer to the [ ] section above,
and close up the neckline, body ribbing, and
sleeve ribbing using this method.
Now, let’s reinforce the buttonholes and make
them stronger. The photo on the left is the
buttonhole once your knitting is complete.
Once reinforced, your buttonholes will look like
the one shown in the photo on the right.
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In the left photo, the buttonhole has no
strength or de nition and is pretty imsy. The
photo on the right has been reinforced and will
hold up to being buttoned and unbuttoned.
Thread your tapestry needle with the same
yarn used for your cardigan. Starting at the
back of the buttonhole, bring your needle
through, leaving a 3” (7.5 cm) tail in the back at
one end of the hole. Pull the thread up and
down twice to reinforce the top or bottom
edge of the buttonhole, as represented by the
two black bars at either end of the graphic.
Whip stitch one side of the buttonhole edge,
as represented by the curved arrows. The
arrows show the direction of your whipped
stitches. Whip stitch over one knitted edge
stitch each time.
Using the same technique, whip stitch along
the other end and the other side. Secure both
ends behind the band by tying them together,
and then clean up the tails.
Finally, wet block the sweater. Sew on the
buttons using the same yarn that was used for
the cardigan, and make a knot behind to
attach. Clean up any tails, and enjoy wearing
your new cardigan!
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 -CONNECT-
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If you like this pattern, you might enjoy:

Malvarosa Ella Mille ori

This pattern may be printed and used for personal, non-commercial use only and may not be reproduced, sold, or distributed. All images, text, and illustration
©Expression Fiber Arts 2024. Finished items made using this pattern may be sold so long as pattern attribution is ascribed to Expression Fiber Arts.
For questions about this policy, please contact us at contact@expression berarts.com.

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